Island Life Hairy Bikers' Best of British


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You know, we believe that Britain has the best food in the world.

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Not only can we boast fantastic ingredients...

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-Piece de resistance.

-Ah, nice!

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-Now, which is which?

-Lamb, mutton.

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-SHEEP BAAS

-'..outstanding food producers...'

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It's brilliant, isn't it?

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'..and innovative chefs...'

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'..but we also have an amazing food history.'

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-Aw, brilliant!

-Oh, wow!

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Don't eat them like that, you'd break your teeth!

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During this series,

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we're going to be taking you on a journey into our culinary past.

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It's all ready, so let's get cracking!

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'We'll explore its revealing stories...'

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-SIMON AND DAVE:

-Wow!

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'..and meet the heroes who keep our culinary past alive...'

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Pontefract Liquorice has been my life

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and I have loved every minute of it.

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'..and of course, be cooking up a load of dishes

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'that reveal our foodie evolution.'

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Look at that, that's a proper British treat.

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We have...a taste of history.

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Quite simply, the best of British!

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You know, nothing defines Britain more

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than the fact that we are an island race.

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The sea that surrounds us provides us with nourishment and livelihood.

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And we believe it has some of the best seafood in the world.

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From traditional favourites like the Whitstable oyster

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and Morecambe Bay shrimps

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to sea bass, crab, lobster and langoustines.

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The coastal waters of Britain truly are a fertile paradise.

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For centuries, they provided us with a livelihood

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and a plentiful supply of food.

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But in the past 50 years,

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we've got stuck on familiar favourites like cod and haddock.

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And we developed a taste for exotic species from abroad,

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like prawns and tuna.

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We seem to have forgotten all about

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the other amazing species we have around our British Isles.

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So in this show, we're going to seek out some of the fish and seafood

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that have delighted and nourished us for centuries.

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In the Best Of British kitchen,

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we're going to celebrate one of the jewels from our ocean treasure-trove

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and show you just how simple it is

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to sear a scallop.

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It is completely ridiculous when you think that we live on an island

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and the best harvests that we have

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are from our shores and from our seas.

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How mental is that?!

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Well, the rest of the world seems to appreciate this except us,

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that's why we export the seafood,

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cos people from other countries buy it.

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I think maybe we're frightened of it,

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frightened of its preparation

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but really, scallops are so easy

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and I think for children as well, they're such an easy eat.

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It's meat - there's no grisly bits, there's no faff.

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It's brilliant and scallops are ours.

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Look, you can buy them like that, or you can buy them...like that.

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I'll show you how to get... that out of that in a minute

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and it is so simple it's ridiculous.

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-They're like fish marshmallows, aren't they?

-Exactly that, yes.

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Scallops go well with lots and lots of things.

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You can pair it with cauliflower cheese - fabulous - celeriac,

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but we're pairing it with two of its most, almost spiritual brothers,

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bacon and black pudding.

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This classic combo of salty bacon, delicate seafood

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and the rich, earthy flavours of black pudding

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is served up on a cloud of fluffy mashed potato and greens.

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Known to the Irish as colcannon.

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It's our island life on a plate.

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We've got some potatoes on here which are poaching gently.

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When you do mashed potatoes,

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it's important that you poach the potatoes

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rather than boil them,

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you will get a fluffier mash.

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Right, kale.

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Kale's lovely, it's very good for you,

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it's very high in iron, vitamin C

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and all sorts of lovely things.

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We're going to take the main tough bit out

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and this is what we're interested in -

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the leaves, here.

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So, I'll crack on with that.

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First, chop the curly kale,

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then finely dice a small onion

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and sweat in olive oil.

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And so you don't get long, stringy bits...

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..turn your thingy round,

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and put your knife through it the other way.

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All hail the kale!

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It's a great dish, brilliant.

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Good bit of roughage as well, that kale.

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It's really good for you,

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full of vitamin C, full of iron.

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Fabulous.

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Colcannon, it's like Irish bubble and squeak

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and it can be cooked with either spring onions or cabbage,

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ours is with curly kale.

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-Can I put the kale in now, Si?

-Yeah, mate. Crack on.

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We're just going to fry this down on top of the onions.

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They're nice and translucent.

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Just pop that in and it'll drop quickly, it'll cook quickly.

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The kale's beginning to drop already, mixed with the onions.

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Cos you're cooking it in the onions and the oil,

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it's going to keep this wonderful green colour.

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It's like a...little postcard from the Emerald Isle.

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It's lovely, isn't it?

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Once you've strained the potatoes, pop them into a warm pan to dry off.

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You can see the steam coming off it,

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but don't colour them in any way, shape or form.

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Keep an eye on them...

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and look, they dry out really, quite quickly.

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And that's what you want

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because then that potato will produce lovely, fluffy mash.

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We're going to pass those potatoes through a ricer.

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Again, there'll be no lumps in this.

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I mean, you could put your beaters on a food mixer,

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just so it's lovely and creamy.

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In this pan, I'm going to melt some butter in some cream. Don't be shy!

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Now let's start to add the cream and the butter.

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This is quite luxurious!

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Just put in the kale and the onions.

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Just make sure you evenly distribute

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all that kale and onion through your mash.

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Dave's just to add a bit of pepper there.

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-Whoa-ho-ho!

-Oh, that is good, eh?

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You'd want for nothing better, would ya?

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The colcannon keeps warm in the oven

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while we make our magical trio

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of bacon, black pudding and scallops.

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Bacon and scallops are a marriage made in heaven.

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Going back to the original Coquilles Saint Jacques -

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bacon, scallops and cheese -

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but, you know, scallops go with so many things.

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It goes great with cauliflower.

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Make a wonderful cauliflower puree with cheese,

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sit a scallop on top, it's fantastic.

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We do one with black pudding, apple and scallops.

