Episode 1 Rick Stein's Spain


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I'm leaving Plymouth for Spain, the start of a culinary odyssey,

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where I hope to discover great food in places that many might consider

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are well off the well-worn path to the Costas.

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Well, I've got particular sort of soulful interest in Spain, really.

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I first went there when I was eight.

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My lasting memory was the food and the sort of strangeness of it

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and I have, at the back of my mind,

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a sort of sense of the remoteness of Spain but, of course,

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I've been there many times since

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and you have, at the back, the sort of memories of the civil war,

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the Catholicism, the austerity of it.

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But now a sort of... a lightening of everything

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and I'm really fascinated to go out there

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and see how the contrast works.

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Is it still the old Spain or is Spain becoming part

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of the sort of new Europe, and is the food changing?

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Is it still the old sort of bean stews and quite heavy peasant food,

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or is it the food of all those you know, Michelin starred chefs

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that are sort of ruling the world as far as food is concerned?

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It's just going to be so interesting.

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The ferry from Plymouth to Santander arrived at lunch time,

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our lunch time, not 2:30 in the afternoon, when the Spanish eat.

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I thought I could smell cooking from the nearby houses around the port.

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I was famished and so I made a beeline to the fisherman's quarter,

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a stones throw from where the boat comes in.

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Here, various restaurants and bars were vying for trade

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giving open cookery demonstrations outside their establishments.

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Most of them were making forms of paella...

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Something I've been thinking about all morning.

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Bravo!

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HE SPEAKS SPANISH

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OK, oh, yeah, no problem.

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He said come back in 20 minutes and I did and it didn't disappoint.

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As I thought, that's as good a paella as I've ever had. Lovely.

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I'm really looking forward to the next dish after the paella

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which is merluza a la plancha

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which is hake cooked on a griddle but doesn't "a la plancha" sound

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so much better than griddled hake?

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Spanish restaurants like this are a bit like Chinese restaurants.

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There's no decor anywhere. Stone floor, no carpets

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and one of the things that you always notice

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in Spanish restaurants - the telly is on all day, day or night.

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Nobody watches it, but it's there in the background.

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And also, the thing I like about it

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is that people are allowed to smoke in here. Now, I don't smoke myself,

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but there's a certain sort of freedom,

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a sort of bohemianism about Spain.

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You know, you can elect

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to have smoking in your restaurant or bar or not.

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Seems so much more sensible.

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Finally, have to mention the wine.

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I mean, they're so lucky on the North coast of Spain

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to have Albarino. It's actually from Galicia.

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It's got a lovely sort of lemony acidity, SO good with seafood.

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Yum.

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Just thinking really about, er, what British people think of Spanish food

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and I'm very much conditioned by my parents

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who used to say it was filthy. Everything's swimming in olive oil.

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And in literature, people like Byron, Virginia Woolf

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all said the same thing -

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Fatty meat, dry, old, stale bread, all that sort of thing.

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But if you think about it, in the last 40 years,

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British people have become much more aware of foreign food

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and I suspect the truth of it is that it's just foreign

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and I think when I find this food, the food I'm looking,

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sort of hidden dishes, the peasant dishes,

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then I'll find them very much more acceptable than my parents

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or Virginia Woolf or indeed Lord Byron.

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MUSIC: "El Cid" by Miklos Rozsa

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This music, by Miklos Rozsa, is really important to me

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because as a teenager, I saw El Cid around seven times

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and from that cinematic moment, I was hooked on Spain.

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Up until the 20th century, writers how came here

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were more like bold adventurers.

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They came for its wild and remote landscapes, spiritual sustenance

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and yes, the whole romance - duende, as they say - that is Spain.

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But not for its food.

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But the real everyday food of Spain and it's part in history

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will be the centre of my quest.

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I'm helplessly addicted to Monty Python.

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I remember that bit in The Life of Brian

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when this Jewish guy says, "What have the Romans done for us?"

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Well, you could imagine a Spaniard saying,

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"What have the Moors done for us?"

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Well, rice, oranges, lemons, saffron, almonds,

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spices like cumin and coriander, pomegranates,

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aubergines, melons, oh, and irrigation.

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And this is my secret valley, studded with olive trees,

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that lies in Andalucia.

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It's here, in a converted farm house which has a splendid kitchen,

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that I'll be cooking all the dishes I've discovered from my travels.

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Beautiful dishes like roasted red peppers

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stuffed with creamy salt cod and garlic,

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and fantastic meatballs, stewed with cuttlefish.

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And I love this dish of lentils made with Serrano ham.

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But all that is yet to come

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because my journey starts in the north west, Galicia.

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The Moors never really settled here.

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The Romans did and before them, the Celts.

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It's very much like Cornwall or the West Coast of Ireland.

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I've heard it said that Galicia is cows, Celts, fishing boats and fog.

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I borrowed this campervan off a friend of mine

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and he calls it Campy.

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It sort of reminds me a bit of a vehicle that a retired librarian

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and his missus might take touring Europe.

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No offence to librarians, you understand.

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But actually, it's quite useful.

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I'm sort of rather a fan of Don Quixote

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and it's a bit like, er, Rocinante,

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you know, the slightly tired old nag that he had to take him round Spain.

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This is the same and, d'you know what?

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I'm sort of thinking it's got quite a nice little cooker in the back

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and a fridge and some nice little worktops.

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When I'm staying in hotels most of the time

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I can probably buy some things from the market and do a bit of cooking.

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So, I'm actually beginning to rather like it.

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All over the landscape of Galicia

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are these tomb-like granaries for storing corn cobs.

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They're raised on stone mushrooms to keep out the damp and the rats.

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To me, time seems to move increasingly slowly in these parts

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as the rest of the world speeds up.

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This is one of the most common vegetables in Galicia.

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It's called grelos and thrives in the damp weather.

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It's like a cross between kale and cabbage

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and this is the House of Juan, a small restaurant,

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'where only traditional Galician dishes are cooked.

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'Here, the chef, Maria Jose,

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'is cooking the most famous Galician dish, Cocido.

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'The base of it is the pig's head.'

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Good lord!

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'Well, I did ask to see something really authentic.

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'Now in goes the grelos, straight from the freezer,

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'into the same stock the head was cooked in.

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'Notice she gives it a huge whack of salt.

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'Well, we're miles away from the salt police.

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'Lots of other cuts of the pig

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'are also cooked, with chickpeas and potatoes.

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'I'd arranged to meet up with John Barlow,

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'the food writer whose book Everything But The Squeal,

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'describes why he loves the place so much.

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'So I asked him, "What's the quintessential Galician dish?"'

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This is it, this is it, yeah.

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So there'd be a stew. Hog stew with grelos, that's it.

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That's the one thing, when there's like a festival

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or some sort of winter holiday,

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that's what everybody has on a Sunday, you know.

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Front shoulder of pork, the head,

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some grelos, potatoes, chickpeas, that kind of thing.

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All cooked for four hours, five hours.

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The number one thing.

