West Dorset A Taste of Britain


West Dorset

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Transcript


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He's Brian Turner.

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And she's Janet Street-Porter

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I'm passionate about walking.

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These feet have taken me the length and breadth of Great Britain.

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I've been privileged to cook all around the world

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but it's Britain that I love,

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fabulous produce, great ingredients, right here on the doorstep.

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We're joining forces to explore Britain's rich heritage.

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And the landscape that's given us such wonderful produce.

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He's in charge of the food.

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And guess what, she's in charge of everything else.

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This is...

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A Taste Of Britain.

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Today, our culinary and cultural voyage of discovery

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brings us to West Dorset,

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one of the most breathtaking and diverse regions in the UK.

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This pair of fossils feel right at home

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as we explore the area's ancient Jurassic coast.

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-Oh!

-Oh, my goodness me.

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So this is part of an ichthyosaur's jaw.

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-And those are the teeth?

-Yeah, these...

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-Look, bigger than mine.

-No, not quite.

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-Ah!

-'I get my claws into some of West Dorset's finest produce...'

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-Is that quite a big one or...?

-Who does that remind you of, Brian?

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You. THEY LAUGH

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'..and a surprise extra ingredient.'

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BOTH: Whelks.

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'We pay a visit to a butcher's shop,

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'so old Henry VIII could have done his shopping here.'

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Anne Boleyn was born in 1515.

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You didn't turn her head into a faggot, did you?

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-BRIAN LAUGHS

-No, there wouldn't have...

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There wouldn't have been enough meat on it, Janet.

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'One of West Dorset's most exciting young chefs

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'shows me his exotic take on local seafood.'

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This is the interesting bit, this is wasabi.

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I've never seen it grown in this country.

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No, it's the only farm in Europe.

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'And we get to snoop around a Tudor landmark.'

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Henry VIII built this.

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'The impressive Portland Castle.'

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'And along the way, I'll be gathering inspiration

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'for a celebratory dish

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'that I think represents the very best of West Dorset's

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'bounteous larder.'

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-Vegetarians, eat your heart out.

-THEY CHUCKLE

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Here we are in Lyme Regis, right on the harbour wall.

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Look at that, the Jurassic Coast.

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It's England's first natural World Heritage site.

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Well, the beautiful thing for me is that, here on the harbour,

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they bring in great local fresh fish and shellfish.

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It'd be good to see what they've landed today.

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See that Cobb wall? That's protecting the harbour.

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Everybody saw it in the film French Lieutenant's Woman.

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Over there to the east,

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I'm told there's the oldest family butcher in the UK.

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They've been using the same sausage recipe since 1515.

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But, what really interests me about here,

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is that they breed longhorn cattle

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in the beautiful village of Abbotsbury

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and I can't wait to taste it.

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You know what Jane Austen said about Lyme Regis,

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"It's a strange stranger that doesn't appreciate its charms".

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HE LAUGHS

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I'm talking about literature and you're talking about sausages.

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-Yeah.

-What does that say?

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The main part of the Lyme Regis harbour wall,

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known as The Cobb,

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is at least 700 years old.

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Fisherman Barry Wason has been in love with the sea

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ever since getting his own boat at just 11 years old.

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For the last 42 years he's been fishing Lyme Regis

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for everything from cod to crabs.

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But, today, I'm after one of my favourite maritime ingredients,

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lobster.

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Fantastic lobsters there.

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-Is there a size that you can't take?

-Yeah.

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Yes, there is.

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Um, it's... I think it's 85ml.

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We measure them from the eye socket

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to the back of the head.

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-Oh, right.

-I've got a measure here.

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Oh!

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That there, from there to there.

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That's the measurement.

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Yeah. You stick that by the eye socket...

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-Oh!

-..and back to there.

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And if that head comes less than that...

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-You can't...

-..you've got to chuck them back.

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Is that quite a big one or...?

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-Who does that remind you of, Brian?

-You.

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SHE LAUGHS

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-That's quite a good one, isn't it?

-Yeah.

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Well, how far out do you go to get those?

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-You can catch these just off the rocks here.

-BOTH: Oh, really?

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Yeah, but those there come from about, uh, five mile out.

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Have you got special spots that you go to that you've got the pots down?

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-Yeah.

-Yeah. Do you keep it top secret

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cos you don't want anyone else to go there?

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No, they all follow.

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ALL LAUGH

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And is there any danger that lobsters will get fished out,

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because so many of our marine stocks are getting depleted now?

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No cha... I don't think so.

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We're catching so...so many juvenile ones.

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-Yeah.

-And if they've got eggs, we've got to chuck them back.

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-Yeah. So you're preserving them.

-Yeah.

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-Er...

-Do you get other fish as well?

-Yeah.

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What's your top other catch?

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-Whelks.

-Whelks!?

-Whelks?

-Yeah.

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What do you do with your whelks?

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Well, we land them and they go -

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cooked, shelled, and then they're shipped to Korea.

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-Can I see your whelks?

-Yeah.

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-Cos I've only ever seen...

-On the boat.

-I only ever see whelks...

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-You're not...

-..in vinegar.

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And I personally can't cope with shellfish in vinegar.

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-I love them in vinegar.

-Do you want me to get some of these whelks?

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-Yeah, get me a whelk.

-All right.

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When you were a child, you must have had whelks in vinegar, that's how...

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My mother ate whelks, my dad ate whelks, my sister ate whelks...

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-OK.

-I hate whelks.

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Does that make you so different? I mean, you are different...

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No, it makes me someone who doesn't want to be associated

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with working class food.

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THEY LAUGH

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There you go.

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I reckon, chopped up,

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that would be really, really delicious.

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I'd make them into a seafood sauce.

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-Do they get a good price?

-When he's not looking,

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give me a couple of whelks to take home.

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-Yeah.

-We came here to get lobsters, did we not, dear lady?

-Yes.

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-So come on. Let's go and let's sort out these lobsters.

-Barry.

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-Oh, come on.

-Barry, Barry, Barry.

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Can you carry them?

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You'll be all right.

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-Ta-ra.

-Bye.

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I'm really looking forward to tasting Barry's luscious lobster.

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I'm going to serve it in garlic and herb butter

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and then, just for you, Janet, I'll throw a few whelks in.

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Thanks, Brian.

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I'm using a lobster that's already been cooked in a stock

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with lemon rind, thyme

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and black peppercorns and bay leaves. So aromatic!

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I want to show you something simple today.

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I'm just going to reheat it.

