Mary Berry My Life on a Plate


Mary Berry

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'For everyone, there's a taste of food or a smell of cooking that

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-'zooms you right back to childhood.'

-It's just like my mum's cake!

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'I'm Brian Turner...'

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It reminds me of someone I used to know at school.

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'..and I'm going to stir up the food

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'memories of some much-loved celebrities...'

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-Oh!

-Oh!

-Look at that!

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'..going back to their early years before they were famous...'

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-Mm!

-Oh, my gosh!

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'..with recollections of Sunday roasts and school dinners.'

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-It's time for something to eat.

-Brilliant!

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'I'm celebrating the food their home regions are proud of.'

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-Which way would you like to go?

-Er...this way.

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'I'll recreate a nostalgic family favourite...'

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Mm, you can't beat a crumble.

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'..and a tribute dish that puts my guest's life on a plate.'

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Magic. Magic!

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Today, Mary Berry returns to the city of Bath, where she grew up.

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-I was quite naughty.

-She remembers a thrifty childhood...

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We made the most of everything.

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..and the first time her cooking was noticed by her dad.

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-He said that my treacle pudding was as good as mum's.

-Crikey!

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A bit of praise!

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'I'll be in my outdoor kitchen, creating nostalgic food...'

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That gives us lots of energy, if we go dancing tonight, lass!

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'..designed to put Mary's life on a plate.'

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Wow! That looks amazing!

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Mary Berry was born in 1935 in the gorgeous West Country

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city of Bath, famous for its grand Georgian architecture.

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Her father Alan was a surveyor and a town planner who

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served on the local council, eventually becoming mayor in 1952.

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The city's magnificent buildings were the backdrop to her childhood

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and the Roman baths themselves played a particular part

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in Mary's younger life.

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Mary, this is just a beautiful place you've brought me to, it really is.

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Do you know?

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My greatest memory of this particular bath, its hot springs.

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It comes out hot and that is hot.

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And when I was young, we had a dachshund called Rupert, and Rupert,

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like many dachshunds as they get old, lost the use of the back legs.

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And so, Dad, being Chairman of Planning,

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my mother used to come down here with the dog on a lead

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and used to pop the dog in here and the dog would do like this,

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and believe it or not, that dog walked again

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-and had a lot more years of his life.

-Lots of people do that.

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No, you weren't allowed to do that! Nobody's allowed in the water.

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But Mum used to come... Here we are, early in the morning. Listen.

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BELL TOLLS AND SEAGULLS SQUAWK

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-Isn't that lovely?

-The seagulls or the bells?

-The bells.

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Mum used to come early in the morning,

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before there was anybody about...

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-Did your mum get in the water as well?

-No, no.

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She stood on these very steps

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and the dog went in and you can imagine, it strengthened the legs.

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Your father obviously had clout in Bath,

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he obviously was a well-respected member of the community.

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Yes, I like that. I think he did have clout.

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He was very respected, he had definite views

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-and he was a very fair man.

-Do you think that affected your childhood?

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It didn't so much affect my childhood, it's affected me now.

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I am very fair.

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Mary's father was also a keen amateur photographer

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and animal lover,

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and she's inherited a fantastic archive featuring some young

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and very enthusiastic models.

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To find out more about Mary's life growing up in Bath and what role

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food played in her childhood, we're going next door to the Pump Room.

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In Georgian times, the English gentry flocked here to gossip

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and drink the hot spring water, which was claimed had healing powers.

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I'm hoping to find inspiration for two dishes I'm going to

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cook for Mary -

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one full of nostalgia, the other a special tribute to her.

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So, just going back to school days,

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were you interested at all in food in those days at all?

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School was not something I enjoyed a lot.

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I was a bit of a tomboy really and I didn't work very hard

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and at the age of, I suppose, 12, you either did Latin

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and maths, or you did domestic science.

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Right.

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And the Bath High School, they had a new domestic science department.

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I was the luckiest person.

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It had only just been opened and so, I went to do domestic science

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-and that changed my life completely.

-Oh, really?

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Miss Date was our teacher, a little round lady with a huge smile,

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and, you know, she praised what I did, because I was trying very hard,

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because I knew what good food was

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and I made a treacle sponge pudding in a little pudding basin,

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took it home, and Dad never praised any of my work, it wasn't

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worth praising,

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but he said that my treacle pudding was as good as Mum's.

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-He might have even said it was better.

-Oh, crikey!

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A bit of praise! I was so lucky.

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But severe illness made Mary determined to make

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the most of her luck.

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When she was 13, she contracted polio

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and spent three months confined to a hospital bed.

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To try and lift her spirits,

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her father even brought her pony to visit.

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When she recovered, her love of cooking took her to catering college

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and later to the Cordon Bleu School in Paris.

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On her return, she took a job writing recipes for magazines

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and never looked back.

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In 1970, she wrote her first cookbook.

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Since then, she's had over 70 books published,

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covering everything from one-pot meals to cooking for the freezer.

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Throughout the '70s and '80s,

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she presented a regular cookery slot on daytime TV show Good Afternoon.

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Nowadays, thanks to a certain baking show, she has her own series and

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is not only a primetime superstar,

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but something of a national treasure.

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Just go gently round the crispy outside

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and then straight through the middle, and all is revealed.

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Just look at that!

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So, was your household growing up... Was it centred around food at all?

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Or did you ever think in those days, food might take such a major

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-part in your life?

