Christopher Biggins My Life on a Plate


Christopher Biggins

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For everyone, there's a taste of food,

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or a smell of cooking, that zooms you right back to childhood.

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It's just like my mum's cake.

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I'm Brian Turner...

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It reminds me of someone I used to know at school.

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I'm going to stir up the food memories of some much-loved celebrities...

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Oh...

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Look at that.

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..going back to their early days before they were famous.

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Oh, my gosh.

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With recollections of Sunday roasts and school dinners.

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-It's time for something to eat.

-Brilliant.

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And celebrating food their home regions are proud of.

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-Which way would you like to go?

-Er, this way.

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I'll recreate a nostalgic family favourite...

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Mmm, you can't beat a crumble.

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And a tribute dish that puts my guest's life on a plate!

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Magic, magic.

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Today, actor and television personality Christopher Biggins

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returns to the county where he grew up...

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..Wiltshire.

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He'll rediscover where he first got a taste for the high life.

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We would order room service, we would order baked beans on toast

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and it gave me the start in which I became so readily accustomed to.

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And go back to the site where he first trod the boards.

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I was so rich it wasn't true.

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And I'll be creating dishes, to take him

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straight back to those good old days.

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If I knew you better I'd kiss you.

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Biggins grew up in Salisbury, one of the smallest cities in England.

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It's got a beautiful cathedral, lots of historic buildings and,

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just moments from the city centre,

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you can be out in the countryside.

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But the beauty about this place is just lovely views whichever way you look.

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Cathedral over there and just look at that there.

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It is the most beautiful city.

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I mean, it really is.

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It has a lot going for it, Salisbury.

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It's very special, it was a lovely place to grow up.

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Salisbury has been a busy market town since medieval times,

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with its different trades still remembered in its street names.

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The Gothic cathedral contains many treasures,

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including a copy of the Magna Carta.

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And dating even further back, just up the road

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is the prehistoric monument, Stonehenge.

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Plenty for young Biggins to explore.

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He was born in Oldham near Manchester in 1948, but when

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he caught pneumonia as a child,

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his parents decided to move down south.

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I was wrapped up in cotton wool and put in the back of a Pickfords'

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lorry and brought down to Salisbury and I still, to this day,

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have an aversion to cotton wool, can you believe.

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But we then came down to Salisbury and it was great.

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Biggins is best known now as the Grand Dame of pantomime

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and the King Of The Jungle.

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But he got his telly break in the sitcom Porridge.

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You're not going to escape, are you?

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It's a good lunch today. We've got jelly.

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So when was it in life that you saw that acting could be a career?

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I suppose it must have been when I went to Bristol Old Vic School,

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which were the happiest days of my life.

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I was 18 and half and I...

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It was the first time I was with my own age group.

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Up until then I was always with older people, so it was

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fantastic and it was then that I really knew what I wanted to do.

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So what about food in those days, did your mum cook well?

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Yes, she was, she did, she was a very good cook, but a very simple cook.

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But her roasts were good and I mean, she was,

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both my parents worked, in order for me to go to a public school,

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so it was quite tough, but she would always make sure there was

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something on the... in the oven or on the top.

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We had a... I remember we had one of those plates, you know

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-those square plates on top of the cooker.

-Yes, yes, yes.

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And I came home one day from school and I said, "Is this on," and I

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put my hand down on it and I brought it up and it was like an omelette.

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It had all risen my hand.

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I mean, I'm so stupid but I mean, they were good days, though.

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I mean, you know, we did eat well

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and Salisbury has a great market once a week, which is brilliant.

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Obviously, a lot of agriculture goes on around about

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but it's...it's a city-city.

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And you still enjoy eating?

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I still enjoy eating, I really do and I, I...

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You know, there are so many wonderful restaurants now.

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I mean, food has just taken leaps and bounds, hasn't it?

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I mean, it's amazing.

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-My belly's telling me it's time for something to eat.

-Brilliant!

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-Let's go.

-Good idea.

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But I'm going to be taking Biggins back in time,

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to discover the memories he has of the food of his youth.

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I'm going to try and find some fantastic local products I can use

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to make a tribute dish to celebrate his amazing life.

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Until he was 18, Biggins was an only child,

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very close to his parents, his grandparents and Auntie Vi.

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I've organised a treat for us

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that I think should kick off lots of great memories.

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Oh, Auntie Vi's sponge...

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-That's it, and eat it here.

-Look at that.

-Thank you very much.

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-Thank you.

-Did you make this?

-I did this morning.

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Oh, good man, nice and fresh.

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Did you make the coffee?

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-Thank you very much, yeah.

-You're welcome.

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Thanks very much.

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Yes, Great Auntie Vi. She was my mother's father's sister,

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and she was a real snob, and she was the one who insisted

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I have elocution lessons and she hated the fact that we all

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-WILTSHIRE ACCENT:

-..talked like that down here.

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You know, we're all Wiltshire people.

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So she insisted I have elocution lessons. That's why I talk

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so proper now, as you've probably noticed.

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Well exactly, it paid off, what.

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And...

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But Auntie Vi also used to do wonderful things, like I used

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to go and spend holidays with her. She didn't have children,

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her and her husband Arthur,

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so I was like a surrogate child to her

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and I remember she would run a bath for me,

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and I'd be in the bath and she would bring me

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a glass of ginger wine, which I thought was terribly chic.

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I was about 11 or something, I thought this was the life.

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So tell me about Victoria sandwich.

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So the first thing that Vi, Auntie Vi,

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taught me was how to make a Victoria sponge.

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And do you still make one?

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I can easily make one and I... In fact, funnily enough,

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when I did Celebrity MasterChef I did my Great Auntie's Vi's trifle,

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which was very delicious, and I was voted out in the semifinals

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because they said it was too easy. So I think I was robbed.

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-Yeah, I think you were, I agree.

-Absolutely.

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And trifle, I think, is a great British dish.

