A Taste of my Travels James Martin: Home Comforts


A Taste of my Travels

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The heart of my home is the kitchen.

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And it's here that I love to cook delicious meals

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for my nearest and dearest.

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SHE LAUGHS Cheers, everybody.

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There's no better way to celebrate everything good in life

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than sharing some great food with the people you love.

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These are the dishes that I cook when I want to bring people together.

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These are MY home comforts.

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For me, travelling is one of the joys of modern life.

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I love experiencing different cultures,

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meeting amazing people and eating incredible food.

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Over the years, it's given me so much inspiration in the kitchen.

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I'm going to take you on a culinary road trip

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making pit stops all over the world

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to pick up ideas that can easily be transported into your home.

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Like this one, a boozy pudding that brings back

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memories of my holidays in France.

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It really is a grown-up dessert, this. It tastes amazing.

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I'm also taking a gourmet gamble on a fiery dish I picked up in Spain.

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One in every ten are hot and spicy.

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And sharing food ideas with my friend

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and fellow globetrotter Antonio Carluccio.

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So, what got you into food in the first place, then?

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-Greed.

-Greed! THEY LAUGH

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I'm starting off with a dish I discovered on a recent fishing break.

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For me, nothing beats bringing home a good catch

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and netting a fantastic recipe too.

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This one is aubergine with halibut and miso.

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Now, this is only about five or six months ago that I spotted this dish.

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It was when I went fishing for this amazing seafood

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and serious fishing as well,

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where they strap you into a seat.

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And I remember catching this tuna, it was about... A bonito tuna.

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About that sort of big. I was chuffed to bits with it.

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But you could tell the fisherman wasn't too impressed, really,

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at the size of my catch.

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So he decided to use this fish, that big, as live bait.

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We caught some amazing fish and then brought it back.

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And on the island, this chef created this amazing dish

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using this miso paste.

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There's so many different types of miso paste out there,

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but particularly the white one you want for this.

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Start off by putting a whole packet of the paste,

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which is made from fermented soybeans, into a pan.

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And then to turn this into the sauce...

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I just use caster sugar.

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Equal quantities of sugar and white miso.

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So, there's quite a bit of sugar in here

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and this is where this dish is kind of unique,

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I think, in terms of the sweetness with fish.

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It's very unusual to put this amount of sugar with halibut,

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but one that works really well together.

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Next, add a splash of water and put it on the stove.

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Now, what happens to the mixture as it cooks,

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the sugar caramelises and mixed together with that miso paste

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creates this amazing sauce.

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Be quite careful with this as well

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because you've got that amount of sugar in,

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it can burn quite quickly.

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So once you come to the boil like this,

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just turn it down slightly and that just wants to gently cook now.

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For about ten minutes.

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Now you can tell when the mixture is ready,

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the colour changes and also the texture changes.

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You get this nice, light caramel,

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almost like banoffee-style sauce, really.

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Now, I like to pop it in these little squeezy bottles.

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It's much easier to keep.

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The great thing about this is you can keep it in the fridge.

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And then when you want it, just heat this up in a hot pan.

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Try to get most of it INTO the bottle, though.

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It's so fantastic, the sauce.

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It's lovely and sweet.

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It's very unusual to go with fish, but...

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..with this dish, it just tastes superb.

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Take some aubergine and cut into decent size chunks.

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Now, it's time to bring out the star of the meal.

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Halibut grows to be huge. It's a massive flatfish.

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It can be sort of about half the size of this stove.

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Huge, massive fish where you take big chunks off.

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But I've got a diddly one.

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This nice little halibut.

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You can buy this from the supermarket as well now.

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It's a wonderful flatfish.

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A lot of the time, this is actually farmed as well.

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It really does taste delicious.

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And one that is highly prized.

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Once you've cut your fish into decent size chunks,

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start shallow-frying them in butter.

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At the same time, you need to deep-fry the aubergine in oil.

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Now, what you'll find if the oil is not hot enough,

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that aubergines are like a sponge, they soak in all the oil

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and then just dump it out on the plate.

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So you've got to make sure the oil is really, really hot.

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If you're doing it on a pan like this, just be really careful.

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Use the thermometer. This one is to be about 180 degrees.

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Just fry them very, very quickly.

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Just before the halibut is cooked, add some shelled edamame beans

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and heat them through.

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It's a very quick and simple dish, this,

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but one that tastes amazing.

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The aubergine chunks just take a couple of minutes to cook.

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After that, scoop them out and place onto kitchen paper

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to soak up any excess oil.

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Add a pinch of salt and then some chopped coriander.

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Now, you are ready to plate up.

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Couldn't be easier.

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I cook this dish so much here at home.

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I love it for dinner parties.

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It's one of my favourite, favourite dishes

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cos it's just so simple and yet so effective.

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I mean, already this dish looks really nice as it is.

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To make it look even better, sprinkle both black

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and white sesame seeds over the top.

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And, of course, you've got your fish simply cooked.

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And then just a drizzle...

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..of this hot sauce over the top.