-I don't think that is so, no,

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because it was wartime and, of course, meat was rationed,

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so you didn't always have it, but offal was not rationed

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and not everybody knew what to do with that.

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-No, and not everybody likes offal, for some reason.

-Ooh, I love it!

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-Me too. It's delicious stuff.

-I can remember all those things

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and we also grew a lot in the garden and I remember the vegetables,

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because in the evening, Mum would say, "What do you want?"

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And I used to have squeaky cabbage, because Mum cooked cabbage

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-really well and new potatoes and mint sauce and no meat.

-Oh, right.

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Because actually, I just loved the vegetables so much.

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I remember also, we had goats and she would make

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a bit of butter from the cream and we also kept a pig and...

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-You kept a pig?

-We did. And my father loved his animals.

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So, it didn't affect you personally or as a family,

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the fact that you kept the animals and then, you realised that,

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eventually, you were going to eat them?

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We didn't eat the goats. The goats were there for the milk.

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We would eat the pork, but we weren't allowed to ever

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discuss at mealtimes that that was our pig.

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I remember my brothers sort of saying, that was so and so.

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My father would almost burst into tears - a very unemotional man.

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He would get up from the table and you could see he was so upset.

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Was yours the kind of household that had a pudding when you sat down?

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Yes, and interestingly enough, my mother said in the war,

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when everything was rationed, she said, "If you lot give up

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"having sugar in your tea, you will get the occasional pudding or cake."

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And I particularly remember my mother's bread and butter pudding

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and we all loved it so much.

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Family life was obviously very important to Mary and I've got

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some ideas for a special tribute dish that pays homage to that.

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As we journey back to Mary's youth,

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I've ordered an old teenage favourite of hers - Bath buns.

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These rich, sweet buns have been served in the city since

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the 18th century and were apparently a great favourite of Jane Austen's.

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They look delicious,

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but will they stand up to the Mary Berry treatment?

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The size is right, the lovely shine on top, but this is nib sugar.

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The ones that I remember were sugar lumps that had been crushed up

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and dipped in butter, so that when you ate them, they were soft

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and also, you'd get a lump at the side and it was really good.

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Being a Yorkshire lad,

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butter and sugar can do nothing but help you.

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Let's cut into it and have a look-see.

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Yes, and you're cutting in the right way, that's how we would.

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-We didn't cut it across.

-Thank goodness for that.

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-I could've been in trouble there.

-It's beautifully fresh too.

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Now, that, to me, is a perfect texture.

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-It's the flavour I'm waiting for, though.

-Me too.

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-So, let's just go for it.

-Mm.

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'Ooh! It's like being in the Bake Off tent!'

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That's quite correct.

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-The sugar lumps, the crushed ones, would be actually inside too.

-Yes.

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And that's where the sugar lump has dropped

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and that gives a lovely surprise.

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Did you make these when you were at college?

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Because that's when I remember making Bath buns.

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We didn't because very little time was spent on yeast cookery.

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-We did do filo pastry, I remember. Goodness knows why!

-Really?

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-That was such fun.

-Mm.

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Pulling it, stretching it, throwing it... It was good!

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Never made it since.

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Mary's parents embraced the wartime message to dig for victory,

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growing fruit and veg and keeping animals, including goats,

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in the garden.

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Today, the goat is making a comeback in Britain.

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To find out why, I've come to Hill Farm Dairy, not far from Bath,

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where Will Atkinson and his wife Caroline keep their herd.

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-Morning, Will. How are you?

-Hi, Brian.

-This is just wonderful.

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Look at them. What on earth made you become a goat farmer?

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Caroline, my wife, was working in a cheese shop

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and she really wanted to make her own cheese.

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She wanted to make an unpasteurised cheese

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and so it was important to have our own source of milk.

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That's where I came in. She asked me if I'd keep the goats.

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I was a lawyer, so I had no relevant skills whatsoever,

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but we thought we'd give it a go.

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It was a big learning curve, but goats are really engaging animals.

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They're fantastic and they're great fun. They're big characters.

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And very friendly, I have to say.

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They're inquisitive and they just want to eat your jumper, mainly,

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because they're fibre eaters, not grass eaters.

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They're browsers, not grazers.

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So we let them out and when they go out into the fields,

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they're not as good as sheep at mowing the grass down,

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they're looking for all the docks and the plantains

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and the fibrous stemmy stuff,

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because that's their natural habitat. They're naturally...

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They'll be going round a brushy area, a scrubby area,

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and that's why they're the most popular farm animal in the world,

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because they can turn rough ground into milk and into meat.

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-How many have you got here?

-We've got about 100.

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There's probably just under 100 in the barn here.

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-You've got three main types of goat that we've got in here.

-Right.

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There's two, which were originally Swiss breeds

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and those are called Saanens, the white ones, they're British Saanens.

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-OK.

-And then the brown ones with the normal ears,

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they're the British Toggenburgs and then, the third breed is a sort

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of Middle-Eastern, Mediterranean goat called Manglomunin,

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it's been anglicised again,

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and they've got the massive ears, big Roman noses.

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The goats are milked every morning

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and evening for nine months of the year.

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These days, it's all done by machine,

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but I want to find out how difficult it is to do by hand,

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as Mary's mum used to do.

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How old am I? And this is a first for me!

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So, thumb and first finger, just squeezing the teat into a bit of

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a balloon, like that, so you can see the pressure with the milk in there.

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And then, the other finger just pushes on the balloon to make

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-the milk come out, like that.

