John Pierce Jones: Yr Atacama Yr Anialwch


John Pierce Jones: Yr Atacama

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-The desert -

-arid, desolate, uncompromising.

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-A far-reaching barren landscape.

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-But it is in these unfamiliar places

-that nature flourishes...

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-..and inhabitants dwell.

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-With vigour and resilience,

-they have learnt to survive...

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-..and forged a unique way of life.

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-But today, it is under pressure

-from the modern world.

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-Trade and industry

-are coveting the desert's resources.

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-Natives have had to adapt

-quicker than ever before.

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-This is the story

-of resilient and tenacious people...

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-..preserving their habitat

-and fighting for the right...

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-..to live in the most

-challenging places on earth.

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-You only need one word

-to describe this place.

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-Dry.

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-So incredibly dry in parts...

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-..that no bacteria

-is able to thrive here.

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-And if no bacteria thrives,

-what chance do people have?

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-Welcome to the Atacama Desert,

-one of the driest places on earth.

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-Some areas haven't seen a drop

-of rain for at least 400 years.

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-But somehow,

-communities have flourished here.

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-Colourful communities

-full of fun and spirit.

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-But the Atacama has witnessed

-its fair share of bleak times too.

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-These parched lands

-retain the secrets of the past.

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-The worst atrocities

-are still in living memory.

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-The Atacama faces

-another bleak period in its history.

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-Mining companies are busy

-ravaging the desert's treasures...

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-..by redirecting

-its most precious resource...

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-..and sucking the life

-from the ground.

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-Scarce water that once sustained

-people is now sustaining business.

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-And yet, perhaps

-it is in this infertile land...

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-..that we may solve some of the

-biggest mysteries of the universe...

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-..and discover

-there is life on other planets.

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-I'm venturing into the heart of

-the Atacama to observe its wonders.

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-It's also a personal pilgrimage...

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-..since I've been brought up...

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-..hearing stories about Antofagasta

-and Taltal, the Atacama's ports.

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-But there is also

-one tragic family tale...

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-..to do with the Atacama.

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-I hope being here

-will shed light on the story.

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-A town in the Andean highlands.

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-In the mountains above the town...

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-..my journey begins.

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-These mountains prevent the clouds

-from reaching the Atacama.

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-That is why it is so dry here.

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-But in these barren highlands...

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-..farmers

-are trying to scrape a living.

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-Benita Panire is one such farmer.

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-She has farmed here for 60 years.

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-Alone.

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-It's a hard life.

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-It's challenging for anyone.

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-Lucky I was brought up on a farm.

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-I might've been raised on a farm,

-but the lack of oxygen here...

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-..is affecting me.

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-I'm out of breath.

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-We're 10,000 feet above sea level

-and the air is thin.

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-Compared to Snowdon,

-it's three times as high.

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-For Benita, it's not the height...

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-..but the extreme weather

-that poses the biggest problem.

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-The wind

-is the worst thing in winter.

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-There is dust everywhere

-and it's very cold.

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-Benita has no electricity

-or running water.

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-Years ago, she walked miles

-to fetch water from a mountain well.

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-But the journey

-has since become too much for her.

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-She relies

-on the kindness of neighbours...

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-..and avoids wasting a single drop.

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-They bring me water every week

-which lasts from seven to 15 days...

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-..if I use it sparingly.

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-Benita farms here alone...

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-..and follows the same

-farming methods as the Incas.

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-Incan remains can be found nearby.

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-Despite the hardship, she is

-continuing the ancient tradition...

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-..and the old way of life.

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-Benita's nephew, Rene,

-is a frequent visitor.

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-He is the elder of a community which

-lives at the foot of the mountain...

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-..in the town of Ayquina.

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-But life

-isn't any easier here either.

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-HE SPEAKS SPANISH

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-I worry about

-our standard of living.

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-It's the 21st century, but it's like

-people are living in the Stone Age.

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-There is no running water

-and no sewage system.

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-People must use the open fields.

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-Although Ayquina

-looks like a sprawling town...

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-..only 70 people live here

-throughout the year.

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-A lack of resources

-is the reason for this.

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-Even if there were

-a water supply here...

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-..residents wouldn't be able

-to drink it because in Chile...

