Yr Anialwch: Ffion Dafis: Y Gobi Yr Anialwch


Yr Anialwch: Ffion Dafis: Y Gobi

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-The desert - arid, desolate...

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-..merciless.

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-A barren landscape

-stretching for miles on end.

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-But in these foreign places,

-nature flourishes...

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-..and people have settled.

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-With spirit and assiduity,

-they have learnt to survive...

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-..and forged a unique way of life.

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-But today, it is under pressure

-from the modern world.

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-Trade and industry

-vie for the desert's resources.

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-Natives have had to adapt

-quicker than ever before.

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-This is the story

-of inventive and tenacious people...

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-..preserving their habitat

-and fighting for the right...

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-..to live in the most

-challenging places on earth.

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-The Gobi Desert

-is at a turning point in its

-history

-

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-I'm here just in time

-to witness that fateful hour...

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-..when everything changes.

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-This is Asia's largest desert.

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-If square miles

-mean anything to you...

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-..the Gobi Desert

-measures more than a million.

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-It's a place of two extremes -

-scorching summers...

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-..and freezing winters.

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-Gobi literally means

-a place without water...

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-..which is what you'd expect

-from a desert, naturally.

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-The wind and the cold make this

-desert one of the world's harshest.

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-During winter, temperatures

-dip to 40 degrees below freezing.

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-I've come here...

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-..to discover how people survive

-in this extraordinary place.

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-This is the secret of the Gobi.

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-To be independent,

-you have to depend on something.

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-The children of the Gobi

-fully understand the paradox.

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-Unlike any other place on earth,

-people and animals...

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-..have learnt

-to depend on one another.

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-But that age-old relationship

-is under strain.

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-Change is afoot

-and no-one is certain of the future.

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-Some will prosper

-while others will falter.

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-But to where does the new path lead?

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-For better or worse...

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-..this is the Gobi that we're

-never likely to see again.

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-Reaching the depths of the Gobi

-is a feat in itself.

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-From Ulaanbaatar,

-the capital of Mongolia...

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-..I must fly to Dalanzadgad before

-driving to the middle of nowhere.

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-It's easier said than done.

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-It's taken

-four full days to reach here...

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-..a day and a half of which

-was spent at Ulaanbaatar airport.

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-Since it was snowing so heavily

-in the Gobi, we were unable to land.

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-It's around

-minus 11 or 12 degrees Celsius.

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-It takes two hours

-to reach the heart of the desert.

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-I have no idea what awaits us.

-My adventure is about to begin.

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-It's hard to believe...

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-..that agriculture has sustained

-the Gobi from the very beginning...

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-..but it's the truth.

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-The Gobi's farmers are nomads.

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-I'm on my way to meet a family...

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-..who, like their ancestors

-before them, sustain themselves...

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-..by accompanying their animals

-to new grazing pasture.

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-It's early morning and eventually

-I reach the family and its flock.

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-NATIVE SINGING

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-Aidee and his wife, Gamma...

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-..have invited me

-to live with them for a few days...

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-..in their family's tent

-called a ger.

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-No matter how cold it is outside,

-the welcome inside the ger...

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-..is as warm as the tea.

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-Argh, wow, that's hot!

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-I'm not too sure about it either.

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-I don't know what's in it.

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-Salt and camel's milk, I think.

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-Hot.

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-And those?

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-Thank you very much.

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-I can't say the local delicacies

-are to my liking either!

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-Each working day

-begins with an early start.

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-Having been warned about

-the freezing temperatures...

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-..I thought

-I'd dressed appropriately.

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-But Gamma has other ideas.

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-That's tight!

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-The first task is to fetch milk.

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-I've never milked anything before.

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-I didn't think the first thing

-I'd milk would be a camel!

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-Right, OK, let me try.

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-Oh, they're down here.

-I'll try this one.

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-At least that's one way

-of warming up the hands!

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-It's very, very warm.

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-I'm starting to get a rhythm going.

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-Ooh!

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-Camels are the most valuable animals

-but they also keep sheep and goats.

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-Aidee shows me how to round up the

-sheep in a language they understand.

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-Hoggun!

-Hoggun, hoggun, hoggun, hoggun.

