Slow Cooking James Martin: Home Comforts


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If there's one thing I look forward to at the end of a busy day

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it's the thought of getting back to my kitchen at home.

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For me nothing beats cooking some simple, heart-warming, food.

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Oh-oh-oh, it is so good!

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The kind of no nonsense grub that brings people together.

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Cheers, everyone.

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The dishes I turn to

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when I want to put a big smile on everyone's face.

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These are my Home Comforts.

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I grew up in Yorkshire, so I'll always be a country boy at heart.

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I now live in Hampshire, and for me

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there's nothing better than getting back there and slowing down.

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And my favourite way to unwind is making tasty food at a relaxed pace.

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Our busy lives make us think that every meal has to be quick,

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but when I get home, I like to take my time in the kitchen.

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So I'm going to do something that seems impossible

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in this day and age - slow-cooking.

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On today's show,

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food historian Ivan Day stokes up a Georgian slow cooker.

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We spend three days making the kind of marshmallows

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that dreams are made of...

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It is just like one big, puffy pillow of deliciousness.

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And I'm having fun...

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Mm, mm, mm!

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..as I rediscover the joys of taking it easy in the kitchen.

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This is proper home cooking. Slow-cooking at its best, really.

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Slow-cooking doesn't have to be labour intensive.

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There's nothing easier than throwing a few simple ingredients together

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and sticking them in the oven while you put your feet up.

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And my first recipe is a fantastic example of this approach.

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It's salt crust baked celeriac with creme fraiche and chive dressing.

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Now slow-cooking has to be one of my favourite forms of cooking,

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but this particular way of slow-cooking - salt crust baking -

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has to be one of the best, in my opinion,

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particularly for veg like this.

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This is celeriac, but the key to this is the crust.

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The crust is basically a salty dough

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which is wrapped around the celeriac.

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So start by putting 500 grams of strong white flour in a mixer

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with 200 grams of fine sea salt.

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A good amount of salt.

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That's the amount of salt that we need.

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So basically we make a pastry, but you don't eat it,

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it just imparts so much flavour into whatever you cook it with.

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And then egg whites to bind it.

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And what you're looking for really, is almost like a hot water crust,

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which is what you make pork pies out of, really, and hand-raise them.

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You get that similar sort of texture.

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Add water until it forms a soft dough.

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Now salt baking's nothing new.

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It's done all around the world and I first came across this

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while over in France, but we used to put things like rosemary and

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tarragon and all manner of different sort of flavourings in there.

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This pastry is ready now.

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The texture of this is kind of exactly what we want.

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You get this sort of pliable dough.

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Before you get busy with the rolling pin,

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cut a piece off the dough which you'll use later.

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Then roll out the pastry until it's about a centimetre thick.

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You don't have to worry about it too much, it can be thick.

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Mainly, it doesn't want to be thin cos it doesn't want to split.

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Because the idea behind this is it actually steams inside the pastry,

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which is really the definition of the old pie really, particularly the

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old pork pie because the actual pie crust was never meant to be eaten.

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It was just used as a casing to hold everything inside.

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So this is really sort of the ultimate pot, I suppose,

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that you can cook your celeriac in.

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Once your dough is large enough to wrap around the veg,

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brush the edges with water.

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Then it's time to introduce the star of the show -

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celeriac.

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It's a fantastic veg and what the French love to do with this

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is create a dish called the celeriac remoulade, which is

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a wonderful sort of coleslaw type salad.

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So much flavour in this. This is brilliant for soups as well.

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Normally it's got green shoots on it, cut these off.

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You just dump the celeriac on there, kind of bring this up.

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It's difficult to explain, really, but you're creating a bag.

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Think of Play-Doh, when you were at school.

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Make sure it's nice and sealed in

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and then we'll pop that on our tray.

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When the celeriac is encased in your dough,

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use your small piece of pastry to make a tie on the top of the parcel.

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Now what you need to do now is cook this about 180 degrees centigrade

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and cook it for a good hour and a half,

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so it nicely steams all the way through in the middle.

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And what you end up with...is this.

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It looks fantastic.

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I'm going to serve this with a wonderful little dressing.

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It's so simple to make.

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The dressing is made by whisking 100 grams of creme fraiche

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in a bowl with two tablespoons of olive oil.

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Then season with freshly ground black pepper,

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before chopping your chives.

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If you don't want to put chives with this,

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things like spring onions are really good.

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But you want something onion-y sort of flavoured,

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so even raw red onion would work really well with this.

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A little bit of chives saving a few leftover,

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and you've got this simple dressing like that.

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Almost looks like sort of mayonnaise.

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When your dressing is done, it's time to tackle the pastry parcel.

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There's no real glamorous way of getting into this sort of thing.

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You just give it a whack all the way around,

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just to break it first of all and then you can break off the pastry.

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The whole point about it, when you remove this salt crust,

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you get this amazing smell.

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Once the celeriac has been freed from its pastry casing,

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all you have to do is peel and slice it.

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And you add plenty of this dressing over the top.

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A few bits of chopped chive and then a nice decent amount of watercress.

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But this is just a wonderful little salad

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that would make a great starter, a great complement to a main course,

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but salt baked celeriac.

