Herbs and Spices James Martin: Home Comforts


Herbs and Spices

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If there's one thing I look forward to at the end of a busy day,

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it's the thought of getting back to my kitchen at home.

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For me, nothing beats cooking some simple, heart-warming, food.

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Oh, oh, oh! It is so good.

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The kind of no-nonsense grub that brings people together.

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ALL: Cheers, everyone.

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The dishes I turn to when I want to put a big smile on everyone's face.

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These are my home comforts.

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I think home cooking has been transformed

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over the last 20 years

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by the amazing range of ingredients that we can now grow and buy

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in the UK.

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Whether you pick them fresh from your garden or buy them

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ready-made in the shops,

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as a nation, us Brits, have totally fallen for

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fresh herbs and fragrant spices.

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Whether it's the zingy taste of lemon verbena

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or the beautiful sweetness of fresh basil, the options are endless.

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It's just a matter of knowing which ones to choose.

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Get the right blend of herbs and spices

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and you can turn a good meal into a great one.

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Today, I'll be cooking dishes from the States and India.

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Food historian Ivan Day takes a leaf out of the oldest cookbook

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in Britain.

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And we meet a woman who forages for the herbs we've all forgotten.

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The majority of things that you regard as weeds are actually

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wild ingredients.

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But first, for me, the Italians are the masters

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when it comes to using fresh herbs.

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Using basil in the pasta, in the filling

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and in the pesto,

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my basil tortellini with ricotta and pine nuts

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is a celebration of one of the tastiest and most versatile herbs.

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Basil has to be one of my favourite herbs

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to either grow in the garden

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or to use in cooking in general, and I'm going to create a wonderful

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little pasta dish, one with a little twist, which I think you'll love.

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So the first thing I'm going to make is my pasta.

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'I'm using about 200g of fine grade 00 flour.

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'Make a well in the middle, crack in a couple of eggs

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'and mix it all together by hand.'

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Now, I'm not going to add any salt, any oil, anything like that,

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just mix the two ingredients together.

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Once you've got one egg almost mixed in, then we can add the other.

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Now, it's better to do this by hand

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because you actually can understand when the pasta's right and

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when you need to add a little more liquid or a little bit more flour.

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And you can almost tell when the pasta dough is ready because it

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actually brings everything together off the bench...

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..and the texture starts to firm up a little bit,

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and, really, you've got the pasta dough done.

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It's as simple as that. It doesn't take very long to do at all,

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but what it does need is time to rest.

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To do that, just clingfilm it and pop it in the fridge.

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Now, I've got one that's in here.

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The texture is now perfect.

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It goes a little bit more pliable, a little bit nicer to work with.

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Now scatter the work surface with flour and you can start

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rolling half the dough through one of my favourite kitchen gadgets.

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These pasta machines often gather dust in kitchen cupboards

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but they need to be used.

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Get it out and use it.

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The more you do it, the more confident you get to work with it.

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Each time you do it, just a small amount of flour.

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Too much flour, you end up drying it out.

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And then you keep going all the way through your settings.

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Every time I use this, it just reminds me so much

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of when I was a kid at Malton swimming baths.

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But back then, after you finished swimming,

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when you were at school, you put your shorts through the mangle.

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When your dough's nice and thin,

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you can do a nifty little trick with some basil leaves.

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Pop them on top of the pasta,

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fold them in with the leaves inside the pasta, then roll through again.

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And every time you do it, it's kind of stretching the leaves.

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Looks fantastic.

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Once the basil pasta's rolled out - to the thinnest you can get it -

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grab a pastry cutter and we can start making our tortellini.

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So, once I've got to that stage, you can fill it with whatever you want.

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Basil has some really subtle peppery

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and sweet notes that will balance perfectly with the creamy ricotta.

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The secret with Italian food, I always think,

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is the quality of the ingredients.

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It's just simply cooked.

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And because of this, you can

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really appreciate the flavours of the basil.

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And then you want a tiny bit of water.

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Just dab almost like half the edge of the pasta dough.

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Flip one half over, make sure it's all nicely sealed.

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Like that. And then around your thumb or your finger,

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you just basically fold this around.

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Round that way and round that way

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and the water sticks the pasta at either end.

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So you've got your wonderful little...

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..tortellini.

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So, the pasta and the filling are flavoured with the basil,

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but where you get the real full effect of the herb, is in the pesto.

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Now, traditionally this would be done in a pestle and mortar

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but, for this one, I'm just going to use a blender,

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cos it's going to really take as long as the pasta takes to cook.

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To 50g of fresh basil leaves, I'm adding 10g of toasted pine nuts,

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a clove of garlic and 25g of grated Parmesan cheese.

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Now I'm going to use two types of oil for this.

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Always Italian olive oil, of course.

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I'm going to use a little bit of extra virgin.

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But then, mainly some plain olive oil

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because I want the flavour of the basil to come out

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and I think the extra virgin is too strong.

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Now, to cook the pasta, all you do

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is drop it into salted boiling water.

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This is going to take about two to three minutes to cook.

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At the same time, just blitz the pesto.

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That's just about perfect. So the pasta's now cooked.

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Drain it off.

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Put it back in the pan.

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Mix that together, keep it on the heat

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and almost finish off the cooking of the pasta in the pan.

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Garnish the dish with some toasted pine nuts and some ground pepper.

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And then, really, you just want to serve it

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exactly like the Italians do.

