Speedy Suppers James Martin: Home Comforts


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The heart of my home is the kitchen.

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And it's here that I love to cook delicious meals

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for my nearest and dearest.

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ALL: Cheers!

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There is no better way to celebrate everything good in life...

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than sharing some great food...

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with the people you love.

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These are the dishes that I cook when I want to bring people together.

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These are my Home Comforts.

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Like most people, my greatest battle in the working week is with time.

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There just never seems to be enough of it.

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But over the years, I have learnt the secrets of

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getting great-tasting food on the table quickly.

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I'm going to show you some recipes that are guaranteed to

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make your midweek suppers a breeze.

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So, today, I'm turning up the heat on a fast tomato salad.

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People often look at me as if I'm a bit mad when I do this,

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but trust me, it works.

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And old classic gets a turbo-charged makeover.

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Now, I know what people are thinking.

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This is just cauliflower cheese. It's not finished, by a long way.

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And who says that speedy suppers can't be romantic?

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Gennaro!

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They certainly get Gennaro Contaldo in the mood.

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If you were a woman, I would marry you. Lucky me.

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But for my first dish, a much maligned vegetable

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is taking centre stage.

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So many people look at this fella - the humble cauliflower -

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and just use it as a side order.

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But, in actual fact, it's great as a main meal,

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and I'm going to show you cauliflower cheese with a difference.

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Forget overcooked, stodgy school dinner cauli-cheese -

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this is my ultra-quick crispy-crumb twist on a classic,

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topped with syrupy, sweet pancetta.

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It takes longer to say it than it does to make.

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I think the key to this is the cooking of the cauliflower.

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Straight on the stove first of all. And get this water boiling.

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The key to this also is, people cut the cauliflower too small, so if you

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keep the florets quite large, they actually cook nice

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and sort of firm, as well. They don't break up,

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and you end up with this horrible mess in the bottom of your dish.

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Pop the florets into boiling water for roughly five minutes.

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While they cook, you can start your sauce.

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And for the basic sauce, we just use some butter,

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we use plain flour and milk.

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And the best way to do this, the speedy way,

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is to add the butter straight into the pan.

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45, 50g of butter maybe,

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and we are just warming this up first of all.

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One thing you do not want to be doing is boiling this.

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Because this is where people always go wrong

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when they are making a white sauce. It always goes lumpy.

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It should be nice and light. The best way to do that...

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is to use this. And these two.

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Because you will know straightaway if you add too much flour.

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It's going to go thick and really heavy.

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'Add the flour just as the butter is melted. Whisk in as you go.'

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You see, there is no lumps at this stage.

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And then, gradually, we add our milk.

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Some people will tell you to add warm milk, some people cold milk.

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For me, I like to add it cold. You can keep a much better eye on it.

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See, the minute I add this milk, watch what happens.

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It starts to thicken.

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Gradually add the milk, little by little.

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All the time keeping your eye on that cauliflower.

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'Once you have added the last of the milk, bring it gently to the boil.

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'Now for the topping.'

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The cheese I like to use is a Cheddar cheese.

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It is entirely up to you what cheese you want to put on for the top.

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If you grate it like that,

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it actually melts into the sauce much easier.

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Add it to the pan along with a spoon of Dijon mustard

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and a pinch of salt and pepper.

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You see how quick this is.

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Cauliflower cheese is one of

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the ultimate speedy suppers in my mind, really,

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but it's made in the same time as that cauliflower takes to cook...

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you've got the sauce done.

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This is now cooked nicely. It's not dropping to bits.

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It's certainly not how my poor nana used to do cauliflower.

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It used to take about two-and-a-half hours

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to get to Sheffield from my mum's house.

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And I reckon the cauliflower went on as we left the house.

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I don't think my nana ever plunged her cauliflower

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into a bowl of ice-cold water afterwards either,

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but I do, because it stops it cooking any further.

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Now, lay the florets into a baking dish,

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pour over the sauce and top with the remaining cheese.

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I know what people are thinking.