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-..water is a privatized resource.

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-Residents may sell water rations

-provided by the government...

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-..for the best price.

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-It's a strange system

-in a strange town.

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-But if the streets

-are usually empty...

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-..twice a year that all changes.

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-RHYTHMIC DRUMBEAT

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-This is the main procession

-for the town's three-day festival...

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-..dedicated to its patron.

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-The Spaniards brought a statue

-of the Virgin of Guadalupe here...

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-..and she disappeared.

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-Locals have been busy for weeks

-making bread and food...

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-..and arranging flowers for

-the many visitors who flock here.

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-The costumes, dances and rituals

-date back to the Pagan roots...

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-..of the native tribes.

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-Before you start tutting...

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-..what about Santes Dwynwen

-and Santes Brid, or even Christmas?

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-Today the people celebrate

-the miraculous appearance...

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-..of the Virgin of Guadalupe.

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-Nobody knows for certain

-on which day the Virgin appeared...

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-..almost 400 years ago.

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-So in order to escape her scorn,

-residents hold two celebrations.

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-In September and December.

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-How religious!

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-This is a tight-knit community...

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-..and everybody

-contributes to the festivities.

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-Rene's aunt makes the popcorn.

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-It's a feast for the entire family.

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-At its peak, the festival

-sees more than 70,000 people...

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-..descend on Ayquina.

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-There is no denying

-the joy and jubilation.

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-But the celebrating

-masks a sad reality.

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-This community

-and its unique culture...

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-..is under threat.

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-Only a minority of people work hard

-to preserve this tradition.

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-Although the visitors are native

-to the village, they've moved away.

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-But they return

-to keep the ritual alive...

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-..and to help those who remain.

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-One of the biggest tragedies

-in all of this...

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-..is that the native language

-is taking its last breath.

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-That is the price

-they've had to pay for growth.

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-The inhabitants of Ayquina

-are descendents of the Aymara tribe.

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-Their history in the Andes

-dates back more than 2,000 years.

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-Their costumes, music,

-dance and language...

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-..originate from an era...

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-..before the first Europeans

-set foot on their land.

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-They also hold the secret

-to the long survival of the Aymara.

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-In such a dry place as this...

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-..how was it possible

-for a civilized society to thrive?

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-In the shadow of the Andes

-in the Atacama Desert...

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-..the residents of Ayquina

-are eager to reveal a secret.

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-The secret to the survival

-of their ancestors, the Aymara.

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-This is one of

-the driest places in the world.

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-It has always been that way.

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-We're here at one of

-the Atacama's archaeological sites.

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-You'd never believe it,

-but more than 1,000 years ago...

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-..this was greenery.

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-People farmed these arid plains...

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-..and kept animals.

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-They grew vegetables and plants.

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-Generations of people lived here.

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-"Where did they find water?"

-you may ask.

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-Remember,

-this was more than 1,000 years ago.

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-From that mountain

-in the distance...

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-..they created a hydraulic system

-of tunnels and pipes...

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-..which extended

-all the way down to here...

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-..to irrigate

-these plots in the plains...

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-..so that vegetables would grow.

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-But what about

-during the long winters...

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-..when the glaciers didn't melt?

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-According to Cesar Milan,

-a local archaeologist...

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-..this is when the Aymara's

-ingenuity came to the fore.

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-This dam was built

-with random holes.

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-These holes could be opened

-or closed to control the flow.

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-People devised a way of cultivating

-food and a way of life...

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-..that is still relevant today.

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-They were

-very contemporary for their time.

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-We can all learn a lesson...

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-..from the Aymara's resourcefulness.

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-When a close-knit community shares

-the same dogged determination...

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-..they can overcome

-any hardship and achieve anything.

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-More than 1,000 years later...

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-..the Aymara's legacy

-is still reviving the land.

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-Today, on the slopes

-beneath Ayquina...

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-..there is a hidden oasis.

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-Terraces of crops...

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-..irrigated by water channels...

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-..which spring from a mountain well.

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-The system is almost

-a carbon copy of the Aymara's.

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-These vegetables look wonderful.

-I grow my own vegetables at home.

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-These acorns and sweetcorn

-are much better than mine.

