Pennod 3 Yr Arfordir


Pennod 3

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-The secrets of our history...

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-..are hidden in the place names

-that surround us.

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-I'm taking a tour of Anglesey...

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-..studying names, collecting them

-and recording them for posterity.

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-We're on the trail of place names

-on the northern coast of Anglesey...

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-..from Porth Llechog

-to Porth Swtan.

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-It's a journey that will take us

-past old and new industries...

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-..before reaching a special place

-known locally as the Wild Country.

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-The local name given to the rock

-I've just dived from...

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-..is Carreg Bob Morgan.

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-Personal names given

-to coastal areas are commonplace.

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-Bob Morgan was a retired sailor

-who became a barber in Amlwch.

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-He dived that many times

-from this rock...

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-..he became hard of hearing

-as a result.

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-Although he died many decades ago...

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-..his name has been immortalized

-in this rock.

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-We're in Porth Llechog - Porth

-meaning bay, in this context...

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-..and Llechog meaning rocky terrain.

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-This place is known to

-Amlwch residents as Lamor Llan...

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-..whereas Porth Llechrog residents

-call it Traeth Dynion (Men's Beach).

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-There is also Traeth Merched

-(Women's Beach)...

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-..which signifies the respectability

-that existed in society years ago.

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-As we leave Traeth Dynion

-and Carreg Bob Morgan...

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-..we come across

-more personal names.

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-Trwyn Fanning and Trwyn John Rows

-are two of many.

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-According to hearsay,

-Trwyn John Rows...

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-..is associated

-with Jonathan Roose...

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-..who discovered copper

-in Parys mountain in 1748.

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-If that is correct, then the local

-name has survived for 250 years.

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-Further along the coastline,

-a stone's throw to the north...

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-..is Ogo Pwll Y Delysg.

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-Dulse is the English word for

-Delysg, a type of edible seaweed...

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-..which obviously thrived

-in this area.

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-Ogo Pwll Y Delysg

-is far too dangerous to enter...

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-..so I've come to meet chef

-Aled Williams in Porth Llechog.

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-This is what we're searching for.

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-Long, red dulse.

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-This book tells us

-which plants are edible.

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-It says here that it is

-"common all around the coast."

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-It's meant to be.

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-It's meant to be.

-

-Apart from this beach!

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-The bucket is empty.

-It can be collected at low tide.

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-"Just above and just below

-the low tide mark."

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-Further over there.

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-Further over there.

-

-Let's go.

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-There's some there.

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-It's been washed away.

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-Ah, what's this? Is this it?

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-Its colour varies.

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-It goes from brown to purple.

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-It looks so nice, doesn't it?

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-We've found an area here...

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-..which is at the furthest point

-of the low-tide mark.

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-It must like being underwater.

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-It's still wet, so it's fresh.

-It hasn't dried out at all.

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-Is it good stuff?

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-Is it good stuff?

-

-Excellent.

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-There's plenty here.

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-It's almost lunch time.

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-Back we go,

-above Ogo Pwll Y Delysg...

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-..where Aled prepares a seafood

-chowder and other local ingredients.

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-Shall I stir?

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-Shall I stir?

-

-Why not.

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-Cockles.

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-Some crabmeat too.

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-Can you eat dulse raw?

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-Yes.

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-It's a little tough but I like it.

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-What did the book say?

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-"Texture of a shirt collar."

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-But I disagree.

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-It's a tad tough.

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-Just a little, but it tastes great.

-It tastes of the sea.

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-The flavour comes through gradually.

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-When this comes to the boil, we add

-the dulse and other ingredients.

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-This takes

-about 50 minutes to reduce down.

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-We don't want to overcook it

-so that it turns to sludge.

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-We want to see it in the chowder.

-I don't want to do much to it.

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-I'll keep it nice and chunky. It'll

-help bring out the taste of the veg.

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-Once the chowder's warmed through,

-it's ready.

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-Look at the colours.

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-Lovely bright colours

-with the dulse in amongst them.

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-Wonderful.

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-This is ready now.

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-Let me try it.

-I'll take a piece with dulse in it.

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-Of course.

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-Of course.

-

-Here goes.

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-It's delicious.

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-We've a full saucepan here.

-Very nice.

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-This part of the coast on

-the other side of Pwll Y Delysg...

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-..is typical of what happens

-to native names for coastal areas.

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-Naturally, language evolves...