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The taste is off the scale.

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This celeriac is just so tasty and versatile,

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and slow-cooking it really brings out its delicate flavour.

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It may take a while to bake in its salt crust,

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but once you've tasted it, you'll be glad you took the time.

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I believe that the best things in life are worth waiting for.

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But it's not just the time

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and effort that goes into cooking that makes a difference,

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it's also the care that goes into choosing the right ingredients.

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In this beautiful coastal spot in the New Forest,

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Lisa and Simeon Morgan are patiently rearing a very unusual

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breed of sheep, that only 30 years ago was almost extinct.

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What we've got here is a pen of my Zwartbles sheep.

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'Zwartbles' means black with a white blaze.

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I saw them for the first time when I went down to Cornwall

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with my husband on holiday and I fell in love with them.

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They're obviously very striking to look at and I thought I'd really

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like some of those, but Simeon kept saying, no, I couldn't have any.

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He's an arable farmer, he's not really into animals.

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So eventually, I wore him down and he let me have some and I had five.

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The five sheep all gave birth,

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and soon Lisa had more than she'd bargained for.

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It was soon apparent that I needed to be able to do something

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with the lambs, so I thought,

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"Well I'm going to have to send them to slaughter," and they came back

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and we were really proud of the meat that we'd produced.

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Unlike most commercial sheep

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that are ready for slaughter at six months old,

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this breed are larger than average and take longer to mature.

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They reach their perfect weight at around a year.

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Because these are older, they get a really good marbling.

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The legs are really big and meaty.

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The whole animal is really good for both roasting joints,

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but also slow-cooking as well and once people have tried it,

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they come back for more and more.

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The flavour and texture of the meat vary depending

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on where the animal's grown up and what it's been given to eat.

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The coastal pastures that Lisa's sheep are raised on are full

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of herbs like wild clover, sea aster and lavender.

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We've got some varieties of herbs

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and grasses that really are favoured to this area of land by the sea.

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The salt in the air here, it certainly we think it makes a...

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Adds a little edge to the flavour.

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The five sheep that Lisa started with have grown to a flock of 200.

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What started as a hobby is now a successful business,

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with her lamb being sold in a farm shop

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and supplied to three of the best local restaurants.

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-Hi, David.

-Hello, are you all right?

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-Yes, thank you, how are you?

-Very well, thank you.

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In fact, local chef David Wykes was

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so impressed that he's added lamb to the menu in his fish restaurant.

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The lamb fits into our sort of ethos of dishes very well,

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because the quality is second to none,

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so it wouldn't be on unless the quality was amazing.

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People buy into the locality of the dish.

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It'd probably be more local than a lot of the fish

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that's caught in the Solent because

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the farm is just less than a mile away.

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And David has spent some time preparing a slow-cooked dish

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to showcase Lisa's lamb.

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-Look at that.

-That's amazing. Thank you.

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It's a really interesting combination

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because you've got the lamb which is obviously an earthy flavour,

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but it's also got some really interesting flavours of the sea.

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It's really exciting to think that my lamb

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could be made into such an amazing dish.

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I love to hear about quality food that's produced

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so close to my home in Hampshire.

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So, I've invited Lisa and Simeon over for lunch at my house,

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and I'll be showing them my favourite way to slow-cook lamb.

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So, how did lamb end up on your farm? Cos you're an arable farmer.

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Yeah, I'm an arable farmer, but Lisa always wanted sheep,

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so for her 40th birthday, sheep is what she got.

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Slightly different.

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-Yeah.

-Slightly different, yeah.

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Didn't want jewellery or anything else like that?

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No, no, no. I've always admired these sheep and he wouldn't...

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He kept saying no. Then he really surprised me.

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I had no idea they were coming and they were really

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bought as lawn mowers to start with and as a hobby for me.

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But it has obviously grown into something much more than that.

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I've got an exotic twist on slow-cooked lamb,

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with a dish that will give your spice rack a real workout.

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It's my Indian spiced lamb shoulder with Bombay potatoes.

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Normally with curries you dice it all up but this,

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I'm just going to throw the whole lot in, so it's long slow-cooking,

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about four hours it takes.

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Before you cook the lamb, you need to make the mix of no fewer

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than nine spices to flavour the curry.

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Start by adding cloves, fenugreek seeds, chilli flakes,

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and a cinnamon stick to the grinder.

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We're going to toast off two of them,

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just to get the oils going out the spices.

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Put the cumin and coriander seeds into a dry pan and let them

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toast for about two minutes.

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Then add the toasted spices, fennel seeds,

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and black peppercorns into the grinder before blitzing the lot.

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And once it's powdered, throw in the turmeric.

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And then it's time to turn your attention to the lamb itself.

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Straightaway, I can tell this is sort of an older lamb, really,

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-because of the colour, fundamentally.

-Mm-hmm.

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Does that sort of... I mean, once people taste it, it's fine,

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but people looking at this would think, "Well, you know,

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"that is not the colour of lamb that it should be."

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Yeah, we have to educate people a little bit about the change

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of the colour and the fact that it is taken on longer

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in the process, but it certainly has more flavour, we believe.

