Oats and Beans Great British Food Revival


Oats and Beans

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-This is the Great British Food Revival.

-We're campaigning.

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To save some of our truly unique...

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..totally delicious...

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-..succulent...

-Formidable.

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Home-grown produce.

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Ooh! It's cold!

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Many are teetering on the brink of survival.

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We need you to help us.

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To resurrect these classic heritage ingredients.

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I'm loving it. I could stay out here all day.

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Join us now before it's too late.

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Can you give us a whoop?

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CHEERING

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Some things are really worth fighting for.

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Ah, delicious.

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I'm on the revival trail for a small but mighty grain.

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They're damn tasty, filling

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and celebrated as a super food around the world.

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It's popular with everyone, from bears to shot-putting men in kilts.

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It's one of our heritage crops

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and we should be exploiting it to the max.

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But what I don't understand is, if it's such a wonder stuff,

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then why don't we do more wonderful things with it?

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Us Brits seem to be stuck in a rut,

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using it just one way.

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It could easily fall off our recipe radar forever.

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I'm Allegra McEvedy and I want you to go out and get your oats.

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Breakfast will never be the same again

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as I discover my perfect porridge.

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This is delicious. This is totally yummy.

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I'll be revealing some frankly eye-boggling vintage oat recipes.

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You might add something like,

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-a puffin or something. In the outer islands...

-Of course!

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-I always put a puffin in my food.

-Why didn't you think of that?

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In the revival kitchen, I'll show there's more to oats than just porridge.

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That really blows my bagpipes!

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Over the past few years, as Britain has become more health-conscious,

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unprocessed grains have come back on the menu with a vengeance.

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Everybody's doing porridge,

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from McDonald's to Michelin-starred restaurants.

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In the past, oats were a staple product

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for feeding both animals and humans.

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But over the last 100 years,

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Britain has lost a shocking 91% of its oat fields.

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Yep, that's right, 91%.

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So this newfound fondness for porridge can only be a good thing.

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I love this cereal grain

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but I know there's a lot more to it than just porridge

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and that's why I'm on the revival crusade.

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So for some inspiration, I've come to Scotland. Where else?

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It's breakfast time in Edinburgh

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and I'm here to meet a couple of entrepreneurial oat fans

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'who are riding the crest of the porridge wave.'

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-I'm Bob.

-I'm Tony. Nice to meet you.

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'Tony Stone and Bob Arnott

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'have created one of the world's first porridge bars.'

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How long have you been in business?

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Er, we started in 2005. That's when we got our first porridge bar

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so about six, seven years ago.

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It's an enormous menu.

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I've only had porridge a couple of different ways. Look at that,

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Double wood whisky and honey. How many of those do you sell?

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On a cold morning, the whisky and honey,

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we always use Balvenie Double Wood whisky

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so it has a nice peaty flavour to it.

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-A bit of honey over it just works a treat.

-That sounds delicious.

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'So we know porridge is popular, but this is the big question -

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'do these hungry breakfasters know what else oats are good for?'

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Do you do anything else with your oats, other than make porridge?

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-No.

-No. You see, this is where we're at.

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Porridge is having a big renaissance

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but people leave oats on the shelf when it comes to other cooking.

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-I do the oatcake thing.

-You do?

-Stilton and stuff.

-That counts.

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I love porridge.

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And I'd go and get it above anything else, you know.

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Right. But then if you love it so much,

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-why don't you do more with your oats at home?

-Yes, yes.

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I'm not giving you a hard time, am I? A little bit.

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And what do you do with your oats?

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-That's no...

-LAUGHTER

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I don't sow them.

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I have it every morning with some wheatgerm

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and some flax, ground flax.

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Wow, that really is good for you.

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If I was to give you a bag of oats,

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what could you do with it beyond porridge?

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-Flapjacks.

-Yes, flapjacks.

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Flapjacks. Anything else?

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Um...crumble?

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Crumble, good. Yes, yes.

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'Porridge, oatcakes, flapjacks. It's all sounding so familiar.

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'Tony and Bob may be pushing the porridge boundaries,

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'but there doesn't seem to be much creativity out there

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'when it comes to the little oat.'

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Have a good one.

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'For centuries, oats grew in the unforgiving Scottish climate

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'and rugged landscape where it was the only grain

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'that could prosper against the odds.

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'That tough little oat was a saviour for many.

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'To learn about Scotland's oat ancestry,

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'I'm going to Alford Heritage Centre to meet food writer Sue Lawrence

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'who knows just how critical oats were to the Scottish diet.'

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-This place is amazing.

-Isn't it?

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'Almost every kitchen had a stash of oats kept in a bin called a gurnell

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'to protect the precious grains through the long winter months.'

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It would've been zinc lined to prevent the mice getting in.

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'In the past, those hard working Scots got creative with their oats

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'and used them in as many ways as possible.'

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-Brose. Have you heard of that?

-I have heard of it, yes.

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-So brose is basically uncooked porridge.

-Mmm!

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I know! It sounds yummy, doesn't it?

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And it would've been made in a big bowl like this.

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-Always a wooden bowl.

-Right.

-Quite solid and quite big,

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because the amount of oatmeal you put in was quite a lot.

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A good, sort of two or three tablespoons. This is fine oatmeal.

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Could you put just a bit of salt in, please? I'll get some boiling water.

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-This is shaping up.

-And all you need to do...

-Yes.

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..is literally, if you just sort of stir please while I add it

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and this is literally making a brose.

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It's that simple.

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'This was an earlier prototype of porridge,

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'only stodgier and more filling.

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'It was a staple dish eaten in various guises throughout the day.'

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And then, all you would put in there is a little dot of butter

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-and again, just stir that in.

-Right.

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Depending on which region in Scotland you're making this,

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you might add something like a puffin, in the outer islands...

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Yes, of course! I always put a puffin in my food.

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They did because that's what they happened to be cooking.

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-Puffins?

-So they would use the stock from the puffin,

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or some other sort of sea bird,

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a fulmar or a guillemot or something like that,

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and make a brose with that.

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-Are you sure you're not making this up?

-Definitely not.

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Is that the kind of texture you're after?

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-Absolutely perfect.

-A kind of wallpaper paste? Like that?

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-Yes.

-OK, all right. Let's go.

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Go for it, absolutely. And that is a lot.

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You can have an awful lot more oatmeal than you can with porridge.

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-OK?

-It's surprisingly nice.

-It's OK, isn't it?

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-I think you need the butter.

-And the salt.

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-What else have we got?

-Right.

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Beautiful oatcakes here.

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In the olden days people would wander around,

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whether they were farmers or soldiers or whatever,

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with a little pack of oatmeal

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and they would just, you know, from a stream, get some water,

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mix it up and then just maybe even on a stone, you know, a river stone,

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just heat it up with a little fire and make their own oatcakes.

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Pinhead oatmeal is also fantastic in haggis.

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-Ah, now that I do like.

-You do, don't you.

-We're onto a winner there.

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It's basically a sausage

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and so like any other sausage, you have to have a sort of filler.

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So, it will be rusk, or breadcrumbs if it was a normal sausage

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but of course what's grown locally here,

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what does everybody have in their cupboards is oatmeal

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and so the oatmeal was used.

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-We are at some point going to have to talk about porridge.

-Yes, yes.

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-I love it. Have it every morning.

-Do you?

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Yes, and there is this classic thing.

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You've heard about the drawer?

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I have. I've got a friend of mine

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who's been talking to me for years about a porridge drawer

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and it's been the stuff of fantasies but I've never actually seen one,

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-or sort of visualised it.

-Yes.

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-This is the porridge in the drawer.

-Right. OK.

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So they would've made a big batch and piled it into a drawer

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and it would've been kept and either you have it,

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take it away, a slab at lunchtime, or in the evening.

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It's a bit like polenta.

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You would take a slab off and then either fry it or grill it.

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Traditionally, it would've been more like a dresser

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and you would have a special drawer

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-that you would just use for the porridge.

-Right OK.

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-We're using this so.

-Right, OK.

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And then you would literally cut off...