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Because we were once filming in Wales, in Merthyr Tydfil,

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where they have a thing called cawl which is the same sort of dish

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but it's like an all-in-one-pot stew

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and we asked a few locals there whether they liked to eat this,

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and they just said, "No, no, no, it's all... We like McDonalds".

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Oh, no, no. That's our...

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it's something you notice straightaway about Galicia

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is they're still in contact with these recipes.

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No matter how much money you've got or how, you know, swanky you are,

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this is what you want to do to celebrate your Galicianess,

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would be to have a bit of shoulder of ham,

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some pig's head, some grelos.

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This is the big family thing on a Sunday. This is what people do

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when they spend three or four hours, perhaps, eating it

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and so it's very different from the rest of Spain.

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Just as a matter of interest, before we start, how many,

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ask Maria how many this would serve.

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THEY SPEAK SPANISH

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Seven or eight.

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-Seven or eight.

-Yeah.

-Big appetites.

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Well, I can't believe this. I mean, I've got every bit of the pig here.

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I've got the, the, I've got the ribs, I've got the shoulder,

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I've got the snout, I've got chorizas.

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I've got everything but the squeal!

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Well, I never expected in my wildest dreams a week ago in England

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to be slicing through a pig's muzzle...

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but it's utterly delicious.

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The whole thing is delicious. I mean this is great.

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Got every part of the pig. I've got the grelos.

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Will you just thank Maria and just say...?

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THEY SPEAK SPANISH

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-Gracias.

-Salud.

-Salud.

-Salud.

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This is Oseira Monastery,

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where Graham Greene would come from time to time

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to help strengthen his belief in Catholicism.

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These somewhat depressing, dark and no doubt damp walls

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really do suit the mood of the melancholic world of Greene-land.

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But it's in nearby Santiago de Compostela

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that all the world comes to pay homage to St James,

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since his bones were found by a shepherd in a field,

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illuminated by stars.

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Since then, pilgrims have been making this journey on foot

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for over 1,000 years, from all over Europe.

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It was a great medieval tourist destination

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symbolised by a scallop shell.

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Nothing could match it.

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The great and the good, the sick and the not-so-good

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have paid homage to St James here.

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I love this, it's called a Botafumeiro.

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I remember a very excited Keith Floyd

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telling me about it years ago

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saying that it was the size of car and belching out perfumed smoke.

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In fact, it's the size of a milk churn

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and it's a medieval air freshener, because the pilgrims that came here

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weren't exactly the sweetest smelling bunch,

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after months on the trail.

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It's amazing how something so practical

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takes on a real religious significance

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Pilgrims have always been big business here

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and the little bars surrounding the cathedral

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make a great lunch time trade.

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The most popular thing on any menu here is empanada,

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a bit like our Cornish Pasty.

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But to see how they're made, I had to come here at 6:00 in the morning

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to see Trinidad, who's been making them for years.

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She covers the pastry with a sauce made with softened onions,

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peppers and garlic and loads of oil.

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Then strips of conger eel, cheap as chips straight from the market

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and a smattering of tomato sauce.

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Now even more olive oil and, finally, on goes the top.

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Incidentally, this isn't a short crust pastry.

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It's made more like a bread dough but because it's been made with oil,

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it has an elastic quality to it.

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On the dot of 8:00, the local baker lady comes round

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to take it to her oven which is cooling down

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from baking that morning's bread.

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The earliest records show that these little pies

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started to appear when the Moors invaded Spain.

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The most popular filling here in Santiago,

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being near the sea, is fish.

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This particular one has octopus in it, very Galician.

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Anyway, all I can say is that it's one of life's pleasures

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to taste a freshly baked empanada with a cup of local wine. Muy bueno!

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For hundreds of years,

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pilgrims have come to this street to have their first decent meal

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after weeks or months of being on the road,

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and even now it's still catering for the weary travellers.

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Just looking around here, it's really whetting my appetite.

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Everywhere I look there are appetising plates of food.

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There's a good little market near the Cathedral. It's called Abastos.

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It's a bit like a farmer's market.

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And right amongst it is a tiny restaurant,

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run by a couple of young guys called Jargo and Marcos.

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Because their restaurant is so small,

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they've had to come up with novel ideas on how to use

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-all available resources to the best advantage.

-Only ten seconds.

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Witness the first time I've ever seen cockles

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cooked in ten seconds...

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by the steam from an espresso machine.

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That's all you need for a tapas dish.

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The cockles couldn't be better.

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Sweet and firm and not a hint of coffee.

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Today we are going to choose, er, the best fish.

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-Yeah.

-I think that we, er,

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there is a hake, a very good hake.

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And seafood.

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I love seafood. My, my passion.

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Let's go to the seafood.

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OK.

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THEY SPEAK SPANISH

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How much would they be about?

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HE SPEAKS SPANISH

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And how will you cook those?

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Yes, today. Er, pot of hot water.

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-And salt?

-Yeah.

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-A laurel, laurel.

-Laurel?

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-Laurel.

-Oh, er, bay leaf.

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-Yeah.

-Bay leaf.

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-Let's go?

-Let's go.

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THEY SPEAK SPANISH

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He has to work now.

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He's gotta work, he's gotta work. OK. Fine.

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'Yes, he's gotta work and we'd held him up so much

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'I felt honour bound to give him a hand.'

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Well, I must say, I didn't know I was gonna get enrolled

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to doing a bit of prep when I turned up here this morning

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but they're so short. They've got this lunch for 12 people.

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They're gonna shut the restaurant,

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but it's really a very elaborate affair

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and of course I can only help them.

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They've only been open for three months.

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Basically it's such a good idea

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and it's so nice to see young people getting involved like this.

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I mean, gosh, if I was their age I'd be so excited.

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Set up in this lovely little restaurant,

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next to a lovely market and just going round the market every day,

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buying what you want for that day's cooking only.

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Changing the menu every day

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so you could just cook what's best in the market.

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I mean, it's like every chef's dream.

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HE SPEAKS SPANISH

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This sort of cooking is right up my street.

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I mean, first of all,

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he's just saying he's only cooking these clams "a la plancha" -

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which means on the griddle - for two minutes,

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and just saying that quite a lot of those Galician customers

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like them cooked longer

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but he just like likes them cooked as little as that.

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This is the sort of way that I think Spanish food is so perfect.

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It's sort of like Japanese food in a way.

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The best ingredients, cooked as simply as possible

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and now he's just adding a little bit of oil on top of there.

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Just look at those on the plate there.

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Just a little thin stream of oil

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and then just some fried parsley.

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I mean, that is just simple, perfect expression of great sea food.

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He's a clever boy, Marcos,

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because it's hard to do things simple like this. It really is.

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To sort of... You know, the way of most chefs

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is to make things difficult.

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It's the sort of Michelin Guide way, actually, as well,

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is to take something perfectly simple,

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made by God and muck it up

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and he hasn't done it and I love him for it.

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As I said at the beginning,

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this is where I'm going to cook the dishes I'm discovering on my journey

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and the first is a tapas of mussels.

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Well, before I start cooking this little tapas from Galicia,

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I just have to say that all the journey,

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throughout the whole of Spain, I was dreaming of being able to cook

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my own version of Spanish food in somewhere like this.