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Scallops - fantastic.

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This is really good streaky bacon.

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If you can, don't scrimp on your streaky

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because it forms a really important part of the dish.

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Just fry that off, now it needs to be crispy.

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So don't overcrowd the pan

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and what we're going to do,

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we want to save all that lovely bacon fat.

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Some bacon, you'll get loads of water out into the pan.

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At this point, you'd need to strain that off but this is good bacon.

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That's just fat and oil.

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And this...is black pudding.

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It comes in many forms, you get square black pudding,

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you get ones that are like, kind of a knotted muscle,

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but this, we want little rondelles.

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This is good black pudding.

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There was a song about black pudding.

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# Oo-oh

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# All of a sudden the dirty black pudding

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# Came floating through the air

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# It hit me mother and missed me father

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# And knocked them off their chair

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# Oh! #

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I love that.

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I'll just pop the black pudding in the oven

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to keep warm with the bacon.

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Now for the star of the show -

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our king scallops from Devon.

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The scallop shell is associated with a lot of symbolism.

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Think Botticelli's Venus,

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the goddess of love and fertility

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rising from the sea...

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on a scallop shell.

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It also became the symbol of Saint James of Compostela,

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the patron saint of fishermen.

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Legend has it that Saint James

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was washed up on the beach

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covered in these shells.

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And the pilgrims also wear a scallop shell around their neck

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and apart from being the sign of Saint James,

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it makes a handy little drinking vessel

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so you can get a little cup of water.

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-How lovely is that?

-The scallop's been around a while.

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This one's slightly easy cos it's opened

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but if it isn't open and it's tight,

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there's a little black...

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Can you see that little black dot at the back there ?

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That just keeps it, that shell closed

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and then all you do is work your way around the side, like that.

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The flat bit of the shell,

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all you do...

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..is just cut the scallop away from that part of the shell.

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Then you just push this down, like that. OK?

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Then, just underneath...

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just ease it off.

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Then, turn it the other way up

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and just pick away...

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..that membrane from that lovely piece of meat.

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That is just a nugget of pure, high grade seafood.

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It's just great and if you don't want to do that,

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you can buy them ready done, like that.

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Don't be frightened of them, please, please eat them,

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cos they are harvested from our own waters and they're brilliant.

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Now for a sauce worthy of a king...

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Scallop!

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We're deglazing the black pudding and bacon juices in the pan

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with a drop of Marsala,

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which is a Spanish fortified wine.

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-Oh, man!

-Needs to cook down, it's beautiful.

-Oh, God, it's gorgeous.

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Marsala's a wonderful ingredient,

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it's great with liver, it's great with scallops.

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Dry and season the scallops with a little salt and pepper

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and a drizzle of olive oil.

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So let's get those scallops sizzling.

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You need to have that griddle,

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banging hot!

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-OK?

-You want the scallops almost to jump off.

-You do.

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-Look at that.

-Just hold them there for a minute. Oh, that is hot!

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The most important thing is not to move them, just leave them.

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If you move them now, you'll rip the flesh.

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You'll see as it cooks,

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they'll just come away, nice and easy.

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And literally, it's a minute either side.

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-The scallop will tell you when it's ready.

-Yeah, look, coming away.

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People think, "It's stuck!"

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It hasn't, it's just not ready.

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They're not far off, are they?

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Oh, lush!

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-Should I get the rest of the players out of the oven?

-Please, man.

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Then we can start the build!

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Plate.

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Put the bacon on top of the colcannon.

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The black pudding.

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This is the Marsala and chicken stock, and the fats all reduced.

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So really, you can have gravy with your fish!

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I'll let a little bit of that fall provocatively onto the plate.

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The black pepper in there...

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I think that's enough, do you?

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That's absolutely gorgeous.

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Scallops don't have to be a namby-pamby starter.

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That's a really robust dish.

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It's meat and two veg, and we've even got gravy.

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I know you're not supposed to talk with your mouth full,

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but if there's one dinner you cook for your family, cook this one.

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It's fab.

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Well, I think that's a fitting celebration

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of one of the finest products of our island race.

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Too right.

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Now, it's a testament to our island history

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that for centuries, the biggest and busiest fish market in the world

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was at Billingsgate in London,

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the beating heart of our fishy food history

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for almost 1,000 years.

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Billingsgate fed lucky Londoners

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with fish from every corner of the British Isles.

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Every day, 250 tonnes will be hurried in and then carried out

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on its way to caterers, fish shops and restaurants.

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Billingsgate Market is the quickest way yet invented

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of getting the fish out of the sea and onto the table.

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-VOICE ECHOES:

-Its history is the stuff of legend.

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The story goes that in 400 BC

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a Saxon chap called Belin, King of the Britons,

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spied a good business opportunity on a sheltered inlet,

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on the shores of the River Thames.

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The perfect port for boats laden with...fish!

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He erected a mighty gate for all fishermen to pass through

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for a small fee.

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Belin's gate! Billingsgate - you get it?!

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And in the Middle Ages, when fish was a vital part of our diet,

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the market was granted a royal charter.

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Making it of-FISH-ial! Official - you see?

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By the 18th century, 150,000 tonnes of fish a year

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were unloaded here

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and sold from ramshackle stalls and sheds around the dock.

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It was time for an upgrade!

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The city of London commissioned the prestigious architect

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of nearby London Bridge, Sir Horace Jones,

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to construct a grand hall to house the market.

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The new trading hall boasted the latest in Victorian technology -

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steam generators which powered the lifts

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and boiled the shellfish at the same time...

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..and the catacombs below were packed with ice

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to keep the fresh fish cool.

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It was state of the art!

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Fishing boats docked from all over the British Isles...

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..vessels from Yarmouth brought smoked fish...

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..oysters came from Colchester...

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..mackerel from Cornwall...

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..sprats and herring from Sussex...

