Winter Vegetables Raymond Blanc's Kitchen Secrets


Winter Vegetables

Raymond Blanc shares his cooking secrets. He makes roots exciting with recipes including a beetroot salad, watercress soup and celeriac puree with roast duck.


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For the last 35 years, renowned chef, Raymond Blanc, has inspired the world with his cooking.

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It's about celebrating the gorgeous, glorious food and sharing a special moment with your loved ones.

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Now he's opening his kitchen and sharing his secrets.

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I've made all the mistakes which could be made so you don't have to make them yourself.

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Showing with a little effort...

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Food is so, so beautiful.

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..anyone can bring some joy to the dinner table.

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Even the most complicated dish is not impossible to make.

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On Kitchen Secrets, Raymond celebrates the season by unearthing his recipes for winter vegetables.

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Celebrate these wonderful root vegetables which are being dug up.

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From a healthy bowl of watercress soup...

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Oh, look at that.

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..to roasted wild duck accompanied by a rich celeriac puree...

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Wonderful. That celery flavour.

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..a simple lunchtime treat,

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beetroot salad served with hot smoked salmon...

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Look at that, amazing colours.

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..and the perfect vegetarian dinner party dish,

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a colourful winter vegetable salad.

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This is the dish that represents all that I believe in,

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the celebration of the seasons.

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In his Oxfordshire kitchen, Raymond and his team prepare for the day.

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OK, come on guys, Adam. When you look around,

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look at this amazing basket here. That is winter.

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Look, look at this amazing, beautiful potimarron,

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Muscat de Provence, the best pumpkin experience in the world.

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Look at how beautiful, it makes the best pumpkin soup ever.

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Raymond's first dish is a beetroot salad with flakes

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of hot smoked salmon and horseradish creme fraiche.

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Voila.

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Now we can start. I'm going to do a beetroot salad, OK?

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And if you want to you can add this wonderful hot smoked salmon.

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The difference between a smoked salmon and a hot smoked salmon

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is that one is cooked, the smoked salmon is only cured.

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As you can see it's cooked through.

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Oh, we love this flavour of smoking, it really...

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Mm!

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Raymond's using three different kinds of beetroot

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for colour and flavour, including a dark bull's blood variety.

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Look at these wonderful varieties.

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That's a golden one, that's a candy one, what a lovely name.

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Look at that. And look at that beautiful beetroot.

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So they are packed with flavours.

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So I'm going to steam them. So we can boil them or steam them in,

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of course, into a pressure cooker that will take only 20 minutes.

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Here it will take 40.

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Don't boil them to death, please?

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Just nice simmer, that will be fine

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so you keep the texture of your vegetable.

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Now there's very little to do but to wait, OK?

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While the beetroots steam, prepare the salmon.

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So now, I will just take a few flakes.

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What you need is about 50 grams per portion,

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so we just flake it up completely. Tres bien.

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Oh. S'il vous plait, Dan.

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Thank you.

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What I can do and that's purely optional,

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you can serve a little horseradish sauce on the side, should you wish.

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Mix 100 grams of creme fraiche, chopped dill...

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A little je ne sais quoi.

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..and grated fresh horseradish.

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One of my favourite lunchtime meals is roast beef and nice horseradish.

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Very boring, but I think a good man's Sunday lunch.

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Be careful. You can always add, you cannot take away. So taste.

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Hmm. The heat is nice. Lovely.

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After 40 minutes the beetroots are cooked and ready to be peeled.

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Lovely. Now I know all the flavours are present here, so I'm going to cool them down a bit.

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Look at that, amazing colours.

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Cut the beetroot and dress with extra virgin olive oil.

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That's when you use your very best extra virgin,

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not to cook, but for your dressing.

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That is absolutely heavenly.

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A good quality balsamic vinegar and thinly sliced shallot.

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A little bit of pepper.

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Not very much.

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And then all that you do is to stir it.

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Voila. OK, now we serve it.

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Fantastic colours.

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Flake over the hot smoked salmon.

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A tiny little bit of fresh dill, should you wish.

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Then of course you've got your creme fraiche with the horseradish sauce to serve on the side.

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It's a lovely simple dish, which is all about beetroot.

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Dan. A little bit of veg, a bay leaf as well.

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-OK and a clove, deux clove.

-Yep. OK chef.

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Raymond's next dish is roast duck with celeriac puree and a blackberry sauce.

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The dish I'm going to cook today is of course wild duck

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with a celeriac puree and a blackberry sauce.

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So we've got two lovely little wild duck here.

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They're called mallard, OK?

