Tom Kerridge - British Food Food & Drink

Food & Drink is back.

There's nothing I care more about than what, how and why

we eat and drink.

We're constantly being bombarded by trends

that influence the way we shop and cook today.

The cost of meat is spiralling,

but there is a joint that is still affordable, versatile and delicious.

Pork is the world's favourite red meat

and still the best value for money.

Two-Michelin-starred chef Tom Kerridge

is more than happy with my choice of dish.

I'm a bloke that likes a lump of meat.

I'll be passing on some of my trade secrets.

Rather than using cornflour, this really does give your gravy

a great shine, a little sweetness and a bit of thickness.

Award-winning wine expert, Kate Goodman

wants to change our opinion of German wines.

German Rieslings have in the past had a bad name,

people view them as sweet, sickly, but actually it's so wrong!

And food writer Stefan Gates opens our eyes

to an alternative to meat - and it's not veg.

Welcome to Food & Drink.

I think sitting down to the perfect Sunday roast

is one of life's great pleasures

but the sales of roasting joints are dwindling

in favour of mince, which is cheap and quick to cook.

But I think mastering the art of cooking the perfect roast joint

is well worth the time and effort.

So how are we doing there, Chef? Roast potatoes?

-Potatoes are draining, Chef.

-Lovely!

-So, what's your favourite roast?

-It's got to be pork.

Two things about it, beautiful, succulent meat

and amazing crackling.

Loin of pork is an economical and tasty cut of meat

perfect for feeding the whole family.

Allow one bone per person and everyone will be satisfied.

Something, we always think of a roast as being the leg

or maybe the shoulder, but this I think is very economical,

I mean, it's well worth it and pork is so versatile.

It is so versatile and that's quite a large amount of meat,

it's one lump of meat.

Everything of that is edible.

One of the best things I learned as a young chef in Hong Kong,

was how to get great crackling every time, and it's so easy.

You just pour boiling water over the pork skin,

which tightens and shrinks it.

No need to score it, and it paves the way to an amazing crunchy crackling.

I've never used this technique. I've never seen this before, actually,

so I'm intrigued and looking forward to seeing if it actually works,

seeing if those few months in Hong Kong actually paid off, Chef.

THEY LAUGH

So, so many different methods, aren't there?

I used to do a... Where we used to score it,

and then pour vinegar over it and THEN salt,

so the vinegar would then... It kind of tightens it all, really, up

and opens the pores, and then rub salt into it, should draw moisture,

-or I actually leave it out over night.

-Yes.

So what I do is I leave it out over night to dry and don't put any salt

or any water on it, so the skin is really nice and dry,

so there's many methods - as long as it goes crispy, that's the main thing.

But also I would say that the most important thing

-is that it's good quality pork.

-Absolutely.

Dry off the pork and season with salt and pepper

and it's ready to roast on the trivet of vegetables.

I like to start the pork off at a high heat, so about 200 degrees C

for about ten minutes just to start it going, start it roasting

and then turn it down to about 180 for 30 minutes or so,

so you end up with a roast pork which is succulent,

moist, bordering on pink... I know some people are a little bit edgy

about eating pork pink, but cooked all the way through,

and, most importantly not dry, not over-cooked.

So, in the oven.

While the pork's roasting, I can concentrate on the rest of the meal.

So we've parboiled the potatoes and given them a good shake,

so as it fluffs them up and they steam dry

and that way they're going to really roast and get a nice crisp edge.

The best way to get crispy roasts

is to heat up the oil on the hob.

Now, I'm using just veg oil but you could use duck fat, dripping...

Yep, oh, bit of beef dripping!

Once it's smoking, add the potatoes.

This will give you the ultimate roast, with a crispy outside

and a soft, fluffy centre.

If you've got rubbish roast potatoes, it makes it a rubbish roast.

You could do an amazing piece of meat when everybody likes a crispy roast potato.

Yes. When I grew up, I grew up on a...

Bless my mum, it was a single-parent family, my mum had two jobs

and we didn't have enough money all the time for a whole roast chicken

or... Or a roast joint of meat so what my mum used to do is

do a sausage meat in a log as the Sunday joint.

