Born and Bred Nigel Slater's Simple Cooking


Born and Bred

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I'm Nigel Slater.

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Being a good cook isn't about mastering difficult recipes.

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Sometimes the simplest combinations are the best.

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That's what this series is all about.

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Think soft and crisp, surf and turf

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or sugar and spice.

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So this is how I like my ribs.

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Very sweet and very spicy.

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'I'll be reinventing some of my favourite recipes, and trying out some new ones, too.'

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It's crisp and it's fresh and it's hot and it's cold and it's all sorts of things going on which I love.

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'And once you understand how ingredients work together, I hope you'll be inspired.'

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It's truly, truly gorgeous.

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'Today, it's all about combinations made by Mother Nature.'

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Flavours that belong together. They were born and bred to me on a plate at the same time.

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'Whether it's ingredients that share the landscape, or which are at their best in the same season,

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'what grows together, goes together.

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'So I want to explore born and bred at home in the kitchen and down on the farm.'

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A wonderful piece of meat.

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Ingredients tend to end up in recipes for different reasons.

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Sometimes it's because they come from the same part of the world maybe, so peppers, tomatoes.

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Things that grow in the same space, they share the same soil.

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It's like they were always meant to share a pot or a pan.

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Today, I'm making a gorgeous supper dish inspired by Mediterranean flavours.

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I'm going to roast some peppers and tomatoes and transform a simple plate of pasta.

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I'm using long sweet peppers.

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Take a slice off the side so they'll end up like little boats that will catch the juices as they roast.

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Next, some small tomatoes.

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I do like inventive cooking.

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The idea of exploring new tastes and new flavours.

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If something works, then I'm going to make the most of it.

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Alongside the tomatoes, chop up the leftover bits of pepper and add them, too.

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And I have to have garlic.

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The peppers and tomatoes get a thorough coating in olive oil.

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I want them to soften as they cook, but also I want the edges to be scorched and sweet.

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So that gets some salt. Season well and put into a hot oven.

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This dish is all about the Mediterranean flavours of peppers and tomatoes,

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so I want the herb that's born to go with them and that's basil. I'm making a quick and easy dressing.

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Just basil, salt and olive oil.

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You can just smell that basil filling the kitchen.

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I'm being I know it a little devil-may-care about where the basil dressing ends up,

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and it doesn't matter that it's going in the roasting tin.

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In fact, it's actually all to the good.

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I'm going to be serving the roasted Mediterranean vegetables with pasta.

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I'm going to put quite a bit of salt in there.

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There are some very clever people about.

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Somebody worked out that you can make pasta with little dips in it that will hold the sauce.

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Just brilliant.

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These are orecchiette.

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You could use any pasta with hollows, twists or curves which will catch the basil dressing.

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The peppers are really soft and luscious.

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They smell of basil and tomato and garlic.

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When the peppers and tomatoes are soft and just catching around the edges, put them to one side.

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Now in the roasting tin, I've got olive oil, I've got garlic,

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I got a little bit of basil and I'm not going to waste a tiny drop of that

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and all the wonderful sweet, sour sugary bits

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from the peppers that have stuck on to the pan will all come off into the pasta and flavour it.

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Just a few more leaves of basil.

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Flavours that belong together.

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They were born and bred to be on a plate at the same time.

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And there they are.

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Peppers, tomatoes, basil and olive oil

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and a little bit of pasta.

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Just a perfect, perfect unity.

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These roasted tomatoes and peppers would make a lovely light lunch on their own,

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but add them to a plate of pasta

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and they make something so simple yet so delicious.

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One of the things I love about my garden is picking the ripe fruit and veg.

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If nature's delivering things at the same time, we should take the hint.

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At the moment, two very different fruits are ready to eat...

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heavy juicy figs and tart sweet blackberries.

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It's not a traditional combination but as they've ripened to perfection

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at the same time, I think they'll make a perfect pairing for a pie too.