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-..and original Welsh names

-change when translated into English.

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-Ogo Pwll Y Delysg

-is known as Conger Alley.

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-Trwyn Myn is known as Second Point.

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-Allt Ebolion

-is known as Cathedral Rock.

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-As the nature of society changes,

-names become anglicized...

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-..and thus replace

-the native Welsh names.

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-This natural bay, close to

-Allt Ebolion, is called Borthwen.

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-The quartzite mineral

-can be found here.

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-Considering there are

-nine Borthwens on Anglesey...

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-..it's unlikely it was

-named after the white mineral.

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-Quartzite is used to make bricks.

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-It's strange that a bricks industry

-thrived here in this barren area...

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-..until 1949.

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-Further along the coast...

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-..are the remains of an old

-porcelain works at Llanlleianau.

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-Lleian is the Welsh word for nun,

-lleianod is the plural...

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-..rather than lleianau

-in Llanlleianau.

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-However, there is no history

-of a convent in the area...

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-..so the meaning

-of Llanlleianau is unclear.

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-Cemaes, on the northern coast

-of Anglesey, is a maritime village.

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-I've come here

-to meet two local men.

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-Ted Hughes and Dafydd Williams

-have been born and bred here.

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-Dafydd is a fisherman and Ted

-comes from a family of sailors.

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-You gave me the name

-of this place here, Cefn Iwrch.

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-Iwrch is a roe deer, of course.

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-There are plenty of places

-named after animals.

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-There's Cefn March

-and Trwyn Yr Wyth near Dulas...

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-..resembles

-the outline of an animal.

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-I know of a place here...

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-..called Pwll Brefu.

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-They lowered a ladder...

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-..to facilitate crab catching,

-which was very dangerous.

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-I remember seeing that ladder

-about 20 years ago...

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-..but it's probably decayed by now.

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-If you fell, no-one

-would even know you were there.

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-They did the same

-for hunting seagulls' eggs.

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-They'd descend down a ladder.

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-There might've been a roe deer

-bleating in Pwll Brefu.

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-Then there's Porthwen.

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-Then there's Porthwen.

-

-Borthwen is close to Amlwch...

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-..but you pronounce this Porth-wen.

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-It's good water

-for washing your feet.

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-An old uncle of mine would fetch

-a bottle of it every summer.

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-He washed his feet once

-every summer with Porthwen water.

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-He might've washed his feet

-with river water too, mind you.

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-Ponc Y Mor.

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-We used to call Trwyn Penrhyn

-Ponc Y Mor.

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-That's where people would congregate

-to watch the boating regatta.

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-A boat race?

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-Yes, for rowing boats and sailboats.

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-Did you compete at all?

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-Yes, we did.

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-Did you win?

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-No.

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-No.

-

-Porth Amlwch always beat us.

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-They'd bring

-an old boat and a decent one.

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-The old one got in our way

-and the other sped to the finish!

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-That brings us to Pwll Cingal...

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-..and Ogo'r March Glas.

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-An interesting story's

-linked to that.

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-Those are two names

-which spark my curiosity.

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-The word is Cengl,

-but we pronounce it Cingal.

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-We fish from that rock there,

-don't we?

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-Yes, we fish for wrasse.

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-It's a great spot.

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-Sadly, these names are disappearing.

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-How many people nowadays

-would know these names?

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-Very few, unfortunately.

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-You could count them on one hand.

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-And two of those are here!

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-We're two out of the five!

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-You can add one

-now I know about them!

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-.

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-Subtitles

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-We're in Cemaes,

-on the northern coast of Anglesey.

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-After collecting charming names from

-Ted Hughes and Dafydd Williams...

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-..Dafydd took me out in his boat...

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-..as we went in search of names

-in this coastal area.

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-Of all the names

-we've come across...

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-..Ogo'r March Glas has to be

-the most curious of them all.

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-There's an extraordinary story

-about a farm in the locality.

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-Yes, a man lost his life

-in Ogo'r March Glas.

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-You could say

-it's a romantic story.

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-I heard it from my grandmother.

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-I'm sure

-there's an element of truth in it.

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-It goes back hundreds of years.

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-A man was courting a woman

-called Margaret Lloyd.

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-She lived in Llanfechell rectory.

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-He lived on Cromlech farm

-with his brothers.

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-He was engaged to this girl...

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-..but went away for some 30 years.

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-When he came back,

-no-one recognized him.

