Pennod 5 Yr Arfordir


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-I'm on a tour of Anglesey, exploring

-some of the names along its coast.

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-This episode

-focuses on its western side.

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-The region is associated

-with saints and villains.

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-The place names are testament

-to the influences, old and new...

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-..as the language

-continues to ebb and flow.

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-Our journey

-takes us from Rhosneigr...

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-..along the western coast, past

-Porth Cwyfan to Llanddwyn Island.

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-This area of Anglesey

-is a surfing hot spot...

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-..as south-westerly winds toss

-large waves against the shoreline.

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-Years ago, a different crowd

-flocked to the area.

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-They too made use of the waves,

-but for very different reasons.

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-This is Traeth Crigyll...

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-..near Rhosneigr.

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-The Welsh name Crigyll

-means bay or cove.

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-This old map shows it's

-a perfect, natural trap for ships.

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-Many a ship has met its fate here

-over the years.

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-For a century, this area

-was famous, or rather infamous...

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-..for the actions of men

-that were internationally known...

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-..as Lladron Crigyll

-(Thieves of Crigyll).

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-Actor John Glyn Owen

-is a local man...

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-..who's been brought up

-on stories about these villains.

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-What's the story

-behind Lladron Crigyll?

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-The Crigyll beach of the 18th

-century was a very exciting place.

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-It's claimed that the thieves...

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-..who looted the ships

-that run aground here...

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-..purposely planted lanterns

-on the horns of cattle...

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-..to attract ships to shore.

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-During that time,

-it's also believed that mothers...

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-..on putting

-their children to bed...

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-..encouraged them,

-whilst saying their prayers...

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-..to pray for a large ship

-to turn up on the beach by morning.

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-We're talking about

-an impoverished era.

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-And ships

-were laden with all kinds of stuff.

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-Lewis Morris,

-one of the Anglesey Morrises...

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-..wrote a poem

-damning these thieves.

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-There's a couplet which goes...

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-..The news makes me a happy man

-That Lladron Crigyll will hang.

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-He must've hated them. He was

-a toll collector for a short while.

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-They must've been anathema to him.

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-They must've been anathema to him.

-

-Many years later...

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-..following the wreck

-of Charming Jenny...

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-..a ship carrying

-a cargo of alcoholic drinks...

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-..Lewis Morris's wish was granted.

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-One of the thieves, a man

-named John Parry from Rhoscolyn...

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-..was hanged.

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-From what I understand,

-some were occasionally set free.

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-Yes, on account of Judge Martin

-from Beaumaris being drunk.

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-Reports suggest he was always drunk.

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-Despite their guilt?

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-Despite their guilt?

-

-They were obviously guilty.

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-They also achieved notoriety

-in the national press.

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-This is from The Times...

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-..dated 30 October 1867.

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-Let me find it.

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-"The wreck is now prey

-to the notorious wreckers...

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-"..known to Welsh

-seafaring men as Lladron Crigyll.

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-"Many hundreds of them were stealing

-whatever they could carry away.

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-"The efforts of Captain Jones

-and the Coastguard...

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-"..were utterly inadequate

-to protect the property."

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-There were hundreds of them.

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-There were hundreds of them.

-

-I doubt there were hundreds.

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-Slight hyperbole, perhaps.

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-Hyperbole

-on the part of the journalist.

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-They don't sound like the kind

-of men I'd want to tackle either.

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-They were dangerous.

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-Give them a wide berth!

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-People nowadays make the most of

-the waves in a very different way.

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-Guto Roberts

-and Bedwyr ap Gwyn live locally.

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-They give surfing lessons

-in Rhosneigr...

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-..through the medium of Welsh.

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-Surfing conjures up images

-of Hawaii or Cornwall.

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-This is a Welsh-medium surfing club.

-How did it begin?

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-There was enough demand

-but no Welsh speakers available.

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-Guto and I qualified

-as surfing instructors...

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-..and we decided to start a club.

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-You teach

-through the medium of Welsh too.

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-Yes, everything's in Welsh,

-including the terminology.

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-We wanted locals

-to enjoy their coastline...

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-..and be taught

-in their native language.

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-Hopefully it'll lead to change.

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-Have you had to coin new terms?