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I'm going to start by making the sweet shortcrust pastry.

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It's a little bit more than half butter to flour.

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I want it to be really crumbly and the more butter you put into that flour,

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the more soft and crumbly your pastry will be.

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You can do this in a food processor in seconds - press the button and you've got pastry -

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but on a rainy afternoon, I like to make it myself.

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For the best results it's important that everything's really cold.

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Fridge-cold butter and really cool hands.

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In fact, if it's a hot day, I'll just run my hands under the cold tap before I start

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so that the butter doesn't melt when I try to rub it into the flour.

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When the flour and butter feel like coarse breadcrumbs, add the sugar.

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I'm using icing sugar.

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To make it extra rich, use a couple of egg yolks.

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A little water will bring it all together.

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This is my idea of heaven,

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baking on a rainy afternoon.

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One of those wonderful warm kitchen moments.

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'Knead the pastry briefly and gently.'

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Then put it to rest in the fridge. It's really important because if you don't, it will shrink

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and when you take it out of the oven,

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you'll end up with pastry that's come away from the sides of the tin.

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Now for the filling.

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I've picked these figs at just the right moment.

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They're so ripe and juicy and they don't need peeling.

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I'm going to add some redcurrant jelly. Any fruit jam would do.

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Just warmed until it's runny.

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Next, the blackberries.

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There's something so lovely about putting perfectly ripe fruits into the same dish.

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To bring everything together, I'm adding some ground almonds.

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And that is my pie filling.

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Once the pastry's had a good 20 minutes in the fridge, it's time to put the pie together.

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I could roll the pastry out but when it's very high in butter, it's very fragile.

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It's sometimes easier not to actually roll it out but to just cut very

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fine discs of pastry and simply lay them round the tart tin, then push them into shape with your fingers.

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You can spend hours making pastry work look like something

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you buy from a shop, something incredibly professional and perfect but you know what, I like

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anything made of pastry to look a little bit wobbly and home-made.

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It's got a charm to it, it actually makes me want to eat it.

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Dot leftover pastry here and there.

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Any gaps will let the steam out.

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It's quite a deep pie so it will need a good hour in the oven.

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There are times for a piece of perfectly-formed French patisserie and there's time for pie.

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The only way I can improve that

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is with just a trickle of cream.

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I don't care if it's a novel combination - figs and blackberries

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were born to go together, and the proof is in the pudding.

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Tastes of blackberries from the hedge and figs from the tree.

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It's incredibly juicy and the pastry is really soft.

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If you think pastry is a bit daunting, this easy method could be just what you're after.

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Try matching any fruit that ripens at the same time.

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Just let your imagination run free.

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My search for the best that Mother Nature has to offer

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has brought me to a farm in Devon.

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We've been farming Dartmoor for generations, just back and back.

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We always have and probably what we always will do.

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It's just a great Dartmoor farm. Pretty bleak in the winter but great in summer.

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Brothers Matt and Neil Cole raise cattle and sheep that are born and bred on Dartmoor.

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Meat isn't just meat.

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Where it comes from can make all the difference to the flavour.

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And it's the grass these animals eat that makes their meat taste unique.

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The land up here is very high.

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The main farm's on about 450 feet.

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That means you get short summers, very long winters, hence the pastureland is quite poor.

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So we need traditional hardy breeds like the Galloway.

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Because they are tough, they can utilise the moorland grasses and herbage

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which gives them that unique flavour and taste.

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The taste you get, it's retained that piece of Dartmoor within its flavour.

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Neil and Matt have invited me to one of their farmyard barbeques.

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Rumps on first?

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We'll put some minute steaks on. These will be a bit quicker.

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'So that I can really taste the flavour of the meat, it's going straight on the grill as it is.'

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Because the traditional old fashioned English breeds will put on fat in the summer to get that marbling effect

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which helps keep them through the winter, that's when we cook it, it comes out in the meat.

