Arlene Phillips My Life on a Plate


Arlene Phillips

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For everyone, there's a taste of food

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or a smell of cooking that zooms you right back to childhood.

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It's just like my mum's cake!

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I'm Brian Turner...

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It reminds me of someone I used to know at school.

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..and I'm going to stir up the food memories

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of some much-loved celebrities...

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Oh!

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Look at that!

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..going back to their early days before they were famous...

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Oh, my gosh.

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..with recollections of Sunday roasts and school dinners...

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It's time for something to eat. Brilliant.

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..and celebrating food their home regions are proud of.

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Which way would you like to go?

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Er, this way.

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I'll recreate a nostalgic family favourite...

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Mm, you can't beat a crumble.

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..and a tribute dish that puts my guest's life on a plate!

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Magic, magic.

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Today, choreographer Arlene Phillips returns

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to the Manchester area where she grew up.

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50 years ago, almost.

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Forever ago. It's more.

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Forever ago.

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Revisiting her childhood home brings back great sadness.

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It's quite hard actually, because my mother was so ill,

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and all these places have memories of her.

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And a visit to her primary school

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reminds her of blazing her own trail from a young age.

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Under my very stark, miserable uniform,

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I wore a red net petticoat.

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And in my outdoor kitchen, I'll be creating special treats...

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I want the recipe now.

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..that take Arlene straight back to those early days...

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That was the fish that we ate.

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..in a mouthful!

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Best flavour ever!

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Aren't you wonderful?

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One of Arlene's happiest childhood memories is the family picnic,

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getting up early with her mum, brother and sister to prepare,

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before the 20-minute walk to their local park.

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Arlene was born north of Manchester in Prestwich,

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but the family moved south to Didsbury

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when she was about eight years old.

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Dad worked hard as a barber,

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so family time on those picnics must have been precious.

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We're taking Arlene back to her favourite park

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to find out what she remembers,

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as I start to build up ideas for a recipe based on her childhood

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and home life, with inspiration from this part of Britain.

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I want to create a special dish that pays tribute to her.

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When were you here last?

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Um...she whispers, 60 years ago!

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No! Yup, truly, and it has grown old like me.

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It's incredible how much it has grown.

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What a great place this is.

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Isn't it beautiful?

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Just look at all that greenery, it's fantastic.

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My father was somebody who insisted that every Sunday,

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you've got to get out, you've got to walk,

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find somewhere lovely, maybe with a little museum,

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and this was one of our favourite places. Right.

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Although my sister and I used to come here together

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and I was maybe 12 and she was 10.

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And we would walk for miles and come here and bring our own picnic.

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The ten acres of Fletcher Moss Park and Gardens

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were donated to the city of Manchester in 1914.

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We've prepared a picnic just like the ones Arlene used to have,

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with one or two surprises in store.

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So, what kind of things did you have when you were at picnics?

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Do you remember?

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Well, at the picnics, tomatoes, because my parents always thought

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if you're going to spend money on food,

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it's worthwhile spending money on things like tomatoes.

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Celery with cream cheese put in like a boat, because it was fun to eat.

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So we'd have our celery boats,

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and actually my children have continued in that tradition.

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We always had potatoes in salad cream. Always.

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Salad cream, not mayonnaise?

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No, not mayonnaise. No, salad cream.

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The biggest, biggest treat was dandelion and burdock.

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Well, why don't we pour that whilst you just...

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Were your parents sticklers about food at all?

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Did you have lots of money to spend on food?

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No. We had little money to spend on food,

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so the things I didn't have were things like...

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Quality Street chocolates.

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I dreamed of them because, as far as my parents were concerned,

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you didn't need Quality Street, but you did need an apple.

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I would have thought one apple was worth five of those chocolates.

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Yeah, but it was dull, an apple,

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compared to all the different flavours.

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When was it that you fell in love with dancing?

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Were you always a dancer,

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and when did you know you were going to be a dancer?

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I was told I was always dancing, you know,

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as soon as I could walk, or in my pram, to music.

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My father and mother loved the ballet,

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and one thing they would endeavour to do was to take us to the ballet,

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but, by the age of eight,

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I knew that was what I wanted to do.

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So did you actually get into ballet itself?

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Because we don't recognise you as a ballet dancer.

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No, that's what I studied until the age of 16,

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when I went to a full-time four-year course

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to become a dancer in Manchester.

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We did ballroom, we did Latin, we did modern.

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Did you do tap dancing? I did do tap.

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I love watching tap. Love that. Yeah!

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And the rest is history.

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I don't know about you, but Strictly Come Dancing

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is one of my guilty pleasures,

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and Arlene was a brilliantly incisive judge.

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One of the most soul-tingling waltzes

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we have ever seen on Strictly.

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She moved to London in the very early 1960s,

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and, thanks to baby-sitting for director Ridley Scott,

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got her lucky break, choreographing commercials for him.

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International stardom followed

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with the creation of the dance group Hot Gossip in the 1970s.

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She choreographed hugely successful West End and Broadway musicals,

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like Starlight Express and Saturday Night Fever,

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music videos with stars such as Sir Elton John,

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TV shows, and feature films like Annie.

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All that from humble beginnings in a Jewish family in Manchester.