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-But then again, I have plenty of

-water. But my potatoes are better!

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-What's this?

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-It's a simple question, but why

-is the answer so long winded?

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-WOMAN SPEAKS SPANISH

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-There's only one thing for it -

-I'll taste it, whatever it's called.

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-This is definitely pepper.

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-She thinks it's funny!

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-I need some water.

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-Yes, water, the secret of

-the Aymara's agricultural success.

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-But not everything

-in the Garden of Eden is rosy.

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-These days,

-industrialists with deep pockets...

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-..are vying for

-the Atacama's water...

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-..by redirecting

-this scarce resource...

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-..and threatening

-to change the desert for ever.

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-Despite the desolate landscape...

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-..there are treasures

-hiding beneath this wilderness.

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-Gold, silver...

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-..iron, copper, lithium.

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-There's an abundance

-of each one here.

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-Mining is incredibly lucrative.

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-There are hundreds of mines the

-length and breadth of the desert.

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-Underfoot is over half

-the world's lithium supply.

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-Chile

-currently produces more copper...

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-..than any other country.

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-But why is the Atacama...

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-..so rich in minerals?

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-In order to answer that question...

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-..we must go back

-more than a hundred million years.

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-Long ago,

-it wasn't a desert, it was a sea.

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-The seas receded...

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-..leaving saltwater lakes behind.

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-When they eventually dried up,

-all that remained was salt crystal.

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-In Wales, a block of salt...

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-..wouldn't survive in the open air -

-it would instantly melt in the rain.

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-But there is practically

-no moisture in the Atacama.

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-Salt can be mined on a vast scale.

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-One of the largest mines

-in the Atacama...

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-..is the Salar Grande de Tarapaca.

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-The reservoir is 5km wide...

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-..and measures 45km in length.

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-There is enough salt here for every

-person in the world for centuries.

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-Salt of the earth? This is it.

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-But the business magnates

-face one basic problem.

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-The process of mining minerals

-like copper and lithium...

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-..utilises vast amounts of water.

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-Water is the one thing

-that's scarce here.

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-That's why the major companies

-are so keen to buy more of it.

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-The inhabitants of the Atacama...

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-..receive water rations

-from the government annually.

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-But instead of using them,

-they are able to sell them.

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-Usually...

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-..the major mining companies are

-the ones offering the highest price.

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-For villages and towns

-throughout the Atacama...

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-..the ramifications are detrimental.

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-I'm on the outskirts of Quillagua...

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-..one of the driest places

-on the face of the earth.

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-It has earned a place

-in the Guinness Book Of Records.

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-Every morning,

-Quillagua's officials...

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-..meet to perform

-a completely unnecessary ceremony.

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-This is the instrument

-used to measure rainwater.

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-The most idle rain gauge

-in all the world!

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-It hasn't measured

-a single drop of rain in 40 years.

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-Thank goodness

-Andres has a second job.

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-He's the owner

-of the village's only hotel.

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-He gives the same old spiel

-to every new visitor...

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-..who stays here.

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-Here in Quillagua,

-the water is rationed.

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-Residents receive a small ration.

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-No-one is allowed to use...

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-..more than

-42 litres of water a day.

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-I'm so glad you won't be able

-to smell me for the next few days!

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-The weekly supply

-is delivered by truck...

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-..which is odd because

-Quillagua is a former spa town.

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-It stands on the banks

-of the Atacama's largest river.

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-The River Loa.

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-The Loa flows...

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-..from the Andes, through

-the desert to the Pacific Ocean.

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-Years ago, it allowed

-the wilderness to flourish.

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-What has become of it

-is something of a mystery.

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-In search of the answer,

-I invite myself to dinner...

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-..with Andres

-and brother Miguel's family.

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-I love meeting new people...

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-..but there's a certain awkwardness

-around the table.

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-The meal is delicious.

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-Nothing beats home-cooked food, but

-the family makes apologies for it.

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-They tell me a decade ago...

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-..they would've offered me

-a wide range of local delicacies...

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-..including lobster from the river.

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-Miguel is a farmer.

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-After lunch, he leads me

-to the banks of the river...

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-..to show me the family's land

-which was once very fertile.

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-These photographs

-were taken between 1982 and 1987.

