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I'm leaving Plymouth for Spain, the start of a culinary odyssey, | 0:00:05 | 0:00:10 | |
where I hope to discover great food in places that many might consider | 0:00:10 | 0:00:13 | |
are well off the well-worn path to the Costas. | 0:00:13 | 0:00:18 | |
Well, I've got particular sort of soulful interest in Spain, really. | 0:00:20 | 0:00:24 | |
I first went there when I was eight. | 0:00:24 | 0:00:27 | |
My lasting memory was the food and the sort of strangeness of it | 0:00:27 | 0:00:32 | |
and I have, at the back of my mind, | 0:00:32 | 0:00:34 | |
a sort of sense of the remoteness of Spain but, of course, | 0:00:34 | 0:00:37 | |
I've been there many times since | 0:00:37 | 0:00:39 | |
and you have, at the back, the sort of memories of the civil war, | 0:00:39 | 0:00:43 | |
the Catholicism, the austerity of it. | 0:00:43 | 0:00:46 | |
But now a sort of... a lightening of everything | 0:00:46 | 0:00:48 | |
and I'm really fascinated to go out there | 0:00:48 | 0:00:51 | |
and see how the contrast works. | 0:00:51 | 0:00:54 | |
Is it still the old Spain or is Spain becoming part | 0:00:54 | 0:00:57 | |
of the sort of new Europe, and is the food changing? | 0:00:57 | 0:01:00 | |
Is it still the old sort of bean stews and quite heavy peasant food, | 0:01:00 | 0:01:04 | |
or is it the food of all those you know, Michelin starred chefs | 0:01:04 | 0:01:08 | |
that are sort of ruling the world as far as food is concerned? | 0:01:08 | 0:01:11 | |
It's just going to be so interesting. | 0:01:11 | 0:01:14 | |
The ferry from Plymouth to Santander arrived at lunch time, | 0:01:50 | 0:01:54 | |
our lunch time, not 2:30 in the afternoon, when the Spanish eat. | 0:01:54 | 0:01:59 | |
I thought I could smell cooking from the nearby houses around the port. | 0:01:59 | 0:02:04 | |
I was famished and so I made a beeline to the fisherman's quarter, | 0:02:04 | 0:02:07 | |
a stones throw from where the boat comes in. | 0:02:07 | 0:02:11 | |
Here, various restaurants and bars were vying for trade | 0:02:11 | 0:02:15 | |
giving open cookery demonstrations outside their establishments. | 0:02:15 | 0:02:19 | |
Most of them were making forms of paella... | 0:02:19 | 0:02:23 | |
Something I've been thinking about all morning. | 0:02:23 | 0:02:27 | |
Bravo! | 0:02:27 | 0:02:28 | |
HE SPEAKS SPANISH | 0:02:28 | 0:02:30 | |
OK, oh, yeah, no problem. | 0:02:30 | 0:02:33 | |
He said come back in 20 minutes and I did and it didn't disappoint. | 0:02:33 | 0:02:38 | |
As I thought, that's as good a paella as I've ever had. Lovely. | 0:02:42 | 0:02:47 | |
I'm really looking forward to the next dish after the paella | 0:02:47 | 0:02:50 | |
which is merluza a la plancha | 0:02:50 | 0:02:53 | |
which is hake cooked on a griddle but doesn't "a la plancha" sound | 0:02:53 | 0:02:56 | |
so much better than griddled hake? | 0:02:56 | 0:02:58 | |
Spanish restaurants like this are a bit like Chinese restaurants. | 0:02:58 | 0:03:01 | |
There's no decor anywhere. Stone floor, no carpets | 0:03:01 | 0:03:05 | |
and one of the things that you always notice | 0:03:05 | 0:03:08 | |
in Spanish restaurants - the telly is on all day, day or night. | 0:03:08 | 0:03:12 | |
