Alistair McGowan My Life on a Plate


Alistair McGowan

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Transcript


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'For everyone, there's a taste of food,

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'or a smell of cooking that zooms you right back to childhood.'

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It's just like my mum's cake!

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'I'm Brian Turner...'

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It reminds me of someone I used to know at school.

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'..and I'm going to stir up the food memories

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'of some much-loved celebrities...'

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-Oh!

-Look at that!

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'..going back to their early years, before they were famous.'

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Oh, my gosh!

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'With recollections of Sunday roasts and school dinners...'

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-It's time for something to eat.

-Brilliant.

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'..and celebrating food their home regions are proud of.'

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-Which way would you like to go?

-Er, this way.

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'I'll recreate a nostalgic family favourite...'

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Mmm. You can't beat a crumble.

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'..and a tribute dish that puts my guest's life on a plate.'

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Magic. Magic.

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'Today, actor and comedian Alistair McGowan

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'returns to Worcestershire, where he grew up.'

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'The walk back in time revives vivid memories...'

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HE GASPS

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Oh, my goodness! Oh, it smells the same.

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HE SNIFFS

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'School days are fondly remembered...'

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Everything happened in this little hall, I think, that I liked.

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'..and I'll be rustling up dishes...'

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Smells great.

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'..full of the tastes of childhood.'

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I was worried, you know, in a Paul Hollywood sort of way,

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that it wasn't always going to gel together,

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but you've done a very, very good job.

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-ANNOUNCER:

-Come with us to the beautiful Vale of Evesham,

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scene of market gardens and orchards, fringing the banks

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of the River Avon. It's here, among other delicacies, that the harvest

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of home-grown 'sparagrass', or if you prefer it, asparagus,

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is in full swing.

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'Alistair is from the market town of Evesham in Worcestershire,

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'on the sleepy banks of the River Avon.

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'Fruit and vegetables have been grown here since medieval times,

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'but it was in the 19th century that business boomed for Evesham's

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'surrounding market gardens and numerous fruit orchards.

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'Today, the Vale is rightly proud of its heritage,

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'and it's something Alistair has experienced first-hand.

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'When he was a lad, he regularly worked here, in this orchard,

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'picking fruit.'

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-Welcome to Evesham.

-Yeah.

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Growing up here in Evesham, I mean, plums were just everywhere.

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I mean, they grew everything, but plums were such a staple part

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of the diet here and a part of everybody's work experience, really.

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And as a kid, I think, I wasn't alone, a load of us,

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you know, during school times, school holidays, and certainly

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during, you know, breaks from college and university,

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would come back and pick the seasonal fruit,

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come and plum pick, yeah.

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So, you are an Evesham lad.

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-You were born and bred here.

-Yep.

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Lived here for how many years?

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I was here till I was 18, and then moved away

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and live in London now, but I've still got family in the area,

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so I've been coming back for years.

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And always feel a great affinity with it,

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and really, those days amongst the fruit and the produce,

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when I was late teens, were really very special.

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So, you come from an era then when five-a-day was easy to do

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because it was in the season.

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Yes. Certainly five fruit was easy to do. Vegetables less so,

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because I'm from an era also, and I'm sure a lot of people will

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know this, maybe you too, that mothers, especially mothers

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who'd been brought up during the war, would overcook vegetables

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so much that they were just pulverised green mush.

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So, I didn't really start to enjoy vegetables

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until I learnt the beauty of steaming.

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Asparagus, it is considered by many to be

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-the king of vegetables.

-Yes.

-Do you have good memories of asparagus

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-or not?

-No, I do like asparagus now, but as a child, no,

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I absolutely hated it because it was... Again, it was overcooked

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and my mother would put it in butter on the table, and this thing,

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this limp thing would be held up dripping in butter and stripped,

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and there was this awful stringy bit left, and I tried it once

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and thought it was absolutely horrible, absolutely horrible.

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But now, if it's steamed, I think it is just absolutely beautiful.

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'As we take Alistair on a journey into his past,

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'I am going to gather ideas from his childhood and home life,

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'take inspiration from this part of Britain,

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'and mix it all together to create two very special dishes for him.

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'Alistair McGowan is famous for his work as a comedian

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'and impressionist. In recent years, he's starred

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'in critically acclaimed theatre productions.

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'He got his first break providing many of the voices

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'for the controversial TV satire Spitting Image.

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'But it was the award-winning series The Big Impression

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'that made him a household name.'

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The headlines again, fighting there, trouble over there,

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corruption further over there and Tony Blair has cut his hair.

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Why I had to wait here 27 minutes just to do that again, I don't know.

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Bye for now.

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LAUGHTER

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'Alistair's already given me a strong impression of his great

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'fondness for his hometown here in the Vale of Evesham.'

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'Walking around this orchard,

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'his formative childhood memories are falling like ripe fruit.'

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-Here we are.

-So, here is somewhere that you'll know.

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-Yes.

-Bring back happy memories?

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A ladder. It does. Some very happy memories, yeah.

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They always seemed taller in those days, and it's not

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cos I'm taller now. The trees were that big.

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I think they're cultivated smaller now. Safety reasons, I don't know.

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But the worst... I mean, the ladder was your great tool,

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your ladder and your belt and your basket,

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and I think we had some, dare I say, health and safety.

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-Just one little comment about how to put a ladder up a tree.

-Be careful.

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-Be careful.

-That's a traditional basket, is it?

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-That's a traditional basket.

-Are you going to show how to put it on?

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-Yeah, I'll do it.

-Can you remember?

-Oh, yes.

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So, you want to loop your...

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-Loop it through.

-Oh, right. OK.

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And then that's your basket. That's your favourite little tool there,

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-and then you are as one. There we are.

-Oh, well done.

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Go on, show us how it's done. I won't go up the ladder yet,

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-I'll do the lower ones.

-That's a good idea.

-Cos a lot of them

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just fall off, so you want to keep your basket underneath, obviously.

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And you can just slip them off.

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See, that's a technique I never would have thought of,

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that you just actually pull them and then let them just drop.

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Yeah, yeah, yeah.

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And you can get loads in there.

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'This orchard is owned by Mick Morton,

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'who's been growing plums here since 1953.'

