Gary Rhodes on Tomatoes and Angela Hartnett on Crab Great British Food Revival


Gary Rhodes on Tomatoes and Angela Hartnett on Crab

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-Some of the best British produce is under threat.

-At the mercy of foreign invaders.

-And food fashion.

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-Produce around for centuries.

-Could die out within a generation.

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-So together we're on a mission.

-To save it!

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We'll tell you how to find it, grow it and cook it.

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-And put sensational British produce.

-Back on the food map.

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My name is Gary Rhodes and I'm passionate about a fruit that is so often misunderstood

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and not recognised as one of our great British ingredients - the British tomato.

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Now there's no denying we love tomatoes. We buy 500,000 tons of them every year,

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but 70% of these are shipped in from as far as Israel and Morocco,

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leaving the British tomato grower in the cold.

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I fell in love with tomatoes as a little boy at the corner shop, where it was all British tomatoes.

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That was all we had. There were no super airliners flying them in.

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They were true home-grown, soft, they were ready to eat.

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'I'm going to try to revive the fate of the great British tomato.

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'I'll be meeting a grower who's turning waste into watts.'

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Not just British. This is a true green tomato.

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'Rediscovering the incredible shapes and sizes we could be tucking into.'

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-We grow 63 varieties.

-63?!

-Some of the older ones are 100 years old.

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'And what better way to honour the good old British tom than a three-course menu

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'with a show-stopping tomato pudding.' Oh, look at that.

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It's really quite odd. All I'm eating here is sweet tomato.

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'In the UK, this juicy little fruit has been demoted to an everyday ingredient,

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'available 365 days a year.'

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I couldn't tell you their season.

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I buy tomatoes all year round.

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Out of season, you've got no choice. You've got to buy Spanish-grown or Dutch-grown.

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We just put them in the trolley. We don't mind where they come from. As long as they're tasty.

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'Only 30% of the tomatoes we eat are home-grown, a fact that sadly says it all.

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'I've travelled to Barnham, home of one of our largest tomato growers,

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'to find out where we're going wrong.'

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From the general public's point of view, a tomato is a tomato.

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It's deep red, it maybe has a little bit of different texture or shape or size about it,

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but really where it's from does that bother our public?

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I hope so, because we're very proud of the product that we grow as British growers.

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A lot of the imported tomatoes are a little bit cheaper.

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-How are we going to counter that?

-We've got to get the consumer to recognise the investment that goes in

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to make British tomatoes the best.

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Literally, it's millions of pounds that are invested before the first tomato is even picked.

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We've got to make sure the consumer recognises what British represents.

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It's fresh. It can be picked within 24, 48 hours and be on your plate. That is fantastic.

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Are we buying because of some kind of shelf-life here? Because imported last an extra week or more?

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It should be the other way round.

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If product is travelling from Spain, from Italy, the Canaries and takes four, six, seven, eight days,

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it has less of a shelf life. Buying British guarantees a better shelf life.

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It can be picked, packed, in the store within 24 hours.

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I want to know how we can take all of this, show it off and sell it.

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Tomato production actually starts towards the end of February.

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And we finish at the end of October, so it is a long season.

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But May is a key time for us.

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We actually have British Tomato Week which kicks off in May every single year.

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It's when volumes are at their highest. If we get supermarket support to push that even more,

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it'll be a huge benefit for us, the consumer and the supermarkets.

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I'll only buy tomatoes during that British season.

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This is the message I want to get across.

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'We need to pay a little bit extra for a premium ingredient

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'and savour British tomatoes when they're at their best.'

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Now you've seen where they're from, I want to show you what we can do.

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It's incredible. Here I am making an Italian dish

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to show off the great British tomato, but I think the British can do just as well, if not better.

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'My version uses beautifully sweet British plum tomatoes and I'm oven-roasting them

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'to intensify their already amazing flavour.'

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Let's take a bowl. There's one or two flavours I want to add to it.

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'First, thyme - two or three little sprigs.' It's there to enhance, to add something.

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A hint of garlic.

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Just lightly press these on the board.

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And they become that little bit easier to peel.

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'Use as much or as little as you like.'

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There's plenty in there.

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Now, other things to add: some icing sugar here.

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'A generous pinch to bring out the tomatoes' natural sweetness.'

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Some sea salt.

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A twist of black pepper.

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And I'm going to add just a touch of olive oil. This is extra virgin.

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It adds quite a lot to this dish.

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That's how simple this dish is.

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'These fragrant little toms will be the star of my salad.

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'I just need to pop them into a low oven for 20 minutes.'

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So while they're cooking, I want to make a dressing also using the tomatoes.

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These look fabulous here. Really rich, beautiful to eat.

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And all I want to do is literally chop them up, quarter them roughly like this.

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This is what I love about really good cooking. It can be so simple.

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There's so much intense flavour here. It needs very little. That's the beauty of British ingredients,

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particularly these tomatoes. 'All I'm going to do is get them in a blender

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'with a couple of their sun-dried cousins for added depth.

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'Give them a blitz.

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'And push them through a sieve so I'm left with a smooth, rich tomato puree.'

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Look at that.

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A couple of other bits and pieces to add - English mustard is nice,

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but a little bit too harsh for the tomato. I'm going for Dijon, which still gives strength of flavour,

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but not too strong or powerful.

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'Then a couple of teaspoons of red wine vinegar,

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'a dash of sugar,

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'a pinch of salt, then pepper

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'and some extra virgin olive oil.'

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I'm also going to add to it a little touch of sesame oil. Not essential,

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but it does add that nutty bite.

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'And, finally, the tomato puree.

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'20 minutes later and our oven-roasted tomatoes are ready.'

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There we are. That has such a great flavour and all we've done is warm them.

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'What they need now is a bed of creamy British mozzarella,

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'a drizzle of the nutty tomato dressing,

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'a squirt of fragrant basil oil

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'and a scattering of baby basil leaves.' That's it. Very simple.

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Very flavoursome. That is a British tomato and mozzarella salad.

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'I'm on a journey to rediscover the virtues of the British tomato,

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'an ingredient I should find here.'

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This is New Covent Garden Market where they turn over £11 million of fruit and veg every week.

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'With over 200 wholesalers supplying Michelin-starred restaurants to local cafes

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'it's the perfect place to find out why we're not growing British.'

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This is more than a surprise. You don't expect to see this from home-grown, do you?

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It's just a wonderful collection. It's incredible. As far as I'm concerned, if I'm looking at that,

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-I have just bought these from a Sicilian market.