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Finally, I like to add a couple of exciting garnishes -

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some fennel fronds and red amaranth, which has a beet flavour.

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I love this stuff.

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It sounds a little bit fancy, but you can grow this at home.

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These seeds just come from a local garden centre.

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How good does that look?

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It's one of my favourites.

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This is a real taste of my travels, to be honest.

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Mm.

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And all these ingredients can be found in the supermarket.

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That's the great thing about it.

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It tastes so fantastic.

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I've travelled thousands of miles to discover this dish,

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but increasingly, I'm finding exotic inspiration right here at home.

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That's because of the people who've come from all corners of the world

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to live in Britain, bringing the fantastic flavours

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of their homelands with them.

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People like Tina Stone,

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who is from Indonesia.

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12 years ago, she met her husband, Jeremy, in Jakarta

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where he was teaching.

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After getting married,

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the couple decided to settle their young family in Birmingham.

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For the first two years when we moved here to the UK,

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I was really missing my family as well as my mum's cooking.

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Anyone who lives on the other side of the world from your relatives,

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you miss your family, so by sustaining the cooking,

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the memory of her mum's recipes,

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it's almost like a way of curing her homesickness.

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And what started off in Tina's kitchen as a way of capturing

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the smells and tastes of home soon developed into a business.

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The idea of having my own brand of Indonesian cooking paste,

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it started last year, actually.

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My husband loves Indonesian cooking and I love cooking,

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so why don't we turn a hobby into being a business?

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Tina uses authentic recipes that have been handed down from her mum

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and can be used to create a real taste of Indonesia.

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They are packed with the finest ingredients,

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but many of these can be hard to find.

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I come here because there's so many different spices

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and ingredients, which is very specific.

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Turmeric, lemon grass, galangal,

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which is quite difficult to find from the supermarket.

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Like, for example, turmeric, I can get it from the shop,

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but it's usually a powder or dry.

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So, that's very important for me, fresh ingredients taste better.

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And Tina's trips to the food market can take her

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even further down memory lane.

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When I was small, my grandad had a sugar cane farm

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and I remember my grandma used to cut like a quarter

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and then I sucked it. When I was small, I used to suck it.

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It was so sweet. And it's nice.

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So, I'm amazed just to find sugar cane here

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in Birmingham Wholesale Market, so...

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Tina's is going to use the spices she's bought to cook up

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an Indonesian curry called beef rendang.

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She'll serve this with a range of other dishes

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to a group of friends who are due to visit.

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The curry I'm going to make tonight is kind of a secret recipe.

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Well, OK, without revealing absolutely everything,

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her rendang paste is a blend of herbs and spices

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mixed with other ingredients including candlenut.

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Candlenut is very important. We use a lot to make a paste thicken.

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These flavours and the way in which they are used can differ

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greatly depending on which part of Indonesia you visit.

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We are the country with lots and lots of islands.

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Every region has different, unique recipes and they all influence.

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Tina's drive to share the flavours from her corner of Indonesia

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began under tragic circumstances.

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Sadly, my dad passed away when I was only 16

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and my mum had to look after four of us on her own.

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She started to have a small business, which was selling food.

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My sisters and I prepared, four o'clock in the morning every day

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before we went to school.

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Just to, you know, keep us alive.

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To show my respect to my mum being so strong

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and hard-working for us, I named my brand after my mum.

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The other day, she mentioned to her mum about what we're doing

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and her mum was in tears with pride at the fact that, you know,

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we are introducing Indonesian flavours to people in this country.

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And while Tina is working hard to raise the profile of Indonesian food

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in the UK, tonight is all about sharing the taste

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and memories of home with family and friends.

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I'm always grateful to be able to cook my mum's recipes

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and share it with my friends.

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It reminds me of my mum's cooking.

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I was brought up on spicy food, always full of flavour.

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I love it.

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I think every time, especially when we have get-togethers

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with Indonesian people,

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the smells of the food, the sounds of the language,

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it always takes you back to, you know,

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the time when we lived in Indonesia.

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Today has been a really good day and everybody is happy.

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I think Mama Eti would be so proud of me.

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I love travelling to countries with a vibrant food culture

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and one such place is Spain.

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And it's where I got the inspiration for my next dish.

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Chicken and Serrano croquetas with a side of padron peppers.

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They have an amazing market in Barcelona called La Boqueria Market.

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It's right on the Les Rambles, right in the centre of Barcelona.

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And inside that market,

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you have some of the greatest food I've ever seen in my life.

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And there's loads of different tapas bars all dotted around the market

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and this dish comes from one of those places.

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I go to the same place all the time and have this - little croquetas.

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Now the basis of croquetas is a simple white sauce.

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But it's a thickened white sauce.

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It's a different texture to a normal sort of cheese sauce

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that we have over here, but it all starts with a touch of butter

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and a little bit of flour.

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Mix this together.

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So at this stage, it will be slightly thick,

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almost like choux pastry in the pot here.

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Keep the pan on the heat.

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You just need to cook this for about 30 seconds.

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And then slowly add the milk.