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..and cod from Yorkshire.

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A carved figure of Britannia

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proclaimed our fishy prowess to the world!

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But Billingsgate's most famous legacy

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may be the eccentric behaviour of its colourful characters.

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For 700 years, the commonplace activity of buying and selling fish

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has produced a unique subculture

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with its own highly distinctive camaraderie, wit and smell.

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We don't look too bad on it, do we, the smell?

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It's history has even become part of the English language.

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The expression, "Swearing like a fishwife"

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comes from the sharp-tongued language

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of the women who sold the fish.

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And, "To Billingsgate," means to curse like a porter

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with a heavy box of fish on his head.

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Thank goodness for bobbin hats, then!

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Nothing much as fashion goes,

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but a necessary protection against both wet and weight.

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Bobbins, they're called.

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At its beginning, Billingsgate had provided hungry Londoners

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with a vital food source.

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But 1,000 years on, it has become a specialist international market,

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which also served exotic fishmongers and posh restaurants.

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From abroad, we have the American squids...

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mainly going to Chinese restaurants.

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-Where does this red mullet come from?

-Greece.

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Quite good suppliers now coming in for the immigrant population.

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For example, we have the Portuguese sardines and grey mullet as well.

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And though its move to a large, airy warehouse in the Docklands

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marked the end of an era for some...

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Could take about 300 years to get an atmosphere here

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that we had in the other market.

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Billingsgate's survival through history, and colourful culture,

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are as much a celebration of our island life

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as the wonderful array of fish from our shores.

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-Do you like fish?

-I love it...and I mean that.

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For us Hairy Bikers, there's one seafood speciality

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that's an unbeatable favourite...

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Potted shrimps from Morecambe Bay.

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A real British classic that Si and I remember from our childhoods.

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For hundreds of years, shrimp catching and potting

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has been at the heart of the local economy, here in Morecambe Bay.

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When the tide rolls back, it reveals 120 square miles of sand,

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containing tasty brown shrimps.

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Renowned for their delicate taste and unique texture!

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Until the 1960s, horses and carts dragged nets behind them.

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Then tractors took over,

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able to pull two nets each, up to 15 foot long.

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On the other side of the bay,

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boats have traditionally dragged nets behind them

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as the tide goes out.

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The shrimps are then boiled on board

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and sent off to the potting factories.

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We want to find out what makes these potted shrimps

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taste so very special.

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So we're in Morecambe

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to visit the oldest shrimp-potting business in town.

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James Baxter set up his potted shrimp business in 1799

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and it's still going strong today.

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The company has also been purveyors of potted shrimps

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to the Royal household since the 1960s.

0:17:400:17:43

The catch of the day is still shelled by hand.

0:17:450:17:48

And then, the magic happens.

0:17:480:17:51

The humble shrimp is transformed into a local delicacy -

0:17:510:17:55

potted shrimps in spiced butter.

0:17:550:17:57

But is it their 300-year-old secret recipe

0:17:590:18:02

or their technique that matters?

0:18:020:18:06

Manager Mark Smith is putting us to work

0:18:060:18:08

so we're hoping we might get to find out.

0:18:080:18:11

Morning, Mark. Dave.

0:18:110:18:12

If you can just both take a hairnet.

0:18:120:18:15

It's an attractive look this, isn't it?

0:18:150:18:17

Works well.

0:18:170:18:18

MARK LAUGHS

0:18:180:18:21

-Would you take me home to your mother?

-No, not really.

0:18:210:18:23

Yes, the Ena Sharples memorial concert.

0:18:230:18:26

THEY LAUGH

0:18:260:18:28

Right, gentlemen, we'll go through to the potting room.

0:18:280:18:31

In here, gentlemen.

0:18:390:18:41

-Good morning, ladies.

-Good morning.

-Morning, ladies!

0:18:410:18:44

Morecambe Bay shrimps are one of the culinary treasures of the world.

0:18:440:18:49

They're fantastic.

0:18:490:18:50

There's nothing else like it.

0:18:500:18:52

This is true, we're a delicacy

0:18:520:18:54

and we still do everything by hand.

0:18:540:18:56

We don't mass produce but what we do produce is quality

0:18:560:19:01

and it's always been about the quality.

0:19:010:19:04

-You can keep your caviar.

-Oh!

0:19:040:19:06

You can keep your snails.

0:19:060:19:08

There ain't nothing like Morecambe Bay shrimps.

0:19:080:19:10

So what happens here, Mark?

0:19:100:19:12

What Anne's doing now is melting the butter

0:19:120:19:16

and then she'll add the spices.

0:19:160:19:18

-What's in the spices?

-Can't tell you that.

-They'll be maize, won't there?

0:19:180:19:22

That's traditional.

0:19:220:19:23

-Yes, we have a secret recipe... and it will remain so.

-Good lad.

0:19:230:19:28

Good lad.

0:19:280:19:29

Well, it looks like that's one recipe

0:19:290:19:32

that will stay secret forever.

0:19:320:19:34

I bet the Queen doesn't even know what's in her potted shrimps!

0:19:340:19:37

But one thing's for sure, it's not just what goes in the spiced butter

0:19:380:19:42

that makes these shrimps special.

0:19:420:19:45

It's how you stir it in that counts.

0:19:460:19:48

-Are you putting your back into that?

-I am, I'm trying to move the pot!

0:19:480:19:51

There's a knack, ain't there?

0:19:510:19:54

A knack that you have and I don't.

0:19:540:19:56

-Are you going to have a go?

-Yep, I will.

0:19:560:19:58

-It's easy, it's like rowing a boat.

-Is it?

-Yeah.

0:19:580:20:01

Like you're rowing a boat.

0:20:010:20:03

-Like that?

-No, one hand!

0:20:030:20:06

Well, that's on my own, it does it!