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As a child, were you a picky eater, or was it...

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Certainly when I grew up it was, "There it is, eat it,

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"because there is nothing else."

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Absolutely. You couldn't be picky, you weren't allowed to be picky,

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you had to eat what was on your plate.

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And my grandmother's house, which was across the road,

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there were always people coming in and coming out.

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Families, gatherings, Friday nights, Sunday lunches.

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With my family, there would be tea -

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we didn't have dinner in the evening, there would be tea,

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which would be lettuce, tomatoes,

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cucumber, fish paste!

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Was your mum a good cook?

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My mum was a fantastic cook, and the best baker in the world.

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Really? Oh, yes. She could have been Mary Berry.

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Cakes were woven through with different colours.

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We always got those on our birthday.

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I do have one other little thing for you. You do?

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This is...

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Oh!

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Our attempt. It's not your birthday, is it?

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That is just like...

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Your mum.

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My mum's cakes.

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So beautiful.

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Have a little taste.

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You bet.

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Mmm!

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Is that OK?

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It's absolutely delicious.

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You can be as honest as you like. Oh, my gosh.

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It's iced beautifully.

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Not decorated, but iced.

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That's OK. Yeah, it's flavour that counts.

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But the flavour is...

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Watch me eat my way through this!

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So, just going back to those days then when you were at home,

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did you eat all kosher food?

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Yeah, kosher food.

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And so fairly strict guidelines as to what you could

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and couldn't eat? Oh, yes, yeah.

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That's the way we lived, we never thought anything about it.

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Absolutely. Never thought anything more.

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How would you describe the kind of food that you had?

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Well, we had lots of chicken soup

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because my mother did a brilliant chicken soup,

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and of course roast chicken.

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We also ate a lot of smoked salmon

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because we lived round the corner from a shop called Titanic's,

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and we would go down there,

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and they would have bags, what they called salmon pieces.

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They're all the pieces that nobody wanted

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because they liked fine-sliced.

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So we would buy the salmon pieces.

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Arlene's memories of food shopping evoke fascinating images

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of those old specialist shops.

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She's talking about an area in north Manchester

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where I'm meeting up with local food writer Clarissa Hyman

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in a Prestwich bakery to find out more.

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There was a small community here in the 18th/19th centuries.

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They were Sephardic Jews engaged in the textile industry.

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But the big wave of immigrants came at the end of the 19th,

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early 20th centuries,

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and a lot of Jewish people came from eastern Europe.

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I assume they came here because there were already some people here

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and it's just grown and grown and grown.

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Exactly. People do want to be with people that they share

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things in common with, being near family.

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In North Manchester, we're probably all related.

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One of the many things they say, of course,

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is that the Jewish community congregates round the table.

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They are really big into their food.

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Absolutely. Food is very, very important in Jewish life

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and in Jewish tradition.

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I always think, you know,

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when you are dispersed and when you have to travel across the world,

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because of war and famine and poverty or whatever,

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persecution, food is one thing you take with you.

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It's very potent, it's very nostalgic.

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The community continued to grow here due to the Russian revolution

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and the two world wars,

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and now has the UK's biggest Jewish population outside London.

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Keeping it quite simple,

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Jewish food and kosher food do have their differentials.

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Yes, there is a distinction between Jewish food and kosher food.

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Kosher food, essentially, is food which has been prepared

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according to the dietary laws, under religious supervision.

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But you can have kosher pizza, you can have kosher curries,

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you can have kosher Chinese food.

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Oh, right.

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Jewish food on the whole

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is Jewish food which relates to a particular ethnic tradition,

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or a particular community, or is eaten at a certain time,

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maybe for the Sabbath or for the festivals.

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So, Jewish food we commonly think of as, say, chicken soup,

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or chopped liver, or here, bagels.

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The roll with the hole.

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Yes, of course.

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Funnily enough, you can have kosher bagels,

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and you can have non-kosher bagels because they have been

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prepared without any supervision or religiously approved ingredients.

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Arlene mentioned a shop called Titanic's,

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which is still a bit of an institution around here.

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It was founded by Joseph Hyman,

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who was a third-class passenger on the Titanic when it sank in 1912.

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Lucky to survive,

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he went on to New York where he came across the delicatessen concept.

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He didn't settle there, and returned to Prestwich a year later,

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and founded this family deli business,

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where his great-grandson Richard is now in charge.

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Clarissa, who is Richard's cousin,

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has brought me along for a gourmet tasting session.

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We've got chopped liver, which is the quintessential start

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to any Friday night Shabbat dinner, or Sabbath dinner.

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If you don't have it at the beginning of your Friday night,

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then there's something wrong, really.

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But there's nothing like the real thing.

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Absolutely, and this is a traditional recipe

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where it is literally the liver, egg, onion...

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..and seasoning.

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In reality, it's a pate, but a bit coarser.

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Correct, yes.

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But it's got a lovely balance, I have to say.

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I'm sort of quite surprised.

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I don't mean to be rude, but it's got a really nice balance to it.

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This place has a fantastic array of ready meals and ingredients,

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and everything is kosher.

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And the next starter is traditional soup?

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Correct, chicken soup. Lovely, so we've got some there.

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Jewish penicillin, as it's also called. Is that what it is? It is.