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That will sizzle when it goes on the barbecue and that's the fat coming out

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of the meat, helping baste the meat, which makes it very tender and juicy.

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Look at that! Look at that!

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We get the flavour from the fat and at the end of it you won't

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get any fat, you get the meat which is a lot juicier and tastier.

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Got another plate? Taking these off?

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'They've got two cuts on the go.

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'There are the thick rump steaks

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'but I'm starting with a thin minute steak.'

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Try a slice of that.

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Isn't that juicy? Isn't that juicy?

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'Next, the rump.'

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Such good colour, isn't it?

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You go to the supermarket and it's that bright red, that's not as it should be,

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it should be that dark flavoursome colour, it's lovely.

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If you let the meat hang a few weeks in a chiller as it should be, how it used to be done,

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the meat will become more tasty.

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-That gives it a slightly darker look.

-Which of course will put the price up a little bit.

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Yeah. More cost.

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Wow. That must be nearly ready.

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I've always got a plate.

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Now I would let that sit

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for a couple of minutes to relax before I cut into it.

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Would you?

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Yes, as long as my family's not here because normally ...

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they would be grabbing it.

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Here they come.

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Looks nice anyway.

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This was mine! I thought that was going to disappear!

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Let me get some knives and forks.

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So much flavour there.

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They say the key to most barbecues is the sauce but we don't believe in sauces.

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-No.

-We don't need them.

-You don't need them.

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A wonderful piece of meat.

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Glad you enjoyed it.

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This is my kind of cooking. When something's this good, you don't even need a recipe.

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There's all sorts of reasons why ingredients work together.

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Sometimes it's because they evoke a certain time of year.

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With anything to do with mushrooms, it always makes me think of autumn.

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Earthy mushrooms always remind me of long walks in the woods which is

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why I think they are perfect stuffed with that other woodland offering... chestnuts.

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I start by preparing the mushrooms.

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I put a little butter in each cup and give them a good trickle of olive oil.

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Then some salt and pepper.

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You just want as much flavour in there as you possibly can.

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Because it should be delicious

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and not just a case to carry the stuffing.

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And I want herbs.

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Thyme works particularly well with mushrooms.

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I want these to be really, really juicy,

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so as well as the butter, I'm going to put a little bit of Madeira.

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Any warming fortified wine would do.

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Sherry, marsala or port, they all work with mushrooms.

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They soak up everything you throw at them,

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so you might as well throw something utterly delicious.

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And then they go in a good, hot oven for about 15, 20 minutes.

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Next, the stuffing.

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Finely chop a couple of small onions and fry them gently in some butter.

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I'm going to leave those with an occasional stir

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until they're soft and golden.

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Juicy baked mushrooms are incredibly versatile.

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Stuff them with spinach, couscous or cheese for a light vegetarian supper.

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But today, I'm making a hearty filling with sausage meat.

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Now, I can never find tasty sausage meat by the pound.

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So, I tend to buy

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my butcher's breakfast sausages

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and just take the skins off.

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It takes seconds.

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I end up with sausage meat that I know is really delicious.

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When the onions are soft and golden,

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add woody herbs like thyme and rosemary.

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The mushrooms have had 20 minutes in the oven.

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Already, they're really juicy and you can smell the Madeira,

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you can smell the thyme, smell the mushrooms.

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Now put the stuffing together. Break up the sausage meat.

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And then add some breadcrumbs.

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What's really going to make the mushrooms sing is chestnuts.

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You can get them fresh in the autumn, but the easy option is to use canned.

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It's that thing of mushrooms and chestnuts,

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the sort of thing you find together in the autumn.

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They're around at the same time of year.

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This evokes those darker evenings,

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when the weather's getting a little bit cooler.

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And there's that sort of mellow, almost mushroomy smell in the air.

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And that's what this dish brings to mind.

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Now, if there's too much stuffing, I just make up some little balls

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and pop them into the pan.