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I mean, you could not cook a duff dish

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with a view like that, could you?

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Anyway, I first had this mussel dish

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in a tapas bar in Santiago de Compostela in Galicia

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and what I really liked about it is the vinaigrette was quite tart.

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More vinegar, actually, than I'd normally put in,

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but it seemed to go terribly well

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with the ice cold Galician beer at the time.

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Well, first off, I'm going to open them

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with just a splash of dry sherry.

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And these will take about two or three minutes, no longer.

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Cos as soon as they've opened, I wanna take them off.

0:19:350:19:38

And to help them cooking, I just put a lid on.

0:19:380:19:41

So after a couple of minutes, they're done.

0:19:440:19:46

Just strain them and serve them up.

0:19:460:19:48

This is a great starter when you have loads of friends round

0:19:480:19:51

and you're waiting for the main course to cook.

0:19:510:19:54

They look so appetising.

0:19:540:19:57

I keep reading in cookery books and elsewhere

0:19:580:20:02

about how you should throw away mussels that don't open.

0:20:020:20:06

I just think that's total rubbish, actually.

0:20:060:20:09

You should throw away mussels that are open

0:20:090:20:11

before you start cooking, are well open,

0:20:110:20:13

in other words, when you give them a little tap, they don't close.

0:20:130:20:17

Actually the ones that are still closed when you finish cooking

0:20:170:20:21

are perfectly all right to eat. Total waste to throw them away.

0:20:210:20:26

So to make this zingy dressing, you need peppers.

0:20:260:20:29

I like those long gnarly ones called Romano Peppers.

0:20:290:20:33

Cut them up finely, because you're not going to cook them

0:20:330:20:36

and they mustn't be chunky in the finished sauce.

0:20:360:20:39

What I like about cooking in Spain is it's all about the ingredients,

0:20:390:20:43

all about the freshness of them and the colour of them

0:20:430:20:46

and the cooking is simple and straightforward.

0:20:460:20:48

I just remember a very early experience going into a tapas bar.

0:20:480:20:52

Must have been about 16, I suppose. It was in Majorca

0:20:520:20:55

and they'd just cooked some mussels a la plancha -

0:20:550:20:58

it means "on a big griddle" -

0:20:580:20:59

Threw the mussels onto the griddle, put an old tin,

0:20:590:21:03

a sweet tin lid in top, I guess just to retain the steam,

0:21:030:21:06

scooped them up, put them on a plate on the bar.

0:21:060:21:09

Beer, mussel, fab.

0:21:090:21:12

So now some salty capers and they go in with the chopped up gherkins

0:21:120:21:16

I prepared before, and of course, there's a red onion in there too.

0:21:160:21:21

Now chopped parsley.

0:21:210:21:23

All you need to do now is to liquidise a skinned tomato

0:21:230:21:26

with lashings of olive oil

0:21:260:21:28

and that great Spanish invention, sherry vinegar.

0:21:280:21:32

I just love it, I'm a convert.

0:21:320:21:34

Out with the balsamic, in with the sherry!

0:21:340:21:37

Season to taste. In my case,

0:21:370:21:40

possibly a tad too much salt but that's me.

0:21:400:21:43

And then give it good whiz

0:21:430:21:45

because this liquid is the heart of the sauce.

0:21:450:21:48

I really does make a lovely change from moules mariniere

0:21:510:21:55

and it looks so deliciously summery

0:21:550:21:57

but fresh mussels at home

0:21:570:21:59

are at their tippy top best in the autumn and winter months.

0:21:590:22:03

This is a fab way to brighten up those dark evenings.

0:22:030:22:06

Mussels vinaigrette followed by a cold beer.

0:22:060:22:11

Asturias is the neighbouring region to Galicia

0:22:220:22:25

on my journey to the east, a hard mountainous place.

0:22:250:22:30

This is the land the Moors who had conquered most of Spain gave up on.

0:22:300:22:34

It was the mountains that defeated them.

0:22:340:22:37

Although they had large, well-trained armies,

0:22:370:22:40

this unforgiving landscape was too much.

0:22:400:22:43

Well, that and the rebellious spirit of the Asturians

0:22:430:22:46

who were widely known as fierce fighters.

0:22:460:22:49

One Spanish writer, Jesus Fernandez Santos,

0:22:490:22:52

on a journey from the plains of Castile to the Atlantic,

0:22:520:22:56

described it as like entering the threshold of a promised land.

0:22:560:23:01

Actually, my knowledge of Spanish is OK in the food department.

0:23:090:23:13

I can get all this stuff.

0:23:130:23:16

"Sidreria", well, that's a cider house, of course.

0:23:160:23:19

"Casa Poli", that's the name of it.

0:23:190:23:21

"Quesos", cheeses, obviously.

0:23:210:23:24

"Tradicional Asturiana",

0:23:240:23:27

obviously, traditional Asturian cooking.

0:23:270:23:31

Just my sort of place.

0:23:310:23:33

The chef at Casa Poli is called Luis

0:23:330:23:36

and he's going to make a popular local dish.

0:23:360:23:38

When I was looking down the list of dishes from Asturias,

0:23:380:23:41

this one really caught my attention

0:23:410:23:44

because we don't do a lot of fish with cider back at home

0:23:440:23:48

but, of course, they do here

0:23:480:23:50

and I think this is the most famous fish-in-cider dish,

0:23:500:23:54

isn't it, Luis, very famous?

0:23:540:23:56

Si, yes, it's muy famous.

0:23:560:23:58

This is a typical way of cooking here in northern Spain.

0:23:580:24:02

It reminds me of classic and basic French provincial cooking.

0:24:020:24:05

We're not all that far from the border with France

0:24:050:24:08

and so I bet there's been

0:24:080:24:10

a little crossover of influences here over the years.

0:24:100:24:14

There's fried onions, olive oil and flour to make a rue

0:24:140:24:18

and then Luis adds fish stock

0:24:180:24:20

and, on a low heat, he gently thickens it and cooks out the floor.

0:24:200:24:24

I feel really privileged making these series

0:24:270:24:29

because it is about coming into the kitchens in somewhere like Spain,

0:24:290:24:32

particularly where the food is really simple

0:24:320:24:36

and just seeing what the telling details are.

0:24:360:24:39

Once you see something like that, like the degree he cooks the onion,

0:24:390:24:42

like turning off the heat before he adds the flour so it doesn't burn,

0:24:420:24:46

those are all the details you don't really get in recipes.

0:24:460:24:50

Now he puts in some Asturian cider.

0:24:500:24:53

This is really sharp and dry

0:24:530:24:55

which will give the sauce a touch of acidity.

0:24:550:24:58

It's not a bad thing when cooking fish, it's like lemon juice.

0:24:580:25:02

And then he puts in fresh peas, but I suspect,

0:25:020:25:05

given the right time of year,

0:25:050:25:08

he could easily have used wild asparagus or tiny broad beans.

0:25:080:25:12

Time to taste.