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The next step is to add this generous lamb joint to

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a large casserole dish and sear it.

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This is almost at the stage of sort of hogget,

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-isn't it really, this one.

-Yes, yes, yes.

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This particular breed of sheep, they're very slow growing

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and their breed characteristic is very lean meat.

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They're an extensive breed, so then we take them to very nearly

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hogget, to nearly to a year old, if not just over, to get that

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extra flavour and they... If you take them too early,

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they don't finish. You don't get any fat coverage at all

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cos they stay so lean.

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Next, you'll need to make the curry sauce that the lamb will cook in.

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Start by adding a finely chopped onion

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and chopped green chilli to the pan you've seared the lamb in.

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Follow on with garlic and ginger, then the spice mix.

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So out of all the cuts of meat you get from the lamb,

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and you get such a variety, it's like pigs really,

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you can use the entire carcass, what's your favourite?

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I think probably the shoulder is one that I do the slow-cooking

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quite often and I really enjoy mutton leg steaks as well.

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-Mutton leg steaks?

-Yeah.

-You can cook those on the barbecue

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-really nicely as well, can't you?

-Yes, just, they're so easy to cook.

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You know, everyone thinks mutton needs to be cooked

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for hours and hours. I actually prefer mutton leg steaks

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-to beef steak now.

-But it's still got this perception,

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hasn't it, mutton, really? I don't know what it is,

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-cos it's packed full of flavour, but...

-Yeah, definitely.

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When the onion and spices have cooked for two minutes or so,

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add the torn curry leaves and crushed cardamom pods.

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And then I'm going to use this. It's quite an unusual thing to put in

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with this. Generally, I would use this with duck. This is tamarind.

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I don't know if you've ever tried it before.

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It is fantastic sort of stuff when you put it in curries,

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particularly at the beginning.

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I've had this sort of stuff on my travels.

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It goes particularly well if you're going to add coconut to that.

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But what I'm going to do is add some tomatoes

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and use tinned tomatoes as a base together with some stock.

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Throw them in as well.

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I'm also adding a litre of lamb stock to the pot,

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but you can use beef stock instead.

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And then what you do is grab the lamb.

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That's one of the great things with this,

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you just basically cook the entire lot in the pot.

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Cover this over, stick the lid on it,

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and what you want to do is cook this slowly for four hours.

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Now, I don't need to leave you to wait for four hours cos I've

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got one in there. But I'll leave that to one side.

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You can cook it on the stove, so you could just basically bring

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it to the boil, leave it gently simmering for about four hours.

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You can eat this with rice

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but I prefer to serve it with spicy Bombay potatoes.

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Start by boiling cubed potatoes

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and finely chop a clove of garlic and an onion.

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Now I believe you've got a farm shop as well

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-that you've got hand in hand with this.

-I have.

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It's slightly unusual. It's a pop-up farm shop.

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We only open two days a month at the moment which fits.

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-Two days a month?

-Yeah.

-Well, you've got to be quick then,

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-haven't you, really?

-You have got to be quick.

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Ground coriander, cumin, mustard seeds,

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turmeric and chilli powder go into the pan with the onion and garlic.

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It's a lot more intensive than arable farming.

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At least with arable farming you can sort of chill out on an evening

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and relax. But I mean, you must have found it sort of changed your life

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-really, I suppose.

-Yeah. It does have intense periods of work.

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Obviously, lambing time is full-on.

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But at the same time it's very rewarding,

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so you know, if you'd asked me ten years ago would I be a sheep

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and arable farmer, I probably would have said, "No, don't be so silly."

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Once tinned tomatoes have gone in, add the cooked potatoes

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and simmer for another three to five minutes.

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The lamb is almost done.

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All I'm going to do now is add just two little herbs to go with it

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and mint obviously is the one that you want to do with lamb,

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but I'm going to put some coriander in there as well.

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So throw a little bit in there,

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a little bit in here,

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and you can see, as the lamb cooks, it just falls apart in the pot

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and then you can take your chunks of bone out, like that.

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There's no fanciness with this, no poncing around.

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Before you've even tasted this dish, you know

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you're in for a treat because all those spices.

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It makes it smell absolutely amazing.

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It's one of those things that you just put it in the pot

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and forget about it.

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Because it's a curry, it just gets better and better and better

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the more you leave it.

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Try that. Tell me what you think.

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Oh, it's really good.

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All in all it adds up to a slow-cooked meal

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that's bursting with flavour.

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See, I thought in this job I'd seen everything and tasted a lot, but

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it's amazing that 15 miles down the road, you get lamb as good as this.

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I've never tasted lamb as good as that.

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Cooked very well. Very good lamb, cooked very well.

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Yeah, but your shop needs to be open more than two days a month.

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-Yeah, well, that's coming...

-Good.

-..when he buys me some more sheep.

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-THEY LAUGH

-I'll be first in the queue.

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Slow-cooking is an excuse for us to take our foot off the gas a bit.

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It's just a matter of throwing a few ingredients together,

0:18:110:18:14

leaving them to simmer, and chilling out until dinner's ready.

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Food historian Ivan Day has trawled through old recipe books,

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to find an 18th-century take on this more relaxed approach

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to food preparation.