We'd still have the roast vegetables and everything else,

but you'd still have that... That joy of Sunday lunch, you know,

it just goes to show that you can still have...

It doesn't matter about budget, you can still be able to cook lovely food

and enjoy the whole purpose of eating, especially on a Sunday lunch.

-WHISPERS:

-Oh, yes.

Little sprinkling of salt...

and in the oven.

-Wow.

-And then we'll turn them after about ten minutes,

so that they go nice and golden.

There we go.

Sunday lunch is all about getting everything ready,

and then there's a lull while you're waiting for stuff to be cooked.

Yeah. It's all in the preparation, get it all ready

and then it's no bother, is it, and you can just enjoy cooking.

That's what Sunday lunch is all about, isn't it?

I agree. I tell you what, it smells brilliant

but you can tell you two are pros, cos when I'm cooking a Sunday lunch

it looks like a bomb site in my kitchen!

This is immaculate. I can't believe it.

Anyway that's for you, for your gravy, thought you might like it.

-Calvados.

-Yep.

-Perfect.

I'm not going the traditional route of making apple sauce.

If you think about apple sauce, like you say,

it's a classic accompaniment to pork - sweetness, acidity, fruity,

so it naturally lends itself to a white wine, but for me,

I like drinking a good hearty red with a roast.

My first choice for Michel's mouth-watering roast rack of pork

is an elegant red from the Dao region in northern Portugal.

This wine has vibrant, juicy fruit flavours

with dark cherries and blackberries.

For my soft drink, I'm staying with the classic pork/apple match

and have chosen a warming spiced apple juice.

And lastly, especially for Tom,

is a premium quality cider, which I'm going to serve chilled.

-We are drinking a lot more premium quality ciders.

-Ciders are lovely.

There's three different sorts of cider for me, and there is sleeping,

dancing or fighting cider.

As long as it's not the last one, I don't mind.

Yeah, we'll avoid the last one, I think!

Mmm, well, let's put this to good use.

Let's have the roast pork out and we'll start the gravy,

or the roasting jus.

Roasting jus. That was very French, Chef - gravy.

-Very French.

-Bit o' gravy!

What I want to do is take the skin off

and roast that a bit more.

-OK.

-So just get down here...

..and that way we're going to get really beautiful crackling

and our pork won't be overcooked.

Right, OK. Best of both worlds.

Indeed. So crackling back on there.

-That one back in the oven with our potatoes.

-All right.

Here we go now, leave this to rest.

As long as it's wrapped up with foil,

it'll keep its temperature and the heat will carry on cooking

the meat but very, very slowly and it will remain nice and moist.

With the meat resting, it's time to move on to the gravy.

People are scared of making gravy, but it really is very simple

and this technique, I think, is foolproof.

The soft and caramelized vegetables

have combined with the meat juices and fat

creating the perfect start to my gravy.

To make it even more tasty, I add quince paste.

Rather than using flour or cornflour,

this, along with the vegetables, really does give your gravy

a great shine, a great sheen, a little sweetness

and a bit of thickness.

To make it extra special, I'm using Kate's calvados.

Pork and apple is a classic combination

so this apple brandy is the perfect choice.

-A little splash of water in there for you.

-Thank you.

Just a little bit of water because you want plenty gravy.

I'm going to pour this into there and if you could just squeeze.

-Yes. All the flavours out.

-That's it.

-Wow.

-Oh, it smells brilliant.

-It does smell amazing, doesn't it?

This is how a roast should be.

Crispy potatoes, luxurious gravy flavoured with quince

and calvados, and succulent pork with special crackling.

Make it my way and I'm sure you'll never look back.

Can you hear that crunching?

That's a crackling, that is amazing. Absolutely stunning, Chef.

Hm. I'm getting great crunch on these tats as well,

they're absolutely brilliant.

Yeah the potatoes are really crunchy, as well.

Really crunchy on the outside and then just lovely,

soft fluffiness. I just can't get them like this myself,

-it's a real skill.

-It's beautiful - this pork is moist, it's tender,

-all that's missing is drink.