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Not poncey, just relying on the lovely flavour you've got.

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Simple as that. And then finally, of course,

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just a little flourish of Parmesan cheese.

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This dish really epitomises everything that's great

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about Italian cooking.

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Great pasta, a lovely ricotta, but the key to this is fresh basil.

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And the flavour you get from it is just fantastic.

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For me, the flavour of basil works on so many different levels.

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And when you use it with some simple, Mediterranean ingredients,

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you've got the perfect recipe to showcase its many talents.

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Now, basil is a very familiar ingredient, but there are still

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plenty of great herbs out there just waiting to be discovered.

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Lavender is one that's gradually creeping into our cooking.

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One of the very few people growing edible lavender in Britain

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is Hampshire farmer Richard Norris.

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And his love affair started at a very young age.

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As a child, I had been very interested in gardening.

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Took over part of my parents' garden aged seven.

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By ten, I could give you the Latin name of any plant in the garden.

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Richard took up lavender farming,

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turning his passion for plants into a business.

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But we quickly discovered that you really have to,

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as the accountants say, add value and sell finished products.

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So he created two lavender farms.

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One farm produces traditional essential oils

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and the other grows several varieties of edible lavender,

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with some unusual flavours on offer.

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This variety is Blue Mountain White.

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Along with a lot of the pink lavenders,

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has a vaguely mushroomy scent.

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Not unpleasant.

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If you use this with something like redcurrant,

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infused it in that, to create a sauce to go with game,

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I think that would be a very interesting flavour.

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In contrast, it's lavender Grosso.

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If you were to use this in cooking for ice cream or a sorbet,

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it would be incredibly refreshing.

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Unlike most herbs, the flavour comes from the flowers, not the leaves.

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So here, this bunch is ready for drying,

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either to dry and keep as a bunch

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or to rub off the stem and use for cooking.

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Rubbing the flowers off the stalk in this way, by hand,

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is a very gentle process.

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It results in very little stalk or leaf in here.

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Lovely clean product,

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absolutely perfect for using with food.

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A whole range of delicious lavender-flavoured goodies

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are served in Richard's cafe,

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which is right on site within a whiff of the fields.

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These sweet treats are flavoured with milk or water

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that's been infused with the flower heads.

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I've ordered a lavender scone, really gorgeous taste of lavender.

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More kind of perfumey of lavender than I thought it would be

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-but, you know, really delicious.

-Really nice.

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Chef Toby also loves finding new ways to use

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the herb in savoury dishes.

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I think lavender is fantastic to experiment with.

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It's a very versatile herb, it can be put in both sweet

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and savoury dishes.

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Surprisingly, it goes with prawns and it complements lamb perfectly

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without making it bitter or overpowering.

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Today, Toby's making a marinade of lavender, thyme,

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freshly-squeezed lemon, honey, melted butter

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and olive oil for his own take on honey roast chicken.

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It brings a depth of earthiness to the dish

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and it really complements the meat.

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After just 20 minutes in the oven, it's ready for the table.

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Well, I chose to have the chicken today.

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I like the flavour. It smells nice too,

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there's a good aroma of lavender from it.

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But when you taste it, it's not overpowering.

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It definitely adds to the experience

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and leaves a nice taste in the mouth afterwards. Very clean.

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It's pretty to look at too, so I've got a pretty lunch!

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SHE LAUGHS

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I've used lavender in savoury dishes myself,

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but I think its flavour has even more to offer.

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I've invited Richard over so I can cook him a sweet dish

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which works brilliantly with his fresh, fragrant lavender.

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This lavender creme caramel with lavender shortbread is

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the perfect pudding to showcase the subtle flavours of this

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underused but delicious herb.

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Now, I've got loads of lavender in my garden, I love it.

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Is there two distinct types between the culinary lavender

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and the ones you use for oil?

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Because I was told not all lavender you can eat.

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Is that right?

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Some lavenders - you wouldn't want to.

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-It's like chewing on a bar of soap?

-Chewing on a bar of soap.

-OK.

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-Others have milder flavours.

-Right.

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I thought, with this, I'd do a creme caramel with a nice

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little shortbread to go with it, something really simple.

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The first thing I want to do is get my caramel on.

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'Put 150g of caster sugar into a saucepan over a high heat

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'and cook it without stirring until it's golden brown.

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'Whilst that's caramelising, we can get on with our custard.'

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And then, in the fridge, I've got some milk and cream.

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I'm using 150ml of whole milk...

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..and 300ml of double cream.

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I'm going to use some of this fantastic lavender,

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just a little bit.

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And it needs to go into the cold milk and cream

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so, as it comes to the boil, it infuses nicely.

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While that's coming to the boil,

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whisk four eggs with another 75g of caster sugar.

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But why lavender for you, then?

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I read an article about the history of commercial lavender growing

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in the UK, and the article just said, you know,

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"Why isn't it done any more?"

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And it was the classic light bulb moment.

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That's what I'm going to do.

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Then, yeah, I became completely obsessed with lavender.

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Right, I'm just going to pour this lovely mixture into here

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and actually pop it in while it's still warm

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cos as it cools,

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it's going to get the flavour out the lavender as well.

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There are so many different types.

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What type is this cooking lavender, particularly?

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Right, that type is called lavender intermedia

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and the variety is called Grosso.

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We found that it's great in cooking.