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a slab and depending on how firm it was, you'd either have to,

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you know, sort of fry it, or just eat it as it is.

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You're about to feed me cold porridge, aren't you?

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Um, would you actually like a bit?

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I feel like it's part of my job.

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-Oh my God, that's actually freezing.

-Porridge from the drawer.

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I'm sure it should at least be ambient.

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SHE LAUGHS Hot, it's delicious though.

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But that's just a bit, it's quite salty,

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I quite like a lot of salt in it and I use the pinhead oatmeal for that.

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Mmm. That's testing my oat love.

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-Yes, the brose is better, isn't it?

-Yep.

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Thanks for that. Next!

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-Fantastic.

-It's been brilliant

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and I'm going to go and try that puffin brose.

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Absolutely. I'm sure you'll get a puffin anywhere.

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-Down the high street.

-Down the road.

-Thank you very much.

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OK, thank you.

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'It's a credit to this little grain

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'that it helped to sustain a nation.

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'But eating it shouldn't be a gruelling experience.

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'So I'm going into the revival kitchen to show you

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'there's a super side to a porridge free breakfast

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'with my oat and pecan granola.'

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These are lovely rolled oats.

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They don't grow on the plant like this.

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They are partially steamed, so they swell up a bit

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and then they are steam rollered,

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hence rolled oats. Now this is a super thing granola.

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We need to make it full of super things.

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These are golden linseeds.

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They're very good for your, um, digestion, if you know what I mean

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and this is oat bran.

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Now, oats are great, oat bran is great, linseeds are great,

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they're not that delicious as is, to be totally honest.

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They need a bit of help.

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We'll go with naturally occuring sugar in the form of maple syrup,

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which is absolutely delicious. Stir that through.

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Because a granola is essentially a cooked muesli, more or less.

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So like most of the nation,

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I was brought up on porridge for breakfast.

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But I'm not quite sure about how healthy it was,

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because we used to make a hole in the middle into which our mum

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would pour double cream or sometimes top of the milk.

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(Oh, top of the milk.)

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And sprinkle on lots and lots and lots of that dark soft sugar.

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So, I think any health properties were seriously counteracted.

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Pop this in the oven.

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We're just going to toast them for about 15 minutes

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and now it's a small chopathon.

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'To up the super food content, I'm adding pecans

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'and a personal favourite of mine, almonds.'

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They're very, very good for you. The world's strongest man

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says the reason why he can pull a lorry by his hair,

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because we all like to do that,

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is because he eats a handful of almonds every day.

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And this is supposed to be the breakfast

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that starts your day like a champion.

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So I can smell that really nice, warm, syrupy,

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maple-y smell from the oven, so I'm going to check my oats.

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They're looking pretty ready to me.

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Dates. Nice sticky dates.

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'Soft dates make a lovely contrast with the crunchy nuts.'

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Now there's a reason why oats are associated

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with being the best breakfast in the world.

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Because they are in fact a massive 20% protein.

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We've also got unsaturated fats, starch and fibre.

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'When it's cooled to room temperature, mix it all together.'

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Why make porridge when you can make granola?

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Porridge you have to make every day, this you can make once a fortnight,

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once a month and your work's done.

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'Then sprinkle in the pumpkin and hemp seeds.'

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Obviously nutritional value. Lots of crunch too. A little bit of flavour.

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Cinnamon. It gives it a nice little layer of spice in there as well.

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With something like this, you can use whatever nuts you have,

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whatever seeds you have. Just keep it as a nice oaty base.

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The important thing is to get your oat fix every day.

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It's good, but it's quite a bowl of brown,

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so we're going to give it some freshness.

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Some fruit and some yoghurt. Some melon and berries.

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A bit of yoghurt.

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Just a little bit of milk.

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So, this is how breakfast looks Chez McEvedy of a morning.

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Maple, pecan and super things granola.

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Time to dig in.

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Mmm.

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I don't just like my oats, I need my oats

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and that is fantastic way of getting them first thing in the morning.

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'To really get my revival going,

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'I need to go beyond the rolled oats I know and love.

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'So I'm going to meet an oat expert at Montgarrie Mill near Alford.'

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'There's been a mill on this site for 700 years,

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'but they're not living in the past.

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'It's the only mill in the country

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'selling four different grades of oatmeal

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'and their products go to delis, health stores

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'and supermarkets across Scotland.'

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Gwen!

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'Gwen Williamson has been miller here for 12 years

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'and is going to guide me from raw grain to finished product.'

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Wow! Gwen!

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This is the kiln.

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I have never seen anything like that before. That is so cool!

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-What's happening in here?

-This is the...

-Can I touch?

-Yes.

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It's quite hot at the bottom.

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We're drying the oats here.

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-Oh, that feels so nice.

-They'll stay in here.

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-There's about two tonnes on the floor.

-Right.

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And then they'll stay in here for about three and a half hours.

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-I'll just show you the fire that...

-I can smell it already.

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'The floor is still heated by a hand stoked fire.'

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Oh, my God. Look at that, that's beautiful.

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'The heat reduces the oats' water content to just 4%,

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'making it easier to grind.'

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When you're turning...

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'All the oats are still turned by hand to ensure an even drying time.

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'Pretty impressive, considering they get through 250 tonnes a year.'

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OK? It's very easy.

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ALLEGRA STRAINS

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Is that good pushing?

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SHE LAUGHS Very good.

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I'm loving this.

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'And in keeping with today's eco-ethos,

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'they're using a very renewable energy source.'

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-Wow.

-The water will come down here and will start turning the wheel.

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Yes, spin the wheel.

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The wheel will spin the milly things and we will mill the oats.

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Liking this, liking this.

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'Despite my obvious lack of milling knowledge,

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'Gwen still allows me to start up the water wheel.'

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-Now, just let it go. That's fine.

-What do you mean? Argh!

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I think I did it.

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-Here it comes.

-Ah, yes, here it comes.

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Woo-hoo!

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Oh, that's great!

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'Inside, little has changed in the past 200 years,

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'as the water wheel powers the whole process.'

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Wow.

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-What's going on, Gwen?

-This is the first stone.

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-This is the one that'll crack the husk.

-Right.

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And then it goes upstairs to a set of fans.

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-A set of..?

-Fans that will blow the husk off.

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'By making adjustments to the grinding stones,

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'different grades of oats are produced.

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'This fine flour is so different to rolled oats

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'and Gwen has another three sorts of finished oats to show me.'

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Sorry, but I couldn't quite hear you in there for some strange reason.

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-It is a bit noisy.

-Would you explain to me again

0:16:460:16:48

-about the different kind of oat products that you make here.

-Yes.

0:16:480:16:52

This is the four grades that we make. There's fine,

0:16:520:16:55

medium, rough and pinhead at the end.

0:16:550:16:59

-Right.

-This is a fine oatmeal.

0:16:590:17:01

People use this for making oat cakes and things like that.

0:17:010:17:04

-Yes.

-The medium is usually porridge

0:17:040:17:07

and the rough, again, you can make porridge with.

0:17:070:17:10

We have people who make oatcakes with that as well.

0:17:100:17:13

And then there's the pinhead at the end,

0:17:130:17:15

-which I personally put on top of my macaroni and cheese.

-Oh, nice.

0:17:150:17:19

-People put it in ice cream.

-Wow.

-All sorts of different stuff.

0:17:190:17:22

Most of those big boxes that we see in supermarkets,

0:17:240:17:27

the brands of porridge oats that we're familiar with

0:17:270:17:29

are rolled oats, aren't they?

0:17:290:17:31

-Yes.

-Where does that process differentiate from what you do here?

0:17:310:17:35

Our oatmeal has been toasted right down,

0:17:350:17:37

-so you know it's very nut like.

-Right.

0:17:370:17:40

As you work your way towards the bigger pieces,

0:17:400:17:43

-you end up with something...

-Very nutty.

0:17:430:17:45

-It's much nuttier, isn't it?

-This is more creamy.

0:17:450:17:48

As you go down the scale, it gets creamier and creamier.

