Spain Hairy Bikers' Bakeation

By now, you've realised there are two things we love in this world.

Biking and baking.

So, we've decided to combine them.

In an epic 5,000-mile Bakeation.

-Look at that!

-Oh, wow!

Europe has been amazing to us.

I can't believe we started in Norway seven weeks ago, dude.

'Yeah. We've done a few miles. The Low Countries, Germany...

..Eastern Europe, Austria, Italy and France.

Vive la baguette!

C'est magnifique!

And now Spain for our grand finale.

It's a biggie, and I'm expecting us to go out with a bang.

It's amazing to think by the end of this one, we'll be going home.

We'll have met some of the world's very best bakers,

and learnt a thing or two.

So sit back and relax.

It's time for the last leg of our spectacular...

Spain, garden of Europe.

One of Britain's favourite holiday destinations.

With plenty of fiestas, tapas and baking delicacies,

it's perfect for our Bakeation finale.

We're in northern Spain, travelling through

the Basque, Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia regions.

To arrive in Santiago de Compostela

in time for the biggest fiesta of the year the Festival of St James.

With 500 miles to go, we'd better start planning our Iberian adventure.

# So, we're here We've gone off to sunny Spain

# But it's not a little bit scorchio. #

-No, it's not scorchio at all.

-It's belting it down. Look at that!

This part of Spain, the North Atlantic,

it's not the arid Spain you see in the holiday photos.

Or your spaghetti westerns for that! Oh, no. We're in the wet bit!

But St Sebastian is a gastronomic paradise.

There are more Michelin-starred restaurants here than you can shake a stick at.

They've got such a great standard of food.

I can't wait to try their tapas.

Dave, they're called pinchos here, and, man, they're much bigger.

And as we are in the Basque country, I've always wanted to see Bilbao.

Bilbao is there. It's a bit like Newcastle, but without Stotties.

And we're going to make some bread a pan rustico.

We're going to do it differently, we're going to make a ferment.

We're going to start the bread off here,

leave it for 24 hours and finish the bread off in Bilbao.

From there, we'll be leaving the Basque country

-for the Asturias region.

-In the mountains around Oviedo,

we've heard they make bread with spelt flour.

Then we head down to the Celtic coast, to Galicia.

There, the seafood is fantastic.

And guess what? They still believe in magic.

And then from there, we come inland to Santiago de Compostela.

Oui. Which is why we have the scallop shells.

These scallop shells depict the way of St James, the pilgrimage route...

..that they call El Camino.

'El Camino de Santiago, to be exact.'

'Because Santiago is St James in Spanish. It makes sense, no?'

Now the grooves in a scallop shell

symbolise the routes that pilgrims take from all over the world.

From wherever they start off from,

they end up in one place and that one place is Santiago de Compostela.

Like all these pilgrimages,

there is a crock of gold at the end of the rainbow.

It's not a load of old relics,

it's a big party in Santiago de Compostela.

They've got fireworks and, as luck would have it,

it's Galicia's National Day.

# Hey, party, party! #

SIMON HUMS Y VIVA ESPANA

# Y viva Espana! #

'The city of San Sebastian -

'or Donostia as they call it in Basque -

'is a bastion of local culture.

'It's a beauty.

'You can see why it's a favourite holiday destination for the Spaniards.

'And you know what, Dave? Even with my helmet on,

'I can smell the Iberian flavours.

'Peppers, onions, tomatoes.

'And paprika, mate. That's what Spain is all about.

'So how about checking out a regional speciality like their pinchos?

'You mean tapas?'

'No, pinchos. They're tapas but a bit more extravagant.'

'Oh, it sounds good to me.'

'The Munto restaurant in San Sebastian

'is famous for the large variety it has to offer.'

'Cor! Sandwiches, tartlets, ham, fish, octopus.

'What a choice!'

-It's God's savoury pick and mix, isn't it?

-Look at it, man!

Everything's with bread, interestingly.

-Yeah. Every pinchos. So a PINCHos of this, a PINCHos of that.

-Oh!

Kitchen?

Ander, Munto's own pinchos chef, is opening his kitchen to us.

-This is very good pincho.

-Very good pinchos, man.

-It's very light.

'He prepares around 40 different pinchos every day.'

-Shall we do one of those? Make one of those?

-Yes.

-OK.

'Kingy, you're making not a sausage roll, but a chorizo roll.'

'Oh, man! Can you imagine the flavour that's going to go into that puff pastry?'

I love pinchos. You come into a bar, as far as the eye can see,

it's just like this - an absolute display of gorgeous finger food.

You take what you want and you go to the till,

and they charge you, you know, for what you have.

Pinchos is the word for the cocktail stick that holds it all together.

-It's good?

-Oh, man.

-Yeah.

-It's mega.

-Yes?

-Mm. Look at that. Bacon and egg, Basque style.

-Oh!

With a sausage roll starter.

'Ander designs his own recipes,

'which need to keep the customers fed from dawn till dusk.

'These pinchos show that fast food can be fresh and beautifully made.'

Oh, look. How beautiful is that? Look at that.

I know. I think this is enough.

The temptation with pinchos is you go mad.

But you can come back and have more. We'll get these counted,

and then she just scratches it down on a tab.

-It's brilliant.

-It's chilled, it's good.

Cinco.

-Uno, dos, tres, cuatro, cinco, seis.

-Seis.

-Seis.

'And just like fish and chips back home,

-'pinchos are a firm favourite.

-Everybody loves them.'

'Kingy, fast food never tasted so good.

'Yeah. But in my book, slow food still wins the day.

'And one thing we've learnt over the last seven weeks

'is that good bread takes time.

'If we want to bake a fantastic rustic bread,

'with great flavour and texture tomorrow...