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-The girl

-had married one of his brothers.

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-He was so incensed...

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-..he jumped

-on the back of a horse...

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-..and galloped from wherever he was,

-either Llanfechell or Cromlech...

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-..across the fields...

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-..and plummeted into the sea here.

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-The following morning, someone came

-across his hat and the horse's body.

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-The man fell to his death,

-here in Ogof Y March Glas.

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-It's a remarkable name.

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-A tragic story but charming names.

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-Indeed.

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-After hearing

-Dafydd's remarkable story...

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-..I tried to substantiate it.

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-There's an old smallholding

-called Cromlech in the area...

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-..but I've not found any record

-of the Wynne family living there.

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-Written records suggest

-that the son worked for Charles I...

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-..and fled

-shortly after the king's execution.

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-I've come to search

-for the grave of Margaret Lloyd...

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-..the girl

-who married her fiance's brother...

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-..one of the Cromlech Wynnes.

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-The king was executed in 1649.

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-This gravestone is inscribed

-with the first name Margaret...

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-..and the surname

-begins with the letters W and Y.

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-The last three letters

-are illegible.

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-We can only assume

-that perhaps Wynne is the surname.

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-The date inscribed is 1677...

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-..28 years

-after the king's execution.

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-Legend has it that Cromlech's

-eldest son had been away 30 years.

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-The name is almost correct...

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-..and the date is from the same era.

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-Is this the girl who came between

-the sons of the Cromlech estate?

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-It's hard to say.

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-Some pieces of the jigsaw

-are missing...

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-..so it's hard to see the complete

-picture, which is very frustrating.

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-Further along, to the

-island's north-westerly tip...

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-..we reach part of the coast that

-is notorious throughout Anglesey.

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-The loss of human life at sea

-led to the establishment in 1928...

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-..of the Anglesey Association...

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-..For The Preservation of Life

-From Shipwreck.

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-Due to this treacherous part

-of the coast...

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-..of the 19 lifeboats

-assigned to the British Isles...

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-..six of them

-were stationed on Anglesey.

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-The Welsh name

-for the rocks in the distance...

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-..is Carreg Feddgar, though its

-English name is more widely used.

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-On recent maps, as well

-as this early Ordnance map...

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-..they are referred to

-as Harry Furlough's Rocks.

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-But if you consult Lieutenant

-Robinson's chart of 1835...

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-..and Lewis Morris's chart

-from the mid-18th century...

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-..it's known as Harry's Furlong.

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-The personal name, Harry, and

-Furlong, a unit of measurement...

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-..equivalent to 220 yards.

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-If you measure the distance from the

-land to the rocks at high tide...

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-..there are

-exactly 220 yards between them.

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-According to

-RNLI records from 1907...

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-..Edward Jones, the former coxswain

-of the Cemlyn lifeboat...

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-..said

-that an officer named Harry...

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-..had discovered that the rocks

-were exactly a furlong from land.

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-Here's the difficulty.

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-This must've happened

-at least 150 years...

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-..before Edward Jones

-related the story.

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-A furlong is also a unit

-of land measurement.

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-But it does correlate with

-the earliest form, Harry's Furlong.

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-They are

-incredibly treacherous rocks.

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-A host of ships

-have run aground on these rocks.

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-By calling them Furlong...

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-..the only thing

-a sailor would have to do...

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-..to circumnavigate them safely...

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-..would be to ensure he was

-at least a furlong away from land...

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-..to pass by safely.

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-I wouldn't put my neck on the line

-for this explanation...

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-..but it's an attractive assumption.

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-On the western tip

-of the mainland...

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-..lies Maen Bugail...

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-..a large rock which overlooks

-a cluster of smaller ones...

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-..just as a shepherd

-watches over his flock.

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-The Biggal of Mingcarlo and Biggal

-of Corregan are in the Scilly Isles.

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-The form, Bugueles,

-can also be found in Brittany...

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-..and Beagle Rock

-and Beagles Point are in Cornwall.

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-A combination of languages...

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-..have geographical

-characteristics in common...

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-..as well as other nuances.

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-They assign human properties

-such as emotions...

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-..to inanimate objects like rocks.

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-This is Llanfairynghornwy, on the

-north-western corner of Anglesey.

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-It's known as the Wild Country.

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-On a calm, sunny day....

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-..the place is tranquil.

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-But conversely, when the wind

-howls over this barren headland...