0:25:120:25:13

Very acid. Very acid.

0:25:130:25:16

-But now with the sugar.

-OK.

-Mmm.

0:25:160:25:18

HE SPEAKS SPANISH

0:25:180:25:20

OK.

0:25:200:25:21

I think this is a seriously handy thing to know.

0:25:230:25:27

I'll make sure my chefs get to see this.

0:25:270:25:29

A really simple way, even with this huge knife,

0:25:290:25:33

to cut hake into bone free steaks.

0:25:330:25:36

He's actually cutting the bone out of each one of these steaks

0:25:360:25:39

and just pulling it out. I've never seen that done before.

0:25:390:25:43

It'd be quite easy to do with hake

0:25:430:25:45

because they have a sort of plate structure around here

0:25:450:25:48

rather than bone, so you can get them out easily

0:25:480:25:51

but it produces a really nice, neat fillet of fish.

0:25:510:25:54

Now you can see what I mean about poaching in a pre-made sauce.

0:25:540:25:58

You put this on a stove with the minimum of heat

0:25:580:26:01

and the fish adds flavour to the sauce.

0:26:010:26:04

In fact, this area of Spain along with the Galicia,

0:26:040:26:07

Cantabria and the Basque country is known as the Land of Sauces.

0:26:070:26:10

In go clams, then some gambas, these large prawns.

0:26:100:26:16

They'll cook in seconds, really.

0:26:160:26:18

Then, finally, the fish is knapped with the sauce

0:26:180:26:21

and finished off with a sprinkling of saffron.

0:26:210:26:25

That's a new one on me, I've never used it as a garnish before

0:26:250:26:29

and I don't think I will, but when in Rome...

0:26:290:26:32

-Please. Very tasty.

-Love to.

0:26:320:26:35

Perfect way of doing the fish.

0:26:380:26:41

And thank you very much.

0:26:410:26:44

Mmm. Can't stop eating here!

0:26:440:26:46

I thought cider was really popular from Somerset to Cornwall.

0:26:520:26:55

I should know because I've drunk quite enough of it in my time,

0:26:550:27:00

but here in Asturias,

0:27:000:27:02

it is without a shadow of doubt, the most important drink in the region.

0:27:020:27:06

Far more important than wine.

0:27:060:27:08

This festival in Gijon is one of many to celebrate it.

0:27:080:27:13

It's curious, but after a couple of glasses,

0:27:130:27:17

you get quite used to the way that they pour things.

0:27:170:27:20

Can we do another one?

0:27:270:27:29

It's stronger than it looks. Whether a beer or cider festival,

0:27:290:27:32

it's an amazing place to meet people.

0:27:320:27:35

He's my husband, he's English, I'm Asturias.

0:27:380:27:41

-How you doing?

-I'm all right.

0:27:410:27:43

Just tell us about Asturias.

0:27:430:27:46

What does this cider, Asturias cider mean to you Asturians,

0:27:460:27:51

people from Asturias?

0:27:510:27:53

To me it means our culture, because, the way you pour it,

0:27:530:27:56

you drink it straight from, er, bottle.

0:27:560:27:58

-It's not the same, it's not broken. It has to break on the side.

-Break?

0:27:580:28:02

-We call it break, you break the...

-Yeah.

0:28:020:28:05

And it looks different.

0:28:050:28:06

It's not as transparent. It's more...

0:28:060:28:08

-Cloudy.

-Cloudy?

-Yeah, yeah.

0:28:080:28:10

Has to be like that, then you're supposed to leave a little

0:28:100:28:13

so that you go like that...

0:28:130:28:15

-Why?

-This is because you all drink from the same glass,

-Uh-huh.

0:28:150:28:19

So that when you drink, you throw it so it gets clean with the alcohol.

0:28:190:28:23

-So where I drink there, I have to drop it here.

-Right.

0:28:230:28:26

Plus, it means a lot.

0:28:260:28:28

We are always drinking cider and party, party.

0:28:280:28:30

-Thank you.

-Hello to Cornish people, I love Cornwall.

0:28:300:28:35

It's was a rather rainy, cold, early Spring evening.

0:28:350:28:39

It felt more like Shepton Mallet than Spain.

0:28:390:28:41

I've just been watching three of those guys serving the cider,

0:28:410:28:46

the cidre and I think macho comes very easily to the Spanish.

0:28:460:28:50

The way they were standing there, hand held high,

0:28:500:28:53

looking straight in front of them, pouring into the glass.

0:28:530:28:57

And I was just watching, they were getting it as close as they could

0:28:570:29:00

to their chests and I was thinking,

0:29:000:29:02

a bit like a matador in a bull fight.

0:29:020:29:03

Not quite so dangerous, I have to say.

0:29:030:29:06

You know, when they stand there and the bull's horn goes so close

0:29:060:29:10

to their really smart chest.

0:29:100:29:11

It's like that, it's the same sort of seriousness on their face.

0:29:110:29:15

Love it. Love this too.

0:29:150:29:18

One of the things I really like at these local festivals

0:29:200:29:24

is to go and buy some of the food that everybody eats

0:29:240:29:27

sso I've got some, at some cost to me, I can tell you -

0:29:270:29:30

the queue was enormous - some local food.

0:29:300:29:33

I just find it so appetising, you know,

0:29:330:29:36

much as I like the odd hotdog, this is much more attractive to me.

0:29:360:29:40

First of all we've got fabada, that's their sausage, ham and bean stew.

0:29:400:29:46

Beans being the most important.

0:29:460:29:48

In here we've got tripe. A lot of people don't like tripe but I love it.

0:29:480:29:52

Particularly with this is sausage and pimenton, really good way of eating it.

0:29:520:29:56

Here we've got more chorizo, well it is Spain, but this time done in cider. I really like that.

0:29:560:30:02

It's really nice and acid.

0:30:020:30:04

And finally, or course, cabrales cheese, just on a slice of very nice bread. I've tried some already.

0:30:040:30:11

Cabrales, the second most famous cheese in all of Spain after manchego.

0:30:110:30:16

Number one cheese in Asturias, made from three different milks.

0:30:160:30:20

Goat, cow's and ewe milk. Ewe's milk, sorry.

0:30:200:30:24

Matured in caves, fantastic.

0:30:240:30:27

This is one of the best known cabrales cheese makers in Asturias.

0:30:350:30:39

Pepe Barda.

0:30:390:30:41

His village of Tielve lies in the heart of the mountains.

0:30:410:30:46

And it's the mountains, the Picos de Europa, that is the secret of great success of cabrales.

0:30:490:30:57

This is where the cheeses are stored and the limestone is quite porous, so the wind blows through them.

0:30:570:31:03

The Spanish call this the "soplao" which means breath.

0:31:030:31:07

Good lord,

0:31:070:31:10

this is really amazing.

0:31:100:31:12

You know, I thought there was going to be some sort of stainless steel here

0:31:120:31:17

or something or some vestiges of, er, modernity but it's, it's just a genuine cave

0:31:170:31:21

and it's, it's running with water which I'd always heard about these cheeses

0:31:210:31:27

like Roquefort, because they need the dampness for the mould to grow.