-Ah!

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-So, that's not doing the animal any harm at all?

-No.

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-Because that's the way it used to be done, I suppose...

-Exactly.

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-She's happy.

-..for hundreds of years.

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She'd be jumping around if she wasn't happy.

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Anyway, that's how you do it.

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Do you want to try the milk, just before we do it?

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-It's like a Horlicks milkshake.

-Creamy, warm Horlicks, exactly.

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Exactly what it is.

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-Anyway, off you go.

-Right, OK.

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So, just move your legs there a little bit, darling.

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-There's nothing coming out of this.

-She's not kicking you yet, so...

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Thank you very much! Get the balloon and then it's... Yes! I have some!

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We have blast off!

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And she's still happy.

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OK, well done. Thank you very much.

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There are nearly 30,000 dairy goats across the UK today

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and 75% of their milk goes into making cheese.

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The British appetite for high quality artisan cheeses has

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created a boom in small producers like Will and Caroline.

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They make eight tonnes of cheese a year,

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from a small soft cheese, which can be eaten after only ten days, to

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a large hard cheese, which is left to mature for up to six months.

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Now, goats' cheeses from other parts of the world have a reputation

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for strong flavours that not everyone likes.

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So I'm interested to see how these Somerset cheeses compare.

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Perfect, thank you.

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I love the texture and I think it's not overpowering at all.

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-It just builds in the mouth to start with.

-It does. It has a long taste.

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It goes on for a while.

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It's not got a strong, pungent goatiness to it.

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It's quite mild in that respect.

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That's lovely, so let's try the other piece, then.

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Oh, I love the smell.

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-That's got a much stronger smell.

-Absolutely, yes. Yeah.

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I can't understand why anybody would say,

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"I don't like goat's cheese," when they taste that.

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I think that has a lovely, natural sweetness to it,

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one wouldn't have expected from a goat's cheese.

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-It does.

-So here's the 64,000 question -

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what do we drink with a goat's cheese?

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Well, being in Somerset, it would

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only be right to have some cider with it, certainly.

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But more traditionally, perhaps, some white wine.

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Ooh, this is turning into a cracking afternoon, is this.

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-It's magic, thank you very much.

-Cheers, Brian. Thank you.

-Cheers.

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I'm taking Mary on a journey back to her youth

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and I've got a surprise for her.

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In 1998, Mary's old school merged with another girls' school

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in the city to become the Royal High School.

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The school that you used to go to,

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which was then Bath High School, is just down the road.

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-Just down the road on the right.

-And it's closed.

-It's closed.

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It's been vacated and all the students are now in this school.

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-Is that right?

-Absolutely.

-Well, we're very lucky.

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We've got a key to get in to the old school.

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You can go inside and so, I'd love you to go now and have a look.

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It's not what it was,

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but it may bring back some happy memories for you.

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And in the meantime, I'm going to prepare a dish just for you.

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A nostalgic dish that will make you think back to those wonderful days.

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So, off you go. You go and enjoy.

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-You have a good cook.

-I'll do my best.

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We've set up our kitchen in the stunning grounds of the new school

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and I've taken inspiration from Mary's stories of growing up in Bath

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during the Second World War to

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create one of her childhood favourites.

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Now, Mary's mum actually got the rations

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so that she could make a very special pudding.

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I didn't need any rations, I've got enough here.

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I'm going to make a really special bread and butter pudding.

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I know Mary likes simple things

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and I know she's going to really love this.

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Mary hasn't been back to her old school for over 60 years.

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It's empty now, waiting for redevelopment.

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Good gracious! This is all very different.

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Gosh! I remember this!

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This is where I would be rushing in with my satchel

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and grabbing my coat and whatever, because I was always late

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and I would come in here and that's the cloakroom,

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and it hasn't changed at all. The trees have grown up.

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There was just a bank here, which we used to roll down and things.

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But it's very much the same actual building.

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Well, the first thing I remember is the floor.

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That's exactly the same floor.

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I also remember that glorious fireplace.

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And the headmistress's room was here

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and, you see, there's a light above the door and I would be

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terrified, because I would've been told to go and see the headmistress,

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and the procedure was you knocked at the door

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and waited till that green light came on.

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Your heart began to beat and in you went.

0:18:310:18:35

I was frequently called here,

0:18:430:18:46

and I can remember her always looking down and saying,

0:18:460:18:51

"Mary, you're here again," or something like that.

0:18:510:18:54

And, you know, "Try harder," and "Don't do that."

0:18:540:18:58

"We must take life more seriously,"

0:19:000:19:03

which I used to listen to and, for a short time,

0:19:030:19:06

I even believed in it but, you know, it was more fun to do other things.

0:19:060:19:10

I was quite naughty and, er...

0:19:150:19:19

there was quite a little gang of us, really,

0:19:190:19:21

and we loved break and gym and games and all those things,

0:19:210:19:26

but when it came to sort of doing the more serious subjects,

0:19:260:19:31

I wasn't so fond of that.

0:19:310:19:32

The plan with my nostalgia dish

0:19:360:19:38

is to whisk Mary back to happy times at home.

0:19:380:19:41

First, I'm making a deliciously velvety custard.

0:19:420:19:46

I've begun by heating half a pint of cream and half a pint of milk

0:19:460:19:50

together, and adding the seeds of one vanilla pod.

0:19:500:19:53

I've put the pod in as well.

0:19:550:19:57

Get bags of flavour in there to start off with.