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It's quite strong, as you may have found,

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but you just reduce the quantity you use a little bit.

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Now, my lavender's not too bad in the garden.

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It's about six to seven years old

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and it's starting to look a bit withered.

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Do you have to cut the crops down? I mean, how do you treat it?

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In the wild, lavender is grazed by animals,

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so it responds, therefore, to quite a good, hard pruning.

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'Adding a splash of water dilutes the melted sugar,

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'making it less sticky and easy to pour.

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'When it's the consistency of golden syrup,

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'it's ready to go into the moulds.'

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Now, what this is going to do is set while it's in the moulds.

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'Lavender is a strong herb and I don't want to let the flowers

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'infuse for too long, so I'm straining them out with a sieve.

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'To stop these caramels from curdling or cracking,

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'I'm going to cook them in a water bath.'

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So, is it in the same sort of family of heather? Would that...?

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-No.

-What family is it?

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Lavender's in the same family as mint.

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-Mint?!

-Rosemary.

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That's why it grows everywhere in my garden then, lavender and mint.

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Yeah. And, you know, if you look at the stems,

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it's quite interesting, you'll see they're square in cross-section.

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You've probably never noticed it before, but if you look,

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they're all the same.

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So, all you do with this is take the mixture

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and just carefully pour it in.

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Now, you need to make sure the caramel on the base is set,

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otherwise it's just going to go into this dark mush, really,

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more than anything else.

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Fill up these little moulds like that...

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..and then bake it in the oven.

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Now, what it requires is a low oven. That's 300 degrees Fahrenheit,

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about sort of 150 degrees centigrade, for about 45 minutes.

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The reason why I'm doing this recipe in the first place

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is that this was my granny's favourite recipe - creme caramel -

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and she used to make the most amazing shortbread.

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'My gran insisted on unsalted butter.

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'Take 175g and mix it with 100g of icing sugar.

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'I'm still using her recipe

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'but this time I'll be adding some of Richards's lavender.'

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So, just to finish off our shortbread,

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I'm going to do it the old-fashioned way - with a wooden spoon

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rather than a whisk, and you just basically cream the icing sugar

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and the butter together so the butter's nice and soft.

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You almost get it to that sort of texture.

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The whole point about shortbread is the fact that it's short,

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as in, when you break it, it's quite crumbly.

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'To achieve this texture, my gran always used a mixture of flour.

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'200g of plain flour combined with 100g of cornflour

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'gives the best results.'

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This bit needs to be done quite carefully and, in fact,

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it's probably better, to be honest, to do this bit by hand.

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You just work this all together.

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Now, at this stage, I can throw in a little bit of this lavender.

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So you learnt this at your grandmother's?

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This is Granny's cooking down to a T, you see.

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Probably be looking down at me, telling me to do it...

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I'm doing it wrong, no doubt, but...

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'It's best not to use any more flour when rolling out the shortbread.

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'A fraction too much and you can change the texture.

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'Instead, just press it into a buttered tray using your fingers.'

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And I've set the oven about 180 degrees centigrade,

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that's about 350 Fahrenheit, and it wants to cook for about 15 minutes.

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Lavender, where's its natural habitat?

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Its natural habitat, in the main, is the Mediterranean.

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So, hot, sunny climates. Provence, in particular.

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'Whilst we bake the shortbread,

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'I can turn my attention back to the creme caramels.'

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This has just been chilled.

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You can keep it in the water, but they're nice and set.

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The best way to test it when it comes out of the oven

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is just press it like that.

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If it's firm on the top, that means it's cooked all the way through.

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'To take the creme caramels out,

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'run the blade of a knife round the edge of the mould.'

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And then, just with the edge of the knife, lift this to one side

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and then you can flip it out.

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Nice and delicate. You've got a nice, even caramel as well

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on the top.

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And then, for our shortbread.

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The key to this is to cook it without any colour.

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And it is so delicate, so delicious, you almost need a palette knife

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to lift it off, but you just break this off.

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And what I love about this

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is you just serve pieces of this

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just popped on the side.

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No need to add any sugar on the top

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because you've got the lovely caramel to go with it.

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And there you have it, the cold creme caramel.

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-Looks fantastic.

-Looks pretty good.

0:18:410:18:44

-But the lavender really works.

-Really does.

0:18:470:18:49

I was actually surprised how little lavender you put in.

0:18:490:18:53

I don't think it needs a lot, I think that's the key to it.

0:18:530:18:55

And that's... I'm hoping that people use more of it

0:18:550:18:59

because it is a fantastic culinary ingredient

0:18:590:19:02

and one that you can grow in your garden.

0:19:020:19:04

It's lovely.

0:19:040:19:05

Lavender might not seem the obvious flavour to add to our food

0:19:070:19:11

but it really works.

0:19:110:19:12

A subtle creamy hint of lavender in the creme caramel is perfect

0:19:130:19:17

with the aromatic sweetness of the shortbread.

0:19:170:19:20

This is one dessert I'll definitely be making again.

0:19:210:19:24

Herbs and spices bring our everyday cookery to life,

0:19:270:19:31

and with a number of cuisines available in the UK today,

0:19:310:19:34

there are lots of flavours for us to try.

0:19:340:19:36

But spicing up our meals is nothing new.

0:19:360:19:39

Food historian Ivan Day is at the medieval manor house

0:19:450:19:48

Gainsborough Hall, in Lincolnshire, where he's discovering how

0:19:480:19:52

top cooks in the Middle Ages created surprisingly exotic dishes.