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They are thinking, "This is just cauliflower cheese.

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"I'm stood here watching this on TV - what is he doing?"

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It's not finished by a long way - watch.

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This is going to go under the grill, underneath there,

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for about two or three minutes.

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The same time now, we are then going to make this

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on a different level, on a different planet, this will be.

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So we get this nice and hot.

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What we are going to do is grab some brioche.

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This is a bread loaf made with butter really.

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It's just the best.

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MUFFLED: And you take this and you put it in the blender.

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'Once you have blended what is left of the brioche into breadcrumbs,

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'melt some butter into a frying pan and began to toast them.'

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If you're doing anything with veg

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and you want to really bulk something out,

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make it taste on a different level, little bit of brioche

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toasted off with some butter... makes things taste fabulous.

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And now...

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comes the best bit. Cos we're not finished yet.

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That's the crumb bit, the best bit is pancetta, which is

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like a cured Italian belly pork.

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It tastes amazing, we are producing it in the UK now, it is delicious.

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If you just pan-fry this in a nonstick pan,

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and pile it up in the pan as well.

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When the pancetta is golden and crispy,

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pour some maple syrup into the saucepan.

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Soak up all that lovely flavour in there.

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And then what we are going to do it just finish off and top

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our lovely cauliflower cheese.

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Ho-ho-ho!

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You have got these wonderful breadcrumbs,

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which you can put over the top.

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Which is made out of that delicious brioche, full of flavour.

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Take the bacon with that maple syrup and just drizzle it over the top.

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And of course, the best bit...

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I love cauliflower cheese, but this just takes it to another level.

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It's so quick, so speedy, the entire lot is done in about 15 minutes.

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The maple syrup, the crumbs, you just get different layers

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and textures in there. That is a proper dish.

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'I said this is definitely nothing like the old-school version,

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'so you can believe me when I tell you this, as well -

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'this is the tastiest and fastest

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'cauliflower cheese you'll ever eat.'

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Picking veg straight from my garden means I always have

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a quick supper to hand.

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And these freshly gathered flavours are unbeatable in any recipe.

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But you don't need a garden to get your hands on

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the freshest ingredients.

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Because there are a host of British food producers growing them for you.

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Gary Griffiths is more specialised than your average fruit grower.

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He and his family dedicate themselves entirely to producing

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just one thing.

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Tomatoes.

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Just name a variety

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and they are probably growing it in their market garden.

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The traditional San Marzano. It's good for cooking.

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Lemon Boys, that's a new introduction.

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This tomato is known as a Pineapple.

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Pineapple tomatoes are very exotic compared to the fruit and veg

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that Gary's dad sold years ago in his shop.

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But as a boy, Gary was inspired by seeing

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that simple produce being grown.

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When I was about 15 years old,

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I was invited down to the nursery for a day,

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and it was a fascinating experience.

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Just one year later, an opportunity came along to buy that very nursery.

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Gary jumped at the chance, despite his tender age.

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When I first started growing here, I was 16,

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and I grew a lot of different crops.

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I have grown runner beans outside, I have grown leeks in the winter,

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and then, many years later, we specialised in just tomatoes.

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We are growing 30 different varieties of tomatoes

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here on this site.

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There are hundreds of other varieties,

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and Gary travels the world in his quest to find them.

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This is one new variety that we have brought in this year,

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which is called Lemon Tiger.

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It is acidic to start with,

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with a strong tomato flavour coming through afterwards.

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It's almost two flavours in one.

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Gary grows his well-travelled tomatoes hydroponically -

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without any soil.

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The plants are grown in rock wool,

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spun out of molten basalt and chalk.

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A bit like candyfloss.

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All the water and nutrients the plants need are piped through it.

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That is a good root system. Lots of young roots.

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Holds the nutrients and water perfectly,

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and the plant is very, very healthy growing in this system.

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The plants might be getting 21st-century help at the roots,

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but up top, all the care is painstakingly done by hand.

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We have to do training of the plants every week,

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on approximately 16,000 plants. Regardless of weather conditions.

