North East Judging Great British Menu

It's been a closely fought week

for three of the North East's best chefs,

as ambitious newcomer Paul Welburn...

I think the North East needs a new champion...

..and Michelin-starred Frances Atkins...

So this is what's driving us to get to the banquet.

..challenge former champion Colin McGurran...

I'm going to try my best, guys.

..for the chance to cook for our World War II veterans at a banquet

commemorating 70 years since D-day, at London's prestigious St Paul's,

a bastion of British wartime resilience.

Yesterday's dessert course pushed the chefs to their limits,

with Frances leaving the competition.

-Commiserations, Frances.

-It's fine.

Today, Colin and Paul must go head-to-head...

-You come to these competitions to win.

-I'm going to try and stop you.

..cooking their four courses again.

HE SIGHS

The judges want food worthy of war heroes.

I cannot think of a more important dinner in the history of the Great British Menu.

They've got to be up for it.

To make sure the chefs meet the wartime challenge,

there's a fourth judge, Molly Rose OBE,

who risked her life

piloting Spitfires and Hurricanes during World War II.

Everybody was contributing at that time,

because we all knew we'd got our backs to the wall.

The food must be delicious and fitting for the occasion...

-Poppies make me feel sad.

-I don't think I'll feel sad for long.

..as only one chef will emerge victorious.

The chef going forward to represent the North East is...

Paul, I've been to the finals twice. I've been to the banquet once.

This is my third time in the competition and I'm going to go all the way.

Well, I think there should be a new winner for North East.

I'm here to take your crown.

Former champ, Colin, might have been here twice before,

but having lost out at the finals last year,

he's taking nothing for granted.

I've tasted the success of the banquet, I know what it feels like to be sent home.

I'm very determined to get through to the finals week

to make sure I get another dish at the banquet.

Having chalked up some impressive scores during the week,

first-timer Paul is not about to let this opportunity pass him by.

Yeah, I want this now, you know. I didn't come here to come second best.

North East deserves a new winner.

Judges Prue Leith, Matthew Fort

and Oliver Peyton are dissecting the chefs' menus.

Really nice to see Colin McGurran back again.

I love the idea of Grandad's Posh Pie. I think that just sounds great.

Paul's quite an interesting chap. He has got a wealth of experience behind him.

Lots of Michelin restaurants.

I think it's going to be an interesting day.

So, Paul, this is your first time cooking for the judges?

-I'm a little bit nervous now, to be honest.

-And you're the first up, as well.

-Yeah, I know.

-It's a lot of firsts today.

I hope there's not too many firsts.

Well, you never know.

Colin, a 10 for pudding.

I'm quite excited about that.

But Paul got a 10 as well for his main.

Looks as if it's going to be very, very competitive in there.

Come on, then.

Hi there, Colin.

-Hello.

-Back again, the triumph of hope over experience?

-I missed out last year.

-What about this year?

-Yeah, very confident.

-Paul, what about you? Newcomer?

-Yeah.

-Yeah, it must be a little bit tough being up against this guy.

Yeah, it is. Obviously, he's a veteran in his own right.

This is a very, very important occasion,

so I really want to see your best cooking.

-Good luck.

-Thank you.

-Thank you.

Both chefs have a lot of cooking to do for their starters.

You're used to it now, aren't you? How many times is this now?

Well, this will be dish number 33.

33? Fantastic.

Paul's up first with a celebratory breakfast dish

dedicated to his soldier grandfather who served in the Green Howards,

and was a prisoner of war for three years.

Called Duck and Soldiers, with ducks spam, duck liver parfait,

slow-cooked duck egg and sourdough soldiers,

it scored an average seven from veteran Phil Howard.

Phil's comments about your starter was the fact that it wasn't a show-stopper,

-there wasn't enough flair to it.

-I heard on the grapevine

that Matthew likes egg and soldiers.

-Does he, really?

-Yeah, it's one of his favourites.

The chefs' food will also be marked by a guest of honour.

