Mererid ac Afon Rhein Yr Afon


Mererid ac Afon Rhein

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-The Rhine.

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-The vast river

-which feeds the heart...

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-..of western Europe.

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-Over 3,000 metres above sea level...

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-..this is the Rheinwaldhorn,

-the river's frozen source.

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-There's change afoot.

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-The source is melting.

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-Over the years,

-the river's journey from the Alps...

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-..to its estuary in Holland...

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-..has also changed.

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-This change has mirrored

-the lives of the people...

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-..who live along its banks.

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-Over many centuries, the river has

-grown from an important pathway...

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-..to a crucial highway that sustains

-and drives Europe's economy.

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-An important link on the one hand,

-it's also a boundary...

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-..between land and people.

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-It has seen many cultures

-and heard countless languages.

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-It has also witnessed

-fierce battles...

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-..and mourned death.

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-Today, peace dominates the landscape

-- on the surface at least.

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-Beneath the surface

-lies another story.

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-The Rhine is facing a new threat.

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-It's a threat

-driven by climatic changes...

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-..not political ambition.

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-With the river under threat,

-the communities face the same fate.

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-Can the people

-who share the river...

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-..unite, to preserve a way of life.

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-The Netherlands,

-Germany, Switzerland, France...

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-..Austria and Liechtenstein.

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-The Rhine flows

-through these six countries.

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-Germany lays claim

-to the majority of the river.

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-The Rhine has played

-an important part...

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-..in the process of creating

-and defining the German nation.

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-I'm about to follow the river but

-not from the source to the estuary.

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-I'll be climbing from the estuary...

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-..passing castles,

-factories and towns...

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-..and some stunningly

-beautiful landscapes.

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-The journey is packed

-with history and folklore.

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-Like the best fairy tales...

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-..the history is a combination

-of good and evil.

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-From the racism of the Nazis...

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-..this river has witnessed

-some truly sinister acts.

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-Those days are now but a memory...

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-..but the river

-has become a new battlefield.

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-Today's battle is against the clock.

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-It's a battle to save

-the river itself.

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-There are two sources to the Rhine,

-up in the Swiss Alps.

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-From the Hinterrhein glacier...

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-..it flows into the Vorderrhein.

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-Then it flows between the Alsace

-vineyards and the Black Forest...

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-..through a dramatic ravine and

-the industrial heart of Germany...

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-..before reaching the sea

-in Europe's largest port.

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-Our journey begins in Rotterdam.

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-Each year, over 300m tonnes of goods

-are transported through the port.

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-This is where the Rhine

-enters the North Sea...

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-..and these giant ships head

-for the four corners of the earth.

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-Large and even larger

-is the norm in this place.

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-It's hard to imagine a coracle

-floating among these huge ships...

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-..the tankers and cargo ships which

-drag their goods around Europe.

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-The Rhine is a huge motorway which

-is crucial to the European economy.

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-All the transport

-that uses the river...

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-..and the work undertaken to improve

-conditions create many problems.

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-The river is a canal these days.

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-The iron giants of the estuary

-are a threatening sight.

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-So many are controlled

-by tiny computers.

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-The docker's muscle power has been

-replaced by the click of a mouse.

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-However, when things go wrong,

-a computer is of no use.

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-People's courage is needed

-to save others.

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-ALARM

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-A busy port like Rotterdam

-is an extremely dangerous place.

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-All the oil and chemicals here

-can ignite easily.

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-When that happens,

-the response is immediate.

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-Delays could cost

-thousands of lives.

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-As an instructor and fireman, Alex

-Trueman knows better than most...

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-..what can go wrong.

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-You can take comfort in the fact

-that so much is already in place...

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-..and many things can be prevented.

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-But yes, if you consider

-all that could happen...

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-..a lot can go wrong.

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-In addition

-to extinguishing fires...

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-..Alex trains others to do the work.

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-Every company

-that works in the port...

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-..must know

-how to respond in an emergency.

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-It didn't take me long to realize

-that this isn't child's play.

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-Chemicals stored here could poison

-the air as well as the water.

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-As an instructor,

-Alex knows what's at stake.

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-I think many people can see

-what's happening around them.

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-They don't stop to consider

-the full implications.

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-They don't really know

-what could go wrong.

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-For me, it's a way of life.

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-It's in my blood.

-It pulls me back all the time.

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-My father works for the

-fire service, as does my brother.

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-Yes indeed, it's in my blood.

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-The people of Rotterdam

-may not realize the dangers...

