Pennod 2 Yr Arfordir


Pennod 2

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-This series guides you

-along the Anglesey coast...

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-..exploring the names

-of beaches, headlands and rocks.

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-We discover how the names

-hold the key to our history.

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-We'll also record the names of those

-places known only by word of mouth.

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-Names change and evolve.

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-Nothing is ever stable

-where the land meets the sea.

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-In the words of Rolant o Fon...

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-.."The sea breaks into silver

-threads on a cold bed of rocks."

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-In this programme, we leave

-the tranquillity of Dulas Bay...

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-..and head to the post-industrial

-town of Amlwch.

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-At the peak of the sailboat era...

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-..there were so many of them

-in Dulas Bay...

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-..you could run across the bay from

-boat to boat without getting wet.

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-Boats may have changed with time but

-the sea's nature remains unchanged.

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-This area has seen many shipwrecks

-over the centuries...

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-..and later we'll visit a harbour...

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-..where the effect of that has left

-its mark on coastal place names.

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-Prominent people

-have also left their mark here.

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-We're near the site

-where Llys Dulas mansion once stood.

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-An opulent Gothic structure

-that was built in 1856.

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-The old mansion has been replaced

-by a brand new structure.

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-Beneath the mansion

-is a famous rock.

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-Carreg Y Ledi

-overlooks a portion of coastline...

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-..which, at high tide, resembles

-a sunken natural swimming pool.

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-Stairs have been

-carved into the stone...

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-..along with an iron handrail.

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-It was to help

-the residents of Llys Dulas...

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-..climb in and out

-of the sea whilst swimming.

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-Carreg Y Ledi

-is dedicated to Lady Dinorben...

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-..who lived at Llys Dulas

-in the 19th century.

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-She must've been

-a woman of great importance...

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-..to have had part of the coastline

-adapted especially for her.

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-Not everyone was lucky enough to

-spend time sunbathing and swimming.

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-In poorer times, crab fishing

-was an important pursuit.

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-A stone's throw from Carreg Y Ledi

-is Trwyn Cwmrwd...

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-..where Owie Jones

-has spent his life crab fishing.

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-He's given every crab hole a name

-and has a few amusing expressions.

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-When there are shoots in the hollows

-there'll be crabs in the holes.

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-From March to April,

-the corn seeds are sown.

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-You're talking about corn shoots?

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-You're talking about corn shoots?

-

-Yes, that's right.

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-When there are shoots in the hollows

-there'll be crabs in the holes.

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-Let's go and search for the crabs.

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-Yes, let's go over there.

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-You must know every nook and cranny.

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-You must know every nook and cranny.

-

-I've spent enough time here.

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-You've even named these crab holes.

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-This is Twll Tan Jos

-and that's Twll Defi Jos over there.

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-Why have you personalized the names?

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-Did the men claim them as their own?

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-Did the men claim them as their own?

-

-They must've caught a good yield.

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-The crab catchers of the past

-may have been commemorated...

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-..but I'm having no such luck,

-so I'll leave it to the master.

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-Look!

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-It's a little one. It's a female.

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-Argh, it's bitten me!

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-I had no idea what I was doing...

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-..but Owie persevered

-in Tyllau Clytiau Gleision...

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-..Tyllau'r Gwely, Twll Hugh Phipps

-and Twll Richard Castle.

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-His perseverance

-paid off in the end.

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-That's a good one, Owie.

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-Yes, this is a great one.

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-Is it male or female?

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-Is it male or female?

-

-Male.

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-That'll do for a hearty meal.

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-Here we go,

-the fruits of our labour.

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-This is one for the table.

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-These crab holes

-and their names might be old...

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-..but they still provide

-a good yield.

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-I'll put it in the sack

-like a good boy, shall I?

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-Come on, Owie,

-let's go and put it in the saucepan.

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-We'll get some good ones here.

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-Let's look for more.

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-A stone's throw away, in the heart

-of the bay, is Dulas Island...

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-..a prominent feature

-of the coastline.

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-The Llys Dulas family left its mark

-here in the form of this tower...

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-..erected by

-Colonel James Hughes in 1824...

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-..to provide shelter

-for ships that came ashore.

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-I doubt

-those who were stranded here...

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-..received a warmer welcome

-than this from the seagulls!