0:19:570:19:59

So, whilst that's coming up to the heat, let's take the eggs.

0:19:590:20:03

I want my custard to set when it cooks, so I'm using lots of eggs.

0:20:030:20:07

Six yolks and two...whole eggs.

0:20:070:20:12

I'm adding caster sugar to sweeten.

0:20:130:20:16

But this is a real way to make a lovely custard, is this,

0:20:160:20:19

for bread and butter pudding.

0:20:190:20:21

Then, mixing in the hot, creamy milk.

0:20:210:20:23

Lovely. It's thickening already, is that.

0:20:250:20:28

I don't want to thicken it any more, because we'll do that in the oven

0:20:280:20:31

when we get everything else ready.

0:20:310:20:33

Right. Time to start building my pudding.

0:20:330:20:36

I'm going to use a bit of brioche bread,

0:20:360:20:38

so that's an enriched bread, it's got extra butter in there

0:20:380:20:41

and sugar in there - it's lovely sweet.

0:20:410:20:44

Just put a little bit of butter on these slices here.

0:20:440:20:46

Looking at that, I think we need about ten slices.

0:20:460:20:49

Of course, the beauty of this is it gets rid of stale bread,

0:20:540:20:57

if you've got any about.

0:20:570:20:59

My dad used to make this, but it was very simple when he made it.

0:20:590:21:02

In fact, I'm sure it was bread and marge pudding.

0:21:020:21:05

Now, I happen to know Mary used to enjoy making marmalade with her mum.

0:21:050:21:09

So, now, we're going to put marmalade onto our bread and butter pudding.

0:21:090:21:13

Your decision, whatever kind of marmalade you want to use.

0:21:180:21:21

This is just traditional stuff. Looks lovely.

0:21:210:21:23

I've cut each slice in half to arrange in a buttered dish.

0:21:240:21:27

Push that down and then, we're just going to strain...

0:21:310:21:34

the custard over the top.

0:21:340:21:35

Now, I think it's a good idea to leave this, then,

0:21:350:21:39

for about 40, 45 minutes,

0:21:390:21:43

so that the bread soaks up

0:21:430:21:45

all this delicious, luscious custard.

0:21:450:21:49

I don't want to lose those seeds either,

0:21:510:21:53

so just put those back on there.

0:21:530:21:56

That looks good.

0:21:580:21:59

This was the library.

0:22:080:22:09

The one thing you had to do was total silence.

0:22:110:22:14

I always used to go right to the window,

0:22:150:22:18

because there was always... You could see other people playing

0:22:180:22:21

and doing things, but this is totally different now.

0:22:210:22:24

There were no trees there. It was just beautifully mown grass

0:22:260:22:30

that went down to the junior school and beyond our playing field.

0:22:300:22:34

When I say playing field, it was TO PLAY.

0:22:340:22:37

I can remember in the summer they would cut all the grass,

0:22:370:22:41

then we collected up the hay and we made little, sort of, houses,

0:22:410:22:45

like tents, and we'd get in them.

0:22:450:22:47

But I spent very little time in the library

0:22:470:22:50

and I wasn't a bookish child. I'd much rather be outside and playing.

0:22:500:22:54

I'm making my own take on a bread and butter pudding.

0:22:550:22:59

For the custard, I heated cream, milk and a vanilla pod.

0:22:590:23:03

Meanwhile, I beat six egg yolks and two whole eggs with sugar,

0:23:050:23:09

then stirred in the creamy milk.

0:23:090:23:11

I've used slices of brioche bread, spread with butter and marmalade

0:23:120:23:16

and arranged in a buttered, ovenproof dish with the custard poured on top.

0:23:160:23:20

I've placed it in a tray of water, or bain-marie,

0:23:220:23:25

to cook for about half an hour.

0:23:250:23:27

All that remains to make is a crunchy topping.

0:23:280:23:31

Wotcha. How was it down the school?

0:23:310:23:34

Well, of course, it was a little bit sad

0:23:340:23:36

but, gosh, there were lots of memories there.

0:23:360:23:39

-Oh, really?

-Much of it was still the same.

0:23:390:23:42

OK, so, what I'm doing here, I've got a bit of water in there,

0:23:420:23:46

put a bit of sugar in there, make a bit of syrup,

0:23:460:23:49

and I'm going to take these bits of zest and I'm going to just cook

0:23:490:23:53

those in the syrup,

0:23:530:23:55

and then, we'll mix it with these chopped pistachios.

0:23:550:23:58

They've got this lovely colour.

0:23:580:24:00

Mum used to do whole bananas dipped in chocolate

0:24:000:24:04

and then, with the pistachio, and I'm talking about when...

0:24:040:24:09

The earliest memories, that was, when I was very, very young.

0:24:090:24:12

Well, you'll be very sad to hear that the only bit I'm going to do

0:24:120:24:16

is the pistachio.

0:24:160:24:18

-It's a lovely smell of orange coming now.

-It's nice, isn't it?

0:24:180:24:21

It's almost to say you're in the kitchen and you're making marmalade.

0:24:210:24:24

Those were great moments.

0:24:240:24:25

You always knew what was going on because you could smell it.

0:24:250:24:28

First thing Mum would do was we'd shut the kitchen door

0:24:280:24:31

so it didn't go throughout the house.

0:24:310:24:32

Smells of childhood can be amazingly evocative

0:24:320:24:36

and, so far, I seem to be pressing all the right buttons.