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-..that lurk in the harbour.

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-Or they might choose

-not to consider it.

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-Without the industry

-that's generated by the river...

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-..there would be no work.

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-Here, in Rotterdam...

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-..the river has always

-driven the economy.

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-It has also controlled the mindset

-and culture of the population.

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-For thousands of years...

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-..the banks of the Rhine

-have witnessed troubled times...

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-..where man learned to live

-at the mercy of the water goddess.

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-Sometimes, she would give.

-Other times, she would take away.

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-Fishermen

-would talk of mystical women...

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-..sprites and strange creatures...

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-..as they tried to cope with

-the dangerous nature of the waters.

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-Today, the fishermen's stories

-are part of the river's folklore.

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-Man has tamed the dangerous waters

-that inspired the stories...

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-..to ensure that the transport

-industry and the economy flourished.

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-By intervening for the benefit

-of one industry...

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-..another industry was threatened.

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-Over the past few years, earning

-a living as a family of fishermen...

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-..has been a challenge.

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-One who faces that challenge

-is Wilkin Den Boer.

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-Like his father

-and grandfather before him...

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-..he specializes in eel fishing.

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-The eels come from the Sargasso Sea,

-near Cuba.

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-They reach this estuary

-and swim up stream...

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-..until they're ready to lay eggs.

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-Then,

-they swim back towards the ocean.

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-Twenty years ago, a catch this size

-would have been impossible.

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-There was so much industrial waste

-in the water.

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-Pollution affected fish numbers.

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-In the 1950s and 1960s...

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-..we would catch very few fish.

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-1986 was a very difficult year.

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-A chemical factory exploded

-further up the river...

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-..spewing its poison into the water.

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-The river turned red

-and the fish were all killed.

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-This disaster almost destroyed

-Wilkin's way of life.

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-Even nowadays,

-only six fishermen work here.

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-Since then, there has been a huge

-effort to improve the water quality.

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-Over the past few years...

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-..there's been an increase

-in the numbers of salmon.

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-They'd all but disappeared

-due to pollution.

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-More recently,

-we've caught hundreds every year.

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-As the fish return to the Rhine...

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-..Wilkin Den Boer hopes his sons

-will join the business...

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-..and continue the family tradition.

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-The journey continues for me.

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-My journey will take me to

-the battlefield and into Germany.

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-.

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-888

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-Over the flat fields of Holland...

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-..my journey along the Rhine

-continues towards Germany.

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-About 90 miles from Rotterdam

-is the town of Arnhem.

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-In Arnhem, there's

-a bridge over the Rhine...

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-..which witnessed many battles

-during World War II.

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-Since Roman times, the Rhine has

-been a border between countries.

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-It's a border to be crossed.

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-It's seen bows and arrows

-and spears.

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-It's also heard the footsteps

-of soldiers and exploding bombs.

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-As Hitler's armies pushed

-back and forth along the river...

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-..people who lived along the Rhine

-came face to face with war.

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-The Germans said

-we had to leave Arnhem.

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-We spent nine months in Apeldoorn,

-about 16 miles north of Arnhem.

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-Tanno Pieterse and his family

-had to move...

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-..because the Allies' plan

-to end WWII had failed.

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-In September 1944,

-the Germans were retreating.

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-The war was almost over.

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-Montgomery had a plan

-to end hostilities.

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-It was an ambitious plan,

-a gamble in many ways.

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-The Allies would land

-behind enemy lines...

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-..and claim a number of bridges.

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-One of those was the bridge

-in Arnhem.

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-Because of flaws in the plan

-and a lack of resources...

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-..the soldiers were forced to land

-over a period of three days.

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-The element of surprise was lost.

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-Like lambs to the slaughter,

-they approached the Rhine.

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-The Germans were waiting for them.

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-Hundreds of soldiers died.

-Others sheltered in local houses.

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-Soon, houses were set alight.

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-I went to the town with a friend...

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-..to search for bread for the people

-whose houses had been burnt down.

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-The Red Cross Commandant

-in Arnhem...

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-..told us that what we were doing

-was dangerous.

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-If the SS thought we were searching

-for food, they would shoot us.

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-They had already shot a doctor and

-a nurse for helping a paratrooper.

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-After ten days,

-the Allies surrendered.

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-Despite all the bloodshed,

-the war continued for many months.

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-Months later,

-when the war was over...

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-..Tanno and his family

-returned home...

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-..to a familiar way of life.

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-For others, their home and way of

-life isn't defined by one location.

