Beef and Shellfish Great British Food Revival


Beef and Shellfish

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We're here to put Britain back on the food map. We're on a mission to

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save fantastic British produce from extinction. But we need your help.

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Essential ingredients that have been here for centurys: Are in

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danger of disappearing... Forever. We want everyone to get back to

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culinary basics... And help us revive our... Magnificent... Mouth

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watering... Unique... This is an extraordinary tale of a

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struggle for survival. Despite producing some of the finest

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quality food, world-class, in fact, it's on the verge of extinction,

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but there are signs of a fight-back, and you can join the battle. My

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name is John Torode, and I'm determined to persuade you to get

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behind these bovine beauties and to In my campaign, I find out how

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serious the loss of rare-breed cattle could be. It would be

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catastrophic if these animals disappeared. These White Parks go

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back to the fifth century. How one man's passion helped save a breed

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from extinction. I make no claim of our breed being the best, but I

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don't know if any others that are better. And I'll be cooking my

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version of the perfect British Sunday roast.

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I don't think it gets much better Look. Don't get me wrong. We eat

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plenty of beef in this country, but many of us are missing out on the

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stuff that is absolutely fantastic, the sort of beef that makes your

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heart thump when you cook it. You can smell it. It's just the joy of

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true beef flavour and beef smell, and the animals - these animals -

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that produce that type of beef, are truly in threat of extinction.

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Britain has lost six native breeds of cattle. They're never coming

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back. Even now, there are five rare breed species on the critical list.

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They're nearly extinct. When I first arrived in deloon 20-odd

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years ago British beef wasn't that celebrated. I actually wasn't that

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enthusiastic about it until the time I tasted a piece of rare breed

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beef cooked over charcoal, then things changed. It was deep, it was

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smoky, it was delicious. It was salty. It had true texture, and for

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me, it tasted like proper meat. Of course, from then, my life changed,

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and now one of my most favourite things in the world is to take a

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piece of well-hung beef, roast it simply for my friends, sit down

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with a glass of wine and celebrate the beauty of the bovine. But if

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these native breeds become extinct, we'll never be able to savour that

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sensational taste again, and it's up to you whether you want to do

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something about it to. Kick off my campaign I am heading to the

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National Trust Women poll Park Farm. I want to find out exactly how we

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nearly lost our native breeds. I am meeting Richard Broad from the Rare

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Breed Survival Trust. How many different breeds were

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there in the UK? I suppose within the cattle, there was probably a

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breed from most of the different regions. Of course, the Second

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World War within the UK, farming changed completely, didn't it?

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the 1947 Agricultural Act paid people to produce food - didn't

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matter what quality it was. They just wanted numbers of cows,

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numbers of sheep, numbers of pigs. The more modern breeds were more

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readily available and could more easily be intensified. This

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National Trust farm works closely with the Trust in their attempt to

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reverse history. They're running a commercial farm that stocks and

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cultivates rare breeds. I am getting a tour with their manager,

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Richard Morris. These are our Irish Moiled and Gloucesters here. I

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haven't got a Gloucester bull this gee, I am running them with the

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Irish Moileds. You don't see many of these. You don't. In the '50s we

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were down to three cows and two stock bulls, which has meant now

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it's incredibly difficult to find a bull that isn't related to your

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cows, so what you do now is find one that is least related. It does

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make it difficult. Right. We call them the secret lovers. You never

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see the bulwarking, but he does the job. Such a beautiful breed. Nearby

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they're also farming Gloucesters, White Parks and Shetlands. All are

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on the rare breed watch list. Why would you want to be doing this?

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Every animal has an intrinsic value. It's incredibly important we keep

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these going. It would be catastrophic if these breeds

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disappeared. These White Parks go back to the fifth century. We have

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to keep them going. We have to keep that broad diversity of genetics.

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If there was a difference in tai, what would you say? I would say the

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quintessential English roast, it's nicely marbled on the outside and

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strong textured. If it's hung well, it's cooked well, it's just

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exquisite, it's just beautiful. You start talking about beef and my

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teeth start tingling. But meeting farmers like this gives me great

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hope we are reviving the traditional breeds, and we can

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continue to eat great British rare breed beef. My strategy now has to

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convince you to go out and buy some rare breedby. Of course, in the

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revival kitchen I am going to be cooking something truly delicious,

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a classic piece of beef. This beautiful piece of meat is a

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Toscana. That is usually served in Italy. We may know it in this

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country as a T-bone steak, but the really important part of this

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wonderful piece of beef is the outside layer of fat to keep it

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lovely and moist, but more importantly, inside these little

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tiny rivers of fat, which are called marbling, and without

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marbling, this piece of beef would be as tough as old boots. You may

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as well get yourself a piece of cardboard, cover it with gravy and

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just eat it and believe you're eating steak because this piece of

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beef is a beautiful thing, and this is my Toscana with shard, shallots

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and thyme. Between this piece of fat is a tiny, tiny white piece of

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sinew. That piece of sinew, when the heat hits it, will act like an

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elastic band. That band will shrink, and the piece of meat that sits

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underneath will shrink as well and become quite tough, so we need to

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be able to make sure that flesh relaxes as it cooks rather than it

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pulling together, so what I do is simply take a knife and make little

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score firstly through the fat so I can see where the sinew is,ed a

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once I've done that then I can actually attack the piece of sinew

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underneath. Now that my White Park steak is prepared, there are some

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golden rules about cook it - hot pan, so hot you can't put your hand

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above it. Oil the meat, not the pan, and just a plain vegetable oil, not

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olive. Then put your meat down and listen

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to it sizzle. Turn once each side is seared. If it tugs when you lift

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it, it's not ready. Everybody has a preference how they want their beef

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cooked. Really, that's up to you how you want to eat it. For me it

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needs to be more medium-ish because if it's rare, it's cold on the bone,

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and it's a little bit jelly-like, so I like it to be cooked through

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and for the blood and all the juice just to be coming out and you get

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the full flavour of the beef. Once it's seared all over, pour the

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juices on from the griddle and pop it in the oven to cook 200 degrees.