Today it's Air Transport Auxiliary pilot, Molly Rose OBE,

who ferried military aircraft around the country during World War II.

Welcome to the judges' chamber. How are you?

-Thank you.

-So Molly, tell us, what did you do in the war?

Well, I was flying aircraft.

I've got a photograph here that was taken when I first joined ATA.

Isn't that wonderful? What did ATA stand for?

-Air Transport Auxiliary.

-Oh, right.

And the function of ATA really was to ferry aircraft to the squadrons.

Well, today, we're trying to find food suitable for a banquet

to celebrate D-day. It's such an important occasion.

I hope you're going to have a great day.

Well, one wasn't concentrating very much on food during the war, but I'm happy to concentrate today.

Very good.

Paul begins by filling the eggshells,

for his celebratory breakfast starter with duck liver parfait.

He adds cubes of duck spam, pickled mushrooms and slow-cooked duck egg,

then covers in smoked duck and bacon mousse,

before adding his tweaked sourdough soldiers

to a toast rack engraved

with his grandfather's surname and regiment number.

Paul, the soldiers look thicker today.

Yeah, obviously, I took into account Phil's comments.

I actually liked the crisps the way they were.

First down. It's a relief, isn't it?

-It is. A massive relief.

-Well done. You look great.

-Mmm.

-It smells really good.

A lovely light, foamy mousse.

A little jellied quality of the egg white.

The firmness of the smoked duck.

Do you think they'll appreciate the textures, being that it's a breakfast, as well?

You know, everyone likes a good breakfast.

-Does it work in the context of a banquet?

-I think it certainly does.

I think it's absolutely delicious.

Eggs were so rare in wartime,

there must have been nothing nicer than boiled egg and soldiers.

This is a bit of a smart boiled egg and soldiers.

It is quite a rich dish. Do you think it's too rich?

I'm happy it's rich. I wanted that.

Lovely flavours. But it's very, very rich,

which I think is a bit of a mistake for a first course.

What I love about this though, Molly, is that Paul's grandfather was a prisoner of war for three years

so, obviously, with this dish he's referencing his grandfather.

You know, that's pretty amazing.

Well, I think it's a lovely homage to him.

Actually, my husband also was a prisoner of war.

He was captured seven days after D-day,

having done a Normandy landing.

-And how did you keep working?

-When he landed up in the prisoner of war camp,

at least then one knew he was safe, even if he was getting very hungry.

Well, clearly, this is not a wartime dish,

but, certainly, it's going to be up there at the top.

-Eight or nine for me.

-And I think it's absolutely delicious.

And I think would make a very good first course, indeed.

Next up is Colin's modern-day Ration Pack.

He's combining elements of a typical D-day ration box on one plate,

including a vegetable Bouillon soup,

technical corned beef hash disguised as an egg, Parmesan cigarette

and unusual chocolate-cherry explosion.

It scored eight points during the week.

-Still looking very calm there, Colin.

-No, I'm confident about the dish.

I'm pretty much ready to serve.

Colin's presenting his dish on glass-topped Army mess tins,

filled with reproduction ration packaging.

He starts with his unusual corned beef hash

covered in mustard panna cotta.

Next, the tea bag of soup Bouillon

tarragon emulsion,

a smoked bacon croquette, Parmesan cigarette

and, finally, his controversial cherry-chocolate explosion.

-OK.

-Well done.

-Well done.

-Good. One down.

Oh, I say.

How exciting. Real chocolate on this one.

-I am going to go straight for the chocolate, Molly. What do you think?

-MOLLY CHUCKLES

Well, I could be inclined to keep the chocolate from the bonne bouche at the end.

Mm, that's just what you need in a starter.

Delicious.

Do you think the judges will get the chocolate

-and appreciate its part in the dish?

-I think so, especially as you've got the veteran there.

She had a ration pack, without a doubt.

In that ration pack was chocolate.

-MOLLY:

-Of course, it was a very special thing in the war.

We used to be issued a tuppenny bar of chocolate

when we started our flying in the morning.