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-Normally you reheat it on a barbecue...

-Yeah.

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..or in an oven. I'm going to reheat it on the stove top over here.

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What you need to do first, you take off...

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-the two claws, OK?

-Yeah.

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I'll take those out the shell in a minute.

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And then we split this...

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..down the middle.

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Try and keep it whole.

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So it just makes better for...

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presentation.

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-Right.

-Now, that's where you come across your first little bit.

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Take the meat out.

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I've kept this nicely underdone.

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So you make sure you don't overcook this.

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-We split it, separate all of this now, OK?

-Yeah.

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Whatever you do, don't throw the carcasses away. It makes...

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-Oh, no, you can boil them up, can't you?

-Great stock.

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Absolutely lovely stock.

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Take these out...

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..carefully. And now, this is when you have to be a bit careful, OK?

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So, you can give it one almighty thwack

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-but you get shell everywhere.

-I usually use the rolling pin...

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-There we go.

-..and imagine it's someone who's annoyed me.

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BRIAN LAUGHS Do I come into that category?

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No, no, no. You're all right.

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That's really what you want.

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-Yeah.

-Two of those, OK?

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I'm going to, very quickly, put some butter into this pan over here.

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I'm just going to reheat it gently, OK?

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Cos I'm going to serve this warm today. I think that'd be nice.

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So that goes in there.

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Just put a little bit of chicken stock in there,

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just to give it a bit of steam.

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Put that on top there.

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Right, now, so we just need something to serve it with.

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Yeah, I want to taste a whelk.

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OK, right. So, we got some whelks here, look.

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So these are the whelks that we got from Barry, OK?

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-Yeah.

-Like the ones you had. Just very carefully...

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Just...pull them out.

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And I'm just going to quickly chop up quite a few.

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Those are ready to use as soon as you want them.

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In this pan, I'm going to put some butter

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and a little bit of garlic and shallots.

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I want to just soften this, but not cook it, OK?

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I've chopped that.

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Let me take a little bit of gem lettuce.

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Shredded lettuce goes in there.

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Okey-cokey. And I've got some watercress.

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-Not picking the stalks out?

-No, the stalks are good for you.

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So, what we need now quickly is a bit of salad dressing.

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We've got some English mustard, we've got some white wine vinegar.

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-Yeah.

-Give it a stir. Very simple.

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A bit of olive oil and a bit of groundnut oil.

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About four to one...

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..of the oil to the vinegar.

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The dressing goes into the salad. We give it a bit of a stir.

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Just lovely there.

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So, all I need to do now is to put this back together again.

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The thing about this is, you put it in the wrong piece of shell,

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so, as it went that way in,

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-it goes...that one goes in, OK?

-Yeah.

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And you put that on the plate.

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Good so far.

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Then we got two claws.

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-Yeah.

-One goes on there.

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One goes on here.

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And it's almost ready.

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Salad, potatoes, lobster. We just need the one thing now.

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Whelks, whelks, whelks!.

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We need the whelks, you're quite right.

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-Warm them up in the butter...

-Yeah.

-..like that.

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A bit of chopped parsley.

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Oh, look at that.

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So, all we need to do now is to put

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our whelks at that end there.

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So there you have it, my lady -

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a little lobster with a salad of watercress,

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new potatoes,

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but, just for you,

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a whelk and garlic butter on top.

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-Have a try.

-Hooray.

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ALL CHEER

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I can't wait.

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-Right, am I eating this?

-Yeah, yeah.

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Mmm.

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I love lobster.

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I want to eat a whelk.

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Do you know what I think that needs?

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-What?

-A touch of vinegar.

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Eating these whelks, er, is a bit sad for me,

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cos I wish my dad was still alive,

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because, on Saturdays they used to eat whelks

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and I never, ever would eat them

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because they always had vinegar in them.

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And if only dad could have had whelks done like this.

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You'd have had some as well?

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Lobster and whelks by the sea.

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Oh, thanks, Brian.

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Now, I can't possibly come to West Dorset

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without getting my fix of history,

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and what better place than the Jurassic Coast?

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Geologist Paddy Howe spends his days with ancient fossils,

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so is the perfect person to look after Brian and me.

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So what kind of rocks are we looking for, Paddy?

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-Stones a bit like...a bit like this.

-Yeah.

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It's a hard, light grey limestone,

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very smooth, very flat, er,

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we break these open.

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About one in five or one in six will have a fossil inside.

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-Oh, really?

-Yeah.

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-That one's no good, that's too round.

-OK.

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They tend to be much flatter than that.

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-Right.

-Look for something flat like the top of your head.

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BRIAN LAUGHS

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How's about that then, Paddy?

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Yeah, that's better. Yeah, that's the sort of thing.

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-I found that.

-All right, OK.

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So, this coast line obviously is world famous for its fossils,

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but what period are we looking at?

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Most of these rocks are from the early Jurassic,

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they're about 200 million years old.

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-200 million years old?

-Crikey, Moses.

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Well, that's older than me.

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-Yeah, a bit like that one.

-That one.

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Yeah, that's the right sort of stone.

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A bit of a fossil there. That white piece is part of an ammonite.

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Where? It's a what?

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There. That one's broken but there may be better ones inside.

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Right, I'm holding on to that.

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I know it's a World Heritage site,

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but does that make it OK to pick up stones and have a look at them?

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-All the things which are loose on the beach...

-Yeah.

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..if we don't collect them, the sea will destroy them all

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and that would be a shame. So it's far better we collect them

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and learn something from them.

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Now, Lyme Regis is famous for fossils,

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but wasn't it one woman in the early 19th century

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that really put it on the map?

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Yeah, Mary Anning, the celebrated local fossil hunter.

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An amazing woman.

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Was she taken seriously by geologists internationally?

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-BRIAN LAUGHS

-She wasn't recognised really during her lifetime, er,

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she wasn't...allowed to be a member of various associations

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because they were men only.

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Yeah, women didn't do that sort of thing at that time,

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especially working class women.

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You know, so, it was unheard of.

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So, what kind of fossils did she find?

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Erm, along with her brother Joseph

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she found the first ichthyosaur skeleton...

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and I've got some ichthyosaur fossils here.

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THEY GASP Oh, my goodness me.

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So, this is part of an ichthyosaur's jaw.

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-There's another piece.

-And those are teeth?

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-Yeah, these pieces fit together.

-Look, bigger than mine.

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-No, not quite.

-Hah!

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You weren't supposed to say that, Brian.