0:17:480:17:51

-But that is quite nutty.

-It's definitely nutty. It's delicious.

0:17:510:17:55

-It's different to any other oat I've ever tasted, for sure.

-Yes.

0:17:550:17:59

-It is quite unique, actually.

-I've been buying the wrong kind.

0:17:590:18:01

Oh well, you know now.

0:18:010:18:03

'So move beyond your easy microwave porridge pouch.

0:18:040:18:08

'Challenge yourself with all the oats on offer.

0:18:080:18:10

'Gwen's certainly inspired me.'

0:18:100:18:13

That mill, hundreds of years old,

0:18:130:18:15

driven by water, stones turning, cutting oats, I was just...

0:18:150:18:20

Something special happened to me in there.

0:18:200:18:22

I came out of there, kind of electrified. Oatified.

0:18:220:18:26

Ready to go and wanting to cook.

0:18:260:18:29

'So that's where I'm headed to give my spin on a classic oat dish

0:18:290:18:32

'that brings it together with another super food, oily fish.'

0:18:320:18:38

Herring is part of that group of oily fish, like mackerel, sardines,

0:18:430:18:47

pilchards that, of course, we know now to be very good for us.

0:18:470:18:51

But it's also incredibly plentiful and cheap.

0:18:510:18:54

'Firstly, cut out the central line of bones.'

0:18:560:18:59

My next door neighbour who has been cooking this dish all her life

0:18:590:19:03

and was shown it by her mother who was shown it by her mother -

0:19:030:19:06

it's that kind of a dish - always served it with mustard sauce.

0:19:060:19:09

But I'm going to put the mustard into the fish.

0:19:090:19:13

This is medium oatmeal.

0:19:130:19:17

What we're doing here is we're going to coat our herring in oats.

0:19:170:19:21

Going to be very exciting.

0:19:210:19:22

So, English mustard.

0:19:220:19:24

English, it's got to be English mustard. Don't tell the Scots.

0:19:240:19:28

British mustard, let's call it British mustard, on there.

0:19:280:19:32

Right, so then, you just want to coat it on both sides.

0:19:330:19:36

Make sure it's pretty covered.

0:19:360:19:38

'I've picked the medium grain of oats,

0:19:380:19:41

'because they're big enough to give an exciting amount of crunch.'

0:19:410:19:46

Oh, herring in oats, I love it.

0:19:460:19:50

It really is so special.

0:19:500:19:52

It's so incredibly quick. It's so cheap.

0:19:520:19:55

Why, why, why would you not do this?

0:19:550:19:57

So flesh side down.

0:20:010:20:02

These are, like, two minutes a side. Something like that.

0:20:020:20:06

It smells like a healthier version of fish and chips.

0:20:060:20:10

I'll just turn that off because they're done.

0:20:100:20:12

'To go with the fish I'm doing a warm potato salad

0:20:120:20:15

'with kale and cucumber.

0:20:150:20:17

'But they're also great with just a squeeze of lemon.'

0:20:170:20:20

We're lifting the classic Scottish dish of herring and oats

0:20:210:20:27

and bringing it forward from the Middle Ages into something

0:20:270:20:31

that you could happily see on any gastropub menu.

0:20:310:20:36

Or even just make it at home. There we go. Herring and oats.

0:20:380:20:42

We all know oats are referred to as a superfood

0:20:520:20:55

and they certainly feel like it to me

0:20:550:20:57

but I'd like to find out exactly how super they really are.

0:20:570:21:01

So I'm going to the University of Aberdeen

0:21:010:21:03

where they're looking into the future of this cereal and its health credentials.

0:21:030:21:08

-I'm Allegra.

-Hi there, nice to meet you. Welcome to the Rowett.

0:21:080:21:11

'Dr Alex Johnstone is an expert in obesity and diabetes

0:21:110:21:14

'and her research is helping us look at the oat in a whole new light.'

0:21:140:21:18

What's different about the way that oats are digested?

0:21:180:21:22

So when the oats are consumed they go into the stomach,

0:21:220:21:26

what happens is the oats will begin to swell and make you feel full.

0:21:260:21:30

'Alex shows me how oats react in our stomach compared to wheat bran

0:21:320:21:36

'which is used in many other breakfast cereals.'

0:21:360:21:38

'Within a few minutes the oats on the left are nearly twice

0:21:410:21:44

'the volume of the bran.'

0:21:440:21:45

You can see here that the oats have very much swelled

0:21:460:21:50

and absorbed the water and become almost a porridge-like structure.

0:21:500:21:55

Whereas the wheat bran has just sunk to the bottom.

0:21:550:21:58

'This helps a porridge eater stay fuller longer.

0:21:580:22:01

'But these grains do share one factor - lots of good fibre.'

0:22:010:22:05

That impacts very much on protection against colon cancer

0:22:080:22:12

in terms of increasing faecal weight and reducing transit time.

0:22:120:22:18

Wow. "Faecal weight and transit time"!

0:22:180:22:22

How heavy is your poo and how fast is it?

0:22:220:22:25

Yes, that's right. These are both important for gut health.

0:22:250:22:28

Delicious, great(!)

0:22:280:22:30

But the real hidden gem in oats are little things called

0:22:310:22:34

beta-glucans which are proven to lower cholesterol.

0:22:340:22:38

Scientists are also investigating their possible effects

0:22:380:22:41

on reducing blood pressure, improving immune functions

0:22:410:22:44

and even fighting cancer and diabetes.

0:22:440:22:48

Are beta-glucans a characteristic of lots of cereals?

0:22:480:22:52

No. Beta-glucans are particularly a rich source in oats

0:22:520:22:57

so that's what makes oats special.

0:22:570:23:00

'They may also be able to help with one of our nation's biggest health worries.'

0:23:000:23:04

So obviously there's a growing obesity problem in the west.

0:23:060:23:09

Do you think oats has got a place in fighting that?

0:23:090:23:13

Oh, definitely. I mean, oats are really good

0:23:130:23:16

at creating a filling component within the stomach

0:23:160:23:19

so hopefully you snack less throughout the day.

0:23:190:23:22

Is there anything on here that we should be particularly looking for? Some of them better than others?

0:23:220:23:26

Well, oats are quite bland to eat and that's why adding sugar

0:23:260:23:30

and salt to them makes them more palatable.

0:23:300:23:34

You just need to keep an eye on how that's incorporated

0:23:340:23:37

into a healthy diet.

0:23:370:23:38

Any of these is a good thing,

0:23:380:23:40

-but just watch out for added salt and sugar?

-Yes.

0:23:400:23:43

Good. Wonderfood. Not a superfood, a wonderfood!

0:23:430:23:46

So, it's official - oats are really good for you.

0:23:490:23:52

But I want to see a world beyond porridge,

0:23:520:23:55

beyond manufactured biscuits and bars.

0:23:550:23:57

I want to see them back in the home kitchen as an ingredient.

0:23:570:24:02

And while the oat has an important place as a healthy daily staple,

0:24:020:24:05

they have a fun side too.

0:24:050:24:07

Oats, they are mind-bogglingly versatile.

0:24:110:24:15

In this recipe, I'm going to pair them with chocolate

0:24:150:24:19

to make my version of a Scottish classic - a Black Forest cranachan.

0:24:190:24:22

So cranachan is a traditional Scottish dessert pudding

0:24:280:24:34

made out of - you guessed it - oats.

0:24:340:24:38

Usually this dish is made with cream, whisky,

0:24:380:24:41

honey and raspberries, but I'm trying something a bit different.

0:24:410:24:45

When I was up with Sue Lawrence,

0:24:460:24:48

who knows a thing or two about Scottish food,

0:24:480:24:50

she told me there's a very good thing you could do,

0:24:500:24:53

putting some chocolate into your cranachan

0:24:530:24:55

and I've taken that thought

0:24:550:24:57

and run with it to come up with this retro Black Forest cranachan.

0:24:570:25:03

Scotland meets Bavaria.

0:25:030:25:06

First I'm going to macerate the stoned cherries

0:25:060:25:08

by soaking them in alcohol. Much as I do love a wee dram,

0:25:080:25:14

I'm going to be using my primary booze in this dish, amaretto.