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-These are photographs of

-the field we're standing in today.

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-Years ago, we set traps

-to catch lobster from the river.

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-They had large claws.

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-One was enough for breakfast.

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-With some fried onions,

-it was a breakfast fit for a king.

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-But things rapidly changed.

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-In 1987, the Chilean government

-agreed on a plan...

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-..to redirect

-almost 70% of the river's water...

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-..to be used

-for industrial purposes.

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-It was about to get much worse.

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-Upstream is one of

-the world's largest copper mines...

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-..which uses xanthate.

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-According to experts in the field...

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-..it has polluted the River Loa.

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-By the year 2000, xanthate levels

-in the water were incredibly high.

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-It was also polluted

-with mercury and arsenic.

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-The lobster, along with everything

-that lived close to the bank, died.

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-It's ironic to think

-that I'm here...

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-..in one of

-the driest places on Earth...

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-..close to

-the community of Quillagua...

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-..and sitting on a riverbank.

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-But that's precisely

-why this community was formed.

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-This was once a fertile oasis.

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-But after the miners

-took possession of it...

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-..the crops withered.

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-The water

-flowed through the copper mines.

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-What came back down the river...

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-..was highly-polluted water.

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-A ration for polluted water

-is good for nothing.

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-More than half

-have sold their rations...

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-..to the company

-which caused the problem.

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-Before we leave, Quillagua

-has one further secret to reveal.

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-.

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-Subtitles

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-Dry and desolate.

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-This description

-could well sum up the Atacama.

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-But people have survived here

-for 10,000 years...

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-..and established

-an ancient culture.

0:24:500:24:53

-The landscape itself

-is testament to that.

0:24:530:24:56

-Pictures in the sand have stood

-the test of time in the dry terrain.

0:25:010:25:06

-Remains of its ancient history...

0:25:110:25:13

-..can be found

-in many different forms.

0:25:140:25:16

-Some are enough

-to give you a fright.

0:25:170:25:22

-Felisa Sosa, curator of Quillagua's

-museum, is a real character.

0:25:280:25:33

-Considering the artefacts

-she guards, it's a good job!

0:25:330:25:37

-These are Chinchorro mummies,

-the remains of an ancient tribe...

0:25:430:25:47

-..who lived in the Atacama

-thousands of years ago.

0:25:480:25:51

-The elders believed...

0:25:530:25:56

-..that the mummies

-were able to commune with the dead.

0:25:560:26:00

-Their eyes and mouths were opened...

0:26:000:26:03

-..so that they

-could speak with both worlds.

0:26:030:26:06

-The living

-and the dead on other side.

0:26:070:26:09

-No.

0:26:130:26:15

-A museum in Wales would preserve

-precious artefacts like these...

0:26:160:26:23

-..in special cases

-to keep them free from moisture.

0:26:230:26:27

-But there is no need

-for Felicia to be concerned.

0:26:300:26:34

-The air is so incredibly dry

-that nothing rots.

0:26:340:26:38

-Bald. No hair?

0:26:410:26:44

-Among the mummies...

0:26:480:26:50

-..is one

-with a completely different story.

0:26:500:26:54

-This wasn't

-one of the Chinchorro tribe...

0:26:550:26:58

-..but a slave

-or a coolie from China.

0:26:580:27:01

-He was enslaved

-a century and a half ago...

0:27:030:27:06

-..and brought to the Atacama

-to work in the mines.

0:27:060:27:09

-Forensic tests

-carried out on his liver...

0:27:100:27:13

-..show that he was a slave...

0:27:130:27:15

-..in more than one way.

0:27:160:27:18

-His masters plied him

-with nothing more than alcohol.

0:27:180:27:22

-This was a cruel chapter

-in the Atacama's history.

0:27:250:27:29

-I can sense spirits of the past...

0:27:460:27:48

-..convening everywhere here.

0:27:480:27:51

-Around every corner are the remnants

-of old industries and communities...

0:27:530:27:59

-..which evolved quickly

-only to disappear soon afterwards...

0:27:590:28:04

-..once the desert

-yielded its minerals and wealth.

0:28:040:28:08

-Chacabuco is a place...

0:28:120:28:14

-..that is significant

-to me personally.