Nobody watches it, but it's there in the background. | 0:03:12 | 0:03:15 | |
And also, the thing I like about it | 0:03:15 | 0:03:17 | |
is that people are allowed to smoke in here. Now, I don't smoke myself, | 0:03:17 | 0:03:21 | |
but there's a certain sort of freedom, | 0:03:21 | 0:03:23 | |
a sort of bohemianism about Spain. | 0:03:23 | 0:03:27 | |
You know, you can elect | 0:03:27 | 0:03:28 | |
to have smoking in your restaurant or bar or not. | 0:03:28 | 0:03:31 | |
Seems so much more sensible. | 0:03:31 | 0:03:33 | |
Finally, have to mention the wine. | 0:03:33 | 0:03:35 | |
I mean, they're so lucky on the North coast of Spain | 0:03:35 | 0:03:38 | |
to have Albarino. It's actually from Galicia. | 0:03:38 | 0:03:43 | |
It's got a lovely sort of lemony acidity, SO good with seafood. | 0:03:43 | 0:03:47 | |
Yum. | 0:03:49 | 0:03:50 | |
Just thinking really about, er, what British people think of Spanish food | 0:03:54 | 0:04:01 | |
and I'm very much conditioned by my parents | 0:04:01 | 0:04:04 | |
who used to say it was filthy. Everything's swimming in olive oil. | 0:04:04 | 0:04:08 | |
And in literature, people like Byron, Virginia Woolf | 0:04:08 | 0:04:12 | |
all said the same thing - | 0:04:12 | 0:04:13 | |
Fatty meat, dry, old, stale bread, all that sort of thing. | 0:04:13 | 0:04:19 | |
But if you think about it, in the last 40 years, | 0:04:19 | 0:04:22 | |
British people have become much more aware of foreign food | 0:04:22 | 0:04:27 | |
and I suspect the truth of it is that it's just foreign | 0:04:27 | 0:04:31 | |
and I think when I find this food, the food I'm looking, | 0:04:31 | 0:04:35 | |
sort of hidden dishes, the peasant dishes, | 0:04:35 | 0:04:38 | |
then I'll find them very much more acceptable than my parents | 0:04:38 | 0:04:42 | |
or Virginia Woolf or indeed Lord Byron. | 0:04:42 | 0:04:45 | |
MUSIC: "El Cid" by Miklos Rozsa | 0:04:45 | 0:04:51 | |
This music, by Miklos Rozsa, is really important to me | 0:04:51 | 0:04:56 | |
because as a teenager, I saw El Cid around seven times | 0:04:56 | 0:05:00 | |
and from that cinematic moment, I was hooked on Spain. | 0:05:00 | 0:05:04 | |
Up until the 20th century, writers how came here | 0:05:07 | 0:05:10 | |
were more like bold adventurers. | 0:05:10 | 0:05:12 | |
They came for its wild and remote landscapes, spiritual sustenance | 0:05:14 | 0:05:18 | |
and yes, the whole romance - duende, as they say - that is Spain. | 0:05:18 | 0:05:24 | |
But not for its food. | 0:05:24 | 0:05:27 | |
But the real everyday food of Spain and it's part in history | 0:05:30 | 0:05:35 | |
will be the centre of my quest. | 0:05:35 | 0:05:37 | |
I'm helplessly addicted to Monty Python. | 0:05:45 | 0:05:48 | |
I remember that bit in The Life of Brian | 0:05:48 | 0:05:50 | |
when this Jewish guy says, "What have the Romans done for us?" | 0:05:50 | 0:05:53 | |
Well, you could imagine a Spaniard saying, | 0:05:53 | 0:05:56 | |
"What have the Moors done for us?" | 0:05:56 | 0:05:58 | |
Well, rice, oranges, lemons, saffron, almonds, | 0:05:58 | 0:06:02 | |
spices like cumin and coriander, pomegranates, | 0:06:02 | 0:06:05 | |
aubergines, melons, oh, and irrigation. | 0:06:05 | 0:06:09 | |