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-The river itself is their home

-and not the land on either side.

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-For centuries, these giant boats

-have moved in a procession...

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-..up and down the Rhine.

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-They are driven by the people

-who own them and their families.

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-Both Herr Veldman and his wife had

-parents who lived on canal boats.

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-They've been raised on the river.

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-They have a house in Holland...

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-..but this boat is their home.

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-It's very comfortable.

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-Bedrooms for the children and

-the teddies and all the mod cons.

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-This is the kitchen. This is

-where we eat our lunch and supper.

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-This is the oven and the electrical

-equipment such as the microwave.

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-That's the freezer.

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-This is the dining room and this is

-where we eat when we have visitors.

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-The living room and my son, Stefan.

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-This is where we relax.

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-This is the television

-and this is my eldest son's bedroom.

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-As we cross the border into Germany,

-it's easy to understand...

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-..how the Rhine became central

-to the country's identity.

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-This is the confluence of two rivers

-- the Rhine and the Ruhr.

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-This is the door to the Rheinland

-or the Rhine district.

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-This area has been a powerhouse

-for Germany's economy for years.

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-The foundation of the local industry

-is coal and steel.

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-This area was largely responsible

-for Germany's economic recovery...

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-..after World War II.

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-The Wirtschaftswunder.

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-Some coal is still transported

-along the river...

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-..but heavy industry here

-is on the wane.

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-From the Rhondda to the Rhineland...

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-..workers sympathize

-with people here.

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-Since the 18th century,

-industry has defined the Rhineland.

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-Even though the work was hard...

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-..it gave people

-a sense of pride and identity.

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-Scuba diving lessons could be held

-in the gasometer, apparently.

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-They claim it's clean enough.

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-In the old cooling tanks,

-water lilies grow.

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-A memory, a memorial,

-a monument of the past.

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-This is the chief industry today.

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-They're not digging or producing.

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-They're transporting loads

-from one place to the next.

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-There's hardly any connection

-between the cargo and the people.

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-Who knows what these metal boxes

-contain?

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-Who cares as long

-as they reach their destination...

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-..and that someone pays the bill?

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-For the people who live

-on the river...

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-..life has changed very little

-for centuries.

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-As well as carrying a load,

-whatever that may be...

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-..the boat people

-take their nationality with them.

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-It's very easy for these people

-to travel from country to country.

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-From here to Alsace,

-the river is a border.

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-For years,

-the Germans and the French...

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-..fought over the river, both trying

-to lay claim to the furthest bank.

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-As I enter this town,

-I can feel Germany's history...

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-..as a giant shadow

-on everyone and everything...

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-..in the shape of this statue

-at the German end.

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-The Deutsches Eck.

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-As recently as 1929,

-Koblenz was called Confluentes...

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-..when it belonged to France.

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-This is the confluence of the

-German Rhine and the French Moselle.

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-The dream of a united Germany

-was first realized...

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-..when Napoleon III left

-following his defeat by Wilhelm I.

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-Wilhelm was the first

-German Emperor.

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-Wilhelm, along with his

-Prime Minister, Otto Bismarck...

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-..were responsible for laying the

-foundations of the German identity.

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-Deutsches Eck was an important

-symbol of German strength and unity.

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-But there were changes afoot.

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-Schein and sein.

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-Two German words,

-separated by only one letter.

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-The words mean

-appearance and reality.

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-There is often a difference

-between both of these.

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-This isn't the original monument.

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-That was destroyed during WWII.

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-Nor is this place a symbol

-of the ambitious dream...

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-..to create a German Empire.

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-The people insist that those

-are ideas of a bygone age.

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-There has been fierce debate

-about the idea...

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-..of rebuilding a memorial

-to Wilhelm at all.

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-This new memorial was funded

-by a local couple.

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-It was built in 1993...

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-..as a tourist attraction...

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-..rather than a symbol

-of cultural or political identity.

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-Today, the Rhine flows

-through the heart of a new Europe.

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-An Europe of countries

-rather than an Empire.

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-People and goods can now travel

-easily from country to country.

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-If the Rhine could speak, it would

-have tales of different people...

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-..who have lived along the river

-at different times...

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-..each one having made

-a contribution.

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-Our Celtic forefathers stopped here

-on their way to Wales.

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-They named the river Rhenus -

-the fierce river.

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-Today, the river appears calmer.

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-Beneath the surface, more problems

-are starting to emerge.

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-The variety of creatures

-that live in the water...