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What I love about the duck, wonderful flesh, beautiful meat

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which melt, really melt in your mouth.

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Really it's not tough if you cook it well.

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If you murder it by over cooking it, well done,

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little bit less hurry because the muscles they fly all the time.

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The duck's legs take longer to cook than the breast,

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so before putting in the oven, cook leg-side down

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in duck fat for seven minutes.

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It's a lovely nice gentle seasoning. It's not aggressive, just right.

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You know just right. All this kitchen is already smelling

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of that beautiful sweet, slightly gamey flavour. Wonderful!

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TIMER BEEPS

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That is ready. Tres bien.

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And a nice colouration here.

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Once the skin on the legs has started to crisp,

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turn them over to cook on the other side for seven minutes.

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Very appetising.

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Gastric juices start to run.

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-Shame it's not 12 o'clock.

-HE CHUCKLES

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When the legs are crisp, turn over onto the breast.

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I'm just now caramelising the breast, just for one minute.

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So now, these ducks are ready to go in the oven.

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180 degrees for ten minutes for medium rare.

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30 minutes for medium and for well done, well, as long as you want to.

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I'm going to show you now how to prepare a celeriac puree, which will accompany the wild duck.

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Grown for its root rather than its stalks and leaves, celeriac is a variety of celery.

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It's a perfect alternative to potatoes.

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Wonderful. That celery flavour.

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Nobody gives me a commis, so I've got to peel my own vegetables.

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You cannot do it up here, you need a small knife to go around.

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Once peeled, chop the celeriac into equal sized cubes.

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So they all cook in the same time. Voila.

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Poach the celeriac in milk with a pinch of salt.

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Tres bien.

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The gas here has gone off again.

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Argh!

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God!

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Sorry.

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I love it. I love it because everyone's involved.

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It's crazy!

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Simmer gently.

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Never any fast cooking because fast cooking overcooks the outside and doesn't cook the middle.

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So slowly, let the heat permeate.

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So now we have 20 minutes for ourselves where we can have a nice

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glass of water or maybe a little espresso. That would be very nice.

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The celeriac is ready.

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What is simmering away is the moisture, I don't want too much moisture, OK?

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So I'm going to let it simmer away for five minutes. Go away.

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Of course you can do that puree in advance and reheat it,

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unlike mashed potato, which cannot be reheated.

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This one does because all the starch is good, less sticky, much smoother.

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After the steam has gone, puree the cubes in a liquidiser.

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We're going to use a bit of the milk here.

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Tres bien. Very smooth. Lovely flavour. It is so,

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so well worth the effort.

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-Having added a squeeze of lemon juice...

-There's 40 grams here.

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..Raymond makes a beurre noisette -

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a browned nutty tasting butter to enrich the pureed celeriac.

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We'll bring the butter to a temperature which gives a lovely colouration

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and I want that butter to go a slightly hazel look.

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Tres bien.

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And now it's about to happen.

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Ooh, delicious.

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Look at that, that's perfect.

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Now voila, we've got a nice colour here, you can see it here, you see?

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That is lovely, just very simple and lovely.

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Alongside the roast duck and celeriac, Raymond's serving a blackberry sauce.

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It's a lovely sauce, which you can easily make in your own home very simply.

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A little bit of clove,

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a bit of juniper berry.

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Spice up blackberries with a simple marinade.

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So with my clove, one single clove, two juniper berries,

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tiny bit of bay leaf and a sprig of thyme.

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A dash of sugar and it takes on all of those flavours and believe me,

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that process will make that blackberry taste at least three times better.

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Maybe four times, I've never been a good mathematician.

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Fry sliced shallot and field mushrooms in butter.

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Blend them a little bit, just for one minute.

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Add 100 mls of ruby port...

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..and the same amount of red wine.

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Now I can add the blackberries.

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A pinch of salt only. Remember,

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there's quite a lot of spice here, you don't need very much salt.

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That process

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takes about ten minutes.

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When the sauce has simmered gently for ten minutes, puree in a liquidiser...

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It's like a richer mulled wine.

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Voila.

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..and press through a sieve.

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I think that's going to be rather lovely.

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After 12 minutes in the oven, the duck is ready.

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-Tres bien.

-Raymond props up the ducks to rest for ten minutes.

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This relaxes the meat so it releases its juices becoming succulent.

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Adam, please, I need my fork, my small fork.

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Where's my small fork? Bring me back all the time the stuff I'm using. Thank you.

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So now we are really ready to carve.

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Open it up. Voila.

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Guy is joining me.

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We have worked together for a long, long time now

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and I'm going to make him taste the dish.