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One of the most ancient forms of slow-cooking is braising,

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which I think most people today would understand as a very slow form

0:18:370:18:41

of cooking in a very, very tightly sealed casserole or saucepan.

0:18:410:18:44

In the past, it was done in a very different way,

0:18:440:18:48

and one of the aims was to cook as slowly as you could,

0:18:480:18:52

but with the smallest amount of fuel.

0:18:520:18:55

I'm going to use a recipe from the 18th century,

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from a truly remarkable book,

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which has the slightly worrying title of The Whole Duty Of A Woman.

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Only about half the book is cookery.

0:19:120:19:15

The other half is to tell women how to behave themselves.

0:19:150:19:20

The recipe I'm going to use is called fowl a la braise.

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Fowl is simply a chicken.

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But let me show you what the 'a la braise' bit means.

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Before the chicken was braised,

0:19:380:19:40

the Georgian cook would practice the ancient art of larding.

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This is a larding pin

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and under here I have some little matchstick strips of bacon fat

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and I'm going to very carefully put one of these into the larding pin.

0:19:540:20:00

So what I do is put the pin through and then hopefully

0:20:000:20:05

if I hold on to this end, it should pop out the other side.

0:20:050:20:11

Larding is a very old technique.

0:20:130:20:15

The earliest records we have are in medieval cookery books.

0:20:150:20:19

Its original purpose was to add succulence to dry meats

0:20:190:20:23

like hare, venison, other game birds, which are lacking in fat.

0:20:230:20:27

As it cooks, the fat melts and it self-bastes.

0:20:270:20:31

When the chicken had been larded, a braising pan was lined with

0:20:340:20:37

butter, bacon and thin strips of veal.

0:20:370:20:41

By putting this meat in the bottom, it will brown with

0:20:410:20:44

the heat of the charcoal, and create its own very nice dark gravy.

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Then it's very simply a case of popping

0:20:500:20:53

the fowl into the middle of the braising pan.

0:20:530:20:56

Everything was braised.

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A whole ham could be braised, a turkey,

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and some of the braising pans are absolutely enormous.

0:21:020:21:06

The recipe suggested adding herbs like basil,

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thyme and bay leaf, along with a piece of bacon for added flavour.

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Onions and a small amount of garlic were then

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sprinkled on top of the chicken before stock was poured in.

0:21:160:21:21

So it's time to put the lid on now.

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It only goes on one way.

0:21:240:21:26

It's got to be really snugly on.

0:21:260:21:28

Once the pot came to the boil, a glass of wine was poured in.

0:21:330:21:36

The lid was put back and then the fun really started.

0:21:400:21:44

Fire shovel, hot charcoal.

0:21:450:21:48

Let me show you how it works.

0:21:490:21:52

So we've got fire underneath and fire on top.

0:21:520:21:55

It's going to get super-heated, the pressure's going to build up,

0:21:550:21:58

cos the lid is so tightly sealed, but it's going to cook very,

0:21:580:22:01

very slowly, so it's going to be succulent,

0:22:010:22:04

juicy, and full of flavour.

0:22:040:22:06

It'll sit there maybe for about two hours

0:22:130:22:16

until the fowl is perfectly cooked.

0:22:160:22:18

While the chicken cooks, Ivan can put his feet up with a good read.

0:22:280:22:33

But I'm not sure his book of Georgian recipes

0:22:330:22:35

and etiquette would top the bestseller list these days.

0:22:350:22:39

The title of this book is The Whole Duty Of A Woman.

0:22:390:22:43

This book was written in a very different world to ours.

0:22:430:22:49

Compared to attitudes to women that we have now,

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the Georgians had a very different approach.

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So, listen to this -

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"An old maid is now thought such a curse as no poetic fury can exceed."

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So if you're out there and you're a young woman in the Georgian period,

0:23:060:23:09

for goodness' sake, find yourself a husband, otherwise you're doomed.

0:23:090:23:13

Of course, it was the whole duty of a woman of any

0:23:220:23:25

household in Britain at this time to make sure that her

0:23:250:23:28

husband's food was not only well dressed, but beautifully presented.

0:23:280:23:32

The all-important decoration consisted of cooked turnip,

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a sprinkling of parsley, and an eye-catching Georgian delicacy.

0:23:390:23:43

These mysterious things were really popular.

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They're pickled barberries, which is a British native fruit that

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was grown in just about every garden in the 18th century.

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They were so popular because of their very bright scarlet colour.

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The recipe gives us various options for sauces.

0:23:590:24:02

I'm going for one which they call a ham coulis.

0:24:020:24:06

Let's see what this chicken a la braise is like.

0:24:110:24:14

It's about the best chicken I've ever eaten, actually. Truly.

0:24:210:24:24

It's a pity that braising of this kind has vanished

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cos the end result is superb.

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There's nothing in this world that beats a British steamed pudding.

0:24:350:24:40

But you can't hurry perfection.

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They taste good because they're cooked slowly.

0:24:410:24:44

My gran's puds were the best I've ever had and I base

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my blueberry steamed pudding with vanilla custard on her recipe.