'..we need to find a spot to do a little prep today.'

The Spanish are great lovers of bread.

One of their favourites is the pan rustico.

It's more sophisticated and tasty than your average white loaf.

He's not wrong, you know.

Putting into play everything we've learned on this trip so far

that fermentation of the bread, and the longer the fermentation,

the better the bread, we're showing you how to do one with a ferment.

Now, pay attention.

The ferment is a mix of water, yeast and flour,

which is left to ferment, hence the name.

It's the addition of the ferment,

that makes the pan rustico so special.

First we kick start the yeast using sugar and warm water.

Make sure that the water temperature is tepid

and not hot, because this will kill the yeast.

-What shall we go and do now?

-Go and have a look at the sea.

'Time and tide wait for no man.

-'And us, we've got to wait for our yeast.

-And you know what, Dave?

-'It's time that will make this bread amazing.

-Yes.

'And it's what will give the pan rustico extra flavour, texture

-'and great keeping properties.

-Oh, yes.'

Aah! Dr Frankenstein, we've created life.

FIENDISH LAUGHTER

We pour that into 125 grams of strong bread flour,

and give it a whizz.

Now, we're looking for a batter consistency, not a dough. OK?

Now this batter, we leave this for 24 hours to ferment.

It's going to bubble up, it's going to rise, it's going to look a bit of a mess.

But the flavour will all be there, developed in that ferment.

When we've got that, we use that to make the bread.

-I think that's it.

-What we're going to do is wrap this up in clingfilm

and put it in the top box on the bike, come back tomorrow

and bake our bread with this.

And it will be a wonderful, wonderful tasting loaf.

'As we're waiting for our ferment to mature over the next 24 hours,

-'we can't bake yet.

-No.

'But we can enjoy ourselves in other ways. Let's get back to the hotel.

'We've got a real culinary adventure ahead of us tonight...

'..visiting a Txokos.'

-Tonight!

-Well, it's a real privilege, isn't it?

It's kind of like the San Sebastian's secret society.

Yes. The gastronomic delights

that this fabulous, vibrant city has got to offer.

And we're off to have a little bit of an investigate.

Hola!

'We're off to eat in a Txokos, which is a Basque gastronomy society.

'They are clubs where locals celebrate their regional cuisine

'by cooking and eating together.

'San Sebastian is the birthplace of the Txokos,

'which means "cosy corner" in Basque.

'You find them all over the Basque region.

'But, of course, you've got to be invited.'

-Pleased to meet you.

-Hi, I'm Si. Nice to meet you.

-Nice to meet you.

-Wow!

I get the feeling we're going to get

-some of the best Basque food we've ever had.

-Yeah, of course.

Here, we are going to have a dinner based on fish, cod fish.

-Ah, fish.

-Fabulous.

'All of these people may be home cooks...

'..but their kitchen is kitted out like a professional restaurant.'

It's fantastic.

Tonight, they're cooking cocochas de bacalao -

cod neck cooked in a cod skin sauce. Mmm!

-The neck of the fish or the cheeks?

-The neck.

Because in fish, normally, it's the best part,

because it's like a good taste and you don't have to bite. OK.

-It just melts away in your mouth?

-Yeah.

-OK.

SHE SPEAKS IN SPANISH

From the cheek, OK. And she has to move it all the time.

Because if she doesn't, the sauce doesn't work, you see.

Tell me that she hasn't done that for a very long time. Look at that!

THEY ALL LAUGH

To go with it, they're frying some green chillies.

-Oh, man, they're good.

-They're superb.

I've never had a plate of deep-fried chillies.

They're gentle, they're sweet.

By God, they're good.

They're also preparing Chipirones en su Tinta,

squid simmered in its own ink, hence the colour.

Muy bien, eh? Oh, hey!

That is superb. Chef?

It's squid, cooked in its own ink.

But it tastes so rich and meaty, it's unbelievable.

We had this in Venice, but this is better.

Absolutely fantastic.

I can't wait to sit down and eat this.

'Started in 1870, the Txokos tradition has survived the turmoils of Spanish history.'

'Under Franco, they were the only places Basque people could meet

'and freely celebrate their culture.'

'And today, it's the food that still brings people together.

'The cooking is of the highest standard.'

'So good, that in fact,

'local restaurants often use them as inspiration.

'Look at that pan rustico -

'it's the same as the one our ferment's destined for tomorrow.

'On every table, bread is the cornerstone of a good Spanish meal.'

I've never had squid that good. This is as rich as a meat stock.

It is, Dave, yeah. Absolutely unbelievable.

'And now for the famous cod neck.'

It's wonderful. It would be 30 euros a portion in London.

Fantastico. Si! Oh!

IN SPANISH:

THEY ALL LAUGH

Oh, that's good.

SHE SINGS IN SPANISH

EVERYONE JOINS IN

'Josean and his friends meet regularly in their Txokos,

'not only to eat...

'..but also to make sure that their Basque culture stays alive.'

ALL: Hey!

-Muchas gracias.

-Muchas gracias.

Bye!

'Our second day in Spain,

'and, unfortunately, the weather's not improving.

'But no matter.

'Ahead of us is the largest of the Basque cities, Bilbao.'

'It's only a short 70-mile ride from San Sebastian.

-'Bilbao!

-More like drenched Bilbao.

'It rains so much here, we should have gone further south.'

'Oh, will you stop moaning! It makes us feel quite a home.'

'Today, we're finally baking the pan rustico.'

'Staple of Spanish home baking, just like grandma makes.'

Hola!

Welcome to the Hairy Bikers' school of Spanish rustico bread baking.

Now, we should have been cooking this beautiful pan rustico

in an apricot orchard overlooking the beautiful city of Bilbao.

