Pennod 1 Yr Arfordir


Pennod 1

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-There's no better way of

-viewing the coastline than by air.

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-During this series

-of Arfordir Cymru...

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-..we'll be exploring the place

-names, beaches and headlands...

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-..along the coast

-of Wales's largest island.

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-Looking down on the landscape,

-it's easy to see...

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-..why Goronwy Owen

-referred to this island as...

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-.."The abundant Mon

-with its wealth of beaches."

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-The meaning of place names along

-the Welsh coastline are a secret.

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-The Welsh "Mon" is an archaic name,

-originating from the pre-Celtic era.

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-Its meaning has been lost

-in the mists of time.

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-It's far easier to explain

-the derivation of "Anglesey"...

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-..which is a combination

-of the first name, Ongull, and ey...

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-..which denotes an island,

-like Orkney and Bardsey.

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-The name means Ongull's Island,

-but it's not known who Ongull was.

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-At times, searching for derivations

-feels like chasing shadows.

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-That is the aim of this series.

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-We'll explore the Anglesey coast,

-studying the place names...

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-..of coves, beaches, rocks,

-inlets and even rock pools.

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-We'll unlock the island's history

-by exploring the names...

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-..that are under threat.

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-I'll meet local people

-who inhabit the coastline...

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-..and record these names

-before they disappear.

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-I'll travel by land, sea and air...

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-..and I'll also

-be getting my hands dirty.

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-Quite literally.

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-This programme

-takes us along the eastern coast...

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-..from Puffin Island to Dulas Island

-and further north to Dulas Bay.

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-Penmon,

-at the furthest tip of Anglesey...

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-..is an easy name to explain.

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-It means the tip of Anglesey.

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-Certain ships have left their mark

-on place names.

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-Tourism and immigration are

-the biggest influences nowadays...

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-..as language continues to evolve

-due to the impact of culture...

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-..industry

-and different nationalities.

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-750 names have been recorded

-along the Anglesey coastline.

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-But there are hundreds of names that

-are known only by word of mouth.

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-Those words

-are slowly disappearing.

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-It's hard not to feel sad

-when place names vanish...

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-..or get lost in translation.

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-Nothing is ever black and white.

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-The English name for Traeth Coch

-is Red Wharf.

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-The earliest record of it

-is Red Wharth, which means beach.

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-Although the Welsh and English

-meanings of places differ...

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-..this is a direct translation from

-the original Welsh name for it.

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-Whilst searching for

-the original place names...

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-..I must consult old documents.

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-One important source is Lewis

-Morris's 18th century sea charts.

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-I've come to learn more from

-Robin Evans, a maritime historian.

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-There's a slight problem

-in that the names of fields...

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-..and farm holdings that appear

-in landowners' documents...

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-..differ from their coastal names.

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-Lewis Morris's work is invaluable

-in terms of detailing the era.

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-We must remember that recording

-place names wasn't his intention...

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-..although it's advantageous for us.

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-In terms of the era in which

-he lived, maps were inaccurate.

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-He applied for funding from

-the Admiralty but was turned down.

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-In the case of Anglesey names,

-he took it upon himself...

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-..to try and ensure...

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-..that he presented some kind of map

-of the entire coast...

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-..which would be useful for sailors.

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-We regard him as a literary man

-and a scribe...

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-..but perhaps many are unaware of

-his major contribution in this area.

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-In fact, we could even argue

-that we, as a nation...

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-..have forgotten about

-his prowess as a cartographer.

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-Those whose interests lie

-in the world of maps...

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-..believe he is one of the earliest

-and most important cartographers...

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-..in spite of being an amateur.

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-He initially encountered problems

-because he didn't have a boat.

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-I don't know

-how he overcame that problem.

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-Much of his mapping

-was done on land.

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-He had to rely on local residents

-for information, to a large extent.

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-It is very detailed

-and he warns of hidden depths...

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-..of treacherous waters

-and the nature of the currents.

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-Any important information

-on the maps is clearly visible.

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-There must be markers on land

-for sailors to know their location.

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-Moorings and channels...

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-..must also be noted.