0:20:060:20:09

Room for improvement!

0:20:090:20:12

We won't call him if we're on holiday!

0:20:120:20:14

Once the shrimps have been skilfully stirred,

0:20:140:20:17

they are boiled for 15 minutes in their famously secret,

0:20:170:20:20

spiced butter.

0:20:200:20:22

And after the ritualistic tea break,

0:20:270:20:29

the Morecambe Bay shrimps have cooled.

0:20:290:20:32

It's time to get them in their pots.

0:20:320:20:34

Put it on the scale now.

0:20:350:20:37

And it's got... Hey, exactly right!

0:20:370:20:39

I don't bloody believe it!

0:20:390:20:41

Oh, aye, on the money.

0:20:410:20:43

-A natural, see? It's in me blood.

-Not having that!

0:20:430:20:45

You're miles out.

0:20:450:20:47

I'm going to have to leave this to the experts cos I'm a bit slow.

0:20:470:20:51

-One spoonful.

-Put it on...

-Make sure it's covered.

0:20:530:20:56

Make sure the whole spoonful goes on.

0:20:560:20:58

Cos you see, it is not just for taste, is it?

0:20:580:21:02

It is a preservative - the butter keeps the air out.

0:21:020:21:05

It's one of the real old methods of potting.

0:21:050:21:07

This method of preserving meat and fish

0:21:080:21:10

was particularly popular with sailors of the 17th century.

0:21:100:21:14

They left our fair Isle on long voyages

0:21:140:21:16

with a wide variety of potted meats and fish

0:21:160:21:19

which helped them beat malnutrition.

0:21:190:21:22

'And there's still a big demand for potted shrimps today,

0:21:220:21:25

'they sell around 100,000 pots every year!'

0:21:250:21:29

We've always loved Morecambe Bay shrimps,

0:21:290:21:31

-but I reckon we love them even more now.

-Hear, hear!

-Yeah.

0:21:310:21:35

-Thanks very much, thanks, Mark.

-Yeah, thanks. Magic!

-Thanks you.

0:21:350:21:39

-Thank you.

-See ya, bye!

-See ya later!

0:21:390:21:42

Isn't it nice to think that one of our pots of shrimps

0:21:420:21:44

might be enjoyed by Her Majesty?

0:21:440:21:46

It makes you proud, dude, to call these British Isles home.

0:21:460:21:52

Lets hope they keep at it for another 300 years.

0:21:520:21:55

Now we Brits have a voracious appetite for TV cooking programmes.

0:21:580:22:04

And we Hairy Bikers owe our love of food to those classic TV chefs

0:22:040:22:08

who helped to change our eating habits.

0:22:080:22:10

And who inspired us as a nation to get into the kitchen.

0:22:100:22:13

Mate, if we're going to celebrate fish, who have we got to watch?

0:22:150:22:19

Floyd On Fish, 1985.

0:22:190:22:22

This was Keith Floyd's first series

0:22:230:22:26

in which he travelled round Britain on a trawler,

0:22:260:22:29

introducing us to the abundance of fish around the British Isles.

0:22:290:22:32

A beautiful, fresh, succulent scallop. Bon appetit!

0:22:320:22:37

He believed, like we do, that Britain has the best fish in the world!

0:22:370:22:41

Do you know, none of you lot will eat these.

0:22:430:22:46

All of these are going to Spain, to France, to Italy,

0:22:460:22:49

but scrubbed till it's pink and boiled, placed in the centre

0:22:490:22:53

and you'll crack open the claws,

0:22:530:22:55

dip it into unctuous yellow mayonnaise

0:22:550:22:57

and think, as they must think, "What fools the Brits are for not

0:22:570:23:01

"taking advantage of the wonderful things we've got around our shores."

0:23:010:23:04

-Hear, hear.

-He's right, isn't he, things haven't changed.

0:23:040:23:07

This show is a classic

0:23:080:23:10

because it features another passionate fish hero

0:23:100:23:12

who makes his debut on Floyd's series.

0:23:120:23:15

Jolly well is, isn't it?

0:23:150:23:17

Famous for his fish restaurants in Padstow in Cornwall.

0:23:170:23:21

-Look at Rick Stein!

-Crumbs!

-'Welcome to your kitchen.'

0:23:210:23:24

Well, cheers, cheers. The wine's very nice...

0:23:240:23:27

Voice is the same, isn't it, but his appearance has certainly changed.

0:23:270:23:31

Rick Stein's restaurant, here in Padstow, was voted one of the best,

0:23:310:23:35

or in fact THE best seafood restaurant in the country.

0:23:350:23:38

So, what better place could we come to to cook my favourite fish,

0:23:380:23:41

which is a bass.

0:23:410:23:43

Now, for me this is the king of fish, you can grill it,

0:23:430:23:45

you can steam it, you can cook it in fennel flaming with Armagnac...

0:23:450:23:49

And of course Rick and Keith are the two people

0:23:490:23:52

who've done more than anybody to persuade us to catch fish,

0:23:520:23:57

-enjoy fish and to eat it.

-Yes!

0:23:570:24:00

'I'm going to stuff it with just some ordinary root vegetables.'

0:24:000:24:03

Here we've got celeriac,

0:24:030:24:05

which is like celery, but comes in a root form, er, carrots, fennel...

0:24:050:24:10

You've all got that at home,

0:24:100:24:11

those ingredients, you could use any root vegetables you fancied.

0:24:110:24:14

-This is Nick's own special recipe...

-He called him Nick!

0:24:140:24:17

Nick Stein, ha-ha!

0:24:170:24:19

-Rick, dear boy, Rick!

-Rick! Oh, I'm terribly sorry!

0:24:190:24:21

Well, once you've seen one cook you've seen them all, haven't you?

0:24:210:24:24

THEY LAUGH

0:24:240:24:26

Film is very expensive, get on with the cooking!