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-Hoggun! Hoggun!

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-Hoggun!

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-They tell me it's hoggun,

-not hogan (girl)!

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-Hoggun. Yes?

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-She's laughing at me. Hoggun!

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-From the youngest to the eldest,

-they each have a role to play.

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-Although life is hard, Aidee insists

-it's far from a poor existence.

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-HE SPEAKS MONGOLIAN

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-Farmers like me

-are never short of money.

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-If I need money today,

-for instance...

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-..I could

-sell an animal or a camel.

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-But without the animals,

-life here would be impossible.

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-What strikes me the most...

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-..is the way

-people dote on their animals.

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-It can be seen and heard everywhere.

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-WOMAN SINGS

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-This morning

-this sheep gave birth to two lambs.

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-According to Gamma, singing

-is the best way to soothe the pain.

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-It's instinctive for the Nomads

-and an eye opener for me.

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-They love their animals so much...

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-..that they truly believe

-they have feelings too.

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-If they believe they're in danger

-or sense that they're unhappy...

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-..they start singing traditional

-Mongolian folk songs from the heart.

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-I'm not just saying this...

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-..but this sheep

-appears to have completely relaxed.

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-The family's biggest concern

-is the health of their camels.

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-As well as providing milk...

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-..the camel is their main mode

-of transport across the desert.

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-Come on! He doesn't want to move.

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-When it wants to move, that is!

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-Choo!

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-Choo! Choo!

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-Today Aidee and I

-set out on a long journey.

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-We're taking the camels to the well.

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-Although no other animal

-is more at home in the desert...

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-..even the camel needs to drink.

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-During mid-winter,

-they must burrow for water.

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-In this freezing desert...

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-..even the simplest task

-requires physical exertion.

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-But Aidee claims

-the Gobi's climate is changing...

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-..and wells

-are becoming even more scarce.

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-These days he must travel further

-afield to quench his camels' thirst.

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-This one intake of water

-is enough...

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-..to sustain the flock

-for at least another week.

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-This is the only well in the area...

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-..and it's shared

-by many neighbouring families.

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-It goes to show

-that even in extreme temperatures...

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-..they go to great lengths...

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-..to provide water

-for the camels and their families.

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-It's been a good day

-for Aidee, me and the camel.

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-WOMAN SINGS IN MONGOLIAN

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-But back at the ger,

-some sad news awaits us.

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-Gamma is trying to console

-one of the mother camels.

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-Watching this touching scene

-has left me quite emotional.

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-It's wonderful.

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-This camel lost a baby this morning

-and she's been singing.

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-I didn't expect to react this way.

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-That was so moving.

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-Yes, the Gobi is already beginning

-to leave its mark on me.

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-.

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-I'm staying in a ger

-in the heart of the Gobi.

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-It's a traditional tent

-and home to Aidee and his family.

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-HE SINGS IN MONGOLIAN

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-Tonight, they perform the ritual

-of welcoming the guest...

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-..by singing and sharing a bowl

-of vodka made from camel's milk.

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-Wonderful. Thank you.

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-It's appropriate to respond

-with some of our own culture.

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-Thank you very much.

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-I'll take a swig before singing.

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-# So the old maid keeps on trying

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-# Fol-de-rol-de-rol-rol,

-fol-de-rol-de-roh

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-# All dolled up in silk... #

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-We may not

-share a common language...

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-..but singing

-seems to bridge the gap.

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-# Fol-de-rol-rol-de, rol-de-roh... #

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-I already feel like

-one of the family.

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-# Fol-de-rol-lol,

-fol-de-rol-de-roh # Yoy!

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-That was down to the vodka!

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-The entertainment

-isn't all old-fashioned.

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-But while everybody cosily gathers

-in front of the set...

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-..one member of the family

-is watching far from home.

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-More than 1,400km away, in the

-farthest corner of the desert...

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-..is Aidee's brother, Biamba,

-who lives a very different life.

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-I share the tent with a man

-who works different shifts.

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-Only the two of us live here.

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-Like many young men, Biamba

-has turned his back on farming...

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-..in order to work

-in one of the new mines...

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-..hastily being built

-across Mongolia.

