Lesley Garrett My Life on a Plate


Lesley Garrett

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For everyone, there's a taste of food,

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or a smell of cooking that zooms you right back to childhood.

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It's just like my mum's cake.

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'I'm Brian Turner.'

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It reminds me of someone I used to know at school.

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'And I'm going to stir up the food memories of some

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'much-loved celebrities.'

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Oh, look at that.

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'Going back to their early years before they were famous.'

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Oh, my gosh.

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'With recollections of Sunday roasts and school dinners.'

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-It's time for something to eat.

-Brilliant.

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'And celebrating the food their home regions are proud of.'

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Which way would you like to go?

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Er, this way.

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'I'll recreate a nostalgic family favourite.'

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Mm, you can't beat a crumble.

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'And a tribute dish that puts my guest's life on a plate!'

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Magic, magic.

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Today, classical singer Lesley Garrett returns to Yorkshire

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where she grew up.

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Oh Brian... I can't believe this, I can't believe I'm here.

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A visit to her family home brings excitement.

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Oh...turn round.

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And moving reminders of a happy childhood.

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I remember sitting on this shed roof.

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I remember everything about this. This is just incredible.

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'Inspiring food is all around us.'

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I never thought I would be doing this again.

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This is just brilliant.

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'Helping me to create nostalgia on a plate.'

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That's brill.

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'And taking Lesley back to her family kitchen.'

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-Get stuck in, lass.

-Thank you.

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We're in Doncaster in South Yorkshire,

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and our journey back in time is kicking off in a brand-new building,

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which means a lot to Lesley, even though this is her first visit!

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Hello, love.

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Hello, sweetheart. How are you?

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Oh, grand, thanks.

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This is the Cast Theatre in Doncaster

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and it's so exciting for me to be here for the first time

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because, in a way, I started the fundraising for this.

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-Oh, right, yeah.

-About, oh, 14-15 years ago.

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I did a concert in Doncaster Racecourse because there was

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nowhere for me to sing - there was nowhere for anyone to perform here.

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We didn't have a...you know, a proper concert hall

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and we all were desperate to get one so we started the fundraising

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and now it's finally built. It's been built about a year,

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and I'm just beyond excited. In fact, I'm coming in soon to perform,

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to make my debut in Doncaster after all these years.

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Lesley's gift for singing was evident early on.

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She graduated from the Royal Academy of Music

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and has built a stellar career, singing not only classical opera,

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but successfully crossing the great divide into popular music.

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In 2002, Lesley was awarded the CBE for services to music.

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She's made 15 solo albums,

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performed with the English and Welsh National Opera companies,

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and has sung all over the world.

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SHE SINGS IN ITALIAN

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She continues to perform live,

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as well as fitting in radio and TV shows.

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But today is about looking back at where Lesley's story began.

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I'll be soaking up ideas

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from her childhood growing up in South Yorkshire,

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and creating two special dishes just for her,

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one full of nostalgia that harks back to the family kitchen,

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the other, a tribute to one of our greatest singers.

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For Lesley, it will be a trip down memory lane,

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and to warm us up, an evocative taste from the past.

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Now, I've heard that before you go on stage to sing,

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-you always have a special drink.

-I do.

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Have a look at that.

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-What's this?

-What do you think it is?

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It's Horlicks! Oh, Yorkshire in a cup.

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Oh, this brings back memories.

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I'll tell you why this is special

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because when I was a teenager,

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I used to go for peripatetic singing lessons

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in Wath, just outside Sheffield,

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and it required three buses

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to get to this place where I went for my singing lessons,

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but they were free, it was through my local council.

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-That's Yorkshire for you.

-Yorkshire.

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And I used to Copelands Caf when I was 16, many years ago,

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and this is what I had, this was like my breakfast - oh, fantastic.

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Well, I hope I don't fall asleep - I used to have this before I went bed.

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Fall asleep in my presence - darling!

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What a silly thing to say! Let's go through into the hall, shall we?

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So, Lesley, you are a real Yorkshire lass.

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You were born in Doncaster.

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Thorpe, just outside Doncaster, in a pit village, yes.

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But Doncaster was the big town on a Saturday

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when we used to come shopping, that was the highlight of the week.

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Were you a big family?

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We were a big family, big extended family,

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and I've got two sisters and I had two fantastic parents.

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Music was very much in the blood on both sides of the family.

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My Granddad Garrett, my dad's dad, had a fantastic dance band

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and then my mum's side were much more classically orientated.

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My granddad was a wonderful pianist and taught all of us

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and we just would have singsongs round the piano all the time,

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you know, we were like the Von Trapps of South Yorkshire,

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it was ridiculous, really,

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and music was the glue that bound us all together.

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My dad had a voice to rival Pavarotti.

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My mum had a really beautiful, clear soprano

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and I was just lucky I got all those genes, basically.

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Tell us about your first memories about food?

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My mum was a very good basic cook.

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There was nothing she couldn't do with mince -

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the varieties of mince we had.

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Dripping featured as well, very large,

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but my dad was quite experimental and he would do all kinds of things

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that nobody else ever heard of

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but the great thing about the food we had

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was that it was almost entirely home grown.

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We used to grow all our own veg,

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we used to gather things from the hedgerows,

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because it was a very rural existence, and we had a pig.

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We always had a pig and we had goats and we had chickens and rabbits...

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-What, all in the garden?