And this is my secret valley, studded with olive trees, | 0:06:13 | 0:06:17 | |
that lies in Andalucia. | 0:06:17 | 0:06:19 | |
It's here, in a converted farm house which has a splendid kitchen, | 0:06:19 | 0:06:24 | |
that I'll be cooking all the dishes I've discovered from my travels. | 0:06:24 | 0:06:28 | |
Beautiful dishes like roasted red peppers | 0:06:30 | 0:06:33 | |
stuffed with creamy salt cod and garlic, | 0:06:33 | 0:06:35 | |
and fantastic meatballs, stewed with cuttlefish. | 0:06:35 | 0:06:39 | |
And I love this dish of lentils made with Serrano ham. | 0:06:39 | 0:06:43 | |
But all that is yet to come | 0:06:43 | 0:06:45 | |
because my journey starts in the north west, Galicia. | 0:06:45 | 0:06:51 | |
The Moors never really settled here. | 0:06:51 | 0:06:53 | |
The Romans did and before them, the Celts. | 0:06:53 | 0:06:56 | |
It's very much like Cornwall or the West Coast of Ireland. | 0:06:56 | 0:06:59 | |
I've heard it said that Galicia is cows, Celts, fishing boats and fog. | 0:06:59 | 0:07:06 | |
I borrowed this campervan off a friend of mine | 0:07:06 | 0:07:09 | |
and he calls it Campy. | 0:07:09 | 0:07:11 | |
It sort of reminds me a bit of a vehicle that a retired librarian | 0:07:11 | 0:07:15 | |
and his missus might take touring Europe. | 0:07:15 | 0:07:18 | |
No offence to librarians, you understand. | 0:07:18 | 0:07:21 | |
But actually, it's quite useful. | 0:07:21 | 0:07:24 | |
I'm sort of rather a fan of Don Quixote | 0:07:24 | 0:07:26 | |
and it's a bit like, er, Rocinante, | 0:07:26 | 0:07:29 | |
you know, the slightly tired old nag that he had to take him round Spain. | 0:07:29 | 0:07:34 | |
This is the same and, d'you know what? | 0:07:34 | 0:07:37 | |
I'm sort of thinking it's got quite a nice little cooker in the back | 0:07:37 | 0:07:40 | |
and a fridge and some nice little worktops. | 0:07:40 | 0:07:44 | |
When I'm staying in hotels most of the time | 0:07:44 | 0:07:46 | |
I can probably buy some things from the market and do a bit of cooking. | 0:07:46 | 0:07:49 | |
So, I'm actually beginning to rather like it. | 0:07:49 | 0:07:52 | |
All over the landscape of Galicia | 0:07:55 | 0:07:57 | |
are these tomb-like granaries for storing corn cobs. | 0:07:57 | 0:08:00 | |
They're raised on stone mushrooms to keep out the damp and the rats. | 0:08:00 | 0:08:05 | |
To me, time seems to move increasingly slowly in these parts | 0:08:07 | 0:08:11 | |
as the rest of the world speeds up. | 0:08:11 | 0:08:13 | |
This is one of the most common vegetables in Galicia. | 0:08:17 | 0:08:20 | |
It's called grelos and thrives in the damp weather. | 0:08:20 | 0:08:24 | |
It's like a cross between kale and cabbage | 0:08:24 | 0:08:27 | |
and this is the House of Juan, a small restaurant, | 0:08:27 | 0:08:31 | |
'where only traditional Galician dishes are cooked. | 0:08:31 | 0:08:34 | |
'Here, the chef, Maria Jose, | 0:08:34 | 0:08:36 | |
'is cooking the most famous Galician dish, Cocido. | 0:08:36 | 0:08:40 | |
'The base of it is the pig's head.' | 0:08:40 | 0:08:43 | |
Good lord! | 0:08:43 | 0:08:44 | |
'Well, I did ask to see something really authentic. | 0:08:44 | 0:08:47 | |
'Now in goes the grelos, straight from the freezer, | 0:08:47 | 0:08:50 | |
'into the same stock the head was cooked in. | 0:08:50 | 0:08:53 | |