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-This is the largest of them all -

-the Oyu Tolgoi.

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-It is located 80km north

-of Mongolia's border with China.

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-The Rio Tinto Group

-mines here for gold and copper.

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-It is also proving very lucrative

-for the Mongolian government.

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-Biamba is proud

-to be part of the venture.

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-Following my father's death,

-I came to live here.

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-By working here, I'm contributing

-to the development of Mongolia....

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-..and the region in general.

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-I'm very proud of that.

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-Over the next decade,

-mining is likely...

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-..to double Mongolia's economy.

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-Today, Biamba is one of a team

-drilling a new shaft...

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-..to mine for minerals.

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-The enterprise and the technology

-at work here is astounding.

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-Once it is completed, this tunnel

-will extend 1.5km underground.

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-Biamba and his team

-lead the construction.

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-We learn as we go along.

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-Additional holes will soon be needed

-and we will mine them.

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-It's a new way of life for Biamba.

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-He earns more than 1,000 a month...

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-..which is 15 times more

-than this brother as a farmer.

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-He certainly won't be dining

-on goat's meat and camel's milk.

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-His family is no longer

-his be-all and end-all.

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-The friends

-who he shares gossip with...

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-..hail from

-different parts of Mongolia.

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-This entertainment

-is more contemporary...

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-..than the singing at home.

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-The younger generation

-is breaking new ground.

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-I don't think you're ugly, camel.

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-After several nights

-spent in the remote tent...

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-..it's time for me to move on.

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-Well, my time with Aidee,

-Gamma and their family is over.

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-These memories will certainly

-stay with me for a long time.

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-These people battle the elements

-on a daily basis...

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-..and yet, they offer the warmest

-welcome on the face of the earth.

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-On leaving, the grandmother

-insists on performing a ritual...

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-..to bring me luck

-for the rest of my journey.

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-She blesses the car with,

-guess what, camel's milk!

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-Spending time with this family...

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-..has provided a glimpse

-of a unique way of life.

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-As I say my goodbyes...

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-..I find myself wondering

-how long will it last?

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-Will Aidee shortly be joining

-his brother in the mines...

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-..that are transforming the Gobi?

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-But not everybody who mines

-is employed by the major companies.

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-Some go about it

-without the corporations' help...

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-..or the government's permission.

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-We've just embarked on a journey...

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-..that's going to take

-two or three days.

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-We're trying to track down

-illegal gold miners.

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-Many factors are against us.

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-The snow, for one, and secondly...

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-..since they're illegal, they don't

-possess the relevant licences...

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-..which means they might be

-reluctant to talk to us.

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-The landscape

-is so desolate and remote...

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-..that searching for miners is like

-looking for a needle in a haystack.

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-There's nothing for it

-but to carry on...

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-..and put my faith

-in our driver, Mongol.

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-I honestly can't believe

-what our driver's doing.

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-He's looking over

-the sides of cliffs...

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-..where no sane man...

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-..would dare venture...

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-..but Mongol here

-is willing to do whatever it takes.

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-As you can see.

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-Suddenly, but inevitably,

-we've ground to a halt.

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-Go. One, two, three.

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-No way.

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-Now I'm cold, tired

-and I'm starting to lose hope...

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-..of encountering any miner.

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-Thank goodness for the other truck

-that is accompanying us.

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-Around the next corner,

-believe it or not, there's a clue.

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-I've heard about a family who can

-direct me to a man called Otgon...

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-..who's mining in the mountains.

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-Otgon's wife is called Sunne.

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-They are shepherds, but Otgon

-frequently leaves home...

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-..in a desperate effort

-to raise money...

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-..to send his daughter for

-specialist treatment overseas.

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-On the other side of the summit...

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-..he comes into view.

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-Otgon and two friends are mining

-at the sites of former goldmines.

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-With primitive equipment, they dig

-and mine deep underground...

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-..in search of the yellow treasure.

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-It's incredibly dangerous work.

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-The men must hurry before

-they are caught by the police.

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-There is no time

-to strengthen the hole.

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-It could collapse

-and bury them alive.

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-They won't allow me

-to go near the site.

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-Otgon is driven by the reason

-he must work like this.