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I am going to prepare some veg to go with it, first, these shard. I

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have separated the leaves and dropped the stocks into some hot

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water to soften them for a few minutes. Into a hot pan add butter,

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a segment of lemon. Add chopped anchovies, a spoonful of cape, then

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your shard. I have shallots in another pan with thyme and beef

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stock. Our beef is ready to come out. I love that smell, just

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absolutely love it. That lovely smell of just roasting beef, and I

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need to just let it rest. This piece of beef is a decent hunk of

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beef, and the actual volume of beef that's left over after we've cooked

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it is still a large quantity. This is a piece of beef which is about

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three years old, and sometimes if we're buying continental breeds in

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supermarkets, the beef is a lot younger. It doesn't have the

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structure to the muscle, it doesn't have the marbling, and you could

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end up losing about 50% of that meat just by buying a piece of meat

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very, very cheaply, so buy decent beef. It's a completely different

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flavour. It's a different texture, and when you eat it, you'll taste

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After the steak has rested for the same time it took to cook, you can

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plate up - shard, then your carved beef, shallots and a drizzle of the

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juices. Now, of course, the joy of cooking any amazing piece of beef

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is to get to eat it. There is a huge amount going on on this plate,

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but everything goes beautifully You know that really familiar brand

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of beef - the one that all the steakhouses and the fast food

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burgers name themselves after? Well, would you be surprised to learn

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that the original pure Aberdeen Angus is on the rare breed survival

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trust critical list. It's close to extinction. So I have come to meet

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farmer Geordie Suitor who started to revive the breed when he

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realised we're nearly wiped out, and do you know, I have never seen

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an Aberdeen Angus up close. Wow! There is that square frame you see

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in all of the original breeds. That and absolute straight back,

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straight down, a decent-sized bum, but not really fat, and just

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recollect angle, and they're extraordinary. What exactly is an

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Aberdeen Angus? The original Aberdeen Angus were started way

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back - the first one started in the 1850s. Pure-bred Aberdeen Angus was

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in danger of extinction? Yes. many were left when you started

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this? Off the top of my head, 30, 40 at the outside. I see a huge

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merit in these animals. There's just a quality about them that has

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been lost over the years. These cattle do not need cereals. The

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conversion is wrong. You're giving an animal ten kilos of a protein

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that a human could eat to gain two kilos. It just doesn't work. It

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comes back to the fact that as time goes on, grain will be needed to

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feed the world population. These guys can eat grass. What about the

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argument of simply we should be eating less beef, but more of the

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good stuff? Well, I would subscribe to that theory without a shadow of

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a doubt. If anybody is going to know about

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quality, it will be the local butcher who sells beef including

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Geordie's pure breed Aberdeen Angus beef. They take longer to mature,

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and they're traditionally grass fed. The flavour is very different. It's

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very sweet. It's very tender. Because it's slow grown, the grain

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is fine. It's not the grain system of the continentals will have.

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You'll see the difference in the colour of the fat. The quality of

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the eating is there, and people notice that. It's too tempting. I

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have to taste the difference between pure-breed Aberdeen Angus

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and a nonrare breed. That Aberdeen Angus is extraordinary, the

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sweetness from the grass, the smokiness that goes with it, is

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subtle, but still really, really rich, and because it has been

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hanging for a decent amount of time, it has that lovely dry texture to

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it as well. That is amazing. That is amazing! How do you think these

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two will compare to each other on flavour? On flavour alone? The

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purely grass-fed Aberdeen Angus It is extraordinary that this one

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man has the dream of a single heard with be that will taste

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extraordinary. The irony is that, for this beef to survive, we have

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to continue to meet it. I have a recipe that guarantees to encourage

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you to do that. And it uses one of the cheapest cuts of beef. This is

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a shin of beef. It is the type of meat that needs to be cooked long

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and slowly. For me, this is the sort of thing that warms your heart.

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It takes hours in the oven. It is sensational. This is my braised

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shin of beef with * Nice and parsnip puree. -- star anise.

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The is has been maturing for quite a long time. That is a good thing.

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The more it sits around, the more tender it gets. I am cutting of the

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flesh from the born, but your butcher will happily do it for you.

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When you meet people like Geordie, who are so passionate about what

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they do, it is pretty inspiring to think that they spend their life

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taking their time to bring back a traditional breed and let us taste

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that meet that we should be all the time. Get a casserole and put it on

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a high heat. Let the pieces of beef sector, do not jiggle them around.

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You're looking for a dark colour, a really dark, because that is where

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the flavour comes from. Do not put too many at once, the beef will go

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soggy. It needs other ingredients to add sweetness, ingredients to

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make it stretch a little further, and also for the sauce to become

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fruity. For the sauce, crush some garlic, peeled onion, some celery

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and carrots, and pop them into the casserole. A great source has to

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have many dimensions - as weakness -- sweetness, star anise and acid.