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'He was Alistair's boss in the picking season,

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'all those years ago!'

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What are the main varieties that this country grows these days?

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My main, well, the main crop, is a Victoria,

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because everybody knows Victorias.

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All these trees here, there's 1,000 trees in all, I planted them myself.

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So, these are definitely trees that you picked from.

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They would have been, yeah, yeah.

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How does that feel?

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Well, I thought I recognised this one, actually.

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I felt an affinity with it. You know, it's interesting,

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cos since the age of 17, more or less, I've had intermittent

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back trouble, and I've never been able to work out why,

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but standing here with this basket round, I thought,

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"Now I know where my back trouble came from!"

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-Cos when these things get full of plums...

-24lb.

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And if you're going up and down a ladder...

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-Yeah, I think that's what it was.

-Rather you than me!

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Now, mate, I see you've got some more down here.

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These look like a very different variety.

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-Are these earlier ones?

-Very early. these are Herman,

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and they generally come in about the first/second week in July,

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but I always say, when you... I notice you both...

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Always open a plum like that first.

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-Have a look to see if there's grub inside.

-Oh!

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-Now he tells you!

-I trusted you.

-There you go.

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Take... Take... Take that out.

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-Lovely. Beautiful taste.

-Good to meet you.

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-Cheers, we'll see you later.

-Good to see you, Mick.

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I present you with your basket back.

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'These tasty plums have given me some great ideas for later on.'

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'But for now, let's find out more about Alistair's childhood.'

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What was family life like? You have a sister.

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-Yep, yep.

-And your mother and dad were teachers.

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Yes. Yes, and it was a lovely arrangement, really,

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because being teachers, they were both in primary schools,

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so they finished pretty early, so whenever we were at home,

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they were at home, and there was a great sense of family life,

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and certainly, you know, the evening meal was really, really important

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and we ate together every night.

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My mother was very hard working,

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she worked all day in the school

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and then she'd always cook us something at night when we got home.

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And was your mum a good cook?

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She cooked very well and she cooked typical food,

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sort of post-war food, really.

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She used to do meat and two veg and I used to love liver.

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She used to do a lot of liver and she would always cook it really dry.

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There was a period when your mum went through

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going to the frozen supermarket and buying frozen bits and pieces.

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Yeah, it was in the late '70s, I think, and everybody did it.

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We thought it was very exotic to have Findus crispy pancakes

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and we had them kind of every single night.

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So if you could go back to the past and your mum could cook it,

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what dishes would instantly come to mind, apart from the liver?

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She used to do some lovely desserts.

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Her Sunday roasts were always very good

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and she used to do lovely desserts.

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Lemon meringue pie, she did very well.

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Fruit crumble, she used to do very well. Treacle tarts.

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The one dish she used to do and I've asked her about it,

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and she doesn't know whether she made it up or not,

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was something she called Egg Riviera, which sounded very posh.

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It was the '70s, I think you gave French names to everything

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to make them sound more exotic.

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We did. In the profession, we did that, as well.

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So what was Egg Riviera?

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Egg Riviera was this thing that she did with boiled egg,

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which would then be sliced up and put into a big glass dish,

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it was always in the same dish,

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with boiled potatoes that were already boiled

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and then a cheese sauce over it

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and then a very well-cooked bacon, as well.

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Normally, sort of really crispy bacon.

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So it was really, you know, eggs, bacon, cheese sauce and potatoes,

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but it was delicious.

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And we'd put, which I didn't normally like,

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but I should have done, Worcester sauce,

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and we'd put Worcester sauce on it

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and it always worked on that a treat.

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What about school dinners?

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Did you do school dinners?

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Yeah, we had school dinners.

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Well, school dinners round here in those days were terrific

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and I used to really, really enjoy them

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and I used to love the puddings.

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You'd have these things that would be listed on the board at the side,

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Eve's Pudding, Charlotte's Pudding, Queen's Pudding, Anne's Pudding,

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everybody's wretched pudding! But they were lovely.

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-I bet they always tasted good.

-Oh, they were great.

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They always came with wonderful thick custard,

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which was slopped out from this wonderful metallic vat

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with a metal spoon and I used to love it.

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My chat with Alistair has revealed lots I can tap into later,

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when I attempt my two dishes inspired by his past.

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But before I think about cooking for Alistair,

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I want to challenge the notion I have got in my head

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that Worcestershire is purely a heritage county,

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full of old farming traditions.

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I have heard tell of a corner of the vale

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that's more science park than it is market garden...

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The Holt family have been running

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their tomato-growing business for 40 years.

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But their hi-tech approach provides a window

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into what 21st century market gardening is beginning to look like.

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Keeping an eye on production

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is second-generation tomato grower Roly Holt.

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-Roly, good morning. How are you?

-Really well, thanks.

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I'm just sort of gobsmacked, this is not at all what I expected.

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It's almost futuristic or nightclub-ish.

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Take us back to the beginning, though.

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Your father started as a tomato grower or...?

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Well, he started in the late '70s.

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He bought a bit of land, four acres.

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It was a classic market gardening site

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with a bit of glass, bit of arable crops.

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I remember sprouts in the winter months.

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So we had a bit of everything.

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And it wasn't until the mid to late '80s

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we started to focus on tomatoes.

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15 years ago,

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the Holts stopped using traditional methods

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and, instead, embraced cutting-edge science

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to see how it could improve tomato growing.

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Today, their flagship greenhouse runs on the latest technology

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with temperature, light, carbon dioxide levels

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and air circulation all regulated by computer.

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The most recent innovation has been the installation

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of 3,500 LED lighting fixtures.

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These red and blue lights simulate daylight around the clock

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deep within the plant.

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You're pioneers in this kind of experimentation, are you not?

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Yeah, there's three real commercial sites in the UK,

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which are trying it out

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and it's been developed over the last five years

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from a lot of trial work.

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And the objective is to have fresh British tomatoes

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-available to the general public all year round?

-That's the aim.

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Looking closely, I've noticed these plants don't even touch the ground.

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I'll suspend my disbelief until I find out more.

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Well, most of the plants will be 15-meters long

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by the end of the season.

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They're each producing or growing a vine a week.

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A vine a week? And that is one vine there?

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-So this is 24 tomatoes?