0:24:260:24:28

OK. Well, what I'm going to do is just, er,

0:24:280:24:30

gently sweat these root vegetables off.

0:24:300:24:32

It was maverick Stein, isn't it, really?

0:24:330:24:35

In those days he'd just started out.

0:24:350:24:37

He had the best seafood restaurant in the country,

0:24:370:24:40

but did he know it would grow?

0:24:400:24:42

It would take over Padstow in Cornwall.

0:24:420:24:44

He's got a chip shop, his restaurant, he's got the seafood cookery school.

0:24:440:24:47

Yeah, the school, yeah.

0:24:470:24:49

I mean, he's had such an affect on the local economy,

0:24:490:24:52

-they call it Padstein now!

-I just think that's great!

0:24:520:24:55

30 seconds, starting from now,

0:24:550:24:56

on the importance of fresh herbs in the kitchen.

0:24:560:24:58

Right, well, I mean, for my style of cooking, which is simple,

0:24:580:25:01

there's no, sort of,

0:25:010:25:02

I'm not involved in elaborate cooking at all,

0:25:020:25:06

herbs are THE most important part

0:25:060:25:08

and they've got to be fresh herbs so I have to grow them myself

0:25:080:25:11

cos, as you know, Keith, trying to buy herbs

0:25:110:25:13

in a greengrocers in England, it's a joke!

0:25:130:25:16

-Cor, that's changed over the years, hasn't it?

-Absolutely, yeah.

0:25:160:25:19

-Now we can get fresh herbs daily.

-Yeah.

0:25:190:25:22

We're so used to hearing about fresh local food now.

0:25:240:25:27

But 25 years ago these two were ahead of their time.

0:25:270:25:31

What is interesting, in these days of nouvelle cuisine,

0:25:310:25:34

you know, the photograph on a plate at £20 a head,

0:25:340:25:36

you're actually serving a whole fish with a head on -

0:25:360:25:39

the way I like to see food served,

0:25:390:25:41

but is there a, I mean, is nouvelle cuisine here to stay?

0:25:410:25:44

Does it affect your customers? Are they frightened of seeing a fish?

0:25:440:25:47

Well, you get the odd one that wants the head taken off.

0:25:470:25:50

It comes in about 50 seconds after it's gone out,

0:25:500:25:52

"Don't like the head!", which is...

0:25:520:25:54

You know, what's wrong with a fish head?

0:25:540:25:56

It's, er, you know, the Chinese have fish head soups for God's sake!

0:25:560:25:59

I mean, there's nothing wrong with them,

0:25:590:26:01

but some people are very squeamish about those sorts of things,

0:26:010:26:04

but on the whole I find that customers

0:26:040:26:06

prefer to get the whole fish.

0:26:060:26:08

-He's good, Rick Stein, isn't he?

-He's fabulous, isn't he?

-He's great.

0:26:080:26:11

He's just, the two of them are just so empowering and they want,

0:26:110:26:15

you know, they demand that you get in the kitchen

0:26:150:26:18

and use produce that comes from our shores, it's brilliant!

0:26:180:26:22

-Both of them, I mean, they inspired me to cook.

-Yeah.

0:26:220:26:24

-But they inspired med to cook, didn't they?

-They did.

0:26:240:26:28

-This is quite incredible, isn't it?

-It is.

0:26:280:26:30

I mean, this has to be the best table in the world,

0:26:300:26:32

in the best climate in the world, with the best fish in the world!

0:26:320:26:35

-Absolutely.

-Which is a bass, isn't it?

0:26:350:26:38

-They're so passionate about fish, aren't they?

-Yeah.

0:26:380:26:41

I mean, shellfish.

0:26:410:26:42

Why are we so anti-fish in this place?

0:26:420:26:45

Maybe not in your restaurant because you are just fish,

0:26:450:26:47

but the British as a whole reject fish.

0:26:470:26:49

As far as I'm concerned I've got breaking strain of a hot Mars Bar

0:26:490:26:53

when it comes to fresh bass! It's a brilliant fish, isn't it?

0:26:530:26:56

It is, it's absolutely wonderful. I can't understand...

0:26:560:26:59

why the English are so anti-fish.

0:26:590:27:01

Certainly when they come to the restaurant

0:27:010:27:03

they're a lot keener on fish because we are by the sea

0:27:030:27:07

and I think they feel it right to eat fish in that sort of setting.

0:27:070:27:12

I think people are scared of fish because they are scared of the work,

0:27:120:27:15

or they perceive there will be some work in eating it.

0:27:150:27:18

Yeah and also it's fiddly and it's bony and it's this and it's that,

0:27:180:27:20

it's so wrong.

0:27:200:27:22

I just, I just really like the look of a fresh fish

0:27:220:27:25

straight out of the sea.

0:27:250:27:28

Just feel, "Wow, I'd really like to make that something special."

0:27:280:27:31

I'll drink to that.

0:27:310:27:32

Thank you very much for joining us for our lunch,

0:27:320:27:35

I hope you'll join us on the next Floyd On Fish programme

0:27:350:27:38

because believe me, my gastronauts, this is the way to eat fish!

0:27:380:27:42

Ha-ha!

0:27:420:27:43

Keith Floyd and Rick Stein

0:27:430:27:45

believed the best way to sell seafood to the Brits

0:27:450:27:48

was to entice us down to the coast to sample it fresh from the sea.

0:27:480:27:52

They hoped that way, we'd be hooked!

0:27:520:27:55

Well, in Ventnor, on the Isle of Wight,

0:28:000:28:03

there's one man who is taking that idea on board.

0:28:030:28:06

Our Best of British Food Hero - local fisherman Geoff Blake!

0:28:060:28:10

Ah, a couple of lobsters! Here we go.

0:28:140:28:16

These pots, they've been down for two days, so, er...