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Raymond serves slices of duck with the blackberry sauce.

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Voila, the sauce, go ahead.

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Adam, have you got a few crisps, please?

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A garnish of deep fried parsnip ribbons and a helping of the celeriac puree.

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Voila. Bon appetite.

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The cooking is nice, it's not too pink.

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It's lovely.

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It works well.

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I like that.

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If I had that at home I would be very happy, I'd be a happy guy.

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-You're a happy boy, OK?

-Yeah.

-So would I. I think so.

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One vegetable enjoying a renaissance is watercress.

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Long hailed as a super food, it is low in calories, fat free and packed with vitamins and minerals.

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Raymond has come to Alresford in Hampshire to meet Tom Amery,

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who's worked in the watercress business for ten years.

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-Good morning to you, Tom.

-Good morning Raymond.

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-Welcome to the Watercress Company.

-Thank you very much.

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Watercress needs cool flowing water to grow and the spring water that comes into Hampshire

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from the surrounding chalk downs provides the perfect conditions.

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-Is it OK to walk on the watercress?

-It's fine, yeah, we do...

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-Crush it down. I can hear it, you know, screaming.

-Screeching away.

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It's amazing how resilient the crop is Raymond, it will stand up again.

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I didn't have my breakfast, my croissant and my pain au chocolat

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this morning, so I will have bit of watercress. Is OK?

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-Absolutely. You're at the right place, Raymond.

-You know apparently in London, it's what I've read OK,

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I don't know if it's true or false, but apparently watercress was sold by street vendors.

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-Absolutely.

-In 1800 or so, people would eat it like an ice cream, like that.

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I'll take over while you eat that.

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-True or false?

-It's absolutely true. Historically people would consume it daily.

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A lot of it goes back to the medicinal and health benefits of watercress.

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I love watercress, OK.

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I use it in many ways.

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Not just meaningless garnishes but in my food, which is a herb puree or soups.

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There's so many wonderful ways to use it because it is very bittery,

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very strong flavours, packed with mustardy flavours, pepperiness and so on.

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It is absolutely delicious.

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The watercress harvest is cut low to the ground, keeping the stalk as long as possible.

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-Have you see the cool trick here?

-Yeah.

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You've seen it in operation, I think it's time you had a go yourself.

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Well, if you trust a Frenchman that Frenchman is now going to break your machine, would be personally great.

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That's it.

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-That's right. We're going to spin you round.

-OK. I'm spinning, OK?

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-That's good, Raymond.

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I'm cutting the heads off watercress The Frenchman is very good at that.

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Right, let's go and have a look at what we've done.

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I prefer my motorcar.

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We've left a fair bit behind.

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-well it's the first time.

-On the whole that's pretty good.

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At least I didn't destroy your crop. Have I got a job?

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-You certainly have.

-That's very surprising. Very surprising.

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So you taste, always taste. The head, I've just put watercress in my mouth, so have you.

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Here.

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In the kitchen, watercress soup is on the menu.

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Served with a swirl of creme fraiche.

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Watercress should have a much bigger place in our culinary repertoire than to be a simple garnish.

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The first thing that you should do when you make this soup,

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you run into your kitchen, you boil your water.

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Before switching on the lights, you boil your water.

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Adam, 20 grams of butter, please?

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-Oui.

-20 grams of butter. 20.

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Oh. The only fat that's going to go in that soup, OK?

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And I've got an onion. A white onion, but you could use

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obviously a different onion, but that one is sweeter.

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Lovely onions, very, very sweet and all what you need is about that.

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Finely slice onion and stir it into melted butter.

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Add sliced garlic and cook on a low heat until softened.

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So my water's boiling, my watercress is here, my spinach is here.

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Spinach is purely optional.

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It's to just round up a bit of flavour of the watercress,

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but if you truly love watercress just don't put the spinach.

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Now I'm going to add all of the watercress in here.

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Sorry it's too much, guys, it's too much. I'm in trouble.

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Maybe use a larger pan would be better.

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I cannot do a soup into a shallow plate when we need about two kilograms of this.

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Sorry. Adam, butter, please?

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In a LARGE pan add 300 grams of watercress to the sweated onion and garlic.

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That's going to look a lot. You can see - looks like a mountain of watercress

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but actually it's going to wilt down like spinach.

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It looks a lot then you go to a miserable little, not quite like that, but...

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Tres bien. I'm adding my salt, only about six gram of salt, that's all that you need.

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After a 30 second burst of heat...

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Now I add my spinach.

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..add 100 grams of spinach.

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Voila. So it's a great little soup because you can do it really in so little time.