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That is there to break down the sinew in the beef. That leaves you

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with a piece of beef that is soft and succulent when you taste it. I

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add a bit of red wine and my secret Aussie twist. Soy sauce and fish

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sauce. I am going to add fish sauce rather than salt because I think it

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gives more of a rounded flavour. The same thing with the soy sauce.

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It starts to smell of berries and liquorice and tobacco. It is

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becoming quite manly and Butch. That does not mean that the girls

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cannot eat it! But it is very strong to make the sauce thick and

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shiny I am going to add a pig's Trotter. The gelatin will ensure

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that the stew sparkles. The fruitiness that comes from Port the,

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the acid and strength of berries that come from red-wine are going

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beautifully with the liquorice. Put the beef back in, bring to the boil,

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then a tablespoon of fish sauce and soy sauce. The beef is nearly

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cooked. To accompany it, I have boiled some parsnips in milk and

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pureed them together into more of a source than a masher. This sauce is

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reduced and then meet is starting to show the beautiful nature of

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that sweet, sticky sauce. -- than I am not sure, I will have to have

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another one. There are huge, rich, big flavours surrounding that beef.

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The parsnip is also huge. Inside, you can taste the beef. Do me a

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favour - get yourself a decent butcher and go and talk to them

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about a rare red traditional -- about a rare round traditional

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breeds. ETA steak. -- eat a steak. In Scotland, we have found a breed

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that is on the brink of extinction. Only time will tell whether the

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Aberdeen Angus will survive. But there is hope. It comes from the

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success story of Father and son team, bald and Tom Williams. They

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have put their heart and soul into some of -- reviving these Longhorn

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cattle. What is so special about them? I was brought up in Suffolk.

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I saw them as a little boy being exhibited at the Suffolk Show. I

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thought, one day I will have some of those myself. I passionately

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feel for their beauty. As a little boy, what do you go for? You go for

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their horns, their temperament, their colour. All of those things.

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I would find it difficult to keep any other breed. I have had these

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for over 30 years. As ever, the most important thing is flavour. Do

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they taste they needed? A butcher's tell me that the marbling of the

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meat -- the butchers. The marbling of the meat is very good. I make no

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claim that it is the best, but I do not know of any meat that is better.

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I have to say, up as a cook and as an Australian who was not excited

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about beef, when I started to taste the flight this I was enamoured. I

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have to say thank you because it is brilliant. It is lovely to see that

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the work you have done has taken his breed and it is becoming

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commonplace. And I can tell you that there are

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few Australians taking out long horns. Good! Bob's son is taking on

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the mantle and is ensuring the success of the business. I am 32.

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My parents bought their first one when I was born. It is really great

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to have a continuation of that breeding herd. The breed has really

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improved in numbers and so on. We have great sales of beef and, with

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conservation grazing, it has turned into a great business. People will

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be unaware that you need to graze certain parts of the country - you

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cannot get them with big machinery, so you have to have animals in

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place to make sure you keep it at a certain level, is that right?

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Cattle are fantastic for conservation. I think the key to

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any successful farming operation is making sure that you're end product

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is sold down the correct streams. We do not have launched quantities

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so we need to make sure we sell them at a premium. -- large

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quantities. I would say that is the good key to success.

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Here is the one we have been waiting for - the quintessential

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British Sunday lunch, using some very British Longhorn beef. Roast

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British beef, roast British rare breed beef, probably the most

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important meal served to the British public and indeed the world

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over. For me, the best piece of roast beef comes from this

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wonderful, absolutely extraordinary forerib rib. It has been worked

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quite a bit, so it really has depth. At the same time, when roasted

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slowly, it is tender and melt in the mouth. This will be my slow

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roast rib of beef with Yorkshire puddings. This is a really

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expensive piece of meat, but that piece of meat will feed a whole

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family at Christmas. That actually means that it is quite good value.

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Keep the fat. I will say it again. It is essential for moisture during

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cooking, and you can always cut off the excess later. Score it, rump

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oil my collarette. I am going to put a mustard crust on it. I like

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stuffing. -- Rob oil Mack all over it. Growing up in Australia, we did

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not do Yorkshire puddings. My grandmother did lots and lots of

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stuffing. I think it is because everything was expensive and she

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wanted to stretch and get good value for money. It was not until I

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got here, 20 odd years ago, that I learned how to make a Yorkshire

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pudding. They are pretty good. Even as an Aussie. Combine breadcrumbs,

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wholegrain mustard, a couple of eggs, fried chopped onions, water

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and pepper. It is a decent piece of beef, it deserves good seasoning.

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Put some carrots in the pan. Plaster all of that wonderful crust

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on top. Add water to the pan to stop it burning and olive oil to

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stop it sticking. Put it in a preheated oven at 220 Celsius.

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Immediately drop it and leave it That is stunning. And the crust has

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gone crispy on top, the fat is starting to melt away inside here.

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The ire of the meat is lovely and Brown. - eye of the meat. Whatever

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you do, do not carve it now. It needs to relax. This is where we go

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wrong. Give it a rest, Britain. Use the time to get your Yorkshire

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puddings cooked my way. Pour your milk into a bowl, add eight eggs.