0:31:270:31:30

But it's just amazing up here in the Picos mountains there's still bears out there and wolves.

0:31:300:31:36

I mean this is, this is as hidden, as hidden a thing as you can get.

0:31:360:31:41

It smells so ripe.

0:31:410:31:44

I have to say, cabrales is a cheese for serious cheese lovers.

0:31:440:31:48

The first time you taste it you may not quite get it.

0:31:480:31:52

It's acidic and has a parmesan-like graininess.

0:31:520:31:57

If I saw it on the menu now,

0:31:570:31:59

I wouldn't hesitate to be reunited with it and it goes so well with cider.

0:31:590:32:05

A friend of mine said I had to be in Oviedo for Easter.

0:32:140:32:19

When I see a procession like this and feel its emotional impact,

0:32:190:32:25

I yearn for a time when everybody believed.

0:32:250:32:28

It's so powerful.

0:32:280:32:30

The conical hoods the hard tap, tapping of their staves

0:32:300:32:34

echoing through the narrow streets, the flickering faceless eyes.

0:32:340:32:38

Everything is designed it seems to put the fear of god in you.

0:32:380:32:43

But the adoration of the Madonna and the procession of the penitent is at the heart of this celebration.

0:32:440:32:51

They say that god moves in mysterious ways and it doesn't get more mysterious than this.

0:32:530:33:00

I've been here a few days and I feel really at home here.

0:33:040:33:07

There's something really relaxing for British people about Spain.

0:33:070:33:11

It's, well if you compare it with Italy, Italy's all about style,

0:33:110:33:15

about the way you look, about the food, about e-everything.

0:33:150:33:19

It's gotta be the best pasta, the best tomatoes.

0:33:190:33:22

I love all that, don't get me wrong, but there's something relaxing about here a-and the food is understated.

0:33:220:33:30

There is great food here but you have to sort of go out and find it.

0:33:300:33:34

They don't shout about it.

0:33:340:33:36

If you say to them, what do you think of fabada?

0:33:360:33:39

It's always like hand on heart, this is where you're really touching me

0:33:390:33:43

but you go into restaurants, things are put down in front of you.

0:33:430:33:47

There's not a big effort to make it look beautiful but when it's good, it is really good.

0:33:470:33:53

And that's what's so exciting to me. It's, it's just going out and finding all those hidden dishes

0:33:530:33:58

that you don't really know about.

0:33:580:33:59

It really, it really appeals to the sort of explorer in me.

0:33:590:34:05

It's impossible here it's seems to me, for an hour to pass without someone mentioning the word fabada,

0:34:050:34:13

and here the cook Maria, at Las Penas restaurant makes it virtually every day.

0:34:130:34:19

She starts off with chorizos, cured belly pork and a lovely beans,

0:34:220:34:27

followed by black pudding and that's cooked gently for three hours.

0:34:270:34:32

She adds saffron and butter and it's taking on the colours of the Spanish flag.

0:34:340:34:40

It's nearly ready so a quick taste and a tad more salt.

0:34:400:34:44

Oh, by the way, you never stir it.

0:34:440:34:47

You only shake the pot, otherwise the beans would break up and the black pudding would burst.

0:34:470:34:52

This is a sight to gladden the eye of any Asturian.

0:34:520:34:55

I've see it in motorway service stations round here...

0:34:550:34:59

Fabada Asturiana, the culinary soul of the region.

0:34:590:35:04

I know very little, I must say, I'd never heard of Oviedo before I came here. It's a lovely place.

0:35:170:35:22

I'm so enjoying the Easter procession.

0:35:220:35:25

Turns out Oviedo is the capital of Christian Spain for 200 years.

0:35:250:35:31

I didn't know that. I've also just found out that the Prince and Princess of Asturias

0:35:310:35:37

are like our Prince and Princess of Wales

0:35:370:35:40

and also, get this, the Princess of Asturias comes from Oviedo and her name is Leticia, there you go.

0:35:400:35:48

Another iconic dish and one I've cooked many times, is patatas bravas.

0:35:560:36:02

It's a dish popular all over Spain and I love it.

0:36:020:36:05

Boil some potatoes and drain them.

0:36:050:36:08

Then fry a couple of onions with a clove or two of garlic.

0:36:080:36:11

Cook till soft and add pimenton.

0:36:110:36:15

Well, this is another one that's looking like the Spanish flag. I just can't get over it.

0:36:150:36:20

It's just these colours, the colours of Spain in the flag and in the food.

0:36:200:36:25

Actually this is, er, bravas sauce, patatas bravas.

0:36:250:36:28

It doesn't actually mean "brave potatoes".

0:36:280:36:31

It means sort of, er, fierce potatoes.

0:36:310:36:34

I think like the Cornish say, it's a brave old storm or it's, it's brave and hot.

0:36:340:36:38

It means it's fiercely hot and this is fiercely hot, too.

0:36:380:36:41

I've just put loads of chilli in there.

0:36:410:36:44

Now I put in chopped tomatoes, tinned are OK,

0:36:440:36:48

and then a bit of water and three or four dried bay leaves.

0:36:480:36:53

Some sea salt and to balance that, some sugar.

0:36:530:36:56

A splash or two of sherry vinegar, I love sherry vinegar,

0:37:000:37:04

and that as far as the sauce is concerned, is it.

0:37:040:37:07

All that remains is to saute those parboiled potatoes in olive oil.

0:37:070:37:12

I had a feeling that shortly after Columbus brought back these things like tomatoes, potatoes, chillies,

0:37:150:37:22

little cafes opened mainly in Seville serving up the food of the Americas,

0:37:220:37:29

and I wouldn't mind betting that dishes like this were on the menu, obviously minus the food processor.

0:37:290:37:36

What better way of showcasing the vegetables and spices of the New World.

0:37:360:37:41

What did we do without tomatoes?

0:37:410:37:43

Did we all live on turnips like Baldrick in Blackadder?

0:37:430:37:47

So driving further eastwards, thinking of the Mediterranean and seeing what appears to be Austria,

0:37:540:38:01

how could this happen?

0:38:010:38:02

I didn't envisage this when we were planning this trip and it's so blinking cold.

0:38:020:38:07

I'm going to see a friend, Chris Hadlington,

0:38:070:38:11

a chef from Plymouth who now owns a house in the Cantabrian mountains.

0:38:110:38:15

He's spoken fondly about the village where he now lives and I had warm expectations.

0:38:150:38:21

So here we are in the village.

0:38:210:38:23

-It's, it's not very picturesque.

-It's beautiful, isn't it?

0:38:230:38:27

-What? Is very historic I must say.

-It's very high up. Nearly a thousand metres up here.

0:38:270:38:31

-Really?

-Yeah.

-God it's cold.

-Very cold, especially for May. Yeah.

0:38:310:38:35

-So where's this bar, then?

-Here is, this is the bar.

-Looks like a, a shed.

0:38:350:38:38

Well, literally the guy that runs it, it, he owns, he owns the barn and this is a community bar so it's

0:38:380:38:45

not licensed, it has no taxes and it's literally run for the people in the village.