However...

..it's totally whazzing it down.

So we've knocked at the doors of a local catering college -

a very fine one -

and asked if we could borrow a kitchen. They very kindly said yes.

-That's why we're here.

-Yes, it is.

-POSH:

-We're going to talk about pan rustico.

-Yes, we are.

-I feel official now.

-Oh, do you?

-I do.

-Do you do-do?

-Should we have teachers?

-Yes. Yes.

-Ow! That hurt!

-Sorry!

Now the bread has flavour and texture

because a ferment, or a starter was used.

Remember, we got that going in San Sebastian.

What we need to do is, because we want this HOLEY bread,

holey as in terms of texture, not spirituality,

we need some more yeast and water.

'As usual, first job is to get the yeast going.'

So we're using strong white bread flour.

And the reason that we're sieving it -

because, as you well know, there's some breads we don't -

is just to get a bit more air into it.

And again, to give it more flavour and texture,

we're mixing in some rye flour.

Now, the rye flour here is very coarse-textured,

and that rye is going to give it great flavour.

And to that two-flour mix, we're going to add a teaspoon of salt.

Just make sure that that rye flour is evenly distributed

through that strong white bread flour.

Now the first thing to do is to put in the ferment.

Now, this started to work yesterday, and this is where all the flavour,

the maturity of the bread is.

-That smells of home-brew.

-Yes, it does.

-That's fermentation.

It's like living honeycomb.

That's what gives us the flavour, the stretch, the texture,

and the keeping properties of this lovely bread.

And this is the yeast that we set working about five minutes ago.

As you can see, it's alive - it's got a scum on the top.

You might wonder why we're using two lots of yeast.

The first lot in the ferment was to develop the flavour,

and this is to kick-start it even more,

because we want that open-textured, almost tear-and-share bread.

Pop that in.

And then to that, we add one tablespoon of good olive oil.

Most breads contain some kind of fat, like Mediterranean bread -

Spanish, Italian - it's generally olive oil.

It works really well. The oil in the bread helps preserve it.

And all we now do is mix to form a dough.

This is quite a wet dough.

Remember what we've learnt from the bakers all along,

that the moister the dough, generally the better the bread.

Get your hands in it at this point.

We need to knead it for about ten minutes,

until it becomes smooth and elastic.

That'll mean you've released the gluten,

and that is what gives you bread, as opposed to cake.

Now if you've got a food mixer with a dough hook, it's dead easy.

If you've got a Geordie with attitude, it's even easier still.

Ha-hey! Go on!

-DAVE CACKLES

-Sucker!

Hold on, why aren't we using a machine and a dough hook?

DAVE CHUCKLES

-See that shelf?

-Yes, I have.

-That's why I'm wondering.

-Ha ha! Look at that, eh? Look at that.

-I only do this because we're outside normally.

-Yeah, I know.

-We blew it, haven't we?

-Yeah.

In fact, we SHOULD have used a machine.

Oh, there's nowt like it.

-I like the old fashioned way. It's pan rustico, man.

-Oh, aye.

-The old-fashioned is always good. Like rickets.

-Yeah.

Rickets and poverty, you know?

Done!

Look! Look at the difference.

-It's really, really elastic.

-Yeah.

And that's what we're looking for.

Slap it in. The usual caper.

Put in a draught-free place, until it's doubled in size.

That could be overnight, that could be 45 minutes.

The longer you leave it, the better the bread.

That is what you call doubled in size.

OK. So we want to pull it. OK?

And you just fold it.

And you want to do that process three or four times.

You don't need to be too gentle with it.

Now we're going to shape this.

Let's go for a kind of a rustic Spanish torpedo.

Remember in France when we made the baguettes? The slashing.

You know, one, two, three.

Now we leave that for ANOTHER hour,

until this has doubled in size.

Wa-hey!

Do you know what?

Pan rustico, it makes me want to get my castanets out.

CASTANETS CLICK

Wa-hey! Here we go. Ho-ho!

-Oh, look at that!

-Look at that.

The test.

When it sounds hollow like a drum, it's cooked.

-Perfect. Oh, a nice crust.

-It is, isn't it?

-Yeah.

That just needs to cool now,

and we'll have wonderful, wonderful bread.

At last, the rain has stopped and the mist has lifted.

For the first time, we can see Bilbao.

What a beautiful city.

We should go and take a look at it.

'Yeah, and how about seeing it from a different perspective?'

-Oh! Nice one, Kingy!

-It's good, isn't it?

Oh, man! You see this is the sort of perspective I had in mind, dude.

Quite right, it's brilliant.

And, we've got the bread, some jamon and some tomatoes.

-Ah!

-Oh, that's nice, man.

-That's beautiful bread.

'The ferment has really made a difference.

'What a wonderful aroma.'

-The flavour's there.

-Mm.

-An open, chewy texture.

I tell you what, this mix between old and new

does quite remind me of Newcastle, you know.

The only thing that reminds me of Newcastle is the weather -

it's grey and it's drizzly.

I mean, you've got the Guggenheim Museum here.

-We've got the Baltic in Newcastle.

-You've got beautiful, exotic women.

-Have you ever been down the quayside on a Saturday night?

-We've got empanadas.

-We've got Scotties in Newcastle.

-Bilbao has the most amazing seafood.

We've got amazing seafood in Newcastle -

North Shields Fish Quay.

I didn't think it'd rain like this in Spain.

It does in Newcastle.

'Time to hit the road.

'The party in Santiago won't wait for us.'

'We're leaving the stunning city of Bilbao,

'and heading into the mountainous region of Asturias.

'Our destination is Mier.

'It's on the edge of the Picos de Europa, the European Peaks,

'so called because they were the first sight of Europe

'for ships arriving from the Americas.'

