Lamb Raymond Blanc's Kitchen Secrets


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Raymond Blanc is opening the doors of his kitchen for a journey of discovery.

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Cooking is about curiosity, and if I can inspire you to be curious,

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I'll be a very happy man.

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-Divulging the secrets of his simplest...

-Perfectly cooked.

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..And most dazzling dishes.

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-Glorious food.

-Be inspired by his passion.

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Food is so much more than cooking and eating. It's about, living, life!

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Share the secrets of his success.

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The wonderful thing having cooking secrets is the ability to share them with you.

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Tonight on Kitchen Secrets, Raymond reveals his passion for lamb.

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That flavour is a million times better than anything you've tasted before.

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Creating dishes which transform the cheapest cuts

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into those which complement the most expensive.

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From traditional lambs' liver given a delicious twist...

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Oh, what a lovely, lovely nose.

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We like that.

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..To an impressive rack of lamb.

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-This is one of my oldest recipes.

-Raymond reveals how to get

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the most out of this single, special ingredient.

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All that I wanted to do was to show a dish celebrating this wonderful animal from nose to tail.

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In his Oxfordshire kitchen, Raymond's main ingredient for the day is being prepared.

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I would like first to introduce Dan, who has worked with me for five years and is a great butcher.

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He has the best skills, and he's got a lot of strength as well,

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which is very useful, OK, when it comes to breaking down a beast like that.

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What is wonderful at last - young chefs now are connecting with gastronomy.

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That means now we eat the whole of an animal.

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We are being far less wasteful.

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Under Raymond's watchful eye, the lamb is carefully broken down

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to the different cuts he'll be using.

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This shoulder, I'll keep it for later.

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Because I'm going to slow cook it for four hours at 150 degrees.

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Thank you very much for your help.

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Hey, it's not finished. Take that away.

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Raymond's first recipe takes often overlooked lamb's liver and

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transforms it into a mouth-watering treat - lamb's liver persillade.

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Succulent liver with crisp sauteed potatoes, sprinkled with a classic French seasoning.

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I'm sure you will all remember that horrible school liver, lumpy liver,

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thick and overcooked, crucified, murdered. We don't want that.

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We want to cook it quick, to create a beautiful golden crust outside

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to keep the inside very moist.

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So, the cutting is very important.

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-Voila...

-Raymond cuts the liver into slices one centimetre thick.

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This will allow it to cook evenly, staying succulent and tender.

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What I have done here is a little secret.

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You actually soak it, OK, in half water, half milk,

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and about five big pinches of salt.

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By putting water, I'm cutting down the richness of the milk,

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OK, allowing the salt to permeate inside the liver and draw some of the blood.

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Extracting the blood will remove the bitterness and help sweeten the flavour.

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Next, he prepares the herb-packed persillade.

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Persillade has got a big place in the heart of every Frenchman.

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Raymond chops the main ingredient, parsley, then adds chervil, tarragon and sage.

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-Beautiful.

-Before adding two crushed garlic cloves

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and a whole shallot to give the persillade a gentle kick.

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So we have our persillade here.

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-Adam, please.

-Do you want me to take it away?

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-Of course. No, it's OK.

-Yeah.

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Your services are not required, Monsieur Adam.

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I'm very lucky, he's the best tempered chef I have.

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No mutiny.

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Next, Raymond sautees par-boiled potatoes in sizzling rapeseed oil.

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Our potatoes are nicely caramelised.

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A tiny dash of butter, just to give a bit of unctuousity.

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Voila. And they are ready.

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So now, you lower it down.

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He lightly browns butter to create beurre noisette,

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which will add a subtle nutty flavour to the liver.

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So two little slices or slivers

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of liver like that.

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Oh, what a lovely, lovely nose.

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Wonderful nose. We like that.

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Don't season your liver in advance.

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Often the salt withdraws the moisture then you have a pool of water into your pan.

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OK, so season it now.

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That will take only two minutes.

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They are now nicely coloured. You can see it, the difference in colour.

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What's happening here is amazing.

