Weird and Wonderful Nigel Slater's Simple Cooking


Weird and Wonderful

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I'm Nigel Slater. I don't think great cooking has to be complicated,

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and it definitely shouldn't be a chore.

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Sometimes, the best things to cook are the simplest.

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For me, that's what cooking is all about - combinations like surf and turf,

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soft and crisp, sweet and sour.

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I'll be taking a fresh look at favourite recipes.

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It's like heaven on a spoon.

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And also cooking up some new ones.

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Quite unusual, but it's a success.

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And when you see how much fun you could have in the kitchen,

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I hope you'll be inspired too.

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Today is all about the marriage of weird and wonderful.

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It's about making familiar recipes more exciting,

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with unexpected twists and new ingredients.

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Sometimes it's the most unlikely combinations that give you the tastiest results.

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That's when cooking gets really exciting.

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I want to explore the unusual

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and the familiar at home in the kitchen, and out in the country.

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There is no doubt that this is game.

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Masses of flavour.

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I'm not the sort of cook who travels the world

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trying to find weird things to eat.

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But I do like to ring the changes.

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And much more fun, to my mind,

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is to take something I know very well, something familiar,

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and give it a new lease of life, give it a surprise.

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So I'm taking an unusual approach to one of my favourites - apple crumble.

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I want to play with the flavours and make a savoury version.

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Something to try with a Sunday roast or even alongside some sausages.

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Half a dozen apples should be enough.

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There's two ways to approach the filling for a crumble.

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You either cook the fruit from raw, with the crumble topping on it,

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or you just give the fruit a few minutes in a pan

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with a little bit of butter, to start with.

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So often, cooking is about getting something on the table at the end of the day.

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It's about feeding the hungry hordes.

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But I think it also can be about having a little bit of fun.

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A rainy afternoon, a few ingredients, and just playing a bit.

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These apples just need a few minutes to stew.

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Plenty of time to make my crumble topping.

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It starts in the usual way with butter and flour.

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I'm just going to rub the butter into the flour,

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which you can do in a food processor and it takes seconds,

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but I like the feel of food in my hands,

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particularly baking.

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I just end up with a good, rich, basic crumble.

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Check the apples and see how they're coming on.

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They're looking good. They're looking nice and soft.

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I'm going to put in a little bit of Madeira. You could use Marsala.

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Just something to give it a grown-up flavour.

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So far, so traditional. But I want my crumble to be a bit different.

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Time for the savoury twist.

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Apples and cheese are one of life's perfect marriages.

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So I'm going to grate into that a little bit of Parmesan cheese.

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A good strong Parmesan will add real flavour to this.

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You probably need three or four tablespoons.

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Breadcrumbs will add to the savoury edge and crisp up beautifully.

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I'm just thinking of something that will work with the apples.

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Maybe a little bit of thyme. I've actually got some lemon thyme,

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which just has that little extra bit of freshness.

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Lemon thyme works well in stuffing,

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and will add a delicate freshness.

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So the apple's really quite soft, and it's soaked up a little bit of that alcohol.

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And then it gets its crumble topping.

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A final shower of Parmesan, and into the oven it goes.

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I'm grateful for the rain today -

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it's a wonderful excuse to stay inside, pour myself a drink

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and just enjoy the scent of baking.

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It's deeply savoury from the cheese and thyme,

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but there's definitely the sweetness of apple in there too.

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Looks like a crumble.

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Something very familiar and friendly about that.

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I'm expecting pudding,

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but I'm actually getting something that reminds me of an old-fashioned ploughman's lunch,

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with a big lump of cheese and an apple.

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It would be a really nice thing to have on the side with some cold roast meat.

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Quite unusual, but it's a success.

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The cheese has made a classic apple crumble

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into something intriguing, for very little effort.

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I'd happily eat this for supper any day of the week,

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and especially with sausages.

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Although I've cooked every day since I was young, I've still got so much to learn.

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That's the great thing about experimenting.

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You can read all the cookery books you like,

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but you'll never know if something works and if you like it until you try it.

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And that's especially true when a recipe contains unfamiliar things.

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There are one or two ingredients that are truly "love or hate".

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My list of "hate" ingredients is very short.

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But there are things I never used to like - things I wouldn't think of eating -

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that not only have I learned to love,

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they've actually become one of my favourite ingredients.

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And one of them is black pudding.

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If you've never tried black pudding,

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or you want to persuade someone to give it a go,

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this fantastic supper dish is a great place to begin.