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Erm, that is fantastic.

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Er, this piece fits onto the end.

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Would you have found that inside a rock,

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or was that just lying on the beach?

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Right, this particular one was just lying on the beach

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-about 50 metres from where we are now.

-No!

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So, look at all these people who are out today,

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obviously they're all hoping they're going to find something like this.

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-That's the kind of thing everyone's after.

-I've still got my stone.

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Do you think it's, like, not looking very promising?

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It's not one of the best sorts of stone.

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Are you saying that my rock's rubbish?

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It's not the best. There might be something inside.

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-I'll crack this one open.

-Right.

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Oh, crikey, and it cracked straightaway.

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Oh, look at that! There's nothing in there.

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It's like a lucky dip. Right, I've scored nought.

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-Right.

-That's got nothing in it, I know it hasn't.

-We don't know that.

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-Nah, nothing really there.

-Nothing.

-No.

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All right, all right, you were nothing as well.

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All right, what have you got?

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Now, you found this. Do you think there might be something in there?

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Look he's got one on the outside anyway, look.

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Yeah, sometimes you get squashed ones on the outside.

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Um, again that won't be any good

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but, again, it tells you there may be better ones inside.

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-Oh!

-Ooh, look at that!

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So, yeah, perfectly good ammonite. That's the shell.

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The shell comes away with the stone.

0:15:010:15:02

That's the filler. That's calcite crystal

0:15:020:15:04

that's grown inside the empty shell and it's formed a natural cast.

0:15:040:15:07

So it's interesting, isn't it, that Mary Anning started here

0:15:090:15:12

in the early 19th century.

0:15:120:15:13

And here we are today,

0:15:130:15:15

literally thousands of people still carrying on her work.

0:15:150:15:18

Yeah, people come from all over the world, not just Britain.

0:15:180:15:21

You know, Lyme Regis is world famous for its fossils.

0:15:210:15:24

Mary Anning really helped

0:15:240:15:25

to kick start the science of palaeontology.

0:15:250:15:27

Erm, and so, yeah, this...this is her legacy.

0:15:270:15:29

Well, I'm going to continue with her legacy

0:15:290:15:31

and hope I have a bit more success.

0:15:310:15:33

With Janet hunting for more fossils, I'm on the hunt for more inspiration

0:15:360:15:40

for my taste of West Dorset.

0:15:400:15:42

So I'm off to Weymouth,

0:15:450:15:46

to one of the county's top restaurants.

0:15:460:15:48

Thanks to his Moroccan and Spanish heritage,

0:15:480:15:51

head chef, Taher Jibet,

0:15:510:15:52

puts his own exotic twist on locally sourced ingredients.

0:15:520:15:56

Taher, good morning. How are you?

0:15:570:15:58

-Very well, thank you, Brian.

-Good man.

0:15:580:16:00

So, what dish are you cooking for us today, sir?

0:16:000:16:02

-Today we're going to make a local sea bream, ceviche...

-Mm-hm.

0:16:020:16:05

..with Dorset wasabi

0:16:050:16:07

and sea bream crackling.

0:16:070:16:09

Fantastic.

0:16:090:16:10

And we've got... So much great seafood lands here in Weymouth.

0:16:110:16:15

Erm, it's a great little town for fish, definitely.

0:16:150:16:19

So we've just taken off the skin there, look.

0:16:190:16:21

Now, you made that look so easy, Taher.

0:16:210:16:23

-It...

-That is easy to do, is it not?

-It is, yeah, very much so.

0:16:230:16:27

Lots of years of...of practice.

0:16:280:16:32

So we've got our fish fillet in now, OK. Completely pin boned.

0:16:320:16:34

So, we're just going to grease the skin up a little bit,

0:16:340:16:38

just going to oil...the top.

0:16:380:16:40

And oil the tray.

0:16:420:16:43

-So, here I'm using Maldon Sea Salt Flakes.

-Yeah.

0:16:460:16:49

Er, I'm just going to get it flat...as possible.

0:16:490:16:53

A little bit of cracked pepper.

0:16:550:16:56

And some sesame seeds.

0:16:580:17:00

-Uh-huh, so, real crunchy bits.

-Yeah, loads of crunch.

-Yeah.

0:17:000:17:04

So, we get it to this stage and then we sort of press it, essentially.

0:17:040:17:07

-We'll put another tray on top...

-Right.

0:17:070:17:09

..so it doesn't bubble up and blister in the oven

0:17:090:17:11

-cos you want it to be nice and flat.

-Yeah.

0:17:110:17:13

About 200 degrees, 10-15 minutes.

0:17:130:17:16

OK, so what's the next stage?

0:17:160:17:18

Next stage is, you've got your nice fillet of bream all pin boned.

0:17:180:17:22

-OK, we're going to chop it, or dice it.

-Oh, right.

0:17:220:17:26

-This is cooked but without heat.

-Indeed, yes.

0:17:260:17:30

So the salt and the acid from the lime

0:17:300:17:33

will essentially cook this fish.

0:17:330:17:35

-Next up, we've got red onion.

-Yeah.

0:17:370:17:40

Chop that as finely as we can.

0:17:400:17:42

So what we've got here is the locally grown chilli.

0:17:440:17:46

It's not the Dorset Naga.

0:17:460:17:48

Oh, right, we... The Dorset Naga, I believe, is the second hottest.

0:17:480:17:52

-One of the hottest. It used to be the second hottest.

-Right.

0:17:520:17:55

-It's still one of the hottest chillies in the world.

-Really?

0:17:550:17:58

-Yeah.

-And they grow close to here?

-Very close, yeah.

0:17:580:18:01

This is the interesting bit, this is my wasabi.

0:18:040:18:07

So, whereabouts is that exactly grown?

0:18:070:18:09

-Wareham, not far from here at all.

-I've never seen it grown in this country.

0:18:090:18:12

-No, it's the only farm in Europe.

-Oh, fantastic.

-Yeah.

0:18:120:18:15

So, really local produce, guv'nor.

0:18:150:18:17

Very local, very local. Almost as local as the fish.

0:18:170:18:20

So, in a...a circular motion like so.

0:18:210:18:26

And you've got your wasabi grated off there.

0:18:290:18:31

So, we're going to add that wasabi.

0:18:310:18:34

Just going to add a bit of coriander for a bit of freshness,

0:18:370:18:40

lift the dish up a little bit.

0:18:400:18:42

-So, with the coriander, I always use everything.

-Yeah.

0:18:420:18:46

Stalks, the lot.