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Tell me about these dumplings. Are they dumplings?

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They're not dumplings, they are called matzo balls or kneydl.

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Well, they are kind of a descendent of the dumpling.

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Some people like them very firm and solid,

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and some people like them soft and fluffy.

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Everybody does their chicken soup differently.

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I'm not quite sure whose is best,

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whose isn't best,

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and I'm certainly not going to say it on camera.

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Your mother's. You'll get into trouble!

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Interesting for me is, there's bags of fat on it.

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There is. It should shimmer.

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Right, well, I can see that. But it's not greasy.

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No, it's not, but you can see lots of fat on it.

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You can taste it, but it's not greasy.

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If you'd not told me that they could be soft and airy,

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I would accept that and say that's fine. So what goes in there?

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That is matzo meal, a little bit of baking powder,

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salt and pepper,

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and an egg.

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Oh, right.

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Now, that looks a fantastic piece of meat.

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That is your traditional salt beef.

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So it's a piece of brisket that has been pickled for about ten days,

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and then cooked in simmering water for two and half, three hours,

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depending on the size of it, with some seasoning.

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I love this, it's absolutely moist and delicious,

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and it's got some fat in it as well.

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Absolutely. My grandmother would turn over in her grave

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if I didn't have fat on it.

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What people don't realise is that animal fat

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is what gives a lot of our meats flavour,

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and yet they trim it all off and get rid of it.

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It's a sacrilege.

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That is delicious. Thank you very much. Thank you.

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Now that was a revelation to me,

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and I can see why, even 50-odd years ago,

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Arlene's Mum was a big fan of this deli.

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It's given me some ideas for the dish I'm going to make

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as a tribute to Arlene.

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I'm beginning to get a sense of a happy fusion

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between the traditions of her background,

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and the cuisine of modern Britain.

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To help jog more of those childhood memories,

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we've brought Arlene back to her old primary school in Didsbury.

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I was eight when I came here.

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You'd been to another school previously?

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Yes, that's when we moved from North Manchester to Didsbury.

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I'm very curious to see inside,

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if the central green is there, where we did skipping competitions.

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Oh, really?

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Every morning, yeah.

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You go in there, have a little wander round, see what you think.

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I'm going to cook a little nostalgic dish for you.

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How lovely. So off you go, there's the door.

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We've set up the outdoor kitchen in the playground,

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and I'm going to make a dish based on something

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I think Arlene's Mum would have made for her as a child.

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What I've decided to do is make a pickled fish.

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Now this is my style of pickled fish

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and I really hope it's going to tickle her palate.

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I've got some wonderful hake here,

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but the first thing I'm going to do, I'm going to make a cucumber salad

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to go with it, but a pickled cucumber salad.

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Firstly, big cucumbers, we'll just take off the peel.

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We don't really want that.

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So get rid of that.

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Going to chop this in half here.

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And then, using the same peeler,

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I'm just going to very carefully get some slices of cucumber.

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Just nice and thin, just till you can start to see the seeds.

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The seeds just make it a little bit watery.

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The great thing about this method of pickling

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is it's very quick, and it's really your recipe.

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It's almost guessology.

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About four tablespoons of cider vinegar.

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One, two, thee, four.

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Enough.

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A teaspoon of local honey.

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Not too sweet.

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A wee bit of salt.

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It smells great already, that vinegar smell.

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Just separate all the bits of cucumber

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and just let that sit there for about 20 minutes,

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just put it out of the way.

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Six decades have passed since Arlene walked these corridors.

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It was a different world then.

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Wow, this looks so, so different.

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The school is definitely far more child-friendly then when I was here.

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It was strict, it was severe, I wasn't happy.

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I hated being told off by the teachers,

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and look, they've got beautiful boards and cute lockers.

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I think I would have fun if I was here now.

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This is completely different.

0:17:560:17:59

Out here it was just green and we used to go out,

0:18:000:18:06

almost every day,

0:18:060:18:08

when the grass was dry,

0:18:080:18:09

and do skip rope competitions, who could stay skipping the longest.

0:18:090:18:14

And I always thought from being young,

0:18:140:18:17

it kept kids fit and the mind active.

0:18:170:18:23

But this is so different.

0:18:230:18:25

We're going to serve this lovely hake...

0:18:330:18:35

Hake's a fish not a lot of people use, but in those days,

0:18:350:18:39

I think Arlene's mum used to buy hake locally.

0:18:390:18:42

I've got these lovely bits here, filleted, bones out,

0:18:420:18:45

no skin on it,

0:18:450:18:46

and I cut it into six pieces.

0:18:460:18:48

These are almost fish fingers.

0:18:500:18:52

Nice hot pan, so now we dust it with flour,

0:18:530:18:57

and into the pan.

0:18:570:19:00

Skin side upwards.

0:19:020:19:03

We need to just slice the onions.

0:19:080:19:10

So now very carefully with the fish, just to make sure,

0:19:140:19:17

you mustn't overcook this hake,

0:19:170:19:19

just get a really nice colour.

0:19:190:19:23

Lovely.

0:19:240:19:26

Arlene had a tough time at school

0:19:310:19:37

When I was here, there was no uniform.