I rather like this cigarette. I'm not sure about the panna cotta in the hash.

I thought that was delicious.

The only thing I don't think works is the stock cube thing.

-Oh! Sorry.

-Oh, you...

I tried to prise my chocolate bomb off and it's just exploded all over my dish.

Oh, no!

You did that.

-What a mess you've made of it.

-I'm so sorry.

If two out of four people have managed to explode their

chocolate ball, then it's not going to be any good for a banquet dish.

I'm not enthusiastic about it.

I'm sorry, but you want an opinion.

That's what you're here for!

Paul's fish course, Preservation Of British Waters is up next,

with cured salmon and pickled clams.

It showcases typical preserving methods used during the war

but was criticised for its lack of flair.

He lost points for forgetting to plate up his brown butter crab.

You're not going to forget anything to day?

-Fingers crossed, no.

-I will remind you if you forget it, yeah.

I'm sure you will.

Paul starts with cured salmon and pickled clams.

Next, white crab meat and yoghurt

and, his previously forgotten, brown crab butter.

He finishes with sea herbs...

-How are you doing for time?

-I'm ready to go.

..and a watercress and oyster puree

and places his plates on miniature sandbags.

-Got everything? Yes? Sure?

-Yeah, I think so.

Everything is preserved, isn't it?

It is essentially a restaurant dish, resting on two sandbags.

My only concern was, do they know it's been preserved

and is the brief strong enough on that dish?

The salmon is absolutely delicious.

The quality of the cooking is very good.

Molly, what do you think? Is this grand enough for such a special occasion?

I'm not totally sure about the special banquet.

It's not special or unusual, or nostalgic or whatever.

Salmon was a luxury item, king of the sea.

You know, I treat it with a bit of respect. It's worthy of a banquet.

What was the fish situation during the war?

We had very little of it. It was very, very precious.

On one occasion, I was lucky enough to get a smoked haddock

and so I promptly gave a dinner party.

When I went to get it out of the oven,

the whole thing slid quietly onto the floor.

THEY LAUGH

That was real drama, I can tell you.

I promptly spooned it all back onto the plate and we jolly well ate it.

There was nothing else to eat!

This is a dish of quiet and civilised pleasures.

What we actually need is a dish of explosive pleasures.

We need a bit of drama!

The judges might just get their wish with Colin's barbecue your own fish course.

Colin, I see you're working the langoustines there.

-Cracking dish!

-Oh, don't remind me, what a nightmare.

I couldn't believe it.

During the week, Colin's unique presently From War To Peace

beach scene with shellfish savarin, squid ink pasta

and do-it-yourself barbecue langoustine couldn't stand the heat.

EXPLOSION BLEEP.

Oh!

I'm putting a bit of tinfoil in the bottom to try make it less direct.

-It certainly is a cracking pot.

-A cracking pot.

Colin's attempting to show how the Normandy beaches,

once the scene of war, are now a place of peace.

OK, here we go.

And to ensure today is not a repeat performance,

he's testing his specially designed plinth with the tinfoil barrier.

So, obviously, the big question is if it cracks this time...

Yeah, I just get my car keys and go, really.

With his terracotta plinth holding,

Colin begins his dish with langoustine powder, then shrimps,

dried seaweed, shrimp crackers and nasturtium flowers.

He adds raw langoustine skewers, ready for the barbecue

and unmoulds his delicate shellfish mousse...

Only fooling you!

..hidden in squid ink pasta.

OK.

Thank you.

-Well done.

-Whoo!

-Oh!

-Wow!

My word, yes. I can feel the heat coming off it.

It looks like a beach, doesn't it?

A bit of interactive cooking here.

-I think you leave it on there for a little while.

-Right.

I think this will be great fun for a banquet.

"Fun" is the operative word, isn't it?

I love the squid ink linguine.

If they cook the langoustine like Phil did,

-he said it was the best thing he had ever put in his mouth.

-There you go.

I think my langoustine is perfectly cooked.

