Enriched Breads Paul Hollywood's Bread


Enriched Breads

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In Britain, we spend over three-and-a-half billion pounds

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on bread every year.

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I come from a family of bakers,

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but I still want to encourage you to bake your own bread at home.

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Smell that is coming off that is...

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is fantastic!

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I think every home is improved by it,

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so I want to show you that making bread in your own kitchen

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is much more satisfying than buying a loaf...

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..because it's a feast for your family and for your senses!

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'The smell of it...

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'the feel of it...'

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Beautiful stuff!

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'..the look of it...'

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Not like the ones you buy in the shops. It's more special than that.

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'..the sound of it...'

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This is a beautiful loaf.

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..and the taste of it.'

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Wow!

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It just tastes so good. You've got to try it.

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I want to show you that making bread is simple, really.

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You mix...

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knead...

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prove...

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shape...

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prove again, then finally... bake.

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Some loaves I show you may seem complicated,

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but with time and focus you can grasp them all,

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as I will guide you every step of the way.

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Once you've mastered them, I'm going to reveal

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how bread can be much more than just a loaf.

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'It can be a meal in itself.'

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One of the only things that will keep my mouth shut!

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So, there's no excuses. Get baking!

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In this last programme of the series

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we are tackling more challenging types of bread -

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enriched doughs that use eggs, butter, milk and sugar

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and often involve chilling doughs in the fridge.

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There are some new techniques to practise, like layering.

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So, these may be breads to try

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when you have a little bit more time on your hands,

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but they taste absolutely fabulous

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so I know they are well worth the effort.

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Really good. >

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I'm going to show you how to make British Lardy Cake...

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Danish pastries with a savoury twist...

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a brioche crown stuffed with the best of the Med...

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and, first of all,

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an Italian-style loaf suitable for any special occasion.

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So, this dough is an enriched dough. And it's like

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a cross between an Easter bread and a Christmas bread.

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It's an enriched dough, full of fruit and full of flavour.

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You start this enriched lemon and orange sweet bread

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in the same way as a normal bread

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with a mix of strong flour, yeast and salt,

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'but then add the richness.'

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Four eggs now in there. This is where the enrichment comes from.

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You've got the sugar, you've got egg and your milk.

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They're the three ingredients that take a basic dough

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of salt, yeast, flour into the enriched world.

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You can see by the colour of that, it's enriched.

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It's lovely and yellow. Now I'm going to tip that onto the bench

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and work it in some flour.

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'An enriched dough often feels more sticky as you first knead it.'

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Just gently bring it together.

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And as it gets softer,

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become more vigorous with it.

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Lovely dough.

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Cultures all over the world have a variety of different breads

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to celebrate certain times of the year, whether Christmas or Easter.

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There's kulich in Russia, which is eaten around Christmas time,

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just topped with icing.

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When you look at British culture, you've got hot cross buns.

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Then of course, you've got your crossover into Easter,

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and you've got your simnel cakes.

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'And perhaps the closest relation to this

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'is an Italian Easter bread, Colomba or Easter Dove.'

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You mix that for ten minutes at least. Then it goes stringy.

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And place it in a bowl to rise for a couple of hours.

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And it'll at least double in size.

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Now, I'll add the ingredients to this.

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The fruit that makes it the celebration bread it's going to be.

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'I'm using dry cranberries for a little sourness,

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'mixed peel and flaked almonds.'

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The zest of two lemons...

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'..and some fragrant orange zest.

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'But do try to avoid the bitter white pith.'

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I'll just add the juice of half a lemon in there as well.

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Begin to fold the mixture into the middle.

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Just incorporate all those ingredients together into the dough.

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It's that heady smell

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of zest and the fruit inside it.

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I'm going to bake this in a tin like this, it's about a seven-inch tin.

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I've put a bit of butter on the side and the bottom

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and I've cut out a little cartouche.

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A cartouche is just basically a circle of silicone paper

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or baking parchment.

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Push that down at the bottom, get your loaf...

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..and pop it in there.

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Just press it down a little bit.