0:38:450:38:50

-Gosh.

-It never closes.

0:38:500:38:53

If there's nobody here you just help yourself to a beer and pop the money on the counter.

0:38:530:38:58

-My gosh!

-Here we go.

-This is wonderful.

-It's a magic bar.

0:38:580:39:02

This is a real boy's bar.

0:39:020:39:04

-And here we are, always a nice bowl of, er...

-That is it?

0:39:040:39:08

Yeah, that's the caldo.

0:39:080:39:10

Caldo is literally, er, they'll give you a shot, just to warm you up,

0:39:100:39:14

but it's made with the, the bones from, these are beef bones.

0:39:140:39:19

And garbanzos which are the chickpeas.

0:39:190:39:22

Pimientos, the peppers, carrots, and onions and you drink it

0:39:220:39:28

in a little cup or a little glass and they'll just give you the, the clear broth and the stock is just stunning.

0:39:280:39:33

-Well, you'll taste it in a minute.

-So it's called caldo.

0:39:330:39:36

Called caldo, caldo is just stock.

0:39:360:39:38

It's the Spanish word for stock, yeah, caldo.

0:39:380:39:40

All the time there, it'll warm you up.

0:39:400:39:43

Fernando, Fernando looks after the bar.

0:39:430:39:45

Very, very nice to meet you, Fernando.

0:39:450:39:47

Can we have something to drink?

0:39:470:39:48

-I would have thought some...

-Dos vinos, por favour.

-Vino.

0:39:480:39:53

Well, I mean it's unbelievably fabulous.

0:39:530:39:55

I had no idea. I just thought it was all going to be neat and tidy.

0:39:550:39:58

-No, no.

-This is rougher, rougher than I could have imagined.

0:39:580:40:01

It reminds me, like in Cornwall, you've got all these like pretty villages full of holiday cottages.

0:40:010:40:06

Then there's a few villages left that got these disused cars,

0:40:060:40:10

you know, the wheels off on blocks or it's just like this.

0:40:100:40:15

This is very much a working village.

0:40:150:40:16

This is where the people look after the cattle, look after...

0:40:160:40:20

Would you ever get any tourists up here?

0:40:200:40:22

-Never see a tourist up here.

-I'll bet.

0:40:220:40:24

-That's the joy of coming up.

-And what about the food then?

-Oh, the food in this part of the world.

0:40:240:40:28

Well it's, it's you know, living amongst the mountains is fantastic.

0:40:280:40:33

They hunt wild boar, they hunt venison.

0:40:330:40:35

The rivers are full of fresh brown trout.

0:40:350:40:38

In fact my neighbour, last night when I got home, had just fished out two brown trout for my supper.

0:40:380:40:43

How fantastic's that, straight out of the river that day.

0:40:430:40:46

This sounds like Ernest Hemmingway, sounds like...

0:40:460:40:49

-It's great.

-So what, what would you eat?

0:40:490:40:51

I mean, presumably there's no restaurants around here.

0:40:510:40:55

No restaurants up here. Down in the valley you'd get restaurants.

0:40:550:40:58

You eat whatever's available.

0:40:580:40:59

When I first arrived here you think the food's fantastic

0:40:590:41:02

and then you find you go to a restaurant and it's the same food and the same food the next restaurant.

0:41:020:41:07

But what you realise is that they only eat a) what's local and b) what's in season.

0:41:070:41:13

So in the end you start to become very, very picky. Who cooks the best casido?

0:41:130:41:17

And, and how important is food and eating to the locals.

0:41:170:41:20

Oh, they, it's, it's, it's a religion.

0:41:200:41:22

-It's very important.

-It's a religion.

0:41:220:41:24

I tell you, these people, whatever happens, it's one o'clock, it's lunch time.

0:41:240:41:28

For a snack, Fernando fries fatty, salted belly pork

0:41:300:41:33

which goes really well with the wine, and then slices of black pudding.

0:41:330:41:38

This was made by Audelina in the next village down the valley.

0:41:380:41:43

I know this is not to everyone's taste but it is to mine and it may not be around for much longer.

0:41:430:41:51

Aude's just been mixing some rice

0:41:510:41:53

which she's boiled and cooled in this lovely terracotta pot and then she's added, er, fat.

0:41:530:41:58

Onions fried in fat.

0:41:580:42:00

Twice as much onion to the fat.

0:42:000:42:02

And I think the onion, the very, very slow cooked onion in the lard

0:42:020:42:07

is, apart from the blood which is about to go in, that's what makes really good morcilla.

0:42:070:42:12

It's got that slightly sweet taste of onion in it.

0:42:120:42:14

Now she's adding, er, sweet paprika, dulce.

0:42:140:42:19

That's very good.

0:42:290:42:31

So the mixture of rice, onions fried in lard, blood and pimenton

0:42:330:42:38

is forced into these casings made from intestines,

0:42:380:42:41

and they are gently put into a caldo, similar to what we saw in the bar up the road and poached.

0:42:410:42:48

She just said they'll be boiling for 20 minutes just to cook the blood and the blood's like,

0:42:480:42:53

it's a bit like egg yolk, really. It just sets the whole sausage.

0:42:530:42:56

Aude's said that she learnt how to make, black pudding, morcilla,

0:43:020:43:05

when she was, when she's a child but she's been making it for about 40 years, mainly for her family.

0:43:050:43:11

She's had seven children, but every time she makes it, she makes a lot of it

0:43:110:43:16

and if any of the neighbours want some, she, she'll give it to them.

0:43:160:43:19

And she says she's still, if she wants some, some black pudding, she'll still stop and make it.

0:43:190:43:24

She said loads of people make black pudding around here because, er, it's what they do.

0:43:240:43:30

Make morcilla, but, er, but she said they're all a bit different.

0:43:300:43:34

Everybody has their little personal touch, but I bet hers is the best.

0:43:340:43:38

I mean just by watching her and talking to her, she puts everything into it.

0:43:380:43:42

I'm fascinated. I'm, er writing the recipe, possibly only for my own benefit cos I,

0:43:440:43:49

I can't believe you could buy, er, bottles of blood from your local supermarket, but you never know.

0:43:490:43:54

If they see this, they may be encouraged to, to start stocking it.

0:43:540:43:59

Can just see it on the shelves - fresh blood, pigs.

0:43:590:44:03

This is the food I set out to find.

0:44:030:44:06

Ordinary people cooking dishes that have been here with them for centuries...

0:44:060:44:10

but who knows how long they'll last in this supermarket fuelled world.

0:44:100:44:14

Oh, gracias.

0:44:140:44:17

That's really lovely and what I love about it is the rice.

0:44:180:44:21

It's just gives it plenty of body. You would have no idea there is blood in here

0:44:210:44:25

and people get squeamish about black puddings, but it's just there

0:44:250:44:29

to bind it together and the lasting flavour

0:44:290:44:31

is the sweetness of the onions and that, er, and the chilli heat from the pimentons.

0:44:310:44:37

It's really good.