-24 tomatoes, yeah.

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And you can trace the plant back to where it started on the gutter

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and the roots are growing within this plastic gully.

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See the water flowing within the gully?

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And that is all the root growth between each plant.

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This is a pure hydroponic growing system.

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The nutrients enter at one end of the gutter

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and the water flows by gravity to a drain in the middle of the row.

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So there's this system at each end of the row?

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Each end of the row, yes.

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It's like a V and then it gets recycled round and round

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so the plant takes up what nutrients it wants.

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But to appreciate the full scale of the operation,

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I need to get a bird's eye view up top in the canopy.

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-OK, we're going up.

-Oh, crikey! None of this!

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Wow, just look at that!

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It's a whole new world, is that, isn't it?

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It looks like a jungle, an exotic jungle.

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-Which way would you like to go?

-Er, this way.

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So you can see all the new growth at the top here.

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And these yellow flowers are the buds?

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Those are actually where the tomatoes will grow?

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That's right. So the bees will pollinate the flowers

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and within a few days you'll start to see

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-a little tomato like this...

-Oh, right.

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And then in about eight weeks' time, that will be ready for harvesting.

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If we didn't lower the crop, it would just keep growing and growing

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and it would get too high,

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so we drop the crop a foot a week.

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So we undo the twine, lower it down and move it.

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So these plants are lowered and moved to the left once a week.

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As the plants drop lower,

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the new growth will continue growing next week.

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So that, in a number of weeks, it goes from there, to there,

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to there and down to the right height?

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In five weeks' time, this plant will be five meters up there.

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The great thing about this is

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we are always harvesting at the same height,

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so you don't have to go up trolleys just to harvest.

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With our feet back on the ground, we can see the end result.

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After all, that's what all this is about.

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-We need to aim for an orange, even colour at the end of the vine.

-OK.

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So that one's fine.

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So do you just hold it and...?

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Yeah, hold it and then cut close to the stem.

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-Cut close to the stem.

-That's it.

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And place it neatly in the crate. That's right.

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You know, I never looked at tomatoes with such an eye

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to see how beautiful they are.

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But they're a majestic colour.

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Look at that one there. It's a lovely shape.

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It's just the transition, isn't it, from bottom to top?

0:15:240:15:26

While those technological tomatoes point a way to the future,

0:15:260:15:30

it's time now to return to the past,

0:15:300:15:33

on our trip down memory lane.

0:15:330:15:35

Back on the outskirts of Evesham, our next port of call is school.

0:15:380:15:42

Alistair used to attend this primary school

0:15:440:15:47

and it holds very special memories for him.

0:15:470:15:51

Oh, these railings.

0:15:510:15:53

Because this is where Mum and Dad both worked as teachers.

0:15:530:15:56

So was school a happy time of life

0:16:000:16:01

and was it difficult having your mum and your dad around?

0:16:010:16:04

Generally, it was a very happy time, yeah, I liked school.

0:16:040:16:06

I liked learning.

0:16:060:16:08

But being here, the two years I was here, wasn't the best,

0:16:080:16:10

partly because of that reason.

0:16:100:16:12

Having my dad here, a lot of the kids would go,

0:16:120:16:14

"Oh, it's your dad, your dad" and all that sort of thing.

0:16:140:16:16

When was the last time you went in there?

0:16:160:16:18

I should think about 1971 or something like that.

0:16:180:16:21

It will be interesting to see how you come out of there,

0:16:220:16:25

a better or a worse man.

0:16:250:16:27

In the meantime, I'm going to cook a nostalgic dish, just for you.

0:16:270:16:30

-Great.

-So you go and enjoy.

-Thank you, Brian.

0:16:300:16:33

Cheers, Alistair.

0:16:330:16:34

We've set up a kitchen in the school hall

0:16:340:16:36

and I'm going to make something that I hope

0:16:360:16:38

will bring Alistair's fond food memories flooding back.

0:16:380:16:42

Goodness me, here we are.

0:16:470:16:49

Well, of course, it all looks smaller,

0:16:500:16:52

the old cliche,

0:16:520:16:53

and brighter.

0:16:530:16:55

There was wooden floors down here, beautiful parquet wooden floors,

0:16:550:16:58

which have been covered with a carpet and there was no brightness.

0:16:580:17:02

It was just very simple.

0:17:020:17:03

Very simple.

0:17:040:17:06

My classroom was through there, but that door has been filled in.

0:17:060:17:09

But I think there were two doors, so if we go through there...

0:17:090:17:12

..maybe we'll see it.

0:17:130:17:15

Used to be a lovely thing here with the house points on a wooden board.

0:17:170:17:20

Whooooah...!

0:17:210:17:23

Oh, my goodness!

0:17:260:17:27

Oh, it smells the same.

0:17:270:17:29

Now, my mother taught in here

0:17:290:17:30

and I used to come and see her when I'd left,

0:17:300:17:33

when I was about nine or ten.

0:17:330:17:34

And there is the piano in the corner,

0:17:340:17:37

which probably has my mother's imprints on every key.

0:17:370:17:41

The piano looks a little bit hidden away.

0:17:430:17:45

I should imagine my mother played this most days.

0:17:490:17:51

HE PLAYS A SCALE

0:17:540:17:57

Don't know what that scale was down.

0:18:040:18:06

It's strange, because you sort of make this journey in your head.

0:18:090:18:12

I think there are a number of dreams one has,

0:18:120:18:14

or images you have over the years,

0:18:140:18:16

and you do come back in your mind's eye.

0:18:160:18:19

But this is the first time I've been back and...

0:18:190:18:22

Yeah, very, very strange feeling being back in here.

0:18:230:18:26

But it's nice. It was nice. There were some nice memories.

0:18:260:18:29

The hall is where countless school dinners

0:18:290:18:31

have been served up over the decades.

0:18:310:18:33

For my nostalgia dish,

0:18:330:18:35

I have decided to aim straight for Alistair's sweet tooth

0:18:350:18:39

and do my take on one of his favourite childhood puddings.

0:18:390:18:43

It's fairly obvious what I'm going to cook,

0:18:430:18:45

because those plums were just delicious

0:18:450:18:48

and we know that Alistair loves plums

0:18:480:18:50

and his mother used to make him a plum crumble.