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Now if you ask me, all the best puddings in the world are always

0:24:550:24:59

the ones that are slow-cooked and one in particular,

0:24:590:25:02

which is definitely my favourite, has to be sponge pudding.

0:25:020:25:06

Now the benefit of this one is I've got some fresh fruit

0:25:060:25:08

from the garden, so you can use blueberries, raspberries,

0:25:080:25:11

strawberries, it's entirely up to you.

0:25:110:25:14

First add 175 grams of softened butter to a bowl with

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the same quantity of both self-raising flour and sugar.

0:25:190:25:23

The important thing is I'm going to use this light brown sugar,

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which I kind of... Every time I taste it...

0:25:260:25:29

I call it Granny's sugar

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cos it's the only sugar that she used to use.

0:25:300:25:32

She used to use it all the time for biscuits.

0:25:320:25:34

It's got kind of a unique flavour and taste.

0:25:340:25:37

Next into the mix is a pinch of salt,

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a teaspoon of baking powder and three eggs.

0:25:410:25:43

Then whisk it all together until it's light and fluffy.

0:25:440:25:47

So really it's like a standard bun mixture, I suppose.

0:25:560:26:00

You've got the texture very similar to that.

0:26:000:26:03

It's pretty good to me. Now for our bowl.

0:26:030:26:05

Exactly the same bowl as what my granny used to use.

0:26:050:26:08

You need to butter it really well

0:26:080:26:10

and this is why I blame her for my butter fetish, I think.

0:26:100:26:13

Because you get a little bit of butter.

0:26:140:26:16

That is a properly buttered dish.

0:26:190:26:22

Then we're going to use some golden syrup.

0:26:240:26:26

You can use black treacle for this

0:26:260:26:28

but golden syrup really does work a treat, particularly with fruit.

0:26:280:26:31

You'll want to add 150 grams of golden syrup to the bowl.

0:26:320:26:36

My granny used to use bucket-loads of this stuff

0:26:360:26:40

cos she used to make the most amazing parkin,

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which is kind of like a cake that us Yorkshire folk

0:26:440:26:48

have around Bonfire Night.

0:26:480:26:50

It's kind of like sticky toffee pudding

0:26:500:26:52

made with oats and golden syrup.

0:26:520:26:54

So, put the blueberries in and then we can top it...

0:26:550:26:59

..with this lovely sponge.

0:27:000:27:02

Of course, you have to seal the top of the pudding bowl,

0:27:060:27:09

and to do that you lay a piece of grease-proof

0:27:090:27:11

paper on a sheet of tinfoil that's the same size.

0:27:110:27:14

Even though it's grease-proof, you still take some butter over the top.

0:27:170:27:21

Then you make a crease in the centre of both sheets,

0:27:220:27:25

so that there's a slight overlap.

0:27:250:27:26

And the idea behind this is there's just a little bit of give in this.

0:27:280:27:31

You don't want it too tight, otherwise it compresses it

0:27:310:27:34

and it makes the sponge too tough.

0:27:340:27:37

And this is the bit, the only bit that my gran would let me do

0:27:370:27:40

when I was younger, so I've had a bit of practice.

0:27:400:27:43

Hold the foil cover in place by tying

0:27:430:27:45

a piece of string around the top of the pudding bowl.

0:27:450:27:48

To steam the pudding, I half fill a large saucepan with cold water.

0:27:500:27:54

Then use my gran's old trick of putting

0:27:550:27:57

a cloth into the bottom of the pan with an upturned plate on top of it.

0:27:570:28:02

And if you do this, it just allows the sponge to come

0:28:020:28:05

away from the water, but mainly away from the base of the pan.

0:28:050:28:09

But another trick she had,

0:28:090:28:11

she was full of them,

0:28:110:28:13

is then take another sheet of tinfoil

0:28:130:28:16

and just fold this up into sort of a long piece

0:28:160:28:20

and the idea being you just place this in the bottom

0:28:200:28:25

like this, and then when you pop your pudding in,

0:28:250:28:30

it's much easier to take it out afterwards.

0:28:310:28:35

How cool is that?

0:28:350:28:36

Then all you need to do is cover it, bring it to the boil,

0:28:370:28:40

and simmer for two hours, making sure you top up the water as needed.

0:28:400:28:45

Now I'm going to serve this with a custard.

0:28:450:28:47

Now, even though we're in Yorkshire, back then, some 20 years ago,

0:28:470:28:51

my granny still used to make custard properly.

0:28:510:28:54

The recipe stays exactly the same.

0:28:560:28:59

Full fat double cream, full fat milk.

0:28:590:29:03

There's no skimping with this recipe.

0:29:030:29:05

You need to use 250 mls of both cream and milk.

0:29:050:29:09

Basically you heat this up with some vanilla.

0:29:100:29:12

Now, I'm being quite fancy with this stuff.

0:29:120:29:14

This is Bourbon vanilla, it comes from Madagascar. Soft vanilla pods.

0:29:140:29:18

This stuff is quite expensive, but if you buy the big fat pods,

0:29:180:29:21

the Bourbon vanilla, you get much more value for your money.

0:29:210:29:26

Remove the seeds from the vanilla pod and add both to the milk

0:29:260:29:29

and the cream.