0:19:380:19:41

When I went on to Manchester Central High School for Girls

0:19:410:19:46

we had a strict uniform rule -

0:19:460:19:50

look as ugly as possible.

0:19:500:19:52

Either cut your hair short, or plaits, or tie it back.

0:19:520:19:57

No freedom in hair, that's for sure.

0:19:570:20:00

No styles.

0:20:000:20:02

I got in trouble all the time

0:20:020:20:04

because, under my very stark, miserable uniform,

0:20:040:20:11

and woe betide if it ever was sticking out.

0:20:110:20:15

Straight to the headmistress's office.

0:20:150:20:18

I was there on a regular basis.

0:20:180:20:25

This is exactly the same, nothing has changed here.

0:20:320:20:35

My school, though, was absolutely no dancing.

0:20:350:20:40

That's why I didn't want to be here.

0:20:400:20:43

We did drama, we did little plays, not a lot, really.

0:20:430:20:48

It was very much about what I called old-fashioned education.

0:20:480:20:52

Sit on your chair and learn.

0:20:520:20:54

And I think I would have been a lot happier had I had music,

0:20:550:21:00

had drama and dance,

0:21:000:21:02

and ways of being able to explore learning through different methods.

0:21:020:21:09

But it was sitting down,

0:21:090:21:12

being judged on everything you did.

0:21:120:21:16

From the moment I first went to dance school, I felt alive,

0:21:180:21:24

I felt there was a purpose in my life,

0:21:240:21:28

even though I was quite young,

0:21:280:21:30

I lived to dance.

0:21:300:21:32

It stirred something inside me.

0:21:320:21:34

Nothing else could make me feel that way.

0:21:340:21:38

It's where my ambition began

0:21:400:21:42

and my drive began,

0:21:420:21:46

and my passion began.

0:21:460:21:49

I read every single dance book you could possibly read,

0:21:500:21:55

both fiction and non-fiction.

0:21:550:21:58

I soaked myself in dance.

0:21:580:22:01

I educated myself through dance.

0:22:010:22:03

I want my dish to take Arlene back to good times

0:22:060:22:09

and her mother's cooking at home in Didsbury.

0:22:090:22:12

So far, I've made a pickled cucumber salad,

0:22:130:22:16

and lightly cooked small fillets of hake ready to pickle.

0:22:160:22:19

And over here, I've got the start of my pickling liquor.

0:22:210:22:24

I've got lots of onions in there, I've got some malt vinegar.

0:22:240:22:28

I'm going to put some water in here.

0:22:280:22:30

Just bring this to the boil.

0:22:330:22:34

Sugar.

0:22:340:22:35

You can use whatever measurements you like.

0:22:380:22:41

I've got some curry powder.

0:22:410:22:42

Oh, my goodness.

0:22:420:22:43

I'm going to put curry powder in there. You may not have had that.

0:22:430:22:46

No, definitely not.

0:22:460:22:48

And then a bit of turmeric.

0:22:480:22:49

Don't remember turmeric.

0:22:490:22:51

A few peppercorns.

0:22:510:22:53

There was always pepper, but it was brown, not black.

0:22:540:22:57

Right. And some bay leaves - you see it's changed colour already

0:22:570:23:00

and that will help to colour and flavour the fish.

0:23:000:23:03

Mmm, the smell now.

0:23:030:23:05

So, whilst that's happening, over here,

0:23:050:23:08

I've taken some strips of cucumber,

0:23:080:23:11

and I've shredded them with a potato peeler. Yeah.

0:23:110:23:13

I've put that into some vinegar, some cider vinegar, and some honey.

0:23:130:23:18

Oh! I've got to smell it, it's quite good for you, is that.

0:23:180:23:24

Oh, that's what my mother used to make.

0:23:240:23:27

Oh, wonderful, that's good.

0:23:270:23:28

A bit of pepper in there, and I'm going to put a bit of parsley in

0:23:280:23:31

because I think it wants a bit of colour. Yeah.

0:23:310:23:34

So, we've got some fresh parsley.

0:23:340:23:35

Just chopped at the last minute.

0:23:350:23:37

Doesn't need to be too fine.

0:23:380:23:40

Fearless with that knife.

0:23:400:23:42

And just put that in there.

0:23:420:23:45

My mother used to do her pickled cucumbers,

0:23:450:23:48

and we used to put them in jars.

0:23:480:23:50

Right. That's what people don't... Store them. Exactly!

0:23:500:23:53

They don't do that these days.

0:23:530:23:55

Buy lots of them at a good price and then pickle them for the future.

0:23:550:23:58

We should do that with lots of fruits as well. Yeah.

0:23:580:24:00

Just want you to smell that.

0:24:000:24:02

Mmm.

0:24:020:24:03

Doesn't it smell good?

0:24:030:24:05

Oh, it smells...

0:24:050:24:06

It's the mixture of the vinegar and the curry and the turmeric

0:24:060:24:09

that gives it that wonderful smell.

0:24:090:24:11

It is. So then we take our fish here, just very carefully,

0:24:110:24:14

and I haven't overcooked it, I've kept it marginally underdone,

0:24:140:24:18

but it's sat there for a few minutes, like that.

0:24:180:24:21

I don't know about you, I'm beginning to salivate already.