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And when it's extremely hot, it is hard work.

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Twist in the head...and remove the sideshoot growth.

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All of that energy will then be focused purely on one single stem.

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Well, that's one done, only 15,999 to go.

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I do enjoy the challenge of the job really.

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I think if I didn't enjoy it, I probably wouldn't be doing it still.

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In the 35 years Gary has been here,

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the tomato plants are not the only things that have grown.

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So has Gary's family.

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This business has my wife, my son, and at the moment,

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my daughter, working within the business, as well.

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So, each stage of the production, the packing

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and the distribution is overseen by a family member.

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Gary even delivers the tomatoes to the customers himself,

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to make sure they arrive in tiptop condition.

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And today, he's heading to

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the exclusive Goodwood Private Members' Club,

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where head chef Adie Howes loves to feature Gary's tomatoes on his menu.

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It is a pleasure to work with such fantastic produce

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such as the tomatoes that Gary supplies us with.

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We pride ourselves on using local ingredients

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with great provenance, and these completely fit the bill.

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We just keep them nice and simple and let them

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speak for themselves.

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It seems as though Gary's quest for the perfect tomato

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has definitely borne fruit.

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OK, I might not be quite as dedicated to tomatoes,

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but I do love growing and eating them.

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They are perfect ingredients when you want to rustle up something

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quickly, and this next dish is absolutely packed with them.

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# Ain't nothing like the real thing, baby. #

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The great thing about using fresh tomatoes,

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when they are bang in season,

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for speedy suppers - they're full of flavour -

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and because of that, you have to do so little to it.

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I'm going to do a simple little tomato tart with

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a burnt tomato salad. Sounds complicated, but it is so, so easy.

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The first thing we are going to use is some puff pastry.

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This is all-butter puff pastry.

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The reason for that is, it is full of flavour, again.

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What you mustn't use is the one that is made out of margarine.

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So roll this out.

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The thing about this tart is, you can actually freeze it.

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So once you have made the base -

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and you can make a few of these - you can pop them in the freezer

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and they freeze and cook from frozen really, really well.

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You can actually freeze them with the tomatoes on it.

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And then, just using a bowl, you can use a plate,

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we're going to cut out some discs.

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To create our little tartlets, it's really simple, this.

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I like to cut a little frame around the edge. To do that,

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put your finger against a table knife.

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You don't really want a chef's knife.

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otherwise it cuts all the way through the pastry.

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But you cut about halfway through the pastry,

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using your finger as a little thickness gauge of the frame.

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What this is going to do, it's going to rise separately to the inside.

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It's going to keep all the flavour of the tomatoes inside

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and allow none of the liquid to leak around the edge.

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Once you have made the pastry border,

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prick some holes in the base and brush with beaten egg.

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And now, for our tomatoes...

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I'm going to use two different types of tomatoes for this.

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Just your standard tomatoes, these are wonderful,

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that you get from the supermarket.

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But I am also going to use these, these are San Marzano tomatoes,

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these wonderful Italian-style tomatoes which just taste delicious.

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They are amazing for sauces,

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beautiful and sweet, they contain less seeds.

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These are the ones that I really like to grow at home in the garden.

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These are fantastic. But they also come in tins, they taste delicious.

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Slice the tomatoes thinly and grate some Gruyere cheese

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and lay over the pastry bases.

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The key to this is to keep all the cheese inside that framework.

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Because what will happen is, as that pastry cooks,

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the weight of the filling in the middle will stop it

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from rising, but the outside that you cut will release

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and hopefully trap in all that nice flavour of the fresh tomatoes.

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When you have covered both pastry cases, season with salt and pepper.

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You can also add some herbs.

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What I like is a lovely bit of fresh thyme.

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Because I grow this stuff in the garden,

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often in the summer you can chop the stalks all the way through.

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In the winter, you need to pull them off the stalks,

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because the stalks become a little bit woody.

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A little bit of oil on top.