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Absolutely, and, of course, the trifle never had any fruit in it,

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it was just sponge cake, strawberry jam, lots of sherry, custard

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and I made my own custard for MasterChef,

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and then cream and then decorate with walnuts and cherries.

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It's interesting because I remember it when we used to have fruit in there.

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We used to have fruit from a tin, we used to have biscuits from a packet,

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we used to have jelly from a packet, custard from a packet

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and then, if you were lucky, you had real cream from a cow but often

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it was Carnation cream in our trifle. We couldn't find fresh cream.

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Well, your trifle sounds very common.

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We were very common, you're quite right.

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So what was your taste in food those days,

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what was the favourite thing you liked to have at home?

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One of my favourites things was, I still...

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-That's very good sponge, isn't it?

-Lovely, isn't it?

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So my grandparents lived in Swaythling, outside Southampton,

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and I used to go and stay with them and it was unbelievable.

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This is why I am the figure of the man that I am today.

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She would do the most delicious home-made mashed potato,

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very creamy, very light, absolutely wonderful,

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and then open a tin of Heinz tomato soup

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and pour it into a saucepan, heat it up, and then pour it over the top.

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It was delicious!

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I hope you got the copyright for that recipe.

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So what other kind of things did you enjoy

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in your early days around here?

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Ham, egg and chips was just a wonderful staple diet for me.

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I mean, I loved it. Especially if you get really good ham,

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and we do do ham in a very good way in this country, I think.

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I think this part of the world also is particularly famous for its pork, its pigs.

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-Yeah, its pigs...

-And its curing of bacon.

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Yeah, we look after our pigs here.

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-Mm, have a drop more cake.

-Thank you, I will.

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The story of how Wiltshire ham became world famous can be

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traced to one family from the small town of Calne.

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Back in the 1840s, a butcher called Harris discovered how to cure

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ham and bacon in salt water or brine.

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This became known as the Wiltshire Cure.

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Soon the small family business had become one of the biggest

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employers in town and, by the 1950s,

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the Harris family had over 2,000 employees

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in their huge pork factory,

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which was just one of many in the county.

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But a slump in the industry meant the factories shut one by one.

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When the Harris factory closed in 1984,

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one in five people in Calne lost their jobs.

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Also nearly lost was the secret of the Wiltshire Cure process...

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Come on, then.

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..until a farmer called Roger Keen decided to step in and rescue it.

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And now he has over 350 pigs on his farm near Chippenham.

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What are these ones, they're very distinctive?

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Well, this is the Wessex Saddleback,

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-the white being the saddle, I suppose.

-Right.

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We keep it really for nostalgic reasons.

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OK, does that mean they're not the best bacon or ham makers?

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They make lovely bacon and ham but it's...

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They're inclined towards being a little bit on the fat side for modern tastes.

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People unfortunately now seem to buy with their eyes,

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not with their stomachs.

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If they bought with their stomachs,

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they would know that flavour comes with fat.

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You can't actually get flavour out of lean

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because lean is primarily water, whereas fat is oil.

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Absolutely right.

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And what's the lifespan of these animals?

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Well, we think in terms of litters.

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-They'll have two-and-a-bit litters a year.

-Right.

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And probably about eight litters, which is four years.

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And what do you look for when the people are out in fields

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seeing pigs? What...what shape is it? Is that the ideal shape?

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-The length is the thing we're looking for.

-Straight back.

-Yeah.

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Because again, the longer the pig, the more bacon we get.

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Right, so the bacon comes from the loin and the belly.

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Yeah, so your middle section, you get your back and your streak,

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the hind leg is the ham, the forequarter is like shoulder bacon,

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so you get your collar bacon or fore hock bacon from the front end.

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-So it's all used?

-Oh, yes, yes.

-Nothing's wasted.

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Well, they always say the only thing they can't sell is the squeak.

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Yeah, I've heard that as well.

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Well I think we should go and look at those little ones over there.

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Why not?

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Here you are, girls, you've had your lot now, look, bag's empty.

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Good timing.

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These lovely little piglets are various colours.

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Are these different breeds, these brown ones?

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There is. We cross some with a Duroc.

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That's a breed that produces

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that spotted pig that you can see round there.

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Oh, right, yes, yeah. And those are what age?

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About three weeks, they've been farrowed, yeah.

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And they'll be bacon weight about five-and-a-half to six months.

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And they live outside for most of the time?

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Well, they are outside until they get to sort of pork weight,

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and then we have to move them in the barn so that we can control them.

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-Sure.

-I mean, you can see they're pretty ill-disciplined.

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They certainly seem very happy at the moment, enjoying life as they can.

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But when they get older, they're quite happy to do a bit

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-more like their mums, lie about a lot.

-Lovely.

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-So shall we go and look at the factory?

-Yeah, that would be good.

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On the farm, Roger makes five different sorts of ham

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as well as bacon and sausages.

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Well, this is where it all happens.

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-This is the brine tank.

-Right.

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So how comes that you're doing this Wiltshire Cure?

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We were pig farmers in the first instance

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-who sent our pigs into a factory in Calne.

-Right.

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It closed down and when it did, we faced the fact that there would be

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no bacon produced in Wiltshire any more

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and we decided we would quite like to produce

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a good quality bacon that people could enjoy.

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So we went to the factory with a view to buying some equipment,

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bits and pieces and came away with the factory manager.

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But one of the other things we bought was a gallon of the brine

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from the factory and put it with our freshly made up brine

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so that that could multiply and develop and what we know

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is that we do have here the actual only original Wiltshire brine.

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Brine is a mixture of salt, sugar and good bacteria.

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If the ingredients are perfectly balanced,

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it'll never go off and can be used indefinitely.

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By adding some of the Harris brine to his mix,

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Roger has a real link with the past in these tanks.

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Roger also oak smokes his ham and bacon in the traditional way

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and I'm dying to see how that's done.

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This is Kevin who runs the bacon house.

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-Hi Kevin, how are you doing?