-Yeah.

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-It has that kind of shape about it, but these are from our own soils.

-Yeah, absolutely.

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'Not known for our good weather, we have to grow our tomatoes in greenhouses

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'that require heat and irrigation, making them more expensive.'

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What can we do to really help and support the British grower?

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If you went back 10 or 15 years ago, there was a lot of small, independent growers on the south coast, all over.

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Unfortunately, the price just hasn't gone up. We have all the cheaper imports from primarily Holland

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and they seem to get cheaper every year and the small independent English grower can't keep up.

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For me it's like an investment. What it's going to supply you with some of your greatest culinary memories.

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Just those extra few pennies to buy ingredients like this. This is a chef's dream.

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'But a dearer price tag isn't the only side effect to greenhouse growing.

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'The heat needed costs the environment, too,

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'resulting in British tomatoes having a higher carbon footprint,

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'a problem John and Caroline Jones are tackling head-on at their farm in Hertfordshire.'

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-What is it like being a British tomato grower?

-It's not easy.

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Production costs are going up, supermarkets in general are trying to squeeze the price,

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these structures you see behind, we have to heat these the whole long season, even in the summer.

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-These are heated throughout the year?

-In the summer as well.

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We need a slight amount of heat going through the pipes.

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-But this must be very costly.

-It is. Very.

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'But they've found a revolutionary way to reduce their costs and their carbon footprint

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'and it could change the fate of the British tomato industry.'

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I didn't expect to see this!

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That is incredible.

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-So this is what is creating your electricity?

-This is the waste vegetables

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that powers our turbines.

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I am in a state of shock. I cannot believe it. There are so many.

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All these great flavours sitting here. And it just goes to show how much wastage there is

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-with great food.

-There is, but we're putting it to very good use.

-Absolutely, absolutely.

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'It's a unique system that converts rotting fruit and veg from markets like Spitalfields

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'into green electricity to heat their greenhouses. And what's even more incredible

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'is they did it all themselves.'

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-It sounds so simple. Is it that easy?

-Absolutely not!

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It's been a real trial and tribulation over the last 5 years. We're nearly there now.

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We are making methane gas and generating electric and heating our nursery,

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but there's been several divorces on the way!

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'All this for the humble British tomato. And to think everything from the hot water

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'to the CO2 pumped in to enrich the atmosphere has come from that waste fruit and veg.'

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And here is the end result. Beautiful British tomatoes.

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-Not just a British tomato. This is a true green tomato.

-It could be said.

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-Stunning. Look at the richness and the colour on that.

-Superb.

-We've done everything we can

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-to reduce our carbon footprint to a minimum.

-Stunning.

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It's sweet, it's wonderful. Look at all those rich juices.

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And the colour of the flesh is stunning.

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That is where we win over an imported tomato.

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We can allow these to stay on the plant until we get that fantastic red colour and all its flavour,

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-whereas imports are picked so far in advance, they're green...

-Days and weeks in advance.

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So it's very hard, it doesn't develop that full richness. But that's what I'm tasting here.

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'What an inspirational couple. They really are setting an example to the rest of the industry

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'and I can't wait to show off their produce in the Revival kitchen.'

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So for my second recipe,

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I've chosen, of course, John and Caroline's lovely, rich, sweet tomatoes.

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And to go with them, an equally sweet fish - salmon. Absolutely delicious.

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'These tomatoes are so delicious, they hardly need any cooking.

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'All I've done is blanch them in hot water to remove the skin and seeds.'

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That's the beauty I found with John and Caroline's tomatoes.

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Even in its totally raw state, with skin and seeds, it was wonderful. Absolutely wonderful.

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Now you'll notice I'm being quite generous with these.

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If you've got something as tasty as this, enjoy it.

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'I'm going to warm them through with a handful of juicy grey shrimps and then plenty of chopped herbs,

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'added at the end, so they keep their exquisite taste and texture. With a beautiful fillet of salmon.'

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Easy to cook, only takes minutes. That's the great thing with this dish. It's very quick to cook.

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'If you want to cook it perfectly every time, dust the fish with flour to prevent it from sticking

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'and resist the temptation to season until halfway through.'

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If you start throwing salt in now, it can draw some juices from it.

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Then it begins to stew in the pan rather than fry.

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'I'm serving spinach with it, simply thrown in the pan with a knob of butter.'

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These are actually going to steam.

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'As soon as the salmon starts to turn pink, it's safe to season it.'

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A touch of table salt is all I'm using here. Again, that twist of pepper on top.

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So the spinach is cooked. Let's get rid of that pan. Let's look at the salmon now.

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You can see how far that line has come up the side of the fish, telling me it's almost ready.

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'All I need to do now is add a knob of butter and a squeeze of lemon juice to moisten the fish.

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'And then heat up the little grey shrimps.'

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What you don't want to do is fry them. Fry them and they toughen. That's not what we're after.

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Next our tomatoes. Let's throw some nice tomatoes in there so they can warm as well.

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Plenty of them.

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'And, lastly, a handful of chopped herbs for flavour and colour. I'm using chervil, tarragon and chives.

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'And it's as simple as that.'

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Look at the fish. You can still see how soft that is.

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Still slightly pink in the centre which means it's retained lovely juices, maximum flavour

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and that lovely sweetness which is going to accompany the wonderful, wonderful tomatoes.

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'Just pop the fish on a bed of spinach.

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'And spoon on the warm tomato and shrimp.'

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Very simple dish, but it holds so much sort of character and flavour.

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The strength of tomato is really quite phenomenal. You can almost smell the sweetness.

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Right. Let's tuck in.

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Now you can still see... What did I say? That little pink left in the salmon itself.

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Wonderful and moist.

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Mm.

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That holds quite a melting experience. The softness of the fish,

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the gentle little bite of the lovely shrimp,

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but the real maximum flavour is found from the British tomato.

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Quite sensational.

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'Our love affair with tomatoes has always been about much more than just eating them,

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'something I'm keen to explore further at Audley End Organic Kitchen Garden in Essex

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'where they keep the Victorian appetite for variety alive.'

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The Victorians had a strange attitude towards tomatoes. They were newish.

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They grew them, but wouldn't eat them. They believed them poisonous.

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-Really?

-Yeah. They grew them as ornamentals and would show them off to their friends.

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Somehow they crossed over and began eating them.

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'And thanks to their experimentation, a wealth of British varieties were born,

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'some resurrected here.'