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Keep it inside the framework again,

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and I have set the oven at about 210 degrees centigrade.

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That is about 420 Fahrenheit.

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And this is going to cook for about 12 to 15 minutes.

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If you're cooking these from frozen,

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they will every take about 15 minutes.

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While the tarts cook, I can get on with the side salad.

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Lay more tomatoes on a baking tray, along with thickly sliced

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red onion, and some would say controversially, a lettuce.

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I'm going to serve this tomato tart with a burnt salad.

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This really can taste fantastic.

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It's not just go and stuff an iceberg lettuce on a barbecue,

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it is basically just take your lettuce like this...

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Now, people often look at me as if I am a bit mad when I do this,

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but trust me, it works.

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Touch of veg oil over the top, and then a blowtorch.

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This is where you have got to go to a hardware store

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and get a proper blowtorch.

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No good with these fancy little cigarette lighter things -

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proper blowtorch. This comes free with a mask.

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And then we, basically, blowtorch the entire lot.

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What this does, it puts a lovely charred flavour,

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almost barbecued flavour, to these tomatoes.

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It is very, very different in a salad,

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but one that tastes really, really nice.

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We are not burning it, we are caramelising it,

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that is all we are doing.

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'If you don't have a blowtorch at home,

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'you can do this very carefully under a preheated grill.

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'Once the salad has been charred,

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'simply dress with a classic French vinaigrette.'

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So, white wine vinegar.

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And then you use some plain veg oil.

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Three to one. It's much easier when you do it in a glass jar,

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like that, because you can see it separate.

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So you've got the oil there.

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And you've got the vinegar at the bottom.

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Then what I do is just add some mustard.

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Then I'm going to add an egg yolk.

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Now, the egg yolk is purely optional. You don't have to add it.

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Salt and pepper.

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Good amount of black pepper as well.

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I often find it's good in a jar like this

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because when you put the lid on,

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you can quickly shake it up.

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But there you've got a classic, simple, French-style dressing

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that's brilliant for this tomato dish.

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This is great just on its own,

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you could put a little bit of feta cheese crumbled over the top,

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little bit of halloumi, something like that, you've got

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a wonderful little salad. However, don't forget...

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we have got these amazing tomato tarts in the oven.

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HE CHUCKLES GLEEFULLY

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Look at these! You see, the puff pastry has risen.

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None of the liquid from the tomatoes has seeped out.

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You can see all of that liquid has stayed in the tart itself.

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The pastry is cooked underneath, so it is exactly what we want.

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What I love about dishes like this is its simplicity.

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You've got all-butter puff pastry, little bit of cheese,

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fresh tomatoes out the garden.

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It is just full of flavour. It's like a cheese and tomato sandwich.

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Just a little bit better.

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These crisp and delicious tarts will definitely be

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the talk of the supper table.

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And you don't need to tell your guests

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how quick and easy they were to make.

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When it comes to speedy cooking at home, I like to rustle up

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rapido Italian suppers. And I love anything that involves pasta.

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Today, I'm getting some help from a legendary chef

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and world-record-holding ravioli maker.

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LILTING: Gennaro!

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Hello, big boy.

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'Gennaro Contaldo has agreed to share some of his pasta tips.'

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Nice to see you. But you live ever so far,

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if I tell you I have been walking all the way from London,

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you believe me. You've walked all the way?

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Yeah. Do you know what? I am starving.

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'But first, he wants a few ingredients from my garden.'

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We've got some herbs, some beans, all these are mulberry trees.

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Can I just taste some? Look, I can't resist. Yes, they're nice.

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Look at this one. Ah! A wasp!

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JAMES GIGGLES

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What are you after? Some marjoram. Marjoram we've got here.

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Let me just get this tender one.

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OK. Basil, shall we get some basil? Yeah, basil.

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You've got it in pesto, yeah.

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I need mint, mint, mint. Mint is over there.

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We are turning these gardens spoils into a very special type of ravioli.

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It's our ricotta and chive stuffed cappellacci

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with pea, bean and wild herb pesto.

