Soda Bread Paul Hollywood's Bread


Soda Bread

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In Britain, we spend more than £3.5 billion

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on bread every year.

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I come from a family of bakers,

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but I still want to encourage you to bake your own bread at home.

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The smell that is coming off that is... is fantastic.

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I think every home is improved by it, so I want to show you that

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making bread in your own kitchen is much more satisfying than buying

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a loaf...

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because it's a feast for your family, and for your senses.

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'The smell of it, the feel of it...'

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Beautiful stuff.

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'..the look of it...'

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Not like the ones you buy in the shops.

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It's more special than that.

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'..the sound of it...'

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This is a beautiful loaf.

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'..and the taste of it.'

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Wow!

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It just tastes so good.

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You've got to try it.

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I want to show you that making bread is simple, really.

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You mix, knead,

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prove, shape,

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prove again,

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then finally, bake.

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Some loaves I show you may seem complicated,

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but with time and focus, you can grasp them all,

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as I will guide you every step of the way.

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Once you've mastered them, I'm going

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to reveal how bread can be much more than just the loaf.

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It can be a meal in itself.

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One of the only things that will keep my mouth shut.

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So, there's no excuses - get baking.

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Soda bread. It's the most simple bread to make in the world.

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You do not have to be scared.

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My son could do this, and he's 11 years old.

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In this programme, it's all about speed.

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You can do the whole lot in 45 minutes.

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Breads traditionally use yeast to make them rise,

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which takes time, but I'm going to bake breads that use

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bicarbonate of soda as a much faster rising agent.

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For breakfast, a twist on a breakfast classic -

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eggs Benedict, served on a crumpet with a home-made hollandaise sauce.

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For lunch, a smoked salmon pate with its own stout soda bread.

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For dinner, a hearty British stew, with a cheesy scone topping.

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But to begin, a traditional, crusty Irish loaf.

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Now let's get cracking.

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The dried mixture is 250 grams of plain white flour, and an equal

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amount of plain wholemeal flour, a teaspoon of salt, then the bicarb.

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Bicarbonate of soda is the alkaline in the mix.

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This for the rising agent. At the moment, it's bone dry.

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Add acid to that, it'll start to activate and produce carbon dioxide.

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That is the leavening agent in this bread.

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Just give it a little mix at the moment.

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The reason being, when we add the buttermilk, which is

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the next thing to go in, it will instantly start working.

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For 500 grams of flour, you need 420 ml of buttermilk.

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So, the ingredients are very basic. This goes straight in.

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If you haven't got buttermilk, you can use sour cream if you like.

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The whole thing in there is beginning to buzz.

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It'll start to bubble now, the reaction is already started.

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So, you've got to be quite quick.

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Time to get your hands in and mix.

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It's a lovely soft mixture.

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I want to incorporate all the flour on the edge of the bowl.

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If you want to add cheese to this, you can.

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If you want to add bacon to this, you can.

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You can add a lot of ingredients to this.

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If you don't want to use wholemeal flour, you can use all white.

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You just end up with a white soda bread.

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If you look at that now, it's just been brought together.

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There's no real structure to it, and you can see it crumbles

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and breaks very easily.

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No need to knead. Just bring the mixture together and shape.

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All you have to do is gently flip and turn.

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You don't want to start kneading, because the last thing you want

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to do on a soda bread is bite into it and have a bit more of a chew.

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You want it to crumble and melt in your mouth.

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Lift it up, and just gently massage.

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You want to add a little bit of flour to the bench,

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just to stop it from sticking too much.

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I like to use a little bit of wholemeal flour as well, to dust.

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I think it adds something to it.

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Because that little bit of dusting on the top

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when you bake it off caramelises and forms a very light brown

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crust on the top, which gives it a little bit of bite, as well.

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So, tuck it underneath.

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Push your hands together underneath, to give it a little

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bit of tension on the top,

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and turn it in the flour.

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Get a little bit of flour, pat it on the top,

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that'll go straight onto a baking tray.

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There's no need to prove, just give a traditional finishing touch.