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-Yes, we've been developing

-new terms for surfing.

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-When it comes to surfing etiquette

-and so on...

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-..if someone cuts across another's

-wave, it's called a drop-in.

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-"Torri ar draws" is a term

-that already exists in Welsh...

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-Rather than "gollwng fewn"?

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-Rather than "gollwng fewn"?

-

-That sounds silly.

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-"Torri ar draws" already exists,

-so why not use it?

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-Porth Neigwl

-is a popular beach in Lleyn.

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-Its name has come full circle.

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-Some people are referring to it

-as Y Geg in Welsh.

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-They've heard the English, Hell's

-Mouth, and translated it back...

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-..to Ceg Uffern or whatever.

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-They refer to it as Y Geg instead

-of the original, Porth Neigwl.

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-If they knew it was that to begin

-with, they'd call it Porth Neigwl...

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-..instead of translating it.

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-..instead of translating it.

-

-Children are without prejudice.

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-Are they keen for you to teach them

-the names of the beaches and so on?

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-Yes, they just take it as gospel.

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-As part of our business, we also

-teach people from further afield.

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-We just give them the Welsh names.

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-The beach will be known

-by its Welsh name then.

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-We call this beach Tyn Tywyn,

-whether they're Welsh or not.

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-That's its name.

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-Does it also enrich

-their experience...

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-..of being at the seaside...

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-..from knowing the Welsh names

-and a little history?

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-We're proud of the area too.

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-I was brought up in Benllech.

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-We've always referred to

-these places by their Welsh names.

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-It's going against the tide

-by saying, "It's not called that."

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-We take pride in our locality...

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-..and there's history to names

-like Tyn Tywyn and Porth Nobla.

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-Barclodiad Y Gawres

-is on our doorstep...

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-..and that takes us back in history

-thousands of years.

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-I feel like joining you.

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-Get changed then.

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-There is a strong argument

-for what Bedwyr and Guto are doing.

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-They are retaining native names

-and sharing them among the young.

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-But we mustn't get misled...

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-..by believing colourful

-explanations based on hearsay.

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-Porth Nobla is the name

-of this beautiful beach.

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-Years ago,

-there was a coin called a noble.

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-Minted in the 14th century,

-it was worth one-third of a pound.

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-According to the story...

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-..a ship or a boat came to shore...

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-..and shed a load of nobles

-all over the beach.

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-It'd be nice

-if that story were true...

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-..because

-these are worth thousands nowadays.

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-Unfortunately,

-it's more probable...

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-..that the name's derivation

-is far less romantic.

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-Quite simply, it was considered

-the noblest landing place.

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-Across the peninsula from

-Porth Nobla is Porth Trecastell...

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-..known as Cable Bay in English.

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-Cable Bay is a relatively

-recent name originating from 1902...

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-..when cable telegraph arrived,

-connecting Wales and Ireland.

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-On Mynydd Cnwc, overlooking the bay,

-is Barclodiad Y Gawres...

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-..Wales's largest

-Neolithic burial chamber...

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-..dating from around 3,000BC.

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-In terms of its shape and pattern

-of the stone carvings...

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-..it's similar to burial chambers

-found in Boyne Valley, Ireland.

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-This is what

-connects this location with Ireland.

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-5,000 years...

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-..before the telegraph wire

-was connected.

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-.

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-Subtitles

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-Subtitles

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-I'm exploring some of the names

-found on Anglesey's west coast.

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-The little church in the sea

-is one of the island's wonders.

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-Porth China is the cove

-to the north of it.

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-According to some, a ship

-laden with china came ashore here.

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-The church of Saint Cwyfan

-stands on Ynys Cribiniau...

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-..which refers to

-the rock's grooves.

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-It's not shown as an island

-on old maps...

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-..but rather

-as a part of the mainland.

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-Porth Cwyfan means St Cwyfan's Bay.

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-Porth, bay,

-and Cwyfan, the saint's name.

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-Further north of Porth Cwyfan,

-past the sand dunes of Aberffraw...

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-..is the village of Malltraeth.

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-We've now entered

-the Bodorgan estate...

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-..one of the most famous and most

-influential estates on Anglesey.

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-It extends towards the sea...

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-..and includes the beaches, islands

-and the small rocks near the shore.