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And then you leave that now to rise.

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It'll take about an hour, hour-and-a-half,

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because there's so much stuff in there.

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It'll just struggle to come up a little bit. But leave it to come up

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until it sits above the level of the ring

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and it'll be ready to go into the oven.

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This is a great basic enriched dough.

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You don't have to stick to this choice of nuts or fruit.

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For a more Christmassy flavour, try tangerine and clementine zest,

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or spices like cinnamon and ground cloves.

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That'll go straight in the oven now - 200 degrees for 20 minutes.

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Now, while that's baking, when it gets to the brown stage

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what we're going to do is put a topping on it.

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We've got two egg whites in here, to which I'll add

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ground almonds, caster sugar

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and just mix all this together. And it forms a little paste.

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It will create a nice shine and on top of that we'll put

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flaked almonds and it gives a nice crispy top to your bread.

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Coated with its sweet, nut-crammed, crunchy topping,

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it goes back in the oven for another 15 minutes.

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Let's have a try of this.

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You can tell it's a bread

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because you've got that slight bit of chew to it,

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that little bit of tautness that you feel on the crumb.

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Perfect.

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It's a great bread.

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I'll have another piece.

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Absolutely delicious.

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'Recently, people have been getting into baking in a big way,

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'with more and more groups coming together to share recipes,

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'tips and their best bakes.

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'From the Band of Bakers Baking Club in South East London,

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'I'm being joined by Naomi, John and Gemma.

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'They're all pretty confident about making cakes and biscuits

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'but the idea of enriched breads is more testing

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'so I'm going to show them how to make one that anyone can manage.'

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Today I'm going to show you how to make a very classic British dish.

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A classic lardy cake.

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Now, this has been around in this country for a long, long time

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and it's a celebration dish.

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It's normally eaten around harvest time.

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-I know you're part of a baking club...

-Yes.

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You make cakes, breads?

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It's a mix, really. A lot of cakes,

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a few savouries, pastries, things like that.

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So you're going to be all right at bread, then, aren't you? Especially with me!

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To start with you need to make a base dough.

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'Again, it's a standard bread dough of flour, yeast and salt,

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'but this time it's not suitable for vegetarians.'

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Lard is fantastic, actually, in a bread,

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and it does have an inherent flavour.

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We're using the butter and lard together.

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Just use all the water up and then it should all disappear.

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Get your hands in there now, pick up the residue

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and push it into the dough.

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It's all about incorporating your ingredients.

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'Now to the kneading.'

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Flatten the dough down onto the table.

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'And everyone has an opinion on how vigorous to be.'

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Come on!

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Argh!

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'Well, I do.'

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Someone's just stood you up and you're left there in the rain

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and you're thinking, "I'll kill him."

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That's how you do it, how you get the energy that you need to do this.

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That's all you do to someone that's stood you up? Is that it?

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Is that the worst you can do?

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Roll it up...

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and then tuck it under.

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Beautiful and smooth, isn't it?

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-Mine's got a funny dimple in the middle.

-That's OK. That's fine.

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What we'll do is get your bowls back again.

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Cover it up

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and we'll leave this until it's grown a bit.

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'Once it's been proved for an hour, it's time to layer the lardy cake.'

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What I want you to do is roll it

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roughly to the length of the rolling pin.

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Maybe a little bit longer.

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Take a third of the lard

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and then just spread it equally over the dough.

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The same with the butter.

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Break up your sugar a little bit,

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spread that over the top.

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And then a third of the fruit.

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Push them into the dough itself.

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Now, you want to fold this over a third.

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Then you grab this bit here and fold that over the top as well.

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Then what you want to do is roll it out to exactly the same shape again.

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-How's that? Sort of a rectangle.

-OK.

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So you've got a layer of dough, fruit, dough, fruit, dough.

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"Dey do, dough, don't dey, dough?" OK?

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So, what you then need to do is then build another layer.

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'Historically, when ovens were only fired once a week... '

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Fold it again.