-All in the garden, yeah,

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and we kept loads of animals which we did eat.

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My dad didn't tell us we were having rabbit pie at the time, but...

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And he fished, we had fantastic fish always.

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But I think he's most famous probably for his roadkill pies.

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He couldn't pass a corpse on the road

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without stopping to see if it was still warm,

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and if it were, it were in a pie, you know.

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We had fantastic adventures, we were on the side of a little river.

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We'd be making rafts - it was all Swallows And Amazons existence.

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Yeah, absolutely.

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We found a swan once in the winter that was frozen into the ice,

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it was...

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Oh, it was so exciting, this swan was huge - we were only little -

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and I sent my sister and my little cousin home to get a wheelbarrow

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and me and my other sister hacked this swan, it was ever so dangerous.

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-Was it alive?

-Well, we thought it might be, cos it was warm,

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and we hacked it out of the ice and we got it on this wheelbarrow,

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these four tiny little girls, and we pushed it half a mile home

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and burst into the living room and shouted to my mum and dad,

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"Come, Mum, Dad, come, we think it's still alive,

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"can we get this swan going again?"

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And we put into in front of the fire and I was rubbing

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its big, great big feet and it was dead as anything

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and me parents knew but they joined in, and then after a while

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they said, "Sweeties, we think it's actually died,"

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and, oh, we were so upset.

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The worst was, it was so cold that winter

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we couldn't dig a hole to bury the damn thing

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so it sat on the wall for ages

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just looking at us with its one eye like this.

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So, what was the favourite?

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Was there a meal that you looked forward to eat,

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that's what your mum was doing today?

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Well, I'll tell you what was a speciality -

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spring onion sandwiches.

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We used to have spring onions with white bread and butter

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in a sandwich. Oh, loved that.

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Do you know, I've just recently, in the last two years,

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fallen in love with spring onions. It's a great flavour...

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-With a bit of cheese.

-..nice and tender.

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Yeah, really young ones, yeah.

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I used to look forward to my dad's risottos,

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cos my dad used to cook prawn risotto,

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which was so like from Mars.

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I'm just intrigued by risotto, because the rice

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that you normally use for risotto is specialised rice.

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Oh, he used pudding rice - he didn't use...

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I don't think he used proper rice, I can't remember.

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It was just delicious and I really looked forward to that.

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I just loved the way you talked about fish

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and that reminds me of something I read.

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Didn't you used to go on holiday to your great-uncle or someone?

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Yes, the uncle that was the baker - great-uncle was a baker -

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he had a kind of wooden, little kind of, I suppose Victorian villa

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on the top of the cliff at Skipsea, near Bridlington.

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Skipsea, I know Skipsea.

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And we went every year and my mum had to paint it

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-and then we could have it for free.

-Would she go up a ladder and paint?

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She used to paint the outside of it, she got a lovely tan.

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-But in the meantime...

-On the back of her arms.

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On the back of her hand! Me dad would be on the beach, fishing.

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Just always fishing.

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In fact, if you want me very favourite meal

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from when I was little, it would be dabs, straight out the sea.

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I'd run up the cliff, me dad cut steps into this cliff

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and I would run up with this fish, still flapping, sorry...

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if there's any vegetarians watching, you know, still flapping,

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and me mum would bash it on the head and then it would be quick

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and in the pan and we'd eat it within minutes of it being caught

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and the flavour would blow your head off.

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This is Skipsea, where Lesley spent those childhood holidays,

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a bit of coast where it's still a great place to catch fish.

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Andrew Sanderson is one of only six people

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in Yorkshire's East Riding who are licensed to catch fish

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in a way not seen anywhere else on British shores.

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So, Monday morning, we come and put our nets out

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from the low tide mark into the high tide mark, and then,

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when the tide comes in, usually the fish come in with it, if there's

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going to be any, and then we catch fish right up to the high watermark.

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Shore fishing like this is a dying art.

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This type of fishing has been on the go for hundreds of years.

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Before they used nets, they used to use baskets, you know,

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before there was any nylon nets,

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but actually my great-granddad got lost in a fishing boat,

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not far, just off here, actually, and he was doing more or less

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the same job with nets,

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but I suppose it would have been cotton nets.

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It's a treat to see the old ways surviving against the odds,

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and the rewards are clearly worth the hard graft.

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Today, we've caught 11 sea trout and five sea bass.

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It doesn't get any better than this, this is first class,

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straight out of the sea, straight into ice.

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Then straight to the shop in Bridlington, run by his wife, Karen.

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Here, every day is full of surprises!

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He can catch wild sea bass, he catches skate, codlin,

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dover soles, turbot - all types of species -

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but you can never know what you're going to get

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so you have to come with an open mind to our shop.

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If you've got a recipe, we can guarantee we won't have the fish,

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but come with an open mind to see what we've actually got that day.

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Bridlington's fisher-folk have moved with the times.

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They used to be after cod and haddock.

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These days, they specialise in shellfish and crustaceans,

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and Bridlington has become the UK's most important port

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for lobster landings, closely followed by crab.

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And that is something to shout about.

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Come this way to Bridlington Bay, the seafood festival is on today.

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Hip, hip, hooray!

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Bridlington's Fish Festival is a day for celebrating the catch.

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I daresay you can pick up some of those fruits of the sea

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here in Doncaster's indoor food markets.