-Nice to meet you.

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And he can perhaps fill you in a bit on the smoking process.

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Fantastic, that's very kind, Roger, thank you very much, yeah.

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So you're the smokehouse expert?

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Ah, yeah, amongst other things.

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As you can see, Brian, we use natural oak and beech sawdust.

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We get it from a local sawmill, purely traditional,

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and we use a little bit of straw just to help light it

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in the early stages.

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And then we let it smoulder away for about 24 hours,

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sometimes a little bit more, sometimes a little bit less.

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How do you judge that, by smell?

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-That's just...it's experience.

-OK.

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Most of us have been here for a good number of years.

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We know roughly what sawdust, you know, how it should look like

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and we know the feel of the sawdust as well, so we know how wet it is.

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And if it's very hot, we always tend to be on a bit more

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-of the cautious side.

-You've got streaky bacon in there today.

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We've got streaky bacon, we also have middles as well,

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which we can break down into back and streak.

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We have a few three-quarter sides in there

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and we have a few gammons in there, as well.

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-Oh, fantastic, and it's all ready to go?

-It is already to go.

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I'm excited. Show us how it's done.

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Right, Brian, what we are after is a nice consistent

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amount of sawdust, evenly spread.

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As you can feel, there is a little bit of damp in that sawdust

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and that's perfect, that's just what we want.

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We want it to be able to burn long and slow.

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And we're all already to go.

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-Fantastic, so let's, let's do it.

-OK.

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-As simple as that.

-As simple as that.

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That looks like it's burning quite nicely.

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I think we ought to make a little bit of a retreat.

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So that was really quite simple, that's it. It was exciting.

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So how long is it going to be in there for?

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I would say in two days' time,

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it will all have died down and it will be ready to take out.

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-Perfect.

-Perfect.

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I've seen how it's brined, I've seen how it's smoked,

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there's just one thing left to do.

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Well, you know, what they say -

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the proof of the pudding is in the eating.

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That does look delicious, does that.

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What I do like about it there is still a nice covering of fat on it.

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-Yeah.

-And it feels moist.

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That's where the flavour is, isn't it, as we both know.

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-It's not over-brined.

-No, no...

-It's not salty.

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We have reduced the content a little on the old days

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because everybody has refrigeration.

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If they didn't, then you would need to up the salt again.

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It is a lovely flavour, is that.

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It's not full of liquid and neither is it short of liquid.

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That ham's given a bit of inspiration.

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I'm going to put together a dish for Christopher Biggins

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which, I think using Wiltshire ham

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-will remind him of his Salisbury upbringing.

-That's good.

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Thank you.

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In Salisbury, both the schools that Biggins attended are long gone.

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But there are two places in town that played a huge

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part in his education as a bon viveur -

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The Cathedral Hotel and, right opposite,

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The Red Lion Hotel.

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So this is the centre of Salisbury.

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It is, behind is the market square,

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which is through there and to the right,

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and this is where my mother used to work in the cocktail bar

0:17:060:17:10

and she loved it, made lots and lots of friends.

0:17:100:17:12

And then over there, the Red Lion Hotel, that's where my grandmother

0:17:120:17:17

-paid to do silver service.

-Oh, really?

0:17:170:17:20

Because in those days the tips were so good that they would pay

0:17:200:17:22

to get the privilege of working over there.

0:17:220:17:25

I mean, it was very grand.

0:17:250:17:26

Well, I'm going to cook something that I think will take you back,

0:17:260:17:30

be nostalgic, take you back to those early days.

0:17:300:17:33

-Right, good.

-And you should go inside and have a look

0:17:330:17:35

and see what it stirs up, those memories.

0:17:350:17:38

-Enjoy the trip in there.

-Thank you very much. Enjoy your cooking.

0:17:380:17:41

Come on, let's go and have a look in here.

0:17:410:17:43

Wow, this has changed beyond all recognition.

0:17:530:17:56

I mean, this used to be the chicest hotel in Salisbury

0:17:560:18:00

and this area here was the cocktail bar,

0:18:000:18:03

which my mother, Pam, used to work in,

0:18:030:18:05

and it was certainly the chicest place in Salisbury

0:18:050:18:08

to come and have a drink.

0:18:080:18:09

It was marvellous.

0:18:090:18:10

And as a child, I was brought in with my mother

0:18:100:18:14

and the manger's daughter and I would go up to the manager's flat,

0:18:140:18:17

which was upstairs and we would order room service.

0:18:170:18:21

We would order baked beans on toast and a soft drink

0:18:210:18:24

and it gave me the start of which I became so readily accustomed to.

0:18:240:18:27

I think if I'm right, round the corner is a lift,

0:18:270:18:31

which we used to go up to the flat.

0:18:310:18:33

Yes, you can see, look it's all...

0:18:330:18:36

Oh, this is the lift that we used to take up to the

0:18:360:18:39

first floor to the manager's apartment

0:18:390:18:43

where I used to go.

0:18:430:18:45

So I'm going to go up now and I'll see you up there. See you later.

0:18:450:18:49

I've set up behind the hotel to cook a dish inspired by Biggins' nostalgia

0:18:520:18:57

for his hometown.

0:18:570:18:58

And he's already given me

0:18:580:19:00

a great big hint about one of his favourites.

0:19:000:19:03

Now, Wiltshire ham, egg and chips seems to me

0:19:050:19:07

like a great dish to cook.

0:19:070:19:09

We're not going to do quite that for Christopher,

0:19:090:19:11

but it will be very similar to that.

0:19:110:19:13

I'm going to marry together this wonderful Wiltshire smoked bacon.

0:19:130:19:18

I've got a pan on here.

0:19:180:19:19

I generally put a wee bit of oil in there, just to get it going.

0:19:190:19:23

Then we put some nice bits

0:19:230:19:26

of smoked bacon in there

0:19:260:19:29

and this is going to be smelling so good.