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Just a little at a time. Too much to start off with

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and you get lumps in the sauce.

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Keep on mixing until it's got the texture of mashed potato.

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I suppose it's kind of like that, really.

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That's the ideal texture for this.

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So, if it is too liquid at this stage,

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it's just going to be a big mess in your fryer

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and if it's too solid, they will become a little bit chewy to eat.

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The mixture is a blank canvas. You can add to it whatever you want.

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But I'm going to use the ingredients that remind me

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of that market in Barcelona - Serrano ham, chicken and chopped parsley.

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Have a quick taste.

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Needs a bit more salt.

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Then one other thing that Spain is famous for,

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I'm going to add to this as well,

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is almonds.

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Flaked almonds.

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So, you've got this delicious mixture.

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You take the entire lot and pop it in the fridge just to cool slightly.

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While it's doing that, I'm preparing three plates -

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one containing soft breadcrumbs, another with seasoned flour

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and the third was a couple of beaten eggs.

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These will act as a coating for the croquetas once the mixture

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is finished cooling in the fridge.

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It's a good idea, really, to wet your hands at this point

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to stop the mixture from sticking to your fingers.

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What you are looking for is just...

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I suppose, like a golf ball sort of size, really.

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Into the flour.

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Roll them around until they are completely covered.

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Then into the eggs and finish off with the breadcrumbs.

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After that, you can start to shape the croquetas ready for cooking.

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Now, before we cook these, we are going to cook our padron peppers,

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so everything comes together.

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Some really good quality Spanish olive oil.

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Spain produces so many great ingredients

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and olives and olive oil are one of them.

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Get the pan nice and hot. The padron peppers, throw them in.

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You want to fry them for no more than about a minute.

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Now, these are amazing peppers,

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but it's bit like Russian roulette when you're eating them.

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One in every ten are hot and spicy.

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So, as they cook, they start to puff up a little bit

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as the skin colours and discolours a little bit.

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Keep them on the heat.

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At that point, a nice pinch of salt.

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And a decent-sized pinch as well.

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That's why it's a good idea to use sea salt for this, not table salt.

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They're ready. Take them off.

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Just pop them into your bowl.

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The last thing to do is deep-fry the croquetas for a couple of minutes.

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When they've turned a lovely golden colour,

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take them out of the oil, a little pinch of salt over the top

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and pile them on the plate and eat them while they are still hot.

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And the key to this, when you grab one of your croquetas

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and just open it up

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and you end up with this texture inside.

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That's exactly you're looking for, that runny sort of texture.

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Chunks of meat in there as well.

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Such a simple dish to recreate.

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The flavour is fantastic.

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For me, this sums up Spain in my opinion - croquetas

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and padron peppers.

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One in every ten, remember.

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It's not that one.

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Cooking this dish transports me right back to Barcelona

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and reminds me of all those amazing food producers that Spain has.

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But we have them closer to home too

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and their ingredients are helping to make our own cuisine

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more and more adventurous.

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Cindy O'Brien farms an unusual sea creature called abalone

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off the west coast of Ireland.

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Her journey to the wild and spectacular shores of Galway

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has been a long one.

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I grew up in Southern California,

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which is completely different from here.

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Very little rain, lots of sun.

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We lived close by to sea.

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We would always go with my mum and dad and sisters

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and we would be looking for shells

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and that's where the interest started.

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Cindy trained as a marine biologist

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and met her Irish-born husband whilst working in Florida.

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But it was a dilemma about where to raise their future family

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that prompted their move to Ireland.

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I wanted to settle in California and my husband wanted

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to settle in Miami and so we decided to compromise and go to Ireland.

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Luckily, warm weather wasn't a must-have for the couple.

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It's changeable and you can have all four seasons in one day

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and that's the nice thing about it.

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You know, you can kind of get sick and tired of just sunshine.

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SHE LAUGHS I'm not sure about that,

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but Galway Bay did prove a great place to start the business

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that Cindy had long dreamed of.

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I had always wanted to run an aquaculture farm

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from the age of about 17, 18 years old.

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The interest for abalone came in when I was working in Miami.

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I was in a experimental fish hatchery there.

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And one of the professors there was talking about abalone

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and I did more research on it

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and that's where I decided that abalone was the one for me.

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An abalone is a type sea snail

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found mainly in cold waters around the world.

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It's considered a delicacy in many countries,

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particularly China and the Far East.

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The abalone raw will have a very subtle taste,

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more like a sea taste.

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Think of a mushroom, when it's raw, you have a certain taste

0:19:470:19:51

and when it's dried, it has a much stronger flavour

0:19:510:19:54

and it's the same with the abalone.

0:19:540:19:55

Aquafarms like Cindy's are springing up in places as diverse

0:19:570:20:00

as South Africa, Australia and Iceland.

0:20:000:20:04

Whilst the demand for abalone has rocketed,

0:20:040:20:07

stocks in the wild have depleted.

0:20:070:20:10

If you are actually sustainable,

0:20:100:20:13

then you are helping the wild population come back.