0:19:520:19:56

In the last 100 years, we've learned so much from Indian cooks

0:19:580:20:02

about herbs and spices,

0:20:020:20:04

but if we go back to the Middle Ages,

0:20:040:20:06

the food was just as spicy then as it is in your local tandoori.

0:20:060:20:11

I'm going to rustle up a couple of dishes which will show

0:20:120:20:15

how medieval cooks used herbs and spices.

0:20:150:20:19

A spicy stew and a lovely herby salad.

0:20:190:20:23

Both these recipes are from the very earliest English cookery book,

0:20:240:20:29

a manuscript which was first written in the 1390s by the master cook

0:20:290:20:34

of Richard II.

0:20:340:20:36

The book is called The Forme Of Cury,

0:20:360:20:40

which really means 'the method of cookery.'

0:20:400:20:43

The first recipe is a stew, which is called a brewet of Alamayn,

0:20:450:20:50

which literally means a German stew.

0:20:500:20:53

This is a very spicy goat stew.

0:20:560:20:58

In fact, it will remind you very much of Oriental food

0:20:580:21:02

as we understand it today. There's some ginger in it,

0:21:020:21:05

which will be familiar to most people but, more unusually,

0:21:050:21:09

one of the main condiments in it is this stuff, which is galingale.

0:21:090:21:13

It's a very pungent, quite hot, quite gingery flavour.

0:21:130:21:18

Generous amounts of both ginger and galingale

0:21:180:21:21

were rubbed into the goat meat,

0:21:210:21:23

which had been cut into bite-size pieces.

0:21:230:21:25

It's looking great.

0:21:260:21:27

It's so surprising, isn't it, that in England,

0:21:270:21:30

seven centuries ago, we were cooking food like we enjoy now.

0:21:300:21:34

Just as many of our favourite Asian dishes feature coconut milk,

0:21:360:21:39

this medieval recipe used almond milk as the stock.

0:21:390:21:43

It was a very important constituent in medieval culinary art

0:21:450:21:50

because it was a substitute originally for animal milk,

0:21:500:21:54

but then became established as a really delicious

0:21:540:21:57

vehicle for cooking everything in, from fish to meat.

0:21:570:22:00

When the almonds had been ground, hot water was added.

0:22:020:22:05

Then the whole lot was put through something called a jelly bag,

0:22:050:22:08

which was basically an elaborate medieval sieve.

0:22:080:22:12

I'm literally milking it and squeezing all of the goodness

0:22:130:22:16

out of the almonds into the bowl without getting any nuts in my mix.

0:22:160:22:21

Once the meat and the almond milk had been prepared,

0:22:260:22:28

it was time to cook the brewet over an open fire.

0:22:280:22:32

Onion and the finely-diced meat were fried in oil

0:22:320:22:35

and then the almond milk was added.

0:22:350:22:37

My brewet of Alamayn is going to take about an hour to cook.

0:22:370:22:41

There's one other stage, which is to use one more spice,

0:22:410:22:46

which is a rather unusual one called alkanet.

0:22:460:22:50

Traditionally, alkanet roots were powdered

0:22:500:22:52

and used as a fabric dye and food colouring.

0:22:520:22:55

It gives a brilliant crimson and was in use in Europe

0:22:550:22:59

well before cochineal came from Central America in the 16th century.

0:22:590:23:03

To extract the dye,

0:23:040:23:05

a little pot called a chafing dish was filled with embers.

0:23:050:23:10

Powdered alkanet and oil were gently warmed over it

0:23:100:23:12

until the red dye came out.

0:23:120:23:14

While that's happening, I'm going to go

0:23:170:23:19

and make what is Britain's very earliest salad.

0:23:190:23:23

This recipe is for something which is very simply called salat.

0:23:250:23:30

This 14th-century salad contains 14 different herbs.

0:23:300:23:35

The one that I like the most is a plant which

0:23:350:23:37

I feel could be used a lot more, and it's called purslane.

0:23:370:23:43

It's got a lovely, succulent texture and a slightly acidic taste.

0:23:430:23:48

The salad also had more familiar ingredients like watercress,

0:23:500:23:54

parsley, fennel, mint, rosemary and purple sage.

0:23:540:23:59

I can smell that from here and it's really powerful,

0:23:590:24:02

but adds a nice bit of colour, actually, to the salad.

0:24:020:24:05

The dish was given extra bite by scattering it with garlic,

0:24:060:24:10

spring onions, chives and leeks.

0:24:100:24:14

The final strong-flavoured herb is this one,

0:24:140:24:17

known in the medieval period as herb of grace, or rue.

0:24:170:24:22

It's a very, very pungent herb, more used in medicine

0:24:220:24:26

but very popular in salads from the Roman times

0:24:260:24:29

right through to the medieval period.

0:24:290:24:31

The finishing touch was a decoration of bright blue borage flowers

0:24:310:24:35

around the edge of the plate.

0:24:350:24:37

For a medieval cook in the royal household, it wasn't

0:24:380:24:41

enough for their food to taste delicious and exotic -

0:24:410:24:45

it also had to look amazing.

0:24:450:24:48

For a very unusual and final flourish,

0:24:480:24:51

medieval lords like a lot of colour on their plate,

0:24:510:24:54

so this is the alkanet oil.