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The juices are leaking out and solidifying themselves at the bottom of the pan.

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By adding water, they will merge together

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into a marvellous little jus,

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then that's when I add my persillade to both my potato...

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..and to my liver.

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A little bit on my liver. Tres bien.

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Voila.

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And I put my water.

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Et voila. And you create a wonderful emulsion here, and you are ready to serve.

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So delicious, so simple.

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Ah, that is a home sweet home.

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-Adam?

-Oui, chef?

-Can you come and join me to have a liver treat?

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-OK, lamb's liver.

-Lovely.

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With sautee potatoes which I used to have in my home, and I know, because you've been to my home.

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-Mm. Yes.

-when Maman Blanc cooked for you, you didn't like her snails.

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They weren't English snails.

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OK. But I hope you like the liver, OK?

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It's better than the school dinners we used to get.

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I bloody hope so!

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That was the last time I tried liver, was at school.

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It's nice with the garlic in there.

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Ah, yes. What is missing is the escargots, Adam, huh?

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Maybe later.

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For Raymond, good quality lamb, bursting with flavour,

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begins with good quality farming.

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He's come to Hampshire to visit one of the country's only organic and biodynamic farms.

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It's run by Raymond's friend, Ex-Formula One champion Jody Scheckter.

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Thank you for the drive, but never again, OK? Next time, I drive you.

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You cook, I'll do the driving.

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Jody rears a flock of around 800 sheep,

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made up of three different breeds.

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They're looked after by shepherd Nigel, who knows just how to select the perfect animal.

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-You feel them on the back, see, on the loin?

-Yeah.

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And then over the rib, and you feel round the docks.

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-So you check up here as well, on that side?

-The top of the tail.

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She likes it very much. She likes Frenchmen. You are ready, girl.

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In the saucepan, on the spit.

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Jody follows a biodynamic philosophy, believing all aspects

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of the farm are interconnected, from the special pasture,

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grown using a unique mix of grasses,

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to the rearing and slaughtering of the animals.

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We've looked at everything, so we start in the soil and we want to get the soil right because everything

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comes from the soil. Then we looked at the grasses.

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If you think a normal farm would have rye grass,

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we have 31 herbs and so you can see the mixture.

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But then how you slaughter the animal is very important.

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If you stress it - you can have the best lamb and the best grass

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and the best breed - if you stress it when you are in the abattoir, you will have bad meat.

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-So you have your own abattoir, on your own land?

-Yeah.

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But it's quite incredible, the vitality and the health of these animals.

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It's always about quality, right from the setting down of the grass,

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selecting the breed, right up to slaughter, right up to the plate, and me, as a chef, believe me,

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I appreciate that, when I have a piece of meat, OK,

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which is beautifully reared, OK, and you know it.

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Raymond's next recipe marries a beautiful cut of lamb shoulder,

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slow-roasted with garlic and herbs,

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served with a creamy potato and turnip gratin, creating a melt-in-the-mouth meal.

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I've got a rather nice piece of shoulder here that my good friend Dan prepared for me.

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That's the cheapest part of the animal, OK?

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So the meat is quite tough, OK.

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And fatty as well.

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So now I'm going to prepare a rub.

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I've got some lovely herbs here.

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Be careful, the herbs are devilish sometimes.

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Rosemary is very, very strong.

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Just a little, OK?

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Three leaves of sage.

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A little bit of marjoram. That is even stronger, bitter sweet, lovely.

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So you mix that with your salt.

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A little bit of olive oil.

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And what you have to do is rub it.

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The shoulder will be cooked slowly for four hours,

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so Raymond coats each side with the oil and herbs

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to help the skin crisp up and infuse the meat with flavour.

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What I have asked my butcher to do is to chop some bones.

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It's a technique I developed many, many years ago.

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The lamb will sit beautifully on the brown bones, so the heat goes right the way through.

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I'm sure you've all experienced at home when you cook your shoulder

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of lamb and then it's all dry and almost burned underneath.