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You can omit the onions if you don't want to. If you want to make it

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really simple remove the garlic, remove the onions, just have water and watercress.

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It will still be, I can assure you, completely delicious.

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Now we're going to add the boiling water.

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As soon as the leaves have wilted down, add half a litre

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of boiling water and leave to simmer for just two minutes.

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Voila. So now it's boiling up and we can get my ice.

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Adam, could I have the ice please. Thank you very much.

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Thank you Adam, merci beaucoup.

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And then I'm going to stop the cooking with ice.

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Completely. And that's a little secret so you

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can retain the flavour, the colour, the textures and all the nutrients.

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You win all the way.

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It looks a watery mess, it's not the most appetising thing now, but you wait later.

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Puree the soup in a blender.

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Look at that lovely watercress, all wilted down.

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That's really a bowl of health, the most delicious simple soup.

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So it's a serious amount of soup here, you can do that for eight friends at least.

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Voila, you press that.

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Voila.

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Now I've got my soup for my many friends.

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Put that away here.

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-BLENDER WHIRRS

-Oh! Interesting!

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When ready to serve, reheat until simmering,

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being careful not to boil.

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I want it piping hot.

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Yes! Oh, my God.

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We've got a lovely soup here.

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I love to see a nice big bowl of soup in the middle of a table.

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To me it's so symbolic of family, of home, of a special moment together.

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Then finish the soup with a swirl of creme fraiche.

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Merci. Oh, look at that, oh. Mm.

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I think creme fraiche is to die for.

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Oh, look at that.

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That's enough.

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Bon appetite.

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I've got my beetroot already done which is brilliant, fantastic.

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They're marinating nicely here. Now serve them tepid.

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Write that down on the recipe - serve tepid. To be served tepid.

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Raymond's final dish is a celebration of seasonal vegetables, a winter salad.

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Steamed beetroot sits atop pumpkin puree,

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garnished with sauteed mushrooms and pan fried mini pumpkin,

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all drizzled with red wine essence.

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It's a beautiful dish really just for a lovely winter day.

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It celebrates these wonderful vegetables which are being so underused.

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Ooh. I'm going to use all that, OK?

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This variety is called Muscat de Provence.

0:22:250:22:29

She's the mother of all pumpkins.

0:22:290:22:31

Of course I get excited when I see this amazing produce. As a cook,

0:22:310:22:35

I know I translate into taste. OK, so now let's cut it.

0:22:350:22:42

Voila. Look at that.

0:22:420:22:44

The colour of the flesh tells me that you've got a very ripe pumpkin here.

0:22:440:22:48

Now, I'll move this beautiful treasure aside here.

0:22:480:22:53

Chunks of peeled pumpkin will make up two elements of the dish.

0:22:540:22:58

Voila.

0:22:590:23:01

Circles of pumpkin cut with a pastry cutter will be fried until golden.

0:23:010:23:05

So you've got a nice little pumpkin, mini pumpkin so to speak.

0:23:080:23:12

And from the trimmings, Raymond will make a pumpkin puree.

0:23:120:23:17

Put the pumpkin trimmings in olive oil for five minutes.

0:23:170:23:21

Put this in here. Oui.

0:23:210:23:23

That's flavour. What I'm extracting here is flavour.

0:23:270:23:31

The right smell already tells you exactly where we are, OK?

0:23:310:23:35

Cover and leave to soften on a gentle heat for ten minutes.

0:23:370:23:40

Meanwhile, pan fry the pumpkin circles.

0:23:400:23:43

Very simple here, I want to brown them on one side to a lovely colour

0:23:440:23:49

and then I will turn them around and finish them off in the oven.

0:23:490:23:53

The pumpkin is better to overcook it than undercook it

0:23:530:23:57

because you get the flavour through cooking, so if you undercook it, it's not very nice.

0:23:570:24:03

Now you've got the right colour.

0:24:070:24:09

It's not beige like English cuisine of of the 70s.

0:24:090:24:12

It's really appetising, it's dark, it's alive.

0:24:120:24:15

Season the pumpkin circles and put them in the oven

0:24:150:24:19

for seven minutes at 170 degrees centigrade.

0:24:190:24:22

Once the pumpkin trimmings have softened...

0:24:240:24:27

Oh! The hot pumpkin!

0:24:270:24:29

..liquidise to make a puree.

0:24:290:24:33

That one is just right. No added liquid, just as it is.

0:24:330:24:36

Salt, pepper, dash of lemon juice and puree.

0:24:360:24:40

We've got a very fine puree here. Just lovely.

0:24:430:24:46

Add olive oil and for a nutty flavour, a dash of hazelnut oil.