0:19:290:19:33

And the great thing about good bacon is it's not leaching water

0:19:330:19:37

all the time, which is perfect for us.

0:19:370:19:39

I'm also going to need some of Roger's Wiltshire ham

0:19:410:19:44

and some local cheese for my dish.

0:19:440:19:46

But first, I've got to get the bacon deliciously crisp.

0:19:470:19:50

Let's just turn this bit.

0:19:520:19:54

It's got a lovely colour, as I said earlier,

0:19:540:19:56

no water in it, so it's making it really nice,

0:19:560:19:59

crispy round the edges, with that bit of fat.

0:19:590:20:01

Wow, yes, this is the manager's sitting room.

0:20:130:20:17

His daughter and myself would come up here and we'd put

0:20:170:20:21

the television on, we'd sit, perhaps do a bit of homework,

0:20:210:20:24

have our room service and this is where I got the taste of the

0:20:240:20:27

good life, whilst my mother was working downstairs in the cocktail

0:20:270:20:31

bar and her father was the manager who was working downstairs as well.

0:20:310:20:35

So we got the life of Riley up here, which was very good.

0:20:350:20:40

This brings back so many memories.

0:20:400:20:42

It was so long ago.

0:20:420:20:44

Back in my kitchen, the bacon's looking great.

0:20:500:20:54

Time to reveal the dish I'm making, as a twist on an old favourite.

0:20:540:20:59

What I'm going to make is sort of a French Croque Monsieur,

0:20:590:21:02

but we call it a toasted cheese and ham sandwich,

0:21:020:21:05

but with a bit of egg as well.

0:21:050:21:07

So some really good, fresh, country bread,

0:21:070:21:10

as thin or as thick as you like,

0:21:100:21:13

but I think you need a little bit of substance to this

0:21:130:21:15

because it's a good breakfast dish, it's a really great brunch dish.

0:21:150:21:19

Then we take some slightly softened butter...

0:21:190:21:21

This is where you can be as frugal,

0:21:230:21:27

or not, as you like.

0:21:270:21:29

So there goes our buttered bread.

0:21:290:21:33

So we're going to take our pieces of wonderful Wiltshire ham on there,

0:21:330:21:38

as much or as little as you like.

0:21:380:21:41

We'll make this really nice and hearty, so plenty of ham in there.

0:21:410:21:45

And then we got this tremendous local cheese,

0:21:450:21:49

tastes fantastic, and put that on top.

0:21:490:21:53

We make a sandwich, not that difficult.

0:21:530:21:57

You might think this is a bit of a simple recipe so far,

0:21:590:22:02

but just you wait!

0:22:020:22:04

Biggins is on his way to taste my dish,

0:22:050:22:07

but he's got a bit waylaid over the road.

0:22:070:22:10

This is the infamous Mrs Thomas, who I remember vividly,

0:22:110:22:16

and she owned and ran this hotel with a rod of iron.

0:22:160:22:20

She was an incredible, very, very famous woman of Salisbury

0:22:200:22:25

and always has been and I'm thrilled to see this picture,

0:22:250:22:28

because this is exactly how I remember her.

0:22:280:22:31

She would sit in the corner of these rooms and I would come

0:22:310:22:35

in with my friend John Brown and we'd have coffee and cheese scones.

0:22:350:22:39

We always came here to be something special

0:22:390:22:42

and I think we owe a lot to this woman.

0:22:420:22:45

She was incredibly special

0:22:450:22:47

and very much part of my early upbringing.

0:22:470:22:50

I'm about to put the finishing touches to my take on ham and eggs.

0:22:510:22:55

I've cooked some fabulous Wiltshire bacon until it's perfectly crisp,

0:22:570:23:02

and prepared a sandwich of local ham and local cheese ready for the pan.

0:23:020:23:06

Now what I'm hoping is that this dish will have a bit of nostalgia.

0:23:090:23:12

It's not quite ham, eggs and chips.

0:23:120:23:15

-No.

-But I've got Wiltshire ham, I've got eggs...

-Yes.

0:23:150:23:18

-I've got some lovely smoked bacon in a sandwich.

-So it's healthy.

0:23:180:23:21

-Oh, yes. You see that little hole there?

-Yes.

0:23:210:23:24

I've taken all the calories out.

0:23:240:23:26

Believe that and you'll believe anything, dear boy.

0:23:260:23:29

So the idea is, just to make it a little more presentable,

0:23:290:23:31

I'm going to take a cutter and I'm just going to cut through there,

0:23:310:23:34

because it just looks that little bit smarter.

0:23:340:23:37

Let me put a bit of oil into this pan here.

0:23:370:23:40

Is that olive oil or just cooking oil?

0:23:400:23:42

-This is rapeseed oil.

-Right.

0:23:420:23:43

-Oh, look at those eggs.

-Oh...

0:23:430:23:45

Nice, fresh eggs.

0:23:450:23:47

Bit of salt and a bit of pepper.

0:23:470:23:49

Lovely.

0:23:490:23:51

This way, at least, you don't have to say, "How do you like your eggs?"

0:23:510:23:54

because you get them just as they are. So I'll beat it up there.

0:23:540:23:56

If you want to put a bit of cream in there, so be it.

0:23:560:23:59

So we get the whole thing.

0:23:590:24:01

-Careful not to leave it in there too long.

-No.

0:24:010:24:04

Because it'll get wet and soggy but, actually,

0:24:040:24:06

just make sure that you get some, all the way round there,

0:24:060:24:09

it'll hold the whole thing together.

0:24:090:24:11

-I'm salivating here, this is terrible.

-So am I!

0:24:110:24:13

Right, so now...

0:24:160:24:17

-Are you going to have a taste of ham?

-I can't resist that ham.

0:24:170:24:20

Well, I don't blame you at all. I think that's a good idea, is that.

0:24:200:24:23

-If I were you, I'd do the same.

-Mmm...wonderful ham.

0:24:230:24:27

-It's good, isn't it?

-Mmm.