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That won't happen, because the heat will go right the way through and

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you'll be able, once you've cooked that meat, to eat it

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with a spoon, not a knife.

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-Tres bien.

-Lamb bones are inexpensive and available from most high street butchers.

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Raymond caramelises them.

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Browning the bones will create a sweet, rich jus for basting the meat during roasting.

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That will take about ten minutes.

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Again, take a timer. Timer, please, guys.

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-Hello?

-Oui?

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Can you give me my...

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-Did you put it on?

-Yeah.

-OK, merci, OK.

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Another five more minutes...

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I've got a bit of garlic here, and all this has got the flavours, the smell,

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coming in that kitchen, OK, which is completely wholesome.

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To give a bit of acidity to my sauce, to my jus,

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I'm going to put a bit of white wine, OK, and I'm going to boil it first.

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He rapidly boils the wine to remove the harshness of the alcohol.

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I'm rounding up my wine, leaving just enough to give length of flavour to that jus here.

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He then adds water and a few herbs to infuse.

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We are ready now. I want to place my shoulder of lamb...

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My oven is heated at 230. Very high temperature.

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That's the first bit.

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Just for 20 minutes, and then after very slowly at 150 for four hours.

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Give it a good clean up here, guys, Adam, please. Merci.

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So what I'm going to do is a simple gratin of turnip and potatoes.

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They go so well together, especially with that lamb.

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That lamb is so delicious, a man's dish, a serious man's dish.

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I'm going to be in trouble.

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So let's get our turnips. I need about 500 grams.

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Those come from my garden, OK?

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How many potatoes? Three will do. A little bit of sage, or maybe thyme would be better.

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That's a silver thyme, that one.

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Actually, no. It's a lemon thyme.

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It would kill that dish completely.

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Could you give me a silver thyme, please? Thank you.

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OK. Completely different.

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Very lemony. It would kill that dish.

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So beware of your herbs. Get to know them.

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To create a rich, silky gratin, Raymond's using 500 millilitres of whipping cream.

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Its high fat content means it won't split when heated.

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He adds a sprig of thyme...

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That's all what you need. It's very strong here. Merci beaucoup.

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..And two cloves of garlic.

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You bring the cream to the boil,

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and turn it off. Let the garlic infuse into the cream.

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Beautiful colour.

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They're so fresh, they're so juicy.

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They're slippery in your hand.

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Adam, where are you?

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On my break.

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The turnips and potatoes are carefully peeled and thinly sliced

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to ensure they will cook evenly.

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-Such precision requires total concentration.

-Oh!

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That's OK. We lost a tiny little bit.

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It's not a big kitchen drama, so far.

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Next, the herb-infused cream is poured over the vegetables.

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The gratin is then placed in the oven at 160 degrees for 70 minutes,

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while the lamb is briefly removed for basting.

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Immediately, that smell.

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Yes, I'm happy. I'm very happy.

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Any excess fat is removed from the lamb juices before Raymond adds the wine and herb infusion.

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Finally, he turns the temperature down to 150 degrees.

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Voila. I think I'm going to do a couple of other things while my lamb is cooking nicely.

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Can you look after it? Thank you.

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After four hours of gentle cooking in the rich juices,

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the shoulder is ready to come out of the oven.

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And look, that is really the prize.

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Simply water, but it's the flavour.

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You don't need stock cubes. That flavour is a million times better than anything you've tasted before.

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-Very tender, very moist.

-Does your mum cook you...?

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-Oh, just like being at home but better.

-Really?

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Oh, even better. Wow!

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-Just don't tell my mum that.

-No, I would not or I'll be in trouble, OK!

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-Voila. Make it really sharp so if I cut myself it's really a nice clean cut, OK?

-OK, chef, yes.

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Get the lamb complete.

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Next, a recipe which uses one of the more expensive cuts of lamb

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to create an elegant dinner party dish.

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Lamb Provencal, a herb-encrusted rack of lamb, accompanied by a vibrant ratatouille.

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That's one of my oldest recipes.

