Hot and Cold Nigel Slater's Simple Cooking


Hot and Cold

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I'm Nigel Slater.

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I enjoy uncomplicated cooking.

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For me, the tastiest dishes are based on the simplest combinations,

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from surf and turf,

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to soft and crisp, to something sweet with something sour.

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Once you start questioning a recipe - the how and why -

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then you can take it on and call it your own.

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So I want to explore some of my all-time favourite dishes. Wow.

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To unravel them and show you why they work so well.

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That is very, very good.

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Today, I want to explore the marriage of hot and cold.

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Great recipes often work for reasons we don't even think about,

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but for me, the marriage of hot and cold is something that can

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turn a great dish into something sublime.

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Contrasting temperatures is the key to so many delicious suppers

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and heavenly desserts.

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I want to show you my favourites, as well as heading to Scotland

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to meet one cook who has breakfast down to a fine art.

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-You've changed my mornings.

-Thank you.

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-For the better, I hope!

-For the better.

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I remember, years ago on holiday, after a journey on a Greek ferry,

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I got off at the port and there was a van selling bits of grilled lamb

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that were hot and sizzling and he poured over some very cold yoghurt.

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And I've just never forgotten it.

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Today, I want to try and create that same delightful dish.

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It's a simple recipe, but the key is getting that mix

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of hot and cold just right.

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I start with a basic marinade for my lamb.

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Olive oil, black pepper and thyme.

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The thyme doesn't make much difference.

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But it'll make the kitchen smell wonderful as it cooks.

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It's not just about eating, it's about the pleasure of cooking.

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I like to leave the lamb to marinate while I do the rest of the dish.

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I like pickled cabbage with grilled lamb, strange though it sounds.

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But if I haven't got time for pickling

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I finely slice the cabbage

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and cover it with a little white wine vinegar.

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A tiny bit of black pepper in there, too.

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To make my yoghurt dressing as cool and refreshing as I can,

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I'm going to add some grated cucumber.

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Simple though this dish is, I want it to pop in the mouth,

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to zing and the cool pepperiness of mint is the thing to make that happen.

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The grinding of white pepper will add a little heat.

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Then some yoghurt.

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This brings all my ingredients together.

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Use any thick, natural yoghurt.

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Then, this is really important, chill it in the fridge.

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Now for the lamb.

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If you don't have a griddle, a frying pan will work, too.

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The important thing is that it's really hot.

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How you like your lamb cooked is up to you,

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but I like mine caught at the edges on the griddle,

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just that little touch of charred blackness here and there,

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then pink and juicy inside.

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Then, while the chops are still sizzling...

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Some cold yoghurt and cucumber.

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Very hot. It's chillingly cold.

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It's salty, it's refreshing, all at once.

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It's everything I want a mouthful of food to be.

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The flavours of this dish are good enough,

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but it's the contrast of the sizzling lamb

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with the chilled yoghurt dressing that makes it really special,

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and brings back all those fabulous Greek holiday memories.

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I sometimes think my appetite is completely ruled by the seasons...

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What I fancy to eat is usually decided by what's going on outside,

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and today's no exception.

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When the weather's changeable, it can rain at the drop of a hat,

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I love it when I've got something in the fridge that can be warming,

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and that can sit there for a couple of days,

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the sort of thing that's between a soup and a stew.

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This dish is all about how to make a straightforward recipe

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a lot more exciting, with very little effort.

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Perfect for when it's cooling down outside

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and you want something really warming.

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I'm starting with a classic stew base -

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some roughly chopped onion and a stick of celery for depth.

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I usually chuck in a carrot, too, just to add a bit of sweetness.

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I grew carrots in a pot this year.

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I stuck seeds in a big pot with some compost and they did well.

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I'll put a few herbs in - some rosemary, a bit of bay.

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These are herbs for slow cooking. They're tough and they take a long time to cook down.

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A clove of garlic will add interest to the base flavours.

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I don't think there's any time I enjoy cooking more than on a rainy afternoon.