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I start by frying a couple of onions in butter.

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But I'm not going to serve them on the side -

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they're going to go into the sausage roll itself.

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If you cook onions slowly, they become incredibly sweet and treacly,

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and that's exactly what I want,

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because it works beautifully with the real savoury quality of a black pudding.

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I'm also adding the simple flavours of bay leaf and thyme.

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And now the pastry.

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Ready-rolled puff pastry is a great standby to have in the fridge or freezer

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and makes this recipe so quick and easy.

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A lot of British butchers are now starting to experiment with their black pudding recipes.

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They're making softer types, similar to those in France and Spain.

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They're more pliable and a little bit spicy

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and they're really, really delicious.

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If you're still not convinced by these new black puddings,

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then just use a favourite sausage - it'll still taste great.

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The onions are dark golden brown,

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so it's time to put the sausage roll together.

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Use beaten egg to seal the edges of the parcel,

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so that none of the delicious juices leak out.

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If I wanted to introduce somebody to the pleasures of black pudding, this is what I'd do.

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Very few people can resist a sausage roll.

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Now, that needs to go into a really hot oven, at least 200 degrees.

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I'd like a familiar sauce to serve with my unusual black pudding.

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Now, if it's sausages, it's got to be mustard.

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They are two things that, for me,

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just go hand in glove.

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I'm mixing some smooth and grain mustard

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into some single cream, a little bit at a time.

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Just taste as you go.

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That needs a little bit more mustard and it really is the only way to tell,

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just to put your finger in and taste it.

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Then I need some old-fashioned curly parsley - another perfect partner for any sausage.

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Finally, a twist of salt and pepper.

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The sausage roll will take about 20 minutes in a hot oven.

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I reckon the waiting is the hardest part of this recipe.

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The smell is wonderful. It's coming up through the little cracks in the pastry.

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Then some of my parsley sauce.

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This cream sauce would add a touch of luxury to any sausage supper,

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so I'm sure it will finish my black pudding off nicely.

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It's absolutely delicious.

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If you don't like the idea of black pudding, maybe you'll like it like that.

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It really is a very special sausage roll.

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Trying a new ingredient in a familiar recipe like this

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is such an easy way of opening up your everyday cooking.

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The important thing is to give it a go!

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My search for weird and wonderful dishes

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has brought me to one of the most beautiful places in Britain - the Peak District -

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and to Thornbridge Hall, near Bakewell.

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I'm here to meet a man who's got something very unusual to show me.

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I've always been interested in wild boar. They're a very intriguing animal.

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I lived in New Zealand for four years and over there they run wild, they're not farmed,

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and I realised that over here there's a demand for the meat, which is getting more popular.

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Tom Clarke used to be a butcher until he gave it up to raise wild boar,

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which roam free in part of the estate.

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It's feeding time, and in a fine example of recycling,

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Tom gives his boars the waste grain from a brewery that's housed on the estate.

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They're loving it.

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These are the grains that come from...after you've brewed the beer? That's the husks?

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-That's the husks.

-Smells like a cross between, um... brown toast and chocolate.

-Yeah.

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I feel as if I've kind of travelled back to medieval times.

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-They were extinct at one time, weren't they?

-They were, 300 years ago,

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They were native wild animals in England,

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and they hunted them and wiped them out.

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We're slowly introducing them back, but farmed, for safety reasons.

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-They have a good life.

-You can tell they have a good life.

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And I like meeting things I'm going to eat.

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I think it's kind of important. It is.

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Otherwise, you're so divorced from the animal,

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when you see it pre-packed on the supermarket shelf.

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It's slightly sweeter than normal pork.

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-Not as strong as venison, even though it is game.

-Bit of apple sauce with it?

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Gravy, in my opinion. I think sausages have to be with gravy.

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We're heading back to the house, where Tom's going to make lunch for us both

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from the meat he prepares himself.

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-Oh, so that's boar.

-That's the stuff.

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That doesn't look anything like pork.

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No, almost beefy-looking.

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-I like this fat.

-That's what's on the outside of the animal.

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That fat's on the outside and nothing in the middle. That's its insulation.

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Fantastic.

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If I wanted to do something quick with it - you'd mince it?

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Ideally mince it, hence by doing a burger - it's a quick, simple ingredient.

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There's fat mixed in with it so it doesn't fall apart,

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it seasons it and it stays together and doesn't dry it out.

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We're using a little hand mincer there.

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I normally do 70% meat, 30% fat.

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Making your own burgers is so simple.