0:28:160:28:20

this is what they've come up with in a couple of days,

0:28:200:28:23

is a nice female crab there.

0:28:230:28:25

They've got a big rounded shell

0:28:250:28:27

and these crabs are renowned for the red coral meat inside,

0:28:270:28:30

which is a really tasty delicacy.

0:28:300:28:33

Geoff and his family have created a small fishing haven

0:28:330:28:37

complete with pier for landing the fresh catch,

0:28:370:28:40

a wet fish shop and a takeaway.

0:28:400:28:42

Their dream is to sell the freshest fish in town.

0:28:430:28:46

We have boats that are just landing now

0:28:460:28:48

and we have the fresh Dover sole we caught this morning,

0:28:480:28:52

mackerel we caught this morning and this is all put out

0:28:520:28:55

and by 11 o'clock the shop's open with the day's fresh catch.

0:28:550:29:00

It's really family teamwork that makes it work.

0:29:040:29:07

My wife takes the orders and organises all the deliveries

0:29:070:29:11

and my son helps us with loading the vans

0:29:110:29:13

with stuff that has to go to the mainland.

0:29:130:29:16

My daughter helps out in the fish and chip takeaway,

0:29:160:29:19

it's a real family team effort.

0:29:190:29:21

-Sea bass for two, whole or fillets?

-Er, I think filleted tonight.

-Yep.

0:29:210:29:26

We never set out to be fishmongers,

0:29:260:29:28

we just wanted to sell what we were catching.

0:29:280:29:31

That's 7.75.

0:29:310:29:32

And when we moved into this bigger premises

0:29:320:29:34

we needed to draw in from other fishermen

0:29:340:29:37

and encourage them to land to us.

0:29:370:29:39

And pollock fillet there, if I can give you that.

0:29:390:29:43

Geoff's fishy friend James

0:29:430:29:45

is also delighted to be selling fish this fresh.

0:29:450:29:47

He wants to wean the locals off buying the same old suspects

0:29:470:29:51

from the supermarket...

0:29:510:29:52

Got grey mullet fillet there.

0:29:530:29:56

..and discover just how good fish can be when it's fresh from the sea.

0:29:560:30:00

You go into a supermarket and you've got Catch Of The Day board,

0:30:000:30:03

you've got a massive Catch Of The Day board up on the side.

0:30:030:30:05

Well, how's that possible, how can a supermarket get the fish that day?

0:30:050:30:10

It gets transported from market, packaged, labelled

0:30:100:30:14

and then sent off to different depots and then sent off to stores.

0:30:140:30:18

When it says, "Catch Of The Day," it should mean catch of the day.

0:30:180:30:21

We should, OK, we can be catch of the minute. Or catch of the hour!

0:30:210:30:24

Geoff and his family are passionate about persuading locals

0:30:260:30:29

to eat the riches that they have on their doorsteps.

0:30:290:30:31

Thanks very much, bye!

0:30:330:30:34

It's some of the best seafood in the world!

0:30:340:30:38

People are surprised at how much does come in at Ventnor, you know,

0:30:380:30:41

it's, er, they assume that UK waters just produce cod and that's it.

0:30:410:30:46

They don't realise the array of things

0:30:460:30:48

and a lot of things we catch they think comes from the Mediterranean,

0:30:480:30:51

but the case is that it's usually British fish

0:30:510:30:54

sent down to the Mediterranean for them to eat down there!

0:30:540:30:57

Until recently Ventnor had no harbour,

0:30:590:31:02

so the local fishermen here had no other option,

0:31:020:31:05

but to send their seafood to the mainland

0:31:050:31:08

and from there it was shipped to the continent.

0:31:080:31:10

But Geoff wanted to change all that.

0:31:100:31:13

He had a brainwave.

0:31:130:31:14

He helped the local council secure funding to create a fishing haven,

0:31:140:31:18

complete with harbour wall and a multi-function fishing pier.

0:31:180:31:22

So that he and other local fishermen

0:31:220:31:24

could land and sell their catch right here.

0:31:240:31:28

It's just purpose-built for what we need.

0:31:280:31:30

We've got somewhere to tie out boats,

0:31:300:31:33

easy to unload the catches off the boats with the fish-hoist

0:31:330:31:37

and on the shore end we've got our shop

0:31:370:31:39

and you've got a little package there from one end to the other

0:31:390:31:42

takes the fish from boat to customer.

0:31:420:31:46

Despite the abundance and variety of top quality fish available here,

0:31:470:31:51

until 50 years ago the Island's shallow waters and rocky seabed

0:31:510:31:55

were unsuitable for commercial fishing in large boats,

0:31:550:31:58

so no fishing industry developed here.

0:31:580:32:01

And for much of the last century,

0:32:010:32:03

the local economy relied

0:32:030:32:05

on Ventnor's reputation as a holiday resort.

0:32:050:32:08

Established by the Victorians who flocked to Ventnor

0:32:080:32:11

for its warm sheltered climate and stunning coastal scenery.

0:32:110:32:15

Geoff's ancestors turned their hands to whatever they could find.

0:32:150:32:19

You can trace our family back to the early 1800s,

0:32:190:32:23

when they were longshoreman.

0:32:230:32:25

Really, a longshoreman is someone who makes their living

0:32:250:32:28

from along the shore.

0:32:280:32:29

It's swung between being fishermen,

0:32:290:32:33

to operating bathing machines and doing deckchairs,

0:32:330:32:37

rowing boats, sailing boats that take people out for trips.

0:32:370:32:42

Really, in the last 30 years, the bucket and spade brigade

0:32:420:32:46

have been starting going abroad.

0:32:460:32:48

The business has evolved more into the food side,

0:32:480:32:51

and the local food, and what the sea can produce for us.