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The last thing you do is let the devil out.

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Letting the devil out is a very old term.

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When people were making soda bread, they used to rise

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and they thought it was the devil,

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and so they needed to release it, because it was the devil's work.

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It was witchcraft that these breads used to rise.

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But what this cross really does is ensure an even bake.

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Keep it quite tight together.

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As this thing grows, it will bloom slightly, and open up like a flower.

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Get a little bit of the wholemeal flour on the top,

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the rest of the work is done by the oven.

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The final stage is baking.

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Bake at 200 degrees for 30 minutes.

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The heat will help the air bubbles formed by the bicarb

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and buttermilk make the loaf rise.

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That is a great soda bread.

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I'm carving slices out of this, but look at the crumb on that.

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I mean, this is a very beautiful,

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crispy loaf.

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I'm going to transform this quick,

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crusty loaf into a fast lunchtime meal.

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Very much a peasant food, which is me all over, really.

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Begin by finely slicing some spring onions,

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add a chunk of cheddar.

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Roughly grate this.

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That is a lot of cheese.

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Warm up some milk, and whisk in some flour to thicken.

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Now I'm going to pop the cheese in here.

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Add breadcrumbs, and a teaspoon of mustard powder.

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A little bit of kick to it as well.

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And finally, I've got a good glug of stout.

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Once the rarebit has cooled slightly, add two egg yolks for

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richness, half the spring onions, and give it all one good final mix.

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Now it's ready to go on top of the toast.

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Pop under the grill until bubbling and golden.

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Look at them. Proper cheese on toast.

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Ahhh.

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There you have it. A quick loaf becomes a quick meal.

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Soda bread is just one of the many loaves that evolved during

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the 19th century, because of the introduction of bicarb.

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To find out more, I'm meeting food historian Ivan Day in south London.

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He's going to tell me how the

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Northern teatime bread, parkin, evolved from this...

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to this.

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How long has that been around?

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Because I mean, looking at that,

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that does look like it's prehistoric, to be honest.

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Well, it really is a very ancient dish.

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-It was originally called tharth cake...

-Yeah.

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And they only had this on special occasions.

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So, you think this looks a bit primitive and prehistoric,

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but this is holiday bread.

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This is what you have on a special occasion.

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Most people didn't have ovens.

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Yeah, of course.

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So all of our breads in the north of England tended to be

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-what were really like chapattis.

-Yeah.

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To make this historic parkin recipe,

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Ivan mixes the oats with golden syrup, treacle, melted butter

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and powdered ginger, and then forms it into a large griddle bread.

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-I'm going to put it onto this.

-Yup.

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This is called a thivel.

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That is more or less how the very earliest sort of tharth cake or

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-parkin was made.

-Yup.

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We've now got to get it off there, so we have another tool,

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which is called a spurtle.

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So, you've got your thivel, your spurtle...

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So, it's a pizza wheel and a spatula!

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The bread is cooked on a griddle for about ten minutes on each side.

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Once you get this crisp on the outside, and soft and sticky on

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the inside, and the thing you would drink with it is not tea, but ale.

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That's delicious, isn't it? I'd have that any day of the week.

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And that's how it stayed for centuries.

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But in this cookery book,

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hand-written in the 1830s by Yorkshire woman Mrs Morton,

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we discover the revolutionary baking ingredient that changed parkin for ever.

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Bicarbonate of soda.

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This sort of recipe actually makes the flat half-baked parkin

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extinct within a few decades.

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So, we're actually going to make that one now.

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One of the first, certainly the earliest parkins.

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We're mixing the oats, treacle and butter together.

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And what else goes in there?

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Well, we've got to put ginger in.

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So this is, you can see I'm being very, very generous with that.

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Oh yeah, aren't you just.

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-Shall we put the eggs in while you're here?

-Go ahead.

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We've got the rising agent going in now.

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-Just one spoonful, OK?

-Yup.

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Now, don't stir it in just yet,

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because there is a final ingredient which was used - vinegar.

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In the original recipe, it was gooseberry vinegar,

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but we're using some white wine vinegar here.