0:25:140:25:18

This almondy liqueur goes really well with the cherries.

0:25:180:25:23

Not too much.

0:25:230:25:24

Put a tray of rolled oats in to roast. Pop them in the oven.

0:25:240:25:27

I'm just going to toast them for about 15 minutes.

0:25:270:25:31

That's your chocolate all lovely and melted.

0:25:310:25:34

Into that you put about two thirds of the cream

0:25:340:25:39

and a bit of icing sugar going into what's left of our cream.

0:25:390:25:43

I'm not very into weighing! And let's give it a whipping.

0:25:430:25:47

Lovely. Right, that is the work done.

0:25:500:25:53

So you just need to add the oats...

0:25:530:25:56

..which get a quick coating in honey.

0:25:580:26:00

A little bit of a sweetie edge. Yummy.

0:26:000:26:03

So once your oats are honeyed, into the choccy.

0:26:030:26:06

Oh, look at that. Oats in choccy. What a glorious thing.

0:26:090:26:15

Put some chocolatey oats into the bottom of the glass,

0:26:150:26:18

then layer on the cream. Very naughty this pudding. Very naughty.

0:26:180:26:22

Then top that with the boozy fruit.

0:26:220:26:25

So by now you must surely have understood

0:26:250:26:28

the full health benefits of the oat.

0:26:280:26:31

Well, this is a dish in which those health benefits

0:26:310:26:33

have no relevance whatsoever.

0:26:330:26:36

This is pure pudding and a joy to eat.

0:26:360:26:40

My God, it's yummy, Black Forest cranachan.

0:26:400:26:44

We're going in! Ah...mmm!

0:26:520:26:57

Man, that really, that really... blows my bagpipes! Ha ha!

0:27:020:27:08

No, argh!

0:27:120:27:14

Right, we've seen the oat's journey from mill to drawer.

0:27:140:27:18

From porridge to on-your-plate deliciousness.

0:27:180:27:22

But now I'm stepping my revival campaign up a gear.

0:27:220:27:25

We're taking the humble oat to the high life.

0:27:250:27:29

Ah, hello.

0:27:290:27:30

'At Edinburgh's Balmoral Hotel with the help of

0:27:300:27:33

'cocktail connoisseur Biff Raven-Hill, I'm going to turn

0:27:330:27:36

'the oat into something sophisticated -

0:27:360:27:39

'an oat-based cocktail.'

0:27:390:27:41

Atholl Brose was originally a Scottish drink

0:27:410:27:44

and it was made with whisky and oats and honey.

0:27:440:27:47

Good combination.

0:27:470:27:49

Yes, absolutely, and the first recorded recipe

0:27:490:27:52

we have of it is from 1475.

0:27:520:27:54

Legend has it it was invented by the first Earl of Atholl.

0:27:540:27:58

A later relative, the Duke of Atholl, then wrote the recipe down

0:27:580:28:02

so it's handed down within families

0:28:020:28:05

and they all have their own little tweaks on it.

0:28:050:28:07

-But those are the basic three ingredients?

-Yes.

0:28:070:28:09

-Oats, honey, whisky?

-Yes.

-Done.

-Yep.

0:28:090:28:13

It's a centuries-old mix, but currently right back in fashion.

0:28:130:28:17

This year an Atholl Brose even won best whisky liqueur

0:28:170:28:20

at the World Whisky Awards.

0:28:200:28:21

But I want to show you how to make your own.

0:28:210:28:24

So what you want to do first of all is just strain off your oats.

0:28:250:28:29

OK, so these are these soaked oats. Put it all in here.

0:28:290:28:33

-So we're getting out the starchy water.

-Absolutely.

0:28:330:28:35

Brose comes from the old Scottish "brouse" and brouse means "broth".

0:28:350:28:42

'Add whisky and honey to the oat-infused water

0:28:440:28:47

'and then the fun bit.'

0:28:470:28:48

-ICE CUBES RATTLE

-I've always wanted to do this!

0:28:490:28:52

-In?

-Absolutely.

0:28:540:28:55

This'll be a first - porridge in a martini glass.

0:28:550:28:58

Ho ho ho!

0:28:580:28:59

It's quite full so...ha ha ha!

0:29:000:29:03

It won't be after I've had a go! Ha ha ha! Cheers.

0:29:030:29:06

Mmm! That really is oaty goodness. Yummy. Mmm.

0:29:100:29:15

-You get that back taste of oats that you're not quite expecting.

-Starchiness.

0:29:180:29:22

'So who'd have thought your breakfast ingredient

0:29:220:29:26

'could also be your nightcap?'

0:29:260:29:28

Cheers. 'That's versatility for you.'

0:29:280:29:30

They may be basic but they are brilliant.

0:29:320:29:35

They are nutritionally loaded, delicious.

0:29:350:29:37

There are so many different things you can do with them

0:29:370:29:40

and my mission is to make sure that all of you

0:29:400:29:43

are going out there and getting your oats!

0:29:430:29:46

Stay with us as we launch a revival campaign

0:29:480:29:51

for yet another classic British ingredient.

0:29:510:29:54

This is one of the best of British ingredients.

0:30:020:30:06

It really is quite sensational.

0:30:060:30:08

That is so tender.

0:30:080:30:09

Oh. They're delightful.

0:30:090:30:13

They were the backbone of the British diet for centuries.

0:30:130:30:16

But tragically we've stopped eating these little beauties.

0:30:160:30:19

I'm Gary Rhodes

0:30:190:30:20

and I'm riding to the rescue of the Great British runner bean

0:30:200:30:24

and the broad bean and I'm hoping you will help me in the fight back.

0:30:240:30:28

'I'll be revealing how brilliant and amazing beans really are...'

0:30:280:30:32

Do you know, I've been cooking for 35 years

0:30:320:30:34

and I have never tasted anything quite like this?

0:30:340:30:36

'..and how our British beans are still loved around the world.

0:30:360:30:40

It's exciting my palate right now.

0:30:400:30:42

Chef, I'm impressed.

0:30:420:30:43

'And in the revival kitchen, I'll be showing you what a knock out

0:30:430:30:47

'these classic British ingredients can be.'

0:30:470:30:49

These over French beans any day.

0:30:490:30:51

Do you know these conjure up memories for me

0:30:550:30:57

of my mum cooking us fresh diamond cut runner beans?

0:30:570:31:00

Cooked off with a little touch of onion, bacon and a knob of butter.

0:31:000:31:04

Simple but delicious.

0:31:040:31:07

But these days the Great British public is turning its back on

0:31:070:31:11

our quintessential summer vegetables.

0:31:110:31:13

And that's because the green bean competition in our supermarkets

0:31:130:31:17

has become pretty fierce.

0:31:170:31:19

Let me show you.

0:31:190:31:20

Flat beans from Spain.

0:31:200:31:22

We've also got here the dwarf beans from Egypt.

0:31:220:31:26

Also from Egypt just the green beans.

0:31:260:31:29

Followed by the trimmed extra fine beans from Kenya.

0:31:290:31:31

It's easy to pick up imports all year round

0:31:310:31:36

but surely we should be championing our home grown veg.

0:31:360:31:39

Do you know, I've started to ask myself, why are these beans

0:31:400:31:44

so out of favour with the British public?

0:31:440:31:45

In fact so out of favour, I think I'd struggle to even give them away.

0:31:450:31:50

Do you know exactly what all of these are?

0:31:520:31:54

Peas.

0:31:540:31:56

-Right.

-HE LAUGHS

0:31:560:31:58

What if I gave you some of these to take home?

0:31:580:32:00

-Take it back.

-THEY LAUGH

0:32:000:32:04

-Runner beans.

-Good man.

0:32:070:32:09

Do you know what these are?

0:32:090:32:10

-No. A type of runner beans?

-Broad beans.

0:32:120:32:14

Excuse me, can I ask you a question?

0:32:140:32:16

Sorry I'm late.

0:32:160:32:18

You see, I can't even give them away.