Mm...

Quite what this has to do with the war, I don't know.

Seashore...

I don't know, but I like it.

Do think the judges are going to get the idea of it?

I would be very disappointed if they didn't.

It's very obvious, this is a beach.

I think it's sensational, I love it.

Do think he could do this for the banquet?

I would certainly like to give him the opportunity.

I think this is absolutely delicious.

I think the presentation is extremely clever

and I really can't fault it in any way.

At the halfway point, while the chefs are busy

with their main courses, the judges are considering their scores.

I'm very pleasantly surprised by today's food so far.

Have you enjoyed your morning, Molly?

I've enjoyed it tremendously and it's totally new to me.

I have no bias in any direction except, that on the whole,

I greatly prefer Paul's first dish,

very attractive and extremely good.

I think it's neck and neck.

It will be all up to this afternoon.

The competition is still wide open.

They will be fighting right down to the very last mouthful.

Are you up for some more?

I think, given a slight delay...

And a gin and tonic.

And a gin and tonic, then I'll be ready for anything!

-So you've changed it to a larger pie.

-A large pie.

Just so...

Phil reckons it'll be better and more enjoyable.

Colin's main course is first up.

He's looking for top marks for his bigger and, hopefully better,

posh ox cheek and vegetable pie

with beef fillet, baby vegetables and polenta on the side.

A dish of two parts, dedicated to his granddad,

who was a ship's stoker on D-Day and a brilliant pie maker.

It scored only seven during the week.

This was my weakest course.

I just hope it is an improvement,

rather than a downward spiral, really.

Former champion Colin can't afford to slip up

if he wants to cook for the World War II veterans.

-Hello.

-Hello.

Like fourth judge Molly at the banquet.

You've really given us a great treat this morning,

you have been working very hard, both of you.

Tell me what you would doing in the war?

We were taking the aircraft from the factories,

delivering them to the squadrons.

-Were you flying them?

-Yes, I was.

-Really?

-I learnt to fly when I was 16,

got my licence when I was 17.

When you joined up to be a pilot, did you know that you would be doing something like this,

or did you join because there was a war going on and you wanted to contribute?

Everybody in England was contributing at that time

because, you know, we all knew we had got our backs to the wall.

Everyone was doing the maximum they could.

-Good luck to you both.

-A pleasure to meet you.

-Enjoy the rest of your day.

-Thank you so much.

With his posh pie out of the oven,

Colin gets the accompanying beef fillet in to fry.

He prepares his baby vegetables and places both onto plates

with a smear of polenta, ready to serve alongside his ox cheek pie.

And there's a new addition, his grandfather's service sheet.

OK, so we're going to hand out one of these with each plate.

Oh!

PRUE CHUCKLES

Good, God!

It looks like a volcano, sprayed in green.

What have we got here?

This must be the actual record of Colin's grandfather, isn't it?

In the Navy.

Last week when I had to put my main course up, there was nothing to tell the story.

So I've actually got my granddad's war records, a picture of him...

It's really touching.

He was on the Tokyo II on the English Channel during D-Day.

And Colin's put on the back, one of my memories of my granddad

was he was a very good pie maker, so we've got a pie here.

I do think it is absolutely splendid.

It's a lovely looking thing, isn't it?

-Look inside that.

-A proper pie. I don't think it's been seasoned enough.

It's been seasoned enough, the pastry is slightly undercooked.

I think the fillet is a bit bland and I think why is that there?

You know, I think it is half an idea.

I think it is but I am enjoying them both.

Do think they will get the fact you are using polenta,

-an Italian ingredient?

-I didn't want the recipes to be so strictly British products.

The polenta just doesn't seem appropriate to me.

I don't see this as a banquet dish at all, myself, but what do you think, Molly?

It's really as though we have got two meals here.

Which would you prefer to eat,

the pie or beef and veg?

I would sooner have the fillet.

I would sooner have the pie.

THEY LAUGH

Isn't it lucky we're all different!