0:29:290:29:31

Then leave it on a medium heat until it comes to the boil.

0:29:310:29:35

And then we're going to combine that with a mixture of sugar and eggs

0:29:350:29:38

and the amount of eggs is actually quite important

0:29:380:29:41

because that's how much the custard sets.

0:29:410:29:44

So for this I'm going to use about six eggs, really,

0:29:440:29:47

and I just want the yolks.

0:29:470:29:49

And it's much easier to separate them like this.

0:29:490:29:52

There's no need for fancy kitchen gadgets.

0:29:520:29:54

There's definitely no need for this palaver...

0:29:540:29:57

all this shell to shell business.

0:29:570:30:00

When you've separated the eggs,

0:30:020:30:04

whisk in the yolks with 110 grams of caster sugar, and then

0:30:040:30:08

when the milk and cream mixture is boiled, add it and keep stirring.

0:30:080:30:12

And then we pour this back into the pan.

0:30:170:30:20

Now this is the crucial bit.

0:30:200:30:21

You want to warm this enough to thicken.

0:30:210:30:24

You certainly don't want to boil it.

0:30:240:30:26

If you boil it, you end up with scrambled eggs.

0:30:260:30:28

Keep your eye on it.

0:30:280:30:30

It starts to thicken up

0:30:300:30:32

and as it starts to coat the back of the spoon, it's just about ready.

0:30:320:30:37

All we can do is literally just pour this back into the bowl

0:30:370:30:41

and you can see the texture's totally changed.

0:30:410:30:44

All you need to do now is let the custard cool

0:30:450:30:48

and leave the sponge steaming.

0:30:480:30:50

That gives me precious time to catch up on the gardening.

0:30:500:30:53

And after that, I'm more than ready for a bowl of delicious pudding.

0:30:590:31:02

Oh-oh-oh! Look at that!

0:31:050:31:09

Mm-mm-mm!

0:31:090:31:10

This is proper home cooking, slow-cooking at its best, really.

0:31:130:31:17

This is a pud that's full of comforting flavours I love -

0:31:190:31:23

soft, squidgy sponge, delicious fruit and sticky golden syrup,

0:31:230:31:28

all topped off with a creamy home-made custard.

0:31:280:31:32

You see, I love watching cookery programmes because

0:31:330:31:37

when you're supposed to be tasting this,

0:31:370:31:39

you're supposed to be saying how delicious it is.

0:31:390:31:42

I don't need to.

0:31:440:31:45

Because we're always on the go these days,

0:31:530:31:55

many of us can't prepare time-consuming dishes.

0:31:550:31:58

Fortunately, there are a growing band of home-based UK producers

0:32:030:32:06

putting in the hours, so that we don't have to.

0:32:060:32:09

In Leeds, Philippa Quayle grafts so we can enjoy

0:32:120:32:14

the pleasures of her award-winning handcrafted marshmallows.

0:32:140:32:18

I first started making marshmallows after watching it on the TV

0:32:200:32:23

one evening and people were making marshmallows by hand

0:32:230:32:26

and they weren't... They were making them with different flavours

0:32:260:32:29

and different sizes and I thought, "Wow."

0:32:290:32:32

I just stared at this programme thinking, "I love marshmallows

0:32:320:32:35

"and I have never been able to taste anything like this before."

0:32:350:32:39

So that greedy little part of me thought, "I want to eat those."

0:32:390:32:43

And then the experimental creative side of me said,

0:32:430:32:45

"Right, well, I'm going to have to make them, then."

0:32:450:32:47

So, voila, my little business was born.

0:32:470:32:51

And her little business has quickly expanded

0:32:530:32:56

and now supplies a range of ten flavours to shops all over the UK.

0:32:560:33:01

The main ingredients Philippa uses for her marshmallow are sugar,

0:33:010:33:04

water, glucose and gelatine.

0:33:040:33:07

And this is one cooking process that can't be rushed.

0:33:070:33:11

I wasn't really aware of how long it was going to take me.

0:33:110:33:14

From boiling the sugar to having my finished product in its packet

0:33:140:33:18

and ready to go is actually three days, which is amazing.

0:33:180:33:22

So, that's one day for making up the mixture, another day allowing

0:33:230:33:27

the marshmallows to set and another day to allow the pieces to dry out!

0:33:270:33:31

Philippa can't afford to make any mistakes.

0:33:310:33:35

I like to be really precise cos I know there's

0:33:350:33:38

so much chemistry involved in marshmallow making.

0:33:380:33:41

If you just change one of the ingredients or the weight

0:33:410:33:46

of one of the ingredients, strange things can happen.

0:33:460:33:50

So, I've found my recipe and I stick to it.

0:33:500:33:53

So, I'm just going to put the heat on, full blast.

0:33:550:33:59

The mixture then needs heating to exactly 160 degrees

0:34:010:34:04

to allow the mallow to have the perfect texture.

0:34:040:34:08

I can look into the sugar and it's starting to bubble and boil.

0:34:080:34:12

It's mesmerising. It's the way sometimes you look at clouds

0:34:120:34:15

or sometimes you stare into a fire and, you know, you kind of

0:34:150:34:18

just drift away for a second or two.