0:24:270:24:29

-Just...

-Is this Wiltshire ham?

0:24:290:24:31

Absolutely.

0:24:310:24:33

That looks so delicious, Brian.

0:24:330:24:35

I do know some people, and I may be one of them,

0:24:350:24:37

who would actually cook this in oil and butter.

0:24:370:24:40

This is perfect for you and I because this is, you know,

0:24:400:24:42

we're hams and we're eating hams.

0:24:420:24:44

So a bit of bacon goes underneath.

0:24:450:24:49

I'm going to take this now

0:24:500:24:52

-and I'm going to put it in the middle.

-Look at that!

0:24:520:24:55

It isn't Wiltshire ham, egg and chips...

0:24:550:24:58

..but it's the next best thing.

0:24:580:25:00

This is my nostalgia dish for Biggins - ham and eggs transformed

0:25:010:25:06

into a mouth-watering Croque Monsieur with crisp Wiltshire bacon.

0:25:060:25:10

Good for breakfast,

0:25:100:25:12

great for brunch and I'm hoping perfect for right now.

0:25:120:25:16

Oh...

0:25:210:25:23

-Pregnant pause...

-Oh...

0:25:230:25:25

-It's heaven.

-Good man.

0:25:250:25:27

It's what I call real comfort food.

0:25:270:25:30

You can't go better than this.

0:25:300:25:32

And hopefully it's just brought you back to the days

0:25:330:25:36

when you used to live in Salisbury as a young man and this is the kind

0:25:360:25:39

-of thing you used to have.

-Absolutely, all the time.

0:25:390:25:41

Wonderful. Thank you so much.

0:25:410:25:43

If I knew you better I'd kiss you.

0:25:430:25:45

I think my version of ham and eggs was a great success.

0:25:470:25:51

Now, the ham and bacon may be the home-grown stars of this dish,

0:25:510:25:55

but I think this wonderful local cheese played a very

0:25:550:25:59

important supporting role.

0:25:590:26:00

Cheese-making in this country dates back 2,000 years.

0:26:020:26:06

It was a great way to preserve a glut of milk

0:26:060:26:08

and every region developed its favourites,

0:26:080:26:11

like Wensleydale and Stilton.

0:26:110:26:15

40 miles north of Salisbury is the village of Brinkworth.

0:26:250:26:28

Here, a young cheesemaker called Ceri Cryer has come up with the

0:26:280:26:33

brilliant idea of reviving a long lost cheese called Wiltshire loaf.

0:26:330:26:38

I started out my career as a teacher.

0:26:380:26:41

Through teaching I met my husband, Chad.

0:26:410:26:45

We came back to the farm and Chad saw the farm with fresh eyes

0:26:450:26:48

and he saw it as an opportunity and he said,

0:26:480:26:51

"Let's do something with the farm."

0:26:510:26:53

So I had been on a cheese-making course

0:26:530:26:55

so I said I could make cheese,

0:26:550:26:57

and so we set off on the path of cheese making.

0:26:570:27:00

Ceri now makes four different cheeses with the milk from

0:27:020:27:05

her family's herd of pedigree Friesian cows.

0:27:050:27:08

Today, she's making a batch of the traditional Wiltshire Loaf.

0:27:080:27:12

We make our cheese on our own dairy farm

0:27:130:27:16

so the cows are milked from the same farm where the cheese is made.

0:27:160:27:19

There's just a short distance from the milking parlour

0:27:190:27:22

to the cheese dairy.

0:27:220:27:23

So as soon as the tank's got that last drop of milk in,

0:27:230:27:26

it goes straight across to our dairy

0:27:260:27:28

and starts being turned into our lovely cheese.

0:27:280:27:31

This is the starter culture.

0:27:320:27:34

It's a freeze dried culture

0:27:340:27:36

and it contains bacteria

0:27:360:27:39

that will turn the milk sugars into milk acids.

0:27:390:27:44

So the lactose into lactic acid.

0:27:440:27:46

The next stage is to add the rennet.

0:27:480:27:51

We use a microbial rennet so that our cheese is suitable for vegetarians.

0:27:510:27:56

Traditionally the rennet came from the lining of the calf's stomach

0:27:560:28:00

and that makes the milk clot and go solid

0:28:000:28:03

into a big mass of curd.

0:28:030:28:05

Since we've started cheese making in the dairy,

0:28:070:28:09

this has been the tank we've always had

0:28:090:28:11

and it holds 700 litres.

0:28:110:28:13

With cheese making, you are really concentrating

0:28:130:28:16

the goodness that's in the milk

0:28:160:28:18

and it's a ratio of about 10 to 1,

0:28:180:28:20

so 10 litres of milk will make 1kg of cheese.

0:28:200:28:23

So from this tank, today we will make 21 Wiltshire loaf cheeses.

0:28:230:28:29

Wiltshire loaf was a very popular cheese.

0:28:310:28:34

It was mentioned in two of Jane Austen's novels

0:28:340:28:37

and I'm really proud to be reviving this traditional Wiltshire cheese.

0:28:370:28:42

When world war rationing came about,

0:28:420:28:45

people could only buy a few ounces of cheese per week,

0:28:450:28:48

so there really wasn't the market for cheese.

0:28:480:28:51

I think that might have been the key reason

0:28:510:28:53

why a lot of the regional cheese has died out.

0:28:530:28:55

So solid bits are the curd

0:28:560:28:58

and the liquid part is the whey.

0:28:580:29:01

Even right now this tastes quite nice, quite sweet and warm.

0:29:010:29:05

People used to eat curds and whey,

0:29:050:29:07

like Little Mrs Muffet on her tuffet.

0:29:070:29:09

I want to keep the curd

0:29:090:29:12

and I want to allow the whey to be released.

0:29:120:29:16

This is Kate and Kate's going to help me

0:29:190:29:22

with the stage of milling the cheese.

0:29:220:29:24

We need to get the cheese into small pieces

0:29:240:29:26

and to use that we'll use the peg mill.