'We may have left the Basque country,

'but we're not empty-handed, are we, Dave?'

'No, Kingy. Basque cuisine is so good,

'that it's spread over the world.

'It doesn't matter where you are,

'you can always have a bit of Basque.'

'Mate, let's go Basque mad and bake a Basque chicken pie,

'packed with all those Spanish flavours we know and love.'

We've never had the best of the weather in the Basque country,

-but are we downhearted?

-We are certainly not, David.

-We have left the Basque country and now we're in Asturias.

-Yes, yes.

It's where the mountains meet the sea in a rugged melange.

A rugged melange?

-A rugged melange.

-A rugged melange, we'll have you know.

But we've brought a little piece of the Basque country

with us to Asturias.

And the reason for that is that we love the Basque country.

We love the food, we love the people,

and we love the hats,

which is why we're just about to do a cookery with our hats on.

But anyway, the Basque chicken pie.

-No, no, leave it, I love it.

-Ah, ha ha!

'First in, olive oil.'

Do you know what I love about this dish, Kingy? It's colourful.

When food has colour, it means it's got more vitamins

and it's better for you, and it's full of taste as well.

Here, hold on. That's not necessarily true.

-M&Ms, they're not healthy.

-But that's artificial colouring.

This is natural, this is what God gave us.

Stick your onion in the pan. Sweat it down.

Coincidentally, the colours of the vegetables

that go into the piperade are the colours of the Basque flag.

THE BASQUE NATIONAL ANTHEM PLAYS

'Piperade is an essential of Basque cuisine,

'simply a saute of onions, peppers and tomatoes.'

Now, while Dave's chopping the colours of his Basque flag,

these are chicken thighs, boned, chopped and skinned.

You put them into a bag, because it's that old trick again,

we season it with some salt, a good pinch of pepper.

And to thicken the sauce, what we need is a tablespoon of flour,

and about two teaspoons full of smoked paprika.

'Christopher Columbus is credited by many

'for bringing back paprika from his second trip to the New World.

'Like much of Europe, the Spanish love their paprika, or pimento.

'But the Spanish variety is slightly less spicy and more smoky.

'Like the French with the baguette,

'the Spanish take their paprika really seriously.

'The quality is controlled by law.'

There we are, look at that. How lovely is that?

Smoked paprika is a fantastic product

because it not only colours and flavours the dish with paprika,

the smokiness will give the pie, the chicken or whatever you do,

a wonderful kind of barbecued flavour.

There's one red pepper, one green pepper.

We pop those into the onion and start to sweat the whole lot down.

'This is a robust rustic pie,

'so to go with the chicken, we're also using chunks of chorizo.

'And guess what?

'Chorizo is full of paprika as well.

'It's tasty, it's meaty and we love it.'

The onion's translucent, the peppers have started to change colour.

So we need to flavour that

with four sprigs of thyme and two bay leaves.

'To pump up the flavour even more, we're adding fresh garlic.

'But only once everything else has started cooking.

'The less you cook the garlic, the stronger it will taste.'

-Oh, man! The smell of it's fantastic.

-It is, isn't it?

-Absolutely fantastic. Let's get them tomatoes in, mate.

-Yep.

Now, I've got ahead with these tomatoes.

What we've done is, they need to be peeled.

To peel them, you score them, just across the base,

blanch them for about 30 seconds, plunge them into cold water

because you don't want boiled tomatoes,

then the skin will pop off as easy as this.

Do you know what's nice about this?

It's a really economical dish.

It's one way of making four chicken thighs, kind of feed the family.

Right. While the filling's doing, the pastry.

Flour. To that, one teaspoon of baking powder,

to just give it a bit of lift.

And a teaspoon of salt.

So the baking powder,

what'll happen is that it'll thicken the crust on it,

because it'll rise slightly and give it some texture,

and a little bit of a bite.

Now to the dry goods, we've got some butter.

I mean, this is a short pastry.

You just pop the butter in, and rub it till it goes to crumbs.

And to make it even richer, one egg yolk.

Now to finally make the pastry we add water, until it becomes pastry.

We're not going to be too pedantic about how much water to put in.

Just put enough in until it holds together,

-to make a ball of pastry.

-He's not wrong.

-It's not rocket science.

-No, it's not.

Now you could use this pastry as it is,

but it's going to be easier to handle if you let the pastry

rest for a while. About half an hour.

-Wor!

-Lovely.

Now, this filling needs to cool.

If we try and put pastry on top of that, it's going to disintegrate,

because obviously the butter's going to melt.

So just let that chill.

'The Basque piperade is in loads of other recipes.

'Another favourite pie features it,

'along with leftover chicken topped with mashed potato.'

'Like our shepherd's pie,

'but still with plenty of the Spanish flavour we love.'

-Nice that.

-That's a good chicken that you know.

-Well, all right.

And there's its little egg. You see?

Pop that into an oven and bake it until the pastry is golden.

Because, remember, the filling's already cooked.

-Three!

-Five.

-Five?! What are you...? Cannae you count or what?

-Four then.

-That was three.

-Come on. Let's see you do better.

Four, see if you can beat four. One, two, three.

-Two!

-That was never two!

THEY LAUGH

Come on, Frank Spencer!

-Look at this. Look at this.

-Ooh, Betty!

One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight! Ah ha!

Oh, that was genius!

-Let's get this pie out the oven, Dave.

-Yep. Look at that.

Fill it up.

All the colours of an Iberian sunset.

Oh, yeah. Nice.

The chorizo's lovely.

-That paprika goes through it really nicely, doesn't it?

-Mm.

Mmm.

It's tasty, it's colourful and it's just a little bit rugged.