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-There are amusing place names

-on this map of Red Wharf.

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-We're more or less here,

-at Porth Llongdy...

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-..the archaic name that was recorded

-before it was known as Red Wharf.

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-There's a place called Uffern

-(Hell) on the way to Pentraeth.

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-I'm not suggesting a thing!

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-Y Gedowrach is an interesting name.

-It's located beneath Arthur's Table.

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-It's an abbreviation of a more

-unsavoury name - Witch's Pubes.

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-The name can also mean

-a type of mushroom...

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-..and a very poisonous plant

-like deadly nightshade.

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-I wonder if the name...

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-..was linked to the fact there were

-witches here in Llanddona.

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-I asked around but drew a blank.

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-I wonder if they used

-deadly nightshade in some way?

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-I've no idea

-why Lewis Morris has noted it.

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-It shows

-the accuracy of his mapping too.

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-It serves

-as an important historical document.

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-As historians,

-we can refer to these maps...

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-..for various information

-or clues about certain things.

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-In some places, he explains

-the names' derivations...

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-..although they are quite rare.

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-What we have here...

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-..in terms of place names, are names

-the native dwellers would've used...

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-..rather than the visitors.

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-He claims he's the first person

-to record the names accurately.

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-I think perhaps

-he's being self-important...

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-..since he was the only one

-who undertook the task.

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-Benllech and Moelfre are villages

-situated on the eastern coast.

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-Benllech is known

-for its extensive sandy beach.

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-Penllech is the name given to a rock

-placed on top of a burial chamber...

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-..as is evident from this example.

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-A tomb similar to this

-also stood in Benllech.

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-It was that hefty rock...

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-..which gave the village its name.

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-Three miles north is

-the maritime village of Moelfre...

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-..which is a tourist trap in summer.

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-But in adverse weather,

-it's easy to see...

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-..how it's name was derived

-from Moel (Barren) and Bre (Hill).

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-Barren Hill.

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-Many names

-are derived from past customs.

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-Ponc Sincrig is the local name given

-for this tump near Moelfre beach.

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-Singrig, derived from Eisingrig...

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-..is a common name with dozens

-of examples around Wales.

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-Ian, you work for

-the Anglesey County Council Museum.

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-That tray looks very unusual.

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-What exactly is it?

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-This is a tool used to separate

-the wheat from the chaff.

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-In the flour-making process?

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-Yes, to make flour.

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-You put the grain in it,

-toss it into the air...

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-..and the wind

-blew the chaff to one side.

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-The chaff is the waste.

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-The husks, insects and dust -

-all the things you want to discard.

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-Chaff one side, wheat on the other.

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-Why would that process

-be associated with this area?

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-The hill is known locally

-as Allt Ffatri.

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-At one time, there was a woollen

-mill and a flour mill here...

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-..both making use

-of the river and the stream.

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-They used a water wheel

-to grind the wheat.

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-After separating the wheat,

-they'd take it to the machine...

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-..and grind it into flour.

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-..and grind it into flour.

-

-They would've used that locally?

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-Yes, these would've been used up

-until the Industrial Revolution...

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-..when they were developing mills

-to use machinery...

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-..instead of manual labour.

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-Is this the only tool

-they would've used?

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-They also used a canvas,

-similar to a large sheet...

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-..which two people handled.

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-So, very simply, they would

-toss the wheat into the air...

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-..to separate

-the wheat from the chaff.

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-Have you done this before?

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-No, never.

-There are supermarkets nowadays!

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-How high are you meant to throw it?

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-Let's find out.

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-A word of warning before we start.

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-The wind in this area...

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-..usually blows

-in that direction into the sea...

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-..but today, it's blowing inwards

-from the sea.

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-I'm not sure where it will end up.

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-Shall we do it

-on the count of three?

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-One, two, three.

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-Do you think

-they wore protective glasses?

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-Yes.

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-Yes.

-

-So the chaff is going one way...

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-Look! Careful!

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-The wheat falls back into the sack.

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-Is that it, Ian?

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-Almost.

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-Yes, it's clean.

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-Yes, it's clean.

-

-Perfect.