0:24:210:24:24

I love fish.

0:24:240:24:25

That's good to hear.

0:24:250:24:27

Sustainable?

0:24:270:24:28

Absolutely.

0:24:280:24:30

After about an hour, you could eat this and it would be lovely,

0:24:300:24:33

but I think you need to let it rest for about two days,

0:24:330:24:36

so I've got one here, look, just see, look, the changing colour.

0:24:360:24:39

Yes. That's purely from age, is that.

0:24:390:24:42

And this is one I made earlier?

0:24:420:24:43

You've always wanted to say that!

0:24:430:24:46

I love these little gem lettuces,

0:24:460:24:48

just going to cut them nicely in quarters through the root

0:24:480:24:52

and that just gives us that little bit of prettiness on the dishes.

0:24:520:24:56

Just look at that and now we find a couple of nice bits of fish.

0:24:560:25:01

There it is, just look at that.

0:25:010:25:03

It's buried treasure. Mmm!

0:25:030:25:04

Just smell that now.

0:25:040:25:06

Oh, that is divine.

0:25:060:25:08

You will have noticed that I've done that exactly to match your sweater.

0:25:080:25:11

I know! Well, I dressed for this, actually.

0:25:110:25:14

I always like to match the food in case I spill any on me!

0:25:140:25:19

It's a good excuse.

0:25:190:25:21

This is exciting.

0:25:210:25:23

So, there it is, and I'm just going to take a little bit of the salad.

0:25:230:25:26

Oh, yes. That looks amazing.

0:25:260:25:28

Cucumber, nice and refreshing. Yes.

0:25:280:25:30

That just sits on top there.

0:25:300:25:33

How fabulous.

0:25:330:25:35

And there we have it, my nostalgia dish for Arlene,

0:25:360:25:40

representing the kind of food her mother made for the family.

0:25:400:25:43

Pickled fish with a pickled cucumber salad.

0:25:430:25:46

I can't wait to taste this fish.

0:25:480:25:50

Mmm, best flavour ever.

0:25:530:25:55

Oh, aren't you wonderful?

0:25:550:25:57

I tell you, this is divine

0:25:570:25:59

and I will be making it, and I want the recipe now!

0:25:590:26:03

Arlene remembers her mum baking wonderful cakes,

0:26:100:26:13

which got me thinking about the British baking revival,

0:26:130:26:16

and what's been happening in Manchester.

0:26:160:26:19

There's a family-run bakery in Failsworth

0:26:200:26:22

that's been going for 150 years,

0:26:220:26:25

and they've revived a local baking favourite.

0:26:250:26:27

Seventh generation Grace Robinson recently took over from her dad Dave

0:26:270:26:32

as head baker.

0:26:320:26:33

Everything I know I've been taught from my dad,

0:26:330:26:36

literally in the workplace.

0:26:360:26:38

I've not been taught by someone out of a book.

0:26:380:26:41

I've been taught by my dad.

0:26:410:26:42

Working through experience,

0:26:420:26:44

and learning everything that he's been taught.

0:26:440:26:46

Got your bran muffins here, Sue.

0:26:460:26:49

I've been in and out of the bakery since I was 12.

0:26:520:26:55

I've always loved being part of the family bakery.

0:26:550:26:59

Since 1864, recipes have been handed down through the generations.

0:26:590:27:04

The business went from strength to strength and, by 1926,

0:27:050:27:08

the family team looked like this.

0:27:080:27:11

Despite the invention of supermarkets

0:27:140:27:16

and mass-produced breads and pastries,

0:27:160:27:19

they've stayed ahead of the curve,

0:27:190:27:21

making 250 different products themselves.

0:27:210:27:24

The one I'm interested in is the Manchester tart,

0:27:260:27:29

and what a treat of a sweet little tart it is!

0:27:290:27:32

Yeah, all my friends love 'em.

0:27:320:27:34

We get a lot of people who don't even know what they are,

0:27:340:27:36

so for us to make them, it gives us a unique selling point.

0:27:360:27:40

Dad Dave is ever the old pro.

0:27:510:27:53

I suppose it looks relatively easy

0:27:530:27:56

but that's because we have had a lot of practice.

0:27:560:28:00

When you're doing something every day,

0:28:000:28:02

it becomes a natural thing to do.

0:28:020:28:05

They make 200 Manchester tarts a week,

0:28:090:28:12

but have been known to sell 500 in a day in the run up to Christmas.

0:28:120:28:16

Yet, it's almost by accident that the tart made a comeback.

0:28:160:28:20

There was a festival being held in Manchester city centre,

0:28:200:28:24

and somebody asked us to make some Manchester tarts

0:28:240:28:26

for the festival, and they were very successful.

0:28:260:28:31

Since then we've been making Manchester tarts.

0:28:310:28:34

It's one of those products that has been revitalised,

0:28:340:28:37

even though really it was a school dinners item,

0:28:370:28:40

and that's what everyone mentions when they come to the stall -

0:28:400:28:43

"Oh, I've not had one of these since I was at school!"

0:28:430:28:46

Dave masterminded the revival, and finessed a recipe.

0:28:460:28:50

A Manchester tart is a sweet short-crust base.

0:28:500:28:54

We then put raspberry jam in it.