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There will be people screaming, saying, what do you think you're

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doing? This is how I make Yorkshire puddings. A lot of people put the

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flour in first, make a well in the middle. I do not think that works

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as well. Sometimes, the amount of delay that you have with the eggs

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and flour means the flower get lumpy. This way, I mix my eggs and

:27:02.:27:10.

my milk and salt together. Then add your flour and whisky. Keep going

:27:10.:27:18.

until your biceps look like Popeye's. This gets rid of my bingo

:27:18.:27:24.

wings. Poppet on to the heat and put lard into each mould, not

:27:24.:27:29.

vegetable oil. That burns. Then wait until the fat is so hot that

:27:29.:27:39.

it shimmers. Sizzling, just to the top. Then straight in the oven. Get

:27:39.:27:46.

it in the oven as fast as you possibly can. When it is ready,

:27:46.:27:51.

take out your roast potatoes and my a delicious Yorkshire puddings, car

:27:51.:28:01.
:28:01.:28:15.

for the beef and serve it up with pride. -- carve the beef. That is

:28:15.:28:21.

roast beef and Yorkshire pudding, the Australian way.

:28:21.:28:25.

If British rare breed beef is to be saved, we all need to help out.

:28:25.:28:28.

These people in Suffolk were so interested in finding out about

:28:28.:28:35.

beef that they took up a new hobby - butchery. To get hands-on and

:28:35.:28:39.

understand the difference joints is fascinating. It is a great way to

:28:39.:28:44.

work up an appetite for later on. This class introduces where the

:28:44.:28:50.

cuts are and what they are used for. They get too did obituary. A course

:28:50.:28:53.

like this greatly increases the knowledge and makes you appreciate

:28:53.:28:57.

what goes into farming and butchery and putting a really good piece of

:28:57.:29:07.

What they'll take home from it really is a little bit of extra

:29:07.:29:12.

knowledge, so when they go to the butcher's, hopefully me, they can

:29:12.:29:17.

say, I'm going to have a brisket this time. I usually get topside,

:29:17.:29:21.

but that tasted fantastic. There are lots of these courses being

:29:21.:29:27.

held all over the country. To help, it's as simple as searching out the

:29:27.:29:34.

local meat from your butcher or going online.

:29:34.:29:39.

That is one seriously delicious, beautifully tender piece of

:29:39.:29:44.

Longhorn, slowly roasted so all the flavour stays in, but it stays

:29:45.:29:48.

wonderful and succulent, then served with a crusty Yorkshire

:29:48.:29:51.

pudding - I don't think it gets much better than that. Find

:29:51.:29:54.

yourself a good buter, demand the best, understand what you're eating,

:29:54.:29:59.

and I'll tell you what, it will pay dividends. You'll taste the

:29:59.:30:03.

difference every single time. Now, here's man with a reputation for

:30:03.:30:07.

loving food from the wild who's passionate about reviving another

:30:07.:30:11.

British produce that's plentiful but largely ignored.

:30:11.:30:15.

I'm Valentine Warner, and I'm very passionate about some truly

:30:15.:30:19.

fabulous British produce. It's delicious. It's healthy, and it's

:30:19.:30:25.

very sustainable. It's British shellfish. In particular, cockles

:30:25.:30:33.

and mussels, which are udgely undervalued in the UK. Look at all

:30:33.:30:37.

this amazing tasty British shellfish. It's massively lucrative

:30:37.:30:43.

market worth �300 million to UK fisheries. And where's it going?

:30:43.:30:49.

Abroad. It's my hope to help revive our British shellfish. Wow. I have

:30:50.:30:53.

never seen so many mussels in one go - ever.

:30:53.:31:00.

Trying my hand at cockle picking - a dying art that deserves our

:31:00.:31:03.

support and appetite. Absolutely back-breaking! And showing you how

:31:03.:31:10.

quick and easy it is to cook shellfish at home with some

:31:10.:31:15.

deliciously straight-forward cockle dishes, including my moreish

:31:15.:31:18.

stuffed mussel. I could easily do with a whole

:31:18.:31:23.

plate on my own. I have an insatiable appetite for British

:31:23.:31:28.

shellfish, born of childhood holidays spent by the sea. What I

:31:28.:31:33.

love is primarily the taste. For me, they're iconic. When I think of the

:31:33.:31:38.

British beach I don't just think about donkeys or candyfloss or bat

:31:38.:31:45.

and ball, I actually think of little bowls of cockles and whelks

:31:45.:31:48.

picked with a toothpick. And we Brits have been munching on it

:31:49.:31:53.

since we learned to fish. In fact, shellfish used to be sold by the

:31:53.:31:57.

pint outside our pubs not too long ago. So what'ss changed? I think

:31:57.:32:01.

one of the main reasons fresh British shellfish has fallen out of

:32:01.:32:06.

fashion is it's hard to get hold of especially inland. We may be an

:32:06.:32:11.

island nation, but there seems to be mainly frozen or cooked stuff in

:32:11.:32:15.

the supermarkets, and fing mongers are sadly few and far between. I am

:32:15.:32:21.

off to the coastal town of Swansea to see what we're missing. In 1939

:32:21.:32:26.

there were 10,000 fishmongers, thereAbout, in this country. Today

:32:27.:32:31.

there are approximately 10,000. That's pretty sad. But there is one

:32:31.:32:38.

place where buying fresh fish is thriving, and one of those places

:32:38.:32:43.

is Swansea market. This place is a Mecca for seafood lovers like me,

:32:43.:32:49.

and awash with the most amazing array of fresh British shellfish.

:32:49.:32:55.