'Notice she gives it a huge whack of salt. | 0:08:53 | 0:08:55 | |
'Well, we're miles away from the salt police. | 0:08:55 | 0:08:57 | |
'Lots of other cuts of the pig | 0:08:57 | 0:08:59 | |
'are also cooked, with chickpeas and potatoes. | 0:08:59 | 0:09:03 | |
'I'd arranged to meet up with John Barlow, | 0:09:03 | 0:09:05 | |
'the food writer whose book Everything But The Squeal, | 0:09:05 | 0:09:09 | |
'describes why he loves the place so much. | 0:09:09 | 0:09:12 | |
'So I asked him, "What's the quintessential Galician dish?"' | 0:09:12 | 0:09:15 | |
This is it, this is it, yeah. | 0:09:15 | 0:09:17 | |
So there'd be a stew. Hog stew with grelos, that's it. | 0:09:17 | 0:09:20 | |
That's the one thing, when there's like a festival | 0:09:20 | 0:09:23 | |
or some sort of winter holiday, | 0:09:23 | 0:09:25 | |
that's what everybody has on a Sunday, you know. | 0:09:25 | 0:09:27 | |
Front shoulder of pork, the head, | 0:09:27 | 0:09:30 | |
some grelos, potatoes, chickpeas, that kind of thing. | 0:09:30 | 0:09:33 | |
All cooked for four hours, five hours. | 0:09:33 | 0:09:35 | |
The number one thing. | 0:09:35 | 0:09:36 | |
Because we were once filming in Wales, in Merthyr Tydfil, | 0:09:36 | 0:09:40 | |
where they have a thing called cawl which is the same sort of dish | 0:09:40 | 0:09:43 | |
but it's like an all-in-one-pot stew | 0:09:43 | 0:09:46 | |
and we asked a few locals there whether they liked to eat this, | 0:09:46 | 0:09:51 | |
and they just said, "No, no, no, it's all... We like McDonalds". | 0:09:51 | 0:09:55 | |
Oh, no, no. That's our... | 0:09:55 | 0:09:57 | |
it's something you notice straightaway about Galicia | 0:09:57 | 0:10:00 | |
is they're still in contact with these recipes. | 0:10:00 | 0:10:02 | |
No matter how much money you've got or how, you know, swanky you are, | 0:10:02 | 0:10:06 | |
this is what you want to do to celebrate your Galicianess, | 0:10:06 | 0:10:09 | |
would be to have a bit of shoulder of ham, | 0:10:09 | 0:10:11 | |
some pig's head, some grelos. | 0:10:11 | 0:10:13 | |
This is the big family thing on a Sunday. This is what people do | 0:10:13 | 0:10:17 | |
when they spend three or four hours, perhaps, eating it | 0:10:17 | 0:10:19 | |
and so it's very different from the rest of Spain. | 0:10:19 | 0:10:22 | |
Just as a matter of interest, before we start, how many, | 0:10:23 | 0:10:28 | |
ask Maria how many this would serve. | 0:10:28 | 0:10:30 | |
THEY SPEAK SPANISH | 0:10:30 | 0:10:33 | |
Seven or eight. | 0:10:35 | 0:10:36 | |
-Seven or eight. -Yeah. -Big appetites. | 0:10:36 | 0:10:40 | |
Well, I can't believe this. I mean, I've got every bit of the pig here. | 0:10:40 | 0:10:43 | |
I've got the, the, I've got the ribs, I've got the shoulder, | 0:10:43 | 0:10:47 | |
I've got the snout, I've got chorizas. | 0:10:47 | 0:10:50 | |
I've got everything but the squeal! | 0:10:50 | 0:10:52 | |
Well, I never expected in my wildest dreams a week ago in England | 0:10:56 | 0:11:02 | |
to be slicing through a pig's muzzle... | 0:11:02 | 0:11:04 | |
but it's utterly delicious. | 0:11:04 | 0:11:07 | |
The whole thing is delicious. I mean this is great. | 0:11:07 | 0:11:11 | |