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-We grow 63 varieties of tomato.

-63?!

-Yes.

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-Oh, my goodness, me!

-Like a food shop.

-This is phenomenal! Are these all British?

-The majority are.

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-There are one or two Americans, but most of them are British.

-How old are these?

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Some are almost 100 years old.

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'It's taken Mike over a decade of careful growing to bring these Victorian varieties back to life

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'and he's done it with the help of the Heritage Seed Library, a charity conserving rare seeds.'

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-A classic is Auntie Madge's.

-Oh, the little sort of plums?

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-Baby plums.

-That was found in the corner of someone's potting shed

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and was sent to the seed library. The real name has long been lost,

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-so they gave it the name Auntie Madge's so we'll stay with that.

-Absolutely. You're supporting it.

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There are many, many... Plumpton King, Earl of Edgecombe.

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These are all from certain farms, certain families who sent them in?

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Yes. Some are straight from nurseries. Others have been found in granddad's garden

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-in a box or a drawer. That's the beauty of the seed library.

-I'd love to try one.

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-There's a lovely red one there.

-One of these?

-Take that nice one.

-This is called Welsh Farmer Laws.

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Look at that. Beautiful.

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And actually you smell that...

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It smells so beautiful and rich. Absolutely wonderful.

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That'll be quite sweet, I imagine. I'll let you know.

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Look at the colour on it.

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Ohh...

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That is quite immense in its flavour. Absolutely stunning to eat.

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-Should we be encouraging more and more people to grow their own?

-Definitely. I'll show you how.

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That's a good start.

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-Pop it there.

-There he goes.

-You've partly eaten it, but left us some to work with.

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All you really need to do is simple. We've a sheet of kitchen paper. Go after the individual seeds

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and just let them dry on the paper. Store them in an envelope, somewhere relatively dry for wintertime.

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It's incredible just seeing this because it's given me inspiration.

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I hope it gives everybody watching and seeing this equal inspiration to start growing our own.

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'Even if you don't have a garden, you can still get involved.

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'Take the residents of Brighton and Hove. They've set up a community vegetable plot in the local park,

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-'which is run by volunteers.'

-Over 100 people

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have asked to be involved or given a few hours to help.

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One of our gardeners is growing two dozen varieties of tomatoes.

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That's the San Marzano, a plum variety like you find in your tins.

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We try to grow things people might not think of growing, something new.

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These are a black cherry. It's supposed to be the sweetest tomato you can get.

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To plant a seed and wait a few months until food is ready to be eaten, that's really rewarding.

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This actually came from a shop last year and I liked it so I kept the seeds.

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And grew them this year.

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'They also organise allotment shares so neighbours with no outside space can muck in and share the harvest.'

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-They're one of the...

-The main thing you look forward to.

-Our own tomatoes!

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One of the plants was really big. My little boy thought that was amazing.

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'They even encourage local businesses like this restaurant in the centre of Brighton

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-'to make the most of whatever space they've got.'

-This is our bin alley.

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I started these off in my little back garden in a plastic greenhouse, then brought them here.

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They've shot up the wall. I've got some big beef tomatoes that will make fantastic chutney.

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These little tomatoes garnish my salads. If you can say you've done something on the premises

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and it's literally come off the vine, it's such a good story to tell customers.

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For my final recipe, I'm going to make a dessert.

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That really will show you how versatile these tomatoes are.

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Let's face it, they are a fruit.

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I thought they must work in a pudding. This one's going to be a little different.

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Where are the white tomatoes from? From here.

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Just look. They're giving wonderfully. Almost that slightly overripe stage.

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They'll be quite sensational, giving me a lot of juice to make that white in the sorbet.

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'A kilo of these plump tomatoes should give me about a pint of juice.

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'Just chop them roughly and pop them in a blender, stopping and starting so as not to overwork them.'

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You can see this looseness.

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That red will all be left behind and it's the pure white juice that you're going to extract.

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'And I'm going to do this by pouring the chopped tomatoes through a piece of muslin.

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'It will take some time to drip through, but it's worth it.

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'You can use the pulp for soups or pasta sauces.'

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Once it's all dripped through, you can see that slight little tone in it of the tomato.

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Almost a kind of yellow, if you like. An orangey-yellow.

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But that is white tomato liquor.

0:24:570:25:00

The next thing I'm going to make with it is, of course, the base. It won't make a sorbet on its own.

0:25:000:25:07

'Simply dissolve some liquid glucose in a pan with some caster sugar.

0:25:070:25:12

'Add the tomato water and leave to cool.'

0:25:130:25:17

You need to add that sweetness to prevent it setting like a big block of ice.

0:25:170:25:22

While that's happening, I'll make the actual almond pudding itself.

0:25:220:25:27

'It's a simple sponge mix made entirely in the food processor

0:25:270:25:31

'that starts with the dry ingredients, including almonds,

0:25:310:25:35

'and some digestive biscuit crumbs to give it texture

0:25:350:25:40

'and room-temperature butter.'

0:25:400:25:42

It's so quick and easy. Every single ingredient in together.

0:25:420:25:47

'To end, add the wet ingredients, namely three eggs,

0:25:470:25:51

'which once blitzed into a soft runny batter is simply poured into moulds.'

0:25:510:25:58

You want to fill them probably about two-thirds, three-quarters full.

0:25:590:26:03

Now straight into the oven. 140 degrees.

0:26:030:26:07

And we're going to leave these now for about 15 or 20 minutes. On they go.

0:26:070:26:13

Right. Let's finish off now our sorbet mix.

0:26:130:26:17

Let's have a little stir.

0:26:170:26:19

You certainly can't hear the little grains of sugar in there so you know it's absolutely ready.

0:26:210:26:26

'Once it's cooled, pour it into an ice cream machine to churn to the right consistency

0:26:260:26:33

'and pop it into the freezer to set.'

0:26:330:26:36

If you don't have an ice cream or sorbet machine, don't worry.

0:26:360:26:40

Set it, as a block, and then put it into a food processor to create that very thick slush.

0:26:400:26:47

Refreeze it and you'll have an ice cream.

0:26:470:26:51

Let's have a look at the sponges.

0:26:510:26:53

Here, let me show you these.

0:26:540:26:57

I think they look lovely.

0:26:570:27:00

Slightly soft in the centre.

0:27:000:27:02

You can see just getting that little colour around the outside.