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If you can't get wild boar, try making them

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with minced beef, pork or lamb.

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The great thing is that you'll know exactly what's gone into them -

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and you can add whatever you fancy.

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You'd season this with probably not very much.

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Not a great deal cos you want to taste the wild boar. Just a few herbs to give it a bit of a lift.

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Tom adds red onion, garlic and chopped rosemary.

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I'm looking at this and I keep thinking it's beef,

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but you're adding what I think of as pork seasonings.

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-Yes.

-The rosemary and the garlic.

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Absolutely. I'm just going to make them into rough burgers.

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It's a wild boar, it's a rugged animal.

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Nothing neat about it, in my opinion.

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Couple of minutes each side, that's all we need.

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Don't be afraid of trying game.

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It's a bit different from your everyday meat,

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but I love its deep, distinct flavour.

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-When you smell them cooking, there is no doubt that this is game.

-Yes, absolutely.

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-There is that rich, almost woodsy note...

-Yep.

-..of game meat.

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Oh, look at that. Look at that!

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This will be the first time I've ever eaten a wild boar burger.

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Rough-looking and rustic with just three ingredients, it couldn't be simpler.

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It might be an unusual meat

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but the fact it was raised just down the road is wonderful.

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That is probably the most handsome burger I have ever seen.

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-It's pretty.

-I hope you're not expecting to eat this elegantly.

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There's no elegant way of eating a burger.

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-Isn't that good?

-Perfect.

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-It's kind of quite wild flavours.

-Yes. It's not too harsh.

-No.

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Masses of flavour. It's a good burger, Tom.

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Good burger.

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The wild boar meat is simply sensational.

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If you want to try it, look in farm shops, delis or good butchers.

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Get the details on our website,

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along with more ideas for how you can experiment yourself.

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It's all too easy to be a little bit dismissive

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of things we don't know and understand,

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and that includes the vegetable world.

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I never knew how to treat kohlrabi.

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I know they're very beautiful vegetables,

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very unusual to look at, but I really didn't know what to do with them.

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I might have even been a little bit rude about them.

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You might not have come across kohlrabi.

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The name literally means "cabbage turnip".

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But they're more sweet and juicy,

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which makes them perfect

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to pair with some more familiar fruit and veg,

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in a delicious winter coleslaw.

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The pale green kohlrabi looks amazing

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with these thin slices of white and pink grapefruit.

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If you're not a grapefruit fan,

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you could use a large, tangy orange instead.

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Now a little dressing.

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I need a squeeze of lemon juice and some salty capers.

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Also in there, just a little bit of olive oil.

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I want this salad to be full of crunch.

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I want it to invigorate and surprise.

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So I'm just going to put together a simple, luscious topping.

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I'm putting in some little spring onions, very finely sliced.

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I'm going to put a tiny bit of garlic in there as well.

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Only use garlic raw if it's very juicy and fresh-looking.

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So a few slivers of that...

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And then some yogurt.

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This creamy yoghurt would be great as part of any crunchy salad,

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but I'm going to try it with another underused veg.

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I think I'd seen celeriac

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sitting around in the greengrocer's for years. I didn't know what it was.

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There's something very cleansing about the smell of celeriac.

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This is the sort of salad I'd eat if I had a hangover

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or maybe if I had eaten too much the day before.

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Celeriac browns quite quickly when you cut it,

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so it's worth having a lemon on hand, just to squeeze over it.

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I think the salad could do with some more fresh parsley.

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It has a grounding effect on a dish - brings it back to earth.

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I've put quite a few things that are either new to me,

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or things that I don't use very often.

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So I need something in there that I know really well.

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And that's beetroot.

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Add a little olive oil to the yogurt mixture,

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toss together with the grated veg

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and you're ready to assemble the salad.

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Add to here.

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I do love soothing food with familiar flavours.

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I also like things that startle and excite.

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It's crisp and it's crunchy and it's got that sourness to it as well.

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And it's delicious.

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It's a new, fresh salad, and I love it.

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I spent much too long ignoring our more unusual vegetables.

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This dazzling dish just reminds me

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how versatile and full of flavour they are, both raw and cooked.

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Kohlrabi and celeriac - give them a chance.

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They might just end up as a regular treat.

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I'm at Thornbridge Hall in Derbyshire with wild boar farmer Tom Clarke.

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Earlier, Tom introduced me to something new

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with his tasty boar burger,

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so I want to cook something just as interesting and wonderful for him.

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His impressive kitchen garden

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will provide me with the wonderful bit.