THEY LAUGH

Paul's main course is up next, a dish that scored

an incredible ten points from veteran Phil Howard during the week.

So, Paul, this is your number ten.

This is your highest scoring.

-Perfect dish.

-I couldn't believe the perfect ten.

If I can just execute it the same as earlier in the week - fantastic.

His blackout beef, with caramelised rib eye,

deep-fried bone marrow, ox heart and potatoes in beer

is inspired by The Blitz and has a very special presentation.

Colin, do you have a spare second?

Any chance you could light my lantern?

Yeah, of course I'll light your lantern.

Paul starts his plate with carrot puree...

..adds braised rib cap,

potato balls, deep-fried bone marrow, under a miniature cloche,

his caramelised rib eye, and finishes with an injection of smoke.

Very good. Very good.

Oh!

Thank you, kindly.

-That's a bit of theatre.

-Oh, a little cloche.

They're certainly rationing the beer!

Thank you.

Oh! That is... This dish is going through! I don't care!

Do you think they will enjoy all the elements of the lantern,

the beer and the little cloche, with the smoke underneath?

I need to get some theatrics into my dish.

# Dah, dah-dah-dah! #

Ah! And there is a bit of smoke there.

I quite like the, sort of, black theme.

You have got the blackout, the black stout and the blackened beef.

I think the rib is absolutely fantastic. It's beautifully cooked.

I love the flavour of heart. We never get heart. Hardly ever.

I'm just wondering, does the marrow need to be smoked?

He probably did it for the drama.

-Do you think it's too smoky?

-I wanted to get a smoky element in,

to replicate the, kind of, smoky environment during The Blitz.

-Molly, do you remember The Blitz?

-Yes, I do. An awful lot of people

really did show their mettle in that time.

The carrot puree is absolutely spot on.

I don't think carrots need pureeing. I think they are so good, anyway.

I notice, the best thing about all your ideas, Molly, is the fact that

-they have silenced Oliver completely.

-Well, this is true, actually,

because every time I open my mouth and then I ask Molly, she says

the complete opposite to me and then I think," Molly's right!"

Colin's last chance to impress is his dessert, a dish he scored

a ten for during the week. But his experience last year

taught him not to take anything for granted.

Paul, I know, all too well.

I got a ten in my regional. Perfect in the judges' chamber.

I went to the finals and the last time I served it,

it wasn't half as good as it should have been. So disappointing.

Colin is serving a complex disc, with four layers of chocolate,

peanut, praline and raspberry, with parsnip ice cream cone on the side.

It's a homage to the Dickin Medal, awarded to outstanding animals

who served during the war, displayed on a bed of remembrance poppies.

With his edible transfers in place,

Colin places his chocolate Dickin Medal, pipes parsnip ice cream

into miniature cones and delivers his dessert to the pass.

Thank you.

-Next time you see that may be at the banquet.

-Ha-ha-ha!

Good Lord!

"PDSA, for gallantry. We also serve."

I think this is about the Dickin Medal,

given to animals, for gallantry. The first message

with news of the Normandy landings was brought by a pigeon.

-Will the judges will see the story you're trying to tell?

-Absolutely.

With that one, I have a lot of confidence.

-I think they're going to see it

-straight away. Brilliantly clever.

I do, too. And there we go. I think we've got... Yes!

Lift off.

A very, very nice touch.

This is tremendous.

Molly, are you matroning your way quietly through that?

I am, indeed, and I think... I don't want to stop.

Do you think this is something that your fellow veterans would be

-happy to tuck into?

-I'm sure they would.

I'm genuinely a bit worried about the... Poppies make me feel sad

and I feel the guests will have

that reaction.

I don't think they'll feel sad for long.

LAUGHTER

You might be right, Molly.

I still have a little bit of mine left. I notice you've finished.

-You obviously didn't like it(!)

-I've enjoyed every mouthful of it.

-Banquet material?

-Totally.

Paul's dessert is last to the pass.