0:20:130:20:15

And that's part of what we hope to achieve.

0:20:150:20:20

Cindy farms the abalone in 20 on-shore tanks filled with

0:20:220:20:26

Galway Bay sea water.

0:20:260:20:28

This is constantly filtered and cleaned,

0:20:280:20:30

providing the perfect environment for the creatures to grow and breed.

0:20:300:20:34

This is our hatchery.

0:20:360:20:37

So, we will actually spawn the abalone in these buckets,

0:20:370:20:41

the abalone will release their eggs, we get them to fertilize

0:20:410:20:44

and we put them in egg trays.

0:20:440:20:47

That's a really good female.

0:20:470:20:48

Her eggs are dark. You can see them.

0:20:480:20:50

This is the part that everyone loves doing -

0:20:520:20:54

getting the abalones to spawn and producing more abalone.

0:20:540:20:57

I mean, it's like any farmer.

0:20:570:20:59

You want to see the new crop coming in.

0:20:590:21:02

They hatch from their eggs in under 24 hours

0:21:040:21:07

and live on a diet of microalgae, but as they grow their diet changes.

0:21:070:21:11

These are the weanings

0:21:130:21:14

and they've been weaned off the microalgae onto the kelp.

0:21:140:21:19

This is what they are eating now.

0:21:190:21:21

Luckily, Cindy has a free supply of kelp right on her doorstep.

0:21:220:21:27

We actually collect it locally.

0:21:270:21:29

It's good, clean seaweed that we get

0:21:290:21:32

and that is all that our abalones are fed.

0:21:320:21:35

We normally get the seaweed at low tide,

0:21:350:21:38

so you just kind of depends when low tide is

0:21:380:21:41

whether it's eight o'clock in the morning or,

0:21:410:21:43

you know, four o'clock in the afternoon.

0:21:430:21:46

Even with all this food, the creatures are slow-growing.

0:21:460:21:50

They won't reach market size for another three to four years.

0:21:500:21:54

But once they do, there's a world of ways to eat them.

0:21:540:21:58

The Japanese often consume them raw in sushi

0:21:580:22:00

and in California, you can even find them on pizza toppings.

0:22:000:22:04

But today, Cindy is the preparing a variety of abalone dishes

0:22:050:22:09

like pancakes.

0:22:090:22:10

It'll be an interesting way

0:22:110:22:13

to introduce this unusual ingredient to her daughter's friends.

0:22:130:22:17

The younger people are the ones who have a more adventurous palate.

0:22:170:22:21

It's amazing to see really young kids

0:22:210:22:24

who are willing to try anything.

0:22:240:22:27

Oh, that's really nice, yeah.

0:22:270:22:28

It's, like, nice and moist, so it's delicious.

0:22:280:22:31

It's very tasty. Absolutely. I hadn't tried it before,

0:22:310:22:33

so it was lovely.

0:22:330:22:35

Cindy hopes that the rest of us

0:22:350:22:37

will come round to the idea of abalone too.

0:22:370:22:39

Going abroad as a kid on family holidays really opens your mind

0:22:430:22:46

to new flavours.

0:22:460:22:47

My first foreign trip was to St Emilion in France.

0:22:500:22:53

Back then, it was all about macarons,

0:22:560:22:58

or if you are from Yorkshire, macaroons.

0:22:580:23:02

But as I grew up, it became more about their famous wine.

0:23:020:23:06

This is a homage to both of those ingredients -

0:23:060:23:09

my St Emilion macaroons.

0:23:090:23:11

So, I'm going to make my own macaroons

0:23:130:23:15

and serve that with a lovely red wine and chocolate mousse.

0:23:150:23:18

So, the first thing for our macaroons

0:23:180:23:20

is that you need to measure out everything.

0:23:200:23:22

Exact! Really, that's the key to this.

0:23:220:23:24

Really, with pastry, it's either right or wrong.

0:23:240:23:27

So, for this I want 100g of icing sugar.

0:23:270:23:31

To this, add 100g of ground almonds

0:23:330:23:36

and then blitz for a couple of minutes.

0:23:360:23:38

Not many people do this, but I think it benefits the macaroons.

0:23:420:23:46

You get it much finer

0:23:460:23:48

and in doing so, you get a really good quality end product.

0:23:480:23:51

That's probably enough.

0:23:530:23:54

Next, I'm going to make some Italian meringue.

0:23:560:24:01

And for that, I need 100g, again, of caster sugar.

0:24:010:24:04

Make sure it's exact.

0:24:040:24:07

Bang on.

0:24:070:24:08

Then pop it in the pan just with a little bit of water

0:24:080:24:12

to mix it to a paste.

0:24:120:24:13

Switch it on a high heat and then leave it.

0:24:140:24:17

While that's heating up, separate out two egg whites

0:24:190:24:22

and start whipping them...

0:24:220:24:23

..all the while keeping your eye on the temperature of that sugar.

0:24:240:24:28

When it hits 110 degrees centigrade, add it to the egg whites.

0:24:290:24:33

Now, you've got to pour this carefully, but quickly.