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Right, so what we are going to do

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as I make this pasta, always 00 flour.

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Always 00 flour. Double zero, double fun.

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And so simple, because to make pasta you need about

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100g of 00 flour.

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I'll guess this is 100 here. Guess 100. Yeah. You need one egg.

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My village, in my hometown Minori. You've been in Minori.

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I have been in Minori.

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It's like Whitby. Have you ever been to Whitby?

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Of course I've been in Whitby.

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It's part of your world. It's like Whitby, you've got that coastline.

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It is, indeed. It's just like Whitby, without the weather.

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HE LAUGHS

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Minori is beautiful, I cooked for your family when I was out there.

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Yes, you did, so good. Look at that, once it is done, that is fantastic.

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You grab it... Look, test it, have a look.

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Now you need to knead.

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Isn't it supposed to feel like your cheek, I got told?

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So, like that...

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You're supposed to pull it, aren't you?

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Was that something that I was...? No, I wasn't told that.

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Anyway. HE LAUGHS

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I just thought you had. So... Yeah.

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You knead it.

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So you must remember your, your family making it like this,

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exactly the same. My father and my mother, as well.

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My father was...a master chef. He was not a chef.

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But making pasta, he loved to make pasta.

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But there was one trouble and my mother had to finish it off.

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Right, OK.

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Because he always insisted that you have to buy the grain itself

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and they have to mill itself. Oh, really?

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Yeah. But actually it was not very good.

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He made it. Because it was not super fine.

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Yeah. It was super thick.

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My father, he couldn't really make pasta. My mum used to make it.

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When you've kneaded the pasta, wrap it in clingfilm

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and pop it in the fridge for half an hour,

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giving you enough time to pod your peas and wash up.

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Aargh! This water is hot. Aargh!

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What, do you make the tea out of that? Eh?

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HE LAUGHS

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After 30 minutes, take the pasta dough out of the fridge,

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and then we need to make the filling for the ravioli.

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So, we've got buffalo ricotta here.

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Buffalo ricotta. Oh, look at that.

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Now, tell us about this, then. What is this?

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Well, this one is...come from Campagna,

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it come near where I come from in Minori and it's pure, pure buffalo.

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So, you mash this one all up. So, so easy.

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What I want you to do now, I want you to chop some chives.

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You're in the record books - The Guinness Book Of Records -

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aren't you, for the world's fastest ravioli maker, is that right?

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Ravioli. Yeah. You know I'm in the record books, as well?

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For what? The world's fastest carrot peeler and chopper.

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This is how fast you can cut it? Yeah. I've got older since then.

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We put about three, four spoons of chives inside, which is so good.

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You've got some different herbs here.

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Yeah, of course. You've raided my garden.

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What are you going to use, a bit of mint? A bit of mint.

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Not too much mint because it's quite strong.

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A bit of marjoram? And oregano.

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It combines so well with chives, the ricotta and Parmesan,

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so cut up very fine. You're good.

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Now you've become the fastest mint and marjoram and oregano cutter.

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You do well.

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Mix the herbs into the ricotta,

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along with a good grating of Parmesan and a pinch of salt.

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For the pesto, tear up some basil, marjoram and mint.

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Add some chopped garlic and then mash everything together in a pestle

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and mortar with some salt, grated Parmesan and a glug of olive oil.

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I've got the pasta here.

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Look, you can see it's relaxed a little bit,

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and without the flour I start to roll it.

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So the key to this is not to have too much flour.

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No. Because if you put too much flour you dry it up a little bit.

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This is also bring memory back because my poor mother,

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once a week she used to make fresh pasta. OK.

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She didn't need to because actually pasta was not expensive

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and there was very good pasta there.

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Why she was making it? Because she was so used to it.

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Her mother, her grandma used to make pasta.

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Do you now what it...? Do you know what it is? Love.

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This is supposed to be a speedy supper, so...

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Oh, it is a speedy supper. Look, let's roll the pasta out.

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Let's roll out the pasta, it's so good. Here it goes.