0:27:020:27:07

And we've got the sorbet. Now this is how it got its title

0:27:070:27:12

of white tomato sorbet. You can see it's firmed up just enough.

0:27:120:27:19

Let's have a little taste. Take a clean spoon.

0:27:190:27:23

And we can just... Look at that.

0:27:230:27:25

It's really quite odd because all I'm eating here is sweet tomato.

0:27:290:27:34

It's almost got a strawberriness.

0:27:340:27:36

It's absolutely delicious.

0:27:360:27:39

So, without burning myself, let's see if we can pop one of these... There we are.

0:27:390:27:45

Take that out of the mould.

0:27:450:27:48

There you have a lovely sponge.

0:27:480:27:51

'I'm serving this with a tangy lime syrup that soaks into the sponge, keeping it nice and moist.'

0:27:510:27:57

Trickle that over the top.

0:27:570:28:00

'A flavour that complements the tomato sorbet perfectly.

0:28:000:28:04

'And I'm garnishing the plate with some oven-dried tomatoes dusted with sugar

0:28:070:28:13

'and more of those fragrant basil leaves.

0:28:130:28:17

'And there you have it. Another exciting dimension to the British tomato.'

0:28:170:28:23

This has been nothing but an education for me.

0:28:230:28:27

Really quite incredible. Finding myself eating a dessert with tomato,

0:28:270:28:32

it's opened up my eyes to the great British tomato.

0:28:320:28:36

I'm convinced by it. I hope you'll agree it needs to be revived.

0:28:360:28:41

Let's stick by it.

0:28:410:28:43

Now here's someone else beating the drum for another unsung hero of the British food world.

0:28:430:28:49

So we live on an island, we're surrounded by sea

0:28:560:29:00

and in that sea is the most amazing British crab, but we hardly eat it.

0:29:000:29:04

I want to find out why the British public aren't eating enough of it.

0:29:040:29:09

'I'm Angela Hartnett and I'm passionate about reviving the fortune of the British crab.

0:29:090:29:14

'It's baffling why we export over half our yearly catch of this creature.'

0:29:140:29:19

Don't you just want to eat the lovely white and brown meat?

0:29:190:29:22

'I'll reveal some of the best places to catch crab.' Ahoy there!

0:29:220:29:27

'Meeting people who love crab as much as me.'

0:29:270:29:30

You don't have sex just the one way, so come on, be adventurous!

0:29:300:29:34

'Finding out how to make it supermarket-friendly.'

0:29:340:29:37

-By pasteurising it, how long does that increase its shelf life for?

-From four days to 14.

0:29:370:29:43

'And the bit I really love - cooking. I'll show you three deliciously simple suppers,

0:29:430:29:49

'including an amazing spider crab gratin.'

0:29:490:29:52

Fantastic at a dinner party. Everyone loves the crab. They think you're the cleverest chef around.

0:29:520:29:58

My first memories of crab were the little jars of crab paste that you used to have in sandwiches.

0:30:020:30:08

It was only when I started becoming a chef later in life

0:30:080:30:12

that I realised how the original... and most amazing flavour you get from these crabs.

0:30:120:30:17

And recently, my most amazing taste sensation was down in Cornwall

0:30:170:30:21

where we had fantastic crab baguettes with lovely white wine.

0:30:210:30:25

On the beach, just eating that, you can't ask better.

0:30:250:30:29

'Shockingly, only about 5% of us have even tried crab,

0:30:290:30:33

'so exactly what have we got against this tasty crustacean?'

0:30:330:30:36

-Can I ask you something? Do you eat crab?

-No.

0:30:360:30:40

-And you, madam?

-No, thank you.

-You don't like it?

-No.

-You haven't tried it.

-No, thank you.

0:30:400:30:45

-Go on, try a bit.

-Is it live?

-Yes, it is live. Pick it up.

0:30:450:30:49

-I don't want to.

-You don't want to. Why not?

-Because it looks awful.

0:30:490:30:53

But you're eating the meat.

0:30:530:30:55

-It looks like a coconut. Is it alive?

-Yes. That is a fantastic spider crab.

0:30:560:31:01

-They're like giant spiders.

-I'm a bit arachnophobic. They freak me out.

0:31:010:31:06

-If you got a crab on your plate, would that freak you out?

-Yeah, that would freak me out.

0:31:060:31:11

'So most of us don't like the look of it, but if I'm going to get to the bottom

0:31:130:31:18

'of why we aren't eating enough crab, there is only one place to go

0:31:180:31:22

'and that's London's seafood market in the heart of the east end.'

0:31:220:31:25

We're here at Billingsgate, which is always good fun, about six in the morning.

0:31:250:31:31

If anyone knows why we're not eating crabs and what we need to do to make sure we eat crabs, it's these guys.

0:31:310:31:37

'Here taste definitely comes before looks, but appearance isn't the only problem crab has,

0:31:380:31:43

'as it's traditionally sold live to guarantee freshness.'

0:31:430:31:47

-I don't want to see them moving about.

-They're not so bad.

0:31:470:31:51

-Many people are like that, because it moves.

-That puts people off.

0:31:510:31:55

'And even the cooked ones need to be picked and dressed, something our busy schedules don't allow for.'

0:31:550:32:01

-People are lazy now. Everything is for convenience.

-No-one wants to do the work.

0:32:010:32:06

'So we're missing out on one of the healthiest, tastiest, most abundant meats our shores have to offer.'

0:32:060:32:12

We're like the largest producers of crab in Europe, so why aren't the British eating it?

0:32:120:32:18

The Europeans, generally, are bigger consumers of shellfish than we are.

0:32:180:32:22

That's just bonkers. It doesn't make sense.

0:32:220:32:25

If you go back 20, 30 years, there used to be a shellfish stall outside most pubs.

0:32:250:32:31

-So you could have crab every day?

-Crabs, cockles, eels.

0:32:310:32:35

-That's the tragedy. We export to Spain, France and Italy and we're not eating it here.

-No.

0:32:350:32:41

But why aren't the British cooking more of the fresh ones? Stick it in a little pot of water - easy.

0:32:410:32:47

-The British people are not fish-eating people.

-How do I get the British public eating more crab?

0:32:470:32:53

-What are your suggestions?

-Just say to 'em, "Come on, guys.

0:32:530:32:57

"You don't have sex just the one way, so come on, be adventurous!"

0:32:570:33:02

-I'm going to tell them to come to you.

-Come and see us. Crab's terrific. It's lovely.