0:28:150:28:18

-Among the ruins...

0:28:200:28:22

-..I'm hoping to learn more

-about a sad tale...

0:28:220:28:26

-..in my family's history.

0:28:260:28:28

-It's evident that a civilised town

-once stood here...

0:28:280:28:33

-..in a remote creek...

0:28:330:28:36

-..in one of

-the most barren places on earth.

0:28:360:28:39

-A scarcity of water

-wasn't all bad...

0:28:390:28:42

-..because it provided salvation

-for the Atacama.

0:28:420:28:46

-It attracted people and industry.

0:28:460:28:48

-Saltpetre formed due to the dry air

-and rain was unlikely to melt it.

0:28:480:28:55

-It was used to make gunpowder...

0:28:550:28:59

-..and land fertilizer.

0:29:000:29:03

-This is what

-connects the Atacama with Wales.

0:29:030:29:08

-In its heyday...

0:29:110:29:13

-..Chile exported Chacabuco saltpetre

-to four corners of the world.

0:29:130:29:18

-The country's ports were known

-to people on every continent...

0:29:180:29:22

-..including people in Wales.

0:29:230:29:25

-Workers flocked here

-and enjoyed a wealth of amenities...

0:29:300:29:35

-..such as a church,

-a theatre and a hospital.

0:29:350:29:38

-When I told people in Newborough,

-the town in which I was raised...

0:29:480:29:53

-..that I was coming to Chile,

-they were surprised.

0:29:530:29:56

-If I'd said that 100 years ago,

-most of the men would've been here.

0:29:570:30:01

-Wales's seamen

-were familiar with Chile.

0:30:010:30:04

-I've been brought up hearing about

-Taltal and Valparaiso.

0:30:050:30:09

-There is one tragic story

-in my family's history...

0:30:090:30:13

-..involving my grandmother's

-brother, Thomas Pierce...

0:30:130:30:17

-..who was a young officer

-aboard a ship called The Pengwern.

0:30:170:30:21

-It came from San Francisco...

0:30:210:30:23

-..to collect a load

-of saltpetre from Taltal...

0:30:230:30:27

-..the Atacama's principal port.

0:30:270:30:30

-On the return journey

-close to Hamburg, the ship sunk...

0:30:300:30:34

-..and all the passengers drowned.

0:30:340:30:37

-They were from Newborough,

-Lleyn and Eifionydd.

0:30:370:30:40

-They say the village was silent

-for a fortnight after the tragedy.

0:30:400:30:45

-I've finally had the chance

-to visit the place...

0:30:450:30:49

-..I'd heard so much about

-during my childhood.

0:30:490:30:52

-But while Chacabuco

-was at its peak...

0:30:560:31:00

-..times quickly changed.

0:31:000:31:02

-During the First World War, Chile

-refused to export goods to Germany.

0:31:040:31:10

-If the enemy wanted gunpowder...

0:31:110:31:14

-..it would have to produce its own,

-and that's precisely what happened.

0:31:140:31:19

-Germany discovered a way

-of producing synthetic saltpetre...

0:31:190:31:24

-..for a fraction of the price.

0:31:240:31:26

-It did not bode well

-for the Atacama's saltpetre towns.

0:31:260:31:32

-Germany put paid

-to the industry here.

0:31:330:31:36

-Dozens of towns like this

-were depopulated.

0:31:360:31:39

-But Chacabuco

-served another purpose...

0:31:420:31:46

-..in one of the grimmest years

-in Chile's history.

0:31:460:31:50

-In 1973, General Augusto Pinochet...

0:31:530:31:57

-..led a military coup...

0:31:570:32:00

-..to overthrow

-the democratic government of Chile.

0:32:000:32:04

-With the support

-of the United States...

0:32:060:32:09

-..Pinochet

-killed his socialist opponents...

0:32:100:32:13

-..and had them incarcerated where

-they endured torture and violence.

0:32:140:32:19

-Pinochet claimed that

-Chacabuco was the perfect place...

0:32:220:32:26

-..in which

-to keep his enemies interned.

0:32:270:32:29

-1,800 teaches, students, blue-collar

-and white collar-workers...

0:32:340:32:39

-..were incarcerated here.