0:29:260:29:28

The peg mill tears the curd into smaller pieces

0:29:310:29:34

so that when we add the salt, the salt will be evenly distributed.

0:29:340:29:38

This is the most physical part of cheese making.

0:29:380:29:42

You can probably almost hear my heartbeat.

0:29:420:29:44

The salt's added for three reasons.

0:29:460:29:48

Of course, it adds flavour to the cheese,

0:29:480:29:51

it also helps draw out more of the moisture

0:29:510:29:54

and it also stops any nasty bugs from growing.

0:29:540:29:56

Once milled, the curds are packed into cheese moulds before being

0:29:580:30:01

placed into a hydraulic press.

0:30:010:30:03

So in times gone by, cheeses might have been pressed by having

0:30:060:30:10

just a weight put on top of the cheeses,

0:30:100:30:13

or a screw press,

0:30:130:30:15

with a metal screw, like an apple press.

0:30:150:30:18

So you put the cheese on there

0:30:180:30:20

and then you can tighten a board pressing down on top of the cheese.

0:30:200:30:23

The cheeses will be pressed overnight before being transferred

0:30:230:30:27

to the ripening rooms, where they'll be waxed

0:30:270:30:29

and left to mature for three months.

0:30:290:30:31

The bigger a cheese is, the longer it can be ripened for.

0:30:330:30:36

Think of the big Parmesans that are ripened for years.

0:30:360:30:39

A small cheese can dry out too much if you try to keep it for too long.

0:30:390:30:43

I find that that three months is just about perfect

0:30:430:30:46

for the Wiltshire loaf.

0:30:460:30:48

I'm going to find a way to use a bit of Ceri's Wiltshire Loaf

0:30:520:30:55

in the final dish I'm cooking today -

0:30:550:30:57

my tribute to Biggins.

0:30:570:30:59

Back in Salisbury, we've come to the Queen Elizabeth Gardens

0:31:030:31:07

on the banks of the River Avon,

0:31:070:31:09

a gorgeous park, just minutes from the middle of town

0:31:090:31:12

where I'm going to cook my tribute dish for Biggins.

0:31:120:31:15

So this is central Salisbury.

0:31:160:31:19

You can still see the Cathedral spires.

0:31:190:31:21

You can from almost everywhere, can't you?

0:31:210:31:23

You can, and this is where, this is quite famous here, this park,

0:31:230:31:27

because this is where Constable painted

0:31:270:31:29

his masterpiece of Salisbury Cathedral.

0:31:290:31:32

-Oh, right.

-This is the park that he painted from, so it's rather clever.

0:31:320:31:35

And what reputation do you think Salisbury has in the world today?

0:31:350:31:38

Does it have... Apart from, I suppose, the Cathedral?

0:31:380:31:41

Well, I think, yes, I think it's a historical place

0:31:410:31:43

because we've not only got Salisbury Cathedral, we've got

0:31:430:31:46

Old Sarum, which is a very important historical mound.

0:31:460:31:50

And then a little bit further up the road we've got Stonehenge,

0:31:500:31:54

so it's full of history all around here.

0:31:540:31:56

So whilst I go and prepare another dish for you...

0:31:560:31:59

Yes, which I can't wait, because the first one was delicious.

0:31:590:32:02

Good man.

0:32:020:32:03

This is the perfect opportunity for you to go back and have a look where

0:32:030:32:06

you used to live, where the school was, where anything that you....

0:32:060:32:09

-Salisbury Rep...

-Absolutely right, yes.

0:32:090:32:11

-OK, I'll see you later then.

-Be good.

-Get cooking.

-Enjoy.

0:32:110:32:14

Salisbury is definitely a place steeped in history, as Biggins says,

0:32:150:32:20

but today, I feel like it's his own history that I've found out about.

0:32:200:32:25

I'm going to use some of the things I've learned about him to create

0:32:250:32:30

one very special tribute dish

0:32:300:32:32

using some more lovely, local ingredients.

0:32:320:32:36

So I am going to do a dish, which is going to have pork sausages,

0:32:380:32:42

Wiltshire pork sausages, some more Wiltshire bacon, beautiful stuff.

0:32:420:32:46

We've got some local cheese and as a tribute to his beans on toast,

0:32:460:32:50

I'm going to use chickpeas in tomato sauce.

0:32:500:32:54

So this is what we are going to do first. Pan on,

0:32:540:32:57

and it's a bit of oil in there.

0:32:570:32:59

Lovely colour, this is.

0:33:010:33:03

Smells wonderful.

0:33:030:33:05

I need to get a good heat

0:33:050:33:07

with a following wind.

0:33:070:33:10

Just look at these lovely sausages,

0:33:110:33:13

really are.

0:33:130:33:14

Delicious looking, nice and fresh.

0:33:140:33:17

Bags of meat, not too much rusk,

0:33:170:33:19

a good balance, really tasty.

0:33:190:33:22

I'm sure he's going to love these sausages.

0:33:220:33:24

So we put those into a pan.

0:33:240:33:26

Hopefully wants to be nice and hot.

0:33:260:33:28

It's just about hot enough, is this.

0:33:280:33:31

So here we are, this is where I was brought up.

0:33:350:33:38

I was 18-and-a-half years old when I left here, which is

0:33:380:33:41

a long time ago and it's fascinating.

0:33:410:33:45

It brings back so many memories.

0:33:450:33:46

The sort of front room is this room here.

0:33:460:33:49

At the back there was a kitchen.

0:33:490:33:51

We had an outdoor lavatory,

0:33:510:33:52

which I was terrified of going to the loo,

0:33:520:33:55

and there were three bedrooms.

0:33:550:33:57

It seems bigger somehow.

0:33:570:33:58

I mean, those houses are new there.

0:33:580:34:01

Those weren't here when I lived here.

0:34:010:34:03

Something must happened, they must have pulled down a whole street, I would imagine,

0:34:030:34:07

but all these houses are absolutely as it was

0:34:070:34:11

when I was here 40 years ago.