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There it goes again.

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And now, at this stage, you need a little touch of flour,

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just dry underneath.

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Roll it out one way or the other just a little bit. Start to roll it.

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Look at that.

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You need to keep rolling it until your pasta is thin enough.

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To test it, blow it from the side and it should lift off the surface.

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Right, look what I've got inside here.

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# Ta-ta-tan-ta! # It's to make everything for pasta.

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Oh, it's like an Italian toolkit for a car.

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This is the way they make a Ferrari.

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Look all these gadgets.

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So what is this, all your old school...?

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Well, I could...yeah. This is...look at that.

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OK. This make all different shape.

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With this one, you make perfect pasta. Look.

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Oh, my goodness me. Why I'm so good.

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OK, you've got it? Yeah.

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Again. Come on!

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I can't believe I make this pasta, it's so good.

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Now pop your peas and beans on to simmer, brush your ravioli

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with water and place a small bowl of ricotta into the middle.

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Then fold it into a traditional cappellacci.

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Just a little ball.

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You put them on the middle and you roll it.

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OK? You've got it? Yeah.

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Then you press here on the middle, you roll it. OK?

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You pull in one side, pull in the other side, and look at this.

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Hey! Can you do that? No, you can't.

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OK, go on.

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No! What? No! No! What? No. Look...

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This way? No. OK. This way.

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OK, you've done... No, you've done it. OK. Press it.

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Close on top, roll this one. It's like ironing a shirt.

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If you do it really badly, then... OK. Press it...

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..you never have to do it again. Don't worry if a little bit...

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I'm pressing there. No, here. Let's see?

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Roll it. Turn it. Pull it.

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Close it. There it goes.

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Hallelujah, you've done it. Right. We're there.

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Do you want me to put this in the pan? Yeah, yes.

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So how long do you cook these for? No, not very long.

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Around three minutes should do it.

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While you're waiting, mix together the herbs, the hot peas

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and a good glug of olive oil.

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Before adding your perfectly cooked pasta,

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with a little of the water from the pan.

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James, if you was a woman of the age of 55, 60, I would marry you.

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Unfortunately, you're not a woman, you're not 55, so I can't marry you.

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Lucky me(!) Yeah. Add more Parmesan.

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Come on, let's do it. Go on, then, dive in.

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Mmm! Mmm-mmm-mmm!

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That ricotta is delicious.

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The combination of the paste, the beans

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and the broad beans with the mint is incredible.

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What I love about Italian food, it is simple. Great flavours.

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I mean, it is quick, even if you decide to make your own pasta,

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it is quick. Hallelujah.

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Now, all the time you've been here... Tell me.

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How many times you've been to this place,

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you've always wanted to drive a car. Do you know what...?

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So, I'm going to let you drive one of my cars. Can you?

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Do you know what? You always wanted this one.

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I'll do you a swap. I'll do you a swap. You do...

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I'll take this and I'll let you borrow...let you drive one of my cars. That's good.

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I want a car, drive a car. I want the big one.

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The big one, not the small one.

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And there you have it, a super-speedy Italian supper,

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and super cheap, too.

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As long as Gennaro doesn't lose his no-claims bonus.

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You wanted to drive one of my cars?

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Off you go. I want to drive the Ferrari.

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Come here. Look, you'll look good on it. Here. Sit on it.

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But I want to drive a sports car. Get on it.

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Listen, it goes about as quick as you need it to go. All right?

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Come on, gadget!

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Move away!

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Precisely the reason why he doesn't drive my cars.

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These speedy suppers prove that fast food can be great food.

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Now, if only I could teach Gennaro how to cut a corner.

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Move away! Out the way!

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You can find all the recipes for the series at bbc.co.uk/food.

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Get away! Move away! I'm here!

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Hit it! Over on CBeebies,

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our mission is discovering more about the world.

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ALL: Wow!

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We've got a rocket ship, we've got a unicorn,

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and we're off on a global adventure.

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Geographic! Go wild for Niagara Falls.

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