0:32:390:32:41

-Chacabuco served its final purpose.

0:32:460:32:49

-It became a torture prison

-for Pinochet's henchmen.

0:32:490:32:54

-It was far from anywhere

-so no-one could hear the screams.

0:32:540:32:59

-Unfortunately, this wasn't

-the last of Pinochet's crimes...

0:32:590:33:03

-..in the Atacama.

0:33:030:33:05

-.

0:33:110:33:12

-Subtitles

0:33:150:33:15

-Subtitles

-

-Subtitles

0:33:150:33:17

-Calama -

-a city in the Atacama Desert...

0:33:200:33:23

-..in Chile.

0:33:230:33:25

-I've come to meet a woman...

0:33:290:33:31

-..who, for 40 years,

-has led a campaign for justice.

0:33:310:33:34

-For Violeta Berios,

-the Atacama isn't just a desert...

0:33:390:33:43

-..it's a cemetery in which her lover

-and many young men are buried.

0:33:430:33:47

-SHE SPEAKS SPANISH

0:33:510:33:53

-Mario was a handsome man.

0:33:530:33:56

-He was an ordinary,

-working class man...

0:33:560:33:59

-..who belonged to

-a left-wing party...

0:34:000:34:04

-..that ultimately led him

-to his grave.

0:34:040:34:07

-Within weeks

-of Pinochet coming to power...

0:34:100:34:13

-..a special commission

-within his army...

0:34:140:34:17

-..was deployed to Calama

-by helicopter.

0:34:170:34:20

-Residents aptly named the convoy

-the Caravan of Death.

0:34:200:34:24

-The caravan's commander-in-chief

-and friend of Pinochet...

0:34:250:34:29

-..was Sergio Arellano Stark...

0:34:290:34:32

-..who took great pride

-in his duties.

0:34:320:34:35

-Mario came to his attention.

0:34:380:34:41

-Mario was arrested...

0:34:470:34:50

-..on the 30th of September.

0:34:500:34:52

-He was imprisoned for a fortnight

-underground and tortured.

0:34:530:34:58

-They did what they wanted to him.

0:34:580:35:01

-By the next time I saw him...

0:35:020:35:04

-..he was a broken man.

0:35:050:35:07

-He had lost weight and was covered

-in wounds on his head...

0:35:080:35:13

-..and arms.

0:35:140:35:15

-I'll never forget it.

0:35:160:35:18

-"What happened to you, Mario?"

-I asked.

0:35:180:35:21

-"If only you saw

-the rest of my body," he said.

0:35:210:35:24

-Violeta never saw

-her boyfriend again.

0:35:290:35:32

-The next time

-I visited the prison...

0:35:420:35:44

-..Mario had gone.

0:35:450:35:47

-I went to

-the Rodriguez family home...

0:35:470:35:50

-..and as I arrived,

-I heard the wailing and screaming.

0:35:500:35:55

-I knocked on the door and they

-said to me, "They've killed him."

0:35:550:35:59

-"They've killed him."

0:36:000:36:03

-Mario, along with a further

-22 Calama residents were killed...

0:36:060:36:11

-..by Pinochet's Caravan of Death.

0:36:110:36:14

-Soldiers collected the bodies

-and buried them in a mass grave...

0:36:140:36:19

-..somewhere in the desert.

0:36:190:36:21

-In their distress, wives, mothers

-and sisters met in secret.

0:36:210:36:26

-The women of Calama...

0:36:310:36:33

-..made it their mission

-to find their loved ones' grave.

0:36:330:36:37

-For weeks, months, years...

0:36:400:36:43

-..they searched in vain.

0:36:430:36:45

-Then, 17 years later...

0:36:510:36:55

-..they located the grave.

0:36:550:36:57

-The women had expected to exhume

-entire bodies from the sand.

0:36:570:37:02

-But they were disappointed.

0:37:040:37:06

-They found only dismembered parts

-of the men's bodies.

0:37:070:37:10

-Various bones...

0:37:130:37:15

-..fingers, nails...

0:37:150:37:17

-..and the occasional tooth.

0:37:180:37:20

-The search was finally over.

0:37:280:37:30

-But one painful question

-still remained.