0:18:500:18:53

I'm going to do the same thing.

0:18:530:18:54

So I'm going to make it a little bit different.

0:18:540:18:56

I'm going to start by putting a bit of red wine in here.

0:18:560:18:59

Make sure it's a hot pan,

0:19:010:19:03

because it'll help to reduce it down fairly quickly

0:19:030:19:06

and I've got some sugar in there.

0:19:060:19:08

Honey.

0:19:080:19:10

Just give that a stir.

0:19:120:19:14

And this is just to soften the plums a little bit before we start, so...

0:19:140:19:19

And that little bit extra, I've got some nutmeg.

0:19:220:19:25

So in that goes in there.

0:19:260:19:28

There we go.

0:19:280:19:30

And look at these fabulous plums.

0:19:300:19:32

Now, I would normally have used a knife

0:19:320:19:34

to cut these in half and stone them,

0:19:340:19:35

but having listened to Mick this morning,

0:19:350:19:37

I'm not going to do that.

0:19:370:19:39

I'm going to split them in half, take out the stone.

0:19:390:19:43

Goes on there.

0:19:440:19:46

Same with this.

0:19:470:19:49

Take it out.

0:19:500:19:52

I'm going to keep some of the red wine reduction,

0:19:530:19:55

which I'll need later on.

0:19:550:19:58

Then I'm adding the plums and letting them cook

0:19:580:20:00

for two to three minutes.

0:20:000:20:02

Here, I seem to recall, was...

0:20:040:20:07

This was the room my father taught in when I was here.

0:20:090:20:12

They're lovely big rooms, aren't they?

0:20:130:20:16

Proper Victorian, this is, proper Victorian.

0:20:160:20:18

So I never really came in this room.

0:20:180:20:19

We were always in that room, for two years,

0:20:190:20:21

the one down the corridor.

0:20:210:20:23

And there was a lovely playground, as you can see,

0:20:230:20:25

which, again, looks so much brighter.

0:20:250:20:27

It's strange, actually, feeling my father around,

0:20:290:20:31

because he died 12 years ago.

0:20:310:20:33

I thought I knew his world inside out,

0:20:360:20:39

but suddenly being in this room, I thought, "Whoof...!"

0:20:390:20:41

This is really nice to see where he spent a lot of time.

0:20:410:20:45

Oh, goodness me...

0:21:000:21:01

Goodness me.

0:21:030:21:04

This room was a source of great pleasure,

0:21:040:21:07

because this is where we ate our school dinners

0:21:070:21:09

and it's also where we did what we used to call music and movement.

0:21:090:21:12

I don't know if they still call it music and movement.

0:21:120:21:14

They probably call it elementary fitness or something.

0:21:140:21:17

Oh, and the vaulting horse! The vaulting horse is still there.

0:21:180:21:21

Ah...!

0:21:250:21:27

I used to love these things.

0:21:270:21:29

We used to vault over those, or roll, do forward rolls down them.

0:21:290:21:32

The other thing which is - I could get quite moved in a minute -

0:21:360:21:39

that was in here, on the floor are the markings of a badminton court

0:21:390:21:43

and my father painted these markings with his own hands.

0:21:430:21:47

Everywhere he went, he taught at about four schools in the area

0:21:500:21:53

and he was mad keen on badminton

0:21:530:21:55

and he would just make sure there was a badminton court

0:21:550:21:58

and after school on Fridays

0:21:580:21:59

the teachers would play badminton

0:21:590:22:00

and you can still see these marks down here now.

0:22:000:22:03

My father got me playing every sort of racket sport

0:22:060:22:08

from the age of about five onwards, really.

0:22:080:22:10

Badminton, and then squash I was playing when I was seven or eight

0:22:100:22:14

and tennis.

0:22:140:22:16

We used to play football

0:22:170:22:18

in the back garden of my house, as well, a lot together.

0:22:180:22:20

We were great pals and, you know...

0:22:270:22:29

Yeah.

0:22:290:22:30

I really cherish everything he gave me sporting-wise to this day.

0:22:330:22:37

Yeah, great skills to have.

0:22:460:22:47

Great skills to have.

0:22:470:22:49

With the plums simmering away, I'm going to crack on with the crumble.

0:22:540:22:58

And we need some flour.

0:22:580:22:59

And I've got some cold butter.

0:23:010:23:04

Not too cold, but I don't want it too warm,

0:23:040:23:06

otherwise it makes pastry, not crumble.

0:23:060:23:09

And we rub that together until we get a sand-like texture.

0:23:090:23:14

So that's just about ready.

0:23:170:23:18

You can see how it's starting to look quite sandy.

0:23:180:23:21

I'm aiming for a crunchy topping - sugar, pumpkin seeds, and oats.

0:23:210:23:26

Pinhead oats, which I love.

0:23:260:23:28

Those succulent plums are more than ready

0:23:300:23:32

for a layer of the textured crumble mix.

0:23:320:23:35

Look at that.

0:23:360:23:38

You could almost eat it as it is.

0:23:380:23:41

Pop in the oven, heated to 180 degrees,

0:23:410:23:44

and cook for 30 minutes.

0:23:440:23:46

Everything pleasurable happened in this hall.

0:23:490:23:51

Same doors, I notice, in and out.

0:23:510:23:53

We also did a nativity play in here

0:23:530:23:55

and I think that was the first time I ever either acted in anything

0:23:550:23:59

or certainly had the performer's moment of ego,

0:23:590:24:03

where I was watching somebody in it thinking,

0:24:030:24:05

"You know, I could have done that part better."

0:24:050:24:07

Everything happened in this little hall, I think, that I liked.

0:24:090:24:13

Sport, drama, food.

0:24:130:24:16

And there's a piano.

0:24:170:24:19

No snooker table, otherwise I could live in here quite happily,

0:24:190:24:21

even now, with those things.

0:24:210:24:23

For Alistair's nostalgic crumble,

0:24:250:24:28

I've softened locally-sourced plums in sugar and red wine.

0:24:280:24:31

I've added pumpkin seeds, oats and demerara sugar

0:24:310:24:35

to a crumbled butter and flour mix and baked for half an hour.