0:34:180:34:22

And often in that second or two is

0:34:220:34:24

when an idea can start developing, so it's quite a creative experience.

0:34:240:34:29

And when you're making things from the comfort of your own home,

0:34:290:34:33

there's always room for a bit of experimentation.

0:34:330:34:35

Today, Philippa is making a new mango and passion fruit recipe that

0:34:370:34:41

she's going to try out on the public a little later on.

0:34:410:34:44

Philippa adds gelatine to the mango puree

0:34:500:34:52

to ensure that the marshmallows have plenty of bounce.

0:34:520:34:55

In it goes. It smells amazing.

0:34:550:34:59

Mm, and that's really lovely mango-y sugar syrup that will whip up

0:34:590:35:05

into a marshmallow fluff.

0:35:050:35:08

To whisk in her bubbles, Philippa has invested in some equipment

0:35:080:35:11

she houses in the family garage.

0:35:110:35:14

But this industrial kit doesn't mean her artisan produce has lost

0:35:140:35:18

that personal touch.

0:35:180:35:19

I'm measuring out passion fruit here.

0:35:200:35:23

It's a freeze-dried fruit powder and it's really zingy.

0:35:230:35:26

It gives a lovely flavour.

0:35:260:35:28

In fact, if you were to eat the freeze-dried fruit powder

0:35:280:35:31

straight off, it's like sherbet.

0:35:310:35:33

This is just a passion fruit paste that I'm making now.

0:35:400:35:43

I'm rippling this through and it gives it quite a nice texture on

0:35:430:35:47

top and it just means that when you cut them, they're not all the same.

0:35:470:35:50

They all look a bit different, each piece, which is

0:35:500:35:53

nice because the ones that are mass-produced in the factories,

0:35:530:35:56

they all look exactly the same.

0:35:560:35:58

These ones have got their own little personality,

0:35:580:36:01

which I think is quite nice.

0:36:010:36:03

So, that's the marshmallows made now and they'll be puffy

0:36:040:36:09

and squashy and delicious by tomorrow.

0:36:090:36:11

By the morning of day two, the marshmallow has set

0:36:140:36:17

and is ready for the next stage.

0:36:170:36:19

It is just like one big, puffy pillow of deliciousness.

0:36:210:36:25

Philippa chops it up into generous bite-sized chunks.

0:36:270:36:30

It's like as if you were to cut through a cloud,

0:36:300:36:33

that's what it would sound like.

0:36:330:36:35

They're lovely and light and fluffy now and if you actually

0:36:370:36:40

picked one up and gave it a little squeeze, it's nice and bouncy.

0:36:400:36:43

But before they are ready to eat, Philippa's marshmallow

0:36:450:36:48

cubes must be left to dry out for another 24 hours.

0:36:480:36:52

Only then will these mango and passion fruit marshmallows be

0:36:530:36:57

good enough to road test at a nearby cafe.

0:36:570:37:00

Let's hope all this waiting has been worthwhile.

0:37:000:37:03

I'm going to start offering them around. Let's see what people think.

0:37:030:37:07

Anybody want to try a new flavour?

0:37:070:37:09

Oh, yeah. Mm.

0:37:090:37:11

-Yeah?

-That is gorgeous.

0:37:110:37:14

-Fruity?

-Loads of passion fruit.

-Yeah, yeah.

-Really good.

0:37:140:37:17

Mm. That is really, really nice.

0:37:170:37:20

Just seeing people's reactions when they eat them is awesome.

0:37:200:37:25

And the fact that I now supply so many shops and delis

0:37:250:37:29

and farm shops around the UK is just amazing,

0:37:290:37:33

and from watching TV and giving it a go and creating my own business,

0:37:330:37:37

I just never would have dreamed this would happen.

0:37:370:37:40

Waiting can be very rewarding, and for me,

0:37:460:37:48

nothing beats a peaceful day spent fishing.

0:37:480:37:51

It forces me to slow right down and take it easy.

0:37:510:37:54

Most people see fish as an ingredient that's cooked in a flash.

0:37:560:38:00

But one of my favourite recipes takes a much slower approach

0:38:000:38:03

and the results are delicious.

0:38:030:38:05

It's my home-smoked trout with feta salad.

0:38:070:38:10

Now for me, curing is one of the best forms of slow-cooking.

0:38:120:38:15

It is actually a form of cooking because the sugar

0:38:150:38:18

and the salt actually seeps into the meat and preserves it.

0:38:180:38:21

For this recipe, you'll need two large trout fillets.

0:38:220:38:25

Now, whenever you're smoking anything,

0:38:250:38:28

particularly the way that I'm going to do it like this

0:38:280:38:30

which is cold smoking, you must cure it first.

0:38:300:38:33

The cure for the fish is made from 200 grams of sea salt

0:38:330:38:36

and 100 grams of sugar.

0:38:360:38:39

Generally using caster sugar and I've seen a lot of people use black

0:38:390:38:42

treacle in this as well, which makes the fish go really dark in colour.

0:38:420:38:47

The next step is to lay out two large pieces of clingfilm

0:38:470:38:50

on to your work surface.