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-It's ready to make flour.

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-So the chaff falls to the floor.

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-Eisingrig is a combination

-of eisin (chaff) and crig (tump).

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-So, a tump where

-mounds of chaff were left behind.

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-Ponc Sincrig.

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-Right, let's go and make some flour.

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-.

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-Subtitles

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-Subtitles

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-In this series...

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-..we discover the secrets behind

-the names of rocks and beaches...

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-..along the 125 miles

-of the Anglesey coastline.

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-Coastal names have been derived

-from many influences over the years.

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-Shipwrecks were a prominent factor.

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-The village of Moelfre

-is famous for its lifeboat.

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-Kiwi is the latest addition.

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-It's 16 metres long

-and travels at a speed of 25 knots.

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-It's equipped

-with all the latest safety features.

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-I'm joining the crew...

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-..as they put the new boat

-through its paces.

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-The people who founded

-the Moelfre RNLI back in 1830...

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-..wouldn't believe

-the sheer power of this new boat.

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-It's remarkable.

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-The lifeboat has played an important

-role in the region's history.

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-If the wind blows in a northerly

-direction, it becomes treacherous.

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-Some of the ships that have

-run aground over the centuries...

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-..have left their names

-along the coast.

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-There is no official name for

-this inlet behind me on any map...

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-..but there were two names

-given to it locally...

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-..the oldest of which

-was Porth Llestar.

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-Llestar

-is an archaic Welsh word for ship.

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-Just as a vessel refers to a ship

-and a piece of pottery in English...

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-..the same is true in Welsh.

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-Porth Jewess

-is a more recent name for it.

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-We're certain

-it takes its name from a ship.

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-Although I asked around,

-no-one knew the full story.

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-After a little research...

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-..I found a record

-of a small ship called Jewess...

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-..that was on its way from Liverpool

-to Ireland when it sunk in 1907.

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-There were five crewmen on board

-and each of them survived.

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-The ship ran aground here.

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-It's obvious

-from official records...

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-..that efforts

-had been made to rescue it.

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-"The starboard side of bottom

-has been chaffed almost out.

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-"Her rudders washed off.

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-"The vessel's full of water and it

-is feared she will become a wreck.

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-"Prompt measures should be taken

-as if the wind veers to the north...

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-"..the vessel would hold together

-but a very short time."

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-We don't know if efforts to

-save the Jewess were successful...

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-..or did she leave more than just

-her name on this area of the coast?

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-It doesn't matter, since

-Porth Llestar and Porth Jewess...

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-..have been replaced

-by the name of another ship...

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-..that ran aground

-in the exact same spot.

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-It is on these rocks

-that the Hindlea was wrecked.

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-On 23 October 1959,

-it was sheltering in Dulas Bay...

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-..from

-the strong south-easterly winds.

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-A few days later, the wind changed

-to a northerly direction.

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-The Hindlea was tossed and spun

-with her back to shore...

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-..in gale-force winds that,

-at times, reached more than 100mph.

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-The Coast Guard was alerted, but the

-Moelfre lifeboat was unavailable.

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-In its place

-came the Edmond and Mary Robinson...

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-..an old lifeboat

-that had seen much better days.

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-By the time the lifeboat arrived...

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-..the Hindlea

-was a mere 200 yards from land.

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-The lifeboat

-approached it numerous times...

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-..sometimes crashing against it.

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-The lifeboat was sometimes higher,

-sometimes lower than the ship.

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-But after a little perseverance,

-they came level with one another...

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-..and each of the Hindlea crewmen...

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-..jumped onto the lifeboat

-and eight lives were spared.

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-What we have, therefore,

-is a memorial to three shipwrecks.

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-Porth Llestar commemorates

-the wreck of an anonymous ship.

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-Porth Jewess

-commemorates the Jewess in 1907.

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-But these days, the word "porth"

-has disappeared too.

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-It's known quite simply

-as the Hindlea...

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-..a ship which left behind

-its skeleton and name.

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-Every ship

-that has come to shore...

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-..has replaced

-the name of the ship before it.

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-Naming coastal areas after ships

-is commonplace.