0:32:200:32:22

It doesn't matter who we ask, you know,

0:32:220:32:25

I haven't done very well, have I?

0:32:250:32:27

I thought these would be gone like that. Nobody wants them.

0:32:270:32:30

Sad.

0:32:300:32:33

British runner beans have seen a shocking decline.

0:32:330:32:37

We've lost three-quarters of our runner bean fields over the past 25 years.

0:32:370:32:42

Farms like this one in Kent

0:32:420:32:44

stopped growing them due to cheap foreign imports.

0:32:440:32:48

But that's not the only reason the poor old runner bean is suffering.

0:32:480:32:52

Apparently we're just not keen on them.

0:32:520:32:54

Perhaps it's because we're just a bit lazy and can't be bothered to chop them up.

0:32:540:32:58

But farmer Matthew Gedney has started growing runner beans again

0:32:580:33:01

in his farm in Dartford.

0:33:010:33:03

How do you compete with all of the imported beans from overseas?

0:33:030:33:09

Er, well, it's hard to compete but what we're trying to do is offer,

0:33:090:33:12

really, a taste comparison to imported products and by offering

0:33:120:33:16

a UK grown and freshly processed and packaged product.

0:33:160:33:19

We're looking to really get the flavour.

0:33:190:33:22

Keep the sugars within the plant which sometimes can get lost.

0:33:220:33:25

During the transit of something coming over from a foreign country,

0:33:250:33:29

the sugars turn to starch rather than the UK product

0:33:290:33:31

which is harvested and effectively on the shelf in the same day.

0:33:310:33:34

And I wish the British public understood and realised

0:33:340:33:37

-and recognised this.

-Yep.

0:33:370:33:39

To compete with the cheap ready-chopped beans flown in

0:33:390:33:42

from abroad Matthew has come up with an ingenious solution.

0:33:420:33:45

These are our machines that we developed.

0:33:460:33:48

Obviously they're not in the sort of state that they would be in

0:33:480:33:51

during production but these are something that we've developed

0:33:510:33:54

to be able to compete with what's done in foreign climates.

0:33:540:33:58

Oh, goodness me. Yeah, this is amazing.

0:34:000:34:03

That is so quick.

0:34:060:34:08

-And that's it, as simple as that.

-I'm not as fast as our staff would do it.

0:34:120:34:16

No, but you're a lot quicker than when I cut them!

0:34:160:34:19

They feel almost as if they're stringless.

0:34:190:34:21

Well, they are stringless. Part of what we've done on this machinery

0:34:210:34:24

is we're removing the string mechanically.

0:34:240:34:27

So we take out the possibility of the customer getting string

0:34:270:34:30

and that's one of the things that our customer wanted us to provide.

0:34:300:34:34

There's nothing worse than a lump of string in your mouth on a runner bean.

0:34:340:34:37

This is the way to win over the customer, isn't it?

0:34:370:34:40

Give them exactly what they want. They don't want that stringy bit all hanging around.

0:34:400:34:44

No, it's fantastic.

0:34:440:34:45

Matthew currently supplies Marks & Spencer with his runner beans.

0:34:450:34:49

I'm desperate to get to the bottom of the bean business

0:34:490:34:52

so I've come to see Hugh Mowat, their Product Technologist.

0:34:520:34:56

How do beans sort of stand up against all the other

0:34:570:35:01

young vegetables coming through at this time of year?

0:35:010:35:04

These runner beans are our most popular green bean,

0:35:040:35:07

-bean and pea product that we sell.

-Really?

-Absolutely.

-Excellent.

0:35:070:35:10

And I don't think maybe you'd find that in other retailers.

0:35:100:35:14

We have a core customer and they come back for more.

0:35:140:35:17

The sliced bean is our dominant sale.

0:35:170:35:19

-About 80% of our sales come from the prepared bean.

-80%?

0:35:190:35:24

I'm afraid my favourite is always going to be the true

0:35:240:35:27

old classic, having them whole.

0:35:270:35:29

Our more mature customer will buy these

0:35:290:35:32

and they've got either the time or the knowledge of how to do that.

0:35:320:35:36

Obviously you know the sugar content within them

0:35:360:35:40

actually becomes very starchy a lot quicker in something that's cut.

0:35:400:35:42

I would love to convince you that our beans are sweet and tender.

0:35:420:35:48

-Every time.

-I'm tough to convince.

0:35:480:35:50

It's about old habits. Old habits die hard.

0:35:500:35:53

-We all know that.

-Indeed. Indeed.

0:35:530:35:55

Whether you choose to buy prepared or whole runner beans,

0:35:550:35:59

just make sure they're British.

0:35:590:36:01

And in the revival kitchen I'm going to show you

0:36:010:36:04

just how easy and tasty fresh British runner beans can be.

0:36:040:36:08

Do you know there seems to be a myth about

0:36:100:36:11

this wonderful vegetable the runner bean?

0:36:110:36:13

That it's only there to accompany your main course.

0:36:130:36:16

Well, it's not.

0:36:160:36:17

This can take the lead role of any dish so I'm hoping that

0:36:170:36:20

I'll change your minds here because I'm going to be making for you

0:36:200:36:23

a wonderful runner bean, new potato and prawn salad

0:36:230:36:26

with fresh mint vinaigrette.

0:36:260:36:28

You'll notice how I've actually cut these into long pieces like this.

0:36:320:36:35

You know it's interesting when you do cut them.

0:36:350:36:38

Just take a look.

0:36:380:36:39

You'll notice there is a little moistness just happening in here.

0:36:390:36:43

You'll see where it's just been cut.

0:36:430:36:45

It's that moistness I want you to enjoy

0:36:450:36:48

because within that there's flavour.

0:36:480:36:50

So if they're sat in your fridge too long, the pre-cut,

0:36:500:36:52

you're going to find that has gone and that's not what we want.

0:36:520:36:55

We want to take maximum from these beautiful beans.

0:36:550:36:58

Cook for just a minute or two.

0:36:580:37:00

They were one of my favourite vegetables as a child.

0:37:000:37:03

Even then they were a little bit more sort of earthy

0:37:030:37:06

and almost hairy, I've got to say, but I still loved them.

0:37:060:37:08

These now have moved on so much.

0:37:080:37:11

They're so much younger, softer, even more tender

0:37:110:37:15

but haven't lost any of that true identity and flavour

0:37:150:37:18

and that's what I adore about them.

0:37:180:37:19

These over French beans any day. Definitely.

0:37:190:37:23

The runners are perfect when they're just tender with a slight bite.

0:37:230:37:27

Leave them to cool naturally.

0:37:270:37:29

Right, the next thing. I'm going to make a couple of dressings.

0:37:300:37:34

The first one is just using some natural yoghurt.

0:37:340:37:37

Sprinkle on some cayenne pepper, a good pinch of salt and fresh mint.

0:37:370:37:41

And just give that a nice little stir.

0:37:430:37:45

Right the next dressing.

0:37:480:37:50

What I have here.

0:37:500:37:52

This is also very, very simple and easy to make.

0:37:520:37:55

And I have melted mint jelly straight out of a jar.

0:37:550:37:59

So I've allowed it to soften like this.

0:37:590:38:02

To that we're going to add some fresh lime.

0:38:030:38:06

And I think, you know, one to two limes would be more than enough.

0:38:070:38:11

Lime will really help balance the overall flavour.

0:38:110:38:15

Then add a dash of nut or vegetable oil,

0:38:160:38:18

a little fresh mint,

0:38:180:38:20

a pinch of salt

0:38:200:38:21

and a twist of pepper.

0:38:210:38:23

Totally different consistency, as you can see.

0:38:240:38:28

And now, when we look at the two together,

0:38:290:38:32

I mean, look at the difference we're going to have.

0:38:320:38:34

Delicious. Right.

0:38:340:38:36

Now it's just the prawns.

0:38:360:38:38

I cut my king prawns in half

0:38:380:38:40

and you need to be careful not to over-cook them.

0:38:400:38:42

I'm taking just a little knob of butter, here, into the pan.