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Just hearing the rainfall and knowing I'm making something

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to warm us all up for supper. It's as good as cooking gets, really.

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The body of my stew comes in the form of some earthy lentils.

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If you're not a fan, other pulses will work just as well.

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And then immediately put some stock in.

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If I haven't got stock, I'm happy to use water.

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Then turn the heat down, put the lid on

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and leave it for about 30 minutes.

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For this stew to be chunky and rustic,

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I'm going to use a couple of squashes.

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A Cinderella Pumpkin and an acorn squash.

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We tend to think of the pumpkin as being...

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..the big beef joint of the vegetable patch -

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that firm flesh you can cook for a long time in the over

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or a casserole, and it doesn't break up.

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A quick seasoning of salt and pepper goes in before some water,

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just enough to cover the squash.

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The stew then needs a good 30 to 40 minutes to heat right through.

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Don't rush this bit. It's where the magic happens.

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What's going on in the pan is all dark and earthy

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and I want to add something bright and fresh to it.

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Just to make the whole thing zing.

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So masses of bright green parsley is just the thing.

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And finally a splash of red wine vinegar.

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That's fine as it is but I want the texture to be more creamy.

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To do that, I take a little out of the pot

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and whizz it up with some extra stock.

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So I've got the soft

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and very hot

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lentils and pumpkin

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and then whilst it's really piping hot,

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I'll stir in some chilled sour cream.

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Just a way of using temperature to turn very humble ingredients

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into something that's really exciting to eat.

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It's great because you get a big bowl of steaming soup

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and every now and again you get a flash of cold from the sour cream.

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Really hot and really cold all at once.

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Yes, this stew is gloriously warming,

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but it's adding that hit of chilled soured cream

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that turns it into something truly magical. Such little effort, too.

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One of my fondest food memories

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is being handed a bowl of my mum's steaming hot porridge.

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If there's one place to unravel the secrets behind the best,

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it's Scotland.

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Over 18 years, I've been training and perfecting

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my skills at making porridge.

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Three ingredients and I have to get it absolutely spot on.

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Ian Bishop is a champion porridge maker.

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He lives in the small Highland village

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that's home to the annual world championship.

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Now, I'm no expert at making porridge,

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so I'll take any chance to pick up a few tips.

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Have a seat, Nigel.

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'Ian's recipe starts by heating one part of medium oatmeal

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'to three parts of water

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'and he stirs with a traditional Scottish utensil, or spurtle.'

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-I always thought you stirred with that end!

-No.

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-You see, I even had my spurtle the wrong way round!

-Really?!

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I know!

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-I'm sorry.

-What sort of cook is that?

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-I'm embarrassed now.

-Are you?

-Yeah. I've been using a spurtle upside down!

-Och, don't let it bother you!

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-It's starting to thicken up.

-I can actually see it starting to...

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And when, I think, you put the salt in is very, very important.

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When I see a little, "Blurp," that's it starting to cook.

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And presumably the salt will bring out the flavour of the oats?

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That's right, yeah.

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Now, this is it cooking, so I'm exactly five minutes...

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It's like boiling an egg, it's absolutely to the minute.

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That's right, yeah.

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-So you have a little stir.

-Am I going to get this right?

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Yes, of course! You...stir it.

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-Am I stirring the right way?

-You must do it in a clockwise direction.

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If I did it anti-clockwise what would happen?

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The wrath of the devil! I can say no more.

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-I've met it.

-Mm.

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That is fearsomely hot. Can I pass this to you?

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-Fearsomely hot!

-Yeah?

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I could turn it down a little.

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We're ready for this? Here we go.

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(Oh, look at that!)

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There we are.

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'After a sprinkling of cinnamon comes the cold topping...

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'but not just one.

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'Ian adds some honey...

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'a spoonful of homemade blackcurrant jam

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'and one final addition.'

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So, this is cold, cold milk.

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-Cold, cold milk.

-With steaming porridge.

-Yeah.

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-Thank you.

-That's it, OK.