0:24:350:24:39

But you can't have crumble without custard

0:24:410:24:43

and I'm planning for one that's a bit special.

0:24:430:24:46

I have already started by warming double cream and milk on the hob.

0:24:460:24:50

What do you have for me?

0:24:500:24:51

Well, you probably guessed what I'm cooking for you.

0:24:530:24:56

I think it might involve plums.

0:24:560:24:58

You're such an astute fellow, you are!

0:24:580:25:00

Marvellous. You're absolutely right.

0:25:000:25:01

We're going to do a classic plum crumble.

0:25:010:25:04

I read somewhere you like, or you liked, pink custard.

0:25:040:25:10

I liked it when I was here.

0:25:100:25:12

In goes the magical taste of vanilla.

0:25:130:25:16

So you've got bags of flavour.

0:25:170:25:19

And a clutch of egg yolks with caster sugar.

0:25:190:25:22

Then the trick is you put hot onto cold.

0:25:220:25:27

-Right.

-If you put cold onto hot,

0:25:270:25:30

you get long strings of sweet scramble egg,

0:25:300:25:33

because it just cooks as soon as it goes in there.

0:25:330:25:35

So, this way, it just dissipates the heat.

0:25:350:25:39

Returning it to the heat, let's see if we can add some colour.

0:25:420:25:46

-I'm going to put this in here because I'm desperate to have...

-What's that?

0:25:480:25:51

-This is some of the red wine that...

-Is this going to make it pink?

0:25:510:25:54

Hopefully so. I've never made pink custard before

0:25:540:25:56

and I just thought I'd have a go.

0:25:560:25:57

-I think it was all E numbers.

-Oh, no, don't say that!

0:25:570:26:00

No. It wasn't as good as this.

0:26:000:26:02

-Don't worry.

-Well, in fact...

0:26:020:26:04

Right, I'm ready. I'm going to take that off.

0:26:040:26:06

Pouring the custard through a sieve

0:26:080:26:10

will make absolutely sure it's nice and smooth.

0:26:100:26:12

I think that will grow in pinkness.

0:26:140:26:16

The pink isn't a deal breaker. It smells great.

0:26:170:26:20

It might not be a deal breaker for you,

0:26:200:26:22

but for me, it certainly is!

0:26:220:26:24

30 minutes are up and the crumble is bubbling and golden.

0:26:240:26:28

So how was the visit around the school? That's what I need to know.

0:26:300:26:32

Oh, it's been fascinating, yeah.

0:26:320:26:34

This room, particularly,

0:26:340:26:36

I can remember spending a lot of happy time in here.

0:26:360:26:38

And did you ever have crumble in those days?

0:26:380:26:40

Crumble, yes, but I don't think it's going to taste like this one.

0:26:400:26:43

So there it is, my nostalgic dish for Alistair McGowan.

0:26:450:26:49

I do have high hopes for this plum crumble

0:26:500:26:53

and my take on an old school favourite - pink custard.

0:26:530:26:57

Oooh...!

0:27:030:27:04

Oh, that's delicious. It's lovely with the pumpkin seeds, as well.

0:27:050:27:08

It just adds that crunch and a little gentle flavour.

0:27:080:27:11

Mm...

0:27:130:27:14

Mm!

0:27:140:27:16

-Those are good plums.

-They're really good.

0:27:160:27:18

Good old British pudding.

0:27:180:27:20

Mmm, you can't beat a crumble.

0:27:200:27:22

Made where it should be made,

0:27:220:27:24

-right here in the middle of where they're grown.

-Mm.

0:27:240:27:26

It's often said that Worcestershire is one of the most fertile regions

0:27:330:27:36

of the British Isles.

0:27:360:27:38

The climate and soil found in the Vale of Evesham

0:27:380:27:41

provide perfect conditions

0:27:410:27:43

for growing the county's most celebrated vegetable.

0:27:430:27:45

-NEWSREEL:

-The vegetable is grown in about three feet of sandy soil

0:27:450:27:49

and a special knife is used to cut the roots clean.

0:27:490:27:52

Of course, the great thing about asparagus is to eat it fresh.

0:27:540:27:57

Asparagus has been cultivated in the vale for centuries,

0:27:570:28:01

having been brought over by the Romans.

0:28:010:28:04

Traditionally, farmers would have grown their crop

0:28:040:28:07

in four- or five-acre plots.

0:28:070:28:09

Evesham's commercial asparagus production

0:28:110:28:13

blossomed in the 1850s, with the arrival of the railways.

0:28:130:28:16

-NEWSREEL:

-The favourite vegetable of the ancient Romans

0:28:170:28:20

will soon be on your table and mine.

0:28:200:28:21

And, for me, it can't be too soon.

0:28:210:28:24

The harvest season is short, running between April and June.

0:28:240:28:28

It's the busiest time of year for Evesham's asparagus growers.

0:28:280:28:31

It's such a big deal, there's even an annual festival

0:28:320:28:35

in honour of this venerable vegetable.

0:28:350:28:38

This is Asparafest.

0:28:420:28:44

The festival is all about enjoying asparagus.

0:28:440:28:47

So it's a music festival.

0:28:470:28:49

It's a food festival.

0:28:500:28:53

It's a family festival.

0:28:540:28:56

It's all those things, all combined,

0:28:560:28:58

all with asparagus very much at the fore.

0:28:580:29:00

But we're really about promoting asparagus in all its ways,

0:29:060:29:08

in terms of what a fantastic product it is

0:29:080:29:10

and particularly grown on the Vale of Evesham soil.

0:29:100:29:13

The festival has been going for three years

0:29:140:29:16

and draws in asparagus lovers from across the land.

0:29:160:29:20

It's a great excuse for locals to set out their stalls

0:29:200:29:23

and get creative with this surprisingly versatile veggie.

0:29:230:29:27

Everybody is always taken aback when they see asparagus ice cream.

0:29:280:29:31

They all want to have a try.

0:29:310:29:33

So, yeah, I think it's a... It's something different.

0:29:330:29:36

And I created my asparagus soaps.

0:29:390:29:41

So all handmade, but it doesn't actually smell of asparagus, though.

0:29:410:29:44

Smells of apple.