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'Listening to Lesley's tales of family food

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'and what her parents used to cook has given me lots of ideas.'

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Excuse me, sir, can I have a couple of bunches of spring onions?

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-Course you can, young man.

-They look good, eh?

-Fantastic.

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'For my first dish, I want to create a taste of nostalgia for Lesley.'

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You're all aglow, that sun's almost out -

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this I think is why they call it sunny Donny, eh?

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It won't last.

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-So, here we are, Doncaster market...

-Yeah.

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-Saturday mornings you used to come with your sisters...

-That's right.

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..and your dad and go buying stuff for your mum to cook.

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Treat of the week, absolutely, yep.

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-How long since you've been here?

-Oh, must be 20 years, actually.

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-Good lord.

-I know, shocking, in't it?

-It's fantastic.

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So here's a great opportunity. What I want you to do, I want you

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to walk in there, just go and browse around, and in the meantime

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I'm going to cook a nostalgic dish just for Lesley Garrett.

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-Oh, can't wait.!

-Go on, off you go, you go and enjoy. Have a nice time.

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We've set up our kitchen in a quiet spot

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of the magnificent Corn Exchange in the middle of the market.

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Now, I was gobsmacked when I heard

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that Lesley's dad cooked her risotto all those years ago.

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The man was a genius, a pioneer,

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we'd never heard of risotto in this part of the world

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and I'm chuffed to bits cos I'm going to cook a risotto for Lesley

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and I've got some lovely mussels from here in the fish market, fantastic.

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Just make sure they're nice and fresh,

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make sure they're not open and just make sure those beards come off,

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they come off quite easily, we don't want that.

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These are all cleaned here.

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So what I'm going to do is open those up straight off.

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Put them into a nice warm pan.

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And I'm going to put some white wine in there...

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carefully measure a glass full.

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That looks careful enough.

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Lid on to get them all opened

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and whilst that lid's on, let me just chop a shallot.

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Okey-dokey, let's put that in there.

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And we'll leave those now just to open up,

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make sure they are all open and make sure you get that lovely mussel meat

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and great flavour, but what we really want out there is the stock,

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so that's white wine and the mussel juice - makes me salivate already.

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Oh, I can't believe this is still here,

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this is where I used to come when I was a little kid.

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-It's marvellous, hello.

-Good morning. You all right?

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-Were you here all those years ago?

-Well, I started 1971.

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Yes, it was '60s and '70s I used to come.

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We done the stall behind this one when you...

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-Oh, behind there.

-You might recognise it...

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Right. I remember that stall. Have you got pictures?

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-Oh, fantastic.

-That's 1976.

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This is just how I remember it with all the carcases hanging up.

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All the rabbits and the hares and the pheasants...

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Oh, that's fabulous, that's just... Is that you?

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-That's me.

-LESLEY LAUGHS

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-Got a little bit more hair there.

-I had more hair and less body.

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More hair, less body, but this is wonderful,

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Apart from the fact there isn't the stone bench.

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-We had a sort of stone thing here.

-That's right, yeah.

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And we could climb up, me and my sisters, and all these little

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things were on the front, you know, little dishes with crab cakes

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and whelks - I didn't like the whelks, they were too chewy.

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So, will you let me try one of your dishes?

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-Just help yourself.

-I would love to try the prawns again

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because these, I remember, these were six pence.

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-Six pence, yeah.

-And we would definitely have salt and pepper.

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And vinegar... ha-ha! Oh, white pepper, absolutely.

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Yes, and black pepper.

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No, it has to be white, and we put loads of vinegar on.

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Oh... I never thought I would be doing this again,

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this is just brilliant.

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Lesley tells me she loves spring onions

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and so do I, so instead of putting

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shallots or onions into the actual risotto,

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I'm going to put some spring onions in there.

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I really think this will bring back great memories for Lesley.

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I'm going to put some of those on a plate here and keep them

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from the back end, so I'm going to use some to cook with the rice

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but some just for garnish on top.

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So nicely shredded, choose the nice ones.

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And let's have a quick look.

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Right, they look pretty good now, so...

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Next thing we do, we're going to strain that.

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It's most important that we keep the liquor,

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that for me is a real big secret of this dish.

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And put them in there, just...

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..to cool down for a minute.

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That's grand, so we don't need that any more.

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I'm going to put my chicken stock into here.

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I'm going to mix it now.

0:17:170:17:18

Just look at that wonderful juice there, bags of flavour.

0:17:180:17:22

Just bring that up to the boil, that's lovely.

0:17:240:17:26

Oh...wouldn't have seen that when I was a kid.

0:17:340:17:37

It was seriously wonderful growing up in South Yorkshire

0:17:420:17:44

because the people were so resourceful.

0:17:440:17:47

You know, you could make a meal out of anything.

0:17:470:17:49

And very often did.

0:17:510:17:52

And there was no cut of meat that was too small or, you know,

0:17:520:17:58

too cheap, that you couldn't make a decent meal out of

0:17:580:18:01

and of course you always had Yorkshire pudding to fall back on

0:18:010:18:04

because you put, you know, Yorkshire pudding round something

0:18:040:18:07

and it's instantly fabulous. Er, and foraging.

0:18:070:18:10

We used to just go and we'd pick hops from the hedgerow

0:18:100:18:12

and make our own beer.

0:18:120:18:14

We'd gather hay from the hedgerow to feed the rabbits, to feed the goats.