Yeah.

'As always, the recipe for our Basque chicken pie,

'and all the other dishes we're baking, are on the website.

'We're off again.

'With only three days to go before the big firework party

'for the Feast of St James, we need to get a move on.

'Yep, it's back on El Camino towards Oviedo,

'capital city of the Asturias region.

'And what a ride, going through more canyons and mountain ranges.

'By the time we reach Oviedo,

'we'll have done more than half of our ride through Spain.

'Fireworks, here we come!'

'Mate, it's day four, and it's our busiest day in Spain.

-'Not only are we meeting...

-..and baking with...

'..a top local baker, or bakeress, should I say...

'..but we've also been invited to a traditional Galician evening.

'And that's in a whole different region.

'Better get a move on then.

'First, we've got to go shopping for tomorrow's empanada bake.

'Like in much of Europe, shops are often closed here on Sundays.'

-What a great market!

-Isn't it?

-Woohoo!

It's tempting just to dive in and buy, isn't it?

Scallions the size of shillelaghs.

'To cook tomorrow, we need...

'..some scallops, a couple of fantastic fish,

'and some great local ham.

'Mate, do you fancy some mushrooms as well?

'Well, these king oyster ones are very tempting,

'and they're pretty hard to find back home.'

-Gracias.

-Gracias.

-Arrivederci.

-Hasta luego.

' "Arrivederci"?!

'We left Italy weeks ago, dude.'

Kingy, look!

Shall we treat ourselves to a bag of razor clams?

-Aye, cos...

-Put the clams in.

-Go on.

-Keep them alive.

-Ooh, that one.

-Yeah.

-This one?

Una choppa.

It doesn't smell of fish, cos it's fresh.

Don't go for the one with cloudy eyes who drinks all the time,

go for the one the clear eye and white irises.

Look into the eyes, not around the eyes, into the eyes.

If it gleams back and it practically winks at you,

then it'll taste yummy.

It's funny, I love hake, and I remember when I was a kid,

we used to eat so much of it in Britain.

-Yeah.

-For some reason now, it's scarce.

But it's a really good, solid white fish.

If you like cod, you like haddock, you're going to like hake.

It's kind of like sea bass, but it's half the price.

Cracking.

Muchas gracias.

-Gracias.

-Gracias.

-Hasta luego.

-Hasta luego.

-Hasta luego.

'Shopping done, let's crack on.'

'Hold up, son.

'The shopping's made me hungry, and there are some local treats here

'that we need to try before we hit the road.'

'You know, in some cities, the streets are paved with gold.

'But in Oviedo, it's cider.'

'So let's try it, along with the local delicacy, percebes.

'Or goose barnacles to you and me.'

'Pouring the flat cider from such a height

'is meant to give it a sparkling taste.'

Salut! It's very flat.

-It's got a bit of a scrumpy vibe to it.

-Oo-arr!

There's a bit...it's acid. There's an acidic... It's nice...

Mmm.

..if you like that sort of thing.

Oh! Gracias.

-WAITER SPEAKS SPANISH

-Si, si, si.

'Goose barnacles are a real delicacy,

'and people risk their lives to harvest them

'from the foot of sea-lashed cliffs.'

'And that's reflected in the price - over £20 per 100 grams.

'It's like being back in Norway!'

All right, Kingy?

-They're really nice, these, man.

-God, that's sweet.

It is sweet, it's like... It is an odd cross between...

Lobster, really good crab...

-As if a mermaid's dancing on your tongue, isn't it?

-Oh...

You're not the kind of prettiest of thing,

you certainly are the sweetest.

Ohhh....

'Dave, I love the barnacles, but the cider?

'Nah, it's not for me.'

'Across our baking journey, there's one grain that's eluded us - spelt.'

'Wheat's mega-tough cousin.

'We're off to the small hamlet of La Frecha,

'in the middle of the Asturias mountains,

'to a small agricultural spelt farm.'

'Spain, like most of Europe, has forgotten about spelt,

'but places like this are working hard to remind us.'

Yay! Spanda escanda.

-Panda escanda!

-SI CHUCKLES

-Spelt.

-Lovely.

-We need to see Carmen.

Ooh, la la!

Is that Carmen Miranda with the hat?

-Buenos dias!

-Hola! Buenos dias.

-Buenos dias.

-THEY LAUGH Carmen.

-Carmen, hi, I'm Si. Nice to meet you.

-Nice to meet you.

'And while Carmen is taking us to meet the baker...'

'..let us tell you what we know about spelt.'

'Spelt has been cultivated since antiquity.'

'And for good reason -

'it's resistant to bugs, doesn't need much looking after,

'and grows anywhere.'

'Si, I can't wait to see how their baker is going to work with it.'

-OK.

-And that's spelt flour.

-Yes.

-Si, Fernando?

-Spelt?

-Spelt.

-Espelta.

Er...100% spelt, organic spelt.

Right.

'Today, Maria-Flora is showing us

'how to bake two very special recipes.

'A rustic spelt bread, using sourdough.

'But first, she's going to prep her Asturian take on a sausage roll.

'And her dough recipe is simple.

'Spelt flour, butter, salt, water and yeast.'

I'll tell you what, Dave, I notice the colour of the flour,

it is really much darker.

-It looks like a cross between rye flour and buckwheat flour.

-Yes.

And knead. Yeah, I thought that might be coming.

'Don't get too smug, Dave, soon the tables will turn.'

How long do you leave the bread to...?

-Cuanto tiempo mas?

-Cuanto tiempo?

Er... Esta, diez minutos.

-Ten minutes.

-Ten minutes?

-Si.

-Yeah, not too much.

-'While the dough is resting...

-..on to the spelt bread.'

Ferment?