0:29:440:29:46

So if you're wondering about the festival,

0:29:510:29:53

you might get accosted by Gus The Asparagus Man,

0:29:530:29:56

who's a 6'6" spear of asparagus.

0:29:560:29:59

Gosh, lots of people today.

0:29:590:30:01

And we've got an Asparamansa, who will tell your fortune

0:30:040:30:07

by throwing asparagus and reading the asparagus,

0:30:070:30:09

much as you might read tea leaves in the bottom of a cup.

0:30:090:30:12

You've got a meeting of some sort going on here,

0:30:120:30:15

either a reunion or a party or a wedding.

0:30:150:30:19

It's certainly a gathering of friends and families.

0:30:190:30:23

She said that I was going to be having a party soon

0:30:230:30:26

or some sort of wedding,

0:30:260:30:28

which is obviously true, because we're here for a hen party.

0:30:280:30:30

That's amazing, that is! The power of asparagus!

0:30:300:30:33

Who knew?!

0:30:330:30:34

As well as more light-hearted fun,

0:30:340:30:37

there are demonstrations

0:30:370:30:39

of time-honoured asparagus-related country skills.

0:30:390:30:42

I'm tying asparagus what they call the old-fashioned way.

0:30:420:30:45

You put your raffia that you are going to tie with,

0:30:450:30:48

you then load the asparagus in.

0:30:480:30:51

Then shut that, to hold it, while I actually tie it up,

0:30:540:30:59

because I've put the raffia in ready.

0:30:590:31:01

Tie it round once, twice.

0:31:010:31:04

Tie it.

0:31:040:31:05

And then unrelease it, cut off the bits...

0:31:070:31:10

..and you have a round of grass.

0:31:120:31:15

Evesham's love of asparagus is infectious,

0:31:170:31:19

so it has to play a starring role as an ingredient in the final meal

0:31:190:31:24

that I'm going to cook today...

0:31:240:31:26

My tribute dish to Alistair McGowan.

0:31:260:31:28

Back in Evesham, we've arrived at Alistair's childhood home.

0:31:330:31:37

So here we are, Brian. This is the family home.

0:31:380:31:41

This is where we moved when I was ten

0:31:410:31:43

and I had my formative years here in this house

0:31:430:31:46

and my mother is still here to this day.

0:31:460:31:49

She's been here for 40 years.

0:31:490:31:50

And you come to visit her quite regularly, I assume?

0:31:500:31:53

I come back, you know, every six weeks or so.

0:31:530:31:55

So I know it well.

0:31:550:31:57

I've cleaned most bits of this house for her.

0:31:570:31:58

Every window, with newspaper.

0:31:580:32:00

Different one every time.

0:32:000:32:01

It's like the Forth Bridge, every time I come back, bit more cleaning.

0:32:010:32:04

What a wonderful son you are.

0:32:040:32:06

Why don't you just go and have another look around

0:32:060:32:08

and tell us all about the little in-secrets

0:32:080:32:10

of those rooms and your life in there?

0:32:100:32:13

-And I shall cook another dish for you.

-That's a good deal.

0:32:130:32:16

While Alistair has a good look around the old family home,

0:32:190:32:22

we've set up my kitchen in the back garden,

0:32:220:32:25

ready to use everything I have learnt

0:32:250:32:27

from my time spent with Alistair, to create my tribute dish to him.

0:32:270:32:31

So here we are. This is my childhood home.

0:32:360:32:38

This is the kitchen, where my mum's magic took place,

0:32:380:32:41

where the Egg Riviera was made.

0:32:410:32:42

And this, if I'm not much mistaken, is my sister Kate.

0:32:420:32:45

-Hi.

-Hello, Katie.

0:32:450:32:47

So, I've been asked all day by Brian

0:32:470:32:48

what my memories of childhood food are.

0:32:480:32:50

What are your memories of eating in this kitchen?

0:32:500:32:52

In this kitchen, roast dinners.

0:32:520:32:56

Lovely roast dinners.

0:32:560:32:57

And some fairly limp green vegetables on a Sunday.

0:32:570:33:00

-Allegedly.

-Yes.

0:33:010:33:02

-I wouldn't comment on that.

-You like them like that.

0:33:020:33:05

Yes. I've learnt to like them like that. Yes, yes.

0:33:050:33:07

So have you got lots of things, like I have,

0:33:070:33:09

that you still enjoy eating today,

0:33:090:33:10

because you associate them with happy times in this house?

0:33:100:33:14

Yes. Definitely puddings, crumbles, custard, ice cream.

0:33:140:33:19

I still have to have ice cream with custard because of being here,

0:33:190:33:23

because there was, if you remember, always ice cream.

0:33:230:33:25

That's right, there was always ice cream.

0:33:250:33:27

Now Alistair's mum used to cook a dish for him

0:33:310:33:34

that she called Eggs Riviera, so I am going to try and...

0:33:340:33:37

Well, I'm going to try and do that dish.

0:33:370:33:39

But I'm also going to do some asparagus with it,

0:33:390:33:41

because we know that he didn't like asparagus once upon a time,

0:33:410:33:44

so I've got a way to make him like asparagus.

0:33:440:33:46

And his mum used to cook roast chicken.

0:33:460:33:48

I'm going to need to do some chicken, as well.

0:33:480:33:50

And crispy pancakes...

0:33:500:33:52

I've got normal pancakes.

0:33:520:33:53

This is a dish of revelation.

0:33:530:33:55

So this is where we would eat, always around here.

0:34:020:34:04

That's where Mum would entertain us.

0:34:040:34:06

She always sat there. I always sat there.

0:34:060:34:08

And it's strange, actually, because Mum and my sister

0:34:080:34:10

were really the ones who were the entertainers,

0:34:100:34:13

they are the ones who would speak happily.

0:34:130:34:15

And I went into this business,

0:34:150:34:17

but always liked to hide behind a character.

0:34:170:34:20

And here we are on the wall,

0:34:200:34:22

this lovely display that Mum put together

0:34:220:34:24

of lots of different Polaroids of the people

0:34:240:34:26

that I did in my show The Big Impression years ago.

0:34:260:34:28

And you can see everybody up there from Mick McCarthy.

0:34:280:34:31

-IMITATES McCARTHY:

-Who was manager of the Republic of Ireland at the time.