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-The tower was equipped

-with firewood, blankets...

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-..matches and food.

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-But, according to records

-and hearsay...

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-..locals rowed to the island, swiped

-the contents and left it bare.

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-The common name for rocks that

-rise to the surface in mid-tide...

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-..is "carreg hanner trai,"

-which can be treacherous.

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-Before GPS, they were very useful

-for warning sailors where to avoid.

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-When the sea

-was a source of sustenance...

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-..people used boats to lower lobster

-cages and nets into the sea...

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-..so every nook and cranny

-needed to be accounted for...

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-..to focus on the area in detail.

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-But since we're now using the sea

-for leisure pursuits...

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-..we don't need such details.

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-These names are slowly disappearing.

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-A plethora of them have

-never been officially documented.

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-The next peninsula

-we're approaching is a good example.

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-Halfway between Dulas and Amlwch...

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-..are the most dangerous

-of Anglesey's headlands.

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-This is Lynas Point.

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-The sea can be very turbulent

-around the peninsula.

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-A lighthouse of some sort

-has stood here since 1779.

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-A strong tide surrounds Lynas Point.

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-This is the location

-of two important rocks for sailors.

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-Cyllell Lanw and Cyllell Drai.

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-The current encircles Anglesey like

-clockwork when the tide comes in.

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-That's when the tide

-hits Cyllell Lanw.

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-When the tide goes out in the other

-direction, it hits Cyllell Drai.

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-But it's not only the names

-found on maps and charts that exist.

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-Names have been coined

-by local people.

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-By speaking to the residents

-of Llaneilian, I was surprised...

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-..by the wealth

-and number of names available.

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-When I speak to people,

-I record every conversation...

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-..so that I have an aural record

-of each name to avoid any mistakes.

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-People have been kind enough

-to let me borrow personal maps...

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-..that they've drawn themselves

-of their locality...

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-..with the names

-of beaches, headlands and rocks.

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-I'm trying to collate

-all that information.

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-In some places, there are

-so many word-of-mouth names...

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-..I've had to draw my own map.

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-On this map of Porth Eilian, only

-two miles of coastline exists...

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-..but there are more

-than 40 names on the chart.

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-This map is a collection

-of names found on maps...

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-..as well as names given to me

-by Rolant Williams...

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-..who's lived here all his life.

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-Through plotting these names

-on a map...

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-..it's possible to see

-how many of them there are.

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-Many of them have

-never been officially documented.

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-Bedwyr Lewis Jones is known

-for his interest in place names.

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-I came across something by him...

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-..in a book about the Anglesey

-National Eisteddfod in 1983.

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-This is what he has to say

-about place names.

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-There's no better way

-of expressing it.

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-"Once the stability

-has been ruined...

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-"..their usage declines.

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-"New, foreign names replace them...

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-"..along with charts for sailors

-and guidebooks for climbers.

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-"The old names are lost forever.

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-"By losing them, we lose our grip

-on our native territory.

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-"We also lose important evidence

-about our old way of life.

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-"We'll become strangers

-in our own land."

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-.

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-Subtitles

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-Subtitles

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-Our search for the derivation

-of Anglesey's place names continues.

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-We head towards Amlwch,

-past Safn Ci...

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-..a name referring to the shape

-of a dog with an open mouth.

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-Further on, we pass by a portion

-of headland known as Llam Carw.

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-I've tried in vain

-to find an explanation...

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-..for the name, Llam Carw...

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-..but I came across an article...

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-..in a community paper

-called Yr Arwydd...

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-..from September 1989.

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-The article mentions Anglesey's

-annual deer hunt which took place...

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-..from 1850 onwards.

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-It refers to a deer

-with a very unusual name. Majuba.

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-It was driven out of Rhos Goch,

-which is seven miles away.

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-Hearsay suggests Majuba ran all

-the way from Rhos Goch to here...

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-..jumped into the sea

-and swam to Amlwch...

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-..to try and escape.

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-The name, Llam Carw, might be

-associated with the deer hunt...

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-..but it doesn't

-specifically refer to this deer.

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-Majuba fled in 1903...

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-..but the name is included

-on the Ordnance Survey map of 1830.

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-Beneath the peninsula

-is this cave called Ogo Llam Carw.