0:33:020:33:08

'So where did it go wrong and how do we rekindle our love affair with this mouth-watering meat?'

0:33:080:33:14

We don't eat enough crab now, but years ago, we were eating tons of the stuff. What happened?

0:33:140:33:20

For example, in 1861, at the old Billingsgate Market, in one year,

0:33:200:33:24

600,000 live crabs were actually sold.

0:33:240:33:28

600,000? That's an incredible amount.

0:33:280:33:31

-It's nothing like that nowadays.

-What's changed our eating habits?

0:33:310:33:35

It's just getting hold of the crab.

0:33:350:33:38

In the old days, people would shop more at their fishmonger or a local market where products were available.

0:33:380:33:44

Nowadays, most of us, about 85% of us get our shellfish in the supermarkets.

0:33:440:33:49

-How many times have you seen crab in a supermarket?

-What about health benefits?

0:33:490:33:54

Crab are good for us because of high levels of long-chain omega-3 acids.

0:33:540:33:58

How much crab are we eating in this country?

0:33:580:34:01

Despite the fact that we land nearly 25,000 tonnes and it's the sixth most important fishery in the UK

0:34:010:34:07

and the UK fleet lands over half of the entire European catch, it doesn't even make the top ten.

0:34:070:34:12

So on holiday, we're eating crab, that we could be buying up the road,

0:34:120:34:17

-for twice the price? Something's wrong.

-Absolutely right.

0:34:170:34:20

'The message is clear. Everyone is in love with British crab, except us Brits.

0:34:200:34:26

'So we need to stop being afraid and start eating more of it.'

0:34:260:34:30

I'm going to cook a really simple crab dish. It's easy to make. You've all eaten it at restaurants.

0:34:300:34:37

When you buy your crab, you want to make sure it's at its freshest,

0:34:410:34:45

which means buying it live and dispatching it yourself.

0:34:450:34:49

As an alternative, you can buy whole cooked crab from your fishmonger and pick the meat at home instead.

0:34:490:34:55

Start by removing the shell from your cooked crab.

0:34:550:34:59

Take it from the back and just literally push up, so you start to pull away the crab from its shell.

0:34:590:35:05

OK, remove its claws, which is where you'll find all the white meat.

0:35:050:35:10

And then all the little claws here.

0:35:110:35:14

Gently just pull them away like so from the body of the crab.

0:35:140:35:19

Here you have what they call dead man's fingers.

0:35:190:35:23

These are the crab gills and they are grey and shrivelled. You shouldn't eat them.

0:35:230:35:28

Inside this part of the crab, you've got all the lovely brown crab meat.

0:35:280:35:32

But it's the sweet white meat I'm after for my crab cakes and most of that is found in the claws.

0:35:320:35:39

Just slightly crack them

0:35:390:35:41

and again, a little bash there.

0:35:410:35:44

Think of someone you hate at the moment when you're banging it.

0:35:440:35:49

Then scrape out all that flaky white meat, making sure you get into all those hard-to-reach places.

0:35:490:35:55

Just use the back of the spoon and pull away all the crab meat like so.

0:35:550:36:00

But if all this looks too much like hard work,

0:36:010:36:05

you can ask your fishmonger to do it for you. But I say give it a go.

0:36:050:36:10

Some people get very nervous about it, but there's nothing better than being at the beach

0:36:100:36:15

and really tucking into crab like this. Loads of lemon juice, touch of mayonnaise and you're away.

0:36:150:36:22

OK, a final little one here.

0:36:220:36:25

Don't throw any shells away.

0:36:260:36:29

You can make them into soup or into bisque. They're great to make a little crab sauce.

0:36:290:36:34

Once you've picked all the meat, check for any sneaky bits of shell.

0:36:340:36:39

Tip a little bit out each time, then with your fingers, just literally go through it like that.

0:36:390:36:46

And that's it. It's dead easy really.

0:36:460:36:49

So is turning it into crab cakes.

0:36:510:36:53

All you need to do is blitz up some spring onion, ginger and chilli.

0:36:530:36:57

They're all going to be used to spice it up.

0:36:570:37:00

And add it to the crab meat.

0:37:000:37:03

It's the most simple dish ever. Just mix that all together like that.

0:37:030:37:07

And throw in some fresh coriander.

0:37:070:37:10

If you don't want to use coriander, basil is another nice herb that you can add to it as well.

0:37:100:37:16

Then it's in with some whisked egg, some salt and pepper...

0:37:160:37:20

..and breadcrumbs to help bind it, and you're ready to roll.

0:37:210:37:26

Classic American dish. When we had a restaurant in the States, everyone wanted to eat crab cakes.

0:37:260:37:32

They love them. And we should make them such a thing on our menus over here.

0:37:320:37:37

Then we're just going to pat them down.

0:37:370:37:40

Just like so, about half an inch thick.

0:37:400:37:43

The smell is absolutely delicious. How simple is that?

0:37:430:37:48

All they need now is a crisp breadcrumb coating, held in place with a bit of flour and egg.

0:37:480:37:54

The first thing you need to do is dip the crab into the flour or do them two at a time.

0:37:540:38:01

Great little job to do with kids.

0:38:010:38:03

They like dipping their hands in loads of nonsense and it's perfect to do that.

0:38:030:38:08

You can even at this stage freeze them.

0:38:080:38:11

When you bring them out to cook them, make sure they've defrosted overnight in a fridge.

0:38:110:38:17

Then simply fry them in olive oil.

0:38:180:38:20

You just want to lightly move them around,

0:38:200:38:24

just so they get a nice, even golden brown colour.

0:38:240:38:29

And when they're gorgeous and crispy on both sides,

0:38:290:38:33

get them on to a tray and into the oven to warm through.

0:38:330:38:37

Oh, God, they look amazing, absolutely delicious. They've been in for about ten minutes.

0:38:380:38:44

Put your spoon in the end. Go straight into the centre and bring it to your lips.

0:38:440:38:49

It feels hot, so you know they're thoroughly cooked through.

0:38:490:38:53

All these need now is a spoonful of sweet chilli jam, a fresh green salad and a slice of lemon.

0:38:530:39:00

A little bit of olive oil on your salad, just a drizzle,

0:39:000:39:04

and we're going to put two of the crab cakes straight on like so.

0:39:040:39:09

And a squeeze of lemon as well.

0:39:100:39:12

So all finished.

0:39:140:39:17

They look absolutely amazing. I'm sure they taste amazing.

0:39:170:39:20

I'll just tuck in here.