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-My daughter

-suffers from a brain illness.

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-I'm trying to raise money to

-send her to Thailand for treatment.

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-That's why I'm mining for gold.

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-Elbow grease is the only thing...

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-..moving the earth

-and keeping them warm.

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-Petrol is scarce. What they have

-is used to run the sieving device.

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-Discovering that one piece of gold

-would make it all worthwhile.

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-They have been lucky in the past.

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-This chunk is worth hundreds

-of dollars on the black market.

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-There's no certainty we'll find

-something like this every time.

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-We might mine deep underground

-and find nothing.

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-But today,

-no matter how deep they've mined...

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-..they have little to show.

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-One tiny smidgeon,

-worth one dollar at the most.

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-Nobody makes their fortune here.

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-Despite her father's efforts...

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-..Otgon is a long way from raising

-funds for his daughter's treatment.

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-He's come to realize each year

-that the work is getting harder.

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-Since the year 2000,

-the winters have been harsh.

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-A drought in summer

-and heavy snow in winter.

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-It's been very difficult lately.

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-Otgon has witnessed major change...

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-..right across the Gobi Desert.

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-These days, the seasons

-that were once so exceptional...

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-..are more unstable

-than ever before.

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-Before leaving the mountains,

-the other driver, Tuman...

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-..is taking me somewhere where

-I can witness the change first-hand.

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-OK, I'll hold on.

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-In summer,

-water flows through this valley...

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-..but spring is late this year,

-making it possible to walk.

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-Well, almost possible!

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-OK, OK.

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-I'm walking upstream at the moment.

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-I'm falling upstream

-at the moment!

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-On the water, yes? Here?

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-OK? Here?

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-According to Tuman, who knows

-everything about this area...

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-..there is at least three metres

-of ice, so I'm quite safe.

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-We're on our way

-to see a frozen waterfall...

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-..if I ever get there.

0:24:310:24:33

-Ready? Thank you.

0:24:330:24:35

-Ohh! Tuman!

0:24:350:24:38

-Oh, goodness me!

-I'm better off crawling.

0:24:400:24:45

-Thank you.

0:24:450:24:47

-I'm going to crawl.

0:24:470:24:49

-Yes, this is the dignified world

-of the TV presenter!

0:24:500:24:53

-Finally, the effort bears fruit.

0:25:010:25:03

-Oh, wow, that's incredible.

0:25:060:25:10

-It was worth the effort

-to get up here.

0:25:100:25:13

-It's metres thick...

0:25:140:25:16

-..and there's

-an incredible greenish hue to it.

0:25:160:25:20

-Let me see

-if I can get a little closer.

0:25:200:25:23

-The late arrival of spring

-is a sure sign of climate change.

0:25:280:25:32

-But even

-in the depths of the Gobi...

0:25:350:25:38

-..the seasons do eventually change.

0:25:390:25:41

-I'm starting to hear

-the sound of water...

0:25:410:25:45

-..which means things are beginning

-to thaw, so we'd better go, Tuman.

0:25:450:25:50

-Of course, the journey

-is much easier on the way down.

0:25:540:25:58

-.

0:26:030:26:04

-Subtitles

0:26:060:26:06

-Subtitles

-

-Subtitles

0:26:060:26:08

-I'm not sure what I expected from

-venturing to the heart of the Gobi.

0:26:110:26:16

-But the place

-has completely captivated me.

0:26:160:26:20

-It's also surprised me.

0:26:200:26:22

-There is summer and winter

-in this wilderness.

0:26:240:26:28

-When the seasons change,

-it's a sight to behold.

0:26:280:26:32

-But these days, seasons change

-quicker than ever before.

0:26:330:26:38

-Over the past 60 years...

0:26:380:26:41

-..the desert's temperature has risen

-more than two degrees Celsius.

0:26:410:26:46

-The Gobi's wildlife is

-struggling to survive the change.

0:26:470:26:51

-It is especially true

-of one special creature...

0:26:510:26:55

-..and any visitor to the Gobi

-must go in search of it.

0:26:550:26:59

-Among these craggy rocks...

0:27:030:27:05

-..is a creature

-that has adapted perfectly...