0:37:330:37:36

-Nothing rots in the Atacama Desert,

-so the bodies...

0:37:360:37:40

-..should have remained intact.

0:37:400:37:42

-So what happened to them?

0:37:430:37:45

-Finally in 2007...

0:37:460:37:49

-..more than 30 years...

0:37:500:37:51

-..after the executions...

0:37:520:37:54

-..eyewitnesses provided the answer.

0:37:540:37:58

-Some months after burying the

-bodies of Mario and the others...

0:37:580:38:02

-..Pinochet realized his mistake.

0:38:030:38:05

-The desert would retain evidence

-of his evil acts forever.

0:38:050:38:10

-The bodies had to be moved.

0:38:100:38:13

-The soldiers

-returned with a bulldozer...

0:38:160:38:18

-..and dug for the graves.

0:38:190:38:21

-The bodies were exhumed and disposed

-of, like rubbish, into the sea.

0:38:210:38:26

-Although it was

-a harrowing discovery...

0:38:330:38:37

-..at last

-the women of Calama knew the truth.

0:38:370:38:40

-They have lived...

0:38:450:38:47

-..in the shadow of Pinochet's

-Caravan of Death for 40 years.

0:38:470:38:52

-One day alone

-has taken its toll on me.

0:38:530:38:57

-I saw photographs -

-not of those who had died...

0:38:580:39:01

-..but of those who had

-just been horrifically tortured.

0:39:010:39:07

-I've never seen

-anything like it in my life...

0:39:070:39:11

-..and I hope I never see

-anything like it again.

0:39:110:39:14

-And Margaret Thatcher

-was one of Pinochet's supporters.

0:39:150:39:18

-For shame on her.

0:39:190:39:21

-The desert is a test...

0:39:370:39:39

-..of a man's spirit.

0:39:400:39:41

-Being in the extremities...

0:39:420:39:44

-..allows us

-to look outside ourselves...

0:39:440:39:47

-..and ponder the things

-that are beyond our comprehension...

0:39:470:39:52

-..here on earth.

0:39:520:39:54

-To end my journey

-across the Atacama Desert...

0:39:570:40:00

-..I visit a place

-where people specialize...

0:40:010:40:04

-..in observing other worlds.

0:40:040:40:07

-Here we are

-at the Paranal Observatory...

0:40:070:40:12

-..one of the world's main

-observatories to view space.

0:40:120:40:16

-Before we arrived, we had to take

-a health and safety examination.

0:40:160:40:21

-One of the stipulations is that we

-must wear sunglasses at all times.

0:40:210:40:26

-Here, 2,600m above sea level...

0:40:300:40:32

-..the atmosphere

-offers little protection...

0:40:330:40:37

-..from the damaging effects

-of the sun's rays.

0:40:370:40:41

-This is where we're staying.

0:40:420:40:45

-The entire place looks supernatural.

0:40:450:40:49

-It's like a nuclear bunker.

0:40:500:40:52

-We'll soon see.

0:40:530:40:55

-The European Government's budget...

0:40:580:41:02

-..has funded this observatory.

0:41:020:41:05

-They've made sure

-that the scientists who work here...

0:41:050:41:09

-..have all their creature comforts.

0:41:090:41:12

-It's incredible.

0:41:290:41:31

-It's very different from

-what it looks like on the outside.

0:41:320:41:36

-I've just been told it was used

-in the previous James Bond film.

0:41:360:41:40

-I can well believe it.

0:41:410:41:43

-That pool looks out of place.

0:41:430:41:45

-A swimming pool

-in the middle of the desert?

0:41:460:41:49

-I'll tell you one thing.

0:41:490:41:51

-It's very different from every other

-place I've stayed in on my journey.

0:41:510:41:56

-Enjoy it, John!

0:41:560:41:58

-This is what attracts the boffins.

0:41:590:42:01

-A telescope

-which literally looks into the past.

0:42:020:42:05

-It's so powerful,

-it can detect starlight...

0:42:060:42:09

-..in the farthest corner

-of the universe.

0:42:090:42:13

-A light which left the sky

-millions of years ago.

0:42:130:42:17

-This is science

-at its most sophisticated...

0:42:200:42:24

-..although it has

-a non-scientific name.