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-..are threatened

-by changes to their habitat.

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-As more ships travel

-along European waterways...

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-..they carry

-unauthorized and dangerous loads.

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-These intruders

-are not welcomed here.

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-This is the killer shrimp.

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-Its natural habitat

-is the Black Sea.

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-In the 1980s,

-it travelled up the Danube...

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-..towards Germany.

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-We believe this occurred

-because of the new link...

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-..between countries in the east

-and countries in the west.

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-The fall of the Iron Curtain

-and growth in the shipping industry.

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-Soon, the killer shrimps

-appeared in the Rhine.

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-They spread to all parts of

-northern Europe in no time at all.

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-Dr Stefan Nehring is an expert

-and consultant in biology.

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-He regularly checks

-the quality of the river...

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-..and the creatures that live in it.

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-Here.

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-You can see this shrimp.

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-It's a destructive prey.

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-It reached here from the Black Sea.

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-It was first seen here

-12 years ago.

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-Nowadays, it's the one

-we see most regularly here.

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-It loves eating the other shrimps.

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-It's destroyed

-a number of native species...

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-..and within a few years,

-it's overrun all the German rivers.

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-Exotic creatures

-never become native.

0:24:380:24:41

-They are exotic creatures forever.

0:24:410:24:44

-They're a threat

-to local plants and creatures.

0:24:440:24:47

-They affect them.

0:24:470:24:49

-They either eat them or they

-assimilate and become very similar.

0:24:490:24:53

-That's when we start talking

-about McDonaldizing nature.

0:24:540:24:58

-Everything is the same.

0:24:580:25:00

-These changes affect the food chain.

0:25:040:25:07

-The killer shrimps eat the

-creatures that are eaten by birds.

0:25:070:25:12

-Their lives are changed forever...

0:25:120:25:16

-..and their food source disappears.

0:25:160:25:19

-Where will they go next?

0:25:190:25:20

-.

0:25:240:25:25

-888

0:25:270:25:27

-888

-

-888

0:25:270:25:29

-South of Koblenz,

-we reach the Rhine gorge...

0:25:370:25:42

-..surrounded by vineyards

-and beautiful landscapes.

0:25:430:25:47

-These are the golden miles

-of tourists and pleasure boats.

0:25:470:25:51

-This is the romance of the Rhine.

0:25:510:25:54

-However, under the calm,

-deceptive surface...

0:25:540:25:58

-..the devil's depths can be found.

0:25:580:26:01

-Folklore is full of passion,

-love and tragedy.

0:26:020:26:07

-This is the basis of the

-famous legend of the Lorelei Rock.

0:26:080:26:12

-According to the tale...

0:26:140:26:16

-..a beautiful young girl

-throws herself on to the rocks...

0:26:160:26:20

-..when she hears

-of her lover's infidelity.

0:26:200:26:24

-From then on,

-she blinds sailors with her beauty.

0:26:240:26:28

-They lose sight of their task...

0:26:290:26:31

-..of steering carefully along

-a dangerous stretch of water...

0:26:310:26:35

-..and crash onto the rocks.

0:26:350:26:38

-The maiden of the Lorelei...

0:26:430:26:45

-..is closely associated

-with other fabled creatures...

0:26:450:26:49

-..in the folklore

-of many other countries.

0:26:490:26:52

-For centuries, tales have

-been used to explain tragedies...

0:26:520:26:57

-..that happen

-due to natural phenomena.

0:26:570:27:00

-This stretch of water was

-particularly dangerous for sailors.

0:27:020:27:07

-Rocks lurked beneath the surface...

0:27:070:27:10

-..and the strong currents

-could drag ships to deeper waters.

0:27:100:27:14

-The Lorelei isn't the only tale

-originating from this river.

0:27:140:27:18

-The river's maidens

-inspired Wagner...

0:27:230:27:25

-..as he composed The Ring Cycle...

0:27:260:27:28

-..and the story of Das Rheingold.

0:27:280:27:31

-The beautiful maidens

-of the Rhine...

0:27:320:27:35

-..soon became role models

-for young German women.

0:27:350:27:38

-Hitler knew how to present a simple

-message in an influential way.

0:27:390:27:44

-It was no coincidence

-that the girls in Nazi posters...

0:27:440:27:48

-..were very similar

-to the fabled maidens of the Rhine.

0:27:480:27:52

-However,

-not all Germans were tall and fit.

0:28:020:28:06

-Nor were they white with fair hair.

0:28:060:28:09

-This led to an event

-that shamed the German nation.