0:34:110:34:13

Yes, unbelievable.

0:34:130:34:15

Things don't change.

0:34:150:34:17

Biggins should be taking away some great memories of his trip

0:34:190:34:22

back to his old neighbourhood

0:34:220:34:24

and I do hope the dish I'm making will be a meal to remember as well.

0:34:240:34:28

So the sausages have got a decent colour on them.

0:34:280:34:31

Take them out at this stage.

0:34:310:34:33

I think six here,

0:34:330:34:35

four for Christopher and two for me.

0:34:350:34:37

I'm going to make a sauce in the same pan,

0:34:380:34:41

starting with chopped onions and bacon.

0:34:410:34:44

So the idea here is to just get flavour going,

0:34:460:34:49

we don't want too much colour

0:34:490:34:51

and I'm just going to put some garlic in there.

0:34:510:34:53

Shave the garlic.

0:34:530:34:55

Lovely flavours.

0:34:580:35:00

Now put the sausages back in.

0:35:030:35:05

Any juices there are there,

0:35:090:35:11

those go back in there, that's lovely.

0:35:110:35:13

I've got some fresh thyme here.

0:35:140:35:16

So chopped tomatoes go in

0:35:160:35:18

and then about a glass of white wine.

0:35:180:35:21

Give it all a bit of a swirl here.

0:35:240:35:26

Look at that lovely colour in there.

0:35:260:35:28

If Biggins doesn't like this I'm in real trouble,

0:35:280:35:30

but I'm sure he's going to love this.

0:35:300:35:33

It'll need half an hour in a hot oven.

0:35:330:35:35

Back on the street where he grew up,

0:35:360:35:39

Biggins is working up an appetite posing

0:35:390:35:41

with current residents, like Jan.

0:35:410:35:43

-There you go.

-Thank you.

-Lovely.

0:35:450:35:47

-Nice to see you.

-It's lovely to see you, yeah.

0:35:470:35:49

-How does it feel coming back?

-Very odd, very odd indeed.

0:35:490:35:53

It's such a long time since I've been here.

0:35:530:35:55

When did you leave?

0:35:550:35:57

When I was 18-and-a-half, so we're talking something like 50 years ago.

0:35:570:36:01

Yes, so it was before we'd even moved here.

0:36:010:36:04

Yes, so it was very different then.

0:36:040:36:05

Because your brother's quite a bit younger...

0:36:050:36:08

Yes, he's 18 years younger, so when I moved out

0:36:080:36:10

he was a baby because, you know, my mo...

0:36:100:36:12

My parents told me, my mother said to me, "I'm pregnant",

0:36:120:36:15

and I said, "Don't be so stupid!"

0:36:150:36:17

I mean, the thought of one's parents still doing it was appalling.

0:36:170:36:20

-I suppose so.

-I know differently now!

0:36:200:36:22

Not everything in the neighbourhood is the same as in Biggins' day.

0:36:280:36:32

Well I can't remember any cars, hardly, being here.

0:36:320:36:36

So it was a lot of playing, children playing,

0:36:360:36:39

and things happening and, of course, this was the way I walked to

0:36:390:36:42

school and I always remember we had a great view of Salisbury Cathedral.

0:36:420:36:45

Where these cars are, there were houses right up to that tree.

0:36:480:36:51

Actually, the school... No, I'm wrong...

0:36:510:36:53

The school was on this car park, that's right, the school was there.

0:36:530:36:57

It's all coming back, it's amazing.

0:36:570:36:59

Memories.

0:36:590:37:01

Biggins left school at 16 without any qualifications

0:37:070:37:10

but got a job as an assistant stage manager

0:37:100:37:13

at the local theatre, The Salisbury Playhouse.

0:37:130:37:16

So this really is a lot of memories

0:37:190:37:23

streaming back because this building was the site of the Arts Theatre

0:37:230:37:27

and Salisbury Playhouse from 1953-1976.

0:37:270:37:32

I mean, it was a fantastic building.

0:37:320:37:34

All this, of course, is new, but it was an old Methodist church

0:37:340:37:37

and it had steps going up to it and it looked very imposing, actually,

0:37:370:37:42

and in there we did the most incredible productions.

0:37:420:37:45

I mean, play after play - two-weekly rep.

0:37:450:37:48

I remember also, the end of two weeks we would take the set down

0:37:480:37:53

and we would put the new one up and so at two o'clock in the morning

0:37:530:37:57

I would walk up this street to home and I would be often

0:37:570:38:01

stopped by the police saying,

0:38:010:38:02

"What are you doing? Where have you been?"

0:38:020:38:04

you know, like I was sort of a robber or something, or a criminal.

0:38:040:38:07

But you know, it was a wonderful experience.

0:38:070:38:10

I mean, I was very proud to have spent two years here working.

0:38:100:38:14

Starting off at £2 a week, heavily subsidised by my mum and dad

0:38:140:38:18

and then in the second year I went to eight and then at the end

0:38:180:38:21

of that second year, I was on £14 a week.

0:38:210:38:24

I was so rich it wasn't true.

0:38:240:38:26

I hope Biggins has enjoyed his trip back here,

0:38:270:38:30

and I've taken inspiration from his memories, and from some

0:38:300:38:35

wonderful Wiltshire produce,

0:38:350:38:36

to come up with a dish just for him.

0:38:360:38:39

I've already browned sausages in a pan and made a sauce of onion

0:38:390:38:43

and bacon, with garlic, thyme and tinned tomatoes.

0:38:430:38:47

I've popped the sausages back in the pan

0:38:470:38:50

and left everything to cook together.

0:38:500:38:53

I've even cooked some mash which, I hope, is as good as his grandma's.

0:38:530:38:58

It's time to reveal all to Biggins.

0:38:590:39:02

I have to tell you, it's perfect timing, as this has been in the oven

0:39:020:39:06

for the last 20 to 30 minutes. Just look at that.