0:38:420:38:47

And mixing with it, believe it or not,

0:38:470:38:50

just water.

0:38:500:38:52

A little touch of water.

0:38:520:38:53

It's almost like a quick steaming process - stroke poaching.

0:38:540:38:58

They'll cook in seconds.

0:38:580:38:59

Look at this.

0:39:000:39:02

Immediately we've got changing colour. Look at this.

0:39:020:39:05

Now for the salad base, starting with the runner beans.

0:39:050:39:08

I'm placing some warm new potatoes around the edge.

0:39:090:39:11

Some sliced red onion.

0:39:110:39:13

And, you know, this is what I love about the beans really.

0:39:140:39:18

It isn't just about using them when they're piping hot

0:39:180:39:21

with knobs of butter and seasoning.

0:39:210:39:23

They're great just for simple things like salads.

0:39:230:39:26

Use them as cold dishes, they really are delicious.

0:39:260:39:28

Time to drizzle on those two dressings.

0:39:280:39:31

The sweet and the sour.

0:39:310:39:33

That's it.

0:39:340:39:36

There we have a runner bean, new potato and prawn salad

0:39:360:39:40

with fresh mint dressing.

0:39:400:39:43

Well, I'm hoping this salad,

0:39:440:39:45

looking at the wonderful colours it's creating and flavours it's definitely creating,

0:39:450:39:49

is going to help revive the wonderful green bean

0:39:490:39:52

and I don't mean any green bean.

0:39:520:39:54

This is the British runner bean.

0:39:540:39:57

Let's have a taste.

0:39:570:39:58

Mmmm.

0:40:010:40:02

That really does work.

0:40:050:40:07

Absolutely wonderful.

0:40:070:40:09

A simple dish which is really allowing this bean to show off.

0:40:090:40:15

It has an awful lot more to its repertoire than just a side veg.

0:40:150:40:20

Beans weren't always such a neglected vegetable.

0:40:250:40:28

In Somerset, the humble bean has a long and proud history.

0:40:280:40:31

You know the phrase, full of beans?

0:40:310:40:34

Well, that's because beans were once a working main source of sustenance.

0:40:340:40:38

The broad bean has been a common crop in the UK since at least the Iron Age.

0:40:380:40:42

I've come to Martock

0:40:440:40:46

because it gives its name to the oldest British variety

0:40:460:40:49

of broad bean, the Martock bean, and it's still grown here today.

0:40:490:40:53

The Martock bean is said to date back to the 12th century.

0:40:530:40:56

Fergus Dowding, an ex-antiques dealer, is a bean enthusiast like me

0:40:560:41:01

and has revived this centuries old broad bean.

0:41:010:41:04

So, come and look at England's oldest broad bean variety.

0:41:070:41:11

This is quite stunning though, isn't it?

0:41:130:41:15

Look at it. Beautiful colours.

0:41:150:41:17

From one seed you will get 200 seeds

0:41:170:41:20

and they move very quickly from being,

0:41:200:41:23

what we now today call a ripe green bean. It then dries out very quickly.

0:41:230:41:27

Historically that's what you would pick. The dried bean.

0:41:270:41:30

Fergus's Martock beans are currently in flower.

0:41:300:41:33

He harvests the dry bean in the late summer months

0:41:330:41:35

and he has some of last year's crop to show me.

0:41:350:41:39

So, here we have the dried bean.

0:41:390:41:42

Goodness me. I didn't expect it to be quite as black as that.

0:41:420:41:45

Look at that there. I mean, they are wonderful.

0:41:450:41:49

I thought I would break into that quite easily.

0:41:490:41:51

That is rock hard.

0:41:510:41:53

What makes this so special?

0:41:530:41:55

It stores so beautifully easily in almost any condition.

0:41:550:41:59

I've kept them for four years at least and cooked with them

0:41:590:42:03

and I've seen no deterioration in quality.

0:42:030:42:07

Well, that's excellent.

0:42:070:42:08

Dried broad beans were a culinary mainstay in Britain

0:42:080:42:11

for centuries and a key ingredient in something called pottage.

0:42:110:42:15

I've come to see how it was made.

0:42:150:42:17

Hello, Caroline.

0:42:170:42:18

Caroline Yeldham is a medieval food historian

0:42:180:42:22

and I'm bringing her some of Fergus's soaked Martock beans.

0:42:220:42:25

Wonderful.

0:42:250:42:27

Put the lid back on so it doesn't boil dry.

0:42:270:42:29

So, tell me, have you ever actually cooked with

0:42:290:42:32

-the Martock broad bean before?

-Not this particular species.

0:42:320:42:35

-I've cooked with broad beans, dried fava beans before.

-Right.

0:42:350:42:39

They're a staple of the medieval diet.

0:42:390:42:41

Those and dried peas were always used for pottages.

0:42:410:42:44

Yeah. Why were the beans of such importance

0:42:440:42:47

in this culinary diet?

0:42:470:42:51

Because they're a source of protein essentially that will grow wild

0:42:510:42:56

and if you're a poor person in the medieval world

0:42:560:42:59

protein is both very important -

0:42:590:43:02

you're working physically very hard, much harder than virtually anybody

0:43:020:43:06

does today - and animal protein is both scarce and valuable

0:43:060:43:13

so for ordinary people a source of vegetable protein

0:43:130:43:17

would be very, very important.

0:43:170:43:19

Yeah. What's happening with these? Chopped as well?

0:43:190:43:21

-Chop it as well. Yes.

-She's a tough old lady.

0:43:210:43:24

You are actually making me really work.

0:43:240:43:27

I'm just your commis here today.

0:43:270:43:28

It's beginning to feel like that.

0:43:280:43:30

'Caroline adds onion, garlic, leek, carrot and mustard,

0:43:300:43:34

'pepper and herbs.

0:43:340:43:36

'Salt is added at the last minute

0:43:360:43:38

'as it can make beans tough if added too early.

0:43:380:43:40

-This looks delightful.

-Well, I hope you enjoy it.

0:43:410:43:44

Thank you. There we are.

0:43:440:43:47

'But how does the Martock bean pottage taste?'

0:43:470:43:51

Well, thank you, Chef.

0:43:510:43:52

My pleasure.

0:43:520:43:54

I'm glad you enjoyed it. You're enjoying it.

0:43:560:43:57

I'm enjoying it very much actually. Very much indeed.

0:43:570:44:00

You know, I've been cooking for 35 years

0:44:020:44:04

and I have never tasted anything quite like this.

0:44:040:44:07

This is the beauty of cooking.

0:44:070:44:09

I mean, you know, there's always something fresh and new

0:44:090:44:12

to discover and, in fact, here there's a piece of history,

0:44:120:44:15

which I believe can make new history on many a menu today.

0:44:150:44:19

But in the revival kitchen I'm going for something a little more modern.

0:44:210:44:26

An Italian inspired dish.

0:44:260:44:29

Do you know, I love British ingredients at their absolute best

0:44:290:44:32

and that's exactly what I've got with some gorgeous runner beans and

0:44:320:44:35

some broad beans. So, I thought I'd make a dish which is really simple,

0:44:350:44:39

which we all love to eat and it is a broad and runner bean risotto.

0:44:390:44:43

Why did I choose this dish?

0:44:450:44:47

Well, I think it creates a great marriage between the two.

0:44:470:44:50

It really does. You've got that nice little bite.

0:44:500:44:52

The softness of the broad bean.

0:44:520:44:54

That slight little crunch again of the runner bean.

0:44:540:44:57

So we've got a contrast there in textures.

0:44:570:44:59

This is exactly the way I make it actually in my own home.

0:44:590:45:04

First thing, a little touch of olive oil in the pan.

0:45:050:45:07

I'm using extra virgin olive oil for that extra taste.

0:45:070:45:11

To that I'm going to add one large onion.

0:45:110:45:14

This is an easy to cook risotto I was taught in Southern Italy.

0:45:140:45:17

Once the onions are cooked,

0:45:170:45:20

it's time for 300 grams of arborio rice -

0:45:200:45:23

the perfect rice for risotto.