-Drink, yeah, thought you might say that!

Well, I have actually gone for a red wine.

I want something quite fruity. I don't want something with too

much tannin, just because the tannin and the salt will clash and make the

tannins taste quite bitter, and also I want something with good acidity.

Acidity's really important with food. Here you've got the

crispy crackling, and I want something to cut through that fat.

A really brilliant choice for wines with great acidity is Portugal.

Portuguese wines are an absolute winner. I really love them.

I'll give that one to you, the chef.

We should be drinking more Portuguese wines, in my opinion.

Most people associate Portuguese wine with port, sweet.

Exactly, but this last, sort of, 20 years they've really

been improving techniques on the still table wine and I think they're

really producing some absolutely fantastic quality, so...

They also eat a lot of pork in Portugal.

That's the other thing and this region is right next to where

they're famous for roast suckling pig. When I think pork,

Portugal is one of the first things that comes to mind.

-There we go.

-There we are, sir.

-Oh ho!

-For you.

-Cider!

-And that's actually matured in oak barrels so it gives it

a good depth of flavour to stand up to all the elements of the dish,

-so there's a little bit of sweetness in the cider.

-It smells amazing!

And for me, I've gone for apple juice, but I put few cloves

and cinnamon in there. You could put a little bit of orange peel as well,

-so it's a nice soft option.

-And warm?

-And warm.

Oh, bags and bags of fruit! Very, very easy drinking.

Perfect, that's exactly what I want.

Hm, it's really punchy. In fact, I reckon a lot of people,

-if they were blindfolded, tasted that, might think that's a white wine.

-You're joking.

Because it's got...

-It's got that lovely, fruity acidity of a white wine.

-Perfect.

Come here, Chef. Let me have a little sip.

-Only if I have a sip of your cider.

-That's a fair swap!

That's working so nicely, as well. I mean, you could drink this

on its own, but actually it works brilliantly with...

-That is lovely. That is really...

-You liking it?

-Yeah, I absolutely love that.

-Good, rock on Portugal!

-Yeah, rock on Portugal.

Portugal and cider from the River Severn,

two very different areas, but both fantastic!

For me, this is heavenly. I mean, a great roast,

but meat, in general, has really increased in price

and, of course, with the drought and the failing crops in Russia

and in the States, I mean, it can only now go up,

because there will be no more animal feed.

But Stefan Gates thinks he has the solution.

We eat meat, mountains of it,

and the best stuff comes from beautiful animals like these.

But with food prices in the world spiralling out of control,

soon we simply won't be able to afford it.

The days of the 99p beefburger are numbered.

By the year 2050,

the world's population is set to hit nine billion.

At the rate we're going, there simply won't be enough water

and land to rear enough cattle to feed everyone.

Now, you could go vegetarian.

If you travel the world, you'll see that everywhere the global demand

for animal protein is insatiable.

We're going to have to fundamentally change the way we think about food,

because the best source of cheap, tasty, sustainable meat is insects.

I'm passionate about these critters. Bugs are the future.

They're cheap to feed, they love overcrowding, they mature quickly

and generate a microscopic amount of greenhouse gas. What's not to like?

I want to know if you would ever consider farming small stock

-instead of livestock.

-No, not like that.

-Why not?

It'd be a limited market, I would think, like, you know, cos I mean,

I shouldn't want to be eating the mealworms.

I'd sooner have cattle running about. It's tradition, innit?

I've had animals all my life,

and I just enjoy keeping animals. I wouldn't enjoy keeping insects.

But these guys are the old guard.

I wonder if they have any idea what conditions are going to be like

in 20 years' time when grain prices are sky-high

and when low-methane-producing meat like mealworms

is going to be on the menu.

The race is on to create the first mass-produced bug burger,

with insect farms in Europe breeding mealworms in their millions.

Here is a big pot of mealworms that's been grown in the Netherlands

specially for human consumption.

And I'm going to do something with them I've never seen done before.

I'm going to feed them to the next generation of farmers

to see if they're more open-minded.

They're really fed to people as a gimmick, as a kind of bizarre little trick.