0:32:510:32:55

As well as selling a vast range of fresh fish in his shop,

0:32:570:32:59

the family chip shop also offers

0:32:590:33:02

an unconventional array of takeaway fare.

0:33:020:33:05

The mackerel will either be sold whole in the shop,

0:33:050:33:08

or we will fillet them off,

0:33:080:33:11

cover them in breadcrumbs and serve them with chips in our takeaway.

0:33:110:33:15

But the main thing is, it's beautifully fresh.

0:33:150:33:19

And it's sustainable.

0:33:190:33:21

As fish and chip shop favourites,

0:33:210:33:23

cod, haddock and place suffered from overfishing in the Atlantic,

0:33:230:33:27

Jeff is converting his customers to new specialities.

0:33:270:33:30

I think it was my mum's idea.

0:33:310:33:33

During the winter we do crab on chips,

0:33:330:33:35

and when lobster is in season, we do lobster on chips.

0:33:350:33:38

We are getting the brown meat first,

0:33:380:33:41

because it oozes down and makes a nice sticky sauce.

0:33:410:33:44

It's really nice, cos the warmth of the chips,

0:33:440:33:47

and then with the cold crab on top,

0:33:470:33:49

it warms slightly and it's a really nice mixture.

0:33:490:33:51

We really take pride down here,

0:33:530:33:55

because we can pull the crabs out of the sea, and the fresh fish,

0:33:550:33:59

and put it on, and everybody comes down and says how much they enjoy it.

0:33:590:34:03

Our whole town here has become a real seafood mecca,

0:34:030:34:07

everybody is coming to eat the local seafood

0:34:070:34:10

and we really get a buzz out of that.

0:34:100:34:14

I think our ancestors from years gone by will be quite proud

0:34:140:34:17

of what we are achieving,

0:34:170:34:19

and the Blakes are still living on the Isle of Wight,

0:34:190:34:22

making a living for themselves and other people.

0:34:220:34:25

That is something we can be proud of and Ventnor can be proud of.

0:34:250:34:30

Now, in the Best Of British kitchen,

0:34:340:34:37

we'll show you what else you can do

0:34:370:34:39

with this most versatile and delectable

0:34:390:34:41

of British seaside delicacies.

0:34:410:34:43

The crab. The crab delivers.

0:34:450:34:47

It delivers on flavour, it delivers on texture, it's brilliant.

0:34:470:34:52

Yes, the crab is undoubtedly the king of crustaceans.

0:34:520:34:55

-It is, Dave, it is. And we're going to show you what to do with it.

-Aye.

0:34:550:35:00

We've created a recipe that combines the crab with the mighty leek.

0:35:000:35:05

Here's how to make our Best Of British crab and leek tart.

0:35:070:35:11

All tarts start with a pastry base.

0:35:110:35:14

And this one is half wholemeal, half flour. Take a leek, Kingy!

0:35:140:35:18

I'm on my way. Two leeks, I'll crack on with them.

0:35:180:35:24

We'll saute those in a frying pan with a little bit of butter.

0:35:240:35:27

The important thing is, we don't want any colour.

0:35:270:35:30

We simply want them to sweat.

0:35:300:35:33

Take wholemeal flour... in a processor.

0:35:330:35:37

Mix with plain. To your wholemeal and plain flour,

0:35:380:35:41

add little knobs of butter.

0:35:410:35:43

Like so.

0:35:430:35:45

You can put it into cubes, and it looks all posh, there's no need to.

0:35:450:35:48

It's a very quick and easy tart, this, it's really nice.

0:35:480:35:52

-And it tastes immense.

-It's fantastic, isn't it? It's a fave.

0:35:520:35:56

Leeks, you know... # They make you sing! #

0:35:560:36:00

No, it is! They're meant to be good for your voice.

0:36:000:36:03

Emperor Nero believed, and he was very vain about his singing voice,

0:36:030:36:07

that leeks made him sing better.

0:36:070:36:10

So he ate loads, and his nickname was Porrum Fargus,

0:36:100:36:14

which means leek eater.

0:36:140:36:16

-It doesn't!

-HE SINGS LOUDLY

0:36:160:36:21

-You'd better get going, son.

-I've eaten loads in my time.

0:36:210:36:24

-Not enough.

-Ohh!

0:36:240:36:27

'Blitz the flours and the butter in a food processor

0:36:310:36:34

'until you get fine crumbs.

0:36:340:36:36

'Then add the egg in a thin stream until it all comes together.'

0:36:370:36:41

This is a short pastry.

0:36:430:36:45

It's shorter than Ronnie Corbett wearing sandals, this one.

0:36:450:36:49

-Butter your tin liberally.

-Put your leeks in for about three minutes.

0:36:490:36:54

You don't want any colour on them, you want them to sweat,

0:36:540:36:57

sweat, sweat, sweat, sweat. Think Benidorm.

0:36:570:37:01

So just roll that flat. And put that great big lump in your tin.

0:37:010:37:06

Now, you could try rolling it out, get yourself in a kerfuffle.

0:37:080:37:11

Just press it in with your fingers in an even way, it's so easy.

0:37:110:37:16

Thing is, it's short, it's full of butter. It's going to be tasty.

0:37:160:37:21

Because sometimes wholemeal pastry,

0:37:210:37:23

if you don't have loads of butter in,

0:37:230:37:25

quite frankly, can be like a beer mat.

0:37:250:37:27

That's them. Turn them off, take them off the heat, let them cool.

0:37:270:37:32

See, no colour on them. We've just sweated them, lovely.

0:37:340:37:37

-Look at that, the hands of a master.

-Aye. Just get it nice and even.

0:37:370:37:44

It's so much easier than trying to wrestle with a rolling pin.

0:37:440:37:48

-You know, it's the personal touch.

-It's the personal touch.

0:37:480:37:52

As you can see, beautifully even.