0:44:370:44:40

After watching that, I needed to cook and campers are

0:44:400:44:43

brilliant things if you get the urge to create something you fancy.

0:44:430:44:48

I'm going to cook tortas con heuvos he .

0:44:480:44:52

Basically, that's corn pancakes, eggs and fried meat from chorizo sausage trimmings.

0:44:520:44:59

But first to make the pancakes or tortas.

0:44:590:45:02

Using maize flour, salt and water.

0:45:020:45:04

Mix it all into a stiff paste like a pastry and set it aside.

0:45:040:45:09

Now for the Eheas.

0:45:090:45:11

I quite often pick up dishes when I'm after something else.

0:45:110:45:15

Er, we were at this restaurant called Casa Poli

0:45:150:45:17

filming hake cooked in Asturian cider, very nice it was too.

0:45:170:45:22

But after I'd finished watching it being cooked and tasting it, they invited me to sit down

0:45:220:45:26

and have lunch, and I just chose this really simple thing cos I was not really very hungry after eating

0:45:260:45:31

all that hake so I, I bought some chorizo sausage, this and bought some corn and am making it all up.

0:45:310:45:38

I've got everything in the camper except a rolling pin so I'm going to have to beat the living daylights

0:45:380:45:44

out of this between two tea towels.

0:45:440:45:46

While I was having lunch, I was talking to the girl that, our translator,

0:45:460:45:50

and I said I'd really like this for breakfast.

0:45:500:45:53

She said, "Oh, no, no, not for breakfast."

0:45:530:45:56

You know we only have coffee and a, and, and a piece of bread or something like that, but being

0:45:560:46:00

British, also actually being rather a fan of the Mexican dish, Uvas Rancheros, which is quite similar,

0:46:000:46:07

I really like something, I would really like something like this for breakfast.

0:46:070:46:11

In height of summer back in Cornwall, I'd get shouted at

0:46:120:46:16

and told to get back into a camp site where I belong... but not here.

0:46:160:46:20

Er, it's just so nice sitting here in, er, Campy,

0:46:200:46:23

er, with a lovely sunny day out there and doing a bit of cooking. It's very, very peaceful.

0:46:230:46:30

Mind you, I don't want you to think I'm camping all the time.

0:46:300:46:33

I'm not like doing a sort of Ray Mears, you know, living it rough.

0:46:330:46:37

It's just occasionally, I like a bit of a, a bit of a cook.

0:46:370:46:42

The tortas are done.

0:46:420:46:44

I'll dry them off in a kitchen roll and start to fry the eggs.

0:46:440:46:49

I know the Spanish wouldn't agree but I think this would make a great breakfast at home once in a while.

0:46:490:46:54

A change from bacon and eggs.

0:46:540:46:57

One of the things I'm quickly finding out is that cooking

0:46:570:47:00

in a landscape in a camper one gives one a serious appetite.

0:47:000:47:05

As soon as I smelt the chorizo cooking, I couldn't wait.

0:47:050:47:10

Well, it's absolutely delicious.

0:47:120:47:14

Er, I know I say it myself, I'm quite pleased with my, er, corn pancakes.

0:47:140:47:19

They're really, really quite good.

0:47:190:47:21

I mean they're a little bit heavier than I remember them in the restaurant but they're very tasty,

0:47:210:47:26

and delicious, just tastes, tastes like chorizo and of course the eggs are so good.

0:47:260:47:32

I don't know, you never seem to get a bad egg in Spain.

0:47:320:47:37

You don't get bad bread either, wherever you go.

0:47:380:47:41

Even the Romans, who cared about what they ate, noticed how good the bread was here.

0:47:410:47:45

This is a little bakery in Orzales in Cantabria.

0:47:450:47:49

I think bread in Spain is an understated marvel.

0:47:490:47:53

I can't recall ever being disappointed.

0:47:530:47:56

It's rough and unrefined and full of wheaty flavour.

0:47:560:47:59

To me it epitomises the straight forwardness of Spain.

0:47:590:48:05

It's not the stuff of trendy boutique bakeries.

0:48:050:48:08

It is what it is and always will be.

0:48:080:48:12

Well, I've noticed loads of signs here in Cantabria and in Asturias for artisan bakers.

0:48:120:48:17

You can't get more artisan than this.

0:48:170:48:20

Everything obviously is, is done by hand but I sincerely believe it's not gonna change.

0:48:200:48:26

These sort of places will not die out.

0:48:260:48:28

Certainly not around here, because everybody believes in their bread.

0:48:280:48:32

So we won't be seeing any of those sort, supermarket bakeries with sort of dough with accelerators and

0:48:320:48:39

decelerators to make it all speed up and slow down when we want it. It's all gonna be like this, natural.

0:48:390:48:45

Just noticing what they're doing with their hands here.

0:48:450:48:48

They're first of all making a, a dent in the middle. That's to show that it's this bakery.

0:48:480:48:53

A little squiggle with a knife.

0:48:530:48:55

That's just to stop the bread rising too much.

0:48:550:48:58

They also make empanadas here filled with bacon and chorizo, and it's fashioned very much like a pasty.

0:49:010:49:07

I wouldn't mind betting, although I suspect my Cornish friends would be

0:49:090:49:14

harrumphing at this, that the Cornish pasty

0:49:140:49:16

is somehow linked to the empanada and as I said in Santiago, that goes right back to the days of the Moors.

0:49:160:49:24

In fact they had similar looking pastries filled with chickpeas.

0:49:240:49:28

I guess from my amateur baking days, er, they're knocking the bread just to see if it's cooked or not.

0:49:310:49:37

If it gives a nice hollow sound then it's cooked.

0:49:370:49:40

Just been fascinated watching the whole process.

0:49:400:49:42

I mean, they, they're craftsmen.

0:49:420:49:45

I mean... I just love watching people do things that they've been doing

0:49:450:49:50

all their lives and doing so well without even thinking about it.

0:49:500:49:53

Just thinking about that expression, bread is the staff of live.

0:49:530:49:56

It's almost like, bread is the sort of centre of our existence and

0:49:560:50:01

when you think about bakers, bakers like this, what's a job worth?

0:50:010:50:06

What's a job worth, what's a banker worth, what's a, what am I worth, as a cook or maybe as a TV celeb?

0:50:060:50:13

One thing that is certain to me, is that these, these guys are worth something.

0:50:130:50:17

All the people that buy this bread in the villages and the towns all around here

0:50:170:50:21

really, really like their bread and I just imagine what it, it would be like if this bakery wasn't here.

0:50:210:50:28

They, they'd be the worst for it, they'd be the sadder for it

0:50:280:50:32

and that, that... It means something to people around here.

0:50:320:50:35

So to the Basque country and this is the Basque's beloved Don Estia or San Sebastian.

0:50:460:50:53

One food writer said that the Basques are famous for their appetites.

0:50:530:50:58

They'll eat three times the amount of the average Andalucian.

0:50:580:51:02

Even their tapas are heartier than the southern equivalent.

0:51:020:51:06

Here they call it pinchos, and at lunchtime the whole town goes crazy for it.