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'..any dough not used for making the daily bread was transformed

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'into richer products, like lardy cake,

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'earning their alternative slightly-less-appetising name -

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'scrap cakes.'

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Now you're beginning to see the fruit coming through.

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'After folding three times, roll out to the size

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'and shape of your baking tin.'

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Use your fingers, just to neaten it off.

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'Once its risen for a further half-an-hour, it goes into the oven

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'at 220 degrees for about 35 minutes.'

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'I just hope our lardy cakes will be the toast of the baking club's members

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'who've assembled with their celebration breads.'

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Hi, we just wanted to say thanks for coming.

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It's nice to see you all again.

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And thanks for bringing so many of your breads. They look delicious.

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Dig in and enjoy and have a good time.

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Leave some space for the lardy cakes as well

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which these guys have been making.

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'It seems rude not to offer some...judgments.'

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It's a little tanned.

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A little tanned?!

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It's a lovely shape.

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They taste great.

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It's like doughnuts in South Africa.

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They really do taste good.

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They do look like my garden

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after we haven't cleaned it after the dog...

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LAUGHTER

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Just put a bit of coconut on it!

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'Having done my bit to encourage some enthusiastic bakers,

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'it's time for us all to taste the lardy cakes.'

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That's really good.

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That's very nice, isn't it? It's very rich.

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It's so light. That's really tasty. They're all very good.

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-They'd pass the test with me.

-I don't know if it was doing it all together,

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but it was a lot easier than I would have expected.

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-It's simpler than you expected?

-Yeah.

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Now you've all got to try it.

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You've got to eat it all.

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'Lardy cake, as the name suggests,

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'skirts the border between bread and cake.

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'My next recipe is the Danish pastry.

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'Though, tellingly, in Denmark it is known as wienerbrod, or Viennese bread.'

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'Chilling in the fridge for one hour,

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'my basic bread dough has been enriched with one egg,

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'milk and sugar.'

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Rolling pin in the middle.

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Roll up and roll down.

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'The enrichment, however, doesn't end there.'

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Over here are the magic ingredients.

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Good quality unsalted butter...

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which is very cold.

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Bang out your butter.

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'I'm going to fold this butter into the dough, just like the lardy cake,

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'and it'll give my Danish pastry its characteristic flakiness.'

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Perfect. Move the butter to the dough.

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Grab the ends, fold it over half the butter...

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..like so. So, you have the basics of a pastry.

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Dough, butter, dough, butter, dough.

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Knock it out from the middle up.

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Middle down.

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If you go from the top all the way up,

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you're just pushing all the butter up, all the way up to the top.

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You roll up.

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Roll down.

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Fold it over.

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Fold it over again.

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Now you need to chill this down

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and the only reason being is that butter is now soft

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and I want to harden it up again.

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Then we roll it again, fold it again.

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You need to fold it three times. Then it's ready to use.

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'When you've done that the dough is ready to be rolled out.'

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Quite thin, so about 5mm in thickness.

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Tack one side down to the bench. You'll see why later.

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'It's now ready for the filling of caramelised onions,

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'mushrooms and a good grating of Emmenthal cheese.

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'Neatly fold over the front edge and begin to roll up towards you.'

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Now you understand why we've got the tension.

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'By tacking it down to the work surface,

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'you're able to roll it up tightly.

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'Take off the ends, which will have next-to-no filling.

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'Divide the roll up evenly.'

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There we have it.

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Beautiful mushroom and onion and Emmenthal pastries ready to rise.

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So they're going to be left to prove now in a bag.

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'After proving for a couple of hours, brush with egg wash

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'and top with more Emmenthal.'

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These are going to be baked at 200 degrees for 20 minutes.

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Buttery.

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Ah, it's gorgeous.

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For this and other recipes in the series go to the BBC food website.

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'It's not surprising something so delicious is eaten all over the world.

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'But there's another Scandinavian country now putting

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'their enriched breads on the British baking map.'

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-Hello, Daniel.

-Hello, Paul.

-Nice to meet you.

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'I'm in north London to meet Daniel Carlson,

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'a baker from Gothenburg in Sweden.