I want to make something absolutely delicious out of them.

Mealworms are one of 1,800 edible insects.

They're high in protein, nutritious and tasty, trust me!

I still want these to taste of insect, so that's the really

crucial thing, but insects, in a way, that make your mouth water.

I'm simply mixing the ground mealworms with vegetables,

nuts and herbs, shaping them into patties and frying them gently.

I think I'm onto a winner,

although the taste testers look a bit less convinced.

OK, here we go.

Oh, OK.

-That's bizarre.

-It tastes a bit like nuts.

Quite an acquired taste.

-It's more like an interesting veggie burger.

-Got a weird aftertaste.

You are the future of farming, doesn't this make sense?

Eating insects, that's got so many negative connotations.

I can't see it catching on, really.

To be the first farmer to go into this,

you'd have to be very open-minded.

It's definitely got its place to provide protein in the future

cos we'll not be able to produce enough without environmental consequences.

I don't think it's going to happen tomorrow,

I don't think it's going to happen in ten years, but in 20 years' time,

if we're not eating these, I'll eat my bug-infested hat.

Really, Stefan? I mean, these stink.

Oh, dear me.

I mean, does he really think that this is going to take the place

of a beautiful steak and chips? I mean, you wouldn't want to put that

-on the menu, would you?

-Absolutely not. I would turn my restaurant

vegetarian before I put worms on the menu.

-That's saying something.

-Yep.

-I think, in the line of duty,

we really should taste one.

-Oh, no.

-Come on, then.

-Michel, you're going first.

-I'm brave.

I'm finding meself a giant one.

Oof, deep breath.

Ah, d'you know what,

they're actually not as bad as I thought they'd be.

You know how you go to a really bad, random pub

and they've got crisps that are out of date?

-Like pork scratchings.

-Yeah, yeah.

-Pork scratching.

-Mixed in with a little bit of hay.

That initial crunch, actually I quite like,

but then, unfortunately the crunch releases the flavour.

If you have an eight-ounce steak,

I can't see how you replace that with eight ounces of them.

That'd be hard work.

But there's a serious point to this, I mean,

80% of the world's countries actually eat grubs and insects.

So what's good for some people is not acceptable for others.

Look, in France we eat horse meat, same in Belgium

and in Italy, as well - they make salamis out of donkey meat.

Tastes fantastic as well.

Well, it does taste good. In France we eat snails. I remember as a child,

as soon as it was raining, my father would take me out

and we'd collect snails and the neighbours would say,

"There's those mad Frenchmen - they're off again to get lunch."

You know, there's loads of snails in Britain

and we probably don't eat enough snails.

Yeah, but they taste ropey. They only taste of what you cook them with -

they don't really taste of anything, and then you cover it in garlic butter.

-Why don't we just...

-Then it's OK, then it's OK.

-Yeah!

-Would you like those in garlic butter?

They would probably be all right with garlic butter.

I've got to be honest with you, this is not the way forward, this is not the future.

The future for me is actually eating the rest of the animal

that we've slaughtered.

We have fillets and we sell them to posh restaurants like ours

and we serve that, but what about the rest of it -

the tripe, the heart and the liver

and the lungs and the brain and the cheeks and the...

And the brain!

My gosh, honestly, I think I think I'd rather eat that than brain.

-Whoa, Kate!

-I'm not sure.

Oh, no. See brains or that? That's an easy choice.

What about donkey or those worms - which would you rather have?

-Those.

-Really?

-No! Donkey for me.

Yeah, donkey for me as well, donkey every time.

-Can't eat donkey, it's wrong.

-That is the future.

It's scary. If we are going to have to eat that,

in 30, 40 years time, I mean, that... That worries me.

The worry about the lack of crops for pig feed.

Can't we just feed pigs on this?

Maybe they'd even turn their noses up.

Tastes always change but quality always shines through,

and Oliver Peyton believes that British food

is some of the best in the world.

Great Britain, a proud and patriotic nation.

Come rain or shine, the Brits are out there putting on a party,

flying the flag and celebrating their heritage.