0:39:060:39:11

-Oh, my goodness, that's wonderful.

-Now that's the start of it.

0:39:110:39:14

-I've got some tomatoes here.

-Yeah.

0:39:140:39:16

I'm just going to finish chopping those up.

0:39:160:39:18

I've got tinned tomatoes in so that all goes in there now.

0:39:180:39:22

A bit of local honey.

0:39:220:39:24

-Wiltshire honey?

-Wiltshire honey, absolutely,

0:39:250:39:28

just to give those tomatoes that little bit of sweetness.

0:39:280:39:31

And I did actually think of, when you used to eat beans on toast,

0:39:310:39:36

-so they're not quite beans on toast, these are chickpeas.

-All right.

0:39:360:39:39

So the chickpeas go in there

0:39:390:39:42

and we give them a stir round and put it into another dish.

0:39:420:39:47

Now this is my take of a cassoulet,

0:39:470:39:50

-a great French dish.

-Oh, I love cassoulet.

0:39:500:39:53

And I think this actually works lovely as a dish.

0:39:530:39:55

So we just spread that over the top, that's perfect in there.

0:39:550:39:58

Then we get rid of that down there.

0:39:580:40:01

Now just one other thing.

0:40:010:40:03

-This is a "grate" cheese.

-Oh!

0:40:030:40:06

-Oh, yes, it is.

-Oh, no, it isn't.

0:40:060:40:09

Dear, oh, dear. The old ones are the best.

0:40:090:40:11

They do it and I have to say we're two of the eldest and...

0:40:110:40:14

-And, in my opinion, two of the best.

-Yeah, exactly.

0:40:140:40:17

I'm going to put that with some breadcrumbs.

0:40:170:40:20

So all we do now is we sprinkle the cheese,

0:40:200:40:24

the breadcrumb and the parsley mix over the top

0:40:240:40:28

and that goes back into a fairly hot oven.

0:40:280:40:32

It is cooked, so we just want to make sure it gratinates up,

0:40:320:40:36

it gets a really lovely colour.

0:40:360:40:38

That's on, in it goes.

0:40:380:40:40

The dish that we're going to see in just a couple of moments...

0:40:400:40:43

I just hope it encapsulates what I've learnt about you

0:40:430:40:47

from you and here about, about this wonderful place here.

0:40:470:40:50

-The tomatoes are meant to represent the tomato soup.

-Yes.

0:40:500:40:54

I've got some mashed potato to serve with this wonderful dish.

0:40:540:40:57

The sausages are local, the honey is local, the cheese is local.

0:40:570:41:01

It's really all about what Salisbury and Wiltshire say to me through you.

0:41:010:41:06

-Is that...?

-Absolutely perfect and I can't wait.

0:41:060:41:10

I love sausages so it's great that we're going to have sausages.

0:41:100:41:13

-Oh...

-Oh, that looks OK.

0:41:140:41:16

-That doesn't look bad at all.

-It's good.

-Oh, it's bubbling!

0:41:160:41:19

-Yes, you're surprised, aren't you?

-It's bubbling away.

0:41:190:41:21

-And look it's got some brown bits.

-Yes, excellent!

0:41:210:41:23

And it's nice to form a nice crust on top.

0:41:230:41:25

Now I'm just going to serve it up.

0:41:250:41:28

A nice bit of mash goes on the middle there.

0:41:290:41:32

-That looks good, does that.

-It looks very good.

0:41:320:41:34

And then we're going to take one...

0:41:340:41:36

Sausage?

0:41:370:41:39

Two. Do you fancy a third one?

0:41:390:41:41

-Yeah, go on.

-That's what I like to hear.

0:41:410:41:44

Be careful, it's nice and hot, is this.

0:41:440:41:47

And just put that over the top,

0:41:470:41:50

and I just love this fresh thyme.

0:41:500:41:54

It just makes it look...

0:41:550:41:57

Oh, look at that.

0:41:570:41:59

-There you are, sir.

-That's a good...

0:42:000:42:02

-Just for you.

-That's a good bit of Wiltshire.

0:42:020:42:04

My tribute to Biggins is a Wiltshire cassoulet

0:42:040:42:08

served with mashed potato.

0:42:080:42:10

Local pork sausages baked in a sauce of tomatoes

0:42:100:42:12

and chickpeas as a nod to that childhood favourite, beans on toast.

0:42:120:42:17

And there's a crunchy breadcrumb topping with some wonderful

0:42:170:42:20

Wiltshire Loaf cheese tossed through it.

0:42:200:42:23

I do hope he likes it.

0:42:240:42:26

Oh, this looks very good.

0:42:260:42:27

So what thinkest thou,

0:42:270:42:30

says he before...?

0:42:300:42:32

I'll tell you what, those sausages have got a lovely texture.

0:42:320:42:34

Mmm, and you can taste the honey.

0:42:350:42:38

-It is, it's quite sweet, isn't it?

-It's very nice.

-Mmm.

0:42:390:42:42

Local pigs, Wiltshire bacon, Wiltshire sausages

0:42:420:42:46

and, of course, mashed potato.

0:42:460:42:48

Yeah, mash is great.

0:42:480:42:51

Of course when your gran made it, to go with tomato soup,

0:42:510:42:54

she wouldn't have had lots of butter in there,

0:42:540:42:57

it would be margarine, wouldn't it? No cream in there.

0:42:570:42:59

-That's got a few extras in there.

-Mmm, it's very good.

0:42:590:43:02

Excellent, well done, I've really enjoyed that.

0:43:020:43:04

Thank you, that's very kind. I hope you've enjoyed the day looking around Salisbury.

0:43:040:43:08

-I have.

-It brings back a few memories.

-Yeah, absolutely.

0:43:080:43:10

-But life must go on.

-Absolutely, it's great.

0:43:100:43:13

-Thank you, sir.

-Thank you!

0:43:130:43:15

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