0:28:090:28:14

-The Persecution of the Jews.

0:28:140:28:16

-This is the oldest Jewish cemetery

-in Germany.

0:28:220:28:25

-All these graves have existed

-since before the Second World War...

0:28:260:28:31

-..a time when their communities

-were large and successful.

0:28:310:28:35

-This is the Heiliger Sand Cemetery

-in Worms.

0:28:360:28:39

-Some Jews live in the town today...

0:28:450:28:48

-..but they have moved here

-from Russia.

0:28:480:28:51

-The Jews

-who originally lived here...

0:28:510:28:54

-..were persecuted

-during the Nazi years.

0:28:540:28:57

-They were gathered together

-and executed.

0:28:570:29:00

-On 8th November, 1938...

0:29:040:29:08

-..the Nazis viciously attacked

-German Jews.

0:29:080:29:12

-Within a few hours, thousands of

-synagogues, businesses and homes...

0:29:150:29:21

-..had been damaged

-or completely destroyed.

0:29:220:29:25

-The word Kristallnacht

-has a lovely ring to it...

0:29:330:29:36

-..but its meaning

-is anything but enchanting.

0:29:360:29:38

-It means

-"night of the broken glass".

0:29:390:29:42

-It was a night when the windows

-of all Jewish homes were smashed.

0:29:420:29:46

-Jews were cast out of their houses

-onto a carpet of glass.

0:29:470:29:51

-It is also a symbolic name...

0:29:510:29:53

-..which represents the destruction

-of Germany's Jewish community.

0:29:530:29:58

-Following the fall

-of the Soviet Union...

0:30:000:30:03

-..the German Government

-invited Russian Jews to live here...

0:30:030:30:08

-..to try and re-establish

-the Jewish community.

0:30:080:30:12

-Even today, they still live

-in fear of persecution.

0:30:120:30:17

-Hasan Ozdemir is originally

-from Turkey.

0:30:370:30:40

-He now writes poetry

-in the German language.

0:30:400:30:43

-He moved here when he was 16 years

-old and has lived here ever since.

0:30:430:30:50

-He's one of the 1.7 million people

-who've moved from Turkey to Germany.

0:30:500:30:54

-Hasan lives in Ludwigshafen...

0:30:540:30:57

-..a few miles upstream from Worms.

0:30:580:31:00

-This has been a vibrant new town

-since the 19th century.

0:31:000:31:06

-To promote economic growth,

-Germany, or West Germany...

0:31:090:31:14

-..attracted workers

-from other countries in 1950.

0:31:140:31:19

-These workers

-were originally guests.

0:31:200:31:23

-Guest workers - gastarbeiter.

0:31:230:31:28

-The term gastarbeiter - guest

-workers - is something I detest.

0:31:310:31:37

-We shouldn't describe incomers

-this way any more.

0:31:370:31:41

-They are now part of this community.

0:31:450:31:48

-A new generation is growing here.

0:31:480:31:51

-They have a responsibility

-for this country.

0:31:510:31:55

-The traditional way of life

-is still important to many Turks.

0:31:580:32:02

-They tend to live apart.

0:32:020:32:04

-There's a new mosque

-in Ludwigshafen.

0:32:150:32:19

-After watching the congregation

-praying earnestly...

0:32:190:32:23

-..it was hard to imagine

-that I was in western Europe...

0:32:230:32:27

-..so close to Worms and the hotbed

-of Lutheran Protestant revolution.

0:32:270:32:32

-Even though the wives

-stayed behind here too...

0:32:330:32:36

-..it was a very eastern

-and alien occasion.

0:32:360:32:39

-In one of his poems...

0:32:410:32:42

-..Hasan writes

-that the river's flow is in him.

0:32:430:32:46

-He's disappointed

-that not everyone has moved on.

0:32:460:32:51

-They stick closely together.

-That does hold them back.

0:32:540:32:58

-The Rhine is a symbol of movement.

0:32:590:33:03

-Only stagnant water rots and stinks.

0:33:030:33:06

-Water that flows doesn't stink.

0:33:060:33:08

-That's what I say.

-It's an important image for me.

0:33:090:33:12

-Sometimes,

-a community can become rotten...

0:33:130:33:15

-..be that a Turkish community

-or German community.

0:33:150:33:19

-We have to move on -

-constantly onwards to the future.

0:33:190:33:23

-As a Welsh poet once said, "This is

-the river but this isn't the water."

0:33:280:33:33

-It's so true.

