Pennod 6 Yr Arfordir


Pennod 6

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-There's a wealth of history

-behind the names...

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-..that have been coined

-throughout the years.

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-I'm unlocking the mystery

-behind some of Anglesey's names...

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-..in order to record them

-for posterity.

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-This episode takes us

-from the mouth of Abermenai...

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-..along the Menai, past Menai Bridge

-to Puffin Island...

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-..at the furthest tip of Anglesey.

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-An anonymous poet

-referred to the Menai...

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-..as the bluest and most beautiful

-river on the face of the earth.

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-But the Menai is, in fact,

-a strait rather than a river...

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-..with the saltwater tide separating

-Anglesey from the rest of Wales.

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-People have traded, fished

-and fought along these shores.

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-Its history has left its mark

-on Anglesey's names.

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-Braich Abermenai...

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-..extends narrowly to the sea...

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-..ending up

-in the shape of a crook...

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-..hence Southcrook, to give it its

-English name, originating from 1304.

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-Crook is derived from the Norse,

-krokr, which means a hook.

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-It's yet another example...

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-..of the early Norse influence

-on Anglesey's coastline.

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-The Norsemen

-aren't the only people...

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-..to influence Anglesey's

-names over the centuries.

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-Legends about attacks from the sea

-are rife in some areas.

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-The next location a short distance

-away is no exception.

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-I've come to Tal Y Foel

-to meet Professor Peredur Lynch...

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-..to discuss a bloody battle.

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-There is some argument

-over its exact location.

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-There's some confusion

-over the location.

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-We're here in Tal Y Foel

-on the Menai estuary.

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-The earliest reference

-to the battle...

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-..is mentioned

-in the poetry of Gwalchmai.

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-He was an Anglesey man,

-born and bred.

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-He was the son of Meilyr Brydydd.

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-Gwalchmai wrote a series of poems...

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-..celebrating

-Owain Gwynedd's victories.

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-An exceptionally bloody battle

-is described in the poetry.

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-He alludes to three fleets

-arriving on Anglesey's shoreline.

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-Therein lies the problem.

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-Gwalchmai says that the battle

-took place in Tal Moelfre.

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-We're in Tal Y Foel at the moment...

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-..which means

-the other side of the hill.

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-That is the translation

-of the place name.

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-But Gwalchmai makes reference

-to a place called Tal Moelfre.

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-There's a Moelfre on Anglesey.

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-There's a Moelfre on Anglesey.

-

-I know, I was born there!

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-It's the other side of the island -

-Tal isn't included in the name.

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-It's problematic...

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-..because in that poem, Gwalchmai

-writes very dramatic lines.

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-He calls the battle a bloodbath.

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-So much blood had been lost...

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-..by the Normans and Vikings

-that had arrived here...

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-..that the Menai's tide ceased.

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-"Menai is without tide...

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-"..due to the ebb tide of blood."

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-So the Menai doesn't ebb

-due to so much blood!

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-That's what led people to believe...

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-..that Tal Y Foel

-was the location of the battle.

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-To convolute the matter further...

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-..a scholar

-called Egerton Phillimore...

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-..claimed...

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-..that another, much earlier battle,

-took place here in 1144...

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-..when Owain Gwynedd

-fought against his own family.

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-I'd prefer to believe that

-we're standing in the wrong place.

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-The battle took place in Moelfre.

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-The battle took place in Moelfre.

-

-I'd like to believe so too!

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-But poets like Gwalchmai were fond

-of using hyperbole in their work.

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-He over-exaggerated.

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-It's more dramatic to describe

-a bloodbath in Moelfre...

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-..and the blood flowed

-all the way to this point...

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-..and there was no tide

-resulting from the killing spree.

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-From battles between people to

-battles against the environment.

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-Tal Y Foel overlooks

-a treacherous area for sailors.

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-Not only is this sandbank

-in the middle of the Menai Strait...

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-..and is obscured by the tide,

-it also moves.

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-Traeth Gwyllt (Wild Beach)

-is a large expanse of sand...

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-..that is uncovered

-when then the tide goes out.

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-It's hard to explain

-the name's derivation.

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-It might allude to the fact...

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-..that the sandbank

-moves ever so slightly each year.

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-The sand

-is very soft in some parts here.

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-It's very easy to find yourself

-buried in sand up to your knees.

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-The surface

-is a collections of hollows...

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-..like the surface of the moon.

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-It's easy to believe

-I'm standing on something wild.

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-Sadly,

-many have lost their lives here...

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-..over the years.

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-In one shipwreck in 1785...

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-..54 people died.

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-The place

-still continues to fool people.

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-Pleasure boats

-run into difficulty here.