0:24:360:24:39

To get a really crunchy topping, I'm straining the zest,

0:24:410:24:44

then adding the chopped pistachios.

0:24:440:24:46

When it's cooled, I'll chop it again.

0:24:480:24:50

Just one last finishing touch.

0:24:510:24:54

The nice thing about this is we waste nowt.

0:24:540:24:56

Look at that, just perfect.

0:24:560:24:58

-Wow, that looks amazing!

-Thank you.

0:25:010:25:03

Interesting you cook it in a bain-marie.

0:25:030:25:06

Saves getting bubbles in the mixture, saves it souffleing

0:25:060:25:08

and I just thought if it had, you might criticise me,

0:25:080:25:11

because every time I see you, you seem to be criticising people's food.

0:25:110:25:14

I am.

0:25:140:25:16

Oh, I can't wait.

0:25:160:25:17

I can't remember the last time I was so nervous serving up a pudding!

0:25:170:25:22

Look at the custard, not a bubble in sight.

0:25:220:25:25

Turning it upside down just shows off the fact that you've made

0:25:280:25:31

a perfect custard.

0:25:310:25:33

I want this nostalgic bread and butter pudding, with its luxurious,

0:25:350:25:39

creamy custard, to be as much a treat for Mary as her mother's was.

0:25:390:25:44

Finished with a crunchy pistachio and orange zest topping,

0:25:440:25:48

it's designed to be an evocative plateful of memories.

0:25:480:25:51

How exciting is that?

0:25:510:25:53

I don't know. How nerve-racking is it?

0:25:540:25:57

-You've got to have some of the pistachio and orange.

-No, quite.

0:25:570:26:00

Mmm, it gives a lovely crunch on the top.

0:26:020:26:06

And I have a suspicion that there is some cream in here.

0:26:060:26:10

Yes, there is, you're quite right.

0:26:100:26:11

There wouldn't have been cream in your mum's, I take it?

0:26:110:26:13

No, no. In Mum's, it was pure milk and it would have been

0:26:130:26:16

goats' milk, because that's what we have in the war.

0:26:160:26:18

I mean, this is sheer luxury.

0:26:180:26:20

Here's the question, would it have been, with your mum's,

0:26:200:26:23

with custard powder, or did she actually make it with eggs and sugar?

0:26:230:26:27

Definitely made it with eggs

0:26:270:26:28

-and sugar, because we had hens.

-Good girl.

-Oh, not custard powder.

0:26:280:26:31

This is so good.

0:26:310:26:32

That's a very luxurious version of my mum's pudding,

0:26:340:26:38

but am I enjoying it? Yes, a lot.

0:26:380:26:40

-Good girl, that's what I like to see.

-Thank you very much.

0:26:400:26:43

-Not a bubble in sight - look at that.

-Perfection.

0:26:430:26:47

A home-made pudding wasn't the only luxury Mary would have looked

0:26:490:26:52

forward to growing up in ration book Britain.

0:26:520:26:55

Sugar shortages throughout her childhood meant

0:26:560:26:59

the sale of sweets had to be restricted right up until 1953.

0:26:590:27:04

No kiddy under eight has known what it is to buy sweets off points.

0:27:050:27:09

Tuck shop commandoes will soon be storming the counters.

0:27:090:27:12

Don't worry about yours permanently glued together with humbug,

0:27:120:27:15

ask your dentist for a new set of teeth on the state.

0:27:150:27:18

By this time, though, most of the small sweet manufacturers,

0:27:210:27:24

who would have thrived in virtually every town, had closed down.

0:27:240:27:29

Lost with them were unique sweets, which would have been made,

0:27:290:27:32

sold and sucked locally.

0:27:320:27:35

But not far from Bath, in Cheddar,

0:27:360:27:38

a small family business - hand-making sweets

0:27:380:27:41

the traditional way - has kept alive some old West Country favourites.

0:27:410:27:46

We make the pineapple rock. We do it two different ways.

0:27:460:27:49

We do it with a picture of the fruit inside, which is

0:27:490:27:51

known nationally, and then, we also make it red on the outside

0:27:510:27:54

and yellow in the centre, which is a traditional Somerset product.

0:27:540:27:58

We also make the mint shrimp and then, the Bath bull's-eye.

0:27:580:28:01

Alexandra is the fifth generation Mizen to roll out

0:28:030:28:07

sweets by hand, using only boiled sugar,

0:28:070:28:10

glucose and a few natural colourings and flavourings.

0:28:100:28:14

It's magical to watch.

0:28:140:28:16

She learnt all she knows from her grandfather, Martin.

0:28:160:28:19

Most of the recipes handed down through the generations,

0:28:190:28:22

word of mouth.

0:28:220:28:23

I do have some of them written down, but I'm afraid, uh,

0:28:230:28:27

most of it's in here.

0:28:270:28:30

One old-fashioned sweet Mary might have sucked as a girl

0:28:300:28:33

was the Bath bull's-eye.

0:28:330:28:35

Bath bull's-eyes, originally made in the 1930s, to my knowledge.

0:28:350:28:40

Traditional brown peppermint with some white stripes on it.

0:28:400:28:44

Nowadays, of course, non-existent.

0:28:440:28:47

We're sugar-pulling, so we're pulling air into the sugar.

0:28:470:28:50

Makes it opaque and, in this case,

0:28:500:28:52

because we haven't added any colour, it's going to turn it white.

0:28:520:28:56

Also increasing the volume and changing the texture

0:28:560:28:59

of the sugar, so when it cools, it'll become crisp and crunchy.