0:18:140:18:21

We'd collect all the berries that we could find and we'd bottle them

0:18:210:18:25

and have them in the wintertime for vitamin C

0:18:250:18:28

and it was a wonderful natural life

0:18:280:18:31

and this market was at the heart of it, really.

0:18:310:18:35

So, normally to make a risotto, you'd use an olive oil

0:18:390:18:42

but I'm not going to use that, I'm going to use some local oil,

0:18:420:18:45

some rapeseed oil - it gives it a lovely colour,

0:18:450:18:47

I'm also going to put in there a little bit of butter.

0:18:470:18:50

Just give that a swirl round and then the spring onions go in there,

0:18:510:18:55

soften them up, and then we'll put in our Italian risotto rice.

0:18:550:19:01

That's probably enough for us today.

0:19:040:19:07

Just look at the colour there already and the smell.

0:19:070:19:09

So you can hear now, it's starting to cook a little bit

0:19:110:19:13

so we don't cook it too quickly and we don't want it to colour,

0:19:130:19:16

so let's add now a ladle full of stock.

0:19:160:19:19

Look at that, you can hear it already.

0:19:210:19:23

Chicken stock, which I love,

0:19:250:19:27

and then that mussel stock which was mixed with it.

0:19:270:19:30

Get all the bits from the edge so they don't burn

0:19:300:19:33

and then just leave that to gently cook away.

0:19:330:19:36

Oh, come over here, this is Wilkinson's, the sausage shop.

0:19:400:19:43

I remember this. This was wonderful. Hello...

0:19:430:19:46

-Hello.

-Oh, what are you doing to that lamb?

0:19:460:19:49

Well, we're getting it ready for sale.

0:19:490:19:51

Are you? Fantastic. Is this a local lamb?

0:19:510:19:54

It is a local lamb, yeah. All our meat is from Yorkshire - yeah.

0:19:540:19:57

Yeah, I remember it always was. What are you doing now?

0:19:570:20:00

This is the breast of lamb.

0:20:000:20:01

Right...

0:20:010:20:02

Ah, that's something I used to eat a lot of,

0:20:020:20:05

breast of lamb, cos that was quite a cheap cut, wasn't it?

0:20:050:20:08

Yeah, still the cheapest cut.

0:20:080:20:10

And you used to roll it?

0:20:100:20:11

You can do anything with 'em, yeah.

0:20:110:20:13

Nice slow-cooked.

0:20:130:20:15

Slow-cooked, yes, really nice, yeah.

0:20:150:20:18

Fantastic to see proper butchering going on.

0:20:180:20:20

Yeah, yeah, craft butchery.

0:20:200:20:22

-Exactly. Well, it's a dying skill, isn't it?

-It is...

0:20:220:20:26

Well, we're third generation, I'm a third generation

0:20:260:20:28

so I've got me dad and me granddad to teach me.

0:20:280:20:31

Have you then been on this market then for three generations?

0:20:310:20:34

Since 1954. Yeah.

0:20:340:20:36

Before I was born actually, then, that's amazing.

0:20:360:20:39

-Not much happened before I was born!

-A long time, yeah.

0:20:390:20:42

All we need to do now is just pick these.

0:20:440:20:47

I would have asked Lesley, but she's done her nails up

0:20:490:20:52

and I don't want her nails to get dirty.

0:20:520:20:54

So there we go.

0:20:540:20:56

My risotto is almost ready.

0:20:570:20:59

I lightly cooked two pints of mussels in white wine,

0:21:010:21:04

adding a chopped shallot, until the mussels opened ready to strain.

0:21:040:21:08

I mixed the white wine liquor with chicken stock and kept it warm.

0:21:080:21:12

I softened shredded spring onions in rapeseed oil and butter,

0:21:120:21:16

then added the risotto rice.

0:21:160:21:17

After a minute or two, I started adding the stock by the ladleful.

0:21:190:21:23

Meanwhile, the mussels have cooled enough

0:21:240:21:27

to remove from their shells.

0:21:270:21:29

-You know your dad used to make you a prawn risotto?

-Yes.

0:21:290:21:32

I'm doing a mussel risotto with spring onion.

0:21:320:21:35

Oh, fantastic. I love mussels.

0:21:350:21:38

There is an art to cooking this.

0:21:380:21:40

Make sure that the liquor is all absorbed in there

0:21:400:21:42

-and get that really nice texture.

-That's the tricky bit, isn't it?

0:21:420:21:45

-Yeah.

-So I'm going to take half of these.

0:21:450:21:48

-Are you a pepper, spicy person?

-Yes.

0:21:480:21:50

-Oh, good, OK.

-Yes, I like a little bit of spice.

0:21:500:21:53

-Squirt of lemon juice.

-Right.

0:21:530:21:55

And then we are going to put that back into the risotto

0:21:570:22:00

so it gives it bags of flavour already.

0:22:000:22:03

Look at the colour that you get suddenly

0:22:030:22:05

and then we get kept the whole mussels as well.

0:22:050:22:08

-Are they mussels you bought here in the market?

-Absolutely, yes.

0:22:080:22:11

Do you know I have just found out something about this market,

0:22:110:22:14

Brian, that I didn't know, while you taste it.

0:22:140:22:16

This building, The Corn Exchange, was originally

0:22:160:22:18

devised as a concert hall, and that Nellie Melba has sung here.