0:37:520:37:54

Now what we do is we prick this with a fork,

0:37:540:37:57

and just pop this in the fridge to chill down for half an hour

0:37:570:38:00

before we blind bake it. Look at that, beautiful.

0:38:000:38:03

Ow! Ooh! Ee! Ooh! Ow! Ooh! Argh!

0:38:030:38:07

Now if you've just tuned in, you may wonder,

0:38:100:38:12

why is he baking a bean pie?

0:38:120:38:13

It's not. This is a process known as blind baking.

0:38:130:38:18

What happens is, we pre-bake the base.

0:38:180:38:20

And as you can see,

0:38:200:38:22

the beans will hold the pastry to the sides of the tin.

0:38:220:38:25

Also, apart from giving us a pastry case with a good shape,

0:38:250:38:28

it'll make sure that it's cooked.

0:38:280:38:30

-So you'll never get a tart with a soggy bottom.

-No. That's wrong!

0:38:300:38:35

-We could make the filling, couldn't we, son?

-Let's crack on.

0:38:370:38:40

Now! Thank you.

0:38:400:38:42

-HE HUMS "THE STRIPPER"

-Now!

0:38:420:38:45

We need three eggs, whisked lightly, and then...

0:38:470:38:50

Creme fraiche, look at that.

0:38:500:38:53

That's going to make a tart rich, tasty and anxious.

0:38:530:38:57

Look, creme fraiche falls in a certain way. Look at that.

0:38:570:39:01

Look at that bit there. And this is truly island life.

0:39:010:39:06

An island of creme fraiche in the sea of egg.

0:39:060:39:11

I wonder how different life would have been if we'd been connected

0:39:110:39:15

to mainland Europe, and there hadn't been the English Channel?

0:39:150:39:18

-Do you know what I mean?

-German.

-Well, we would have been invaded!

0:39:180:39:23

-Right, mate, next?

-The brown crab meat.

0:39:230:39:27

Now, crab comes in two parts.

0:39:280:39:30

The back, which is full of the brown stuff,

0:39:300:39:33

which I think is one of the great gastronomic gifts to mankind.

0:39:330:39:36

And the white meat. The brown meat goes into the base.

0:39:360:39:40

OK, so that's...so we've got now eggs, the creme fraiche,

0:39:400:39:45

and now we've put the brown crab meat.

0:39:450:39:48

Don't forget the base!

0:39:520:39:54

-Take the beans out...

-Taking care not to burn your mitts.

0:39:540:39:58

It's cooked, lovely. What we still need to do is firm it up a bit more.

0:40:020:40:06

We'll pop that back into the oven without the beans for 10 minutes.

0:40:060:40:10

Keep an eye on it, we don't want to burn it.

0:40:100:40:12

-Lovely, mate.

-Yeah.

0:40:190:40:21

Look at that!

0:40:240:40:25

It's like a well-formed digestive, which is what we want.

0:40:250:40:28

-Now, in here, our leeks go.

-Puts me beans back.

0:40:300:40:34

And again, just whisk them in.

0:40:390:40:42

The white crab meat mixture goes into the base,

0:40:420:40:45

and the leeks and brown meat mixture on the top.

0:40:450:40:49

Starting from the middle.

0:40:490:40:50

-Look, a couple of little'uns, Kingy.

-Perfect, dude.

0:40:560:40:59

It's what you call cooks' perks, waste nowt..

0:40:590:41:02

-It's a thing of joy, isn't it, really?

-It's lush, man.

0:41:020:41:06

And top with grated cheddar. Cooks' perks, cooks' perks.

0:41:060:41:10

We're not worried about these overflowing, these are just for us.

0:41:100:41:14

Pop that into an oven for about half an hour at 160 degrees Celsius.

0:41:140:41:19

-Ready.

-Steady.

-Go.

0:41:190:41:21

-Smells great.

-It does. That is... Look at that, man!

0:41:250:41:30

-It's epic!

-Yes!

0:41:300:41:32

-That's beautiful, isn't it?

-Look how it's bubbling away. Ohh!

0:41:320:41:36

The crust is perfect.

0:41:380:41:40

-Now you could serve this warm, couldn't you?

-You could.

0:41:420:41:45

I think it needs to cool a little bit.

0:41:450:41:47

-It just needs to be like blood warm.

-Yes, it does.

0:41:470:41:50

-Cup of tea, then.

-Aye.

-Might as well.

0:41:500:41:52

Time for snackaroonies.

0:41:580:42:00

The leek and crab tart. Thank you. It's a good cutter, isn't it?

0:42:020:42:07

And that base is so thin.

0:42:070:42:11

-Oh, yes! Oh, it's crisp, the bottom's crisp.

-It is!

0:42:110:42:15

-Beautiful.

-Right.

-Bon appetit.

0:42:150:42:17

You know, our great British eating crab, it's punching through

0:42:190:42:23

all those flavours and keeping a taste of its own.

0:42:230:42:26

It is. A truly great British harvest of the sea, man. Fantastic.

0:42:260:42:31

So whether you stop in Morecambe Bay to sample potted shrimps...

0:42:350:42:39

Or venture to Ventnor on the Isle of Wight for fresh crab and chips...

0:42:390:42:43

Or head to our capital city to buy fresh fish

0:42:430:42:46

from our famous Billingsgate market...

0:42:460:42:49

..there's not a corner of our beautiful British Isles

0:42:490:42:51

that will fail to provide you with fabulous fresh fish.

0:42:510:42:56

We love it!

0:42:560:42:57

And to find out more...

0:42:570:42:59

..visit:

0:42:590:43:00

..to discover some amazing facts about the history of food.

0:43:030:43:07

And to find out how to cook up the recipes in today's show.

0:43:070:43:11

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:43:280:43:31

E-mail [email protected]

0:43:310:43:33

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