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'He's going to show me a classic Swedish celebration bread - semla.'

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I've heard all about semla. I know a little bit, its name,

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-and that's it.

-Its supposed to be eaten on Shrove Tuesday.

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So you're supposed to eat yourself fat before Lent so you could fast.

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Yeah, I've done that a few times, to be honest.

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So where does the name semla come from?

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The name comes from the Latin semilia, I think,

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which means fine flour.

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OK. Now, I see a load of ingredients in here. Is this cardamom?

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That's cardamom. Whole cardamom and ground.

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Cardamom is really popular in sweet stuff in Sweden.

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'The basic bread mix is strong white flour, yeast, salt,

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'a little sugar and a little bit of butter.'

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-Is that the whole lot goes in there?

-Uh-huh.

-That's a lot.

-Yes.

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If I break this up first... Have you ever done this by hand before?

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-In school. A long time ago

-In school?!

-Yeah.

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'Further enrichment comes from a couple of eggs

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'and some full-fat milk.'

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Is it normally quite a dry mix or a wet mix?

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I want the dough to be a little bit wetter for these ones.

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I like doing things by hand.

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If you get a problem with your electric in any way at all,

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you know you've always got your hands to fall back on.

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'Being hands-on has its limits... when you're getting on a bit.'

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-How long would you normally mix this in a mixer?

-Ten minutes.

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Ten minutes in a mixer?! Right. OK. There's your dough.

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Stick that in a mixer.

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'Once proved, baked and cooled,

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'the buns are ready for the next stage...'

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You mustn't get the lid too thin

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because then they will dry out.

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'In Sweden, Shrove Tuesday is know as Fettisdagen or Fat Tuesday

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'and, preparing for it, Daniel will personally fill

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'a couple of thousand of these.'

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What's in there exactly?

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Most bakeries have their own secret recipe for the cream

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because that's our competition in Sweden -

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the best semla in the city.

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You can't tell me the exact recipe, but rough ingredients?

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Marzipan or almond paste, and some put custard inside as well.

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The cream.

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-Not many calories in this, then, Daniel, is there?

-No, none at all.

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Eat yourself slim, that's what I say.

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-We need to do one more thing.

-OK.

-Icing sugar.

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-And that's it?

-And then that's your semla.

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Wow. I wouldn't have expected that from Sweden

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because it's got a little bit of Britishness to it as well.

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'Even with my big mouth, this might be a challenge.'

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Where to start?!

0:19:260:19:27

Now, most people take the lid off first.

0:19:300:19:33

Well, thanks for telling me that now!

0:19:330:19:35

That cardamom with that sweetness coming through from the marzipan

0:19:390:19:43

-and the cream...

-It's delicious, isn't it?

-Delicious.

0:19:430:19:46

'The more traditional way to serve it at home is with warm milk

0:19:460:19:50

'infused with a stick of cinnamon.'

0:19:500:19:51

-It almost turns into a pudding, doesn't it?

-Yes.

0:19:510:19:55

When was the last time you had it like this?

0:19:550:19:57

Last Pancake Day.

0:19:570:19:59

-Good, isn't it?

-I really enjoy that.

0:20:030:20:06

I think the marzipan and then you get the coolness of the cream

0:20:060:20:09

and then the hot coming from the milk...

0:20:090:20:12

I think the hot milk is a fantastic idea.

0:20:120:20:14

When you were a boy, was this one of your favourites?

0:20:140:20:16

I think it's everyone's favourite in Sweden.

0:20:160:20:19

You won't just have one semla. You'll try and eat as many as possible.

0:20:190:20:22

You want to eat as many as possible!

0:20:220:20:25

'I feel my family will be getting these lovely, comforting buns,

0:20:250:20:28

'as well as pancakes, next Shrove Tuesday.

0:20:280:20:31

'I've saved something till last that will test even the keenest baker.

0:20:340:20:38

'It's a table-topping celebration bread,

0:20:380:20:40

'inspired by six years I spent working in the Mediterranean.'