0:28:540:28:57

We put a cold vanilla custard on top of that.

0:28:580:29:00

We sprinkle it with toasted coconut,

0:29:020:29:04

pipe some liquid fondant on the top of that,

0:29:040:29:07

and then a cherry in the middle.

0:29:070:29:08

It's quite simple, but it's very tasty.

0:29:080:29:11

And, for younger generations, with no school dinner memories,

0:29:130:29:16

it's a brand-new idea!

0:29:160:29:17

I've never tried a Manchester tart, but I've just bought one,

0:29:200:29:23

so I'm looking forward to actually trying it for the first time.

0:29:230:29:26

Yeah, I'm just going to go for it.

0:29:260:29:28

I could die today and I would be quite happy.

0:29:320:29:35

Yeah, it's good.

0:29:350:29:39

Back in Didsbury, we're taking Arlene to the street where

0:29:390:29:42

she used to live, to see what's changed and what she remembers.

0:29:420:29:46

Well, this was my dad's barber shop

0:29:470:29:50

and we used to live at the back of the shop and upstairs.

0:29:500:29:55

That wasn't there, that shed.

0:29:550:29:57

That was our side entrance to the back door,

0:29:570:30:00

but we always used the shop front door.

0:30:000:30:02

You mean you went into the barber shop, whilst your dad was working?

0:30:020:30:06

Yeah, always ran through. Straight through.

0:30:060:30:09

Where did you play when you were a child? Did you play out here?

0:30:090:30:12

On this forecourt, or in the garden at the back.

0:30:120:30:15

If it was raining, we'd skip in the rain

0:30:150:30:17

and pretend we were singing in the rain.

0:30:170:30:20

Oh, lovely!

0:30:200:30:21

And in the back garden.

0:30:210:30:24

Why don't we go in and have a look?

0:30:240:30:25

It's going to be strange. Let's do it.

0:30:250:30:27

Go on, you can do this.

0:30:270:30:28

So what does it feel like?

0:30:320:30:34

It wouldn't have been that colour, I don't suppose. No, it wasn't orange.

0:30:340:30:38

We left before the '60s.

0:30:380:30:40

It's quite a while ago.

0:30:400:30:43

Yeah, I think we left in 1958.

0:30:430:30:46

Good lord, that's 50 years ago.

0:30:460:30:48

Forever ago.

0:30:480:30:49

I think this wall was here and there was a door and we lived,

0:30:490:30:53

our living room and our kitchen were there, were just back there.

0:30:530:31:03

and there was a desk here,

0:31:030:31:07

and I used to work on the till.

0:31:070:31:15

The brushes, where you brush everybody down,

0:31:150:31:23

the electric clippers,

0:31:230:31:25

the hair dryers,

0:31:250:31:27

the little brushes to brush off,

0:31:270:31:29

and only men came in, and they used to come in for hot towels.

0:31:290:31:33

Do you feel all right?

0:31:340:31:36

I feel all right. It feels strange.

0:31:360:31:40

I thought going back in time is going to be amazing,

0:31:400:31:42

but actually it's very strange.

0:31:420:31:45

Well, why don't you go upstairs and have a look,

0:31:450:31:48

and see what memories that brings back?

0:31:480:31:51

I'm going next door and I'm going to cook a tribute dish just for you.

0:31:510:31:54

I think I'm going to need it!

0:31:540:31:57

Arlene's old garden is no more,

0:31:590:32:01

so I've set up next door, where her friend Jane used to live.

0:32:010:32:05

with a nod to her Jewish roots.

0:32:100:32:12

I'm kicking off by making pastry.

0:32:120:32:15

Flour's in the bowl here, and I've got some cold butter.

0:32:150:32:18

I shall put that in...

0:32:200:32:21

..with a pinch of salt.

0:32:220:32:24

Then just rub that together until we get the consistency of sand,

0:32:260:32:31

of breadcrumbs,

0:32:310:32:36

as cold as you can get it works well,

0:32:360:32:38

just to pull the whole thing together into a dough.

0:32:380:32:41

You'll be able to tell if you've got enough in there

0:32:430:32:46

if it all comes together, as it's doing now.

0:32:460:32:50

Don't overwork it, and we'll just take that out to a nice shape,

0:32:500:32:55

wrap it in Clingfilm,

0:32:550:32:57

I'll put it back in the bowl and put it in the fridge

0:32:570:32:59

and leave it for about half an hour.

0:32:590:33:01

I've fried a large sliced onion,

0:33:020:33:04

and I've boiled thin slices of three large potatoes in salted water

0:33:040:33:09

until they're just cooked, but no more.

0:33:090:33:11

And then we've got this wonderful corned beef.

0:33:110:33:15

I love corned beef, and I really hope that Arlene does.

0:33:150:33:19

We'll cut this into slices.

0:33:190:33:21

Don't be tempted to eat it,

0:33:210:33:25

says he to himself!

0:33:250:33:26

Arlene's old home, behind and above the barber's shop,

0:33:280:33:32

has been split into flats, so the layout is unfamiliar.

0:33:320:33:35

Well, this is so weird because I have no clue where I am.

0:33:370:33:42

I used to come through the barber shop,

0:33:430:33:47

and below this asphalt roof

0:33:470:33:50

was our living room, and our garden.