0:39:200:39:22

You can see straight away that fantastic crab there. Beautiful.

0:39:220:39:27

Hmm!

0:39:290:39:31

Why are we getting rid of this stuff abroad?

0:39:310:39:34

It tastes amazing, so simple to do.

0:39:340:39:36

It's full of the flavours of the sea. They're delicious, even if I say so myself.

0:39:360:39:42

'No attempt to revive the British crab would be worth its salt without a trip to the seaside,

0:39:460:39:51

'so I'm off to Swanage on the Dorset coast

0:39:510:39:55

'to find out more from a fisherman whose family have been catching crab for five generations.'

0:39:550:40:01

I'm just waiting for Jeff who you can see just coming in now.

0:40:010:40:05

I've eaten nothing this morning because when I go on a boat, I normally throw up.

0:40:050:40:11

'Jeff Lander catches brown crab for the British market and spider crab which he exports abroad.

0:40:110:40:17

'He is one of only a few full-time crab fishermen left in the area.'

0:40:170:40:21

-Hi, Jeff.

-Hi, Angela.

-I feel like the Queen!

-There's your life-jacket.

0:40:210:40:25

'It's a dying trade and one we need to support, seasickness or not.'

0:40:250:40:30

Ahoy there, sailor!

0:40:310:40:33

'Jeff uses a baited potting system

0:40:330:40:36

'and, thanks to checking and re-baiting his 500 pots six days a week,

0:40:360:40:41

'has a fine pair of sea legs unlike me.'

0:40:410:40:45

I'm gripping Jeff with all my might because I feel we're like this.

0:40:450:40:50

Explain what's going on, Jeff.

0:40:500:40:52

We're going to lift the pots up. We're going to empty the crabs out.

0:40:520:40:56

And you've got all these pots attached to one another?

0:40:560:41:00

-They're all attached.

-How many do you have in one line?

-In one line, there's 30.

-OK.

0:41:000:41:05

-You've got to be careful.

-That one's going back in.

-That one's small anyway, so he can go back.

0:41:050:41:11

'Jeff pulls in 100 to 150 kilos of brown crab a day during peak season

0:41:110:41:17

'and like all good fishermen, throws the small ones back to protect future stocks and his livelihood.'

0:41:170:41:23

-That's a good crab.

-Those ones are all too small.

0:41:230:41:26

-That one's all right.

-This poor little bubba, back in.

0:41:260:41:30

'And size isn't the only factor as crab shed their shells as part of their growth cycle.'

0:41:300:41:36

-When you say it's a soft shell, it feels soft?

-It's a new-shell crab.

0:41:360:41:40

-It's shed its old shell and it's going to regrow?

-Yeah.

0:41:400:41:44

-It's regrown and now it takes time to harden.

-Right, OK. So it's not at peak condition.

0:41:440:41:49

-This is a better crab.

-That looks great. That's nice and hard.

0:41:490:41:53

-Can we take that home to eat?

-You can take that one home to eat.

0:41:530:41:57

Perfect.

0:41:570:41:59

'Now I've got my tea sorted, I'm hoping we can head back to shore.

0:41:590:42:03

'But the crabs keep on coming and not just the brown crabs.'

0:42:030:42:07

-That's a female spider crab.

-Wow! How many of those do you get?

-At this time of the year, not that many.

0:42:070:42:13

It's a summertime thing - May through to August, September.

0:42:130:42:17

'And we eat even less spider crab than brown crab,

0:42:170:42:20

'despite them being common to our shores. It's sickening really.'

0:42:200:42:24

-Are you all right, Angela?

-Yeah, yeah. It'd just be good to turn around now.

0:42:240:42:29

We've done that. Been crab-fishing. Tick that box. Don't need to do that again, thanks very much.

0:42:290:42:35

I don't want to vomit on the crabs!

0:42:350:42:38

'Back on dry land and a little less green around the gills, I'm off to meet a man

0:42:380:42:43

'who cooks up a staggering 90 crabs a day in the summer.'

0:42:430:42:48

You'd like these to eat now?

0:42:480:42:50

'Mick Storer has been dishing up crab for 28 years

0:42:500:42:53

'and will show me a few trade secrets with these cooked crabs.'

0:42:530:42:57

-Take the legs off first?

-No.

0:42:570:42:59

I turns him round, puts my thumbs on the back, pushes it and he opens up. Tickety-boo!

0:42:590:43:04

Oh, I've got no strength!

0:43:040:43:07

You can do it any way you like.

0:43:070:43:10

Yeah, I'm really useless. Then bring that all out like that. Wow!

0:43:100:43:14

'Mick knows everything about the gills or dead man's fingers.'

0:43:140:43:18

-Do they think they're poisonous?

-Yeah. It depends on where they've been feeding.

0:43:180:43:23

-So they could be.

-Depending on the clarity of their water.

0:43:230:43:27

'And has prepping crab down to a fine art.'

0:43:270:43:30

And then a simple trick.

0:43:300:43:32

If you put your finger close to all the legs and pull at once...

0:43:320:43:37

Oh, I did that one perfectly.

0:43:370:43:39

-All the meat comes out in one go.

-Oh, yeah.

0:43:390:43:42

-You haven't got to pick it out.

-Very good.

-You've just saved yourself a few minutes.

0:43:420:43:47

I love your top tips there, Mick.

0:43:470:43:50

Then we're going to dress the crab in the classic English way. You've got all the brown meat there.

0:43:500:43:56

All the brown meat on the bottom. Just pop the white meat on top.

0:43:560:44:00

-You just leave it all there because you've taken all the rubbish bits out.

-This is the way you eat it.

0:44:000:44:06

-Fantastic.

-'It's a favourite with his customers too. At under £5 a head, it's cheaper than fish and chips.'

0:44:060:44:13

So that's my lunch. You're an officer and a gentleman. Beautiful.

0:44:130:44:17

-You can't get better than that - beautiful British crab.

-Bottle of wine, tickety-boo!

-Beautiful.

0:44:170:44:23

It's been a fantastic experience from fishing the crabs to cooking them and now eating them.

0:44:240:44:30

And the flavour is second to none without having to do too much to it, except prep it.

0:44:300:44:36

One of the best things about today that I've learnt is the abundance of it.

0:44:360:44:41

I've always naively thought that we didn't have loads of crab.

0:44:410:44:45

We have loads of crab, but we're exporting them.

0:44:450:44:49

We have to make sure it's coming straight to us, not going abroad.