0:27:050:27:08

-..to life in a frozen desert.

0:27:080:27:10

-The snow leopard.

0:27:140:27:16

-Years ago, this remarkable creature

-thrived in the Gobi.

0:27:160:27:21

-These days, the snow leopard's

-habitat has changed so much...

0:27:210:27:26

-..and owing to the extent

-it is being hunted...

0:27:260:27:29

-..only 1,000 of the species remain.

0:27:300:27:32

-Seeing a snow leopard in the wild

-is something of a rarity.

0:27:330:27:37

-But one man

-knows exactly where to look.

0:27:370:27:40

-Sunbee Tumursukh is a researcher.

0:27:450:27:48

-Some years ago, whilst working on

-a tagging system for the animals...

0:27:490:27:54

-..Sunbee had the privilege

-of touching a wild snow leopard.

0:27:540:27:59

-I was very excited.

0:28:020:28:04

-It's a dignified creature

-with a long tail and body.

0:28:040:28:09

-I was pleased I had the opportunity

-to touch the snow leopard.

0:28:090:28:15

-Sunbee's work focuses on tracking

-the leopard in the mountains.

0:28:200:28:24

-Usually, only an expert

-would know where to look...

0:28:270:28:31

-..but today the snow

-provides us with a clue.

0:28:320:28:35

-Look what we've found.

-Snow leopard footprints.

0:28:370:28:41

-Better than that,

-they look very fresh...

0:28:410:28:44

-..which means it's in the vicinity.

0:28:450:28:47

-It might even be looking at me now!

0:28:470:28:50

-I feel like Iolo Williams!

0:28:510:28:53

-The next step is to set up a

-hidden camera to take photographs...

0:28:560:29:01

-..of any snow leopard

-that passes by.

0:29:010:29:04

-Sunbee has explained

-that this portion of land...

0:29:060:29:09

-..shows that a leopard

-has been here during the past week.

0:29:090:29:13

-It has scratched the surface of

-the rock and marked its territory.

0:29:140:29:18

-This is the perfect spot

-in which to set up the camera.

0:29:180:29:23

-Over the years, many leopards have

-appeared in Sunbee's photo album.

0:29:240:29:29

-We've been

-concealing cameras since 2008.

0:29:330:29:36

-Over a period of a year, we take an

-average of around 6,000 photographs.

0:29:360:29:42

-The kit must first be tested.

0:29:460:29:48

-Sunbee will be able

-to study the images...

0:29:550:29:58

-..the camera has captured

-and add that information...

0:29:590:30:03

-..to a national database of animals

-that are tracked across the Gobi.

0:30:030:30:08

-Studying the animals

-is very important.

0:30:100:30:14

-By fitting them with collars, you

-can locate the animals' whereabouts.

0:30:140:30:19

-You can also establish their

-territories and how far they wander.

0:30:190:30:23

-Of all the snow leopards...

0:30:230:30:25

-..my favourite is Khasha.

0:30:260:30:29

-She has two young cubs.

0:30:310:30:34

-When the camera takes their

-photograph, it's always interesting.

0:30:370:30:42

-Another machine crucial to

-Sunbee's research is his motorbike.

0:30:500:30:55

-I'm following him...

0:30:570:31:00

-..to observe another

-important facet of his job.

0:31:000:31:04

-Today Sunbee meets a family...

0:31:050:31:07

-..that farms goats

-on the barren slopes of the Gobi.

0:31:070:31:11

-Without the support

-of local farmers...

0:31:120:31:15

-..it'd be difficult for Sunbee to

-protect the leopard in its habitat.

0:31:160:31:20

-Today, the family is concerned.

0:31:200:31:23

-It's rumoured that a predatory

-snow leopard is on the prowl nearby.

0:31:230:31:28

-As the climate gets warmer,

-the desert's ecosystem is changing.

0:31:310:31:35

-The snow leopard has to wander much

-further afield in search of food.

0:31:350:31:40

-Have you seen one recently?

0:31:440:31:46

-About a week ago, in the west...

0:31:500:31:53

-..people saw the footprints

-of a leopard in the snow.

0:31:530:31:56

-Suddenly,

-there is a commotion outside.