0:45:230:45:24

The next stage, of course, is to make a vegetable stock.

0:45:260:45:30

Do you really think I've made a vegetable stock?

0:45:300:45:32

This is how easy it was.

0:45:320:45:34

Taking just two vegetable stock cubes into one litre of water,

0:45:340:45:39

brought them up to the boil, stirred it round a little bit.

0:45:390:45:42

Finished. That's how quick and easy it is.

0:45:420:45:44

The stock gives a consistent flavour.

0:45:440:45:47

Add three-quarters of it while it's still hot

0:45:470:45:50

and simmer for about 16 minutes.

0:45:500:45:52

I genuinely believe it's quite shocking

0:45:520:45:54

that in the last, sort of, 20 years or so,

0:45:540:45:57

we are only producing about 25% of British runner beans

0:45:570:46:01

that we used to in days of old?

0:46:010:46:03

That's when it would be down to your local greengrocer

0:46:030:46:06

and you were buying these at their absolute prime.

0:46:060:46:08

We didn't have all these imported vegetables

0:46:080:46:10

coming from across the world. We had our own.

0:46:100:46:13

I want to cut these just into little diamonds

0:46:130:46:16

so it gives us quite a nice little shape and,

0:46:160:46:18

at the same time, making sure they're nice bite-sized pieces.

0:46:180:46:23

Remove the broad beans from their pods and boil up some salted water.

0:46:250:46:30

Sit a sieve into it, like that.

0:46:300:46:32

And then, in with the beans.

0:46:330:46:36

They need very little cooking. two or three minutes at most.

0:46:360:46:40

The broad beans are even sweeter if you remove their outer shell.

0:46:400:46:44

They're not too hot.

0:46:450:46:47

You can just squeeze them out like that

0:46:470:46:50

and we have beautiful broad beans

0:46:500:46:52

and I think our risotto is just about ready as well.

0:46:520:46:58

So the timing couldn't be better.

0:46:580:47:00

Add more stock if you need it. The texture should be fairly loose.

0:47:000:47:05

Season with a touch of salt and pepper

0:47:050:47:08

and now we're going to stir in some creaminess.

0:47:080:47:11

I've got here some mascarpone. It just adds that little piquancy

0:47:120:47:15

but this one with a slight cheesiness to it.

0:47:150:47:18

Which is going to work very well, of course,

0:47:180:47:20

if you're also going to add parmesan cheese.

0:47:200:47:23

But I love a knob of butter working into this.

0:47:230:47:25

I'm going to be reasonably generous.

0:47:250:47:28

It's quite interesting, in Italy I would be laughed it.

0:47:280:47:31

They would say, "This is ridiculous, put at least four ounces of butter in to it."

0:47:310:47:36

But I thought I'd be a little bit more healthy with this dish.

0:47:360:47:39

We have now a wonderful risotto.

0:47:400:47:44

Let's take our lovely warm runner beans, scatter those inside.

0:47:440:47:49

Leaving a few just to garnish the top.

0:47:490:47:52

I think we're allowed that little touch of garnish.

0:47:520:47:54

Add the broad beans to the mix. That's lovely.

0:47:540:47:56

I'm going to throw in some chopped chives to add a fresh onion flavour.

0:47:560:48:01

Once served up it's ready for a bit of garnishing.

0:48:020:48:06

Broad beans.

0:48:060:48:07

Then a good splash of olive oil and a sprinkling of grated parmesan

0:48:080:48:12

and we have a broad and runner bean risotto.

0:48:120:48:17

This is the bit I look forward to.

0:48:200:48:23

Tasting.

0:48:230:48:25

Mmm.

0:48:260:48:28

That is so lovely to eat, it really is.

0:48:280:48:31

You saw how easy it was,

0:48:310:48:33

so, come on let's actually use these Great British beans.

0:48:330:48:36

The broad and runner bean are two of our best, so let's show them off

0:48:360:48:40

in perhaps just a little Italian style.

0:48:400:48:43

Delicious.

0:48:430:48:44

Broad and runner bean risotto.

0:48:440:48:46

Britain is one of the world's largest producers of the fava bean.

0:48:530:48:56

These are broad beans left in the field to dry

0:48:560:48:59

and harvested in late August.

0:48:590:49:01

And yet they don't end up on the British plate.

0:49:010:49:04

The majority are used as animal feed

0:49:040:49:06

and the rest go mostly to the Middle East and North Africa

0:49:060:49:10

where they love to eat them.

0:49:100:49:12

If you look hard enough there are pockets of dried bean lovers

0:49:130:49:15

still out here in Britain.

0:49:150:49:17

Especially in the Middle Eastern communities.

0:49:170:49:19

At Mr Falafel in West London

0:49:190:49:21

Ahmed Yassine is forced to buy imported fava beans.

0:49:210:49:25

-Ahmed.

-Hello, good morning.

0:49:250:49:26

-Hi. How are you?

-I'm fine. How are you?

0:49:260:49:28

-Do you mind if I come round?

-Please do.

0:49:280:49:30

What are you making this morning?

0:49:300:49:32

Er what we're going to be preparing is Ful Medames

0:49:320:49:36

which is made from fava beans and chick peas.

0:49:360:49:39

A clove of garlic.

0:49:390:49:40

Crush it under the mortar first. That's it.

0:49:400:49:44

Do you want to use the bigger one? Maybe it's easier.

0:49:440:49:47

-No, no, I'm fine.

-Are you sure?

0:49:470:49:49

Mine is done. THEY LAUGH

0:49:490:49:52

But I have been cheating. I've been using the one with the bigger area.

0:49:520:49:56

OK, let me just give this... Ah, that's perfect. That's brilliant.

0:49:560:50:00

The pre-soaked fava beans are boiled and ready to mash.

0:50:000:50:04

Three generous scoops in there.

0:50:040:50:05

It's interesting because the fava bean really has been forgotten in this country.

0:50:050:50:09

-You just don't see it appearing anywhere.

-No.

0:50:090:50:11

Is it really that popular across the sort of Middle East and Egypt?

0:50:110:50:15

Absolutely. Yes. You know how you have your builders

0:50:150:50:18

-stopping for an English breakfast?

-Of course.

0:50:180:50:20

That's exactly what it is like in the Middle East with ful.

0:50:200:50:24

-Really?

-People who sell this stuff wake up very early

0:50:240:50:28

in order to boil and simmer...

0:50:280:50:31

So it's just part really of basic diet?

0:50:310:50:33

-Absolutely. It does keep you going..

-A good way to start the day.

0:50:330:50:37

So we'll add a bit of cumin as well.

0:50:370:50:39

Freshly squeezed lemon juice and some oranges as well.

0:50:390:50:43

-Can you smell that?

-Orange. Oh, there's no question.

0:50:430:50:45

I mean there's every flavour there coming through, isn't it?

0:50:450:50:48

Put olive oil and here we go.

0:50:480:50:51

OK. There it is.

0:50:510:50:52

I mean, I think that looks absolutely delightful.

0:50:520:50:55

You know, and this is the thing I love about this.

0:50:550:50:58

There's a broad bean in there.

0:50:580:51:00

It just shows how versatile this bean is. It's incredible.

0:51:000:51:04

So, let's actually have a nice bit of that.

0:51:040:51:07

Ah.

0:51:090:51:10

That is so moreish.

0:51:130:51:14

It's exciting my palate right now.

0:51:140:51:17

Everything has come alive

0:51:170:51:19

and you know that orange is such an influence.

0:51:190:51:21

-My wife completely disagrees!

-Chef, I'm impressed.

0:51:210:51:23

Thank you. Thank you, Gary.

0:51:230:51:25

Someone as passionate about the fava bean as Ahmed is Nick Saltmarsh.

0:51:260:51:31

He's looking to revive this Great British dried bean.

0:51:310:51:34

These really are Britain's forgotten food.

0:51:350:51:37

We've been eating these for thousands of years

0:51:370:51:40

until about 500 years ago, when we just stopped.