0:33:330:33:34

-Further upstream, a whole nation had

-to change its identity many times...

0:33:410:33:46

-..as France and Germany fought

-over their right to the Rhine.

0:33:460:33:51

-The river now flows

-past the Black Forest to the east...

0:33:510:33:55

-..and Alsace-Lorraine in the west.

0:33:550:33:58

-Between 1870 and 1919, this area,

-to a large extent...

0:34:040:34:08

-..was in German hands.

0:34:090:34:11

-Since WWI, it's been part of France.

0:34:110:34:14

-The French have made huge efforts

-to make it more French.

0:34:150:34:19

-People such as Jean Hugel

-have been caught in the middle.

0:34:190:34:24

-My grandfather was born

-a Frenchman in 1869.

0:34:330:34:37

-He became a Prussian in 1871.

0:34:370:34:39

-In 1918,

-he became a Frenchman again.

0:34:390:34:42

-The Nazis controlled Alsace

-with a fist of steel during the war.

0:34:420:34:48

-We were turned into Hitlers.

0:34:480:34:51

-Not on the inside -

-only on the outside.

0:34:510:34:54

-My grandfather died a Frenchman

-in 1950.

0:34:540:34:58

-Jean Hugel's family have kept

-vineyards in Riquewihr, Alsace...

0:35:050:35:09

-..for almost 400 years.

0:35:090:35:12

-Evidence of the past

-can be seen everywhere.

0:35:140:35:18

-Local place names

-are a mixture of German and French.

0:35:180:35:22

-In 1920, French was the only

-language of primary schools.

0:35:270:35:32

-Every other language was prohibited.

0:35:320:35:35

-If you were caught speaking

-a word or two of German...

0:35:350:35:39

-..you would be severely punished -

-even on the schoolyard.

0:35:400:35:44

-A familiar story?

0:35:440:35:46

-At school in the 1930s,

-I remember it clearly...

0:35:500:35:53

-..a long time ago...

0:35:530:35:55

-..the situation in Wales

-and Brittany was very similar.

0:35:550:36:00

-Now, it's very different.

0:36:000:36:02

-Primary schools are bilingual...

0:36:020:36:04

-..and there's no

-language discrimination any more.

0:36:040:36:08

-Like the language...

0:36:100:36:12

-..Jean Hugel's business

-has overcome all obstacles...

0:36:120:36:16

-..over the past 400 years.

0:36:160:36:18

-His business relies on the river.

0:36:190:36:21

-The success of communities

-along the Rhine...

0:36:210:36:24

-..and the future of the river itself

-flow hand in hand.

0:36:240:36:28

-888

0:36:320:36:32

-888

-

-888

0:36:320:36:34

-The Rhine and its riverbanks

-overflow with history, folklore...

0:36:420:36:46

-..and people

-who speak different languages...

0:36:460:36:49

-..who live side by side

-with each other's cultures.

0:36:490:36:52

-Like the rest of us,

-they rely on the river...

0:36:520:36:57

-..to transport goods

-in and out of Europe.

0:36:570:37:01

-Leaving Germany and France behind...

0:37:020:37:05

-..my journey

-to the river's source...

0:37:050:37:07

-..takes me to the border

-with Switzerland...

0:37:080:37:11

-..a country which is landlocked

-on all sides.

0:37:110:37:14

-The Rhine is crucial

-for the country's economic success.

0:37:140:37:18

-We import many goods

-from Switzerland...

0:37:190:37:22

-..including medicines and chocolate.

0:37:220:37:26

-Basel is a beautiful,

-sophisticated town.

0:37:260:37:30

-Residents enjoy

-a comfortable lifestyle...

0:37:300:37:33

-..thanks to the wealth

-of its industries.

0:37:330:37:36

-Special chemicals

-for the pharmaceutical world...

0:37:380:37:42

-..is the town's main source

-of income.

0:37:420:37:45

-Goods such as araldite, DDT and LSD.

0:37:450:37:49

-Useful but deadly goods.

0:37:490:37:52

-In the 1980s...

0:37:520:37:54

-..poisonous sewage leaked

-into the Rhine until it bled.

0:37:540:37:59

-The water turned red.

0:37:590:38:01

-Frau Irene Wigger

-remembers the night clearly.

0:38:030:38:06

-I remember the incident.

0:38:100:38:13

-It happened in the middle of

-the night when we heard the siren.

0:38:130:38:17

-We were warned to close the windows.

0:38:170:38:19

-There was a strange smell outside...