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-We've been granted permission

-to visit a small island...

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-..which has

-an extraordinary name and history.

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-This is Caseg (Horse) Malltraeth,

-an island first recorded in 1617.

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-A cluster of smaller rocks

-closer to the shore...

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-..are called Ebolion (Foals).

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-This rock was given its name...

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-..due to its resemblance

-to a horse in the sea.

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-But it doesn't

-just look like a horse.

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-When the southeast wind blows, in

-the opposite direction to normal...

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-..the elements

-hit this rock in such a way...

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-..that it makes the strangest noise.

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-It vibrates

-throughout the entire land.

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-People say they can hear

-Caseg Malltraeth neighing.

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-They say it's a sign

-that adverse weather is on the way.

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-Here's a question for you to ponder.

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-Is it called Caseg Malltraeth

-because it neighs...

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-..or does it neigh because its name

-is Caseg Malltraeth?

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-Who knows?

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-Malltraeth cobb was built at

-the beginning of the 19th century.

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-Prior to that,

-the sea gushed over this marshland.

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-At high tide it reached the town

-of Llangefni, some miles away.

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-Behind the cobb lies Cors Ddyga.

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-There are names within the bog

-that betray its coastal origin.

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-This is Tyn Fflat.

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-Here the cargo boat was kept to

-transfer goods to nearby bodorgan.

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-There were several fords

-to cross here at low tide.

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-Rhyd Pen-y-Crug, Rhyd Lydan and Rhyd

-Felen are just some of the names.

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-Only their names exist

-as evidence of a time...

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-..when this area

-flooded with the tide.

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-It's remarkable to think nowadays...

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-..that there are records

-of shipwrecks in these very fields.

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-As Cors Ddyga...

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-..reaches the administrative

-district of Llangefni...

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-..we come across a name that makes

-no sense at all nowadays.

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-I'm approximately

-eight miles from the sea...

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-..a mere stone's throw away from

-Llangefni at the heart of Anglesey.

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-This elevation of land

-is called Ynys Cefni...

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-..or Ynys Las

-by the man who farms this area.

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-Before Malltraeth Cobb was built,

-an island stood here at high tide...

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-..and was surrounded by sea

-in every direction.

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-It's hard to picture nowadays...

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-..but retaining its name ensures

-we retain this area's history.

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-From lesser-known coastal names...

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-..to the most famous of them all

-on Anglesey.

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-This is Llanddwyn Island,

-named after St Dwynwen.

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-The ruins of her church

-are still evident.

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-For centuries, the island

-has been a destination for pilgrims.

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-Natural Resources Wales works hard

-to preserve the island's beauty.

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-They line the pathways with shells.

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-It's fitting that shells

-are laid on the pathways...

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-..since shells

-were the symbols of the pilgrims.

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-The grooves

-symbolize the number of people...

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-..who came from far and wide...

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-..to the one location

-for the same reason.

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-How much maintenance work

-is required to retain its beauty?

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-A lot of work is involved.

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-Around 250,000 visitors a year

-pass through the gates...

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-..and of that number, around 30%-40%

-venture up to the island.

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-We have to ensure

-their safety on site.

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-We work around them and ensure

-a high standard of horticulture.

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-What does your work entail?

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-I've a few job to do.

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-I do a lot in the dunes

-as well as the island.

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-I search for rare plants

-and document them on maps...

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-..to make sure

-they're preserved for the future...

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-..so that they can thrive.

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-Do you cultivate rare flowers?

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-Do you cultivate rare flowers?

-

-Yes, that's the idea.

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-We've collected wild seeds

-from this site...

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-..planted them in the soil,

-and once they've blossomed...

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-..we do the same thing again.

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-So that you end up

-with a beautiful, natural meadow?

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-Yes, that's the idea. We even

-plant in the chapel's cemetery.

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-You just might have

-the best job in the world.

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-I think so.

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-Those who were ill or unlucky in

-love made pilgrimages to Llanddwyn.

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-There are reports

-of people coming here...

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-..and falling asleep on a grassy

-area known as Gwely Esyth...

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-..which is beneath the spot

-where the tower stands today.

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-Once pilgrims awoke and

-inscribed their names in the turf...

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-..they were cured

-of their complaints.