0:20:400:20:44

I'm going to make a savoury brioche crown

0:20:440:20:48

which is going to be filled with mozzarella, Parma ham

0:20:480:20:50

and a little bit of Parmesan cheese.

0:20:500:20:52

'I'm enriching the basic dough of strong white flour, salt and yeast

0:20:560:21:00

'with eggs and milk.

0:21:000:21:02

'I'm using a mixer for speed, as this wet dough takes a long time

0:21:050:21:08

'to work by hand.'

0:21:080:21:09

What I'm using is the hook.

0:21:090:21:12

And let that mix together.

0:21:130:21:15

What you're doing is fully developing a dough by mixing it properly,

0:21:170:21:21

making it glutinous, even with the eggs in.

0:21:210:21:24

'To create the glorious yellow brioche dough, start adding butter.'

0:21:240:21:28

And that will soften down the mix. You won't be able to work with it

0:21:280:21:32

so you have to chill it down before you use it.

0:21:320:21:34

It's a classic way of making a brioche.

0:21:340:21:36

A beautiful, soft, sticky dough.

0:21:440:21:47

The butter's gone into the already glutinous bread

0:21:470:21:49

and made it shiny.

0:21:490:21:51

It's in there. It's a beautiful glossy mixture

0:21:510:21:55

and that's exactly how it should be.

0:21:550:21:57

You need to bring out your food wrap.

0:21:570:22:00

When you've chilled it down, the butter solidifies in the dough

0:22:000:22:04

and then you can work with it.

0:22:040:22:05

So, grab your brioche, it comes out in one lump.

0:22:060:22:09

Pop this straight in the fridge.

0:22:110:22:14

'After a couple of hours in the fridge,

0:22:170:22:20

'make sure your ingredients are lined up and get ready to rumble.

0:22:200:22:24

'You have to work fast with this dough before the butter melts.'

0:22:240:22:28

What I'm going to do is roll this out to a big rectangle.

0:22:280:22:32

I'm going to tack one bit down to the table here.

0:22:330:22:36

'Just like the savoury Danish pastry,

0:22:370:22:40

'tack this down at the end nearest to you.'

0:22:400:22:43

Start with your Parma ham.

0:22:460:22:49

Lay them all over the top of the dough.

0:22:490:22:52

I love Parma ham. I'm only putting things in that I like.

0:22:530:22:57

I think the Parma ham really adds to this recipe.

0:22:570:23:00

On top of that, I'm going to put some buffalo mozzarella.

0:23:000:23:03

Just rip pieces and put it all over the top.

0:23:030:23:06

It'll take at least three. You want plenty of cheese in here.

0:23:060:23:10

Add some basil to this.

0:23:110:23:13

Just roughly tear it up.

0:23:130:23:15

I mean, basil and mozzarella, what's there not to like?

0:23:150:23:18

And then finally, get some good Parmesan.

0:23:180:23:21

This is the bit where you roll it up.

0:23:220:23:25

Fold over the top bit

0:23:250:23:27

and then you begin to roll up.

0:23:270:23:30

As you roll it,

0:23:300:23:31

just pull it back to give you that tension that you need.

0:23:310:23:35

Taking off some of that excess flour...

0:23:360:23:38

..and then you need to seal it. There.

0:23:400:23:43

Put a little bit of flour on the bench...

0:23:470:23:49

..and then roll it out.

0:23:510:23:53

Start in the middle and then gently...

0:23:540:23:56

don't force it out, you don't want to rip it,

0:23:560:23:58

just nice and gently roll it. Trim off the ends.

0:23:580:24:02

'Well, that was the easy part.'

0:24:020:24:04

And now what you want to do is cut it down the middle.

0:24:050:24:09

Do this carefully as you need to make both halves

0:24:120:24:15

as close to the same size as you can.

0:24:150:24:17

Now you've got to bring these two twists together.

0:24:230:24:26

Hand in a bit of flour.

0:24:280:24:29

One goes clockwise and the other hand goes anti-clockwise.

0:24:290:24:32

Twist. Twist. Twist.

0:24:320:24:36

Twist.