0:38:190:38:22

-..a smell of rotten eggs.

0:38:220:38:24

-This was the beginning of a period

-of pollution which lasted for years.

0:38:240:38:29

-The water and air quality

-gradually improved.

0:38:290:38:32

-Over half a million fish

-were killed.

0:38:360:38:38

-Some species disappeared for ever.

0:38:380:38:40

-The incident is still a sensitive

-matter for the people of Basel.

0:38:410:38:46

-Scientists keep a constant check

-on the water quality of the Rhine.

0:38:460:38:51

-This is the work carried out here.

0:38:520:38:54

-Water is tested for its purity.

0:38:570:38:59

-Being able to claim that

-it's fit to drink when boiled...

0:39:000:39:03

-..despite containing the sewage

-of thousands of people...

0:39:040:39:08

-..is a remarkable success.

0:39:080:39:10

-According to the authorities,

-the river is clean once more.

0:39:100:39:15

-Vigilance remains the key.

0:39:190:39:21

-Some people have created projects...

0:39:210:39:24

-..which contribute

-to keeping the environment pure...

0:39:240:39:28

-..and slowing global warming.

0:39:280:39:30

-The dream

-of the 2000 Watt Society...

0:39:300:39:33

-..is to reduce

-the amount of energy used.

0:39:330:39:36

-They're trying to turn

-the clock back to the 1960s...

0:39:370:39:40

-..when we were using

-half the power we're using today.

0:39:400:39:45

-The idea came

-from five local people.

0:39:470:39:50

-We love the old factories.

0:39:510:39:53

-We offered to buy the factories

-and discussed with the owners...

0:39:540:39:58

-..how we could transform

-the buildings for the area's needs.

0:39:580:40:02

-This was a machinery factory...

0:40:090:40:12

-..which was owned

-by a world-renowned company.

0:40:120:40:15

-They moved when it became clear

-they couldn't expand.

0:40:150:40:19

-We wanted to re-use the buildings

-to service local needs.

0:40:190:40:24

-The buildings now house

-various societies and businesses.

0:40:290:40:33

-Every tenant has promised to use

-as little energy as possible.

0:40:340:40:38

-Well, except for that boy.

0:40:390:40:41

-For years...

0:40:500:40:52

-..people have harnessed the Rhine

-to create electricity.

0:40:520:40:57

-Here, in Rheinwaldhorn,

-I can feel the power of the river...

0:40:570:41:01

-..as the largest waterfalls in

-Europe overflow over giant rocks.

0:41:020:41:06

-These are the Rhine waterfalls.

0:41:060:41:08

-The beauty and power of the Rhine

-and its wild water...

0:41:090:41:12

-..make me stand silently in awe.

0:41:130:41:17

-This is where the rock splits

-the Rhine...

0:41:260:41:29

-..with the young river

-in that direction...

0:41:290:41:32

-..and the mature river below us.

0:41:320:41:35

-As a poet once stated, this is

-where God strikes his lightning.

0:41:350:41:39

-The water falls from a height

-of 23 metres.

0:41:440:41:48

-The amount of water which

-flows every second varies greatly...

0:41:480:41:54

-..from 250-600 cubic metres.

0:41:540:41:57

-This great variation...

0:41:570:41:59

-..is caused by the effect of the sun

-on the glacier...

0:42:000:42:04

-..at the summit of the Alps.

0:42:040:42:06

-When the sun melts the ice

-in summer, the flow is greater.

0:42:060:42:11

-These days, the ice melts quickly

-throughout the year.

0:42:120:42:16

-How much stronger will

-the water flow be in the future?

0:42:160:42:21

-And what will happen

-when the ice melts completely?

0:42:220:42:25

-The last part of my journey

-takes me...

0:42:320:42:34

-..towards some of Europe's

-most dramatic landscapes.

0:42:340:42:38

-Here, I'm staggered

-by the beauty of the river.

0:42:390:42:42

-I travel through the Ruinaulta,

-this huge gorge...

0:42:420:42:47

-..which leads to the source

-of the Rhine - the Vorderrhein...

0:42:470:42:51

-..and a small lake

-high up in the Alps.

0:42:510:42:54

-Our story leads us

-to the other source.

0:43:090:43:13

-It's a dangerous

-and threatening story.

0:43:130:43:16

-The starting point of the

-Hinterrhein is the Rheinwaldhorn...

0:43:170:43:21

-..or to give it its local name -

-Paradise.