0:22:180:22:22

-No.

-Yeah, Dame Nellie Melba and Clara Butt,

0:22:220:22:25

Dame Clara Butt has sung here

0:22:250:22:27

and Edward Elgar conducted the LSO here in 1909.

0:22:270:22:31

-How about that?

-So you'll have to come and do a concert here

0:22:310:22:34

at some stage, so they can all say,

0:22:340:22:36

not only did they come, so did Lesley Garrett.

0:22:360:22:38

-It's asking for it, in't it?

-So, look at that now.

0:22:380:22:41

-Are you feeling hungry, lass?

-Starving.

0:22:430:22:46

-Just a couple of these mussels.

-Yes.

0:22:460:22:48

Mussel risotto in the West Riding.

0:22:510:22:53

Made with fresh ingredients from Yorkshire's larder,

0:22:530:22:56

showcased here in Doncaster's indoor markets.

0:22:560:22:59

There you are, lass, get yourself a spoon and fork.

0:23:000:23:02

But this is just...fantastic.

0:23:020:23:04

Dig in, it will be lovely and hot.

0:23:060:23:07

I'll have a fat mussel.

0:23:070:23:09

Mmm, lovely. That's fantastic.

0:23:110:23:15

Mmm, oh, me dad would be proud.

0:23:150:23:18

That's what I wanted to know. Would your dad have liked that?

0:23:180:23:20

Me dad would have loved that.

0:23:200:23:22

Mmm, sorry I'm not talking much. It's just great.

0:23:220:23:25

It's really, really special.

0:23:250:23:27

Singers like Lesley must look after their throats and stay healthy,

0:23:320:23:36

and one of the old remedies for coughs and colds was liquorice.

0:23:360:23:40

For centuries, it was grown in Pontefract,

0:23:400:23:43

20 miles north of Doncaster.

0:23:430:23:45

I used to chew liquorice roots as a lad for their sweetness

0:23:460:23:50

Even the great Sir John Betjeman was a fan,

0:23:500:23:53

and wrote a poem called The Liquorice Fields At Pontefract!

0:23:530:23:57

Now, liquorice growing is making a comeback, and Heather Copley

0:23:580:24:02

is going to show me how to harvest it and use it in cooking.

0:24:020:24:07

So, why do you think liquorice and Pontefract got together

0:24:070:24:11

and when was it really at its heyday in modern times?

0:24:110:24:15

It was brought back a long, long time ago by the Benedictine monks

0:24:150:24:19

to the castle at Pontefract and they brought it back

0:24:190:24:23

for medical purposes.

0:24:230:24:24

However, the soil type around here is quite sandy and quite deep,

0:24:240:24:28

free from stones, so that's how they ended up growing it

0:24:280:24:31

and it took hold.

0:24:310:24:32

Because then there came a time in history when there was a decline.

0:24:320:24:35

When was that happening?

0:24:350:24:37

After the Second World War,

0:24:370:24:39

when they sort of got a taste for chocolate.

0:24:390:24:41

So what made you say, let's have a go at reintroducing liquorice?

0:24:460:24:51

Well, realistically, a lot of our customers come in

0:24:510:24:54

and they are lovely and they reminisce about liquorice

0:24:540:24:56

and how they used to chew the old liquorice, so we thought, well,

0:24:560:24:59

there's none grown around here and I thought if we don't take

0:24:590:25:02

the gauntlet up, a lot of these stories are going to be lost.

0:25:020:25:05

Is it a long process to grow liquorice?

0:25:050:25:08

Well, it has been for us.

0:25:080:25:09

The first time we planted it, a construction gentlemen

0:25:090:25:14

managed to dig it up by accident, and then we've grown it

0:25:140:25:17

in the location that we are going to show you later

0:25:170:25:20

and the rabbits ate it.

0:25:200:25:22

So you'd come out in the morning and, literally,

0:25:220:25:25

they had all just been dug up, the whole plant,

0:25:250:25:28

so it has taken a few years longer but we are in three now,

0:25:280:25:31

after we electrified the site so that the rabbits couldn't get in.

0:25:310:25:36

-Protected it by electrification.

-Protect, yes, yes, OK.

0:25:360:25:39

And now it has taken enough that we can actually dig some up

0:25:390:25:43

and next year we'll do a proper harvest, which we'll invite

0:25:430:25:47

the public to see, because so many people are desperate to see it.

0:25:470:25:50

I mean, realistically, it won't be at its maximum height

0:25:500:25:53

until it hits year seven, but I couldn't wait any longer

0:25:530:25:56

to start having a look at what was there.

0:25:560:25:58

Heather's applied for "product of designated origin" status

0:25:590:26:03

so her Pontefract-grown liquorice would stand proud next to

0:26:030:26:06

other local delicacies like Yorkshire's forced rhubarb

0:26:060:26:10

and Wensleydale cheese, produced only in the place of their name.

0:26:100:26:14

So, this is our liquorice garth.

0:26:160:26:18

-OK, so I've never done this before.

-All right.

0:26:180:26:20

-Tell me what I'm going to do?

-OK, so just dig in as normal

0:26:200:26:23

but hopefully, as you lift it up, you should hopefully feel a root,

0:26:230:26:26

you'll feel almost like a cably type thing and I'll look...

0:26:260:26:29

so just gently.

0:26:290:26:31

All right, so I don't want to go deeper or nearer the plant.