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-According to Richard Jones,

-a Menai sailor...

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-..one man was found here,

-and when they came to rescue him...

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-..all he had

-was an atlas of the area's roads.

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-He obviously had no idea

-what he was doing.

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-There is more bloodthirsty history

-further along the Menai Strait...

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-..near the remains

-of a very sacred landmark.

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-These are

-the ruins of Llanidan church...

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-..established by St Nidan

-from the historic Hen Ogledd.

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-Below the church towards the sea...

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-..is a site whose name...

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-..symbolizes

-a significant historical event.

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-This is Pant Y Sgraffie.

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-Sgraffie is derived from

-the Latin scaphae...

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-..meaning a flat-bottomed boat...

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-..used in shallow water.

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-The modern word skiff

-comes from the same derivation.

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-The name, Thames Valley Skiffs,

-is still used to this day.

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-Since the boats

-are used in shallow water...

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-..they're perfect

-for landing on shore.

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-The meaning of Pant Y Sgraffie...

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-..is Meadow Of The Landing Craft.

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-Somewhere to bring people

-and drop them on land.

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-It's claimed that this is where

-the Romans landed on Anglesey.

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-Henry Rowlands

-describes the scene...

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-..in the Mona Antiqua Restaurata.

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-Rowlands puts his own colourful

-and romantic spin on the story.

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-"Now the enraged Romans,

-having got on land...

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-"..and the conquering sword having

-taken its fill of British blood...

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-"..these giddy Druids who durst not

-engage in...

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-"..but stood

-without the array of battle.

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-"Seeing their sacrifices and

-oblations on which they depended...

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-"..prove ineffectual

-on these fearless Romans...

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-"..nimbly flipped away

-to their woods and coverts...

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-"..leaving their people

-to be miserably cut down...

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-"..and slaughtered

-by the advancing Romans."

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-There is some uncertainty

-about the landing place, but...

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-.."There are probably grounds

-to conclude...

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-"..that it was near Porthamel...

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-"..betwixt a place

-called Pwll Y Fuwch and Llanidan."

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-He goes on to say...

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-.."It seems their foot landed

-in their flat-bottomed vessels...

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-"..near the said Pwll Y Fuwch...

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-"..where there is a place called

-Pant Yr Ysgraffiau to this day."

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-Further along the Menai Strait...

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-..are the two bridges

-which cross the Menai.

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-One of the area's wonders

-is also located here.

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-Horatio Nelson

-described this area as...

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-.."One of the most treacherous

-stretches of sea in the world."

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-This statue of him, commissioned

-by the owner of Plas Llanfair...

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-..has watched over these shores

-since 1875.

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-At its most powerful, the current

-reaches a speed of eight knots.

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-There are a plethora of rocks

-which are covered by the sea.

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-Being able to navigate around them

-safely requires detailed knowledge.

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-It's easy to see...

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-..how unpredictable the current is

-in this area...

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-..when you see it

-flowing over these rocks.

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-This rock where the Britannia Bridge

-pillar lies is Carreg Frydan...

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-..which refers to the power

-of the gushing tide.

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-Over time,

-the word Frydan became Frydain...

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-..and people misinterpreted it

-to mean Britain in Welsh.

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-It then became Britain

-before Britannia Rock...

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-..which lent its name

-to this architectural masterpiece.

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-It's strange to think that

-Britannia Bridge is a misnomer...

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-..due to people thinking that Frydan

-was a corrupt form of Britain...

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-..instead of a description of the

-water crashing against the rock.

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-Pwll Ceris is a whirlpool...

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-..that has instilled fear in sailors

-and poets throughout the centuries.

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-Gwilym Hiraethog

-described this pool...

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-.."as Ceulwnc i ofni calon,"

-an abyss to frighten the soul.

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-When you're right in the middle

-of Pwll Ceris...

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-..and the sea is bubbling wildly

-all around you...

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-..it's easy to empathize

-with Gwilym Hiraethog's words.

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-In Latin, in the Historia Brittonium

-compiled around 800AD...

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-..the word used to describe

-this location is voraga...

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-..meaning a whirlpool or an abyss.

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-When the work

-was later translated into English...

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-..the word used

-to describe it was swelowe...

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-..which later become swallow.

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-The root of the word lends itself

-to the modern term, The Swellies.

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-The meaning, of course...

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-..is a large pool

-swallowing everything in sight.

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-The Welsh name, Pwll Ceris...

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-..simply takes its name

-from the personal name, Ceris.

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-Carreg Y Pwll is the name of

-the rock which emerges at low tide.

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-Llygad Y Pwll refers to the axis

-around which the water circulates.