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-Dr David Owens of Newborough has

-an extensive knowledge of the area.

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-His grandfather was one of Llanddwyn

-Island's last sea captains.

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-What a spectacular view.

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-You've spent a large part

-of your childhood in these cottages.

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-Not in the cottages, as such...

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-..but during school holidays,

-my friends and I would come here...

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-..to sunbathe and swim...

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-..or go boating or fishing.

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-What I've tried to do...

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-..is label as much as I can.

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-This is the portion which

-connects Llanddwyn to the mainland.

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-This is its neck.

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-The first place we come to

-is Porth Cychod.

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-It was a place

-for boats to shelter...

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-..after they'd been fishing

-and so on.

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-There were few places to shelter

-on the island...

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-..until they built

-this causeway in front of us.

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-This didn't exist before 1815.

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-So it was an island

-before building the causeway?

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-This would've been the best beach

-on the entire island.

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-That's my understanding. If we

-carry on, we come to a small bay.

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-It's called Porth Yr Halen.

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-There was a time when high taxes...

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-..were levied on salt.

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-Smugglers would smuggle it in

-to overcome that problem.

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-That explains its name.

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-It's a discreet little cove...

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-..to smuggle contraband!

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-This is Ynys Y Clochydd.

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-I've heard people refer

-to this beach as Porth Clochydd.

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-But I've also heard people

-call it Porth Gwenith.

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-From where

-is the name Porth Clochydd derived?

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-There was once

-a church on Llanddwyn...

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-..and perhaps centuries ago...

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-..a sexton lived here.

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-He might've fished in the bay...

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-..or moored his boat there.

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-I don't know the reason for it.

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-I don't know the reason for it.

-

-It must be an archaic name.

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-Yes, maybe so.

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-The rock over my left shoulder...

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-..is called Craig Y Ganan.

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-The cannon behind us...

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-..was only positioned here

-25 years ago.

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-It used to sit on top of that rock.

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-It used to sit on top of that rock.

-

-Craig Y Ganan refers to the cannon.

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-What purpose did it serve?

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-When the crewmen

-were summoned to the lifeboat...

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-..they'd fire the cannon.

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-It alerted the people of Newborough.

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-There was also a cannon there,

-on a farm called Maes Y Ceirchdir...

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-..which was fired in response.

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-To let them know

-there was a crew on the way.

0:20:480:20:50

-There weren't enough crewmen...

0:20:510:20:54

-..among the few sailors

-who lived here...

0:20:540:20:58

-..to row a heavy boat

-in treacherous weather...

0:20:580:21:04

-..to Caernarfon, for instance.

0:21:040:21:06

-To the southwest...

0:21:070:21:09

-..there are two islands in the sea.

0:21:090:21:12

-Ynys Y Cranc (Crab Island)

-and Ynys Y Mochyn (Pig Island).

0:21:120:21:16

-Why were they called these names?

0:21:160:21:19

-You can understand crab...

0:21:190:21:21

-..but I doubt they caught them

-under rocks and in crab holes.

0:21:210:21:26

-So Ynys Y Mochyn

-is the furthest one?

0:21:260:21:29

-A pig at one time must've had the

-misfortune of ending up there.

0:21:290:21:33

-A boat carrying pigs

-might well have sunk there.

0:21:330:21:38

-It might've been transporting pigs.

0:21:380:21:39

-It might've been transporting pigs.

-

-And the name has stuck.

0:21:390:21:41

-It's a minute island.

0:21:420:21:44

-You've given us these names

-that would've been used locally.

0:21:450:21:49

-There's a wealth of them.

0:21:490:21:51

-I noticed this map where they've

-labelled the beaches and islands.

0:22:080:22:14

-Considering that so many

-of these names are being lost...

0:22:150:22:19

-..this example should be followed.

0:22:190:22:22

-Apps and software could be designed

-to support such maps...

0:22:220:22:26

-..introducing pronunciations

-and the history behind the names.

0:22:260:22:30

-That's a matter

-that should be discussed...

0:22:310:22:34

-..by councillors and financiers.

0:22:340:22:36

-It should be up for discussion,

-in my opinion.

0:22:370:22:40

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:22:570:22:59

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0:22:590:22:59

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