0:32:000:32:03

-The goats run for shelter.

0:32:050:32:07

-Has a snow leopard made its move?

0:32:120:32:14

-Sunbee heads towards the commotion.

0:32:200:32:23

-We try to catch him up in the truck.

0:32:230:32:26

-But it is the farmer's daughter

-who knows the landscape best.

0:32:280:32:32

-She discovers

-the bloody traces of the attack.

0:32:330:32:36

-She's shouting at Sunbee because

-he doesn't know the goat is here.

0:32:390:32:44

-Sunbee is on top of

-the opposite mountain.

0:32:440:32:47

-This is the sad outcome.

0:32:510:32:54

-Jahdonna has just explained

-that the goat was pregnant...

0:33:040:33:09

-..which means

-more of a loss for the family.

0:33:090:33:13

-But Sunbee doesn't think

-the snow leopard was responsible.

0:33:160:33:21

-Whatever has killed this goat...

0:33:210:33:25

-..didn't eat it straightaway.

0:33:250:33:27

-It suggests the actions of a wolf

-rather than a snow leopard.

0:33:280:33:32

-The grandfather agrees.

0:33:340:33:36

-A wolf kills about 20...

0:33:390:33:42

-..or even 30 animals at a time.

0:33:420:33:44

-But the snow leopard

-only kills enough to eat.

0:33:440:33:48

-The death is also a costly loss.

0:33:520:33:54

-They can't even sell

-the goat's meat...

0:33:570:33:59

-..since the wolf's saliva

-has poisoned it.

0:34:000:34:03

-The only thing left to do is

-to remove the wool in order to sell.

0:34:050:34:09

-I can't tell you

-how much this stinks.

0:34:150:34:18

-So if it's not the leopard...

0:34:280:34:30

-..that's mainly responsible

-for attacking farm animals...

0:34:300:34:34

-..why are people

-always after its blood?

0:34:340:34:37

-The answer isn't in the mountains

-where these creatures live...

0:34:390:34:43

-..but in one of

-the grandest restaurants...

0:34:440:34:47

-..in the principal town,

-Dalanzadgad.

0:34:470:34:50

-Hunters

-command a fortune for its fur.

0:34:520:34:55

-This is

-how far too many of them end up.

0:34:560:34:59

-The spoils of rich people

-who should know better.

0:35:000:35:03

-There are around 100 snow leopards

-on the ceiling alone.

0:35:050:35:09

-It's a restaurant within a ger.

0:35:100:35:12

-These have all been prevented

-from being smuggled out of Mongolia.

0:35:120:35:17

-It's horrific to see.

0:35:170:35:20

-Better they're here

-than overseas, perhaps.

0:35:220:35:25

-But either way,

-things don't bode well.

0:35:250:35:28

-Am I witnessing the final demise...

0:35:300:35:33

-..of the desert's

-most magnificent creature?

0:35:330:35:37

-.

0:35:380:35:39

-Subtitles

0:35:410:35:41

-Subtitles

-

-Subtitles

0:35:410:35:43

-For centuries, the people of

-the Gobi Desert have been Buddhists.

0:35:490:35:54

-Tsend Auysh is a devout follower

-of the Buddhist religion.

0:35:560:36:00

-Today, I'm in Dalanzadgad,

-the largest town in the south...

0:36:050:36:09

-..to meet Tsend and his family

-on one of the most important days...

0:36:090:36:13

-..in the Buddhist calendar.

0:36:130:36:16

-By now, I know the welcome

-will be the same inside every ger.

0:36:170:36:21

-It's nice and warm here.

-Thank you for the invitation. Hello.

0:36:210:36:25

-Hello, Tsend. Are you alright?

0:36:250:36:27

-After weeks of practice...

0:36:280:36:31

-..I've become accustomed.

0:36:310:36:33

-Camel tea with salt again.

0:36:330:36:35

-There is

-a special atmosphere in this ger.

0:36:380:36:41

-It's an atmosphere which lends

-itself to Tsend Auysh's vocation.

0:36:410:36:45

-I decided to become a monk

-to better myself.

0:36:490:36:52

-And to help the poor

-and those who are suffering.