But when it comes to our food,

we are at best modest and at worst embarrassed about our produce,

unlike our continental cousins, who define themselves by their food.

In terms of pride in local produce, the French and the Italians are masters.

From Sancerre to Champagne, from olive oil to Parma ham,

they take great pride in buying these products,

it's part of their national identity.

Take the Italians, for example. Their food is distinctive.

Parmesan cheese one of the most famous cheeses in the world.

The Italians have spent generations honing this fine cheese.

They see this cheese in the same way as Prada or Bottega Veneta -

a brand, something to be nurtured and protected.

Britain could learn something from Parmesan cheese.

But if you think about it,

we produce some of the best food in the world - the homely pork pie,

traditional Cornish pasty,

tart, pink, forced rhubarb,

sweet, acidic, apply cider,

light and creamy single Gloucester cheese.

But when it comes to Cheddar cheese,

Juliet Harbutt, founder of the British Cheese Awards,

thinks we've lost ownership and control.

Cheddar should really only be called Cheddar

if it's made, you know, in the area of Somerset,

in the West Country, and it's matured in cloth

and has all of those things associated with a true Cheddar,

and the problem is that, you know, we make it all over the world.

And the problem with making Cheddar all over the world

is that there's no guarantee it's going to be as good as the real thing.

But why have the French been able to do it?

How come the French can do it and we can't.

Look at this beautiful cheese. How come we can't trademark that?

But they'd done it for years. Back in the 1800s, the French went,

"What we want to make sure is no one else makes Roquefort

"and calls it Roquefort, anywhere else except this very specific area,

"and no one can make Camembert except in a very specific area."

But things are changing.

British artisan cheese production is now thriving.

What is unique about the UK and what makes it so special

is that we actually now make over 700 unique and different cheeses,

which is more than the French.

There's nothing to stop the Brits producing

the next world-famous cheese. We just have to shout about it.

Here in this dairy in Gloucestershire,

they produce a single Gloucester cheese. This is a far cry

from the double Gloucester you normally see in a supermarket.

There are only five official producers of this cheese

in the world who're allowed to call it Single Gloucester,

and if it stays that way, its quality will be protected forever.

Single Gloucester is and always will be

a cheese we can be proud to call our own.

It's quite a mild cheese. I mean, a lot of the new British cheeses now

feel really earthy and delicate.

It feels like somebody's hand has made the cheese -

it doesn't feel like a machine has made it. It feels British.

So let's stop being so modest.

We make some of the best food in the world.

So let's shout about it from the rooftops!

Now, I'm passionate about great ingredients

but I'm also known for my love of the French classics,

and this particular dish, you may be surprised, Tom, is a dish that

I first tasted when my wife cooked for me.

-Your wife actually cooked it for you?

-Yes, you see, you are surprised.

Yeah, I am. Brave girl.

The dish is a vegetable tarte tatin.

Traditionally made as a pudding with apples,

this version is a delicious meat-free option.

-A vegetarian dish?

-Shock horror!

Yeah, I'm a bloke that likes a lump of meat, so if you...

It's going to take a lot for you to convince me that this tarte tatin

is suitable for a main course without it being a lump of meat.

I'm sure the combination of succulent roasted vegetables

will be enough to win Tom over.

First, take two red onions and slice them carefully into rings.

Next, chop three fennel bulbs

and make sure you remove their woody hearts.

All of these vegetables go into a roasting tray,

and put the onions down flat.

Now, I need a few coriander seeds, crushed.

And one chilli, but I leave it whole,

and just by cutting it down the middle it will give a little

bit more flavour, little bit of zing and a bite.

Then, a few drops of balsamic vinegar. Again we're adding

sweetness but sourness as well, so it's balance of flavour.

It's probably the cheapest balsamic vinegar you can find,

because it would be a waste to cook your balsamic vinegar

like that. It's a bit like olive oil -

you wouldn't use your most expensive olive oil for roasting something,

cos you lose all the natural fragrance.

So, you know, that's very important.

-That, almost already, looks like just a great salad, doesn't it?

-It does, doesn't it?