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It goes back to my tiny little bistro when I started in Oxford,

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with red and white tablecloths and cheap prints of Paris on the wall.

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Oh, lovely, thank you, Adam. Nice sharp knife. My God, lovely.

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Most of this dish can be prepared in advance, making it perfect for entertaining.

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To begin, Raymond is French-trimming the lamb, by removing all the meat and fat from the ribs.

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So we've got the completely clean bones. It's a bit of work but it's quite fun

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if you have nothing else to do.

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He then scores the meat so the Provencal crust will stick to it, and ties up any loose ends.

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That's called a French trim, best end of lamb.

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It's really for a very special occasion, and that's how your butcher should prepare it for you.

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For the first stage of cooking, Raymond browns the seasoned meat in rapeseed oil.

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On the flesh side first.

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This caramelises the outside, creating a succulent, sweet flavour.

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I'm sure you remember

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those meats which are overcooked.

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They are all grey and dry outside, and the middle is red.

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We don't want that. We want just pink right the way through.

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That's why I'm applying gentle heat.

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Voila. We are ready.

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We've got a beautiful colour here, so now, on the top.

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During the second stage, the lamb is roasted at 190 degrees

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for 15 minutes, to cook it perfectly before the Provencal crust is added.

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Raymond prepares this next.

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Tres bien. Now we've got our crumbs.

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To the breadcrumbs he adds a selection of herbs, which must

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be completely dry before processing, so the mixture will stay loose and crumbly.

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-Hello, my little soeur, sister. Ca va?

-Ca va. D'accord.

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OK. OK, t'arrives juste a bon temps.

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Francoise - I've got two sisters...

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TRANSLATION:

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..Francoise is probably the worst cook at home.

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Oui, c'est vrai!

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No, no, she's a very bad cook, seriously bad cook, OK.

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Just, maybe, you can join me. Tu peux me joindre un petit peu, Fran-fran?

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-No problem.

-OK.

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Raymond adds garlic, seasoning and just a dash of olive oil to keep the mixture's sandy texture.

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-Tres bien. Le pulse, the pulse.

-Oui.

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-That's it.

-You just want to make it moist, voila. Moist, like that.

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That smell. Tu sens ces parfums?

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Mmm.

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Oh, oui.

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OK.

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But the smell, the smell is really amazing.

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Raymond generously coats the lamb in Dijon mustard.

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That will act as a glue.

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And you press it.

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That will provide a beautiful crust.

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Voila.

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The lamb is done in three steps.

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The searing, the first cooking, he had 15 minutes.

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You put that and you brush your breadcrumbs,

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and then when your guests arrive you just need ten minutes' cooking.

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And that can be prepared maybe half a day in advance.

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This last ten minutes' cooking warms the meat through

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whilst keeping the herb crust's vibrant colour.

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To go with this dish, I'm going to do a very quick ratatouille.

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Not just any ratatouille, a quick one, and that will take you exactly...

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Well, it depends if you have an Adam in your kitchen to do all the courgettes and everything.

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Raymond is cooking a quick French classic, using a colourful range

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of garden vegetables with garlic, a pinch of herbs and a glug of oil.

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I am going to do it quite fast, actually, so I can keep some of the colours and textures as well.

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The simple, fresh flavours will perfectly complement this special lamb dish.

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After 20 minutes, the ratatouille is almost ready.

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Oh. Good?

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Mmm, excellent.

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And the herb-coated lamb can come out of the oven.

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Mmm.

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C'est tendre? Very tender, huh?

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TRANSLATION:

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Ah, d'un a dix?

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She gives me eight!

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Ah, huit. Voila, c'est ca.

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-Thank you very much.

-Merci. OK.

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In Jody's summer house in Hampshire, Raymond has been invited to cook one

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of his special bio-dynamically reared lambs.

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I've got a very old memory of mine. I was seven years of age, OK?

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In my village there were some Arab people, OK, who were cooking

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a feast in the middle of the village a lamb, and it was harissa.

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And I tasted it, and my mouth was on fire, but the lamb was beautiful.