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NIGEL LAUGHS

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IAN LAUGHS HEARTILY

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-Do you like that?

-It's like something you've eaten all your life

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-and you discover you've been doing it wrong!

-Oh, NO!

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All these years!

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Then you have something and think, "What a waste, all those years I could've been eating it like this."

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It's glorious! Ian, you've changed my mornings!

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-Thank you!

-You really...

-For the better, I hope?

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-For the better.

-Mmm.

-What was I doing?!

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What have I been doing?

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IAN LAUGHS

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Glad! Mmm.

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'Sometimes you can't beat a simple thing perfectly made.

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'It's the starting point to most dishes in my kitchen.'

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I'm always interested where recipes come from.

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Where that little bit of inspiration gets you cooking

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and with me it's often tied to things I've eaten a long time ago.

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That lovely thing of getting fish and chips absolutely steaming hot

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and then the moment when I put vinegar on the chips

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and it splashes on to the fish.

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There's that hot fish, hot chips and cold vinegar

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and I love that sensation.

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It's that memory that's inspired this twist

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on the classic combination.

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With my hot fish, I'm going to make a spicy vinaigrette,

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which starts with some fresh lime juice

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and a splash of white wine vinegar.

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I always find limes really hard to squeeze.

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So if you give them a good roll and a squash

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you actually feel them relax and they suddenly feel much softer

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and you get more juice out of them...or at least I think you do.

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I also want to add some lime leaves.

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If you crumble them just before you put them in,

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it just gives that extra hit of lime.

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It's slightly different from the juice and different from the zest.

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If you can't find them it's not the end of the world,

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but I just like what they add to the recipe.

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'To add some kick to this dressing,

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'I'm chopping up some fresh hot chilli.

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'Leave out the seeds if you don't want it too hot.'

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This is one of those dressings that actually pops in the mouth.

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It's got those, all those elements that make something...

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quite exciting to eat.

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It's acidic, and it's hot, and it's sweet, and it's sour, and it's all mixed up.

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'Spring onions will brighten my spicy dressing,

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'and a carrot will add sweetness and crunch.

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'Black and white peppercorns and a few coriander seeds

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'will add subtle warmth,

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'and star anise will give it a hint of aniseed.

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'To balance all that, I just need something sweet.'

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I'm using palm sugar

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because the heart and soul of this recipe...is in Southeast Asia,

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but caster sugar is good too.

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'Add a trickle of water and simmer for five minutes.'

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Just going to have a little taste of this.

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Wow, that's quite... That's quite startling.

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Lime juice and chilli.

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I'm going to temper that with another ingredient.

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'Once my dressing is cool,

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'I can soften the pungent flavours with some olive oil.'

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About five or six tablespoons should be enough.

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I'm going to put that in the fridge to get really cold.

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'Now for the fish.

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'A light dusting of flour will help give it a lovely crisp coating.'

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Just a little bit of salt and pepper there.

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This is red mullet, but any firm white fish will do.

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In fact, you could even do it with mackerel.

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'The fish just needs frying quickly in a little sunflower oil

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'to give a crisp result.'

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And this is really well chilled from the fridge.

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'For a last-minute burst of freshness

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'I'm adding a little grated ginger

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'and some coriander leaves.'

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Now, what's quite important for me about this recipe...

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..is that the fish must be sizzling hot from the pan

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and the dressing really icy cold.

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So get everybody to the table on time.

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Hot fish, cold dressing.

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CRUNCHING

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It's absolutely amazing!

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It's light, and it's crisp, and it's fresh,

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and it's hot and it's cold,

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and there all sorts of things going on, all of which I love.

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'Who'd have thought my local chippy could inspire such a tasty dish?

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'Just make sure everyone's ready to tuck in -

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'timing really is the key.'

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'I'm spending the day in the Scottish Highlands with Ian Bishop.

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'He's brought me to this beautiful loch,

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'which has given me an idea for a simple and delicious treat,

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'using some local Scottish berries and crisp pears.'