0:18:460:18:47

For me, most of the flavour is in the stalk.

0:18:480:18:51

OK, so that goes in as well.

0:18:510:18:54

And a lime.

0:18:540:18:56

So I'm just going to squeeze that in there.

0:18:560:18:58

Give that a good mix.

0:18:590:19:01

Lovely colours.

0:19:030:19:05

So, er, yeah, we just leave that for 15 minutes.

0:19:050:19:09

What I'm also going to make is a...

0:19:090:19:11

-Uh-huh!

-..a dressing.

0:19:130:19:15

-Right.

-Again, from the wasabi.

0:19:150:19:18

-OK, so this is going to pack a fair amount of heat.

-Sure.

0:19:180:19:22

OK, so, going to get...

0:19:220:19:23

OK.

0:19:270:19:28

So, it's going to go in there.

0:19:290:19:32

Bit like mayonnaise. So, vinegar.

0:19:320:19:34

-Is that white wine vinegar?

-White wine vinegar, yeah.

0:19:340:19:37

With this mayonnaise... I learnt this as a boy in Spain.

0:19:370:19:40

-Oh, right.

-Um, no eggs in this mayonnaise..

0:19:400:19:43

-..at all.

-I was looking when you said that.

0:19:440:19:46

-No. No eggs. Milk, just milk.

-Okey-cokey.

0:19:460:19:49

So, milk, vinegar. I've put the wasabi in there.

0:19:490:19:52

OK. And...

0:19:520:19:54

MACHINE WHIRRS

0:19:550:19:56

LIQUID RUSHES

0:20:000:20:02

MACHINE STOPS

0:20:040:20:06

Now, I am intrigued, is that groundnut oil?

0:20:060:20:08

-No.

-What is it?

0:20:080:20:09

That is pomace oil.

0:20:090:20:11

-Pomace oil?

-Yeah.

-OK, right. So what happens next, chef?

0:20:110:20:13

Ready to plate.

0:20:130:20:14

Let's do it.

0:20:140:20:15

That does look beautiful.

0:20:180:20:20

The colours are fantastic. But, what I like about it,

0:20:200:20:22

it's all local produce but with an exotic theme.

0:20:220:20:26

Being half Moroccan myself and growing up with spices

0:20:260:20:30

-and exotic foods...

-Yeah.

0:20:300:20:31

..that's what I love about food...

0:20:310:20:34

is the aromatics, the spices.

0:20:340:20:36

And I try and bring them into my restaurant,

0:20:360:20:40

into my food, into my menus, my dishes, as much as I can,

0:20:400:20:43

Erm, and just tweaking normal dishes either with local produce...

0:20:440:20:49

A bit of that dressing.

0:20:520:20:53

DOOR CLATTERS

0:20:580:20:59

This is really a garnish just to tweak the dish a bit,

0:21:000:21:03

-make it a bit of crunch.

-Of course.

0:21:030:21:05

Essentially, this is like crackling

0:21:050:21:08

but with skin. Fish skin.

0:21:080:21:09

-I never thought of it like that.

-Yeah.

0:21:090:21:11

I'm just going to grab a couple of pea shoots.

0:21:110:21:13

And there's my dish.

0:21:150:21:16

Taher has made a locally-caught sea bream ceviche

0:21:180:21:21

with Dorset wasabi dressing.

0:21:210:21:23

And there's someone already chomping at the bit to get stuck in.

0:21:230:21:27

-SHOUTS: Right, where is it?

-It's coming.

0:21:270:21:31

There you go. So that's my sea bream ceviche with Dorset wasabi

0:21:360:21:40

and sea bream crackling.

0:21:400:21:42

-Enjoy.

-Thank you.

-Thank you.

0:21:420:21:44

It's really fresh.

0:21:520:21:53

It's terrific.

0:21:560:21:57

Mmm.

0:21:590:22:01

It just takes that little moment to just grow those flavours, don't they?

0:22:020:22:06

Now, what about this? That's the skin. Oh!

0:22:060:22:09

-The skin, yes. Yeah, yeah.

-Yeah.

0:22:090:22:11

I grill my smoked salmon skins.

0:22:110:22:13

-Yeah, it's a great technique he uses.

-Hmm.

0:22:130:22:15

What a great combination.

0:22:190:22:22

Do you know why I like it?

0:22:220:22:24

I've got no idea how to do it.

0:22:240:22:26

THEY LAUGH

0:22:260:22:27

And I think that is terrific.

0:22:270:22:29

I love how Taher has made such a delicious, exotic dish

0:22:310:22:35

using only produce grown in Dorset,

0:22:350:22:37

even the wasabi.

0:22:370:22:39

For the next leg of our exploration of West Dorset,

0:22:550:22:58

Janet's taking me up the coast to Bridport,

0:22:580:23:00

to a rather special butcher.

0:23:000:23:02

One famous for more than just their faggots.

0:23:030:23:06

-Hello.

-Hello, Janet.

0:23:080:23:09

Now, are you really the oldest butchers?

0:23:090:23:14

-Not just the oldest butchers...

-Yeah, you don't look that old.

0:23:140:23:17

..England's oldest family business,

0:23:170:23:19

499 years old.

0:23:190:23:21

So it's very much always from this area.

0:23:210:23:23

-You're the historian.

-Yeah.

0:23:230:23:25

Was that in the reign of Henry VIII?

0:23:250:23:28

-Henry VIII.

-Yeah.

-Really?

0:23:280:23:29

Anne Boleyn was born in 1515.

0:23:290:23:32

You didn't turn her head into a faggot, did you?

0:23:320:23:34

-BRIAN LAUGHS

-No, there wouldn't have... Wouldn't have been enough meat on it, Janet.

0:23:340:23:37

SHE LAUGHS

0:23:370:23:39

Now, are there some things you sell now

0:23:400:23:44

that you can trace back to Tudor England?

0:23:440:23:47

Well, two of our oldest recipes are our home recipe faggots

0:23:470:23:51

and our English pork sausages

0:23:510:23:53

which have been in the family for a very long time.

0:23:530:23:56

And obviously those recipes are top secret.

0:23:560:23:59

What's a faggot?

0:23:590:24:01

A faggot, basically, is a cooked meatball.

0:24:010:24:04

It's pork, liver, sage, onion and potato.

0:24:040:24:07

What's that wrapped around the faggot?

0:24:070:24:09

What's wrapped around the faggot is the pig's...

0:24:090:24:13

It's a pig's caul, which is a...