Got every part of the pig. I've got the grelos. | 0:11:11 | 0:11:14 | |
Will you just thank Maria and just say...? | 0:11:14 | 0:11:17 | |
THEY SPEAK SPANISH | 0:11:17 | 0:11:20 | |
-Gracias. -Salud. -Salud. -Salud. | 0:11:25 | 0:11:29 | |
This is Oseira Monastery, | 0:11:29 | 0:11:31 | |
where Graham Greene would come from time to time | 0:11:31 | 0:11:34 | |
to help strengthen his belief in Catholicism. | 0:11:34 | 0:11:37 | |
These somewhat depressing, dark and no doubt damp walls | 0:11:37 | 0:11:41 | |
really do suit the mood of the melancholic world of Greene-land. | 0:11:41 | 0:11:46 | |
But it's in nearby Santiago de Compostela | 0:11:48 | 0:11:51 | |
that all the world comes to pay homage to St James, | 0:11:51 | 0:11:54 | |
since his bones were found by a shepherd in a field, | 0:11:54 | 0:11:59 | |
illuminated by stars. | 0:11:59 | 0:12:01 | |
Since then, pilgrims have been making this journey on foot | 0:12:01 | 0:12:04 | |
for over 1,000 years, from all over Europe. | 0:12:04 | 0:12:07 | |
It was a great medieval tourist destination | 0:12:07 | 0:12:10 | |
symbolised by a scallop shell. | 0:12:10 | 0:12:13 | |
Nothing could match it. | 0:12:13 | 0:12:15 | |
The great and the good, the sick and the not-so-good | 0:12:15 | 0:12:18 | |
have paid homage to St James here. | 0:12:18 | 0:12:21 | |
I love this, it's called a Botafumeiro. | 0:12:27 | 0:12:32 | |
I remember a very excited Keith Floyd | 0:12:32 | 0:12:34 | |
telling me about it years ago | 0:12:34 | 0:12:36 | |
saying that it was the size of car and belching out perfumed smoke. | 0:12:36 | 0:12:41 | |
In fact, it's the size of a milk churn | 0:12:41 | 0:12:44 | |
and it's a medieval air freshener, because the pilgrims that came here | 0:12:44 | 0:12:49 | |
weren't exactly the sweetest smelling bunch, | 0:12:49 | 0:12:52 | |
after months on the trail. | 0:12:52 | 0:12:54 | |
It's amazing how something so practical | 0:12:54 | 0:12:56 | |
takes on a real religious significance | 0:12:56 | 0:13:00 | |
Pilgrims have always been big business here | 0:13:00 | 0:13:02 | |
and the little bars surrounding the cathedral | 0:13:02 | 0:13:06 | |
make a great lunch time trade. | 0:13:06 | 0:13:08 | |
The most popular thing on any menu here is empanada, | 0:13:08 | 0:13:12 | |
a bit like our Cornish Pasty. | 0:13:12 | 0:13:14 | |
But to see how they're made, I had to come here at 6:00 in the morning | 0:13:14 | 0:13:19 | |
to see Trinidad, who's been making them for years. | 0:13:19 | 0:13:22 | |
She covers the pastry with a sauce made with softened onions, | 0:13:22 | 0:13:25 | |
peppers and garlic and loads of oil. | 0:13:25 | 0:13:27 | |
Then strips of conger eel, cheap as chips straight from the market | 0:13:27 | 0:13:31 | |
and a smattering of tomato sauce. | 0:13:31 | 0:13:34 | |
Now even more olive oil and, finally, on goes the top. | 0:13:34 | 0:13:40 | |
Incidentally, this isn't a short crust pastry. | 0:13:40 | 0:13:44 | |
It's made more like a bread dough but because it's been made with oil, | 0:13:44 | 0:13:48 | |
it has an elastic quality to it. | 0:13:48 | 0:13:51 | |
On the dot of 8:00, the local baker lady comes round | 0:13:51 | 0:13:54 | |
to take it to her oven which is cooling down | 0:13:54 | 0:13:57 | |