0:44:490:44:53

'And there's plenty more we can do with it.

0:44:540:44:57

Just to show how versatile crab is,

0:44:570:45:00

I'm going to do the most amazing crab linguine.

0:45:000:45:04

To start off, season our water with rock salt. Make sure it's nice and boiling.

0:45:040:45:09

Just straight away, add your linguine in.

0:45:090:45:12

I prefer dried to fresh linguine and cook it for seven to eight minutes to retain its al dente bite,

0:45:120:45:18

which is more than enough time to make my sauce.

0:45:180:45:21

Just to start off, we're going to put quite a bit of olive oil in the bottom of the pan.

0:45:210:45:27

And add some full-on flavours,

0:45:270:45:30

starting with garlic, about a clove.

0:45:300:45:32

Cut your knife through it very lightly.

0:45:320:45:35

And for heat, some de-seeded red chilli.

0:45:350:45:38

Chilli is fantastic with crab.

0:45:380:45:41

It really enhances the flavour without overkill and making it too spicy.

0:45:410:45:46

So that straight in the pan like so.

0:45:460:45:49

And I want some fragrant herbs.

0:45:490:45:51

Some fresh flat-leaf parsley and some lovely, fresh basil.

0:45:510:45:55

All these lovely, fresh herbs are great with crab.

0:45:550:45:59

They really enhance the flavour, basil especially.

0:45:590:46:03

You've got the sweetness of the basil and of the crab.

0:46:030:46:06

We got this fantastic crab here from Jeff down in Swanage, down in Dorset.

0:46:060:46:11

He's one of the few left in this country, so we need to start getting these guys back out on the sea.

0:46:110:46:18

That means eating more delicious British crab meat which is hardly a hardship.

0:46:180:46:23

We'll deglaze it with a bit of white wine.

0:46:230:46:26

Put a little bit of salt in with our crab here, a little bit of black pepper.

0:46:260:46:31

Add our spring onions in.

0:46:310:46:34

Along with a little bit of lemon zest just to give it that freshness.

0:46:360:46:40

And that's it. It's dead simple.

0:46:400:46:43

This dish works as a main course for two people or for four as a starter.

0:46:430:46:47

When we put it on at the restaurant, people absolutely go mad for crab linguine.

0:46:470:46:52

So our pasta's done. I'm going to tip it out.

0:46:520:46:55

Just give it a really good shake.

0:46:560:47:00

Straight into there.

0:47:000:47:02

Add our parsley, add our basil.

0:47:040:47:08

Then really give it a great, nice toss there,

0:47:080:47:12

so you get all the crab going right through the pasta.

0:47:120:47:15

And there you have it, a deliciously straightforward crab supper.

0:47:150:47:20

Just before you eat it, do a little squeeze of lemon juice. It brings out that amazing crab flavour.

0:47:200:47:27

So you couldn't ask for anything better.

0:47:270:47:30

You've got linguine with fresh basil and parsley, but most importantly, the most amazing Dorset crab.

0:47:300:47:36

Hmm!

0:47:370:47:39

That really is good.

0:47:390:47:42

'One reason we're not eating enough crab is because it's hard to come by in supermarkets.

0:47:460:47:51

'So I've come to Hampton in Middlesex to visit a company

0:47:510:47:55

'who are trying to change things.'

0:47:550:47:58

If you don't like the idea of cooking fresh, live crab, I've got the perfect solution right now.

0:47:580:48:04

'The answer is pasteurised crab meat,

0:48:050:48:08

'but not the frozen, "steamed within an inch of its life" stuff of yesteryear. This is the real deal.'

0:48:080:48:14

-The fresh crab comes from Cornwall. It's all picked by hand, then we pack it into these small pots.

-Yeah.

0:48:140:48:21

-What's that? 100 grams?

-Yeah. That's done so we get a portion for two people.

0:48:210:48:26

'It's then vac-packed and steamed or pasteurised at a temperature that ensures it is safe to eat.'

0:48:260:48:33

By pasteurising it, how long does that it increase its shelf life for?

0:48:330:48:37

-From four days as a fresh product to 14.

-Wow!

0:48:370:48:40

-That's a long time.

-It makes it a lot more plausible for supermarkets to be able to sell it on that basis.

0:48:400:48:46

'So how does it compare to fresh crab meat?'

0:48:490:48:52

The only reason I think that is the fresh crab and that's pasteurised is because of colour.

0:48:520:48:58

-Taste-wise, there's absolutely no difference.

-You're right.

0:48:580:49:02

I've tasted pasteurised before which is watery and insipid, but that's really delicious.

0:49:020:49:07

-Thank you.

-I'll take them with me!

0:49:070:49:10

So that's a great way of getting crab into the supermarkets and out to the mass consumer.

0:49:100:49:16

The taste was absolutely amazing.

0:49:160:49:19

But if we really want to see a culture that's been embracing eating crab for years,

0:49:190:49:24

I've got to see my Spanish friends.

0:49:240:49:27

'Sadly, not in Spain, but in London's Soho instead.'

0:49:270:49:31

The Spanish love seafood. They eat more seafood

0:49:310:49:35

than anyone apart from the Japanese,

0:49:350:49:37

so crab is really important to them.

0:49:370:49:39

And also I think one could argue

0:49:390:49:42

that the Spanish are much more likely to get their hands dirty when it comes to eating.

0:49:420:49:47

You have to get involved in extracting all those sweet bits of meat.

0:49:470:49:52

'A lesson we can learn from head chef Nieves who brought her passion for crab from the Basque Country.'

0:49:520:49:59

Why do the Spanish eat more crab than the Brits?

0:49:590:50:02

You go to Spain and you have big crabs on the table. You start picking it.

0:50:020:50:07

You drink wine and cava with it.

0:50:070:50:09

It's really common for us to have crab and seafood,

0:50:090:50:13

-especially at Christmas.

-Why is that?

0:50:130:50:15

-Why has Spain embraced crab more than the Brits when we've got it all round the island?

-I don't know.

0:50:150:50:21

-It tastes delicious.

-Yeah.

-It's not expensive and it's special. You know, it's something you...

0:50:210:50:27

I think it's a cultural thing that the Spanish, like the Italians and French, eat together.

0:50:270:50:33

-It's a family thing, a sharing thing.

-Maybe, yeah.

0:50:330:50:36

'This isn't the only Spanish tradition to involve crab.

0:50:360:50:40

'Spider crab stew is a speciality too.'