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-Having crossed safely through

-Pwll Ceris, we reach Pont Y Borth...

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-..one of Wales's wonders.

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-The name of this rock on which

-the pillar stands is Cerrig y Moch.

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-Long ago, Anglesey's main source

-of income was the livestock market.

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-Before the bridge was built, drovers

-transported the animals by boat.

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-They also swam across the Menai

-Strait when the tide allowed them.

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-Swimming across the strait

-was hard work for a pig.

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-It is because they would stop

-to rest on the rock...

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-..that it is called

-Cerrig Y Moch (Pigs' Rock).

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-.

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-Subtitles

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-Subtitles

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-Our journey exploring some of

-the Menai Strait's names...

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-..brings us to Afon Cadnant,

-north of Menai Bridge.

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-Place names

-lend themselves well to romanticism.

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-It's inevitable that the names of

-rivers are associated with battles.

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-But not in the case

-of Afon Cadnant...

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-..since "Cad" at the root

-of the name doesn't mean battle.

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-"Cadr" in this context means strong.

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-Translated, Cadnant means

-a strong-flowing river.

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-But before we

-disregard battles altogether...

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-..here's an interesting fact.

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-There are three Afon Cadnants

-in the area.

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-One in Conwy, one in Caernarfon

-and this one in Beaumaris.

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-All three are beside castles...

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-..places you would naturally

-associate them with battles.

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-That's just a suggestion

-for you to ponder.

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-There is Cored (Weir) Gadnant

-to be found in the Cadnant estuary.

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-In effect, it's a trap for fish...

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-..designed to catch fish within it

-as the tide goes out.

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-There are many weirs

-along Anglesey's coast.

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-They are hard to date.

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-Cadnant Weir is a good example...

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-..since these tree stumps

-suggest their original shape.

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-Many remains of fishing weirs

-can be still be found...

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-..on the Welsh coastline.

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-But, in reality, only their

-foundations are left nowadays.

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-In working order, there would've

-been a timber wall or fence on top.

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-We can still see traces

-of the stumps and stakes.

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-The stakes would've risen

-from the foundations...

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-..in a lattice shape interwoven

-and similar to basketweave.

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-They would've stood 15 feet high.

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-When the sea crashed over them,

-the fish fell into here.

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-As the tide ebbed, the poor fish

-were trapped by this large wall.

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-Interestingly, the name given

-to this type of wall was Bangor.

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-The name came to mean what was

-caught between this type of wall.

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-It later lent its name to the city

-across the Menai Strait...

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-..Bangor-on-Dee and Bangor Teifi.

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-Though these weirs are ancient,

-they were extremely effective.

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-Some were still operational

-until the mid-20th century.

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-There was a prominent one near the

-pier of the next town, Beaumaris.

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-On the way there,

-we pass a peninsula...

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-..that, in terms of its name,

-is one of the most interesting.

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-This is Penrhyn Safnas. It's

-original form was Pen Ryn Savn Ast.

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-The Welsh must have likened the

-shape of it to a safn (dog's mouth).

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-Its English name is Gallows Point...

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-..on account of its shape.

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-The Norse name for it

-is Osmund's Air...

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-..which is a combination

-of the personal name Asmundr...

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-..and the Norse word eyrr, meaning

-a grainy ridge near the sea.

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-Though it's the same

-geographical location...

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-..there are three variants

-in three languages.

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-The next town

-has a foreign name too.

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-Its archaic Welsh name

-was Cerrig Y Gwyddyl.

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-But when the castle

-was established here...

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-..the French name, Beau Marais,

-was given to the town....

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-..meaning pretty marsh.

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-There are many Latin forms

-of the name in written records...

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-..including Bello Marisco

-and Bellum Mariscum.

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-Sometimes it's pronounced

-"Bliwmaras" locally.

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-An l has been added, just like

-the names Plwmp and Plymlimon.

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-I wonder if Bliwmaras...

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-..has evolved from its very

-early Latin name, Bellum Mariscum?

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-Further along the coast

-and we pass Fryars Bay...

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-..which stands in front of the place

-where Llywelyn the Great...

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-..founded the monastery

-which lends its name to the bay.

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-The site was used for

-less peaceful means during WWII...

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-..when flying boats

-were manufactured here...

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-..and adapted for the RAF.

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-They were launched into the water

-from this narrow slope.

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-Three miles further and the Menai

-opens to the sea once again.

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-This is Ynys Seiriol...

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-..which takes its name from

-St Seiriol who lived in Penmon.

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-Its English name, Puffin Island,

-is relatively recent.

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-The name refers

-to the puffins in summer.

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-During the 18th century...

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-..the puffins were pickled before

-being packed and exported as food.