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So that some lucky person can have a little extra bit of baked stuffing.

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And that's all there is to it.

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I pop them back in the oven for about an hour.

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And they smell utterly wonderful.

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And in the pan, some of the little bits of spare stuffing.

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And the odd chestnut has toasted really nicely too.

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I wouldn't normally use the word scrumptious, but it is.

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It's the best word to describe that.

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It's sausagey, it's chestnutty and it's mushroomy.

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That's all the flavours of the season.

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A simple stuffed mushroom can make a stunning supper.

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Matching its dark flavours with its woodland partner, the chestnut,

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brings out the best of both.

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Ingredients that were just meant to be together.

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I'm in Devon, visiting a farm which produces the most outstanding meat.

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Now I'm searching for some locally grown vegetables to go with it

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in a hearty winter salad with cold roast beef.

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Neil and Matt are two hungry farmers,

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'so this dish had better be quick.'

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I'm just going to knock up a little dressing first.

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Grain mustard, white wine vinegar,

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olive oil and a pinch of salt

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all mixed together.

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Nobody uses swede anymore.

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It's one of those vegs that I'm quite fond of.

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I'm actually going to grate this and have it raw.

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When it's fresh out the ground and you skin it with your pocket knife, have a bit then.

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It is cracking.

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It's incredibly sweet. You know, it almost tastes like an apple. It's so sweet.

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Then I add some roughly shredded cabbage.

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So I'm going to put a bit of grated beetroot in.

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Not a lot. Put a little bit of that in.

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And I'm going to pop in some of these.

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I've got a tiny bit of raw kale.

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Yeah, those middle bits you've got there are tip-top.

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'This is a take on a classic crunchy coleslaw.

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'You could try any combination of winter veg.

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'Carrot or celeriac would also have been good.

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'Isn't that beautiful?'

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Shouldn't we just try it before you put it on there, make sure it's OK?

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-I think we should, don't you?

-Oh, I think so. Top hole.

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Oh, a bit tight with your portions, but it'll be all right.

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Yes, I've met your portions down here.

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LAUGHTER

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That's enough for me, anyway.

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-Is it?

-I don't know what you lot are eating!

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Sorry, I've got to do this. I couldn't resist them.

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-I love nasturtiums.

-You can eat flowers, can you?

-Yeah.

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And they're peppery.

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-A lovely beef salad.

-Can you knock up two of them?

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This was just for me, actually.

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Thank you, yeah. Rock on.

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That is tip-top.

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-It is sweet.

-Yeah.

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You'll have to excuse me, but I've got to have another one.

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Yeah, I'm not quite as good as serving it as you,

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but it'll go down the same way.

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It is an extraordinary thing, eating something

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that is so close to the landscape.

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-And it just feels right somehow.

-Oh, yeah.

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I was inspired to make this fabulous beef salad by the ingredients

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found right here on these moors.

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And if it's inspired you to get creative too,'

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you'll find lots more ideas if you go to the website.

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'My garden is my greatest inspiration.

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'Even at the end of the season, when the best of the harvest is over,

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'a closer look reveals hidden treasure.'

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Oh, look!

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Lovely!

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'Don't be scared of mixing any vegetables.

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'They really will just work together.'

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This recipe doesn't have a set list of ingredients.

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It's about taking whatever I can lay my hands on

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and simply transforming them into a delicious supper.

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I've got chard with its rainbow stalks.

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The last of the courgettes which has grown bigger than I normally like.

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And these courgette flowers have blossomed too late to grow.

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These tomatoes aren't going to ripen now.

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I can either make green tomato chutney,

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which will thrill all my friends,

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or I can actually cook them as green tomatoes.

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'I've also collected the last of the summer's basil

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'and I'll pick a little thyme, oregano and chives.'

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Anything with a very tender leaf isn't going to last through the cold weather,

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so you might as well pick it now.

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And just maybe the odd little herb flower that's left.