0:50:400:50:43

-So this is the fantastic spider crab?

-Yeah, that's a spider crab.

0:50:430:50:48

-So normally what you do, you put all the mix in here.

-Yeah.

0:50:480:50:52

-Then you put this on top like that and you'd serve that whole.

-Yes.

0:50:520:50:56

-That's what you do traditionally in the Basque Country in Spain?

-Yes.

0:50:560:51:01

'The Spanish use crab in just about everything from simple tapas to elegant souffles like this one.'

0:51:010:51:07

I'm going in for the kill.

0:51:070:51:10

Oh, my God, it's so good.

0:51:110:51:14

-If people ate crab like this, they would eat crab all the time.

-Yeah.

-That is so nice.

-Thank you.

0:51:140:51:20

'That's exactly what we need to do if we're going to revive it.'

0:51:200:51:24

We've got to embrace that Spanish and Italian culture that sits down and eats it together as a family.

0:51:240:51:30

It's an amazing product and we shouldn't give it away.

0:51:300:51:33

We should eat it every week on the British dining table.

0:51:330:51:37

For dressing it, we're going to look at what bits you don't want.

0:51:370:51:41

'If you're still not sure about preparing crab from scratch,

0:51:410:51:45

'many courses around the UK will take you through it step by step, like this one at Billingsgate.'

0:51:450:51:51

People who come on these courses are nervous about handling it.

0:51:510:51:55

They're worried about food poisoning.

0:51:550:51:57

If you're faced with a whole crab, they think, "What do I do with that?" Demystifying it is the key thing.

0:51:570:52:03

This is the main body. A lot of people chuck that out, but there are lots of cavities in the shell here.

0:52:030:52:10

When you first look at a crab, it's daunting.

0:52:100:52:13

But when someone explains to you how to do it, it's fairly easy.

0:52:130:52:18

I'd be happy to go to a fishmonger's now, buy a crab and dress it myself.

0:52:180:52:23

I was always quite concerned as to what parts I should keep and what parts I shouldn't,

0:52:230:52:28

so that's a bit clearer now.

0:52:280:52:30

A course like this is absolutely fantastic.

0:52:300:52:33

Seeing how to do it is an awful lot easier than reading about it.

0:52:330:52:37

'So come on, folks. It's time to start cooking and eating more crab.

0:52:370:52:42

'And I've saved my best dish till last.'

0:52:420:52:45

For my third dish, I'll use the spider crab.

0:52:450:52:49

I'll take out all the meat, make it into a lovely, spicy, tomato ragout,

0:52:490:52:53

put it back in and serve it in the crab.

0:52:530:52:57

This crab is cooked and ready to pick. We prepare the spider crab the same way as you would a brown crab.

0:53:010:53:07

I'm going to start the normal way by basically removing the base of the shell,

0:53:070:53:12

so they separate like so.

0:53:120:53:15

Nieves uses spider crab in her cuisine all the time. It's a real favourite amongst the Spanish.

0:53:150:53:21

We forget we have it in our country.

0:53:210:53:23

We'll eat it in Spain and France, but in fact all they're doing is importing it from the UK.

0:53:230:53:29

So we've got to make sure we start using it here.

0:53:290:53:33

Again take off all the dead man's fingers, as they say.

0:53:330:53:37

The great thing about this is the presentation. I love it and so will your friends at your dinner table.

0:53:440:53:51

I'm going to keep the shell.

0:53:510:53:53

We're just going to rinse that because we're going to use that to serve our spider crab.

0:53:530:53:58

Then you can see you've got really juicy, quite wet crab meat.

0:53:580:54:03

And it has that really lovely, salty sort of flavour of the sea.

0:54:030:54:07

Time to get on with the ragout itself which starts with celery, leeks and shallots.

0:54:070:54:14

Straight into a pan with olive oil and we're just going to lightly saute that down.

0:54:140:54:20

A little bit of pepper and salt just to sort of start it off.

0:54:200:54:24

And then some finely chopped ginger.

0:54:270:54:30

And the ginger really does give it that sort of oriental, spicy flavour to it which is fantastic.

0:54:300:54:36

Then it's in with some sweet cherry tomatoes and a good squeeze of tomato puree.

0:54:360:54:41

And that will help to keep the sauce nice and thick.

0:54:420:54:46

For acidity, a glug of white wine vinegar.

0:54:460:54:49

Followed by the zest and juice of a lemon.

0:54:500:54:53

If you want, you can really spice this up.

0:54:530:54:56

You can add a little bit of honey to it if you wanted to really have that sweet and sour effect.

0:54:560:55:02

A bit of maple syrup as well.

0:55:020:55:04

I'm going to keep it more on the salty side than the sweet side.

0:55:040:55:08

And once the tomatoes have broken down, we add our juicy spider crab.

0:55:080:55:13

As soon as that goes in, we deglaze it with a bit of brandy.

0:55:150:55:19

Brandy is the perfect accompaniment to crab meat or any sort of light fish sauces.

0:55:190:55:24

It just gives it a little boost.

0:55:240:55:27

And our final little ingredient, just to give it a little bit of a kick, is Tabasco.

0:55:270:55:33

To taste, obviously. Then off the heat, stir through some sweet basil, my herb of choice with crab.

0:55:330:55:39

So straight into the shell like so.

0:55:390:55:42

All I've done is just wash it out and make sure it's clean and dry.

0:55:420:55:46

And once it's all in there,

0:55:460:55:49

scatter some grated Gruyere, Parmesan and breadcrumbs.

0:55:490:55:53

So the last little bit of breadcrumbs and cheese on there

0:55:530:55:57

and then in the oven.

0:55:570:55:59

After three or four minutes under a hot grill, it will be gorgeous, bubbling, golden brown.

0:56:030:56:08

So there you have it - a beautiful, gratinated spider crab.

0:56:080:56:13

This is such a meal in itself with the spider crab, the tomato, the leek,

0:56:130:56:18

onions, celery. Really delicious!

0:56:180:56:20

That's the real shame of it all. We've got the most amazing product

0:56:200:56:25

from brown crabs down in Cornwall and Dorset, spider crabs and the Norfolk Cromer crabs.

0:56:250:56:30

We should be using this stuff daily in our cooking, instead of exporting it.

0:56:300:56:35

I hope you'll with me revive the Great British crab.

0:56:350:56:39

Really make an effort and do these simple recipes I showed you and use crab every week.

0:56:390:56:45

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