0:24:130:24:15

-It's a sort of...

-Stomach lining, is it not?

-Yes, it is.

0:24:150:24:19

It's a little fat membrane which keeps the faggot together really.

0:24:190:24:23

And unless that's got fat on it,

0:24:230:24:25

which a lot of faggots don't these days, it's not really a faggot.

0:24:250:24:28

That is the traditional way of doing a faggot.

0:24:280:24:30

-Is that a faggot there?

-Yes.

0:24:300:24:31

-That's a cooked one?

-Yes.

-Can I taste it?

-You can.

0:24:310:24:34

Go on, then. But remember, normally, you should eat these with gravy.

0:24:350:24:38

-Usually... They've been cooked today.

-Right.

0:24:380:24:41

But you'd normally have it with gravy and mushy peas.

0:24:410:24:44

And what it will do, it'll make you see in the dark, make your hair curl

0:24:440:24:48

-and put hairs on your chest.

-You sound like my mother.

0:24:480:24:50

-As a woman, you probably don't want that.

-I don't want the hairs, no.

0:24:500:24:53

Curly hair...no, don't want that either.

0:24:530:24:56

-Some people fry that.

-What have you got in it, white pepper?

0:25:000:25:02

-A bit of pepper in there, yeah.

-Yeah, white pepper.

-Yeah.

0:25:020:25:05

Some people fry it and they do it in a...

0:25:050:25:07

Heat it like that and make faggot sandwiches.

0:25:070:25:09

Other people, uh, boil it up with mash.

0:25:090:25:12

It's great. I'll tell you why I like it.

0:25:120:25:15

I was prepared to loathe it.

0:25:150:25:16

-I don't know what I thought it was.

-Yeah.

0:25:160:25:18

-Some second division version of a haggis.

-Yeah.

0:25:180:25:21

Well, they say haggis is similar,

0:25:210:25:23

-but it's a lot more peppery.

-No, it's different.

0:25:230:25:25

Yeah, it's a lot more peppery, a haggis. But, I mean, that is lovely.

0:25:250:25:29

I mean, we sell 4, 5, 600 of them every week.

0:25:290:25:33

Just depends on the weather and everything else, but, uh, yeah.

0:25:330:25:36

So, you've got a lot of people walking around Bridport

0:25:360:25:39

who see in the dark?

0:25:390:25:40

Oh, yeah, yeah. Well, Bridport's a bit like that.

0:25:400:25:42

-Can we taste the sausages, please?.

-You can taste the sausages, yeah.

0:25:440:25:47

Here we go, this is our traditional breakfast chipolata.

0:25:470:25:51

-You try them.

-Yeah.

0:25:510:25:52

Now, I take it that's the same recipe as the bigger sausages?

0:25:520:25:55

Yes, it is. It's exactly the same recipe,

0:25:550:25:57

it's just in a smaller intestine skin.

0:25:570:26:00

-Quite meaty, aren't they?

-They are.

0:26:010:26:03

There's a very high meat content. They're lovely.

0:26:030:26:05

Yeah, sometimes if you get a lot of meat, they're dry,

0:26:050:26:07

-but these aren't dry.

-Yeah. No, no, no.

0:26:070:26:09

Do you know what I like about those?

0:26:090:26:10

It's an all-round flavour.

0:26:100:26:12

-Yeah.

-And it's nice and meaty but, as you say, it's not dry.

0:26:120:26:15

-It's got a nice balance to it.

-Yeah.

-Very nice.

-Full bodied.

0:26:150:26:19

-Full bodied.

-Me?

0:26:190:26:20

Oh, that? Yeah, perfect.

0:26:200:26:22

Just like Brian in fact, aren't they?

0:26:220:26:24

You said it, Richard.

0:26:240:26:25

I still have to decide what to cook

0:26:300:26:32

for my celebratory taste of West Dorset...

0:26:320:26:35

..so I've come to the Longlands Farm in Littlebredy

0:26:360:26:38

to meet farmer John Barker

0:26:380:26:41

who's been farming Dorset longhorn cattle for around 25 years.

0:26:410:26:45

-They look quite aggressive with those horns.

-Of course, yeah.

0:26:490:26:52

But they're very relaxed really.

0:26:520:26:54

Yeah.

0:26:540:26:55

Is that part of what you like about these...

0:26:550:26:57

-Yeah, yeah.

-..these beasts?

0:26:570:26:59

-Yes, they're a typical traditional old English breed.

-Yeah.

0:26:590:27:03

-You said then that they're an old breed...

-Yes.

0:27:030:27:06

..but I read somewhere that they're the world's

0:27:060:27:09

oldest registered breed, is that right?

0:27:090:27:11

Yes, it is.

0:27:110:27:12

And it goes back to the 1700s.

0:27:120:27:15

Good Lord!

0:27:150:27:16

And, er, they were very popular in those days,

0:27:160:27:19

not purely for their beef,

0:27:190:27:22

but they were used for, uh...as oxen for...

0:27:220:27:26

-Pulling?

-Yes.

-Yeah.

0:27:260:27:27

And we have an animal over here which is part of the...

0:27:270:27:31

-the furniture now...

-BRIAN LAUGHS

0:27:310:27:34

..and he's typical of that...of the breed in that era.

0:27:340:27:38

So, here you see, Brian, another batch of longhorns,

0:27:420:27:46

and they're keeping this area quite tidy.

0:27:460:27:49

MOOING

0:27:490:27:50

-But they just look calm, docile animals...

-Yeah.

-They're not.

0:27:500:27:54

They are normally calm and docile, yes.

0:27:540:27:56

They're not as, uh,

0:27:560:27:58

what we call "quick" as some of the breeds.

0:27:580:28:02

How old are those?

0:28:020:28:03

These would be round about 18 months to 24 months.

0:28:030:28:07

-And you keep them how long?

-For about 30 months.

0:28:070:28:09

These are slow maturing, these animals.

0:28:090:28:12

And they like this kind of habitat really.

0:28:120:28:14

Of course, in my way of life,

0:28:140:28:16

I'm really interested in what they eat.

0:28:160:28:18

-You've obviously eaten plenty of it.

-Yes.

-What's the quality?

0:28:180:28:21

Very flavoursome beef.

0:28:210:28:22

-They don't have a lot of top fat but it's marbled.

-Oh, right.

0:28:220:28:25

So the fat is running through the, er, through the flesh.

0:28:250:28:28

But that's the big secret that people don't often see.

0:28:280:28:31

-They like to see this wonderful red colour...