0:33:500:33:54

Gone!

0:33:540:33:56

Oh, my gosh, I've just got my bearings.

0:33:580:34:00

And this is strange.

0:34:030:34:05

Um...

0:34:050:34:06

This was my brother's bedroom.

0:34:090:34:11

And this was my bedroom, where I had a little bed,

0:34:140:34:20

and by my bed I had a ballerina lamp with a beautiful pink shade on,

0:34:200:34:26

and one day I woke up,

0:34:260:34:28

wasn't feeling very well,

0:34:280:34:31

and I put my hand out,

0:34:310:34:33

and I realised that I'd put it right on the top of the lamp

0:34:330:34:38

and I had left the lamp on,

0:34:380:34:40

and I can remember my hand sizzling to this day!

0:34:400:34:45

Happened right in this room.

0:34:450:34:48

It was while she lived here that Arlene's mum developed leukaemia.

0:34:500:34:55

Oh, my goodness!

0:34:550:34:57

I used to think this room was huge, this was my parents bedroom,

0:34:580:35:03

and it felt vast.

0:35:030:35:04

And...it isn't vast!

0:35:060:35:09

It's really, really strange being here.

0:35:100:35:12

It was lovely when the fire was lit,

0:35:140:35:17

and whichever of us were in, you know, bed with my mum or my dad,

0:35:170:35:23

and the flickering would be fabulous on the ceiling,

0:35:230:35:28

gentle, gentle shadows.

0:35:280:35:31

It's quite hard, actually.

0:35:340:35:36

Because my mother was so ill,

0:35:380:35:41

and all these places have memories of her.

0:35:410:35:45

There are lots and lots of really happy memories

0:35:500:35:53

and other memories of sadness,

0:35:530:35:57

because a lot of sadness went on in my life in this room,

0:35:570:36:03

in that bathroom,

0:36:030:36:06

you know, taking care of my mother.

0:36:060:36:08

And I guess, we moved after she died,

0:36:110:36:15

I think to escape all those memories.

0:36:150:36:18

And then my sister had this little bedroom,

0:36:220:36:25

just off their bedroom, which is now the kitchen.

0:36:250:36:29

And a lot of things happened...

0:36:310:36:33

..after my mother was very ill.

0:36:350:36:37

And my mother passed away.

0:36:390:36:41

My father then became ill.

0:36:440:36:46

There were three children,

0:36:470:36:50

you know, 13, 15, 17, trying to make life go on.

0:36:500:36:55

It wasn't easy,

0:36:590:37:01

and I think sometimes you tend to block those things

0:37:010:37:04

out of your mind, and so I'm searching for the good times

0:37:040:37:08

because I know there were good times.

0:37:080:37:10

I hope my tribute dish for Arlene will celebrate

0:37:170:37:20

her fascinating past, present and future.

0:37:200:37:23

To make my butter pie, I've lined a baking dish

0:37:240:37:27

with two thirds of my pastry,

0:37:270:37:29

and assembled with layers of fried onion,

0:37:290:37:31

slices of boiled potato and corned beef,

0:37:310:37:34

and dotted with nobs of butter.

0:37:340:37:36

I roll out the final third of pastry for the lid,

0:37:380:37:41

tidy the edges and use egg wash to glue the pastry together,

0:37:410:37:45

also brushing over the top.

0:37:450:37:47

Then into a medium oven for 30-35 minutes.

0:37:480:37:52

Let me show you what I've done for you so far. Yeah, go on.

0:37:530:37:56

We've made what they call a butter pie

0:37:560:37:59

and it's a big part of Manchester speciality.

0:37:590:38:03

Right.

0:38:030:38:04

Oh!

0:38:040:38:05

Don't touch it, it's hot. I won't.

0:38:050:38:08

We'll just let it sit for a minute. It's been in for about 35 minutes.

0:38:080:38:12

Well, we're going to do cabbage,

0:38:120:38:14

so we are just going to take these stalks out of the middle,

0:38:140:38:17

and then we'll just put this on.

0:38:170:38:20

And we'll put a little bit more butter in there.

0:38:220:38:24

Oh! Not a lot.

0:38:240:38:25

Well, they say now butter is good for you.

0:38:270:38:29

Take these cabbage leaves...

0:38:290:38:31

We'll do it in two lots.

0:38:320:38:34

Roll them up as if you're making a cigar, but not on your thigh.

0:38:340:38:39

And here he goes.

0:38:390:38:40

Just shred it nice and finely.

0:38:440:38:46

You can get machines to do it these days, but...

0:38:460:38:48

With a man machine.

0:38:480:38:50

Yes, with a man machine. Get your man to do it.

0:38:500:38:53

So we sprinkle that in there.

0:38:530:38:54

The trouble with cabbage always used to be,

0:38:540:38:57

people took green cabbage and cooked it for too long,

0:38:570:39:00

so it became grey and horrible, do you remember?

0:39:000:39:03

Absolutely. That's why I disliked it so intensely.

0:39:030:39:06

Yes, I'm going to put a bit of water in there in a second

0:39:060:39:08

but it won't take long either, and it's very good for you

0:39:080:39:11

and I think cabbage is lovely when it's cooked,

0:39:110:39:14

a little bit stir-fry, like this.