0:51:080:51:13

Pinchos refers to the cocktails stick or pincho that holds

0:51:130:51:18

the various elements together. This one's called a gilda.

0:51:180:51:22

It's curvaceous and hot, named after a character played by Rita Hayworth in a Hollywood film of the '40s.

0:51:220:51:30

The whole idea of pinchos or tapas for that matter is that you

0:51:300:51:34

go from one bar to another, each will have its own speciality.

0:51:340:51:39

The Basques are extremely convivial people and will think nothing about giving four or five bars a go.

0:51:390:51:46

I mean just look at this variety here.

0:51:460:51:49

I mean you just come in here and you think oh, what am I gonna have, you know, you're spoilt for choice.

0:51:490:51:54

And over here we've got green peppers with octopus, onion and olive oil.

0:51:540:51:59

Here we've got anchovies with garlic, parsley and olive oil.

0:51:590:52:04

Here we've got some anchovy fritters.

0:52:040:52:06

Here we've got a Spanish tortilla. Love that. Ordered one myself.

0:52:060:52:09

Another tortilla with anchovies in it.

0:52:090:52:11

Of course some fried hake and here, some fried peppers from Guernica which is their speciality.

0:52:110:52:18

They take it really seriously.

0:52:180:52:20

There's about just under 200 pinchos bars in, in San Sebastian, but some of the top ones compete every year

0:52:200:52:28

to do the best possible pinchos and they've just won it with that dish at the end there, the Pincher,

0:52:280:52:34

which is a horn of pastry filled with cream cheese and anchovy.

0:52:340:52:38

Very nice.

0:52:400:52:41

Very nice.

0:52:410:52:44

It's really quite civilised.

0:52:440:52:45

At weekends the Spanish will often have a family lunch and come to a tapas bar

0:52:450:52:51

before going on to lunch and just have a couple of tapas, not five or six.

0:52:510:52:56

I like that idea because I love my food and the thought

0:52:560:52:59

of just coming to have a couple of spicy little things like that before lunch

0:52:590:53:03

would be really, really acceptable to me.

0:53:030:53:06

Find it a bit hard to start lunch at 2.30pm, 3pm but I could get used to it.

0:53:060:53:12

If I was making a documentary about fishing, I'd have to include this place.

0:53:120:53:18

It's said that the Basques discovered the shores of American before Columbus.

0:53:180:53:23

They sailed to where they knew there were plentiful shelves of cod, off New Foundland on the Grand Banks,

0:53:230:53:29

but they didn't tell anybody.

0:53:290:53:31

Canny people the Basques.

0:53:310:53:34

I'm a great fan of San Sebastian.

0:53:340:53:36

It's just a very elegant city right on the sea. It's quite special.

0:53:360:53:40

Couldn't resist just coming down near the quay for a few sardines but actually I'm here

0:53:400:53:44

to go to one of the Gastronomic Societies.

0:53:440:53:47

Now the Gastronomic Societies, most of them founded about a hundred years ago and they started

0:53:470:53:53

with a group of fisherman wanting to go out

0:53:530:53:55

and cook food amongst themselves and, and drink quite a lot

0:53:550:53:58

and apparently it was very much encouraged by their wives.

0:53:580:54:03

You could imagine they'd been out at sea for three or four days, come back and were loafing around at home

0:54:030:54:08

and the wives would be going, "Get out there, get out there with all your mates. Leave us alone."

0:54:080:54:13

Of course they'd then go out with all their mates, drink too much,

0:54:130:54:16

come home and fall straight to sleep.

0:54:160:54:18

Which was also well liked by the wives, if you catch my drift.

0:54:180:54:23

SINGS TRADITIONAL SONG

0:54:290:54:31

Nowadays there's not so many fishermen,

0:54:380:54:40

but they're still passionate about cooking and singing, and while we're at it, drinking.

0:54:400:54:46

Paco, the only one that could speak English explains.

0:54:460:54:50

-In San Sebastian there are more than a hundred clubs like this.

-What sort of food do you cook?

0:54:500:54:54

-Traditional Basque food or...?

-Yes.

-Experimental?

0:54:540:55:00

No, no, not experimental because we are not, we are not, er, professional.

0:55:000:55:04

This is, er, our restaurants, eh?

0:55:040:55:07

No, no, no this is, er, nice food, er, like at home more or less.

0:55:070:55:13

Like at home. We have fish, of course,

0:55:130:55:17

because we are in San Sebastian but also meat

0:55:170:55:21

or eggs or, er, vegetables, everything.

0:55:210:55:26

Most men in kitchens, women say, make too much mess.

0:55:260:55:29

Yes, in here, too. In San Sebastian, too.

0:55:290:55:32

That's the reason that they, er, they don't cook a lot at home.

0:55:320:55:36

They're very enthusiastic these guys, er, so they wanted me to put some pass on.

0:55:440:55:48

Yeah, you're right, yeah, it makes it look better. OK, thank you.

0:55:480:55:52

But what these are, are, er, cod or hake throats...

0:55:540:55:58

this bit...

0:55:580:55:59

and apparently years ago when fishermen were very poor,

0:55:590:56:03

it was the only bit they could take off the fish to eat themselves,

0:56:030:56:07

because you took the throat out, you can't see when you look at the whole fish in the market,

0:56:070:56:11

nobody would have noticed and they'd eat, they'd eat the throats.

0:56:110:56:16

Now, I love this.

0:56:160:56:17

It's, it's a bit like so many sort of peasant foods suddenly becomes really expensive.

0:56:170:56:23

They are really expensive. A kilo of these throats are now 60 or 70 Euros.

0:56:230:56:29

Just thinking with them bursting into spontaneous song like this,

0:56:340:56:37

actually they're a bit like the Welsh.

0:56:370:56:39

I mean if you said to a Welshman you know, where do you come from?

0:56:390:56:43

They'd, no way would they say from Britain.

0:56:430:56:46

They'd say from Wales and it's the same with the Basques.

0:56:460:56:48

Also, similarly, they've got a pretty serious rugby club here in San Sebastian as well.

0:56:480:56:55

These hake throats are called cocochas and if you're ever in these parts, make sure you try them.

0:56:580:57:04

They're really silky because they've been cooked really slowly and they're sweet, too.

0:57:040:57:09

Well, you know, manna and all that,

0:57:090:57:12

I mean we arrived here at eleven o'clock, er, to start cooking.

0:57:120:57:16

It's now, er, four o'clock and we're only on the third course.

0:57:160:57:22

Er, it's been a delight, I mean you know, they, they know what life's all about to be honest.

0:57:220:57:28

I'm really enjoying it.

0:57:280:57:31

These fritters are made from hake which the Basques call "legatza"

0:57:310:57:36

but I suspect that although the food's important here, it's the singing that comes first.

0:57:360:57:40

They're singing a song that only has one word, "hambre", and that not surprisingly means hungry.

0:57:450:57:51

Next time its Rioja, Navarra and the blue shores of the Mediterranean.

0:58:230:58:28

Can't wait.

0:58:280:58:30

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