-That's right.

0:28:310:28:34

-..but that's not right.

-No, no.

-You want a deeper colour...

0:28:340:28:37

-Correct.

-..and that marbling in there.

0:28:370:28:39

-So it's a wonderful little ecological world here...

-Yes.

0:28:390:28:43

-..that is nicely balanced.

-Correct.

0:28:430:28:45

But that must give great flavour to the beef.

0:28:450:28:47

Well, we think it does, that's correct, but, um,

0:28:470:28:51

-but then we may be biased to...

-Well, you've convinced me already.

0:28:510:28:55

And I've got to come up with this regional celebratory dish,

0:28:550:28:59

and I'm thinking that

0:28:590:29:00

if I can get a nice piece of beef from your longhorns...

0:29:000:29:04

-Right.

-But preferably some ribeye cos that's got nice fat through it

0:29:040:29:07

-and marbled nicely.

-Yeah.

0:29:070:29:08

-Fantastic. So I'm going to cook that, then you must taste it.

-Lovely.

0:29:080:29:11

-I'd look forward to that.

-Good man.

0:29:110:29:13

I'm really excited to be creating my own special dish

0:29:130:29:17

for West Dorset, using John's longhorn beef.

0:29:170:29:20

Brian's tracked down his produce

0:29:260:29:28

and I've found the perfect place to cook it -

0:29:280:29:31

the impressive 16th century Portland Castle.

0:29:310:29:35

Now, Brian, I'm passionate about Tudor history

0:29:370:29:39

and I've ploughed all the way through Hilary Mantel's Wolf Hall,

0:29:390:29:44

-so I've brought you here because Henry VIII built this.

-Oh, yeah?

0:29:440:29:49

Right, Brian, this was a fort,

0:29:490:29:51

so, to stop anyone rushing in and trying to kill you,

0:29:510:29:54

they built the entrance as a dogleg corridor.

0:29:540:29:57

So it's at two angles so you couldn't fire at me with your gun.

0:29:570:30:01

Oh. It's very clever, in't it, eh?

0:30:010:30:04

This is the kitchen,

0:30:080:30:11

and this structure was a garrison.

0:30:110:30:12

And Henry VIII built a whole series of them

0:30:120:30:15

around the southeast of England because he was always frightened

0:30:150:30:18

of being invaded by both France and Spain.

0:30:180:30:21

And we know, with all the wives coming and going, that was...

0:30:210:30:23

a big possibility.

0:30:230:30:25

So there were about 15 blokes in here,

0:30:250:30:28

garrisoned here. And this is where they ate.

0:30:280:30:31

And look how thick the walls are, it's amazing.

0:30:350:30:37

-Good Lord, that is 10-foot thick, is that.

-Yeah.

0:30:390:30:42

Could have a party in here and nobody would hear.

0:30:420:30:45

Do you want to see some weapons?

0:30:450:30:46

I would love to do, yes. I'll follow you, you know where we're going.

0:30:460:30:49

Well, these are the cannons.

0:30:540:30:56

They're replicas but they're pretty impressive all the same.

0:30:560:30:58

Oh, yeah. All right.

0:30:580:31:00

And there were five on this level and more on the level above,

0:31:000:31:03

and the actual gunners slept over there in little wooden hut things

0:31:030:31:08

but they looked really...

0:31:080:31:09

The lines of sight are terrific, you can see for miles.

0:31:090:31:13

-Oh, yeah.

-But, you know what?

0:31:130:31:15

This fort was only actually ever used in battle

0:31:150:31:19

between the Royalists and Parliamentarians in the Civil War.

0:31:190:31:23

-There's a load of...

-Whatever happened to

0:31:230:31:24

the French and Spanish then?

0:31:240:31:26

Well, they obviously knew it was there and got scared off.

0:31:260:31:29

HE LAUGHS Well, that's not a bad thing.

0:31:290:31:31

Fantastic views here out over Portland Harbour

0:31:360:31:40

which, of course, has been used for centuries as a safe anchorage.

0:31:400:31:45

Yeah.

0:31:450:31:46

And this fort is made of Portland stone.

0:31:460:31:51

It's still really, erm, highly prized today.

0:31:510:31:54

It's a fantastic stone. It's so white, isn't it?

0:31:540:31:57

The last time this fort was used in a war

0:31:570:32:00

was during World War II.

0:32:000:32:02

It was an operations centre for planning the D-Day landing.

0:32:020:32:06

-So this has seen bags of history?

-Absolutely.

0:32:060:32:09

It's time I tried to make a bit of history myself

0:32:140:32:16

by cooking up a dish that perfectly summarises the larder of West Dorset.

0:32:160:32:21

And where better than on the castle battlements?

0:32:210:32:25

I'm so excited.

0:32:250:32:27

John, who's sitting over there, there he is,

0:32:270:32:29

farmed this wonderful longhorn beef.

0:32:290:32:31

Now, I don't know it that well

0:32:310:32:33

but I'm told it's going to be the finest steak we have ever eaten.

0:32:330:32:37

I'm cooking a ribeye of longhorn beef with herbs,

0:32:380:32:42

mustard and garlic butter, and duck fat potato wedges.

0:32:420:32:45

That's what we're going to do. Going to keep it really nice and simple.

0:32:460:32:49

But what I thought we'd do to make it slightly different

0:32:490:32:52

is do a double steak,

0:32:520:32:53

so it's like a bigger piece of meat which you share.

0:32:530:32:56

-And we'll carve it, so firstly...

-So Yorkshire size?

0:32:560:32:58

-Exactly right. Yes, yes. So, look, two pieces...

-Yeah.

0:32:580:33:01

..and a bit.

0:33:010:33:03

Once you've cut it...

0:33:030:33:04

you're in. Two pieces and a bit.

0:33:040:33:08

-That is just...

-What's the bit for?

0:33:080:33:10

-Seconds?

-Well, it's just that bit extra, yeah.

0:33:100:33:12

And it's... Look at that.

0:33:120:33:13

That's a... Ah, it's a fantastic-looking piece of meat.

0:33:130:33:16

Just look at the actual marbling through it all.

0:33:160:33:18

And this is ribeye.

0:33:180:33:20

So it's got that wonderful piece of fat in there

0:33:200:33:22

which just really gives it flavour.

0:33:220:33:24

-So, what I'm going to do...

-Yeah.

0:33:240:33:26

I'm going to put a bit of duck fat in there, OK?