What have you just bought? Cockles. How fresh are these? These are

:32:55.:33:03.

absolutely a couple of hours old. I could have those until the cows

:33:03.:33:09.

come home. And I often do. I am extremely happy to see these little

:33:09.:33:11.

delectable creatures, something you're not likely to see in the

:33:11.:33:17.

sught. It's maceing to see these razor clams here. Do you think as a

:33:17.:33:22.

nation we're scared of cook these things? We're scared of trying

:33:22.:33:27.

something different. It's such a shame. As a result, our European

:33:27.:33:30.

neighbours are snapping up our shellfish, shellfish they consider

:33:30.:33:34.

to be some of the best in the world. Neil, I don't think we have the

:33:34.:33:37.

amazing passion for our shellfish that they do on the continent.

:33:37.:33:42.

Would you say to that? I totally agree with you. I think a lot of

:33:42.:33:46.

people are scared of the product. People think they're going to get

:33:46.:33:49.

sick. You do get a few people asking that. What do you say to

:33:49.:33:54.

them? There is nothing to worry about at all. We need to stop being

:33:54.:33:58.

afraid and embrace this fantastic British product. If there is anyone

:33:58.:34:04.

who can help kick start my shellfish revival it's outspoken

:34:04.:34:10.

cockle Queen Carol. Carol sells cooked cockles by the

:34:10.:34:16.

bucket-full and has since the age of four when she helped out on her

:34:16.:34:19.

grandparents' stall. They're eaten traditionally with pepper and

:34:19.:34:23.

vinegar, but she has plenty of other suggestions for trying this

:34:23.:34:27.

local delicacy. It's lucky you haven't given me a job because I

:34:27.:34:31.

would constantly be at the produce. I wouldn't be able to stop eating

:34:31.:34:35.

all day long, but for those who don't like cockles, how would you

:34:35.:34:42.

tempt them in? If you put a bit of bacon or breadcrumbs in the frying

:34:42.:34:48.

pan and put cockles in, you can enjoy them. It's a good breakfast.

:34:48.:34:53.

And Carol's promised to cook me one. We put the onion in the pan, the

:34:53.:34:58.

bacon in with it, together. I come here for breakfast and end up

:34:58.:35:02.

cooking my own. That's right. We pour some cockles in there now. You

:35:02.:35:06.

said you wanted the taste the cockles. We'll have a nice few

:35:06.:35:12.

cockles in there, right? Well, it's smelling glorious. No Welsh

:35:12.:35:16.

breakfast is complete without lava bread which is in fact seaweed.

:35:16.:35:21.

This is the breakfast of champions - the amount of irons and minerals

:35:21.:35:24.

in here, I am going to be charging around for the rest of the day.

:35:24.:35:28.

There we are. Wow! Well, I think because we have been talking about

:35:28.:35:36.

cockles, cockles first. Oh! The cockles are so meaty, they almost

:35:36.:35:43.

don't need the bacon at all. That is very, very delicious. It's an

:35:43.:35:48.

inspired way to get people eating more shellfish so the next time you

:35:48.:35:52.

come across cockles or mussels, give them a go. They might look

:35:52.:35:57.

scary, but trust me, underneath their hard exterior is the most

:35:57.:36:02.

delicious, nutritious, tasty meat. And if it's the fear of cook them

:36:02.:36:06.

that's putting you off, you'll have no excuse once you see how easy

:36:06.:36:11.

they are to prepare, starting with mussels which have been harvested

:36:11.:36:15.

in Wales since the 11th century. I think living by the sea, Carol and

:36:15.:36:18.

everyone in Swansea really enjoy their shellfish, but I have to

:36:18.:36:22.

convince the rest of you - anyone else who isn't quite sure about how

:36:22.:36:28.

they feel, so my first recipe is going to be stuffed mussels.

:36:28.:36:35.

Here I have some lovely, juicy, fat, sweet mussels. The first thing you

:36:36.:36:40.

need to do is debeard them. The beard is this bit that sticks out

:36:40.:36:44.

the side. You want to remove that. Here it is. Hold the beard, and

:36:44.:36:50.

pull it forward until it comes away. Poor mussel. I know if I had a

:36:50.:36:52.

beard, I wouldn't want anyone tugging on it, but this is what you

:36:52.:36:57.

have to do. The other thing I am looking for is mussels that are

:36:57.:37:01.

open. You should tap them. They should close up tight. If when

:37:01.:37:04.

they're open they don't close while they're being tal tapped, those

:37:04.:37:08.

should be avoided and disposed of. These are all good and tight. They

:37:08.:37:14.

don't want anyone breaking into their home. So we can set about

:37:14.:37:19.

steaming them open. Literally a couple of thimble-fuls of water.

:37:19.:37:23.

Once they're all in, put a lid on. Using a lid is very, very important.

:37:23.:37:29.

It keeps the steam in. It kills the mussels quickly. They'll all open

:37:29.:37:34.

at the same time. This is what tells you your mussels areing

:37:34.:37:38.

couped. If they don't open, don't eat them. It's as simple as that.

:37:38.:37:43.

They only take three to four minutes. They're beginning to open

:37:43.:37:48.

already. We want them slightly undercooked because we're going to

:37:48.:37:51.

stuff them and cook them again later - about a minute will do it.

:37:51.:37:55.