0:24:540:24:56

So what I'm going to do is just drizzle it,

0:24:560:25:00

see if I can get a nice marbled effect.

0:25:000:25:03

My brewet Alamayn is ready, I can't wait to have a taste.

0:25:050:25:09

So this is the medieval style of dining,

0:25:090:25:12

which is from the tip of the knife.

0:25:120:25:14

Mmm, it's really tender.

0:25:150:25:18

Gingery.

0:25:180:25:19

Very tasty.

0:25:210:25:22

There's a slight hint of almonds in the background.

0:25:220:25:26

Now, the salad, I think, is incredibly attractive.

0:25:260:25:30

And that's as good, if not better, than most English restaurant salads.

0:25:330:25:39

A tremendous range of flavours in there.

0:25:390:25:42

With all the spice in this stew and all 14 herbs in this salad,

0:25:420:25:47

I don't think you can get more spicy or herby than this.

0:25:470:25:51

Exploring and copying how our ancestors used herbs

0:25:520:25:55

and spices is made much easier when they leave a written record.

0:25:550:25:59

But a lot of herb and spice blends have historically been

0:26:020:26:05

closely-guarded secrets.

0:26:050:26:07

Fortunately, I'm very happy to pass on my recipe for a succulent

0:26:080:26:12

and spicy Southern-fried buttermilk chicken

0:26:120:26:15

with tomato and sweetcorn salsa.

0:26:150:26:18

This has to be one of my ultimate favourite TV meals

0:26:210:26:24

that you can just dive into while watching your favourite programme -

0:26:240:26:27

a Southern-fried chicken.

0:26:270:26:30

'First, we need to prepare our bird.'

0:26:300:26:32

And it's quite simple.

0:26:320:26:34

You've got four pieces of dark meat, four pieces of white meat

0:26:340:26:37

on a chicken, so the first thing you do is remove the legs.

0:26:370:26:40

And just crack the legs open,

0:26:400:26:42

you end up with this little muscle underneath.

0:26:420:26:44

This is called the little chef's eye or a little oyster.

0:26:440:26:47

Insert the knife underneath

0:26:470:26:48

so you gather that up as well, and cut that through.

0:26:480:26:52

You don't really have to cut through any bones at all.

0:26:520:26:55

All you're doing is following the joints.

0:26:550:26:57

Cut out that little chef's eye again the other side

0:26:580:27:01

and you end up with two nice pieces of dark meat.

0:27:010:27:04

To turn them into four pieces, find the knuckle, cut through

0:27:040:27:09

and you've got a thigh and a leg.

0:27:090:27:12

It's much simpler to fillet the white meat.

0:27:120:27:15

Just take off the breasts and then cut them in half.

0:27:150:27:18

Fried chicken can be a bit dry,

0:27:190:27:21

but this next step guarantees that your meat remains moist and tender.

0:27:210:27:26

And the marinade is really simple.

0:27:260:27:29

It uses buttermilk, and it's one of the ingredients that you don't

0:27:290:27:33

really use that much, but I love this stuff.

0:27:330:27:36

A good pinch of salt and that's it.

0:27:380:27:41

There's nothing else that goes in this marinade at all.

0:27:410:27:44

You just chuck the chicken in.

0:27:440:27:46

Pop this in the fridge overnight.

0:27:470:27:49

I've got one done already that we can use right away.

0:27:490:27:52

The Chinese call this velveting.

0:27:540:27:56

It's actually to soften the chicken before it cooks.

0:27:560:28:00

As tender as our chicken will be,

0:28:000:28:02

the main event of this dish has got to be

0:28:020:28:04

the unique blend of herbs and spices that go into my spice rub.

0:28:040:28:09

To start, take 125g of plain flour and grate in the zest of a lemon.

0:28:090:28:14

You can vary the amounts of spices to suit your own personal taste,

0:28:150:28:19

but after a bit of experimentation, I've settled on

0:28:190:28:21

one and a half teaspoons of the following.

0:28:210:28:24

For a bit of heat, smoked hot paprika and mustard powder.

0:28:240:28:29

And I just love the flavours you get from celery salt.

0:28:300:28:33

And this is made just by using sea salt, dried celery bulb

0:28:340:28:39

and some cumin, so it's got a little bit of spice in there as well.

0:28:390:28:43

Dried thyme.

0:28:440:28:45

Oregano, or as they call it, "orig-ano".

0:28:480:28:50

And a good squidge of black pepper.

0:28:500:28:52

The first time I came across Southern-fried chicken,

0:28:560:28:58

I fell in love with it, really, mainly because of the people

0:28:580:29:01

that I was with. I was with the Amish community

0:29:010:29:03

and I was staying there for about four to five days working.

0:29:030:29:06

Everything was ploughed by hand, either by hand or with horses.

0:29:060:29:09

It was just unbelievable. They go everywhere by skateboard

0:29:090:29:12

and scooter, push scooter, like these things.

0:29:120:29:16

But I thought it was just a fantastic sort of experience.

0:29:160:29:19

So often in the States, this is just simply deep-fried,

0:29:200:29:24

which is fine.

0:29:240:29:26

And one of the recipes that I learnt while I was out there

0:29:260:29:29

that I ordered at a cafe was deep-fried chicken.

0:29:290:29:32

I thought I was going to get this.

0:29:320:29:33

What I ended up with was just a whole chicken,

0:29:330:29:37

thrown in a deep-fat fryer, that was it.