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-Yeah.

-So I want to re-enact that.

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-We do half of the lamb?

-We do half.

-OK.

-Half for you, half for me. Fine.

0:21:050:21:08

He's a very hard man, you know!

0:21:080:21:11

Having put so much effort into rearing his animals,

0:21:110:21:14

Jody believes in purity of flavour when it comes to cooking them.

0:21:140:21:18

Spit-roasting will take three or four hours,

0:21:180:21:21

so to keep the meat moist, it's crucial to keep it well hydrated...

0:21:210:21:24

-Very good beer, thank you, sir.

-..With beer.

-The lamb will love it.

0:21:260:21:30

With the cooking started, Raymond can prepare his controversial spicy harissa paste.

0:21:300:21:35

It's a serious spice experience.

0:21:350:21:37

I don't know if Jody will like it or not.

0:21:370:21:39

He may never forgive me.

0:21:390:21:41

So my chillies, OK.

0:21:410:21:43

This is a very mild variety, OK, so I thought of you.

0:21:430:21:46

But that should be quite spicy, quite hot. Let's add some cumin.

0:21:490:21:53

Oh, it's very fresh.

0:21:530:21:55

And there's a...ah! Voila.

0:21:550:21:58

Oh! The burn comes later.

0:21:580:22:00

The taste comes first and the burn comes later.

0:22:000:22:03

That's what we want. Top here.

0:22:030:22:06

Let's give it to the lamb. I can smell it already.

0:22:060:22:09

The feast is about to start.

0:22:090:22:11

The meat is then basted with the harissa every 20 minutes until it's ready.

0:22:110:22:16

-Oh, God, the smell is amazing.

-Mmm, mmm.

0:22:180:22:20

Mmm. That old, wonderful smell.

0:22:230:22:26

It's got...dribbling, dribbling.

0:22:260:22:29

-God, it smells so heavenly.

-So are we going to try this?

0:22:290:22:33

-Mm-hm.

-Am I allowed to spit it out?

0:22:330:22:36

Don't you dare.

0:22:360:22:38

Well, that's nice.

0:22:400:22:41

It turns out when it's cooked, quite mild, but you can make it as hot as you want to.

0:22:410:22:45

-Just triple the amount of chilli you put in the paste...

-Yeah.

0:22:450:22:49

And then that would be seriously "hoomph".

0:22:490:22:51

A slow-roast lamb will easily feed 20 people, so there's more than enough for everyone.

0:22:510:22:58

-Oh!

-Mmm!

0:22:580:23:02

Raymond's final recipe brings together

0:23:130:23:16

each cut of lamb on a single plate, all perfectly presented with an array of flavourful accompaniments,

0:23:160:23:22

including braised caramelised shallots and a rich onion puree.

0:23:220:23:27

All that I wanted to do is to show a dish celebrating this wonderful animal from nose to tail.

0:23:310:23:37

And to accompany it, I've got a few little garnishes which are interesting.

0:23:370:23:42

New techniques, new little secrets.

0:23:420:23:45

And the first one, we are going to do our own sun-dried tomatoes.

0:23:450:23:49

So you notice I don't take the core because the core is so tiny.

0:23:490:23:53

We are at home, we are happy.

0:23:530:23:55

No Michelin guide is going to turn up into my home. I hope not.

0:23:550:24:00

No salt. Why?

0:24:020:24:04

Because you don't need it. By drying it, you are concentrating the tomato flavour, so you don't need salt.

0:24:040:24:09

So a little bit of olive oil.

0:24:090:24:12

Oh, they are beautiful.

0:24:120:24:13

We call them in France "la pomme d'amour".

0:24:130:24:16

And of course, Italian romanticising even more than the French, call it the pomodoro.

0:24:160:24:23

It's interesting. And what do the English call it?

0:24:230:24:26

Tomato! Oh, quel dommage!

0:24:260:24:29

What a missed opportunity.

0:24:290:24:31

The tomatoes go into the oven at 100 degrees for two hours

0:24:310:24:35

to concentrate their sweetness, while Raymond starts the shallots.