0:24:460:24:51

Oh. What a lovely smell.

0:24:510:24:53

I have got my pumpkin puree here, which is ready, just still warm.

0:24:530:24:59

On top of the puree will be bite size pieces of beetroot.

0:24:590:25:02

Raymond has already steamed the beetroot and marinated it in olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

0:25:030:25:09

Now he reheats to develop the flavour.

0:25:090:25:11

-Adam, where are the small leaves?

-They're here, Chef.

0:25:130:25:19

Then afterwards it's up to you what you want to add.

0:25:190:25:22

I've found some lovely little wild mushrooms, lots of wild mushrooms,

0:25:220:25:26

girolle, chanterelle and black trumpets.

0:25:260:25:29

Raymond sautes beetroot leaves...

0:25:290:25:31

-Oh, pardon.

-..and mushrooms

0:25:310:25:35

with a squeeze of lemon juice.

0:25:350:25:38

OK. So now I'll add the girolle. Tres bien.

0:25:400:25:43

The sauce, which will be drizzled over the dish, is a reduction or essence of red wine and ruby port.

0:25:500:25:57

And I'm using the port to cut the harshness of the wine.

0:25:570:26:00

The pan is hot.

0:26:000:26:01

Add 100 mls of port into a hot frying pan.

0:26:030:26:07

When it is reduced by half,

0:26:080:26:10

add the same amount of red wine and star anise.

0:26:100:26:14

Just that much.

0:26:140:26:17

That will set up the pumpkin beautifully.

0:26:200:26:23

When the essence is reduced to a syrupy consistency, leave it to cool.

0:26:230:26:28

Look at that beautiful colour. That flavour will be

0:26:280:26:32

really stunning, too, and now with my little essence here.

0:26:320:26:36

We are now ready to serve the dish.

0:26:360:26:39

First, pumpkin puree.

0:26:400:26:42

Tres bien, very simple. The beetroot leaves, a few beetroot leaves,

0:26:420:26:46

I'm going to add for a nice chew. OK?

0:26:460:26:49

This is wonderful beets.

0:26:520:26:54

Then add your cooked pumpkin circles.

0:26:570:27:00

OK, so lovely.

0:27:000:27:02

Next the warmed marinated beetroot.

0:27:020:27:04

They're a bit on the hot side but you can cool them down on the dish, OK.

0:27:040:27:08

Tres bien. Oh, so lovely.

0:27:080:27:09

Then the sauteed mushrooms.

0:27:140:27:16

And the dish is ready.

0:27:190:27:21

You can make it as simple or as complicated as you want to.

0:27:210:27:25

Raymond tops off the salad with crunchy parsnip ribbons...

0:27:250:27:30

You can either dry them in the oven, OK, or deep fry them.

0:27:300:27:33

..and deep fried sage leaves.

0:27:330:27:36

A burst of little flavours, of sage. Look at that.

0:27:360:27:40

It breaks like glass.

0:27:410:27:43

Finally, drizzle the salad with the port and red wine essence.

0:27:430:27:47

This is the dish that represents all that I believe in -

0:27:470:27:49

the celebrations of the seasons.

0:27:490:27:52

-Carl. There it is. For you, sir.

-Thank you.

-So let's taste it.

0:28:050:28:09

Colourful.

0:28:090:28:11

-The pumpkin's really nice.

-Are you paying me a compliment, Monsieur Carl?

0:28:130:28:17

-I am.

-Which beetroot do you prefer the most?

0:28:170:28:19

The ones we've been trying at the moment, I'd say the gold one, or the candy have been good.

0:28:190:28:23

What a great dish.

0:28:230:28:25

I think another satisfied customer.

0:28:260:28:28

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:28:450:28:48

E-mail [email protected]

0:28:480:28:51

Legendary chef Raymond Blanc welcomes the cameras into his kitchen to share his cooking secrets. Filmed in the lively surroundings of his Oxfordshire restaurant kitchen, this programme features a range of achievable and inspirational recipes for cooks of all abilities.

Raymond makes roots exciting! To start a simple salad of steamed beetroot with balsamic dressing, hot smoked salmon and horseradish creme fraiche. Next up is a creamy yet nutty celeriac puree served alongside a crisp-skinned roast wild duck with blackberry sauce. A simple and stockless watercress soup is a bowl of health on a winter's day and to round off, a celebration of the season: a winter vegetable salad featuring pumpkin, beets, wild mushrooms and a red wine reduction. Along the way, Raymond tries his hand at cutting watercress in Britain's watercress capital, Arlesford in Hampshire.


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