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-..it feels like a different country.

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-One of the oldest farms to survive

-is Orsedd Goch.

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-Sion Richards

-has lived here for 88 years.

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-You've had plenty of opportunity

-to walk the Anglesey coastline.

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-I've done it all my life.

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-So has my brother,

-who was a crab catcher.

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-Did he have names

-for all the crab holes?

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-He certainly did. Twll Robin Dafarn,

-Twll Mari Gadar and so on.

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-He had

-all kinds of names for them.

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-One was called Twll Gwlyb (Wet Hole)

-but they were all wet!

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-On this old map...

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-..Porth Tywedog

-is adjacent to Hen Borth.

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-What's next after that?

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-What's next after that?

-

-Porth Y Wig...

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-..or Porth Yr Ebol.

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-Porth Badric.

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-Yes, I can see it.

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-Beddi'r Cewri are at the top.

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-Here?

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-Here?

-

-Yes, there are seven graves in all.

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-Are they visible?

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-Yes, their shapes are visible.

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-You can see their shape clearly.

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-What's the story behind them?

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-There was once a church there.

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-It was used by monks.

-It caught fire.

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-You reach

-Porth Ddafad Ddu after that.

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-That's not noted on this map.

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-There's no Porth Ddafad Ddu here.

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-What about Cen y Fydlyn?

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-I can see a little cove here.

0:20:010:20:04

-Porth Ddafad Ddu. There's something

-beneath it but I can't read it.

0:20:050:20:10

-Porth y Brilas?

0:20:100:20:12

-Porth y Brilas?

-

-Y Brubis.

0:20:120:20:14

-Ah, I see. Porth Y Brubis.

0:20:140:20:17

-It's not very accessible. I don't

-think you can get there any more.

0:20:170:20:21

-There are all kinds at the bottom.

-This has come from there.

0:20:220:20:25

-This thing you're sitting on.

0:20:250:20:28

-This? Was it washed up?

0:20:280:20:30

-Yes, it was washed up...

0:20:300:20:32

-..along with

-45 gallons of engine oil.

0:20:330:20:37

-It came from a cargo ship,

-probably from Ireland.

0:20:370:20:41

-Some ship

-must've lost its cargo on deck.

0:20:420:20:46

-There are crewmen somewhere

-searching for their seat!

0:20:460:20:50

-How did you salvage it

-from Porth y Brubis?

0:20:500:20:53

-Four of us young lads dragged it

-with a rope or something.

0:20:540:20:58

-Where else is there

-after Gwter Fudr?

0:20:580:21:02

-Ogo Fast.

0:21:020:21:05

-Did you see the mast?

0:21:050:21:08

-No, but

-someone must've ended up with it.

0:21:080:21:12

-Things have changed.

0:21:140:21:16

-Leaving Orsedd Goch, I realized

-that the detailed map I had...

0:21:250:21:30

-..didn't compare to Sion's memory

-and knowledge of his native area.

0:21:300:21:36

-Porth Swtan

-is a short distance away.

0:21:360:21:39

-Church Bay is its English name.

0:21:390:21:41

-It's used more often

-than its Welsh equivalent.

0:21:420:21:45

-Old place names aren't transferred

-from generation to generation...

0:21:450:21:50

-..like they were years ago.

0:21:500:21:52

-By losing these names, we also lose

-our history and our identity.

0:21:520:21:58

-I've collected many charming names

-from Sion Richards.

0:22:190:22:23

-Names like Ogof Ast,

-Ogo Gaseg and so on.

0:22:240:22:26

-But I've no way of pinpointing them

-on a map with confidence.

0:22:270:22:32

-To be honest, during this series...

0:22:320:22:34

-..I feel as if the sand

-is shifting beneath my feet...

0:22:340:22:38

-..especially after talking to Dafydd

-Williams and Ted Hughes in Cemaes.

0:22:390:22:44

-They gave me names like Pwll Cingal,

-which has a lovely ring to it.

0:22:440:22:49

-Neither of them

-could think of anyone else...

0:22:490:22:52

-..who would use, or even, know

-about the name.

0:22:530:22:56

-In Porth Llechog, there are

-names like Trwyn Fanning....

0:22:560:22:59

-..and names of people in history

-who are of relevance to the area.

0:23:000:23:04

-Local names

-that have been used for centuries...

0:23:040:23:07

-..will probably die

-with the present generation.

0:23:070:23:11

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

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