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Even at this time of year, there's still an amazing amount going on.

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I love these. This, to me, looks like what I call purple Russian.

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And at the top, they're really tender.

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I can't resist this. Cavolo nero - black cabbage.

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-So can I nick some of the sprouts here?

-Yes.

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So what's the difference, other than the purple, from the green sprouts?

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Not a lot, in terms of flavour.

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But they look so pretty on the plate.

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It's actually looking quite good.

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-It's looking rather healthy.

-Yes, very healthy.

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So now I've got my wonderful veg, I need something weird to go with them.

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I've got a recipe idea

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that could make use of the estate's home-grown beer,

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so Jim Harrison, the brains behind the brewery,

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has bought me a few to choose from.

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We've got quite a selection here, running from a wheat beer

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to beautifully hopped, light-coloured beers.

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That's what I want!

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I'm after something light and fresh-tasting,

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to make a very crisp, light batter.

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-That's your man. That will fit the bill perfectly.

-Lovely.

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While Jim heads back to some more brewing,

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I'm joining Tom to make a start on the veg we picked in the garden.

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So I want a very light batter to cling to these,

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because they're so delicate.

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Although the flavours are quite strong.

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So, a little bit of flour. We pop in an egg yolk.

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-That will help bind it together?

-Yep.

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Just makes it that little bit richer.

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I often use wine in my cooking,

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but I rarely get the chance to cook with beer.

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But this batter gives me the perfect excuse to open a bottle.

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You can actually feel it's light on the whisk.

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Doesn't matter that it's got lumps -

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doesn't make any difference at all.

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The beer should give me a lovely light batter.

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You could experiment with other types of veg,

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or a bit of fish.

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I mean, traditionally, you wouldn't use a beer batter for tempura,

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but I think the beer with the cabbage leaves will be amazing.

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Yes.

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The leaves will only need a few minutes to cook,

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until the batter is light and crisp.

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I mean, this is slightly experimental.

0:21:260:21:28

I want to try some of these little sprouts.

0:21:280:21:31

I have to say, I have never deep-fried a sprout before.

0:21:320:21:36

It'll make it more interesting. I'm not a sprout lover.

0:21:360:21:39

-No?

-No. Christmas Day only - that's it.

0:21:390:21:42

For people who don't like their veg,

0:21:420:21:44

it's a good, fun, exciting way of eating them.

0:21:440:21:47

I've never tried the tempura batter on veg before.

0:21:470:21:50

-Certainly not on sprouts.

-No!

0:21:500:21:51

These crisp vegetables are crying out for a dip,

0:21:510:21:54

so I'm just making a very quick one

0:21:540:21:57

with fresh orange, lemon juice and soy sauce.

0:21:570:22:00

-What do you fancy, then?

-I'm going to try a sprout, straight in there.

0:22:000:22:03

All right. Dip it in.

0:22:030:22:06

It doesn't taste like a sprout. It's sweeter.

0:22:100:22:13

Sweet, with the sharpness of the dip.

0:22:130:22:16

You can taste the beer, which I didn't think you would.

0:22:160:22:20

As well as the sharpness of the dip, you can tell there's beer.

0:22:200:22:24

-That's quite exciting to me.

-Yeah.

0:22:240:22:25

The sour, sweet dip, then these earthy greens.

0:22:270:22:32

So it's a hit with Tom - even the sprouts!

0:22:320:22:35

But what will Jim think of what I've done with his beer?

0:22:350:22:38

Am I dipping in here?

0:22:380:22:40

Yeah, dip it into the citrus and soy.

0:22:400:22:42

-Mmm! Beautiful.

-Crunchy, eh?

-Very crunchy, It's fantastic, isn't it?

0:22:460:22:51

-Marvellous.

-Thank you very much. And it does seem to work.

0:22:510:22:54

It's that lightness of the batter. That was the right beer.

0:22:540:22:58

The beer worked really well. I could eat that all day long. Beautiful!

0:22:580:23:02

We all know that fish is great in a batter,

0:23:020:23:05

but I've found the same is even true of a sprout!

0:23:050:23:08

It just goes to show what can happen if you experiment a little.

0:23:080:23:11

Sometimes things really take you by surprise.

0:23:200:23:23

I remember ordering bread and butter pudding once,

0:23:230:23:26

and thinking I was on very safe ground.

0:23:260:23:29

But I got something very surprising.

0:23:310:23:33

A traditional bread and butter pudding is full of wonderful spices

0:23:330:23:37

and coconut milk.