0:33:260:33:28

We've got rosemary, we've got some lemon thyme,

0:33:280:33:32

we've got oregano spilling out there,

0:33:320:33:35

and we got some real thyme as well. Lovely!

0:33:350:33:37

And, what I'm going to do...

0:33:370:33:38

There's no real recipe here, just bags of herbs.

0:33:380:33:41

And the trick is just to leave it to marinade a little bit.

0:33:440:33:46

Oh, I can smell that from here. It's a fabulous smell.

0:33:460:33:49

Cor, brilliant, eh.

0:33:490:33:51

Fantastic. So we'll give that a bit of a stir round in there.

0:33:510:33:55

And I don't think you need to marinade it for too long

0:33:550:33:58

but probably 10 minutes, 15 minutes.

0:33:580:34:01

-A bit of salt and a bit of pepper...

-Yeah.

-..in there.

0:34:010:34:05

And this allows you to get the barbecue up and running,

0:34:050:34:08

ready to go. So...

0:34:080:34:10

that's looking OK. So let's get that on the go now.

0:34:100:34:14

Lift it up.

0:34:150:34:16

Stay.

0:34:160:34:17

-And then we'll just put this...

-You want it really hot, don't you?

0:34:180:34:21

You want it really hot. I'm going to tell you about that...

0:34:210:34:24

You can hear that it's really hot.

0:34:240:34:27

Don't you think, most people when they're barbecuing

0:34:270:34:30

are so keen to get going, they don't let it get hot enough?

0:34:300:34:33

That is... Do you know, you're absolutely spot on

0:34:330:34:36

but we're putting the lid down so it acts a little bit more

0:34:360:34:38

like an oven as well.

0:34:380:34:40

And as it's a very simple recipe, I'm going to actually do chips.

0:34:400:34:44

But we're going to do potato wedges.

0:34:440:34:46

-Everybody thinks of potato wedges that you buy.

-Yeah.

0:34:460:34:48

You don't need to buy them, just boil your own.

0:34:480:34:50

Maris Piper potatoes, something like that.

0:34:500:34:52

And then, we're going to cut them...

0:34:520:34:55

into wedges.

0:34:550:34:58

But, what I want to do,

0:34:580:35:00

is I want to use the duck fat to cook with.

0:35:000:35:03

Phew.

0:35:050:35:07

A lot of heat in there.

0:35:070:35:08

-See what it looks like?

-Yeah.

-Just look at that.

0:35:100:35:13

So we're going to turn it...

0:35:130:35:15

slightly.

0:35:150:35:17

Now, we've got a big crowd behind us here.

0:35:170:35:20

I hope you all like it not too well done.

0:35:200:35:23

Cos if you don't - tough!

0:35:250:35:27

-THEY CHUCKLE

-You mean medium rare?

0:35:270:35:30

I mean medium rare, you're quite right.

0:35:300:35:32

-If you say medium rare, people get frightened.

-Yeah.

-What we're going...

0:35:320:35:35

The thing about any meats like this is,

0:35:350:35:38

you can always put them on and cook them a little bit more.

0:35:380:35:41

You can't cook them less once it's cooked, OK?

0:35:410:35:45

So give... And let it rest after it's cooked,

0:35:450:35:47

that's also quite important.

0:35:470:35:49

So I'm going to put some of that duck fat in here

0:35:490:35:51

and I'm just going to dip these potatoes into duck fat.

0:35:510:35:55

Now, they... If you're careful that you don't have too much duck fat

0:35:550:35:58

on at a time.

0:35:580:35:59

Otherwise, it'll start to flare the whole thing

0:35:590:36:01

and you'll get them too much coloured and too charred,

0:36:010:36:04

which we don't really want.

0:36:040:36:06

They are just cooked, so quickly put those on there as well.

0:36:060:36:10

And I think you'll find that these work best round the outside

0:36:100:36:14

where it's not quite as hot.

0:36:140:36:16

That way they don't cook too quickly and don't flare,

0:36:160:36:19

cos it's not quite as hot round the outside.

0:36:190:36:21

As you know, I always like to have a bit of butter with my meat.

0:36:240:36:29

That is more than a bit.

0:36:290:36:31

-I mean, that's for 26 of us, so it's OK.

-Yeah.

0:36:310:36:34

In here we're going to put some grain mustard, lovely texture.

0:36:340:36:39

Put that on there.

0:36:390:36:40

And then I'm going to chop capers. Oh, yeah. I love capers.

0:36:400:36:44

I love capers.

0:36:440:36:45

They've got a bit of vinegar. You're not great on that.

0:36:450:36:47

-Have you rinsed them?

-I have, yeah, but not a lot.

0:36:470:36:50

What's the point in rinsing all the flavour away?

0:36:500:36:53

OK, so, chop those up there

0:36:530:36:54

and then we'll chop a bit of garlic as well.

0:36:540:36:57

And then this chopped parsley to give it a bit of colour.

0:36:570:37:00

Go with our other herbs there.

0:37:010:37:03

Yeah.

0:37:030:37:04

Softened butter, mustard.

0:37:040:37:06

-So, what we do with this...

-Yeah.

0:37:080:37:10

..give it a good old stir.

0:37:100:37:12

And the nice thing about this is,

0:37:130:37:15

you can actually make this in advance if you want to do.

0:37:150:37:18

Put it in the fridge and then just pull it out whenever you need it.

0:37:180:37:22

Now we need to have a quick look at this over here.

0:37:220:37:25

Just keep our fingers crossed it's all going the right direction.

0:37:270:37:30

Oh, I tell you what.

0:37:320:37:33

Can you tell by pressing it?

0:37:360:37:37

Yeah. It's still a little bit on the under side.

0:37:370:37:41

This has got to be nice and simple, so we've got the herbs...

0:37:410:37:44

-Yeah.

-..around the beef.

0:37:440:37:46

We got those wonderful potatoes in a bit of duck fat.

0:37:460:37:48

I think one of the real tricks of cooking roast meat,

0:37:480:37:52

or barbecued meat,

0:37:520:37:53

is that you leave it to rest for three or four minutes.

0:37:530:37:57

Just make sure that the seagulls don't come down and nick it.

0:37:570:38:00

That's all we worry about.

0:38:000:38:02

So, I'm going to just now take a chance...

0:38:020:38:05

..that these lovely people really actually like it.

0:38:070:38:10

..nicely, on the medium-rare side.

0:38:110:38:13

-I definitely do, so can I have...

-You can.

-..my bit?

0:38:130:38:17

You can, so let me just...