0:36:530:36:56

-Strangely enough, Tsend Auysh's

-life was mapped out for him...

0:37:000:37:05

-..the minute he was born.

0:37:060:37:08

-While I was giving birth to Tsend,

-my mother was bed bound.

0:37:090:37:13

-As soon as she heard him cry...

0:37:140:37:16

-..she said

-he had the voice of a monk.

0:37:160:37:19

-Some monks

-have a remarkable singing voice.

0:37:190:37:22

-Perhaps she

-did give him her blessing.

0:37:220:37:27

-Perhaps she knew.

0:37:270:37:29

-This prayer book

-has been passed down...

0:37:360:37:39

-..from Tsend's great-great-uncle...

0:37:390:37:42

-..who was killed in 1937

-under Communist oppression.

0:37:420:37:45

-Seeing the family

-taking so much pride in Tsend...

0:37:460:37:49

-..as he prepares this book

-is wonderful.

0:37:500:37:52

-But the oppression

-Tsend's great-uncle endured...

0:37:530:37:58

-..is still fresh in the memory.

0:37:580:38:01

-When Mongolia came under

-Communist rule in the 1920s...

0:38:040:38:08

-..religion was vilified.

0:38:080:38:11

-Every monk was regarded

-as an enemy of the state.

0:38:130:38:17

-30,000 people were executed...

0:38:250:38:27

-..during these savage times...

0:38:270:38:30

-..in Mongolia's history.

0:38:300:38:32

-With the demise

-of the Soviet Union in 1989...

0:38:420:38:46

-..everything changed.

0:38:470:38:49

-Things

-are still continuing to improve.

0:38:500:38:53

-Today, a religious event is being

-celebrated in the Gobi Desert.

0:38:530:38:58

-Tsend is taking part.

0:38:580:39:01

-Since it's a special

-religious festival...

0:39:060:39:09

-..he summons the faithful

-to the temple.

0:39:090:39:12

-I'm responding to the call too.

0:39:200:39:22

-There is

-a special ambience once again.

0:39:360:39:38

-It is intense

-without being at all threatening.

0:39:390:39:42

-So much so that I felt completely

-at home here in the temple.

0:39:440:39:49

-One of the festival's blessings...

0:39:500:39:53

-..is for every prayer to count.

0:39:530:39:56

-One prayer is as good as 100

-and 100 prayers are as good as one.

0:39:580:40:04

-It is also a blessing to take part

-in the outdoor procession.

0:40:040:40:09

-People are currently carrying these

-prayer books around the monastery...

0:40:100:40:16

-..108 times because 108 is

-a special number for Buddhists.

0:40:160:40:21

-Every book must go around...

0:40:210:40:25

-Oh!

0:40:250:40:27

-Thank you.

0:40:290:40:31

-I was about to say that every book

-must be taken around 108 times.

0:40:310:40:36

-As you can see in the background...

0:40:360:40:39

-..the older generation

-is sitting down.

0:40:390:40:42

-They've given their books

-to fitter people like myself.

0:40:420:40:46

-I'd better take them for a walk.

0:40:460:40:48

-But how fit am I?

0:40:480:40:50

-They're heavy.

0:40:580:41:01

-I'm starting to lose count of the

-number of times I've been around.

0:41:030:41:08

-I'm still going.

0:41:080:41:10

-The seats are beginning to look

-very comfortable.

0:41:120:41:16

-My arms are about to fall off.

0:41:170:41:19

-I must give them back

-to the person who gave them to me.

0:41:190:41:23

-Thank you. Good luck.

0:41:230:41:25

-You're very strong. Ta-ra!

0:41:260:41:29

-After witnessing the celebration...

0:41:360:41:39

-..I'm convinced

-the old faith has been revived.

0:41:390:41:43

-These days, the young are more

-religious than the older generation.

0:41:480:41:53

-They respect the old rituals...

0:41:530:41:55

-..and call on the monks

-to pray for them.

0:41:560:41:59

-Money pours in

-to the temples' coffers.

0:42:040:42:08

-Following Buddha is something

-completely contemporary.

0:42:080:42:13

-MOBILE PHONE RINGS

0:42:130:42:16

-But the old and the new don't

-always co-exist so well in the Gobi.