0:43:210:43:26

-This is where I appreciate the true

-challenge that faces the river...

0:43:270:43:32

-..and the people

-who live along its banks.

0:43:320:43:35

-One of the oldest tales

-of the Rhine is about an old man...

0:43:460:43:50

-..who lived in the shadow

-of the glacier.

0:43:500:43:53

-He owned a small patch of grassland

-high up in the Alps.

0:43:530:43:56

-The small field was called Paradise.

0:43:570:44:00

-A greedy neighbour called by

-and stole the land.

0:44:000:44:05

-That night, Mother Snow sought

-revenge on behalf of the old man...

0:44:050:44:10

-..and cast a spell

-over the grassland.

0:44:100:44:13

-In the morning, it was covered

-by a think layer of ice.

0:44:140:44:17

-Today, Paradise is under threat

-once more.

0:44:180:44:22

-Other greedy people

-have still not learnt their lesson.

0:44:240:44:28

-The glacier has shrunk by 25%

-in the last 25 years.

0:44:290:44:34

-Herr and Frau Lorez have lived

-at the foot of the Rheinwaldhorn...

0:44:400:44:46

-..for many years.

0:44:460:44:49

-The summit is common land.

0:44:530:44:55

-Everyone owns the Alps.

0:44:550:44:57

-Yes, it belongs

-to the whole village.

0:44:580:45:01

-We look after the land -

-we're all shepherds.

0:45:010:45:04

-There's no need to worry as long as

-everyone understands each other...

0:45:050:45:09

-..and no-one argues.

0:45:090:45:11

-When there is a misunderstanding,

-it is difficult.

0:45:110:45:15

-Everyone has to discuss.

-That's how it is in summer.

0:45:150:45:19

-From early-June to September.

0:45:200:45:22

-There's no need to be

-an authority on the environment...

0:45:280:45:32

-..to realize that the glacier

-is shrinking if you live here.

0:45:320:45:36

-My father always said

-that it was a ten-minute walk...

0:45:450:45:49

-..from the village to the glacier.

0:45:490:45:51

-You can now walk for three hours

-without reaching the glacier.

0:45:510:45:55

-That was back in the 1920s.

0:45:560:45:59

-Years ago, when it rained here...

0:46:110:46:13

-..it all stayed on the mountain.

0:46:140:46:16

-Now, it all slips down.

0:46:160:46:19

-We're worried

-in case there's an avalanche.

0:46:190:46:24

-It's a good source for

-the village's fresh water supply...

0:46:340:46:37

-..but if there's no ice on the top

-and no water flowing down...

0:46:370:46:41

-..it will be desolate here.

0:46:410:46:43

-Another way of life

-will disappear for ever.

0:46:500:46:54

-In Wales, we understand

-the pain and worry that's caused...

0:46:550:46:59

-..as communities die out,

-no matter what the cause.

0:46:590:47:02

-The traditions and culture

-of these people could disappear.

0:47:020:47:07

-No-one can deny that this glacier,

-like others in Europe...

0:47:100:47:15

-..is melting at a faster rate.

0:47:150:47:18

-The melting ice could surge

-along the valley floor...

0:47:180:47:24

-..causing floods

-that could engulf towns in its path.

0:47:240:47:28

-In the most extreme scenario,

-the ice could melt away completely.

0:47:300:47:34

-What then for the Rhine?

0:47:340:47:36

-What would happen

-to the farmers and fishermen...

0:47:360:47:40

-..the hauliers

-and the factory workers?

0:47:400:47:42

-What about the plants and the fish?

0:47:420:47:44

-What about the countries

-and their borders...

0:47:450:47:47

-..the people and their languages?

0:47:470:47:49

-Changing the river's direction...

0:47:490:47:52

-..changes the future

-of these people.

0:47:520:47:54

-Along my journey, I've realized

-that the Rhine, for centuries...

0:48:020:48:07

-..has supplied

-many countries and nations.

0:48:070:48:10

-Some live along its banks -

-others live far, far away.

0:48:100:48:14

-People have fought

-to control its waters...

0:48:140:48:19

-..but now,

-everyone will have to unite...

0:48:190:48:23

-..to safeguard the river.

0:48:240:48:26

-They must fight, side by side...

0:48:260:48:28

-..to secure it future

-in all its splendour.

0:48:280:48:31

-Today, uniting in this effort

-is the challenge.

0:48:310:48:36

-S4C subtitles by Simian 04 Cyf.

0:49:110:49:13

-.

0:49:130:49:14

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