0:51:400:51:43

With agricultural and social developments,

0:51:430:51:45

people became wealthier,

0:51:450:51:46

people switched from eating beans as their source of protein

0:51:460:51:49

to eating meat and then beans were only eaten by the poor

0:51:490:51:53

so they became stigmatised as the food of the poor

0:51:530:51:56

and consequently became less and less fashionable

0:51:560:51:58

until we forgot about them all together.

0:51:580:52:00

What inspired you to get involved with this?

0:52:000:52:02

Because it's something that you can tell, just speaking to you,

0:52:020:52:05

you've got this real love and belief in this very simple product.

0:52:050:52:10

I grew up in East Anglia so I've seen fields of beans growing all my life

0:52:100:52:13

and I've never put that together with the fact that we just don't see

0:52:130:52:16

the beans in the shops. We don't eat them.

0:52:160:52:19

And when I made that connection I was just staggered

0:52:190:52:22

and inspired to think about why we don't eat them

0:52:220:52:25

and how we could be eating them and all the things we could be doing with them.

0:52:250:52:29

Yeah, it's a totally forgotten product

0:52:290:52:30

that I wasn't even really taught about.

0:52:300:52:33

Let alone, you know, working with.

0:52:330:52:35

No, and our climate and our soils are perfect for producing them

0:52:350:52:38

and yet where do they go?

0:52:380:52:40

-They go abroad or to livestock.

-It doesn't make sense, does it?

0:52:400:52:42

Nick hopes that one day Ahmed will be able to source

0:52:420:52:45

British fava beans direct.

0:52:450:52:47

I mean how mad is that?

0:52:470:52:49

We export all of our fava beans abroad.

0:52:490:52:51

Only to import them back in.

0:52:510:52:53

Shops don't sell them any more, simply because nobody asks for them.

0:52:530:52:57

So there's your mission.

0:52:570:52:58

Go out and ask your supermarkets and local health food shops

0:52:580:53:02

to stack them on their shelves and help me in this revival campaign.

0:53:020:53:08

Inspired by Ahmed's and Nick's British dried beans

0:53:080:53:11

I'm keen to add my own twist to a classic Middle Eastern dish.

0:53:110:53:15

Do you know, the next dish I'm going to make is going to really

0:53:180:53:20

show off how versatile a broad bean is,

0:53:200:53:23

because, in fact, it's one that's really inspired me over the years

0:53:230:53:26

and it's from the Middle East and it's called hummus.

0:53:260:53:28

Normally associated, of course, with the chickpea.

0:53:280:53:31

But here I'm going to make it with fresh broad beans, not even dried.

0:53:310:53:35

So this is simply a broad bean hummus with granary loaf crisps.

0:53:350:53:41

But I'm not going to really abuse or forget

0:53:440:53:46

that great old classic recipe of hummus

0:53:460:53:48

because I want to introduce some of the chickpeas.

0:53:480:53:51

These, I simply opened a tin.

0:53:510:53:54

That is one tin of chickpeas there.

0:53:540:53:57

Just draining them off. Allowing all that lovely liquor underneath

0:53:570:54:01

because that liquor will also become a very important part of this recipe.

0:54:010:54:04

I'm using fresh broad beans that will infuse the hummus

0:54:060:54:09

with a natural sweetness, but you could try fava beans

0:54:090:54:11

if you can find them.

0:54:110:54:13

So, I'm just going to pop these into a liquidiser.

0:54:150:54:19

Of course you can use a food processor.

0:54:190:54:21

I'm putting just a handful of chickpeas into the mix.

0:54:220:54:24

You're probably wondering why I'm adding these

0:54:260:54:28

if I'm using all of those beans.

0:54:280:54:30

Well, this is still going to give us that base flavour.

0:54:300:54:32

That kind of pastiness that it needs to actually hold it all together

0:54:320:54:36

and give you a really good texture and consistency,

0:54:360:54:38

and at the same time you're still actually capturing

0:54:380:54:42

a classic hummus sort of flavour.

0:54:420:54:44

Then add two heaped tablespoons of tahini paste,

0:54:440:54:47

garlic and olive oil.

0:54:470:54:49

And I'm also going to add a pinch of caster sugar.

0:54:490:54:53

Now, I did just say about the natural sweetness.

0:54:530:54:55

This just helps it along and I literally mean...

0:54:550:54:58

that. That's all it's going to need.

0:54:580:55:01

It doesn't need any more, otherwise it will become that little artificial

0:55:010:55:04

and that's certainly not what I'm after.

0:55:040:55:06

Now, this liquor.

0:55:060:55:08

I think we can add... Well, just about all of that.

0:55:080:55:12

And now it just gets a little bit noisy.

0:55:130:55:16

LIQUIDISER WHIRRS

0:55:160:55:18

Right, I think we're ready now for the lemon juice

0:55:210:55:24

and I want the equivalent really of about a tablespoon

0:55:240:55:28

and you'll be amazed how that will change the dimension of this really.

0:55:280:55:32

It really opens up all the other flavours.

0:55:320:55:35

Every single other taste is going to become even more alive.

0:55:350:55:38

That's it.

0:55:420:55:43

Simple as that.

0:55:430:55:46

Look at it. It's so lovely and soft.

0:55:460:55:50

A few of these wonderful little broad beans

0:55:500:55:53

to show them off in their true glory.

0:55:530:55:56

Just drizzle on some olive oil

0:55:560:55:58

and some lightly toasted sesame seeds to finish.

0:55:580:56:01

There we are.

0:56:020:56:04

Home-made broad bean hummus. Absolutely wonderful.

0:56:040:56:07

It looks so good, I want to eat it.

0:56:070:56:10

This shows off just how good this bean is

0:56:120:56:16

and how much we should be sharing it, using it

0:56:160:56:19

and enjoying it right now.

0:56:190:56:21

These are very easy words, but it is divine.

0:56:260:56:29

Please, please have a go at this recipe.

0:56:290:56:31

You saw, it's so easy. All in at once. Blitz. It's made.

0:56:310:56:35

It couldn't be simpler.

0:56:350:56:37

There's one more thing you could do to help revive our British beans

0:56:400:56:44

and that's grow your own.

0:56:440:56:45

In the Wye Valley, near the Welsh border,

0:56:450:56:48

Adam Alexander is a self-confessed vegaholic

0:56:480:56:50

and an official seed guardian.

0:56:500:56:53

This is my seed bank,

0:56:550:56:57

which is just a regular fridge

0:56:570:56:59

and I've got about 400 varieties of vegetable seeds in here,

0:56:590:57:04

including loads of beans.

0:57:040:57:05

That's a Measner. This is a bean called Moonlight.

0:57:050:57:08

The classic bean Bunyard's Exhibition.

0:57:080:57:11

An absolutely fantastic bean that I found in Damascus last year.

0:57:110:57:16

Adam has some top tips for growing beans at home.

0:57:160:57:19

Look how easy it is.

0:57:190:57:21

I use old loo rolls.

0:57:220:57:24

I never throw loo rolls away and then I'll take one bean

0:57:240:57:27

and put it in each pot.

0:57:270:57:30

I select the best of my beans.

0:57:300:57:32

If they're a bit sort of discoloured or split I won't use them.

0:57:320:57:36

I think growing your own is easy.

0:57:380:57:40

I think people get very worried and put off by it

0:57:400:57:43

and think it's incredibly complicated.

0:57:430:57:45

But it isn't. Basically you get a seed.

0:57:450:57:47

You put it in the ground.

0:57:470:57:49

You keep it reasonably moist and you stand back

0:57:490:57:54

and wait for it to do its job.

0:57:540:57:55

It's hard not to be inspired by all these Great British bean enthusiasts.

0:57:550:58:00

Who would have guessed that we'd have such a rich bean heritage in this country?

0:58:000:58:05

I'm hoping that you've rediscovered these two wonderful British ingredients.

0:58:050:58:09

The British runner bean and, of course, the British broad bean.

0:58:090:58:12

But do you know something, if we don't start buying them soon,

0:58:120:58:16

enjoying them and eating them soon, we're going to lose them.

0:58:160:58:19

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