from baking that morning's bread. | 0:13:57 | 0:13:59 | |
The earliest records show that these little pies | 0:14:00 | 0:14:04 | |
started to appear when the Moors invaded Spain. | 0:14:04 | 0:14:07 | |
The most popular filling here in Santiago, | 0:14:07 | 0:14:10 | |
being near the sea, is fish. | 0:14:10 | 0:14:12 | |
This particular one has octopus in it, very Galician. | 0:14:12 | 0:14:16 | |
Anyway, all I can say is that it's one of life's pleasures | 0:14:16 | 0:14:20 | |
to taste a freshly baked empanada with a cup of local wine. Muy bueno! | 0:14:20 | 0:14:26 | |
For hundreds of years, | 0:14:29 | 0:14:31 | |
pilgrims have come to this street to have their first decent meal | 0:14:31 | 0:14:35 | |
after weeks or months of being on the road, | 0:14:35 | 0:14:38 | |
and even now it's still catering for the weary travellers. | 0:14:38 | 0:14:42 | |
Just looking around here, it's really whetting my appetite. | 0:14:42 | 0:14:45 | |
Everywhere I look there are appetising plates of food. | 0:14:45 | 0:14:48 | |
There's a good little market near the Cathedral. It's called Abastos. | 0:14:51 | 0:14:54 | |
It's a bit like a farmer's market. | 0:14:54 | 0:14:58 | |
And right amongst it is a tiny restaurant, | 0:14:58 | 0:15:02 | |
run by a couple of young guys called Jargo and Marcos. | 0:15:02 | 0:15:05 | |
Because their restaurant is so small, | 0:15:05 | 0:15:07 | |
they've had to come up with novel ideas on how to use | 0:15:07 | 0:15:10 | |
-all available resources to the best advantage. -Only ten seconds. | 0:15:10 | 0:15:14 | |
Witness the first time I've ever seen cockles | 0:15:14 | 0:15:17 | |
cooked in ten seconds... | 0:15:17 | 0:15:19 | |
by the steam from an espresso machine. | 0:15:19 | 0:15:22 | |
That's all you need for a tapas dish. | 0:15:22 | 0:15:25 | |
The cockles couldn't be better. | 0:15:25 | 0:15:27 | |
Sweet and firm and not a hint of coffee. | 0:15:27 | 0:15:31 | |
Today we are going to choose, er, the best fish. | 0:15:32 | 0:15:36 | |
-Yeah. -I think that we, er, | 0:15:36 | 0:15:38 | |
there is a hake, a very good hake. | 0:15:38 | 0:15:40 | |
And seafood. | 0:15:40 | 0:15:42 | |
I love seafood. My, my passion. | 0:15:42 | 0:15:44 | |
Let's go to the seafood. | 0:15:44 | 0:15:46 | |
OK. | 0:15:46 | 0:15:47 | |
THEY SPEAK SPANISH | 0:15:56 | 0:15:59 | |
How much would they be about? | 0:16:01 | 0:16:02 | |
HE SPEAKS SPANISH | 0:16:02 | 0:16:04 | |
And how will you cook those? | 0:16:05 | 0:16:07 | |
Yes, today. Er, pot of hot water. | 0:16:07 | 0:16:11 | |
-And salt? -Yeah. | 0:16:12 | 0:16:15 | |
-A laurel, laurel. -Laurel? | 0:16:15 | 0:16:18 | |
-Laurel. -Oh, er, bay leaf. | 0:16:18 | 0:16:19 | |
-Yeah. -Bay leaf. | 0:16:19 | 0:16:21 | |
-Let's go? -Let's go. | 0:16:26 | 0:16:29 | |
THEY SPEAK SPANISH | 0:16:29 | 0:16:32 | |
He has to work now. | 0:16:32 | 0:16:33 | |
He's gotta work, he's gotta work. OK. Fine. | 0:16:33 | 0:16:37 | |
'Yes, he's gotta work and we'd held him up so much | 0:16:37 | 0:16:41 | |
'I felt honour bound to give him a hand.' | 0:16:41 | 0:16:44 | |
Well, I must say, I didn't know I was gonna get enrolled | 0:16:44 | 0:16:46 | |
to doing a bit of prep when I turned up here this morning | 0:16:46 | 0:16:50 | |