0:24:350:24:38

Too much in one go, it kind of cooks the egg whites,

0:24:400:24:43

so you've got to pour it...in a constant stream.

0:24:430:24:47

All the time, keep the machine going round and round

0:24:470:24:51

as high as possible. It's looking pretty good.

0:24:510:24:53

Add half the meringue to the blitzed almonds and sugar.

0:24:560:24:59

This will gradually turn into a paste.

0:24:590:25:01

Then gently fold in the rest.

0:25:030:25:04

Doing it this way will give the macaroons a lovely, light texture.

0:25:040:25:08

Once you've done this, it's almost time to pipe.

0:25:100:25:13

So let me show you a nifty little trick.

0:25:130:25:15

Get yourself a little cutter, like this.

0:25:160:25:19

Basically draw on your silicone paper.

0:25:190:25:22

Now, this is used as a template to pipe the macaroons.

0:25:220:25:28

To make sure they are all the same size.

0:25:300:25:32

And what you must do -

0:25:350:25:37

and you've got to remember this bit -

0:25:370:25:39

is take the paper and turn it over

0:25:390:25:41

because lead in your macaroons

0:25:410:25:44

doesn't taste very nice.

0:25:440:25:45

Fill up the piping bag then stick the paper to the baking tray

0:25:470:25:50

with a little bit of the mixture.

0:25:500:25:53

This stops the paper blowing around in the oven.

0:25:530:25:56

Now you can start piping.

0:25:560:25:59

Really, you pipe inside the little discs that you've created.

0:25:590:26:02

Now to do that, just hold the piping bag at the top,

0:26:020:26:06

press down and pipe.

0:26:060:26:08

When you get to the edge of your little template, stop.

0:26:080:26:11

It really is that simple.

0:26:120:26:14

So once you've got them full like that,

0:26:190:26:21

and they all look pretty the same to me,

0:26:210:26:24

just grab a touch of water in your fingers.

0:26:240:26:28

Just press the top of the macaroons.

0:26:280:26:31

And what you have to do now is leave them.

0:26:330:26:35

And leave them for at least half an hour before they go in the oven.

0:26:370:26:41

This is a vital part of it.

0:26:410:26:43

Cos this is where that lovely crust, that smooth crust,

0:26:430:26:47

will come over the top of the macaroons

0:26:470:26:49

and they'll souffle around the edge once you put them in the oven.

0:26:490:26:52

And you'll only get that by leaving it.

0:26:520:26:54

Which kind of gives you the time to wash up.

0:26:560:26:58

When those crusts have formed,

0:27:000:27:02

pop them in the oven for 20 to 25 minutes at 140 degrees centigrade.

0:27:020:27:06

Once you've taken them out, set them aside to cool

0:27:090:27:11

and you can get on with making the chocolate mousse.

0:27:110:27:14

We want good quality dark chocolate and butter.

0:27:160:27:19

You melt the butter and chocolate together.

0:27:210:27:24

While that is happening, separate out four eggs.

0:27:250:27:28

And whip up the egg yolks together with 50g of sugar

0:27:280:27:31

over another bain-marie.

0:27:310:27:33

Now, this reminds me of France so much.

0:27:350:27:38

You've got the macaroons, which came from underneath the flat

0:27:380:27:41

where we were sort of staying,

0:27:410:27:42

so you got that lovely smell when you woke up in the morning.

0:27:420:27:46

And this chocolate mousse comes from just over the courtyard.

0:27:460:27:49

St Emilion is based on a hill,

0:27:490:27:51

you've got this beautiful sort of town and on the courtyard,

0:27:510:27:54

you've got these lovely views over the top of all the vineyards

0:27:540:27:58

over in the valley.

0:27:580:27:59

There was a very famous hotel and restaurant that is still there -

0:27:590:28:03

Hotel de Plaisance.

0:28:030:28:05

And I remember as a young nipper wandering around the kitchen

0:28:050:28:08

just in awe, really, of all the chefs all in white with neckties

0:28:080:28:13

and tall chef's hats.

0:28:130:28:14

And I actually remembering eating this chocolate mousse way back then.

0:28:140:28:19

When the egg yolks are nicely whisked, add the melted chocolate

0:28:200:28:24

and keep it over a bain-marie,

0:28:240:28:26

otherwise it will start to set.

0:28:260:28:28

Then whisk up the four egg whites set aside from earlier,

0:28:280:28:31

fold them into the mixture.

0:28:310:28:33

What you get in the end is this lovely, light chocolate mousse.

0:28:360:28:41

You can now bring all the elements together.

0:28:410:28:43

You get some decent red wine glasses.

0:28:450:28:47

Now, what you do with the macaroons is you take these

0:28:470:28:50

and place them in the base.

0:28:500:28:52

And then a nice glug of this St Emilion wine.

0:28:540:28:59

But you've got this amazing red wine,

0:29:010:29:03

which sits almost like the jewel in the crown

0:29:030:29:06

at the bottom of the glass, really.

0:29:060:29:08

Next comes the chocolate mousse.