A deconstructed Normandy

pear tart, with almond sponge, ice cream and tuille,

chamomile syrup and compressed pears.

Phil Howard wasn't overly convinced by its modern presentation,

but awarded it a strong eight and Paul's sticking to his guns.

So, you're still going to deconstruct it?

For me, I think this way here is a modern interpretation.

I'm happy with the dish.

It's one opinion.

Yeah, absolutely.

He starts his plate with a bed of crumble, adds pear puree,

almond sponge, compressed pears, chamomile syrup,

his toasted almond ice cream

and, finally, his almond tuille.

Done. Thank you very much.

Thank you very much.

Mmm. What have we got? There is a bit of crumble in there

and there is some sponge and there is some crispy tuille, of some sort.

Mmm. Yummy. And pear,

and pear puree and almond ice cream.

This eats very well. The flavours are great on it, aren't they?

So, the chamomile that you used on the dessert,

Phil said it was very subtle. Do you think you've had to boost it?

I've kept it subtle. It's just there

to give a nice little roundness to the dish.

This is a gentle, mild, well-mannered...

-Rather appealing, actually...

-Me, too. I find it appealing.

-..at the end of the meal.

-I think you are right.

Very gentle flavours which work really well together.

You can't fail if you put these ingredients together.

-And he hasn't.

-You could have gone off and bought a piece of cake,

-tinned pear, erm...

-Now, come on, Prue, that is...

..some ice cream and put it together and it would have been just as nice.

No, that's absolute nonsense.

I love Normandy pear tarts and I think what he has done is taken

a classic dish and he's made it better.

-It's a bit disappointing.

-I knew you were going to say that.

I think it's the sort of thing one might produce for the children.

-Good for you!

-Ooh! That is cruel, Molly!

I think we are beaten, Matthew.

All right, Molly. All right, Molly. I give in, I give in!

So...it's all over.

SIGHS

It's numbing not knowing what the scores are going to be.

Well, I think this is one of the days when we have had both chefs

really trying to stick to the brief, digging into their own archives

and then translating it, in some way, onto the dish.

Both chefs have had wonderful stories to tell.

There are some dishes which are, unquestionably,

ripe for the final banquet.

Have you marked any particularly high ones?

I have given two tens and two nines today.

I have given a six twice.

I'm afraid I gave six three times.

-And six is not a very low score.

-Oh, yes?!

-You two are getting soft.

We're looking for something very special, so you have

to be very critical of everything.

Welcome, chefs. How are you feeling?

-Relieved.

-Yeah. Exhausted.

Well, listen, we have had a great day.

The fact that both of you had grandparents in the war

played a tremendous part in the dishes.

The lowest scores today were sixes and, I have to tell you,

that most of those sixes were given out by the ladies either side of me.

But I am sure you are dying to find out

which chef is going forward to the finals.

The chef going forward to represent the North East is...

..Colin. Well done!

-Oh, dear me!

-Well done.

You seem very relieved.

Yeah, very relieved, indeed!

I can tell you, it was your chocolate pudding that won the day.

-It was just oozing with pleasure. I gave it a ten.

-I gave it ten, too.

I thought it was sheer magic.

And this mean madam gave it a nine!

It's OK! A nine from you is perfectly acceptable!

Paul, commiserations. How do you feel?

Yeah, obviously disappointed. I was hoping to represent the North East,

but if one can only go forward, I'm happy that Colin's the man to do it.

Your starter was dish of the day.

I give it a nine. It had the most wonderful depth of flavour.

-Anything to say, Molly?

-I've enjoyed so much meeting you both

-and I have had a simply splendid day.

-Thank you.

I think Colin was a very relieved man.

If he hadn't performed, he would have been absolutely devastated.

Oh! Do you know what, it was very close.

I am genuinely so excited.

Oh, brilliant news. Love it! Love it, love it, love it!

Well done.

'Yeah, disappointed.'

Colin, I'm sure, will fly the flag for the North East.

-Here's to our grandads.

-And may their memories live on.

-Very good.