0:26:310:26:34

It's like prospecting for gold, in't it?

0:26:340:26:36

It is... It's exciting when you find it, I promise.

0:26:360:26:38

Yeah, I'm glad I volunteered for this job.

0:26:380:26:41

It is good northern muck, in't it? It's a great colour.

0:26:410:26:45

Let me come round you here, right, so I'll have a little dig here, then.

0:26:470:26:53

Oh, wait a minute, what's that there? Oh, what's that there?

0:26:590:27:02

There it is, look.

0:27:020:27:03

-That's it.

-Oh, that's great, oh, look at that, oh, wow.

0:27:030:27:06

That's big, that one.

0:27:060:27:07

It's quite incredible. Just look, it looks...

0:27:070:27:10

There we go.

0:27:120:27:13

Seems an awful lot of dirt on that.

0:27:130:27:16

You'll be fine, it's good Yorkshire dirt.

0:27:160:27:18

That is the real... Oh...

0:27:220:27:25

That is the real liquorice flavour.

0:27:250:27:27

Does remind me of when I was a lad, going to school,

0:27:280:27:31

-sucking the top inch.

-So, passes the test, then?

0:27:310:27:35

Absolutely... I'm gobsmacked, I really...

0:27:350:27:37

Sorry, but I didn't think that was going to work out quite like it has

0:27:370:27:40

-but that's...

-Let's keep going.

0:27:400:27:43

Exactly.

0:27:430:27:44

Hey, there we go.

0:27:460:27:47

Whey, just look at that!

0:27:470:27:49

'To preserve that interesting aniseedy flavouring,

0:27:500:27:54

'the pieces of root are dried for six months.'

0:27:540:27:57

This is how I remember it.

0:27:570:27:58

And this is what we import today.

0:27:580:28:00

The wooden sticks, which are very dry.

0:28:000:28:03

Literally are like twigs, but you do get the taste, it just takes

0:28:030:28:06

a wee bit, well, a lot longer than it did out of the fresh one.

0:28:060:28:09

To be able to cook with it,

0:28:090:28:11

the liquorice sticks are ground into powder.

0:28:110:28:13

Actually, it is coming, it's getting there

0:28:140:28:17

and it is getting bigger the whole time and it is a good flavour.

0:28:170:28:21

It is, but I think you need to sort of marinate it almost.

0:28:210:28:24

It needs something to go along with, to intensify.

0:28:240:28:28

-So we use a treacle.

-Right. So what's that?

0:28:280:28:31

-So this is basically the two together.

-Oh, of course.

0:28:310:28:34

So what kind of things do you cook with this kind of mixture here?

0:28:340:28:38

Well, I personally think that the whole liquorice goes

0:28:380:28:41

really well with your dark meat, so your venison, duck -

0:28:410:28:44

any game-related products works really well.

0:28:440:28:48

And today I was going to do it with some venison,

0:28:480:28:50

some locally farmed venison.

0:28:500:28:52

OK.

0:28:520:28:53

Got some pre-marinated we did this morning, same joint, same cut.

0:28:530:28:58

Smells good, and I do love the smell of butter.

0:28:580:29:01

-I like using butter.

-So, nice and hot.

0:29:010:29:03

Yep, and literally just as you would do...

0:29:030:29:06

just as you like your steak.

0:29:060:29:08

That looks lovely.

0:29:090:29:10

-Looks all right, doesn't it?

-It does, it's got a really nice colour.

0:29:100:29:14

OK, I think those are ready now

0:29:140:29:16

so I just pop those to one side to rest.

0:29:160:29:20

Lovely.

0:29:200:29:22

'Heather's prepared a tasty sauce made from blackberries,

0:29:220:29:26

'red-wine stock and honey.'

0:29:260:29:27

The green and red looks good, doesn't it?

0:29:270:29:29

-They do, that looks delicious.

-Smells nice.

0:29:290:29:32

Voila.

0:29:330:29:34

Perfect.

0:29:340:29:36

There we go, now I'm trembling with trepidation.

0:29:360:29:38

I can't wait, I can't wait, I can't wait.

0:29:380:29:41

You haven't got a knife and fork in your hand, either.

0:29:430:29:46

I'm waiting to see...

0:29:460:29:47

What I like about it is that it has got a simple sweetness,

0:29:530:29:58

but it's not too sweet.

0:29:580:30:00

It doesn't actually take away from the taste of the venison.

0:30:020:30:06

The meat, yep.

0:30:060:30:07

The liquorice gives a lovely colour, a great smell,

0:30:070:30:11

great flavour, and you've got a hit there, girl.

0:30:110:30:14

Good, thank you. Phew!

0:30:140:30:16

There's nothing like a taste or smell of food

0:30:180:30:21

to transport you to another time and place.

0:30:210:30:24

Even better, to revisit that place

0:30:240:30:27

and cook something that chimes with those memories.

0:30:270:30:30

We're taking Lesley back to Thorne

0:30:300:30:33

and the family home she was raised in.

0:30:330:30:35

And I'm going to cook a tribute to Lesley,

0:30:350:30:37

inspired by her stories of childhood.

0:30:370:30:40

Oh, Brian. I can't believe this, I can't believe I'm here.

0:30:410:30:46

This is incredible.

0:30:460:30:47

This was...this was paradise to me, this place.