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-Of course, this is acid...

-Yes.

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..and it will react with the carbonate to produce a fizz.

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There's your rising agent.

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Exactly, so if you stir that in.

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The treacle is also quite acid, and that'll react with the bicarbonate.

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The mixture is left to rise for 24 hours,

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then poured into a lined tin and baked for about an hour.

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It's incredible to think actually that that started life as that.

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That hard biscuit has ended up as quite a light, aerated cake.

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Bicarbonate is the thing that did the trick.

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But this is not the only afternoon treat given a lift by this

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miracle ingredient.

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By combining yeast with bicarb, you can create some really interesting

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effects, like in the quintessential teatime favourite, crumpets.

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My nan used to make them when I was a little kid.

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Big, big treat for us. You've got yeast and bicarbonate of soda.

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So, actually, the two of them

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work in tandem to create something that is unique.

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Start by mixing equal amounts of plain and strong flour.

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The strong flour extra gluten helps give the crumpets structure,

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whilst the plain flour keeps the texture soft and light.

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Now, we're actually going to add our yeast at this stage.

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This is fast action yeast.

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What it does is, it's got a vitamin C in it,

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it's got ascorbic acid in there, and it activates the yeast

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and gets it up to speed as quickly as possible.

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And it sort of pushes it along, when it's thinking,

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"Do you know what, I've had enough feeding today,

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"that's enough for me," the vitamin C is, like,

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"Go on then, go on, go on. Eat more, eat more!"

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Dissolve a teaspoon of caster sugar into lukewarm milk,

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now beat that into the mixture to create a batter,

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similar to that used to make pancakes.

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And then you cover it, and leave it for at least 20 minutes,

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to become active.

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That is the yeast that has grown, and then it's fallen back,

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and it forms little crease marks.

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When I was a little boy at my nan's,

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it was the smell of this that I distinctly remember.

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But then she used to work her magic.

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And the magic ingredient is the bicarb.

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Going to add a little bit of water to this.

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Add this liquid slowly to the dough,

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turning it back into a smooth batter.

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See it bubbling and reacting already.

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And all of the sudden, the mixture goes from quite a malleable

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piece of dough to a very batter-ish, cake looking mixture.

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Victorian bakers had the original idea of adding this second raising

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agent, which eventually creates the crumpet's characteristic craters.

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And the bicarb'll start working now.

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It'll start activating with the acid of the yeast.

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And that'll start creating bubbles.

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Now, you need about 20 minutes at that stage, which is

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almost batter consistency, but a little bit more glutinous.

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You see the way it hangs.

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Turn it round again slowly, start breaking it down.

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And then beat it in.

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Perfect.

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Leave for about 20 minutes until it's full of air and bubbling.

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Now it's ready to pour into some greased baking

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rings on top of a hot griddle.

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Get some into each one of the rings.

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Fill the rings only half way up,

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because the batter will expand as it cooks.

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The mixture can't be too thick, because you won't get the bubbles.

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The mixture can't be too thin,

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cos it'll just run out the bottom of the mould.

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You've got to get it just right.

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This is my favourite bit.

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Watching the bubbles appear and burst, leaving little holes

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which will give the crumpets their distinctive, dimpled look.

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We need to leave them to cook for about three to five minutes.

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I won't move them until the bubbles are beginning to set.

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And when they're ready, flip them over.

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All that's going to happen now, it's going to cook the bubbles

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underneath, and they'll be ready to eat.

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Slather a bit of butter and away you go.

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That takes me back to when I was six years old. Fantastic.

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For this and other recipes, you can

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visit the BBC food website.

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Delicious as they are with melting butter, I think

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these are great at the heart of a breakfast with a twist.

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The perfect eggs Benedict.

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Swapping the usual English muffin for a crumpet.

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Here's my recipe for a delicious homemade hollandaise sauce.

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To make it, place three egg yolks

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and a splash of water into a food processor.

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I'm just going to add the juice of half a lemon, straight in.

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And then, begin to mix it, and emulsify the mixture together.

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You can just see it begin to lighten up a bit now, it's blending in well.