0:34:310:34:34

Going back a little way now.

0:34:340:34:35

Very successful he was, too, at the World Cup, 2002.

0:34:350:34:38

And David Seaman here in the bottom

0:34:380:34:40

and, you know, David would say...

0:34:400:34:41

-IMITATES SEAMAN:

-England goalie for about, I don't know, ten years, probably.

0:34:410:34:45

LAUGHS LIKE SEAMAN

0:34:450:34:46

He was always great fun to do, you know,

0:34:460:34:48

because he just had that big laugh and...

0:34:480:34:50

LAUGHS

0:34:500:34:51

As soon as he did that, people were laughing at you,

0:34:510:34:53

because they were laughing at him laughing,

0:34:530:34:55

so there was a lot of laughter, which was great.

0:34:550:34:57

And then up here, one of my favourites to do...

0:34:570:35:00

-IMITATES NICOLAS CAGE:

-..was Nicolas Cage

0:35:000:35:02

and Nicolas Cage was kind of, you know, he still is a major film star,

0:35:020:35:06

but he was one of the few American film stars who I did,

0:35:060:35:08

because I started watching his movies.

0:35:080:35:10

Ronnie did a brilliant impression of Willie Carson

0:35:100:35:12

and I played Clare Balding and it was the two of them

0:35:120:35:15

presenting the racing, which they used to do.

0:35:150:35:17

We did loads of characters. we had a ball doing that show.

0:35:170:35:19

It was great fun.

0:35:190:35:21

It was just the two of us, so there was a huge amount of pressure

0:35:210:35:24

to learn all these characters and write the material,

0:35:240:35:26

but we rose to it and it was...

0:35:260:35:28

Yeah, it was just a fantastic time.

0:35:280:35:30

I'm cracking on with the tribute dish,

0:35:320:35:34

my take on Alistair's mum's speciality, Eggs Riviera.

0:35:340:35:39

To start off, I'm frying some lovely back bacon with cooked potatoes,

0:35:390:35:43

salt and pepper.

0:35:430:35:44

Smells delicious.

0:35:440:35:46

To give it all a bit of texture,

0:35:460:35:48

the potatoes are getting a going over with the masher.

0:35:480:35:51

Then I'm adding a couple of boiled eggs.

0:35:510:35:54

And it's a value-for-money dish, is this.

0:35:540:35:57

It's like an old-fashioned fry-up.

0:35:570:35:59

Take that off, let's put that over here.

0:35:590:36:01

Let's take these lovely pancakes...

0:36:010:36:03

Oh, look, a bit of chicken.

0:36:040:36:07

She used to do a lovely roast chicken dinner,

0:36:070:36:09

so I'm going to put some chicken in there, as well.

0:36:090:36:12

Fab.

0:36:140:36:15

Now, I think the trick here is not to put too much in to each pancake,

0:36:170:36:21

don't get greedy.

0:36:210:36:23

But make sure you've got a bit of everything in there.

0:36:230:36:25

And then roll them over...

0:36:310:36:32

..like that. So.

0:36:340:36:35

So behind me you can see the real talent in the family,

0:36:430:36:46

which was my sister's art.

0:36:460:36:48

She drew this picture of me when I was about 14.

0:36:480:36:51

She was 17.

0:36:510:36:52

But here is my side of the wall and this was...

0:36:520:36:57

Once I stopped doing the TV show, I went in to do a lot of theatre stuff

0:36:570:37:00

and worked at Chichester Theatre

0:37:000:37:02

and then, finally, about a year after that,

0:37:020:37:05

worked at the Royal Shakespeare Theatre.

0:37:050:37:07

And it was very emotional because, all through her life, I think,

0:37:070:37:12

from the 1950s onwards,

0:37:120:37:13

my mum had been going to see absolutely everything at Stratford

0:37:130:37:16

and we had always had a dream when I was sort of 17 or 18,

0:37:160:37:18

when I was that person, of wanting to appear on the stage at Stratford.

0:37:180:37:23

And it was some 20 years, really, after arriving at drama school,

0:37:230:37:28

finally, I was on stage there.

0:37:280:37:31

And I can remember the first night.

0:37:310:37:34

It was a musical version of Merry Wives, The Musical it was called

0:37:340:37:37

and I had a big number in the first half, big solo number.

0:37:370:37:40

And I stood there and completely dried

0:37:400:37:43

because I was just so thrilled to be on this stage.

0:37:430:37:46

And I thought, "Wow, I'm finally here."

0:37:460:37:48

And Mum was watching and it just meant everything to me

0:37:480:37:51

and I knew it meant everything to her to be there

0:37:510:37:53

and I just couldn't think what to sing.

0:37:530:37:55

And I realised a big lesson there and then,

0:37:550:37:58

which is that, in a musical... It was the first musical I'd done.

0:37:580:38:01

If you forget your words in a play,

0:38:010:38:02

either other people or you, yourself, will get you out of it.

0:38:020:38:05

But in a musical, the band carries on.

0:38:050:38:08

So if you forget, the band doesn't wait for you.

0:38:080:38:11

They all carry on.

0:38:110:38:13

But it all came good.

0:38:130:38:14

For a full-bodied cheese sauce, I'm mixing butter, flour and milk.

0:38:160:38:20

And it's good exercise, is this.

0:38:220:38:24

And in go a pair of egg yolks.

0:38:260:38:28

Stir it in. It will change the colour and it will make it so much richer.

0:38:300:38:33

Use those chicken juices!

0:38:330:38:35

This will really make it...

0:38:350:38:37

..liven up the flavours.

0:38:380:38:39

Then I'm ready to arrange the pancakes in the dish.

0:38:410:38:43

This strong mature Cheddar will give the sauce some extra kick.

0:38:470:38:51

And, finally, the bedroom.

0:38:550:38:57

My bedroom, when I was a kid.

0:38:570:38:59

My sister moved in here a few years ago

0:38:590:39:01

when she lived back at home for a while,

0:39:010:39:02

so it's a bit more feminine than I had it,

0:39:020:39:04

when it was covered in Leeds United pictures,

0:39:040:39:06

pictures of Peter Lorimer, Terry Yorath, people who were my heroes.

0:39:060:39:09

But also in this room, most importantly, probably, I once...