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-Traces of copper

-can be seen clearly...

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-..in the grooves of these rocks.

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-This mineral

-transformed Amlwch's history...

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-..from the 18th century onwards.

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-When Lewis Morris

-was compiling charts in the 1740s...

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-..he deemed Amlwch

-too insignificant to map in detail.

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-20 years later, copper was

-rediscovered in Parys mountain...

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-..and Amlwch was transformed.

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-In its heyday, Amlwch port served

-the world's largest copper mines.

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-Amlwch grew

-from being a fishing port...

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-..to a boat-building centre.

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-Countless industries flourished

-as a result and the population grew.

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-People came from far and wide.

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-Amlwch harbour is quieter nowadays.

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-Numerous fishing boats

-and pleasure boats are moored here.

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-The names of some of the coves...

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-..allude to a very different past.

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-Peter Williams has lived

-and fished here all his life.

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-He's one of the last to know how

-to make a traditional lobster cage.

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-I met him in the hope of collecting

-more original place names.

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-I'd like to take a detailed look

-at this part of the coast.

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-We called it Ynys Meri Jac

-but I don't know who she was.

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-Was she a fisherman's lover?

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-Was she a fisherman's lover?

-

-She might well have been!

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-Who knows what went on there!

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-Fishermen used to fish

-from the shore...

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-..so it provided a great location.

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-Who would have used this name?

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-Who would have used this name?

-

-It's still used.

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-We used to call that one

-Ynys Joe Woodreef.

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-Joe Woodreef

-had gone crab fishing one day...

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-..and put his hand into a hole

-and the crab clung onto it.

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-He apparently said,

-"Come on, crab, let me go...

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-"..or we'll both drown here."

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-The tide was coming in,

-so the story goes.

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-We come across Porth Llechrog

-in that direction.

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-And there's Dakota Island.

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-The Dakota was the fastest ship

-in the world at the time.

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-She was the Blue Ribband

-of the Atlantic at one time.

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-But she didn't last very long.

-She was a voodoo ship.

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-Something would

-regularly break or blow up.

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-They never made

-much money out of her.

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-She was out at sea in thick fog.

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-It was the wrong time

-for her helm to break.

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-She missed the island of Amlwch...

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-..and headed to that island which

-is named Dakota Island after her.

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-Was the rock

-called something else beforehand?

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-I think it was called Ynys Costog.

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-As you veer towards Amlwch...

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-..were there names

-for all these different parts here?

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-Or were they unnamed?

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-Trwyn Penwaig isn't there any more.

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-The break has been built

-on top of it.

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-It was popular for herring fishing.

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-It was popular for herring fishing.

-

-The fishing boats...

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-..would gather the nets.

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-The tide

-helped them bring the fish ashore...

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-..so that they could be salted

-and packaged before they rotted.

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-So when the tide's out,

-you can reach here?

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-Yes, that's where the name,

-Trwyn Penwaig, is derived from.

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-My father told me the boats

-were laden with so much herring...

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-..they had to tread carefully

-to avoid capsizing the boat.

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-There were large mounds of herring

-on board these boats.

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-The men smelt of fish

-for a fortnight afterwards!

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-My grandmother

-used to complain about that.

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-I've collected

-a number of names from Peter.

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-Some refer to people,

-others to industry...

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-..and an intrepid adventure.

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-This is the dock

-where ships were repaired.

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-The dock was built in a crevice

-called Porth Cwch Y Brenin.

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-Aled Eames,

-the maritime historian...

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-..suggests the authorities' ship

-was moored here to combat smuggling.

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-Smuggling was rife in the area

-at the end of the 17th century.

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-The battle between the smugglers

-and the state was fierce...

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-..and the battlefield

-was the open sea.

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-There's a lot of romance

-associated with smuggling...

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-..in folklore and fiction.

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-People's interest in smuggling...

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-..are reflected in these

-cigarette cards from the 1930s.

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-There were 50 of them to collect...

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-..but the two which are of interest

-to us are The Surprise...

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-..showing the small boat

-belonging to the Revenue...

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-..which was used to chase smugglers

-around coves and inlets.

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-And then there's this,

-the Revenue Cutter...

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-..which was a much larger ship

-at sea.

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-From looking

-at Porth Cwch Y Brenin...