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Keep it running while you add the melted butter.

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The secret to a good hollandaise is putting in a little

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bit of butter at a time.

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That looks pretty good.

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Once all the butter has been incorporated,

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season with a little white pepper and salt.

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Mix that together.

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Beautiful mixture.

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I know some guys who really know the value of a hearty breakfast -

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they work at Smithfield's meat market in East London.

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We're doing breakfast down in the bottom in about half an hour.

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-The cafe, yeah.

-Are you in there?

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I'm going to be in there doing crumpets with a difference.

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Many of the butchers and market porters have been up since 2.00am.

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Where better to road test my breakfast.

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I'm fairly confident that they're going to enjoy this,

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because it's my sort of spin on a classic dish.

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That, as a breakfast, you've got your crumpet,

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your poached egg, a little bit of hollandaise, and crispy bacon.

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I just hope they like it.

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I think Mary could do a better job on that bacon.

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It seems to be going down OK.

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It was a lovely breakfast. Really enjoyed it, thank you.

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It was lovely stuff.

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Delicious. Very nice. Best eggs Benedict I've had.

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As the baguette is with France, the bloomer with Blighty and the rye

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with Germany, so is soda bread most closely associated with Ireland.

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With that in mind,

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my next bread celebrates two of their other great exports -

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stout and salmon.

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Stout soda bread is a particular favourite.

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It's the use of the stout in the mix that gives this a very

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pungent flavour.

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Measure out the wholemeal and plain flour.

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I'm not using the strong stuff, because the gluten will fight

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with the bicarb of soda, which is the rising agent.

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Add the salt, bicarbonate, brown sugar,

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buttermilk and the all important stout,

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which will give the loaf a toasted nutty and faintly caramel flavour.

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I've gathered up all these ingredients in the bowl,

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so I've got a nice soft, mixture there.

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I'm not going to knead this, I'm literally just going to fold

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it a couple times, pop it in tin, job done.

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Wholemeal flour is in the mix,

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so I'm going to use wholemeal flour just to dust the table with.

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It's important to shape all soda breads very gently.

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And I don't want to do any more than that.

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I'm happy with that now.

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Now, if you put this in a tin,

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there's only one way it can rise, and that's actually straight up.

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A splash of olive oil will stop the dough sticking to the tin.

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Squeeze it in there, flatten it down a bit,

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leave it to rest for ten minutes.

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There's no rush.

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While that's in the oven, I'm making a simple

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but delicious smoked salmon pate.

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Just tip all that into the blitzer itself.

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Add creme fraiche.

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Add the cream cheese.

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If you want something very quick to impress your friends,

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don't go and buy.

0:20:050:20:06

Just make it. It's very, very simple.

0:20:060:20:08

Now a bit of zing.

0:20:080:20:10

The zest and juice of a lemon, and a bit of horseradish.

0:20:100:20:13

Adds that little bit of kick to it, a little bit of heat.

0:20:130:20:15

Some dill.

0:20:150:20:17

Just roughly chop it,

0:20:170:20:19

most of it will get blitzed in the mixer anyway.

0:20:190:20:22

And that's it.

0:20:240:20:26

Try and keep it rough - you don't want it too smooth.

0:20:260:20:29

Slather this stuff over.

0:20:370:20:39

Delicious. I'm going to have a bite of this one.

0:20:390:20:44

Mmm, I'd have that any day.

0:20:450:20:48

And any time of the day.

0:20:490:20:51

It's delicious.

0:20:510:20:53

I'm after a key ingredient for a rich

0:20:590:21:02

and hearty dish I want to show you.

0:21:020:21:05

-Hello.

-Hi!

0:21:050:21:06

After some cheddar. What have you got?

0:21:060:21:09

The Godminster cheddar, really creamy.

0:21:090:21:11

'I've made different types of soda bread for breakfast,

0:21:110:21:14

'lunch and afternoon tea, but now I'm making one for dinner.

0:21:140:21:17

'as the crowning glory of a classic British casserole.'

0:21:170:21:21

This cobbler is a fuss free, one pot meal.