but they're so short. They've got this lunch for 12 people. | 0:16:50 | 0:16:53 | |
They're gonna shut the restaurant, | 0:16:53 | 0:16:56 | |
but it's really a very elaborate affair | 0:16:56 | 0:16:58 | |
and of course I can only help them. | 0:16:58 | 0:17:00 | |
They've only been open for three months. | 0:17:00 | 0:17:03 | |
Basically it's such a good idea | 0:17:03 | 0:17:04 | |
and it's so nice to see young people getting involved like this. | 0:17:04 | 0:17:07 | |
I mean, gosh, if I was their age I'd be so excited. | 0:17:07 | 0:17:11 | |
Set up in this lovely little restaurant, | 0:17:11 | 0:17:13 | |
next to a lovely market and just going round the market every day, | 0:17:13 | 0:17:17 | |
buying what you want for that day's cooking only. | 0:17:17 | 0:17:19 | |
Changing the menu every day | 0:17:19 | 0:17:21 | |
so you could just cook what's best in the market. | 0:17:21 | 0:17:24 | |
I mean, it's like every chef's dream. | 0:17:24 | 0:17:26 | |
HE SPEAKS SPANISH | 0:17:28 | 0:17:30 | |
This sort of cooking is right up my street. | 0:17:37 | 0:17:39 | |
I mean, first of all, | 0:17:39 | 0:17:40 | |
he's just saying he's only cooking these clams "a la plancha" - | 0:17:40 | 0:17:43 | |
which means on the griddle - for two minutes, | 0:17:43 | 0:17:46 | |
and just saying that quite a lot of those Galician customers | 0:17:46 | 0:17:49 | |
like them cooked longer | 0:17:49 | 0:17:50 | |
but he just like likes them cooked as little as that. | 0:17:50 | 0:17:53 | |
This is the sort of way that I think Spanish food is so perfect. | 0:17:53 | 0:17:58 | |
It's sort of like Japanese food in a way. | 0:17:58 | 0:18:00 | |
The best ingredients, cooked as simply as possible | 0:18:00 | 0:18:03 | |
and now he's just adding a little bit of oil on top of there. | 0:18:03 | 0:18:07 | |
Just look at those on the plate there. | 0:18:07 | 0:18:09 | |
Just a little thin stream of oil | 0:18:09 | 0:18:11 | |
and then just some fried parsley. | 0:18:11 | 0:18:15 | |
I mean, that is just simple, perfect expression of great sea food. | 0:18:15 | 0:18:21 | |
He's a clever boy, Marcos, | 0:18:21 | 0:18:22 | |
because it's hard to do things simple like this. It really is. | 0:18:22 | 0:18:26 | |
To sort of... You know, the way of most chefs | 0:18:26 | 0:18:28 | |
is to make things difficult. | 0:18:28 | 0:18:30 | |
It's the sort of Michelin Guide way, actually, as well, | 0:18:30 | 0:18:33 | |
is to take something perfectly simple, | 0:18:33 | 0:18:35 | |
made by God and muck it up | 0:18:35 | 0:18:38 | |
and he hasn't done it and I love him for it. | 0:18:38 | 0:18:41 | |
As I said at the beginning, | 0:18:42 | 0:18:44 | |
this is where I'm going to cook the dishes I'm discovering on my journey | 0:18:44 | 0:18:48 | |
and the first is a tapas of mussels. | 0:18:48 | 0:18:50 | |
Well, before I start cooking this little tapas from Galicia, | 0:18:50 | 0:18:54 | |
I just have to say that all the journey, | 0:18:54 | 0:18:56 | |
throughout the whole of Spain, I was dreaming of being able to cook | 0:18:56 | 0:18:59 | |
my own version of Spanish food in somewhere like this. | 0:18:59 | 0:19:02 | |
I mean, you could not cook a duff dish | 0:19:02 | 0:19:05 | |
with a view like that, could you? | 0:19:05 | 0:19:07 | |