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Well, I've got supper.

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I could make a stew but I want to see

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if I can keep the various flavours distinct and fresh.

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I'm going to start by steaming some of them.

0:23:570:23:59

It's always a help when you steam anything to keep it roughly

0:23:590:24:03

the same size, so it all cooks at the same time.

0:24:030:24:06

Now, I've got some chard and the leaves are very tender.

0:24:110:24:15

The stalks just need that little bit longer cooking,

0:24:160:24:20

so I'm just going to steam these.

0:24:200:24:23

A few thyme and oregano leaves

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and I'll leave the vegetables to steam for ten minutes.

0:24:260:24:29

This is a courgette that has seen better days.

0:24:290:24:32

I try to pick them when they're really small,

0:24:320:24:34

but they hide under the leaves.

0:24:340:24:37

It doesn't mean they can go to waste.

0:24:370:24:40

The secret is to fry them slowly in olive oil and butter.

0:24:400:24:44

Any veg that looks like it's going to be tough, give it time.

0:24:460:24:50

Nothing will come from trying to quickly cook a vegetable

0:24:520:24:55

that's past its best.

0:24:550:24:57

Add a few basil leaves and sprigs of thyme.

0:25:040:25:07

A couple more bits of treasure - some courgette flowers.

0:25:090:25:12

You don't need them, I just don't want to waste them.

0:25:120:25:15

Next, slice the green tomatoes and add them to the pan.

0:25:150:25:20

These steamed vegetables have been on for about ten minutes or so.

0:25:290:25:33

And they're looking very tender to me.

0:25:330:25:36

Yeah, the knife just goes straight in, so they're done.

0:25:360:25:41

I need a sauce to bring everything together.

0:25:410:25:44

So melt some butter with some creme fraiche.

0:25:440:25:46

Add those last few little herbs that I've got.

0:25:480:25:52

The little leaves of thyme.

0:25:520:25:55

And finally, the shredded chard leaves go in.

0:25:570:26:02

And then the steamed vegetables.

0:26:020:26:04

I'm not going to waste these little herb flowers.

0:26:050:26:08

Everything I found in the garden's made it to the dish.

0:26:090:26:13

it could be the ultimate test of born and bred.

0:26:130:26:16

There's something else to bring the flavours out,

0:26:160:26:20

just something, er...

0:26:200:26:22

Just a tiny bit of lemon.

0:26:220:26:24

Just a few drops.

0:26:260:26:29

You could have put maybe a bit of garlic in there,

0:26:300:26:33

a little bit of chopped chilli.

0:26:330:26:35

I was tempted, but I want them to taste of themselves.

0:26:350:26:38

This is a celebration of my kitchen garden

0:26:400:26:43

and all the wonderful things I've grown in it this year.

0:26:430:26:46

You'd never guess that was a bit of a desperate supper.

0:26:480:26:51

A last minute trip round the garden to see what was left.

0:26:510:26:55

It tastes good.

0:26:550:26:57

Like so many things I make,

0:26:590:27:01

this dish was inspired by what I had in front of me.

0:27:010:27:04

With just a little thought, I made what was leftover in the garden

0:27:040:27:09

into a sensational supper.

0:27:090:27:11

Born and bred.

0:27:230:27:24

Ingredients that are naturally meant to be together.

0:27:240:27:28

Just because they are familiar combinations, doesn't mean

0:27:280:27:31

they can't be exciting and fresh.

0:27:310:27:33

Just let the flavours inspire you.

0:27:330:27:35

Next time,

0:27:360:27:38

I'll be exploring the importance of hot and cold.

0:27:380:27:41

Think sizzling lamb with a trickle of yoghurt

0:27:410:27:44

or blistering caramelized apples with homemade ice-cream.

0:27:440:27:48

It's very hot, it's chillingly cold, all at once.

0:27:480:27:52

Everything I want a mouthful of food to be.

0:27:520:27:54

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