0:29:370:29:39

Nothing else on it - just a chicken, which was interesting.

0:29:390:29:44

Now we just lift this out the marinade.

0:29:460:29:48

You need some of this marinade on there to enable our spice,

0:29:480:29:52

dry rub mixture, to stick to it.

0:29:520:29:55

Just wash my hands.

0:29:550:29:56

Pour some veg oil in the bottom of a frying pan

0:29:570:30:00

and put it onto a low heat.

0:30:000:30:01

It's not deep-fried fully, it's almost shallow-fried

0:30:010:30:04

and then finished off in the oven. That way you get it nice and crisp.

0:30:040:30:07

You've got to make sure the chicken is cooked.

0:30:100:30:12

And I find that when you bake it in the oven as well,

0:30:120:30:14

it gets it nice and crisp.

0:30:140:30:15

And once you've got it frying away like that,

0:30:190:30:21

you can take the entire lot, including the pan,

0:30:210:30:23

and stick it in the oven.

0:30:230:30:24

It's quite a hot oven, about 400 degrees Fahrenheit,

0:30:240:30:27

200 degrees centigrade.

0:30:270:30:29

This wants to go in there for about 15 minutes.

0:30:290:30:31

While that's cooking, I'm going to quickly knock up a salsa.

0:30:330:30:36

For this, I'm chopping up 300g of tomatoes and two red chillies.

0:30:370:30:42

To cook the salsa, I first need to caramelise 90g of caster sugar.

0:30:430:30:48

What you want is a nice, even caramel.

0:30:490:30:52

You certainly don't want to overcook it,

0:30:530:30:55

because if you overcook sugar, it goes very bitter.

0:30:550:30:58

So once you get a lovely golden brown colour like that,

0:30:580:31:01

you can get all the other ingredients ready.

0:31:010:31:03

So the tomatoes can go in.

0:31:030:31:05

Throw in the chilli.

0:31:050:31:06

Throw in the corn.

0:31:080:31:09

Now keep the pan on the high heat,

0:31:100:31:11

otherwise you'll end up with big lumps of sugar.

0:31:110:31:14

You can see them already starting to form like that.

0:31:140:31:17

Keep it on the heat, they'll all start to dissolve,

0:31:170:31:19

especially when you de-glaze it with vinegar.

0:31:190:31:23

I like using red wine vinegar and a squeeze of lime.

0:31:230:31:26

Leave this simmering away for about eight minutes and it's done.

0:31:280:31:31

Now, just to finish off this salsa, throw in the parsley,

0:31:320:31:37

a good grind of black pepper and a nice big pinch of salt.

0:31:370:31:41

The great thing about this - when you reduce it down,

0:31:420:31:45

you can have this hot or cold,

0:31:450:31:47

which is going to be perfect for our chicken.

0:31:470:31:49

Now, this is what it's all about -

0:31:530:31:55

proper, proper Southern-fried chicken.

0:31:550:31:58

The sweetness of this salsa makes it the perfect partner

0:32:000:32:03

to the savoury spice of the fried chicken.

0:32:030:32:06

But you just serve it in a nice little pot like that and then

0:32:060:32:09

what I like to do is just kind of pour it over the chicken as well.

0:32:090:32:13

And there you have it - Southern-fried chicken,

0:32:130:32:15

or certainly my version of it.

0:32:150:32:17

So often, with us chefs, we try and do things so fancy

0:32:170:32:19

and so elaborate, but...

0:32:190:32:21

..let's go back to basics now and then.

0:32:230:32:25

This is just fantastic.

0:32:250:32:26

Tastes delicious.

0:32:350:32:37

Getting the right balance of herbs and spices

0:32:370:32:39

is a skill many prefer to keep to themselves.

0:32:390:32:42

But cook this tender and tasty fried chicken dish for your mates

0:32:430:32:47

and I guarantee they'll be asking where you got the recipe from.

0:32:470:32:50

Luckily, I've always believed that when food's this good,

0:32:510:32:54

it's far more sensible to share it.

0:32:540:32:56

Recipes like this often include herbs and spices

0:32:570:33:01

that we could never grow here in the UK.

0:33:010:33:03

But the British countryside is actually home to many

0:33:040:33:07

surprisingly flavoursome plants that can easily be used to enhance

0:33:070:33:11

food you cook at home.

0:33:110:33:13

Liz Knight is an expert forager,

0:33:140:33:17

who has taken the time to bottle some of these unique flavours

0:33:170:33:20

and make them available for us to buy and cook with.

0:33:200:33:23

I was a child of the late '70s, early '80s where we were allowed

0:33:230:33:26

to go off on our choppers and go out for the day

0:33:260:33:28

and, you know, I was one of those children who would chew

0:33:280:33:30

blades of grass and would find myself kind of like trying things.

0:33:300:33:33

I kind of developed that passion and that love for the detail of things.

0:33:350:33:39

And everything kind of is... no matter how small it is,

0:33:390:33:42

it's as significant as something that's really big.

0:33:420:33:44

It was around the time of the year 2000.

0:33:460:33:48

I actually spent a summer just reconnecting back to that child

0:33:480:33:51

that was there, you know, picking at blackberries and then

0:33:510:33:53

discovering something else to pick and to making things.

0:33:530:33:56

And then I started volunteering at a day centre.

0:33:560:33:58

The majority of people that went were farming widows.