0:39:090:39:13

A friend and I were messing around

0:39:130:39:15

recording ourselves on an old Hitachi tape recorder

0:39:150:39:17

and I played it back to my sister and she said,

0:39:170:39:19

"Oh, you sound like John Peel on it."

0:39:190:39:21

And John Peel at the time was...

0:39:210:39:22

-IMITATES PEEL:

-..one of the most famous DJs in the country,

0:39:220:39:25

working on Radio 1 from ten o'clock every night

0:39:250:39:27

and discovering bands left, right and centre.

0:39:270:39:30

And it just made me think, "Well, if I can sound like him without actually trying,

0:39:300:39:33

"maybe I should try a little bit harder?"

0:39:330:39:35

And it was all thanks to Kate saying that, you know,

0:39:350:39:38

accidently I'd sounded like John Peel,

0:39:380:39:39

because my voice had just broken.

0:39:390:39:41

And then I started trying out people like Ted Lowe...

0:39:410:39:43

-IMITATES LOWE:

-..the snooker commentator when we were playing snooker down the road

0:39:430:39:47

and everybody would do that, "Oh, dear, and that's a mistake."

0:39:470:39:50

And suddenly I had two impressions

0:39:500:39:51

and I suppose it developed from there.

0:39:510:39:53

For Alistair's tribute dish, I've prepared crushed potato,

0:39:550:39:59

bacon and egg and rolled the mix into pancakes.

0:39:590:40:02

To go with them, I've rustled up a tasty cheese sauce,

0:40:030:40:07

which now just needs that final ingredient.

0:40:070:40:10

I've got some chives. So I'm going to put the chives...

0:40:100:40:12

Oooh, controversial.

0:40:120:40:14

..into the cheese sauce,

0:40:140:40:15

just to give it a bit of colour.

0:40:150:40:17

And then, what we are going to very carefully do

0:40:170:40:21

is spoon the sauce over the top.

0:40:210:40:25

Right.

0:40:250:40:26

It's the combination, really, of those two things,

0:40:270:40:30

the crispy pancakes and the...

0:40:300:40:31

Exactly! And rather than try and do something exactly as it was,

0:40:310:40:35

we'll do a tribute to the little things.

0:40:350:40:37

And, of course, we've got chicken in these pancakes, as well.

0:40:370:40:40

Because your mum used to do roast chicken lunches, as well.

0:40:400:40:42

I'm after complex cheesy flavours,

0:40:420:40:44

so I'm adding a light sprinkling of Parmesan.

0:40:440:40:47

Now that's done and it's all in the oven,

0:40:470:40:49

it's time to bring in some fresh local asparagus.

0:40:490:40:52

We've got the sacred...

0:40:520:40:54

-Evesham's own.

-Evesham asparagus, yes.

0:40:540:40:56

-Asparagrass, as some would have it.

-That's right, yes.

0:40:560:40:59

But what we've done is we've just blanched it so it's not overcooked.

0:40:590:41:02

Right.

0:41:020:41:04

Slapping the asparagus on a griddle pan for a couple of minutes

0:41:040:41:06

will really concentrate its distinctive flavours.

0:41:060:41:10

The pancakes are piping hot and the asparagus gets pride of place,

0:41:100:41:14

crowning the dish in all its glory.

0:41:140:41:17

That is my version of Eggs Riviera, but I call it Pancakes Riviera.

0:41:170:41:21

Pancakes Riviera? I can't wait.

0:41:210:41:23

It's everything I ate when I was 14 in one dish.

0:41:230:41:25

I've taken inspiration from Alistair's memories

0:41:260:41:29

and created a dish that combines his mum's original Egg Riviera recipe

0:41:290:41:33

with pancakes, roast chicken and, of course, asparagus.

0:41:330:41:37

It's only right and proper we invite Mum

0:41:370:41:41

to give her verdict on my version of these McGowan family favourites.

0:41:410:41:45

You were the inspiration of Eggs Riviera, is that right?

0:41:450:41:48

-That's true, yes.

-OK, right.

0:41:480:41:49

I won't ask for the recipe, because I know you won't give me it.

0:41:490:41:52

I can't remember it, to be honest.

0:41:520:41:55

Here you are. Grab a little mouthful.

0:41:550:41:57

Mm!

0:42:000:42:02

It tastes absolutely beautiful.

0:42:040:42:06

You've got to try it with Worcester sauce, anyway, Alistair.

0:42:060:42:09

Put a dribble on the end there.

0:42:090:42:10

And see if that adds or not.

0:42:100:42:12

Mm. Mm! Mm-mm-mm...!

0:42:150:42:18

That's terrific.

0:42:180:42:19

You just want to devour the whole lot, you see?

0:42:190:42:22

I think you've got the seal of approval here.

0:42:220:42:24

Is it good?

0:42:240:42:26

Absolutely super.

0:42:260:42:27

Yeah, the boiled egg with the potato is really nice,

0:42:270:42:30

the bacon is coming through.

0:42:300:42:31

We didn't have the chives. But the chives are subtle.

0:42:310:42:33

They work nicely.

0:42:330:42:34

-IMITATES PAUL HOLLYWOOD:

-I was worried that it wasn't always going to gel together,

0:42:340:42:38

but you've got a nice crispy pancake there, which is great.

0:42:380:42:41

The consistency's good and, you know, and I think, yeah,

0:42:410:42:43

you've done a very, very good job.

0:42:430:42:45

I feel really blessed

0:42:450:42:47

that Paul Hollywood's given me so many accolades.

0:42:470:42:49

I just hope you've enjoyed your day today, in your own home,

0:42:490:42:53

at the school, at the orchard.

0:42:530:42:56

It was a real step back in time.

0:42:560:42:58

It's been terrific. A real privilege to see the school again

0:42:580:43:01

and the orchards

0:43:010:43:02

and, yeah, if I'm short of a job next summer, I know where to go...

0:43:020:43:05

-Plum picking.

-Yeah, and if you need a tip,

0:43:050:43:07

get in there quickly before your mother eats it all.

0:43:070:43:10

She's doing well, isn't she, eh?

0:43:100:43:12

It's much better than mine used to be.

0:43:120:43:14

Thank you, dear lady.

0:43:140:43:16

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