0:29:090:29:11

And then finally, not forgetting these wonderful macaroons

0:29:110:29:16

just put one in the centre.

0:29:160:29:18

You could pop these in the fridge to firm them up,

0:29:190:29:22

but I can't resist a moment longer.

0:29:220:29:24

What I love about this is underneath.

0:29:260:29:30

And it's the red wine...

0:29:300:29:31

Mm!

0:29:330:29:35

..mixed with the macaroons and chocolate.

0:29:370:29:40

It really is a grown-up dessert, this.

0:29:400:29:42

It tastes amazing.

0:29:430:29:46

It's pretty good, this.

0:29:460:29:47

I'm always inspired by trips to both France and Spain.

0:29:500:29:53

And that tradition of bringing home recipes from Europe has been

0:29:550:29:59

going on for hundreds of years.

0:29:590:30:02

Food historian Ivan Day is taking us on a Georgian gap year to find out

0:30:020:30:07

what foods those early tourists brought back to the UK.

0:30:070:30:11

The 18th century was the age of the Grand Tour,

0:30:130:30:17

when young aristocratic Englishman travelled down into Europe,

0:30:170:30:21

into the Italian peninsula,

0:30:210:30:23

and visited all the great sites of antiquity and the Renaissance.

0:30:230:30:28

Some of these guys get so interested in Italian culture

0:30:280:30:32

that they start coming back to London

0:30:320:30:34

wearing the latest Italian fashions and wigs and flamboyant clothes

0:30:340:30:40

and became known in London as the Macaroni Club.

0:30:400:30:44

But one fantastic thing which they acquired on their travels

0:30:460:30:50

was a real passion for Italian food.

0:30:500:30:53

So, using 18th-century methods, I'm going to make two wonderful dishes

0:30:530:30:59

typical of the sort of things that the Macaroni really enjoyed eating.

0:30:590:31:03

The first one, the main, is something called

0:31:050:31:08

a timbalo de maccaroni.

0:31:080:31:10

The second one is an absolutely wonderful pineapple ice.

0:31:100:31:16

Ivan's timbalo de maccaroni is actually filled with ravioli,

0:31:180:31:23

stuffed with a mixture of chard, ricotta, Parmesan and egg yolk,

0:31:230:31:29

a rich combination for those young men with very expensive tastes.

0:31:290:31:33

One of the most notorious London Macaroni was

0:31:350:31:38

the Whig politician Charles James Fox,

0:31:380:31:43

who went on the usual travel to Italy,

0:31:430:31:46

coming back with the most flamboyant waistcoats,

0:31:460:31:49

which were famous all over the city.

0:31:490:31:51

He was a womaniser, he was a gambler and he ran up enormous debts.

0:31:510:31:57

The Macaroni Club were happy to pay handsomely for a taste of Italy.

0:31:590:32:03

And London's restaurants were grafting to provide it.

0:32:030:32:07

They didn't have any pasta machines in the 18th century,

0:32:070:32:10

so it all had to be done with vim and vigour

0:32:100:32:13

and a bit of elbow grease.

0:32:130:32:14

When the pasta sheets were rolled,

0:32:150:32:17

chefs would tackle the tricky job of making the individual parcels.

0:32:170:32:21

So, I've made my ravioli

0:32:310:32:34

and I actually cooked it a little bit more in a simple sauce

0:32:340:32:38

made of cream, Parmesan cheese and a little bit of butter.

0:32:380:32:42

To make a case for the delicious ravioli filling,

0:32:440:32:47

Ivan lines a mould with pastry.

0:32:470:32:49

The trick is to get your timbalo mould

0:32:510:32:54

and to put it over...very gently, over your inverted pastry.

0:32:540:32:59

And then flick the whole thing over,

0:32:590:33:04

take that out.

0:33:040:33:06

And then if you can do it, get the mould that's inside

0:33:060:33:10

out as gently as you can.

0:33:100:33:12

After trimming the excess pastry, Ivan carefully adds the ravioli

0:33:140:33:17

and puts a lid on the pie.

0:33:170:33:19

Just a little hole to let the steam out.

0:33:210:33:24

And that is one timbalo de ravioli ready to go in the oven.

0:33:250:33:31

While my timbalo is baking in the oven,

0:33:360:33:40

I'm going to make another archetypal Italian dish -

0:33:400:33:44

a beautiful pineapple ice.

0:33:440:33:47

The Italians are really noted for their frozen desserts.

0:33:480:33:53

And they were masters at making ices in the form

0:33:530:33:57

of all sorts of things, particularly fruits.

0:33:570:34:00

And this one is probably the most luxurious of all

0:34:000:34:04

because it's made with a pineapple,

0:34:040:34:07

which was the most expensive fruit there was in the whole of Europe.

0:34:070:34:12

One posh ingredient and many hours of preparation

0:34:120:34:16

made this a very pricey dessert.

0:34:160:34:18

The Macaroni Club wouldn't have settled for anything less.

0:34:180:34:22

Now, I'm going to look after that

0:34:220:34:24

because I need it for something a bit later on.