Natural, so just...

IN SPANISH:

-Ah!

-So it's sourdough.

Sourdough.

No salt, no yeast...

Just flour, water and atmosphere.

Si.

'Like we saw in Norway,

'the sourdough doesn't contain any added yeast.

'Just water, flour and the wild yeast that are everywhere.

'Hang on, why are my hands dirty?

'This is YOUR job!

'Right, you. I've been kneading for the last seven weeks.

'It's your turn to get a taste of it.'

Now, I've managed not to knead bread.

Now, in Spain, I meet my nemesis.

-Go on, Butch! Go on!

-It's getting there. Just get the water into it.

-And the softer the dough, the tastier the bread.

-That's it.

Look, that's what you call rhythm, mate, look at that.

Like a machine.

Tsssh!

Despacio, despacio.

'Maria-Flora is checking that my kneading

'raised the dough temperature above 23 degrees Celsius.

'By doing this, she's absolutely sure that the yeast will work,

'and the dough will rise.

'Genius! I can't believe we've never seen that anywhere else in Europe.'

-That needs to rest now for two hours.

-Dos horas. Dos.

-Dos horas.

-Dos horas.

'Meanwhile, the spelt dough for the sausage roll

'is ready to be handled.

'It's a very different texture to a wheat dough -

'darker, grainy, and even more elastic.'

Ha!

SI AND DAVE LAUGH

'She's using chorizo, lardons and skinned, cooked red pepper

'to fill the Asturian sausage roll.'

-It's a piggy tail!

-Yeah! He-hey!

-He-hey!

Aah, it's brilliant!

'And while the king of sausage rolls goes into the oven,

'we can shape the bread for baking.'

Well, this is Asturian spelt that's self-seeded

in the car park behind where they store the grain.

Do you know, in some circles,

you know, spelt has become a bit fashionable, a bit trendy.

What was that we read that it was like?

-SI LAUGHS

-It was like the Keira Knightley of the grain world!

It's a bit kind of like, chichi, you know.

'Posh or not posh, it's a lot easier to digest than common wheat.

'But the downside is that it takes longer to grow,

'which means only one harvest per year,

But you know, at the end of the day, if you forget the economics,

you forget the health side of it,

it produces bread that can taste magnificent.

Sourdough spelt bread.

-What does that taste like?

-Oh, Dave, that smell.

-That's awesome.

-Oh! You can smell the health!

Ohh...the perfume of Asturias.

'It's stronger and nuttier than wheat.

'But the texture is dense, but also quite light.

'It's a bit weird.

'In a good way.'

-Oh, man.

-That's really tasty bread.

Ohhh!

BOTH: Ho-hooooo!

Oh, yes!

We love you more than you'll ever know.

-SIMON SQUEAKS

-Mucho fantastico.

Ohh, look at that.

Sweet red pepper, streaky bacon and chorizo.

In bread!

Mmmm.

The bread is still cooked through perfectly,

it's springy and it's got texture.

Yeah, it has. Lovely taste.

-It's...

-THEY MAKE KISSING SOUNDS

-Oh...

-Yes!

'Goodbye, Asturias. We've loved you.

'We're back on El Camino, heading towards Santiago,

'but before we get there, we've a stop in Viviero in Galicia.

'Like the Basque Country,

'Galicia is an autonomous province within Spain

'with its own heritage and distinct language.

'But it shares its roots with Scotland and Ireland,

'forming what's known as the Celtic Triangle.'

Viviero is a small fishing village in the heart of Galicia,

steeped in ancient traditions and mysticism.

Well, we've left Asturias behind us and now we're in Galicia.

We're going to a bit of a mysterious evening.

We've been invited to a witchcraft ceremony.

'It's also known as a queimada and, like the Basques,

'Galician people are really keen on celebrating their heritage.

We're going to a bit of a "do"...

that evokes all those old Celtic traditions.

-DRUM BEAT

-I'm quite uncomfortable, really

cos I think things like this you shouldn't mess with.

SCREAMING

I mean, they always do it as part of the village fete,

to bring them health, wealth and happiness.

They don't do it to kill other villagers or owt, I don't think.

-What, like the Wicker Man?

-SCREAMS

-SI CHUCKLES

-I don't know.

The road's closed, but there's cars going up.

BAGPIPE MUSIC PLAYS

The queimada is at the heart of Galician Celtic identity

and the bagpipes sound very familiar.

Look, there's a cauldron.

They re-enact old legends and myths,

often about saving loved ones from the dead or other evil spirits.

IN SPANISH:

It's a ceremony to blind the evil eye and keep the witches away.

DRUM BEAT

I tell you what, what a fabulous way to keep the traditions alive,

to ward off the evil spirits and to keep the community together.

-Fantastic.

-It's a fabulous night. Fabulous night.

Dave, it's not over yet -

the sorcerer still has to bless the traditional drink,

which, confusingly, is also known as queimada.

It's a fiery blend of spirit,

herbs, sugar, lemon, coffee and cinnamon.

APPLAUSE

-Brilliant, isn't it?

-Yeah.

Maybe it was the Wicker Man after all.

And the sorcerer saves the village to keep away the bad spirits.

Everybody's dancing and it's, oh...

Happiness reigns in Galicia.

Exactly. Yes, happiness reigns in Galicia.

-Dance!

-Dance?

-Dance.

-Right, let's dance.

CROWD CHANTS

'Dave, watch out! It sounds seriously potent!

'Oh, Si, I love it! You get nowt like this on t'Costa Del Sol!'

ALARM RINGS

'Morning, Kingy!

-'Oh, morning, Dave, what a night!

-Yeah, Galicia rocks!

'We'd better get started up and at 'em, get our bacon going.