0:33:580:34:02

My role there was to be an activity officer and to teach them,

0:34:020:34:06

and I swiftly realised, actually, they should be teaching me.

0:34:060:34:09

And so I started learning from them.

0:34:090:34:11

And from there, that real passion came for the flavours

0:34:110:34:14

that grow in Britain.

0:34:140:34:15

There's lots of plants that grow in the wild that you would know,

0:34:210:34:24

that you wouldn't necessarily know were food.

0:34:240:34:26

Clover, for example, is lovely in sweet or savoury dishes.

0:34:260:34:30

Sweet in cordials and syrups and jams, it tastes like honey.

0:34:300:34:35

But if you use it as a savoury ingredient, raw,

0:34:350:34:37

it's part of the pea family and it tastes just like peas.

0:34:370:34:41

The kind of herbs that you can eat don't have to be obscure at all.

0:34:440:34:47

The majority of things that you regard as weeds are actually

0:34:470:34:51

wild ingredients with delicious flavours.

0:34:510:34:53

There's things like this - cleavers, which everybody knows,

0:34:530:34:58

sticks to you, you can't get rid of it from your garden.

0:34:580:35:01

It's the most delicious kind of peppery-flavoured herb.

0:35:010:35:04

When you've gathered the little seed pods, you can use those as a spice.

0:35:040:35:08

You can use it as a tea.

0:35:080:35:09

They're delicious in salads and just used wilted as a vegetable.

0:35:090:35:14

Summer is a particularly fruitful and busy time for Liz.

0:35:150:35:19

There are literally hundreds of flavours that can be picked

0:35:190:35:22

and preserved.

0:35:220:35:23

Today, Liz has picked some sorrel, which she'll combine with

0:35:280:35:31

lilac flowers and lavender in a simple home-made jelly

0:35:310:35:35

that she's going to try out at a village dinner happening later.

0:35:350:35:39

An easy way to make sure that you get good consistency

0:35:390:35:42

and thickness in your leaves is to roll your leaves like a cigar.

0:35:420:35:47

I use a cleaver for my chopping.

0:35:470:35:49

I chop all of my herbs by hand,

0:35:490:35:51

just because I think it gives a nicer texture.

0:35:510:35:53

So I let the jelly cool down, enough to be able to...

0:35:540:35:57

when I put the sorrel in, it doesn't cook it,

0:35:570:36:00

it just suspends it in the jelly and will set beautifully in it.

0:36:000:36:03

It just transforms anything that you eat at this time of year

0:36:030:36:07

into a real celebration of what's going on outside.

0:36:070:36:10

Capturing the essence of summer is just one part of the story.

0:36:120:36:15

Liz's extensive research has seen her develop a range of unique

0:36:160:36:21

foraged products that preserve the seasonal flavours

0:36:210:36:24

of the British countryside all year round.

0:36:240:36:26

But tonight, summer is in the air.

0:36:270:36:30

We're here at Walterstone Village Hall

0:36:310:36:33

where there's a wild feast celebrating the beginning of summer.

0:36:330:36:36

It's about to start. I think people might actually have even started.

0:36:360:36:39

We're running a little bit late.

0:36:390:36:40

But in here is the delicious jelly that's going to go with the lamb

0:36:400:36:43

and lots of things to garnish what's already a pretty wild feast.

0:36:430:36:46

So, hopefully, we're going to make it into a pretty sensational evening.

0:36:460:36:49

But will these hedgerow herbs and spices win this crowd over?

0:36:520:36:56

The little chive flowers and little bits of clover,

0:36:570:37:02

like the red clover that just grows everywhere,

0:37:020:37:04

just adds that kind of extra depth of flavour to something

0:37:040:37:07

like a simple salad. It's really yummy.

0:37:070:37:09

The sun has been out the last few days and over the last weekend,

0:37:090:37:12

and that's what you feel you're tasting right here and now.

0:37:120:37:15

It's a little...a bit like a mint sauce,

0:37:180:37:20

but it's not a mint sauce, it's sorrel and lavender and lilac.

0:37:200:37:24

The jelly tastes of flowers.

0:37:260:37:29

You can taste the lilac in it, it's beautiful.

0:37:290:37:31

It tastes very herby as well. It's absolutely delicious.

0:37:310:37:34

It's just unbelievably fulfilling

0:37:350:37:37

and satisfying to know that meals like tonight are a way

0:37:370:37:41

of keeping the kind of flavours of Britain alive.

0:37:410:37:45

Given the variety of flavours that are growing on our doorstep,

0:37:460:37:49

it's ironic then

0:37:490:37:50

that the spices we use most here in the UK are usually Asian.

0:37:500:37:54

Marinated using chilli, cinnamon, cumin and garam masala,

0:37:570:38:00

my tandoori king prawns with butter sauce is the kind of dish

0:38:000:38:05

that can take these spices to another level.

0:38:050:38:07

You can't do anything with spices without doing something Indian,

0:38:110:38:15

in my opinion, and I'm going to do an authentic-style

0:38:150:38:18

tandoori prawn dish, which is wonderful.

0:38:180:38:21

It's all about the marinade and how you cook it,

0:38:210:38:23

and it's actually really simple to make.

0:38:230:38:26

Start the marinade off with a teaspoon of garam masala...

0:38:270:38:30

..another one of cinnamon, one of chilli,

0:38:310:38:36

and half a teaspoon of cumin.