0:34:240:34:26

After being peeled, the whole pineapple

0:34:280:34:30

including the core was chopped up.

0:34:300:34:34

It was then pounded with an early laboursaving piece of kit.

0:34:340:34:39

This is simply a giant pestle and mortar.

0:34:390:34:42

It's beautifully designed, so this will do all the work for me

0:34:420:34:47

rather than me grinding away.

0:34:470:34:50

When the pounding was complete, the Georgian chefs would mix it

0:34:520:34:55

with a syrup then leave it to stand for a few hours before straining.

0:34:550:34:59

In order to make my ice cream 18th-century style,

0:35:010:35:05

I'm using this equipment.

0:35:050:35:07

This is a wooden freezing pail

0:35:070:35:10

and inside it is a pewter freezing pot or sorbettiera.

0:35:100:35:14

The sorbettiera was placed in the pail

0:35:140:35:17

and packed with layers of ice and salt

0:35:170:35:19

to speed up the freezing process.

0:35:190:35:22

In there at the moment, it will be the temperature of a modern freezer,

0:35:240:35:30

about -13.

0:35:300:35:31

A mixture of the pineapple,

0:35:320:35:34

water and lemon juice are added to the sorbettiera.

0:35:340:35:38

The liquid was then frozen by spinning it around repeatedly

0:35:390:35:42

in the ice pail for about 20 minutes.

0:35:420:35:45

Ice cream first came to England in the 1660s.

0:35:480:35:52

By the early 19th century,

0:35:530:35:55

it was still something that only the wealthy experienced.

0:35:550:35:59

But in Italy, it was a different story

0:35:590:36:02

because impoverished street urchins

0:36:020:36:04

in the city of Naples could enjoy ices sold by street vendors.

0:36:040:36:10

But street food wasn't good enough for the Macaroni Club.

0:36:120:36:15

Their desserts required quite a few more man hours.

0:36:150:36:19

I've got here a mould made out of pewter.

0:36:190:36:24

It actually is from the period of the recipe,

0:36:240:36:27

from the early 19th century.

0:36:270:36:29

I'm going to push this very soft frozen pineapple into the mould.

0:36:290:36:36

By pushing it in, I'll get all of the lovely little details.

0:36:360:36:40

The last step was to seal the mould with butter

0:36:400:36:43

and pop the ice back into the pail for two to three hours.

0:36:430:36:47

Then finally after all the complicated preparation,

0:36:470:36:51

the pineapple ice was ready.

0:36:510:36:53

Just look at that.

0:36:530:36:55

That is a feast fit for the Macaroni.

0:36:560:37:01

I'm going to try the timbalo first of all.

0:37:040:37:07

It is absolutely superb.

0:37:150:37:18

And now for my pineapple ice, which I think looks too beautiful to eat.

0:37:190:37:24

Mm.

0:37:290:37:30

It's got this wonderful silky texture.

0:37:310:37:33

There's no trace of any ice crystals. It's absolutely perfect.

0:37:330:37:38

People made fun of these Macaroni guys,

0:37:380:37:41

but I think they, in some ways, were geniuses

0:37:410:37:45

because they brought back the wonderful taste of Italy,

0:37:450:37:49

which now we just cannot get enough of.

0:37:490:37:52

Viva i Maccaroni.

0:37:520:37:54

Time to meet up with a good friend of mine

0:37:590:38:01

who's brought his fair share of classic Italian cooking to the UK.

0:38:010:38:06

Antonio Carluccio.

0:38:060:38:08

But today, I've invited him over for a taste of my travels

0:38:080:38:12

from much further afield.

0:38:120:38:13

Singapore is where I got the inspiration

0:38:150:38:18

for this tasty chilli crab dish.

0:38:180:38:20

So, I'm going to do some fresh brown crab,

0:38:210:38:23

which is just caught from about 40 miles away

0:38:230:38:26

down on the coast.

0:38:260:38:27

-You know the name in Italian?

-What's this?

0:38:270:38:29

-Granciporro.

-Granciporro.

0:38:290:38:32

So, what got you into food in the first place, then?

0:38:320:38:34

-Greed.

-Greed.

0:38:340:38:36

-Was it your parents? Were they...

-No, no.

0:38:360:38:38

It was very funny because I was brought up in the centre.

0:38:380:38:42

We lived in a station

0:38:420:38:43

-because papa was stationmaster of the railway.

-Right.

0:38:430:38:46

And my mother, when I was a child,

0:38:460:38:47

she was sending me into the office down there

0:38:470:38:50

to see if the train would depart on time

0:38:500:38:53

in order to go up and say yes.

0:38:530:38:56

And she would put the pasta into the water

0:38:560:38:58

so that when papa was coming for the food, the pasta was perfect.

0:38:580:39:02

When you grow up like this, you know that food is important,

0:39:020:39:06

but what I discovered is that in cooking for somebody else

0:39:060:39:10

it is a sort of sharing of a passion,

0:39:100:39:14

but sharing of life as well.

0:39:140:39:16

And it's lovely to eat together with somebody else.