-'What, right now? Yeah,

-better get out act together.

-OK, OK.

'Today we're baking our Galician empanada right here on the beach.

'A bit like the Bierocks we baked in Germany.

'Sort of. Our filling this time

'is made of scallops, ham and all the loveliness from the sea

'that we bought at the market yesterday.

'It's amazing - all around Europe,

'the ingredients for a bread dough are pretty standard,

'but it's what you do with them

'that makes all the difference in the world.'

Here we are on a Galician beach!

In sun-drenched Spain! And we're going to cook a Galician empanada.

Might you, I'm still suffering from that fire water.

-You feel fabulous, don't you?

-You do!

Oh, I looked at myself in the mirror last night,

I thought, "You look great!"

I looked at myself this morning, I thought...

"You need harpooning!"

THEY BOTH LAUGH

Anyway we're going to be cooking a Galician empanada.

It's like a Galician fish pie. Who doesn't love a fish pie?

But this one's different, it's got a little touch of Galicia.

-It's a big pasty.

-Yeah.

And it's our last Bakeation cookery.

THEY SOB AND WAIL

-So we're going to make it a belter.

-Oh, it's going to be a great.

I might even take me clothes off in a sun-drenched sort of way.

Yeah! Do you know, an hour ago,

this beach was full of young ladies in bikinis, umbrellas,

people drinking sangria, castanets, flamenco.

Go and have a look now, look at it now. Look at it. Look at that.

But nobody can take the British off a beach.

BUGLE PLAYS "GOD SAVE THE QUEEN"

Not even the Germans and you know what they're like for sun loungers

and they're there at half past three in the morning.

We're not one for cultural stereotyping.

No, we're not, but it's true!

BUGLE PLAYS "DEUTSCHLAND UBER ALLES"

The Galician empanada, it is Spanish -

it's got peppers, onions, parsley, lemon juice, all cooked together.

The ways of doing the fish balance it out in a big pasty.

The pastry is different, it's an olive oil-based pastry.

The reason it's an olive oil-based pastry, it makes it slightly more elastic.

Right, take one dry board(!)

Flour.

To that, add one teaspoon of baking powder. Give it a bit of lift.

One teaspoon of salt - slightly damp.

Take one lump!

THEY LAUGH

One egg.

Now it's time for a oil-io d'olivio!

-Grande love sauce, Spanish green stuff from the tree.

-Go on!

Cuatro big spoons-o.

We're going to combine that with a fork

and then gradually add the water.

We're not going to give you a measurement for the water.

You'll have to look at it. When it's done, it's done.

You'll be able to see, it's not that hard.

And if you have a bit too much water in, just put a bit more flour in.

That's going to have to rest for about an hour.

That it makes it easier for you to roll out.

-You couldn't roll that out now, it would be difficult.

-Indeed.

Right, dude, I'm going to try and find somewhere to wash me hands.

I shall prepare the table in order to make the filling.

Again, we're starting by making a piperade -

these Basque flavours are everywhere.

Now this needs to sweat down completely

and it's going to form a vegetable mulch

that that wonderful fish is going to sit and steam on in our empanada.

Look, the original recipe with this was just for scallops and ham,

but because we have had such the most fantastic fish market,

we decided to get some razor clams,

steam them in a little bit of butter, a little bit of cider...

And they're rather like cooking mussels.

They really won't take long to steam

and they're going to be cooked in the pie again.

So just a little steam. We've got some hake and some bream.

The hake's really meaty,

so what we will do is just fillet this one off.

Hake is a really easy fish to fillet.

All you've got to do is get that central bone out.

It was me mum's favourite.

As a little boy, we always had hake steaks.

It's a good fish for kids, because it's not a bone fest,

it's a really easy eat.

Like so.

Pull the skin, let the knife do a bit of work and look at that.

That's just the skin. No waste.

And that is just pure, white meat.

And cut this into chunks, the bream's going to be thinner,

so just cut that into slices.

The bream's very soft, very fragile,

so we're just going lay those pieces in the empanada.

Scallops, well you could eat them raw,

they're just going to steam in their own juices. Lovely!

That's the base.

Now some scallops.

Some goujons of bream.

Well, we've got a little treat as a side dish

to go with the empanada Galicia.

I'm going to fry some small green peppers to make pimiento del Padron,

pretty similar to those we ate in the Txokos.

Now these are lovely, benign, sweet peppers,

but from time to time you'll get a hot one!

And I'm going to gently fry our beautiful king oyster mushrooms

in some butter and olive oil.

-Oh!

-Should I?

-Yeah, go on.

It's the freshest seafood, steamed in its own steamy thing.

Happy Bakeation, mate.

Cheers, mate, it's been a wonderful Bakeation!

-Ah, man!

-It's just full of all your favourite things.

The pastry, because of the olive oil, is quite bready.

But it works with this.

All the juices from the fish...

and the cooking liquor has gone into the bottom of the pastry.

-Mm-hm.

-And it's absolutely superb.

But the peppers are so sweet with the fish, the lemon juice...

This one rocks.

These peppers aren't bad, either.

-We'll remember San Sebastian every time we eat these now.

-Yeah.

'That's it, Kingy.

'It's the last few miles of our Bakeation.

'Santiago de Compostela, here we come!

'And we're on time for the big fiesta. Hurrah!

'Santiago is Galicia's capital

'and the final destination of the Way of St James.

'Tonight, all the pilgrims are converging on the city

'at the superb medieval cathedral.

'But it's not party time just yet -

'we've still got to try out a local speciality.

'But not just anyone, Buster! It's St James's very own tart.

'La Tarta de Santiago is an almond tart.

'Cake. It's an almond cake.'

'Well, it's a cake tart made with almonds.