0:38:170:38:18

Although I can't eat a whole bit to be honest.

0:38:180:38:20

I suspect you might.

0:38:200:38:22

Let me just put...

0:38:220:38:23

-..a bit of salt on there.

-OK.

0:38:250:38:26

Just for that last final minute,

0:38:260:38:29

it's not quite where I want it yet.

0:38:290:38:31

-I'm going to taste it.

-I'm going to take some of this butter...

0:38:310:38:34

and I'm going to put it into this pan here.

0:38:340:38:36

It will give it a bit of colour.

0:38:360:38:38

As well as a bit of bags of flavour there.

0:38:400:38:43

I can hear everybody chomping at the bit now, saying, "Where's my meat?"

0:38:440:38:48

So...

0:38:480:38:49

..we've got here...

0:38:510:38:52

Let's take the meat off.

0:38:520:38:54

Smells and looks fantastic.

0:38:570:39:00

It's hardly shrunk.

0:39:000:39:02

-Well, yeah, that's a good thing is that, i'nt it?

-Yeah, really good.

0:39:020:39:05

I did some potatoes in advance so we've got a few there.

0:39:050:39:09

And then we put our potatoes.

0:39:100:39:12

They look lovely, they do.

0:39:120:39:14

This is the exciting bit now. We find out how well done it is.

0:39:150:39:18

As I say, this will feed two people, two and a half people.

0:39:200:39:23

Just look at that.

0:39:260:39:27

Yeah.

0:39:270:39:28

That looks...delicioso.

0:39:280:39:31

Look how tender it is looking.

0:39:310:39:34

-It's cutting really easily.

-It's so tasty, it's like butter.

0:39:340:39:36

I can't say that cos you don't like butter, do you?

0:39:360:39:39

No, I like meat though.

0:39:390:39:40

OK, so there we have it.

0:39:400:39:42

OK.

0:39:420:39:44

Onto the plate.

0:39:440:39:45

It's that kind of sharing dish.

0:39:450:39:47

And now the butter's just starting to melt there,

0:39:470:39:50

so it's a lovely smell from this garlic butter here.

0:39:500:39:52

It smells fantastic.

0:39:520:39:54

I've got this marvellous piece of Dorset longhorn cattle.

0:39:540:39:58

What we want to do is to put a few...

0:40:020:40:04

..potatoes...

0:40:050:40:07

over here,

0:40:070:40:08

so, when you help yourself...

0:40:080:40:10

So, nice and hot. That's what I like.

0:40:110:40:14

Just a mixture of potato wedges.

0:40:140:40:17

A green salad to go with it.

0:40:180:40:20

And there you have it, young lady.

0:40:200:40:22

Just for you,

0:40:220:40:23

Dorset longhorn ribeye steak.

0:40:230:40:27

Brilliant!

0:40:270:40:28

Round of applause, I think. For Brian!

0:40:280:40:31

Oh, you are so sweet. Thank you.

0:40:310:40:32

Now, what do want to do? Do you want me to give you a little piece?

0:40:340:40:36

I want a rare bit out the middle.

0:40:360:40:38

It is so tender, this meat, I just...

0:40:380:40:39

Oh, look at that!

0:40:390:40:41

Brian, cut that bit in half for me.

0:40:410:40:43

Even my mouth's not that big.

0:40:440:40:46

Right.

0:40:460:40:47

-Mmm.

-The moment of truth.

0:40:500:40:52

-Ten out of ten.

-What about that?

0:40:550:40:58

Vegetarians, eat your heart out.

0:40:580:41:00

John and Patricia, why don't you come and have a taste, eh?

0:41:020:41:05

And a bit of potato to go with it.

0:41:050:41:07

-Help yourself.

-Mmm.

0:41:090:41:11

I hope that's done enough for you. Good lady, well done.

0:41:110:41:14

-Get in there, sir.

-Thank you.

-Mmm!

0:41:140:41:16

There's a piece left. I suppose you should have that.

0:41:200:41:22

-Yeah, thanks.

-So what did you think of that, Mrs Patricia?

0:41:220:41:25

Very good indeed.

0:41:250:41:26

Would you like to come and cook it for us at home?

0:41:260:41:28

-It would be my pleasure.

-Oh, good!

0:41:280:41:30

-John, what about you? Happy with that?

-Yes, excellent.

0:41:300:41:32

And yes, you could come and cook it for us at home by all means.

0:41:320:41:35

-What a nice man.

-Let's let everybody have a bit.

0:41:350:41:39

Okey-cokey.

0:41:390:41:41

All right, you lot, come on. Come and get it.

0:41:410:41:44

Am I handing it out or that's you? You going to hand it out?

0:41:440:41:47

-Right, OK. You...

-Will you excuse my fingers? That's for you.

0:41:470:41:50

And that's for you.

0:41:500:41:52

Are you going to taste it? Go on, taste it.

0:41:520:41:54

-Fingers, I'm afraid.

-That's all right, lass. Tastes better.

0:42:000:42:03

-It does. It's gorgeous.

-BOTH: Mmm.

0:42:030:42:05

It was lovely. I don't normally like it so rare

0:42:050:42:07

but it was actually really, really nice.

0:42:070:42:09

That is mouth-watering. It just melted in your mouth.

0:42:090:42:13

-Yeah, beautiful, juicy bit of meat, that was.

-Juicy bit of meat?

0:42:130:42:16

THEY LAUGH

0:42:160:42:18

-What do you think?

-Delicious.

0:42:180:42:20

-What do you think?

-Delicious.

0:42:200:42:23

Well, that was a great trip, that. There was lovely lobsters.

0:42:290:42:32

-Yeah. Whelks.

-Yeah, yeah, mustn't forget the whelks.

0:42:320:42:35

-Yeah, fossils...

-Yeah.

0:42:350:42:38

-..fortresses...

-Yes.

0:42:380:42:40

-..and faggots!

-Yeah, you're quite right.

-Three F's in one sentence.

0:42:400:42:43

And those fantastic sausages.

0:42:430:42:45

Actually, go on, be honest, what did you think about the beef?

0:42:450:42:48

The beef was absolutely divine.

0:42:480:42:50

Absolutely divine.

0:42:500:42:53

We've just had longhorn beef with your herb butter

0:42:530:42:57

and potato wedges in duck fat!

0:42:570:43:00

That's a "Taste Of Britain" in West Dorset.

0:43:000:43:03

-You got it.

-Thanks, boss.

0:43:030:43:05

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