0:38:500:38:52

Then, using a quarter of the curing mixture, make a line in the centre.

0:38:520:38:56

And then taking a fillet, lay that skin side down

0:38:590:39:03

and then just gently sprinkle this over the top.

0:39:030:39:06

Now what's going to happen with this, once it goes in the fridge,

0:39:060:39:09

it actually draws out the moisture of the fish.

0:39:090:39:12

Once it's wrapped up in the clingfilm,

0:39:120:39:15

it'll need to stay in the fridge for 12 to 24 hours.

0:39:150:39:18

When it comes out, the first thing you need to do

0:39:180:39:21

is wash off the excess salt and sugar.

0:39:210:39:23

I can feel already the texture starts to change

0:39:250:39:28

and it almost resembles that sort of smoked salmon that you get.

0:39:280:39:31

Slightly firmer. It's not as if it's cooked, otherwise it'd be soft.

0:39:310:39:36

It's just firmer to the touch, particularly the skin.

0:39:360:39:38

What I'm going to do is smoke it using a DIY smoker.

0:39:380:39:42

Now you can make it with one of these.

0:39:420:39:45

These old bins, a few bricks, a candle

0:39:450:39:48

and a little bit of imagination.

0:39:480:39:50

Yep, you'll need a little bit of imagination

0:39:500:39:53

and a little bit of outdoor space.

0:39:530:39:55

Don't try doing this indoors.

0:39:550:39:57

Start by putting candles or tea lights on to the ground,

0:39:570:40:01

then surround them with bricks.

0:40:010:40:03

Now you'll need this particularly if it's windy.

0:40:030:40:07

I never thought in my wildest dreams, when I started cooking

0:40:070:40:10

when I was eight years old, I would be doing this.

0:40:100:40:13

My mum told me never to play with matches.

0:40:130:40:15

So, I always use a blowtorch.

0:40:150:40:17

Light the candles, before putting the bin over the flames.

0:40:170:40:21

Now you need ones with holes in the bottom, all right?

0:40:210:40:23

It's really quite important cos you want air flow in here as well,

0:40:230:40:26

so stick them on the bricks. And then, in the bottom,

0:40:260:40:29

just going to use a little bit of tinfoil.

0:40:290:40:33

What the tinfoil will do is actually prevent the wood

0:40:330:40:35

from going through the holes, hitting the flame and creating fire.

0:40:350:40:40

The key to getting a great smoked flavour is using oak chippings,

0:40:400:40:43

which you can buy online.

0:40:430:40:45

All you do now is just sprinkle these on the base

0:40:450:40:48

and then what I do is grab a little bit of water, just a touch,

0:40:480:40:54

and just sprinkle the water in the bottom.

0:40:540:40:57

It's all it needs to help it on its way because what you want to

0:40:570:41:00

do with this is just smoulder it first of all.

0:41:000:41:02

If it's too dry, it kind of can catch fire.

0:41:020:41:06

And then finally just stick a barbecue grill

0:41:060:41:09

on the top of the bin and place the fish fillets on top.

0:41:090:41:11

And then, lid on...

0:41:140:41:17

..with a cloth over the top because, as it smokes up,

0:41:180:41:20

you want to keep all that sort of smoke in there really, as well.

0:41:200:41:25

Wander off for an hour and a half and, fingers crossed,

0:41:260:41:30

we should have smoked trout.

0:41:300:41:32

This is fingers crossed. We have the finished article. Look at that!

0:41:400:41:44

It's a beautiful, lovely piece of smoked trout.

0:41:460:41:51

Smells fantastic.

0:41:510:41:53

The best way to serve this is to make a simple salad of beetroot,

0:41:550:41:59

feta and the sliced fish and shallots.

0:41:590:42:01

And then, of course, some peppery, lovely watercress.

0:42:040:42:07

The whole thing is finished off with a drizzle of herby French dressing.

0:42:080:42:12

Just any garden herbs that you want, you just sprinkle that over the top.

0:42:140:42:18

Although this dish takes a bit of time,

0:42:190:42:21

for me, that's all part of the fun.

0:42:210:42:24

And I guarantee that putting the effort in will pay off

0:42:240:42:26

when you taste it for the very first time.

0:42:260:42:28

What I love about this dish is you've got the pepperiness

0:42:280:42:31

of the watercress, the sharpness of the onion,

0:42:310:42:35

but then you've got this delicious, different texture...

0:42:350:42:38

..of the home-smoked trout.

0:42:410:42:42

I'm quite pleased with this. Just one word of advice -

0:42:440:42:47

if you've got guests coming round for dinner,

0:42:470:42:49

hide the bin.

0:42:490:42:51

It's so easy these days to rely on food that's done in a flash

0:42:580:43:01

and eaten just as quickly.

0:43:010:43:04

But every now and then, it's worth taking a more relaxed approach.

0:43:040:43:08

There are so many ingredients that taste amazing

0:43:080:43:11

when they're slow-cooked.

0:43:110:43:12

And you don't need lots of cheffy tricks to get great results.

0:43:120:43:16

All you do need is a little time.

0:43:160:43:19

You can find all the recipes from the series on:

0:43:190:43:22

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