That's what you want. It's hardly cooked at all. So strain off all of

:37:55.:38:01.

those lovely juices and keep them for another dish. Remove the empty

:38:01.:38:05.

half at the mussel shell. Look at that fat one. It's very hard to

:38:05.:38:09.

resist the temptation to eat it, but that is great recipe when

:38:09.:38:16.

you've got lots of people who are kind of having drinks or you want a

:38:16.:38:21.

good pre-dinner snack for a few people. It's amazing to make and

:38:21.:38:26.

looks pretty dramatic once it's done. Stage two is my incredible

:38:26.:38:31.

stuffing mix, so grab yourself a bowl, throw in a hearty handful of

:38:31.:38:37.

breadcrumbs... Take a cloth - sounds like a magic trick -

:38:37.:38:42.

And bash the living daylights out of those walnuts.

:38:42.:38:47.

Take that, walnuts! Then toss them in with some mashed-up garlic, a

:38:47.:38:54.

scratch of lemon zest. Lemons and garlic! A handful of freshly grated

:38:54.:38:58.

Parmesan cheese and a good bombardment of black pepper. Don't

:38:58.:39:04.

be shy when you think you have twisted it enough. Keep on twisting

:39:04.:39:11.

- Italian waiter on overdrive. a slug of vermouth. Love the stuff

:39:11.:39:18.

- one for chefy - but maybe not today! Right. Parsley - a lot of

:39:18.:39:25.

parsley. Good English curly parsley, please. I love flat-leaf parsley,

:39:25.:39:32.

but I think it gets a little bit too much press. We have this

:39:32.:39:37.

wonderful curly parsley here. And we need tarragon, a brilliant

:39:37.:39:44.

partner with shellfish. I can see all the little mussels jiggling

:39:44.:39:48.

around - jiggling with excitement at what's about to happen to them.

:39:48.:39:54.

Once they're chopped, throw them with a hardy knob of butter. Do you

:39:54.:39:59.

know what? No mucking around. I am getting involved. Just kind of

:39:59.:40:04.

really mush the butter through all the ingredients, and that's it.

:40:04.:40:09.

Simply stuff each mussel with this wonderful mixture. OK. There you go,

:40:09.:40:14.

my little friend. Making sure you cover all the meat so it doesn't

:40:14.:40:21.

dry out in the oven, then pop them all on a baking tray and under a

:40:21.:40:25.

hot grill. Adios, mussels. And two to three minutes later, they'll be

:40:25.:40:32.

gorgeous and bubbly. Right. They're nicely browned on

:40:32.:40:39.

top - yum yum. I promise you, when you carry these around a room or

:40:39.:40:46.

put them on a table, they just do not last long. And there they are -

:40:46.:40:48.

really, really delicious, really, really simple. I really want to get

:40:48.:40:57.

into these. Well, it looks good. I promise you - it tastes absolutely

:40:57.:41:00.

fantastic. There is that meatyness of the mussel and the garlic and

:41:01.:41:10.

herbs - I could easily do a whole plate on my own.

:41:10.:41:15.

I want you to fall back in love with British shellfish,

:41:15.:41:19.

particularly mussels, one of my favourite seafoods, farmed in their

:41:19.:41:23.

millions off the coast of north- west Wales. I really remember being

:41:23.:41:29.

five or six and a huge mountain of mussels being put in front of me in

:41:29.:41:32.

France, a mountain so big I couldn't see anyone elsesiveing

:41:32.:41:39.

around the table. I was obsessed with them, really, and ruined all

:41:39.:41:43.

future holidays by demanding mussels so much. "You can't have

:41:43.:41:49.

another bowl of mussels!" "I want mussels!" I appear to be in

:41:49.:41:54.

the minority when it comes to this crustacean because only 10-20% of

:41:54.:41:58.

them stay in this country. We certainly catch enough of the stuff

:41:58.:42:04.

on boats like this. Last year alone, we produced a whopping 30,000

:42:04.:42:08.

tonnes of British mussels. A third of them are farmed here in the

:42:08.:42:15.

fast-flowing waters of the Menai Strait, home to the UK's largest

:42:15.:42:22.

mussel fishery, which sells 95% of its cash to mainland Europe.

:42:22.:42:27.

seems odd I could go to calai, sit down to a big bowl of mussels, and

:42:27.:42:31.

there's good chance you might have produced those. For sure. The

:42:31.:42:34.

mussels we produce are sold somewhere. If they're not sold in

:42:34.:42:40.

the UK - I think some go to the UK, but the vast majority are sold in

:42:40.:42:45.

Holland, perhaps, sometimes Spain. Unfortunately, they're sold as

:42:46.:42:49.

Dutch or French or Belgian mussels. It's all because we don't eat the

:42:49.:42:54.

stuff. It's enough to make a mussel lover like me rather puzzled,

:42:54.:42:59.

especially when you see how much we produce. Wow. That is a lot more

:42:59.:43:03.

shellfish than I could eat in one sitting. We're farming them here,

:43:03.:43:08.

so the mussels are on the seabed at quite high densities. I have never

:43:08.:43:18.
:43:18.:43:22.

seen so many mussels in one go. you catch a whiff? Yeah. These

:43:22.:43:28.

mussels are farmed sustainablely in a small, concentrated area with

:43:28.:43:32.

minimal human intervention, and there is plenty more where that

:43:32.:43:38.

came from. That is one mountain of mussels. Yes, this replicates what

:43:38.:43:46.

you see on the seabed. We have lots of mussels and crabs. These are 18

:43:46.:43:51.

months old. It's perfect for harvesting. Is this the water

:43:51.:43:59.

processing? Yes. It will clean off the silty, muddy sediment. Once the

:43:59.:44:04.

mussels have been washed, they're then lifted on to convary belts

:44:04.:44:08.

where unwanted hitchhikers are pulled off, then they're sorted

:44:08.:44:15.

into bags with freshly pumped sea water, ready to be sent to more

:44:15.:44:18.

appreciative mouths elsewhere in Europe. How much is one of these

:44:18.:44:25.

bags worth? 12,000 euros. If you go to a restaurant in the UK, you'll

:44:25.:44:31.

probably buy a kilo of mussels for ten or 15 pounds. If you go to

:44:31.:44:35.