0:39:140:39:16

So that goes...

0:39:160:39:17

Bit of salt. Yeah.

0:39:180:39:20

Bit of pepper. Yeah.

0:39:210:39:23

Just give it a bit of seasoning there,

0:39:230:39:25

and an extra little bit of magic here.

0:39:250:39:28

We've got some nutmeg.

0:39:280:39:30

Oh, my goodness.

0:39:310:39:32

Just put a bit in there to start with.

0:39:320:39:35

Oh, nutmeg.

0:39:350:39:37

I would never have thought of that.

0:39:370:39:39

And a drop of water.

0:39:390:39:40

So it sort of boils, steams and sautes in butter.

0:39:420:39:47

Look at the colour, that's what I like.

0:39:470:39:49

Yeah, yeah. And we're not going to cook it for very long.

0:39:490:39:52

Whilst that's happening, look, here's the trick,

0:39:520:39:55

now this is the thing. Gorgeous.

0:39:550:39:57

Just to make sure that it's actually...

0:39:570:39:59

It's all right, it's not sticking, that's what we like.

0:39:590:40:03

And if you're not sure, just quickly turn it over like that. Yeah.

0:40:030:40:08

Then... Look, and that's only the other side.

0:40:080:40:13

That goes on there.

0:40:130:40:15

That goes like that.

0:40:160:40:17

Conjuring with the dishes!

0:40:200:40:22

Butter pie. Oh, my gosh.

0:40:220:40:24

Now I'm going to serve you one portion on here. Yeah.

0:40:240:40:27

That's cabbage, that is, let's pop that in there.

0:40:280:40:31

Yeah, the nutmeg.

0:40:310:40:33

Lovely jubbly. Going to turn that off, it's ready already. Wow.

0:40:350:40:40

So, little trick here, I think,

0:40:400:40:41

and particularly now with rapeseed oil,

0:40:410:40:46

just sprinkle a bit on the top there.

0:40:460:40:48

With your finger, just give it a lovely shine.

0:40:500:40:54

Just makes it all look that little bit sweeter,

0:40:540:40:58

and what I'm going to do now, quickly,

0:40:580:41:00

I'm going to take a slice out of there. Yeah.

0:41:000:41:03

OK, so we're going to cut a slice.

0:41:030:41:05

That looks....

0:41:060:41:08

Look at the layers there, can you see that?

0:41:080:41:12

Yeah, yeah, yeah. Corned beef.

0:41:120:41:13

One tin.

0:41:130:41:14

We didn't waste anything, but that's northern for you!

0:41:140:41:18

Yeah, yeah. Do not waste.

0:41:180:41:21

So I'm going to do now...

0:41:210:41:23

Sometimes you can put this to drain but it's just a lovely colour,

0:41:230:41:27

it took us literally two minutes to produce that.

0:41:270:41:32

Very good for the family.

0:41:320:41:34

I love the way it's just browned around the edges, so cute as can be.

0:41:340:41:38

So there you are, dear lady, that is for you.

0:41:400:41:44

Butter pie and butter cabbage.

0:41:440:41:47

Butter pie and butter cabbage, it's a first.

0:41:470:41:52

A Lancashire Butter Pie wouldn't normally have any meat in it,

0:41:520:42:01

And I've switched the traditional pickled red cabbage

0:42:010:42:04

for buttered white cabbage with nutmeg,

0:42:040:42:07

as a less piquant mate on the plate.

0:42:070:42:09

Oh, I don't know where to start, and I need some crispy pie,

0:42:090:42:12

that's for sure. Yeah.

0:42:120:42:14

Wow, OK...

0:42:140:42:16

Mmm!

0:42:180:42:19

Mmm!

0:42:210:42:22

Wow!

0:42:240:42:25

Considering that is only potato, onion and corned beef,

0:42:250:42:29

I do think that tastes quite good.

0:42:290:42:31

Mm, it's good.

0:42:310:42:33

I think it's all the butter, but there is a sweetness to the pastry

0:42:330:42:38

that really kicks in when you eat it with the corned beef and the potato.

0:42:380:42:48

So overall, you've enjoyed the day?

0:42:480:42:51

Some parts of it were hard. Right.

0:42:510:42:53

You know, sometimes you go back in your memory and you go,

0:42:530:42:56

"I can't wait to remember all those great things!"

0:42:560:42:58

and then thoughts come of times that weren't so good.

0:42:580:43:02

But I've enjoyed it, and I've enjoyed the food.

0:43:020:43:05

And I've really enjoyed my day with you.

0:43:050:43:07

You are very sweet, thank you very much.

0:43:070:43:09

So here's to happy memories, one more time and there you go.

0:43:090:43:13

Yeah, come on, let's tuck in.

0:43:130:43:15

We are approaching one of the biggest decisions

0:43:530:43:55

this country will face in our lifetimes.

0:43:550:43:57

We need a change, we have to take a risk,

0:43:570:43:59

and I think it'll make it better.

0:43:590:44:00

No, leave things as they are, don't change anything,

0:44:000:44:03

it might make it worse. That's just scaremongering.

0:44:030:44:05

I'd hoped the debate might be more sensible.

0:44:050:44:07

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