Right, now, in the oven at 200 degrees C

and only for about 15, 20 minutes

-just enough time for it to caramelise.

-Right, OK.

So, now, if you could make a caramel in the pan...

So this is a non-stick frying pan with a metal handle that goes in the oven?

-That's right.

-Not a tarte tatin pan from a classic French chef.

I think it works probably better than the classic tarte tatin mould.

-It's fail-safe.

-Yeah, fail-safe, well, we say that now, Chef.

-And we like fail-safe.

-Yeah.

To make the caramel,

put 60 grams of sugar and three tablespoons of water in a pan

and keep it moving until it turns golden brown.

Next, roll out one block of ready-made puff pastry.

There's nothing wrong with buying in puff pastry or any kind of pastry

as long as it's quality ingredients from the start.

Cut the puff pastry into a circle of the same diameter as your pan.

-Oh, yes.

-Wow, look at that.

-Oh, that smells good.

-Oh, it smells lovely.

Look at that.

What we need to do now is put the vegetables into our non-stick pan

with the caramel there, so, most important is that we try and keep

these onion rings whole, do you see? Right, like this.

And,

fennel goes in between, like so.

-Finish it off, sprinkle a little bit of thyme...

-Thyme leaves.

..and a little bit of Parmesan cheese.

The Parmesan cheese is just there to add a little bit of zing

and it helps to bind all the vegetables together.

Puff pastry on top and tucked in, most important. Got to tuck it in

underneath the vegetables and that's going to hold all the veg together.

A few holes in the pastry to let out that steam,

-because otherwise the pastry is going to be soggy.

-Soggy!

Right, in the oven. 200 degrees C

for about 25 minutes

but keep your eye on it. Don't want to burn that pastry.

All I need to go with this is a little salad which I'll dress,

but what are we having to drink?

We're drinking a Riesling, which, for me, is one of the greatest

white grape varieties there is. I absolutely love Riesling.

So is this a French or a German Riesling?

-This is a German.

-Oh, shock horror!

-Oh, no!

-It's very good.

-It is very good.

I think German Rieslings have, in the past, had a bad name.

I think people view them as sweet, sickly styles of wine,

but actually it's so wrong. You can get a huge variety of flavours,

right through from really minerally, slatey styles, bone dry, aromatic,

honey, lime - it's all about the balance between...

Like any good wine,

with acidity, fruit flavours, alcohol and the sweetness

so the balance of all those, when they ARE in harmony,

Riesling just shines. It's just absolutely brilliant.

-I can't wait to try it with my tarte tatin.

-No, me either.

-Right.

Here we go.

Now... Yes, on the board. I think that will look great.

-Move that.

-So...

-Good luck.

Like that. Reveal the tatin.

-Wow, look at that.

-That looks great.

I must say, that does look good, doesn't it?

So a little bit of salad around there.

So we've got the bitterness of the salad,

the lovely sweetness from the onion and the fennel

and if you want a real kick of chilli, have a bite of the chilli.

-These are better than worms, aren't they?

-Uh, yeah.

-This crust just looks gorgeous.

-It smells absolutely amazing.

Hmm, you get the chilli, the thyme leaves,

the odd crunch of coriander.

You see, I didn't have a bit of chilli then,

but I still got quite a lot of heat. It seems to have

sort of infused into the dish. Brilliant.

There is actually such a depth of flavour in that.

Ah, yes! Yes, yes, yes!

-You happy with that?

-Oh, yes.

-Yep.

-Perfect, absolutely perfect.

On its own, it tasted quite sweet. Put it together

with this tarte, really shows itself as a fantastic wine.

Whatever you make your food out of, make sure

you use the best ingredients you can. There's nothing closer to

my heart than quality - if you select the best you won't go far wrong.

Drink to that, Chef.

Next time on Food & Drink...

..Mary Berry and I discuss baking techniques.

That's perfect, isn't it? Now, I would have put

vanilla pod in there, or I would use vanilla extract in this.

And Rachel Khoo is in Paris to find

out how the French achieve patisserie perfection.

It's got this crispy sound.

And, of course, it tastes buttery. A perfect croissant.

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