0:24:360:24:38

'It's important to do it quickly to keep the filling inside.'

0:24:400:24:43

Pinch the ends slightly, just to taper them off

0:24:490:24:52

and then turn it into a circle

0:24:520:24:54

and then join it together by pushing it together.

0:24:540:24:57

And there you have your basic couronne.

0:24:570:25:00

Crown is what it means.

0:25:000:25:03

Now I'm going to pop that onto a baking tray.

0:25:030:25:05

Lift it off quickly, pop it on.

0:25:050:25:08

Add a little bit of flour to that.

0:25:100:25:13

And that's it.

0:25:140:25:16

To get to that stage, you should feel very proud of yourselves.

0:25:160:25:20

'After rising for half-an-hour, coat with egg wash...

0:25:230:25:27

'..and a bit of Parmesan.

0:25:290:25:30

'That goes in the oven at 200 degrees.'

0:25:340:25:37

To go with the couronne, I decided to do a spicy salad

0:25:460:25:49

with the main addition of...

0:25:490:25:51

pumpkin.

0:25:510:25:53

'To a base of spinach leaves, add pitted black olives

0:25:540:25:58

'and goat's cheese.

0:25:580:25:59

'Add pumpkin which has been roasted in olive oil, chilli flakes

0:26:020:26:05

'and cumin...

0:26:050:26:06

'..and some gently wilted pak choi.

0:26:080:26:11

'The simple dressing is made with chopped spring onions,

0:26:140:26:18

'red wine vinegar and olive oil.'

0:26:180:26:20

That goat's cheese is melting now with the warm pumpkin.

0:26:250:26:28

'After about 25 minutes in the oven, the crown is ready.

0:26:300:26:34

'Hopefully, my lunch guests Gemma, Naomi and Charlie

0:26:360:26:40

'from the Band of Bakers Baking Club will enjoy my crowning glory.'

0:26:400:26:44

-Here you are. Let me grab you a slice. Look at that.

-Wow.

0:26:440:26:48

What did they say about your lardy cakes for real?

0:26:480:26:52

LAUGHTER

0:26:520:26:54

-Did they like them?

-I think they did, yeah.

0:26:540:26:56

I took some to my neighbours and they really liked them.

0:26:560:26:58

Tuck in, guys. Haven't had a piece myself yet.

0:26:580:27:01

-Is that basil running through the bottom?

-Yes. Yeah, it is.

0:27:020:27:06

-Mmmm. It's very good.

-Raise your glass to baking bread...

0:27:060:27:10

and, of course, your baking club.

0:27:100:27:12

-Cheers.

-Cheers.

-Cheers.

0:27:120:27:15

'In this series, I hope I've inspired you to try your hand

0:27:150:27:19

'at baking bread at home.

0:27:190:27:21

'I've taken you on a journey through bread, from classic British loaves

0:27:210:27:25

'to international flatbreads...'

0:27:250:27:28

Oh, no. That's a disaster.

0:27:280:27:30

'..sophisticated sourdoughs to simple soda breads...'

0:27:300:27:34

Don't you like it?

0:27:340:27:36

'You will have learnt how to mix,

0:27:360:27:38

'knead and prove,

0:27:380:27:40

'how to bake the perfect crust,

0:27:400:27:42

'achieve chewy, airy textures

0:27:420:27:44

'and the richest flavours.'

0:27:440:27:46

That's the fella.

0:27:460:27:48

'I've also shown you how to transform those breads into meals

0:27:480:27:51

'suitable for any time of day or night.'

0:27:510:27:54

I used to have this for lunch. And dinner, actually.

0:27:540:27:57

And if I could have it, I'd have it for breakfast as well.

0:27:570:28:00

'I reckon baking a loaf is one of the most satisfying things

0:28:030:28:06

'you'll ever do

0:28:060:28:07

'and I believe that making bread for your friends and family

0:28:070:28:10

'is fundamentally just a way of saying, "This is home."

0:28:100:28:14

'Happy baking.'

0:28:160:28:18

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0:28:400:28:43

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