0:21:240:21:28

A hearty stew with a cheese and rosemary scone crust.

0:21:280:21:32

This is delicious, especially on those cold winter nights.

0:21:320:21:35

Keep the vegetables quite chunky,

0:21:370:21:40

so they retain their shape during the long, slow cook.

0:21:400:21:44

And over here, I've got some stewing steak.

0:21:440:21:48

Coat it in seasoned flour and fry until brown.

0:21:480:21:51

Put the meat to one side

0:21:550:21:57

while you sweat the vegetables in those lovely juices.

0:21:570:22:01

I'm just going to add a good squirt of puree to this.

0:22:010:22:04

It's important that you cook this out,

0:22:040:22:06

because otherwise it remains quite bitter.

0:22:060:22:09

Add a good slosh of red wine, which deglazes the pan

0:22:110:22:14

and gets all those lovely meaty bits off the base.

0:22:140:22:17

Now you need to put the stock in.

0:22:190:22:22

A bit of good beef stock here.

0:22:220:22:23

Pop a bay leaf in there, just turn the heat down to a simmer.

0:22:260:22:29

Just to release all those juices, the vegetables will begin to

0:22:290:22:32

break down, and we'll have the perfect stew.

0:22:320:22:34

I'd say about an hour and a half.

0:22:340:22:36

And leave it alone. Don't touch it.

0:22:360:22:38

Now I'm going to make the cobbles -

0:22:400:22:42

the cobbler bits for the dish -

0:22:420:22:43

which is basically a cheese scone.

0:22:430:22:45

I'm using malt flour, wholemeal flour and white flour,

0:22:450:22:49

all self-raising flours.

0:22:490:22:50

Now the beauty of using self-raising flour is that you don't have

0:22:500:22:54

to bother with the rising agent, it's already in there.

0:22:540:22:56

Most people do have self-raising flour.

0:22:560:22:59

If you've only got plain flour, think of 15 grams

0:22:590:23:01

of baking powder per kilo of flour, will give you self-raising flour.

0:23:010:23:06

I'm just going to add a little pinch of salt to that as well.

0:23:060:23:13

And I've got some rosemary in here.

0:23:130:23:17

Fresh rosemary's fantastic in this, it really is.

0:23:190:23:22

It's got such a pungent flavour.

0:23:220:23:25

Married up with a very strong mature cheddar cheese, it's gorgeous.

0:23:250:23:30

Just chop it up roughly, that'll do.

0:23:320:23:37

That goes straight into the mix as well.

0:23:370:23:40

Now I'm going to add some grated cheddar to this, a very strong one.

0:23:400:23:44

A good, mature cheddar.

0:23:440:23:45

There you go. About 150 grams of that goes in.

0:23:510:23:54

Quite a lot, you think.

0:23:540:23:57

Going to hold some of this back, to put on the top

0:23:570:24:00

and that'll just melt into the scone, as well.

0:24:000:24:04

So, just blend all the ingredients together, so it goes into the flour.

0:24:040:24:09

The last ingredient to go in there is your full fat milk.

0:24:090:24:13

This gives a little added richness to the scones.

0:24:130:24:16

Stir that round.

0:24:160:24:18

There are different schools of thought on how to mix the ingredients.

0:24:200:24:24

Some say with a flat-bladed knife, others say a mixer.

0:24:240:24:29

Me? I just get my hands in.

0:24:290:24:31

I've been asked a few times about the difference between a "scoan"

0:24:310:24:36

and a "scohn". There's no such thing as a "scohn". It's called a "scoan".

0:24:360:24:40

End of conversation.

0:24:400:24:42

In fact, the name scone is said to derive from the Dutch

0:24:450:24:48

word for fine white bread - schoonbrood.

0:24:480:24:52

Give it a little bit of a working, but not too much.

0:24:520:24:56

As with all other soda breads I've made,

0:24:560:24:58

I'm just lightly bringing the dough together.

0:24:580:25:01

The worst thing you can do is overwork it,

0:25:010:25:04

which would make the scones hard and chewy.