Belgium, it's 20-25 euros. People don't care about the price. They

:44:35.:44:39.

just want to eat the food because it's good. It's bonkers. They're

:44:39.:44:42.

cheaper here, so even more reason to keep them here. They're

:44:42.:44:49.

incredibly good for us, packed with vitamins, minerals and essential

:44:49.:44:52.

omega three. Not only are they delicious,

:44:52.:44:56.

they're easy to cook and reasonably priced. And healthy. And healthy -

:44:56.:45:06.
:45:06.:45:07.

I am lucky enough to have been given a bag of mussels by James. I

:45:07.:45:10.

am going to tum and into a classic you can enjoy at home. I think we

:45:10.:45:14.

always think of Mill marrying her when we think of mussels. Here is a

:45:14.:45:24.
:45:24.:45:31.

different one -- moules marinieres. These are hearty winter mussels.

:45:31.:45:34.

This is for when you have been walking, the wind has been blowing

:45:34.:45:43.

in your face, your trousers are drying on the radiator. First, I am

:45:43.:45:51.

going to make the sauce. You need plenty of good British butter. Two

:45:51.:46:00.

bay leaves. Throw-ins celery, diced shallots and garlic. To kick slowly

:46:00.:46:10.

so that it does not colour. The sauce should be quite looking. --

:46:10.:46:20.
:46:20.:46:31.

Add some white pepper. And one of my favourite ingredients - pastis.

:46:31.:46:41.
:46:41.:46:47.

That is an aniseed steam bath there. Add 1 heaped spoonful of flour. As

:46:47.:46:53.

you add more liquid, you will start to see it will loosen up. Really

:46:53.:46:58.

beat those lumps out. You do not want a lumpy sauce. When it is

:46:58.:47:07.

smooth, we can cook our mussels in a generous drop of white wine. And

:47:07.:47:13.

then put the lid on. Three to four minutes later, the mussels will be

:47:13.:47:17.

cut. Easy and speedy - what more could you want? I am going to turn

:47:17.:47:27.
:47:27.:47:31.

off the gas. Get a colander. Turn this one on. Strain the mussel

:47:31.:47:36.

liquor. Very important to get the mussels straight back into the pot

:47:36.:47:46.

so that they stay warm. Delicious. I am going to frisk the mussel

:47:46.:47:50.

juice into the white sauce. Then bring it to the boil so it thickens

:47:50.:47:55.

nicely, and adds some luxurious double cream. Just looking at it is

:47:55.:48:05.
:48:05.:48:12.

comforting. The sauce is the right consistency. In the goal. -- in

:48:12.:48:22.
:48:22.:48:30.

they go. A final flourish of Tender and sweet. That is good food

:48:30.:48:40.

for mean weather. I want to get as many people as

:48:40.:48:45.

possible in the country eating shellfish, including cockles, which

:48:45.:48:50.

we Britons tends to turn our noses up at. I am on my way to South

:48:50.:48:58.

Wales to find out where all of our cockles end up. The tide has gone

:48:58.:49:02.

along way out and it is the perfect time to gather cockles. They have a

:49:02.:49:07.

bit of an image problem. They are bound up and down the country on

:49:07.:49:11.

great expanses of beach like this, where they have been gathering in

:49:11.:49:16.

their millions since Roman times. In some places their numbers are

:49:16.:49:21.

dwindling and what we do pick often ends up abroad. What a great place.

:49:21.:49:25.

The best environment to work in in the world.

:49:25.:49:30.

This man has been harvesting cockles here for 40 years and once

:49:30.:49:38.

people to rediscover this neglected little bivalve. It is hand gathered,

:49:38.:49:46.

which is very different. It is an age-old technique that he has

:49:46.:49:51.

promised to show me. I cannot wait to get my feet wet. So this is the

:49:51.:50:01.
:50:01.:50:01.

spot? Here we are. What do I D? want to make a start like that.

:50:01.:50:11.
:50:11.:50:17.

Distress the ground a bit? Yes. Put that in there now. I have done this

:50:17.:50:26.

for about a minute. Doing this all day would be absolutely back-

:50:26.:50:30.

breaking. But the reward is definitely worth the effort. That's

:50:30.:50:35.

it. That is very pleasing. anyone come and take cockles from

:50:35.:50:43.

the beach? Yes. You are allowed eight kilograms a day.

:50:43.:50:47.

The amount varies from beach to beach so check with the local

:50:47.:50:50.

authority first. They will also advise on water quality. There you

:50:51.:50:57.

are, beautiful. The sad fact of the matter is I am unlikely to get to

:50:57.:51:04.

try these. When the sacks are full, what happens to the cockles? They

:51:04.:51:09.

are taken to Spain. So they all disappear to Spain? Yes. Can you

:51:09.:51:15.

believe it? If we are going to help, maybe we need to reinvent the great

:51:16.:51:18.