0:28:590:29:04

And then we, literally, just make stripes by putting the brown

0:29:040:29:07

and the white sugar together,

0:29:070:29:09

pulling it, cutting it, so we get four stripes.

0:29:090:29:12

This is what we call a batch roller.

0:29:170:29:20

It's keeping the batch warm

0:29:200:29:22

and it's also taking it from being short and fat

0:29:220:29:25

to being long and thin.

0:29:250:29:26

And anything that's made in a rope form, like bull's-eyes,

0:29:270:29:31

all made in machines like this,

0:29:310:29:34

built in the 1920s and originally powered by hand.

0:29:340:29:38

Worth its weight in gold, although it's so old.

0:29:380:29:41

Many of the traditional sweets Martin and Alex make

0:29:440:29:47

are remembered as much for their shape as their flavour.

0:29:470:29:51

These are what we call drop rollers, made in the 1920s and '30s.

0:29:530:29:59

That one was made specially for a company in Yeovil back in the 1930s,

0:29:590:30:03

were called the original Somerset herbal tablets,

0:30:030:30:07

still made here.

0:30:070:30:08

Very popular in the winter. Good for people with coughs and colds.

0:30:080:30:12

One of the best loved sweets in these parts, though,

0:30:130:30:16

was the mint shrimp.

0:30:160:30:19

Well, mint shrimps were made, basically, for the miners who

0:30:190:30:22

worked in the Somerset coalfields.

0:30:220:30:24

Miners traditionally have taken boiled sweets to work.

0:30:240:30:27

Up in the North-east, the miners' favourite was the black bullet.

0:30:270:30:31

In South Wales, it was always the Welsh mint.

0:30:310:30:36

Sucking on the boiled sugar

0:30:360:30:39

helps to combat the dirt and dust.

0:30:390:30:41

I can actually remember, back in the '60s,

0:30:450:30:47

when there were at least seven or eight

0:30:470:30:51

small home-made sweet shops in north Somerset

0:30:510:30:55

and Wiltshire all making mint shrimps.

0:30:550:30:58

And they're all gone now. We're the only ones left.

0:30:580:31:02

I think the way that we make sweets here is really special.

0:31:020:31:05

There's not many of us left now making sweets this way,

0:31:050:31:08

and I feel like it's a bit of a dying trade.

0:31:080:31:10

It's up to us to keep it going.

0:31:100:31:12

I shall be very happy now to retire.

0:31:130:31:16

I think I've done my bit.

0:31:160:31:18

I'm taking Mary on a trip down memory lane, and I've brought

0:31:250:31:29

her back to the house where she spent most of her younger days.

0:31:290:31:32

So, what do you feel like now walking down this road,

0:31:330:31:36

for the first time in you don't know how many years?

0:31:360:31:39

-Well, it's a long while - about 65 years.

-Ooh!

0:31:390:31:43

-And...let's just see... Oh, God.

-There it is, look.

0:31:430:31:46

You know, looking up at those windows,

0:31:460:31:48

I remember in the war, in April, we had two days' bombing in Bath,

0:31:480:31:52

and every single one of those windows were shattered.

0:31:520:31:56

-Were you in the house at the time?

-We were in the cellar.

0:31:560:31:58

All in the cellar, underground, and grandparents who'd come down

0:31:580:32:02

from Hull to get away from the bombs.

0:32:020:32:04

Anyway, looking at that, it's a fine house, isn't it?

0:32:040:32:07

You go and have a quick look round, bring back some fantastic memories.

0:32:070:32:12

I'm going to cook for you a little tribute dish.

0:32:120:32:15

One or two things you've said have given me some ideas,

0:32:150:32:18

-so go and enjoy.

-Thank you.

0:32:180:32:20

Since Mary lived here, the house has been split in two.

0:32:230:32:28

It's really sad to see the house divided in half,

0:32:280:32:32

with this thick hedge right down the middle of the lawn.

0:32:320:32:35

We used to play all across here, and Mum would so often

0:32:350:32:39

be playing the piano and the windows would be open,

0:32:390:32:41

which she'd be keeping an eye on us in the garden as well.

0:32:410:32:45

I always remember the garden more than anywhere else,

0:32:480:32:52

and that bay tree. I was sent from the kitchen to get

0:32:520:32:57

bayleaves from that and there it is feet high now.

0:32:570:33:01

And, of course, no tarmac here, this was all lawn,

0:33:010:33:05

and, then, no houses the other side, just fields and cows.

0:33:050:33:10

And we made a camp here,

0:33:100:33:13

and my brothers and I had a fire

0:33:130:33:16

and we had a pipe that went outside our camp,

0:33:160:33:20

that came across the fire,

0:33:200:33:22

so that if you poured water at the top, it would

0:33:220:33:25

run through into a bowl and you would have hot water for washing up.

0:33:250:33:29

So, over here, this window, behind there, was the boiler

0:33:350:33:39

and it took up a whole room, but we very rarely had it on,

0:33:390:33:43

because Dad was very frugal and, you know, "Just put on another jumper."

0:33:430:33:47

And, as you go further in, there were other rooms

0:33:470:33:50

and Dad used to grow mushrooms and that was very exciting.

0:33:500:33:54

It was all very dark and...

0:33:540:33:56

now I think about it, I don't know how we ate all the mushrooms,

0:33:560:34:00

but he grew them.

0:34:000:34:01

But to the vegetable garden, that was straight back here.