0:38:360:38:39

The whole point about tandoori food is what you cook it in.

0:38:400:38:44

Normally, it's done in a tandoor clay oven,

0:38:440:38:46

but I'm going to cook it in something slightly different

0:38:460:38:48

cos this is great on the barbecue as well.

0:38:480:38:50

But the whole point about this

0:38:500:38:52

is the lovely marinade that goes with it.

0:38:520:38:54

Taking time to marinate the ingredients

0:38:550:38:57

infuses the full flavour of the herbs and spices I'm using.

0:38:570:39:01

Here, I'm grating in two inches of root ginger and two garlic cloves.

0:39:020:39:07

It's a good tip that my Indian mates told me,

0:39:070:39:12

you get almost like a puree out of the ginger and the garlic

0:39:120:39:16

and it actually absorbs into the meat a lot better.

0:39:160:39:19

And the liquid element of this is some natural yoghurt,

0:39:210:39:25

and I always think this is a great starter for Indian cookery.

0:39:250:39:28

If you really want to do something for the very, very first time,

0:39:280:39:31

then have a go at this because it's relatively easy.

0:39:310:39:34

And the great thing about prawns like these

0:39:350:39:37

is you can prepare them in seconds.

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All you do with these is just peel them.

0:39:410:39:44

And the best way to do that is actually to squeeze the tail

0:39:440:39:48

and the shell just comes off.

0:39:480:39:50

Keep the head on because they look really nice,

0:39:510:39:53

but also there's tonnes of flavour in this as well.

0:39:530:39:55

You don't want to get rid of this.

0:39:550:39:57

Seafood flavours are generally quite mild

0:39:580:40:00

but this marinade will really build on what's already there.

0:40:000:40:04

You can leave this for as little as 20 minutes

0:40:050:40:08

but you get far better results if you let it infuse overnight.

0:40:080:40:11

Now, while they're in there,

0:40:120:40:13

I'm going to create a lovely little sauce to go with this.

0:40:130:40:16

And anybody that knows me, particularly my Indian mates,

0:40:160:40:19

will know that I love that butter sauce

0:40:190:40:21

you get from Indian restaurants.

0:40:210:40:24

Start it off with onions.

0:40:250:40:27

And this is really the key part, I think, to authentic Indian cookery.

0:40:270:40:33

I'm going to fry these onions in what else

0:40:350:40:37

but a good-sized knob of butter.

0:40:370:40:40

So start to colour the onions in the butter

0:40:430:40:47

and then you can make this as hot and spicy as you want.

0:40:470:40:50

I don't like things too hot, so it's only one red chilli,

0:40:510:40:54

and a couple of cloves of garlic for me.

0:40:540:40:56

The best way to do this is just get a touch of colour

0:40:570:41:00

on the onions first and then, after they're coloured, add the garlic.

0:41:000:41:04

If you add the garlic too early, it can burn,

0:41:040:41:06

and once it burns, it goes bitter

0:41:060:41:09

and you'll never get rid of that taste.

0:41:090:41:11

Going to add a touch of spice.

0:41:120:41:14

One of my favourite spices here in my kitchen is cumin.

0:41:140:41:18

Then add the chilli and chop up three tomatoes.

0:41:190:41:25

Now, I'm using fresh tomatoes.

0:41:250:41:26

You can use tinned tomatoes for this, which'll do the job,

0:41:260:41:29

but I've kind of got an abundance of tomatoes at the bottom

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of the garden, so it's a good way to use them up as well.

0:41:320:41:34

When the tomatoes have softened, add 200ml of double cream.

0:41:350:41:39

And grate in a couple of inches of ginger.

0:41:410:41:43

Then give it a quick stir.

0:41:460:41:47

But just to finally add a touch to this,

0:41:510:41:54

I'm going to add some fresh coriander.

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Some black pepper, a good pinch of salt.

0:41:590:42:03

Now you can prepare our marinated prawns for cooking.

0:42:050:42:08

Make sure you skewer them in two spots so they don't fall off.

0:42:080:42:12

Now, traditionally these would be cooked on a tandoor oven,

0:42:130:42:16

which is a clay pit, very hot clay pit,

0:42:160:42:19

but you can do this at home.

0:42:190:42:21

You can use a barbecue but I love this fire pit.

0:42:230:42:25

The flavour you get from it is fantastic.

0:42:250:42:29

'These juicy prawns will cook in a few minutes,

0:42:290:42:31

'but I'm not just relying on the fire pit to flavour them.

0:42:310:42:34

'The herbs and spices have done all that hard work for me.

0:42:350:42:38

'As tasty as they are, it'd be a bit greedy of me not to share them.'

0:42:410:42:45

It's all right, isn't it?

0:42:450:42:46

There's loads of flavour in there.

0:42:460:42:48

You may only use a small amount of different spices

0:42:510:42:53

but the flavour you get from the marinade is something else,

0:42:530:42:56

and cooked like this, it's just off the scale.

0:42:560:42:59

Getting the best out of the dishes you cook at home is far easier

0:43:010:43:05

when you've got the right ingredients to hand.

0:43:050:43:07

Whether you're looking to enhance the flavour, heat,

0:43:100:43:13

or colour of what you're cooking,

0:43:130:43:15

a few well-selected herbs and spices will always do the job.

0:43:150:43:19

You can find all the recipes from the series on:

0:43:220:43:27

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