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Ian, I've got some pears here...

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..and I'd love them to be really chilled.

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-If I give them to you...

-Yeah?

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IAN CHUCKLES

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You can find somewhere cold for those, can't you?

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I think I've got the very place!

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How's that?

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Genius is what it is!

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-I love this stuff.

-That's REAL butter!

-It's real butter.

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Get that to melt a little bit.

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Now, into that I'm going to put a little bit of heather honey.

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Just want that to melt.

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Now, I've got some blackberries.

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-I have a terrible sweet tooth, you know?

-Do you?

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-Hmm.

-I often think if I don't have something sweet

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to finish a meal with, that I'll just go on eating and eating.

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-I need that one little thing, just to say, "This is the end!"

-Yeah.

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If I cook these berries slowly, then the juices will just leak out

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and make a sort of berry impromptu little sauce,

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with our honey and butter.

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-Just let that bubble a little bit.

-That's bubbling away lovely!

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Cos the climate is perfect for berries up here.

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This slightly cooler and slightly moist climate

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-and I can't come up here and not have them.

-These are superb,

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they are from a walled garden and it's just...

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People through the valley are waiting...

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..for fruits to be ready!

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I used to wait for my neighbour's apples to be ripe,

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-then I'd climb over the wall...

-Did you? HA! I did that!

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'I fancy adding a trickle of booze

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'and I think this local mead could be just the thing.'

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This is a fermented honey wine, isn't it?

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-Wow!

-I just wanted some sort of alcohol in there

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and it could be a bit of whisky.

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That looks so appetising, it's just bubbling away...

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-This is looking ready.

-Mmm.

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Smells delish!

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Well, do you think our pears are cold enough?

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Well, I'll go and get them and see, eh?

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I would think so.

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It's only because you've got the waders on!

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Well, there's no fish scouting about in there.

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There will be! That's got a little chill to it.

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It's funny how things crisp up when you really chill them.

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It's like when I'm making a salad

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and if I put the leaves into iced water,

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and actually put some ice cubes in the water,

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that the leaves really crisp up. It's the same with fruit.

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I'm beginning to get your idea about this hot and cold.

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I never thought of it before with the porridge, you know?

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Erm, not with the same emphasis as you're putting on it, but...

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-Cor, that looks great!

-It's good, isn't it?

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Yeah! Anybody can do this on a camp fire, or something, can't they?

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It's so simple! I can't wait.

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-I'll let you go first, since you've...

-YOU go first!

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No, well... I'll race you!

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THEY LAUGH

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Oh, boy!

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Ahh!

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Where else would you want to be on a day like this

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-and eating a plate like this?

-I wouldn't...

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I can't think... I mean, this is made for pudding!

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I'm just happy to be here.

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-The pudding loch!

-The pudding loch! Exactly.

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'Right food, right place, right time.

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'It's the best recipe of all.

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'Have a look at our website for your own inspiration.'

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I think of all the puddings I love, and I love most of them,

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apple pie and ice cream comes really high on the list.

0:23:090:23:13

If I get it right...

0:23:130:23:15

..I can put the cold ice cream on top of the oven-fresh pie

0:23:160:23:21

at exactly the right moment,

0:23:210:23:23

so the ice cream melts down over the pastry and into the apples.

0:23:230:23:27

'Today, I don't fancy making pastry though,

0:23:270:23:30

'so I'm going to try something a bit different.

0:23:300:23:33

'I want to make a simple ice cream

0:23:330:23:34

'to have with some sizzling caramelised apples.

0:23:340:23:38

'I'm starting with the ice cream.

0:23:380:23:41

'Cooking apples are best as they tend to have a sharper flavour

0:23:420:23:46

'and just a bit more clout!'

0:23:460:23:49

It's always a joy slicing apples into a pan,

0:23:510:23:54

I can remember my mother doing it.

0:23:540:23:55

It's one of those peaceful kitchen jobs.

0:23:550:23:58

It's really a joy to do.