0:34:010:34:04

While Mary is off to explore her old back garden, we've set up

0:34:080:34:12

our pop-up kitchen round the front, to create my tribute dish to her.

0:34:120:34:16

It was a surprise to me to discover Mary Berry,

0:34:180:34:21

the queen of cakes, loves offal.

0:34:210:34:24

It was often the only meat she got to eat when she was a child,

0:34:240:34:27

and I happen to know one of her favourite parts was tongue.

0:34:270:34:32

So, I've got some ox tongue, some ham and some chicken.

0:34:320:34:35

I'm going to make a pie. I know that Mary loves pies

0:34:350:34:39

and fresh vegetables as if they were fresh from her dad's garden.

0:34:390:34:42

First thing we need to do, we need to get the leeks on,

0:34:420:34:45

ready to go with our pie.

0:34:450:34:46

Mixed in with the meaty filling, the leeks will add colour and flavour.

0:34:480:34:53

I'm sauteing mine in butter and chicken stock,

0:34:530:34:56

which will help make a tasty gravy.

0:34:560:34:59

Bit of salt...

0:34:590:35:01

bit of pepper, and we'll just let those cook

0:35:010:35:04

for a couple of minutes, no more, just to start to soften them up.

0:35:040:35:08

To remind Mary of all that fresh veg her dad used to grow,

0:35:090:35:13

I've got some carrots with their tops on.

0:35:130:35:15

Just so that they look as if they're fresh from the garden,

0:35:150:35:18

so take that off,

0:35:180:35:20

and all I'm going to do now is cut those in half,

0:35:200:35:24

trim up the bottom - and I haven't peeled them,

0:35:240:35:28

they're just nicely washed, are these.

0:35:280:35:30

Okey doke, here's my leeks.

0:35:300:35:32

They've kept a lovely colour, that's what I want.

0:35:320:35:34

Just want them to cool down a little bit now,

0:35:340:35:36

so I'm going to put them into this bowl here.

0:35:360:35:39

Adding more cold chicken stock to them now will help cool them quickly,

0:35:390:35:44

and I'll cook my carrots in butter and chicken stock, too.

0:35:440:35:48

Season...

0:35:520:35:54

and for a lustrous glaze, add a bit of sugar.

0:35:540:35:57

Now, we'll just let that slowly simmer away,

0:35:570:36:00

get rid of the liquor and all the flavour will go into the carrots

0:36:000:36:04

and then, we'll just get a really nice shine on, so they look

0:36:040:36:07

really pretty when we present them on the plate.

0:36:070:36:09

Now for the main attraction...

0:36:110:36:14

my meaty filling of tongue, chicken and ham.

0:36:140:36:18

I can just imagine this is the kind of dish

0:36:180:36:20

that Mary's mum would have made.

0:36:200:36:22

OK, so, put into the bowl.

0:36:240:36:26

The only other thing I want now is some fresh parsley.

0:36:280:36:31

Freshly chopped at the last minute.

0:36:310:36:33

And here I've got some rough puff pastry. I've made the pastry,

0:36:350:36:39

but, you see, just as easy sometimes to buy some puff pastry.

0:36:390:36:42

So, all I need to do now is to put the pie together.

0:36:420:36:44

So, imagine there was a little narrow path here,

0:36:480:36:51

and we would start the vegetable garden up here.

0:36:510:36:54

Neat little rows of vegetables, just like Mr McGregor.

0:36:540:36:59

No garages up here - there were greenhouses.

0:36:590:37:02

One was for flowers and then, the other greenhouse would have

0:37:020:37:05

tomatoes and cucumbers, and we were always sent to do the watering.

0:37:050:37:09

Then this, plus double this side - the other side -

0:37:090:37:13

would be all vegetables.

0:37:130:37:15

There were raspberries and strawberries, and Mum had to

0:37:150:37:18

grow sweet peas at the top, and I'm just the same as she is,

0:37:180:37:22

and I've grown sweet peas ever since I've had been married and had room.

0:37:220:37:26

We made the most of everything.

0:37:290:37:31

So, right now, I would be standing in the middle of the raspberries

0:37:350:37:39

and then, there would have been beans, runner beans.

0:37:390:37:42

There were fruit trees.

0:37:420:37:44

We were self-sufficient, really, in the war, for vegetables

0:37:440:37:47

and fruit, and the goats were in a pen right over to the right,

0:37:470:37:53

which is in the other half of the garden,

0:37:530:37:55

and they were white and they used to

0:37:550:37:59

make very sweet noises that would wake us up in the morning.

0:37:590:38:02

It was a very happy childhood for me.

0:38:030:38:05

As a tribute to those happy times,

0:38:080:38:11

I'm baking Mary a pie in her old front garden.

0:38:110:38:14

I diced leek and softened in butter and chicken stock

0:38:150:38:19

and cooked garden carrots the same way.

0:38:190:38:21

For the meaty filling, I mixed cubes of cooked chicken,

0:38:210:38:25

ham and tongue, adding freshly chopped parsley.

0:38:250:38:28

-The most wonderful smell's coming here.

-Oh!

0:38:300:38:33

Ah, look at the blessed rain!

0:38:330:38:35

I've had to put this umbrella up just to look after you.

0:38:350:38:38

Well, I'm glad you've done that, I don't like getting wet.

0:38:380:38:40

No, me neither. So, this is a lovely mixture for a pie,

0:38:400:38:44

and I remember you saying that you had lots of offal during the war

0:38:440:38:48

-and you loved it and your favourite was ox tongue.