0:30:480:30:52

Just over...over this hedgerow here,

0:30:520:30:55

there's the most wonderful children's playground,

0:30:550:30:58

there are reed beds and there's a river

0:30:580:31:01

and we just had this fantastic Swallows And Amazons existence

0:31:010:31:05

because we were just chucked out to play.

0:31:050:31:08

Mum said, "Out you go to play,"

0:31:080:31:10

and that would be it, we'd be out all day,

0:31:100:31:12

there are fields up there that we just got lost in for the whole day.

0:31:120:31:15

And we'd only come back when we were hungry, you know.

0:31:150:31:18

And then this house, this house is...

0:31:180:31:20

All my childhood memories are in this house.

0:31:200:31:24

And how many years did you spend here?

0:31:240:31:26

-I was here until I was 14.

-Right.

0:31:260:31:29

When I was 14, I came straight here from my grandma's council house

0:31:290:31:34

where I was born, and then I saw both of my sisters born here.

0:31:340:31:38

They were born in that bedroom. It was amazing.

0:31:380:31:41

I went to bed one night and the next morning I'd got a sister.

0:31:410:31:45

-it was just like magic.

-And then it happened again.

0:31:450:31:47

It did, how funny is that - two!

0:31:470:31:49

So now is a perfect opportunity for you to go in there,

0:31:490:31:53

relive some of those wonderful memories, share some with us,

0:31:530:31:57

-some you might not.

-Oh, I'm scared.

-No, you'll be grand...

0:31:570:32:00

Just go and enjoy and in the meantime I'm going to cook

0:32:000:32:04

a little tribute meal for you.

0:32:040:32:05

Little things that mean something in your life,

0:32:050:32:08

-this part of the world.

-Yeah.

0:32:080:32:10

But the main thing is you just go in there and enjoy yourself.

0:32:100:32:14

-Good luck.

-All right.

0:32:140:32:16

Oh, dear, here we go.

0:32:160:32:18

Oh, my goodness, this was all one.

0:32:270:32:31

This fence wasn't here because this is now two houses

0:32:310:32:37

and when we had it, it was all one house.

0:32:370:32:41

Dad had knocked them together, so this fence wasn't here

0:32:410:32:46

but there were two lawns, just like this, just like this.

0:32:460:32:50

And those fruit trees, I think are our fruit trees

0:32:550:32:58

because there was a wooden archway down to the orchard

0:32:580:33:02

and there was a shed over there with the goats.

0:33:020:33:04

We used to keep the goats and some of the hens down there.

0:33:040:33:08

And we had a vegetable garden, which appears to still be here.

0:33:090:33:15

Oh, goodness. Can we get through?

0:33:150:33:17

Let's have a look. Sorry!

0:33:170:33:19

Oh, I can't believe this - this is exactly how it was.

0:33:210:33:26

This is like stepping back in time. This is extraordinary.

0:33:260:33:32

We've got to have little look down here, come on.

0:33:320:33:34

This is just where we had our...

0:33:360:33:38

there was some canes and we had raspberries and we had...

0:33:380:33:42

Over there was a big blackcurrant bush

0:33:420:33:44

and we used to gather all these blackcurrants

0:33:440:33:46

and eat half of 'em and bottle the rest, me mum would,

0:33:460:33:49

and store them in the big cupboard,

0:33:490:33:51

and over there, in that tree, I had...

0:33:510:33:54

We had pigeons.

0:33:540:33:55

I had a pigeon loft and we used to have pigeon eggs

0:33:550:33:58

and me dad used to race the pigeons as well,

0:33:580:34:01

I've remembered we used to do that. Oh, my goodness!

0:34:010:34:04

Oh! Turn round.

0:34:050:34:08

This is me dad's shed.

0:34:080:34:11

This is the rabbit shed. It's still the same.

0:34:110:34:15

This is the rabbit shed.

0:34:150:34:17

Can we go and have a look? This is...

0:34:170:34:19

I remember sitting on this shed roof.

0:34:230:34:26

I remember everything about this.

0:34:260:34:28

This is incredible.

0:34:280:34:30

This is just incredible.

0:34:400:34:41

This is very strange because it's so like it was.

0:34:440:34:47

It's so like it was.

0:34:480:34:50

Now, my tribute dish for Lesley Garrett all revolves round

0:35:000:35:04

this space that we are in, the back garden, the fields,

0:35:040:35:06

the allotment, and everything that just grew round here.

0:35:060:35:09

I've got a fillet of pork,

0:35:090:35:11

that's in honour of the pigs that they used to keep, and then I've got

0:35:110:35:14

some apples which were growing, just come off that tree just over there.

0:35:140:35:18

And I'm going to make a little chutney because Lesley's mum

0:35:180:35:22

used to preserve everything and bottle everything.

0:35:220:35:24

Pan on, nice and hot, bit of local rapeseed oil.

0:35:240:35:28

Let's take the pork, and we should hear it sizzle.

0:35:280:35:32

SIZZLING

0:35:320:35:33

Caramelise the outside so it's nice and tasty and a lovely colour.

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Bit of salt and pepper.

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Whilst that's happening, take one of these delicious apples.

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I'm not quite sure what kind of apple it is, sort of like a Bramley,

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but not quite, but it tastes lovely - I've had a taste already.

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So what I'm going to do is just take off the bottom there,

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just shave it off so that it will stand nicely

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and then we're going to roast that.