0:42:240:42:27

-The VLT - the Very Large Telescope.

0:42:280:42:32

-This is the most powerful telescope

-in all the world.

0:42:390:42:43

-It makes Jodrell Bank

-look like a magnifying glass!

0:42:440:42:48

-Scientists

-from all over the world come here...

0:42:480:42:52

-..to conduct research into space...

0:42:520:42:54

-..to discover what exactly exists

-on other planets.

0:42:550:42:58

-What they're searching for

-most of all...

0:42:580:43:01

-..is something

-that doesn't exist here.

0:43:020:43:04

-Water.

0:43:050:43:07

-The discovery of water...

0:43:070:43:11

-..on planets beyond our own

-would be very significant.

0:43:110:43:17

-Where there is water,

-life forms are able to exist.

0:43:170:43:21

-THEY SPEAK SPANISH

0:43:220:43:24

-I meet Fernando Selman,

-one of the observatory's leaders...

0:43:240:43:29

-..to find an answer

-to the all-important question...

0:43:290:43:33

-..is there life on other planets?

0:43:330:43:36

-Do you know what?

-The signs are encouraging.

0:43:400:43:43

-There is water everywhere -

-on the moon, on the planets...

0:43:460:43:50

-..like Jupiter and Saturn

-as well as on comets and asteroids.

0:43:500:43:55

-Water even surrounds black holes

-in the depths of the universe.

0:43:550:43:59

-But how can a telescope

-spot water that's so far away?

0:44:020:44:06

-According to Fernando, it's

-a matter of recognizing colours.

0:44:070:44:11

-Every chemical element

-creates a different coloured light.

0:44:120:44:16

-For instance, if you hold a piece of

-salt up to a flame, it burns yellow.

0:44:160:44:22

-It's the same with water.

0:44:230:44:25

-If you study the colours of space...

0:44:260:44:29

-..you can analyze which elements...

0:44:290:44:33

-..are present, including water.

0:44:330:44:36

-Water emits a special

-quality light through space...

0:44:410:44:46

-..like a unique cosmic signature

-that is picked up by the telescope.

0:44:470:44:52

-Well, no doubt this is

-the closest to heaven I'll ever get.

0:44:530:44:58

-We're very high up here.

-That's why it's so windy.

0:44:580:45:01

-We're two and a half times

-higher than Mount Snowdon.

0:45:010:45:05

-The views are spectacular.

0:45:050:45:07

-The clouds

-are beneath us in the distance.

0:45:070:45:10

-According to the experts,

-that's the reason it's so dry here.

0:45:100:45:15

-That's why this powerful telescope

-has been housed here.

0:45:150:45:19

-The slightest bit of moisture in the

-atmosphere means it wouldn't work.

0:45:190:45:24

-They have more than

-300 days a year without rain.

0:45:240:45:29

-But up to now, despite all

-the water they've found in space...

0:45:310:45:35

-..there are no signs of life.

0:45:360:45:40

-Earth is still unique.

0:45:410:45:44

-It's hard to argue with that

-in such a magical place as this.

0:45:440:45:48

-Well, I've reached the end

-of my journey to the Atacama Desert.

0:45:510:45:56

-It's a truly remarkable place.

0:45:560:46:00

-Beautiful. Ugly.

0:46:010:46:03

-Desolate.

0:46:030:46:05

-I've never seen anywhere like it.

0:46:050:46:08

-The desert forces us

-to face up to life's big questions.

0:46:100:46:13

-Is there life beyond this world?

0:46:140:46:18

-Is there life on other planets?

0:46:190:46:22

-Does love

-overpower violence and injustice?

0:46:220:46:26

-One thing it's taught me

-is the value of water.

0:46:260:46:32

-It is

-completely essential to life itself.

0:46:320:46:37

-These days, man covets...

0:46:370:46:40

-..the earth's scarcest resources.

0:46:410:46:43

-Is it beyond our capability...

0:46:460:46:49

-..to sustain that which makes

-our lives possible and worth living?

0:46:490:46:54

-I'll say one thing.

0:46:580:47:01

-I'll never ever forget the Atacama.

0:47:010:47:05

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:47:360:47:39

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0:47:390:47:40

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