0:42:160:42:21

-Today, the majority of the desert's

-residents live in large towns.

0:42:230:42:28

-As more and more flock to the towns

-from the villages...

0:42:290:42:32

-..there is a danger

-that the old customs will die out.

0:42:330:42:36

-21st century industry...

0:42:370:42:39

-..is rapidly changing the Gobi...

0:42:400:42:42

-..but the people are determined

-to retain the old traditions.

0:42:420:42:47

-Welcome to the festival

-that celebrates the camel.

0:42:470:42:50

-Although the number of camels

-in the Gobi is in decline...

0:42:540:42:58

-..everybody who attends

-this festival dotes on the animal.

0:42:590:43:03

-This man just might be

-the camel's biggest fan.

0:43:050:43:08

-I'm sure he makes perfect sense!

0:43:130:43:17

-But I have no idea what he's saying!

0:43:210:43:23

-Though that fact

-doesn't seem to deter him!

0:43:290:43:32

-At last the rodeo begins.

0:43:360:43:39

-It's easier

-to understand the commentary.

0:43:390:43:42

-I think he's telling me that this is

-one of the festival's highlights.

0:43:490:43:54

-It's crazy because

-they have to lasso the camels...

0:43:550:43:58

-..and some of them

-are going bonkers.

0:43:580:44:01

-I'd say these two are having fun

-because they reek of alcohol!

0:44:010:44:06

-Are you enjoying yourself?

-Good. Yay!

0:44:060:44:09

-Once the camels have been tamed...

0:44:110:44:14

-..the champions must load them.

0:44:140:44:17

-Now I understand how people move

-their ger from one place to another.

0:44:200:44:25

-Believe it or not,

-one of the winners...

0:44:280:44:31

-..is Aidee,

-patriarch of the family...

0:44:310:44:34

-..I lived with

-at the beginning of my journey.

0:44:340:44:38

-Yes, it's a small world,

-even in the Gobi!

0:44:380:44:42

-Aidee is also one of

-the festival's main promoters.

0:44:450:44:49

-It's an opportunity to showcase

-all the camel's skills...

0:44:500:44:54

-..and safeguard its future.

0:44:540:44:56

-I'm doing my best to protect the

-future of every camel in the Gobi...

0:45:020:45:06

-..whether they are used to race

-or to transport people.

0:45:070:45:11

-Everybody is braced for a dramatic

-conclusion - the big race.

0:45:160:45:20

-It's a feat

-galloping camels across the snow.

0:45:250:45:29

-It's a dangerous task,

-yet every jockey goes all out...

0:45:320:45:37

-..to win the festival's main prize.

0:45:370:45:40

-I suppose you could call it

-the Ffos Las of the Gobi.

0:45:430:45:47

-It's a closely-fought race

-to the finish.

0:45:480:45:51

-But there can only be one winner.

0:45:520:45:55

-The camel

-is in decline in the Gobi...

0:46:000:46:02

-..so festivals like this are vital.

0:46:020:46:05

-But it's ironic that despite

-the importance of these festivals...

0:46:050:46:10

-..the winning prize is a motorbike.

0:46:100:46:13

-For the winning camel -

-a lift home on the back of a truck.

0:46:210:46:25

-I've come to the Gobi Desert during

-a fateful chapter in its history.

0:46:330:46:38

-Mining is swiftly transforming

-its fortune.

0:46:410:46:44

-The young may be benefiting,

-but they must spare a thought...

0:46:440:46:49

-..for what they might also lose.

0:46:490:46:51

-What a journey it has been

-but it's finally at an end.

0:46:550:46:58

-Despite the extreme climate...

0:46:580:47:01

-..the inhabitants

-are strong and resilient...

0:47:010:47:05

-..and proud of their land

-and their traditions.

0:47:050:47:09

-These are people who are battling

-the elements on a daily basis...

0:47:100:47:14

-..but know how to survive.

0:47:150:47:17

-It has left a mark

-the size of the Gobi Desert...

0:47:170:47:20

-..on this Welsh heart of mine.

0:47:200:47:22

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:48:040:48:06

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0:48:060:48:07

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