0:24:010:24:03

'A fresh lemon will help keep the apple from browning.'

0:24:040:24:07

'A good sprinkling of sugar will bring out the flavour of the fruit.'

0:24:110:24:15

'Stew for a few minutes until they soften.'

0:24:150:24:18

You can take it right down to a puree if you want

0:24:210:24:23

but I like a few lumps in it to get a bit of texture in my ice cream.

0:24:230:24:28

'They need to be cool before I add the final ingredient, custard.'

0:24:280:24:34

Of course you can make your own custard from scratch

0:24:340:24:37

but sometimes I haven't got time and I use the ready-made stuff.

0:24:370:24:42

So, you just fold the custard into the apple.

0:24:460:24:51

I always try and remember to put the dish in the freezer first

0:24:570:25:01

so that it's really cold when you put the ice cream in.

0:25:010:25:04

It just gives it a head start.

0:25:040:25:06

'Making your own ice cream really is so easy.

0:25:080:25:10

'All this needs now is a good couple of hours in the freezer.

0:25:100:25:14

'Just give it a stir halfway through.'

0:25:140:25:17

You're really just getting air into it. That's all you're doing.

0:25:170:25:20

It does make a difference to the finished texture.

0:25:200:25:23

'Now I want something to go with my home-made ice cream

0:25:300:25:34

'so I'm going to caramelise a few apples.

0:25:340:25:37

I'm using a dessert apple for this.

0:25:370:25:40

I think it's quite nice to choose another variety.

0:25:400:25:43

'Caramelising is just a case of frying the apples in butter

0:25:430:25:46

'over a moderate heat, until they're golden and glossy.

0:25:460:25:50

'It should only take a few minutes.'

0:25:500:25:53

The apples are really soft right the way through

0:25:530:25:55

but I want them to be really sticky and sugary

0:25:550:25:59

so I'm just going to put a bit more butter in and then some sugar.

0:25:590:26:02

What I'm after is that moment

0:26:040:26:08

when you've got stingy hot apples

0:26:080:26:12

and freezing cold ice cream in your mouth at once.

0:26:120:26:15

And there is nothing that gets hotter than melting sugar.

0:26:150:26:18

'Once the apple and sugar have browned,

0:26:200:26:23

'my apples are ready to serve.'

0:26:230:26:25

On top of those...

0:26:290:26:32

freezing ice cream.

0:26:320:26:35

This is the ideal texture for ice cream.

0:26:360:26:39

It's not rock hard and it's not slushy.

0:26:390:26:41

It's just between the two.

0:26:410:26:43

And then, so that I get what I'm after,

0:26:450:26:49

which is very hot apples and very cold ice cream,

0:26:490:26:52

I slip some more apples and a little bit of the caramel sauce

0:26:520:26:57

on the very top.

0:26:570:26:59

This dish isn't just about flavours and textures.

0:27:110:27:15

It's about timing.

0:27:150:27:17

It's that moment when you've got the almost-burning-hot apple

0:27:170:27:21

and the freezing cold ice cream in your mouth at the same time.

0:27:210:27:25

and that's when it's sensational and when it really, really works.

0:27:250:27:28

'This cheeky twist on the good old-fashioned apple pie and ice cream

0:27:350:27:39

'is just as tasty, but without the faff of making the pastry.

0:27:390:27:43

'A perfect treat to round off any supper.'

0:27:430:27:46

'All these recipes combine fabulous flavours and textures,

0:28:010:28:04

'but it's their contrasting temperatures

0:28:040:28:06

'that makes them a real thrill for the taste buds.'

0:28:060:28:09

'Next time I want to explore a different pairing in the kitchen.

0:28:110:28:14

'The marriage of something weird with something wonderful.'

0:28:140:28:18

And I'm expecting one thing and I'm getting another.

0:28:180:28:21

'It might not be an obvious recipe for success,

0:28:210:28:24

'but sometimes the most unlikely combinations are the best.'

0:28:240:28:29

It really is gorgeous.

0:28:290:28:31

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