-Yes.

0:38:480:38:51

You know, when Mum used to cook a whole ox tongue, she used to

0:38:510:38:54

split it in half and then put it in a sort of six-inch cake tin,

0:38:540:38:58

as it was then, and she'd put the cut side down

0:38:580:39:02

and the other one, the cut side up,

0:39:020:39:04

before she pressed it, so when you turned it out, it looked beautiful.

0:39:040:39:09

No pressure, then!

0:39:090:39:11

Plenty of stock in there, so it's just a nice gravy with it.

0:39:110:39:14

-That's what I want.

-Ooh!

0:39:140:39:16

And, over here, we've got some ready-made rough puff pastry.

0:39:160:39:21

And I know what I always do is, that's had four turns,

0:39:210:39:25

-that's what I do.

-That's exactly it, yes.

0:39:250:39:27

And that's the way I was taught at college.

0:39:270:39:31

Would you just like to hold this table?

0:39:310:39:33

I'm just holding everything. OK.

0:39:330:39:36

Looks really good, nice evenly distributed fat in the pastry.

0:39:360:39:40

I'm going to get good marks here from Judge Mary.

0:39:420:39:45

You know, Mum always used enamel and I've still got the enamel

0:39:460:39:50

plates. They're awfully chipped but who cares?

0:39:500:39:53

So, I'm going to do it the old-fashioned way.

0:39:530:39:56

I'm going to put a little border round the top as well.

0:39:560:39:58

That's exactly what I do. And you wet round here so it sticks.

0:39:580:40:01

-That's exactly what I'm going to do.

-I think we'd be quite a good team,

0:40:010:40:05

-you know?

-I think we would.

-I could put that on for you.

0:40:050:40:09

I'm not sure I should actually be asking my guest to help.

0:40:120:40:15

You're supposed to be here just having a jolly good time.

0:40:150:40:18

No, but you can't stop interfering - I can't.

0:40:180:40:20

Then, I'll egg that.

0:40:200:40:22

Thank you very much.

0:40:220:40:24

I love this next little bit...

0:40:240:40:27

when you trim, trim the edges.

0:40:270:40:30

At an angle because it shrinks.

0:40:300:40:32

Yeah, and it's so neat.

0:40:320:40:34

-I tell you, did we go to the same school?

-I think we did.

0:40:340:40:37

So, then, this is the next bit that I just love. I'm not a great...

0:40:380:40:42

-Go on, then.

-I just love crimping and it shows you just care.

0:40:420:40:45

Looks home-made.

0:40:450:40:46

Ta-da!

0:40:490:40:51

Finally, I'm using egg-wash to glaze,

0:40:510:40:53

and creating a hole to let the steam out.

0:40:530:40:57

A nice hot oven, 180.

0:40:570:40:59

It'll probably take about 35 minutes...ish.

0:40:590:41:02

Well, of course, it's in a metal dish, so it won't take much longer.

0:41:020:41:06

Looks good.

0:41:120:41:14

Smells...

0:41:140:41:16

Ah! It's a gorgeous colour.

0:41:160:41:19

It's sort of chestnut colour on top, isn't it?

0:41:190:41:21

And I've got one extra trick up my sleeve.

0:41:210:41:25

So, what I like to do is just take a little bit of butter,

0:41:250:41:28

-just get that little bit of shine.

-And it's so good for us as well.

0:41:280:41:31

Absolutely right. Gives us lots of energy

0:41:310:41:33

if we go dancing tonight, lass.

0:41:330:41:35

My tribute dish for Mary is inspired by her childhood love of offal.

0:41:400:41:45

Succulent ox tongue in a meaty pie,

0:41:450:41:48

served with crunchy glazed carrots on the side - freshly picked,

0:41:480:41:52

just as her father would have produced.

0:41:520:41:55

Your life on a plate.

0:41:550:41:57

Can't wait.

0:41:570:41:59

Oh, doesn't that look exciting?

0:41:590:42:02

And the pastry is just the right thickness.

0:42:020:42:03

-Look at the way it breaks. I'm going straight for the tongue.

-Good girl.

0:42:030:42:08

Oh, this tongue is... melts in your mouth.

0:42:140:42:16

It's interesting - there are a lot of people who don't like tongue,

0:42:160:42:19

but when those that do like it - I'm on your side - it is delicious.

0:42:190:42:23

-Mmm.

-Inexpensive and good for you.

0:42:230:42:26

And an ox tongue, you can only get at Christmas time in supermarkets,

0:42:260:42:30

but in a good butcher's you'll get it any time of the year. Ox tongue.

0:42:300:42:34

Mmm, and these carrots.

0:42:340:42:36

Now, what did you do with those carrots? They were so good.

0:42:390:42:42

Just put them in a little bit of melted butter, bit of sugar,

0:42:420:42:45

salt, pepper and then, a bit of chicken stock on top,

0:42:450:42:49

and then, just let them slowly cook away on the side, there.

0:42:490:42:52

Oh, it's really.... It's superb.

0:42:520:42:55

And I have to say, it's better than me mother would have made.

0:42:550:42:59

Mary, it's been a pleasure having you here today.

0:42:590:43:01

I really hope you've enjoyed the experience of looking

0:43:010:43:04

back at life through food.

0:43:040:43:05

That is my life on a plate and I'm proud to think it's mine.

0:43:050:43:09

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