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-There are many examples in Wales

-and further afield.

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-This memorial stone

-commemorates the 450 people...

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-..who lost their lives when the

-Royal Charter ran aground in 1859.

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-Porth Helaeth

-is the name given to the beach.

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-But that name has since been

-replaced by Royal Charter Beach.

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-Further north, we come face to face

-with another piece of history.

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-It's time for us to step into a ship

-and step back in time.

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-This cove behind me...

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-..which isn't listed on official

-maps, is called Porth Cwrwg.

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-"Cwrwg" lends its name

-to other places on Anglesey.

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-I think I'm right in saying...

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-..that it doesn't happen

-elsewhere on the Welsh coast.

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-Cwrwg (coracle) conjures up images

-of little saucers floating.

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-But this is a sea coracle.

-Right, girls!

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-One! Two!

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-One! Two!

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-This is the crew.

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-Have you ever rowed a cow before?

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-You call the rhythm, Buddug.

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-You call the rhythm, Buddug.

-

-One!

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-Porth Cwrwg echoes a time...

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-..when boats like these

-were common along the coast.

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-It's a simple construction made from

-willow basketweave and cowhide.

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-You live on a farm, Manon.

-What breed of cattle has been used?

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-Look at the colour of their fur.

-This is Limousin.

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-And Friesian at the front.

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-No, it's Charolais, not Limousin.

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-What did I say, Friesian?

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-What did I say, Friesian?

-

-They're black and white.

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-There's money to be made

-from their hide.

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-Elliw could start

-her own coracle business.

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-She'd persuade her father.

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-You'd weave cows together!

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-Though coracles are still used

-in Northern Ireland...

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-..very little is known about

-the shape of ancient coracles...

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-..since they were made from

-organic materials which decayed.

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-Reference is made to them

-in the Mabinogion.

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-Julius Caesar refers to them

-sailing the Atlantic.

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-They certainly represent

-the earliest forms of boat building.

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-Drawings of them have been found

-in caves from the Mesolithic Era...

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-..8,000 years ago.

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-If we lose names like Porth Cwrwg...

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-..we will also lose

-valuable evidence...

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-..about our ancient way of life.

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-As someone who's used to

-messing around with boats...

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-..I've been looking forward

-to this outing.

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-I have to say...

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-..it's long and narrow

-and feels a little unstable...

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-..so I'm afraid of capsizing, but

-the girls are giving it some welly.

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-It's fast enough. Off we go!

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-Further along, past Lligwy Beach

-and its ancient fishing trap...

0:21:330:21:39

-..are some of the hidden wonders

-of the coastline.

0:21:390:21:43

-Not everyone is privy

-to the beauty of Traeth Yr Ora.

0:21:430:21:46

-The derivation of its name

-is still a mystery.

0:21:460:21:50

-Thomas Roberts, the authority

-on Anglesey's place names...

0:21:500:21:54

-..suggests

-it was the name of a ship.

0:21:540:21:56

-Aurora is a common name

-for a ship...

0:21:570:22:00

-..but we've failed to find

-any evidence of a shipwreck here.

0:22:000:22:05

-The name,

-just as the beach itself...

0:22:050:22:07

-..remains a secret.

0:22:080:22:10

-Another secret nestling

-in Dulas Bay is Ynys Fechan...

0:22:160:22:20

-..which is only visible in low tide.

0:22:200:22:22

-No, I'm not walking on water...

0:22:250:22:27

-..I'm standing on Prisoners' Island.

0:22:280:22:31

-No-one knows

-for certain its origin...

0:22:310:22:33

-..but it's believed

-that in olden days...

0:22:340:22:37

-..they shackled criminals

-to this rock beneath me.

0:22:370:22:40

-They waited for the tide to rise,

-as it's doing now...

0:22:410:22:44

-..until it reached

-their chests and their necks...

0:22:450:22:48

-..until it covered

-their heads and drowned them.

0:22:480:22:53

-I can't substantiate that story...

0:22:530:22:55

-..but one thing's for sure, I don't

-want to hang around here too long!

0:22:560:23:00

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:23:280:23:30

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0:23:300:23:31

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