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-..it's much wider now

-than it would've been years ago.

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-I assume the smaller boat

-would've been moored here...

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-..and the Revenue's larger,

-armed-and-dangerous boat...

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-..would be out on the open sea.

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-I'm on board the Olga...

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-..to meet someone

-with an avid interest in smuggling.

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-He also looks the part. Twm Elias.

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-If the Revenue had to acquire

-large vessels like this...

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-..smuggling must've been

-a huge problem long ago.

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-It certainly was for the Crown.

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-A quarter of the Crown's

-possible revenue from tolls...

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-..was lost due to smuggling.

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-What steps did they take?

-We know they acquired bigger ships.

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-There were Coast Guards on land

-keeping watch on shore...

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-..and the Revenue's cutters

-patrolled the waters...

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-..and different ports.

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-They were independent bodies that

-were commissioned and licensed...

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-..to chase smugglers.

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-They were entitled to half the cargo

-and the selling price of the boats.

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-The Crown

-claimed half the cargo value...

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-..and half

-the selling price of the boat.

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-The company that owned the cutter

-would get a percentage...

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-..but it was the Crown

-that claimed the highest percentage.

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-The term "a king's share"

-comes from the smugglers' age.

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-What led to this situation?

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-Considering smuggling was rife...

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-..and a quarter of

-the Crown's revenue was lost...

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-..what prompted the smuggling trade?

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-Back then, there was

-no such thing as income tax...

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-..so the Crown levied tolls

-on all kinds of things.

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-Because goods were heavily taxed...

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-..people wanted things cheaper.

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-Everyone loves a bargain!

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-The nobility still wanted

-their brandies, tobacco...

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-..tea and silks...

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-..while ordinary folk wanted salt.

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-A very heavy toll

-was levied on salt.

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-Before the advent of refrigerators

-like we have today...

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-.it was the only way to preserve

-bacon throughout winter...

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-..salting herring on the coast

-and butter throughout winter.

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-Salt was essential.

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-It was available in Ireland for

-a penny a pound in the 18th century.

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-It was four pence a pound here

-in Wales because of the toll.

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-So the men would sail to Ireland,

-buy the salt for a penny a pound...

0:21:180:21:23

-..sail back with it illegally...

0:21:230:21:27

-..and then sell it for two pence

-a pound, making 100% profit.

0:21:270:21:31

-It was still

-half its original price.

0:21:310:21:33

-The ordinary folk wanted salt

-and the nobility wanted spirits.

0:21:340:21:39

-So the entire community

-was going to benefit locally.

0:21:390:21:44

-Is all this smuggling history and

-names like Porth Cwch Y Brenin....

0:21:440:21:49

-..part of our heritage

-that has been ignored?

0:21:490:21:52

-Most certainly.

0:21:520:21:54

-Smuggling

-is part of Cornwall's heritage.

0:21:550:21:58

-They have exhibitions

-and museums dedicated to it.

0:21:580:22:02

-The history generates a great deal

-of revenue from tourism.

0:22:020:22:07

-But here in Wales...

0:22:070:22:09

-..only a few articles

-and a couple of books...

0:22:090:22:14

-..have been published

-on the subject.

0:22:140:22:17

-I think historians in Wales...

0:22:170:22:19

-..have been

-far too respectable in their field.

0:22:190:22:23

-They've ignored the fact that there

-were criminals in our history...

0:22:230:22:28

-..though they

-were fighting for social justice.

0:22:280:22:32

-It's remarkable how many place names

-along the coast...

0:22:350:22:39

-..derive from historical events.

0:22:390:22:42

-By allowing the name,

-Porth Cwch Y Brenin, to disappear...

0:22:420:22:46

-..we lose our understanding...

0:22:460:22:48

-..of the connection between Amlwch

-and the golden era of smuggling.

0:22:480:22:52

-If these names are lost...

0:22:520:22:54

-..there's a real risk

-of us losing sight...

0:22:550:22:58

-..of where

-we've come from as a nation.

0:22:580:23:01

-If we want to keep them, we must

-document them, retain them...

0:23:010:23:05

-..share them,

-and more importantly...

0:23:050:23:08

-..we must hand them over

-to the next generation.

0:23:080:23:13

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:23:280:23:30

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0:23:300:23:31

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