0:25:040:25:07

When I cut my scones, if you cut it with the straight side,

0:25:070:25:11

they're, like, really posh scones.

0:25:110:25:13

If you cut it with that side, that's, like, common as muck.

0:25:130:25:17

I used to have scones like that.

0:25:170:25:19

And now I have them like that.

0:25:190:25:21

The secret when making a scone, whether it's savoury or sweet,

0:25:210:25:25

is actually to have a bit of height to them.

0:25:250:25:27

Don't be scared. Put your cutter in, cut right through.

0:25:270:25:32

And again.

0:25:320:25:34

And again. And again.

0:25:370:25:39

Just take your scones out, pop them to the side for now.

0:25:410:25:44

To give the scones a golden glaze,

0:25:440:25:47

brush the tops with a little egg wash.

0:25:470:25:49

Try not to get it too much down the sides, because it just

0:25:490:25:52

restricts its growth, when you brush the top, cause when you bake it,

0:25:520:25:56

or indeed stew it which is what's going to happen to these,

0:25:560:25:59

it actually acts like a glue and prevents them from growing too much.

0:25:590:26:03

These scones can be made on their own.

0:26:030:26:06

Just bake them for fifteen minutes for a light texture

0:26:060:26:09

and a cheesy crust.

0:26:090:26:10

But these raw scones are going into a cobbler,

0:26:120:26:15

and they'll soak up all those meaty juices.

0:26:150:26:19

Perfect.

0:26:190:26:21

Now what I'm going to do is just lay these scones on the top,

0:26:210:26:23

like so, get some of this cheese,

0:26:230:26:28

laying the cheese onto the top.

0:26:280:26:31

Again, this is going to add a little bit of crust to it, as well.

0:26:310:26:34

That blends really well with the rosemary inside the scone.

0:26:340:26:37

You've got plenty of cheese in there, as well.

0:26:370:26:39

This goes into the oven and that'll crisp up the scones on the top

0:26:390:26:42

and bake the scones, as well.

0:26:420:26:45

I've invited a couple of the guys I met at Smithfield market to

0:26:480:26:52

pop by and test my hearty beef cobbler.

0:26:520:26:55

Here you are, guys. This is a hearty meal for you.

0:26:580:27:01

It's basically a beef cobbler, with cheese scones in it.

0:27:010:27:05

I think you'll enjoy this, guys.

0:27:050:27:07

Tuck in, and tell me what you think.

0:27:070:27:09

Yeah, that's good.

0:27:130:27:15

Mmm, I've got a recipe for Carmen.

0:27:150:27:18

And that crispiness on the top from that cheese works really well

0:27:180:27:21

with it.

0:27:210:27:23

I think with the meat and the sauce...

0:27:230:27:25

It's really good.

0:27:250:27:26

It's tasty, isn't it?

0:27:260:27:28

It's absolutely delicious.

0:27:280:27:30

You can have some more if you want some.

0:27:300:27:31

-I'll have a bit more.

-Yeah, please.

0:27:310:27:33

I've showed you the quickest loaves to bake, not by using yeast

0:27:360:27:40

but by using bicarbonate of soda as the main rising agent.

0:27:400:27:44

'I hope I've inspired you to turn your hand to baking soda

0:27:440:27:48

'breads, for breakfast...'

0:27:480:27:50

Best eggs Benedict I've had.

0:27:500:27:52

'..lunch...'

0:27:520:27:53

I'd have that any day.

0:27:530:27:55

'..and dinner.'

0:27:550:27:56

Next time, I'm going to tackle enriched breads.

0:27:580:28:01

'I'll show you how to master British lardy cake.'

0:28:030:28:07

That's pretty good.

0:28:070:28:08

'An Italian loaf perfect for any special occasion.'

0:28:080:28:12

Absolutely delicious.

0:28:120:28:14

'Danish pastries with a savoury twist,

0:28:140:28:17

'and a brioche crown stuffed with the flavours of the Med.'

0:28:170:28:21

-To baking bread.

-To baking bread.

0:28:210:28:24

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