0:24:350:24:39

Add a bit of olive oil.

0:24:390:24:41

They are braised whole with a few sprigs of thyme, some olive oil and enough water to cover.

0:24:430:24:49

And then, I'm going to add a bit of black pepper.

0:24:490:24:52

Where's the black pepper, Adam?

0:24:520:24:53

-Whole black pepper.

-Whole black pepper? Yes, chef, I'll get that.

0:24:530:24:57

Yeah. When you have a long cooking, use a whole black or white pepper to give a very mild pepper flavour.

0:24:570:25:03

Adam, vive la France, non? Don't feel like it today?

0:25:070:25:10

HE LAUGHS

0:25:100:25:11

Adam. It's time that you mellow down, mon petit.

0:25:110:25:15

None of that nationalism.

0:25:150:25:18

Next, Raymond blends colourful kalamata olives with olive oil

0:25:180:25:22

and water, creating a striking vibrant olive puree.

0:25:220:25:26

Look at that. So stunning.

0:25:290:25:33

You will not get that colour if you use the normal black olives.

0:25:330:25:36

So now, we are going to do the onion puree. I'm not crying.

0:25:360:25:41

I've done so many onions in my life,

0:25:410:25:45

they are onion-proof. True.

0:25:450:25:47

Before they go in the pan, Raymond adds garlic cloves and sage to the onions.

0:25:490:25:53

I realise, actually, my pan is a bit on the small size, OK?

0:25:530:25:58

-That would cover it up and I would have a bit of a problem. Adam, please?

-Yeah.

0:25:580:26:02

-Are you trying for me to fail miserably?

-No, chef. No.

0:26:040:26:08

That looks a lot, but you'll be amazed. It will go "psshhh".

0:26:080:26:14

"Sh...sh".

0:26:150:26:17

About 200 grams of puree.

0:26:170:26:20

The onions sweat gently for 30 minutes over a low heat until their volume has reduced by half.

0:26:200:26:26

Next, after braising for 40 minutes, the shallots are sliced,

0:26:310:26:35

before Raymond lightly colours them for one minute, to caramelise their edges.

0:26:350:26:41

And of course, I use my sight, I use my nose, and I use my clock,

0:26:410:26:48

my timer.

0:26:480:26:49

Look how beautiful they are.

0:26:490:26:51

So that can be prepared well in advance.

0:26:510:26:54

Notice, I'm getting much more technical.

0:26:540:26:58

The reduced onions and garlic are blended with 50 millilitres of olive oil until smooth and silky.

0:26:590:27:04

It's then gently heated through.

0:27:040:27:07

Now we are ready to bring together all of these elements onto one single dish.

0:27:070:27:12

A brushing of the olive paste forms a base for the caramelised shallots and punchy sun-dried tomatoes.

0:27:120:27:19

Then a warm layer of onion puree is spread underneath a sliver of slow-roasted shoulder...

0:27:190:27:23

Voila.

0:27:230:27:25

..A rib of herb-encrusted lamb, and the liver, straight from the pan.

0:27:250:27:31

Oh, look at the colour of that jus.

0:27:370:27:39

I would like to introduce Sam. He's very shy.

0:27:540:27:56

He is a senior sous chef in my kitchen. OK, so shall we taste?

0:27:560:28:00

Of course, chef.

0:28:000:28:02

Very tender.

0:28:040:28:05

Lovely flavour, huh?

0:28:050:28:07

-Lovely flavours.

-Mm-hm.

0:28:070:28:08

-Very, very nice.

-Aren't you in heaven?

-I am.

0:28:080:28:11

So one out of ten, how much?

0:28:110:28:13

I reckon, all the components, very nice, definitely an eight and a half.

0:28:130:28:18

Oh, it's above seven, is it?

0:28:180:28:20

Even with liver.

0:28:200:28:22

For recipe details, please go to:

0:28:240:28:27

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:28:450:28:48

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0:28:480:28:51

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