'The recipe dates back to medieval times.

'In fact, the Galicians are so serious about it,

'that it can only be called a Tarta de Santiago

'if it's baked in the area.

'Anywhere else in the world, it's a Bakewell tart, but without the jam!'

Strangely enough, in the world baking competition,

in 1986 in Warsaw in Poland,

the Tarta de Santiago came a very respectable 23rd!

That, to me, is worthy of a look!

How does he know?!

-Bernarda?

-Hola!

-Hey! Dave.

-Hola, Bernarda.

-Como estas?

-Gracias, yes.

-There it is!

-The Tarta de Santiago.

With the cross of St James. Ah, brilliant!

Ooh! It's beautiful.

-That does look like a well-packed pie.

-Bernarda, may we?

Oh, you're a good 'un! You're a good 'un!

-So, these are the ingredients for the Tarta de Santiago?

-Si.

-Almendras.

-Almonds.

-Huevos.

-Eggs.

-Azucar.

-Sugar.

-Y un poquito de canela.

-Cinnamon.

Primero, la almendras.

-The almonds go in first.

-Si.

-That's a lot of almonds.

That IS a lot of almonds.

Continuacion, la azucar.

-That smells nice. Look.

-Cinnamon.

-Cinnamon.

-Ocho huevos.

-Eight eggs.

Cuatrocientos gramos.

Son dos huevos, por cien gramos.

There's two eggs, for every 100 grams of almonds,

so that means we've got 400 grounds of almonds,

so therefore, eight eggs. Ocho huevos.

He's fluent, y'know? He's good, isn't he?

Dos.

Si.

Maestro de la mano!

'Bernarda has already prepared some shortcrust pastry cases

'for the tarts.

'And she bakes them, well, until they're ready.'

-These look fantastic.

-Si.

-So the rest of the time, we're going to eat biscuits.

-Yes!

-Si!

Mm!

SHE SPEAKS IN SPANISH

So your grandma used to make these?

And they're made from the cream on the top of the milk.

These are lovely home-made biscuits.

-They are like your mother would make.

-Oh, fabulous.

-Superb.

Now, the mystery of how you get the cross of St James...

Ah...Beautiful.

'Now, I wouldn't recommend doing this without using oven gloves.

'Bernarda must have asbestos hands!'

It's very thin, as well.

-Ah, the cross.

-Cross de Santiago.

-La cruz de Santiago.

-La cruz de Santiago!

With the cross of St James.

Mm! It's lovely, it's like a kind of Bakewell-y, frangipane...

Oh, it's soft, it's lovely.

Oh, yeah. Mm.

-Buena?

-Si, si, buena.

Quite a funny texture, but lovely flavours, isn't it?

-Bueno.

-Perfecto.

-Perfecto. Superbo!

That's it, Kingy, our final Bakeation cake has been eaten.

BRASS BAND PLAYS

Mate, let's put our glad rags on for our last night.

It's party time!

Well, there's 15,000 people in town tonight,

and it's the eve of the Feast Of St James.

And over there, the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

People have come from all over the world to Santiago.

They followed their own scallop shells...

-FIREWORK LAUNCHES

-Here we go!

FIREWORK EXPLODES

-Oh...

-It's going to be a belting night.

Look. Look, mate, have you seen them all? Look.

All of these people on the embankment there

are waiting for the fireworks.

It's a MASSIVE display. It's going to be fabulous.

-Oh, look at that!

-Wow.

-Look at this, guys. Look.

STREET BAND PLAYS

I defy you to not stomp your feet.

-You cannae not, can you?

-You can't!

'We've been invited to watch the celebrations

'from one of the city council's private balconies.

'I feel like royalty!'

There's a wonderful sense of anticipation -

the music's about to start and the fireworks start in about,

kind of, six or seven minutes.

-And didn't we promise you the best seat in the house?

-Look at that.

15,000 people.

All here to celebrate the Feast Of St James.

It's an amazing operation.

I mean, there's helicopters circling in the sky,

there's firemen on the roof, obviously for the fireworks,

you don't want the cathedral to burn down!

But it really, really is a spectacle.

Should we?

Just once.

THEY LAUGH

-That's it.

-Oh, he's off.

-That's it now.

-Done it now, got it out me system.

-That's it, dude, that's it.

What a way to end.

Yeah, this is our last night in Spain.

Spain's been absolutely amazing.

The whole series has been absolutely amazing.

8,000 kilometres on the bikes.

Kingy, it's all over.

Our European baking pilgrimage has been incredible.

Not only have we discovered dozens of fantastic recipes,

but we've also met some of the best bakers ever.

That's the best bread I've ever tasted in my life.

From eating pretzels in Germany and celebrating Dutch culture,

to tasting Galician empanada in Spain,

and riding the Grossglockner in Austria, it's been an amazing ride.

But it's the friends and family who really made the trip, mate,

giving us a real sense of each country.

We've been so lucky to be far more than just tourists.

Every European country has its daily bread, cake, buns and pies.

And what binds them together is simply the love of baking!

Amazing.

Wonderful people, wonderful food, but what a finale!

It's starting. Look, the blue lights are on the cathedral.

All the posh folk are on the balcony.

-I'm not quite sure what to expect, are you?

-No. No, man.

SYMPHONY BEGINS

CHEERING

Wow.

Wow!

Wow!

CHEERING AND APPLAUSE

Woo!

'Our Spanish might need a bit of work,

'but if you've been inspired to master your pan rustico...'

Oil-io d'olivio!

'..or your empanada, go to...

'..and follow the links to the Open University.'

BOTH: Y viva Espana!

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

-We love riding bikes.

-We love baking!

-And we like nothing better than a good...

-TOGETHER: Bakeation!