British cockle so that more of them stay in this country. That is

:51:18.:51:23.

exactly what is happening 15 miles away. If you think that cockles can

:51:23.:51:29.

only be served with vinegar and black pepper, think again. I have

:51:29.:51:34.

come to meet a man who is rewriting the cockle cookbook. He is a local

:51:34.:51:41.

chef using local cockles in new and done -- and inventive ways. I have

:51:41.:51:44.

just been picking cockles and I wanted to come and talk to you

:51:45.:51:49.

about them. They are very popular around here. What would you say to

:51:49.:51:57.

people who do not live around the coast and Arabic squeamish? You can

:51:57.:52:02.

use them in fish cakes, Welsh rarebit. You can even turn them

:52:02.:52:07.

into cockle popcorn. You quote them in flour, salt and pepper, give

:52:07.:52:17.
:52:17.:52:22.

them a shake. -- you can turn them into cockle popcorn. Essentially,

:52:23.:52:28.

they are ready when you hear the pop. Take them out. They are

:52:28.:52:38.
:52:38.:52:39.

completely coated. Look at them. can't wait. Try one of them. Series

:52:39.:52:47.

the, that is lovely. That is so easy to like. Those are absolutely

:52:47.:52:56.

delicious. Cockle popcorn. If you need more convincing, how

:52:56.:53:04.

about a hearty plate of surf and turf? And Wales is somewhere that I

:53:04.:53:09.

really love and I like the idea of Welsh lamb grazing in the fields

:53:09.:53:14.

next to the beach where the cock a la landed. This is Welsh lamb with

:53:14.:53:20.

cockles. Often, it is advised to put cockles

:53:20.:53:24.

in fresh water and they spit out the grit and stuff. I am not sure

:53:24.:53:28.

about that. If they are left to in fresh water for too long it will

:53:28.:53:33.

kill them. I would advise shaking them under water in a colander.

:53:33.:53:42.

Give them a good shake. It will also watch the sand off of them.

:53:42.:53:46.

When they are clean, put them into a pan with some simmering cider. I

:53:46.:53:56.
:53:56.:53:59.

will put a lid on so that the steamy easily. -- they steam easily.

:54:00.:54:04.

Strain off the liquid. The important thing is to keep as much

:54:04.:54:13.

liquor as possible. It will be the basis of the sauce. I want those to

:54:13.:54:23.
:54:23.:54:25.

cool. No the meaty part of his dish. This is fairly cheap and it is one

:54:25.:54:30.

of my favourite pieces of lamb. I am going to trim it, season with

:54:30.:54:40.
:54:40.:54:54.

chopped thyme, salt and pepper, and Brian a tenner hot pan. -- brown it.

:54:54.:55:04.

Now I am going to add a bay leaf. Then some cider vinegar. And

:55:04.:55:09.

returned a lamb to the pan. Then we have the delicious cockle and cider

:55:09.:55:16.

juice. And that is it. Just bring it up to a simmer, put on the lid

:55:16.:55:23.

and put it in a medium-hot oven for 45 minutes to an hour. These are

:55:23.:55:32.

fat, these cockles. Look at that. It looks like a toucan's head. So

:55:32.:55:38.

delicious! They are like little sweets in this perfect packaging.

:55:38.:55:44.

They will complement this week Welsh lamb perfectly. It needs the

:55:44.:55:49.

lid removed for the last 20 minutes of cooking in order to reduce the

:55:49.:55:56.

sauce. All I need to do is to take out the lamb, up popped in the

:55:56.:56:04.

cockles, leaving some in the shell for show. Then returned the lead

:56:04.:56:14.
:56:14.:56:18.

and carve the meat. -- return In will be even more delicious

:56:18.:56:26.

topped with some cockles insider. The sauce smells so wonderful.

:56:26.:56:35.

Finish off with parsley and celery leaves. I would say that is a

:56:35.:56:42.

joyous-looking plate of Welsh lamb with cockles.

:56:42.:56:46.

Meeting the people behind our fantastic British shellfish has

:56:46.:56:49.

made me even more determined to revive this great British

:56:49.:56:54.

ingredient. What has come out of this is that eating shellfish is

:56:54.:56:59.

fun. We have lots of this stuff and it is incredibly easy to cook and

:56:59.:57:09.
:57:09.:57:13.

enjoy. We mustn't take it all Sue Seriously -- all too seriously. One

:57:13.:57:18.

shellfish ban has taken to the road with some -- taken to the road with

:57:18.:57:26.

highly inventive selling techniques. He has pictures of great British

:57:26.:57:30.

physiques to help sell it. It is a fast food seafood option that is

:57:30.:57:35.

not fish and chips. They have also come up with another way to entice

:57:35.:57:45.
:57:45.:57:49.

customers. OK, down on all fours. Most of them will lose. We are

:57:49.:57:53.

trying to create something a bit more exciting. And it is hitting

:57:53.:57:57.

the right spot. I bought the mussels because they looked

:57:57.:58:07.
:58:07.:58:09.

interesting and they're very nice, fresh and tasty. They guy seemed

:58:09.:58:16.

fun so why thought, why not? Come on, Fox, talking to shellfish.

:58:16.:58:20.

British selfish is some of the finest on offer so, the next time

:58:20.:58:26.

you want to try something new, going by a sum. You do not have to

:58:26.:58:30.

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