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So you can see now I've got a lovely colour on the pork.

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So take that out, I'm just going to roast it

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in a hot oven for about 12 minutes, I would think.

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Well, this has changed considerably.

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This is now a kitchen, but it was our sitting room, I remember.

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There was a fireplace there that my dad built,

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brick fire place with a Parkray stove, I think,

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and a wonderful oak mantelpiece he built,

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and my mum had decorated this in such a modern way,

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she was very modern with her taste, Mum, way ahead of her time.

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It's very comforting, actually, being in here,

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even though it's completely different, it's...

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I feel very secure because I was very happy here.

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It's lovely.

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Just want to get a nice little colour on there - little pan -

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so it looks really, really nice.

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In the meantime, I want to grate some apple to go into my tomato chutney.

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Don't need to peel them, just mind your fingers.

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Have a quick look at these, I think these are ready to go.

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Yeah, oh, look at those, they look lovely, huh?

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Put the apples...

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..get them roasting together, lots of flavour there.

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I'm combining oil, cider vinegar

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and a squeeze of honey over a medium heat, then adding the grated apple.

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OK, so I'm going to put lots of other flavours in there.

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Fresh ginger. So then over here I've got some chilli.

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Now, Lesley says she likes things spicy.

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That little flash of red will make it look lovely, to start with,

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then we get the tomatoes in

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and because we've got those seeds in there,

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it will make it quite spikey, will that.

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Then some shallot.

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And now we'll put some garlic in, and in goes the garlic.

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It's smelling fantastic.

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That's looking brill.

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'I'm adding chopped, deseeded tomatoes, tomato puree...'

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That's brill.

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'..and seasoning.'

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The hot chutney should then simmer, to boil away the excess moisture.

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Oh, my goodness, this was my bedroom - me and my sisters.

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We had three little bunk beds here that my dad built for us

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and, yeah, this was an amazing room.

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I used to get the sunsets coming through the window here.

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And we had eventually a bathroom, just round here,

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which I think perhaps still is a bathroom

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but for years we didn't have a bathroom, we had an outside loo,

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and we had a tin bath in front of the fire,

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and then my dad and my mum, as well, cos she was just as good,

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they really went to town with DIY.

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Slowly, they did the place up and we got mod cons...

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..like, you know, a flush toilet!

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Oh, I'd go anywhere for a flush toilet!

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And we had central heating finally, and so, you know,

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there stopped being frost on the inside of the windows,

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which was nice.

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But it was brilliant, it was idyllic, it was paradise,

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it really was.

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It's crunch time in my garden kitchen.

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I seasoned a pork fillet, caramelised it in rapeseed oil,

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and roasted it for 12 minutes.

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I griddled garden apple halves, and roasted them.

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For my chutney, I heated oil, cider vinegar and honey,

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and added grated apple with fresh ginger,

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half a chilli,

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a chopped shallot and a garlic clove.

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Finally, I added fresh tomatoes, tomato puree, and seasoning.

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How was that?

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It's just been mind-blowing coming back here, it really has.

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I've loved it, I've loved every minute of it.

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Do you know, I thought I was going to get really upset

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because it's so different, but it's been done with such love

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-and such care, that's made it ever so much better.

-That's nice.

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What I've done, I've tried to use as much

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-from this little spot here as I could.

-Have you been foraging?

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-We've got a piece of pork, do you remember the pig?

-Yes.

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Right, that's part of the thing there.

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-Is it a little fillet?

-And you see these apples?

-Yes.

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-See that branch over there, the one of the right.

-My tree.

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That's where they came from, your tree,

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-you're quite right.

-I'm so touched, that's lovely.

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We've got some local tomatoes, a bit of local honey

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-because your dad used to keep bees.

-I forgot to tell you about.

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-I know, I knew that, love.

-Dad used to keep bees, you've remembered.

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I just love the colour of this. This is a chutney.

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I think the contrast of the colour looks really nice.

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So we've got a bit of sweet and sour there,

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so we'll put those on there like that.

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Put a little bit of local butter in there.

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We've got all these ingredients that you can almost touch

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just like that, you've seen... and you've knew they grew

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and they're still growing here, which is even better.

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-Get yourself a knife and fork, lass.

-I'm ready, I'm ready.

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A bit of lemon juice in there.

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Put some chopped parsley in, so now...

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Is that all it is?

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That's all it is, just on there and then just...

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-Drizzled.

-Drizzled, you are quite right.

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Not dribbled, but drizzled, and there you are.

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My tribute dish.

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Roast pork fillet on a hot tomato and apple chutney -

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capturing lots of lovely memories of Lesley's childhood

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and happy times spent in this garden.

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Get stuck in, lass.

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-Thank you.

-Make sure you have some pork with some of the chutney.

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Mmm.

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Oh, that's lovely.

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That's really good.

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This chutney is amazing, I really like the chutney.

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Oh, this is lovely, really, really good and it really, really does...

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It's the tastes of my childhood. The tastes of home.

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I could get into this al fresco dining.

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I really hope you've enjoyed your little trip down memory lane today.

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Oh, it's just been such a treat to come back here

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and just relive all those wonderful childhood memories

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of fabulous food, of nature and of music, of course,

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and I can't thank you enough

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for giving me this fabulous day, thank you.

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Great to have you, darling.

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-Well done.

-Can I come again?

0:43:090:43:11

Course you can.

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