0:39:160:39:20

The meal we're going to share all starts

0:39:200:39:22

with some finely chopped ginger, garlic cloves

0:39:220:39:25

and red bird's-eye chillies.

0:39:250:39:27

Chuck them into hot oil and then add the tops of some spring onions.

0:39:290:39:34

-Well, we saute this off like that.

-Lovely.

0:39:360:39:38

So, you just get them nice and soft, really,

0:39:380:39:40

and then I use this tomato sauce.

0:39:400:39:42

You can use tomato ketchup as well in there.

0:39:420:39:44

And we use, I don't know, about 150ml...

0:39:440:39:47

-But it's a very dark sauce, is it with some...

-It's home-made ketchup.

0:39:470:39:50

A-ha.

0:39:500:39:52

And then we use a combination of this sweet chilli sauce, which I love,

0:39:520:39:56

-about 75ml.

-Wonderful.

0:39:560:39:59

I can already imagine the taste of the crab in that sauce.

0:39:590:40:02

Yeah, it's delicious.

0:40:020:40:04

First time I came across this was in Singapore in a restaurant.

0:40:040:40:07

-It was called Crab Under The Bridge.

-Wow.

0:40:070:40:10

Before you even get served, you just put this bib on

0:40:100:40:13

and this massive bowl of crab arrives

0:40:130:40:14

and you can't understand why this bib's here,

0:40:140:40:16

but you can after about five minutes

0:40:160:40:18

-cos you're just caked in it all around your face.

-Wonderful.

0:40:180:40:21

The key to making a proper mess is the sauce.

0:40:220:40:25

For this, add about 75ml of hoisin,

0:40:260:40:29

a tablespoon of fish sauce

0:40:290:40:31

and the juice of a fresh lime.

0:40:310:40:34

Now you need to sweeten this up a touch, so we're just going to add

0:40:340:40:37

-a little bit of sugar to this.

-Yep.

0:40:370:40:38

That sauce looks very inviting. My goodness!

0:40:380:40:41

-It looks all right, doesn't it?

-Oh, yeah, yeah.

0:40:410:40:43

I know that people, they don't like it,

0:40:430:40:45

but may I put my little finger in there?

0:40:450:40:47

Look, if you do that, I'm going to do that as well.

0:40:470:40:50

Mmm!

0:40:500:40:53

When the sauce is reduced, set one third of it aside,

0:40:530:40:57

then toss the cooked crab in the remaining two thirds

0:40:570:41:00

making sure you coat it thoroughly.

0:41:000:41:03

-Oh, that's...

-Oh, you see?

0:41:030:41:06

You know there's a pleasure from time to time to see

0:41:060:41:08

that the food is treated properly.

0:41:080:41:11

Not really just, you know... Ah!

0:41:110:41:16

Let that simmer away for about five minutes.

0:41:170:41:20

Then combine the remaining sauce with some boiled egg noodles

0:41:210:41:24

and the rest of the spring onions.

0:41:240:41:26

Finally, add some chopped mint and coriander.

0:41:280:41:31

I always try to maintain that classic Italian approach to that,

0:41:310:41:37

which, first of all, has to be taste.

0:41:370:41:40

It's never the look before taste.

0:41:400:41:43

In fact, we have products in Italy called brutti ma buoni,

0:41:430:41:46

which means "ugly but good."

0:41:460:41:49

-Ugly but... I like that name. What's that called?

-Brutti ma buoni.

0:41:490:41:53

And it could be anything.

0:41:530:41:55

Even biscuits, you know, that they look horrible,

0:41:550:41:57

but they taste fantastic.

0:41:570:41:58

Well, that doesn't look too bad to me

0:41:590:42:02

and it also tastes fantastic and smells divine.

0:42:020:42:06

A Far Eastern assault on the senses.

0:42:060:42:09

My goodness. Ah!

0:42:090:42:11

-JAMES LAUGHS

-I can already see me enjoying a lot.

0:42:110:42:16

Look at that!

0:42:160:42:18

-Shall we eat this, then?

-Oh, yes.

-Come on then.

-Oh, yes. Oh, yes.

0:42:180:42:21

I take this one, yes.

0:42:240:42:27

-Ah.

-This is the key to this dish.

0:42:270:42:29

-Oh, the sauce is wonderful.

-You like it?

0:42:320:42:34

Yeah. I will make it.

0:42:340:42:38

-Chin-chin. Good health.

-Oh, lovely.

0:42:380:42:40

There really is nothing better

0:42:420:42:44

than finding culinary inspiration on your travels

0:42:440:42:47

then cooking some delicious dishes for your friends and family

0:42:470:42:51

when you get home.

0:42:510:42:52

You can find all the recipes from the entire series on...

0:42:540:42:59

I'll tell you a little secret. There's a little place in Hampshire

0:43:020:43:05

-that if you ever want Singapore chilli crab...

-In Hampshire?

-Yeah.

0:43:050:43:08

Give me a ring and I'll cook it here. THEY LAUGH

0:43:080:43:12

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