0:23:370:23:39

Although it was a dish I recognised, and was very happy to eat,

0:23:390:23:45

it came with this wonderful variation. I've never forgotten it.

0:23:450:23:48

You might think that something as classic

0:23:480:23:51

as good old bread and butter pudding can't be improved on,

0:23:510:23:54

but trust me. A few aromatic spices and some rich coconut milk

0:23:540:23:58

will transform a familiar dish into something new and wonderful.

0:23:580:24:02

I'm starting by making the custard base.

0:24:040:24:07

I need egg yolks and some coconut milk.

0:24:100:24:12

It's got a richness to it that will work very very nicely

0:24:140:24:18

with the spices.

0:24:180:24:20

And some ordinary milk.

0:24:220:24:24

Now, the reason that this pudding was so wonderful

0:24:290:24:31

was because of the sweet spices.

0:24:310:24:34

They were unexpected. The first one that went in was vanilla.

0:24:340:24:38

You can use vanilla extract, but I quite like using the whole pod.

0:24:400:24:45

Just scrape some of the seeds out, drop them into the custard.

0:24:450:24:50

Put the split pod in there as well,

0:24:500:24:52

because you'll get masses of flavour in there.

0:24:520:24:55

The next spice to go in is possibly my favourite of all.

0:24:550:24:59

If I can only take one spice to my desert island, it would be cardamom.

0:24:590:25:04

There's something magical about the smell of this stuff.

0:25:040:25:08

It's a warm smell. Then there's this hit of the exotic about it.

0:25:080:25:12

Cinnamon's the last spice to go in.

0:25:160:25:19

And some sugar - I'm using muscovado,

0:25:190:25:24

as it's got a rich, butterscotch flavour.

0:25:240:25:27

There are so many breads that you can use in this pudding.

0:25:270:25:30

I think I've used every bread there is, including hot cross buns.

0:25:300:25:34

They've all been delicious.

0:25:340:25:36

Spread the bread with some soft butter.

0:25:360:25:39

How you arrange the slices is up to you,

0:25:390:25:42

but I do think it's nice to cut the crusts off.

0:25:420:25:46

And just on the top, a little bit of Demerara sugar.

0:25:490:25:53

Sometimes I feel I could cook just for the smell of cooking alone.

0:25:540:25:58

And this is one of those moments.

0:25:580:26:00

Have the oven quite low so the custard bakes slowly.

0:26:000:26:04

As a treat, I want to make a caramelised banana topping

0:26:070:26:11

to go with my pud.

0:26:110:26:12

You'll need two or three quite firm fruits.

0:26:120:26:16

Cook them slowly in butter with a generous sprinkle of sugar.

0:26:160:26:19

So once the bananas are sizzling and starting to brown a bit,

0:26:230:26:27

they're going to get a bit of grated orange zest.

0:26:270:26:30

It's simply just that last bit of freshness

0:26:340:26:38

with something that is homely and warm and baked.

0:26:380:26:42

Just that little zip to bring the whole thing to life.

0:26:420:26:45

If you shake the pan, you'll see when it's ready,

0:26:520:26:56

because it quivers slightly.

0:26:560:26:58

Almost blancmange-like.

0:26:590:27:01

So I've got toasted bread...

0:27:110:27:14

quivering, sweet, spicy custard and a bit of fried banana.

0:27:140:27:20

It's just the smell of the sweetness and the spice.

0:27:260:27:28

It's like you've opened up a whole spice cupboard.

0:27:280:27:31

Then you've got this back note

0:27:310:27:33

of this lovely, sweet butterscotch sugar.

0:27:330:27:36

It really is gorgeous.

0:27:360:27:38

It's blissful.

0:27:390:27:41

Adding the coconut milk

0:27:440:27:46

is a brilliant way to ring the changes with such a familiar pudding.

0:27:460:27:50

What else you add is up to you - favourite spices, dried fruits -

0:27:500:27:54

whatever takes your fancy.

0:27:540:27:58

The caramelised bananas would make a really lovely topping

0:27:580:28:02

for ice cream too if you don't have time to make the pud.

0:28:020:28:06

In this series I've tried lots of different food combinations.

0:28:090:28:14

You'll find all the recipes on the website.

0:28:140:28:16

There are so many other perfect pairings still out there to explore.

0:28:180:28:23

It's really fired my imagination.

0:28:250:28:27

I hope it has for you too.

0:28:270:28:28

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:28:380:28:40

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0:28:400:28:43

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