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-Priestholm is far more recent name,

-dating from the 15th century.

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-Its oldest name is Ynys Lannog.

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-Glannog is a first name

-meaning the shore person.

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-We've no idea what connects Glannog

-to Puffin Island...

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-..but we know

-that his son was called Helig...

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-..meaning a person of the sea...

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-..similar to Dylan Ail Don

-in the Mabinogion.

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-There is also a legend

-dedicated to Helig ap Glannog.

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-Legend has it that Helig ap Glannog

-had a court near Penmaenmawr.

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-One night,

-during a sumptuous feast...

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-..a secret voice warned them

-of an impending tragedy.

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-Llys Helig was flooded and everyone

-drowned apart from two.

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-Some claim that the court's ruins

-can still be seen.

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-I've joined Dr Mike Roberts from

-Bangor University to find out more.

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-Photographs have been taken here

-at low tide...

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-..showing a specific grid pattern.

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-Straight lines and square angles.

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-Bangor University

-has special equipment...

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-..to make a 3D map of the seabed.

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-Due to changes in the sea level...

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-..we'll be the first to see...

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-..the current shape

-of the land underwater.

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-It's possible to get a detailed view

-of the area on the computer.

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-If there was a court here

-at one time, then we'll find it.

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-The picture is showing outlines

-of straight lines and square angles.

0:20:230:20:28

-It almost looks like the letter W.

0:20:280:20:32

-It looks as if it's been man made.

0:20:320:20:34

-Are these the ruins of Llys Helig?

0:20:350:20:37

-I don't think it's possible

-that this is the palace...

0:20:380:20:41

-..since the level of the sea...

0:20:410:20:43

-..has risen over a metre in more

-than 6,000 years.

0:20:440:20:50

-I'd say it's impossible.

0:20:500:20:52

-So this isn't a palace?

0:20:520:20:53

-So this isn't a palace?

-

-No, this isn't a palace, sorry.

0:20:530:20:56

-We've come all the way

-from Puffin Island for nothing.

0:20:570:21:01

-No, it's impossible.

0:21:010:21:03

-We'd have to go back

-thousands of years...

0:21:030:21:06

-..for the sea level

-to be low enough.

0:21:070:21:09

-6,000-8,000.

0:21:090:21:12

-Mike doesn't believe that a palace

-could've been built here...

0:21:120:21:17

-..for many thousands of years.

0:21:180:21:21

-Legend has it that Llys Helig

-was flooded in the sixth century.

0:21:220:21:27

-To support Mike's argument,

-he's given me this.

0:21:270:21:30

-Essentially,

-it serves as a time machine.

0:21:300:21:33

-It's a sample

-from the seabed of the Menai area.

0:21:340:21:39

-If you imagine we're here, we travel

-back in time, 1,000, 2,000...

0:21:390:21:45

-..3,000, 4,000 years and so on,

0:21:450:21:48

-It's a light colour on top...

0:21:480:21:53

-..representing a time when

-this places was underwater.

0:21:530:21:57

-It contains sand and mud and so on.

0:21:570:22:00

-Further back in time and at the

-bottom here is a peaty material...

0:22:000:22:04

-..with seeds and so on.

0:22:040:22:06

-But the key thing is this.

0:22:080:22:10

-When it goes from light to dark,

-it goes from being sea to land.

0:22:110:22:15

-We're talking

-at least 5,000 years ago.

0:22:160:22:20

-If you wanted to build

-a palace or a court...

0:22:200:22:23

-..in this area, you would've had to

-have done it a very long time ago.

0:22:230:22:30

-Back to the Menai, between the

-alleged Llys Helig and Anglesey...

0:22:320:22:37

-..is this sandy expanse

-called Traeth Lafan.

0:22:370:22:40

-Nobody so far has come up with an

-adequate explanation for the name.

0:22:430:22:47

-It might be a first name...

0:22:480:22:50

-..though people have associated

-the word with llafan, a seaweed...

0:22:500:22:54

-..and the word wylofain (weeping).

0:22:550:22:57

-It's difficult to accept

-those explanations...

0:22:580:23:01

-..though I have to admit...

0:23:010:23:04

-..there were certainly times when

-a person may have felt like weeping.

0:23:040:23:09

-Having said that, efforts have been

-made to preserve the old names...

0:23:090:23:14

-..and transfer them

-to the next generation.

0:23:140:23:17

-What we can be sure of, as we

-leave Anglesey for the mainland...

0:23:180:23:22

-..is that the coastal names

-will continue to evolve...

0:23:220:23:26

-..as they absorb

-a variety of influences.

0:23:270:23:31

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:23:560:23:58

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0:23:580:23:58

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