Anyway, I first had this mussel dish | 0:19:07 | 0:19:10 | |
in a tapas bar in Santiago de Compostela in Galicia | 0:19:10 | 0:19:15 | |
and what I really liked about it is the vinaigrette was quite tart. | 0:19:15 | 0:19:18 | |
More vinegar, actually, than I'd normally put in, | 0:19:18 | 0:19:21 | |
but it seemed to go terribly well | 0:19:21 | 0:19:22 | |
with the ice cold Galician beer at the time. | 0:19:22 | 0:19:24 | |
Well, first off, I'm going to open them | 0:19:24 | 0:19:28 | |
with just a splash of dry sherry. | 0:19:28 | 0:19:31 | |
And these will take about two or three minutes, no longer. | 0:19:31 | 0:19:35 | |
Cos as soon as they've opened, I wanna take them off. | 0:19:35 | 0:19:38 | |
And to help them cooking, I just put a lid on. | 0:19:38 | 0:19:41 | |
So after a couple of minutes, they're done. | 0:19:44 | 0:19:46 | |
Just strain them and serve them up. | 0:19:46 | 0:19:48 | |
This is a great starter when you have loads of friends round | 0:19:48 | 0:19:51 | |
and you're waiting for the main course to cook. | 0:19:51 | 0:19:54 | |
They look so appetising. | 0:19:54 | 0:19:57 | |
I keep reading in cookery books and elsewhere | 0:19:58 | 0:20:02 | |
about how you should throw away mussels that don't open. | 0:20:02 | 0:20:06 | |
I just think that's total rubbish, actually. | 0:20:06 | 0:20:09 | |
You should throw away mussels that are open | 0:20:09 | 0:20:11 | |
before you start cooking, are well open, | 0:20:11 | 0:20:13 | |
in other words, when you give them a little tap, they don't close. | 0:20:13 | 0:20:17 | |
Actually the ones that are still closed when you finish cooking | 0:20:17 | 0:20:21 | |
are perfectly all right to eat. Total waste to throw them away. | 0:20:21 | 0:20:26 | |
So to make this zingy dressing, you need peppers. | 0:20:26 | 0:20:29 | |
I like those long gnarly ones called Romano Peppers. | 0:20:29 | 0:20:33 | |
Cut them up finely, because you're not going to cook them | 0:20:33 | 0:20:36 | |
and they mustn't be chunky in the finished sauce. | 0:20:36 | 0:20:39 | |
What I like about cooking in Spain is it's all about the ingredients, | 0:20:39 | 0:20:43 | |
all about the freshness of them and the colour of them | 0:20:43 | 0:20:46 | |
and the cooking is simple and straightforward. | 0:20:46 | 0:20:48 | |
I just remember a very early experience going into a tapas bar. | 0:20:48 | 0:20:52 | |
Must have been about 16, I suppose. It was in Majorca | 0:20:52 | 0:20:55 | |
and they'd just cooked some mussels a la plancha - | 0:20:55 | 0:20:58 | |
it means "on a big griddle" - | 0:20:58 | 0:20:59 | |
Threw the mussels onto the griddle, put an old tin, | 0:20:59 | 0:21:03 | |
a sweet tin lid in top, I guess just to retain the steam, | 0:21:03 | 0:21:06 | |
scooped them up, put them on a plate on the bar. | 0:21:06 | 0:21:09 | |
Beer, mussel, fab. | 0:21:09 | 0:21:12 | |
So now some salty capers and they go in with the chopped up gherkins | 0:21:12 | 0:21:16 | |
I prepared before, and of course, there's a red onion in there too. | 0:21:16 | 0:21:21 | |
Now chopped parsley. | 0:21:21 | 0:21:23 | |
All you need to do now is to liquidise a skinned tomato | 0:21:23 | 0:21:26 | |
with lashings of olive oil | 0:21:26 | 0:21:28 | |
and that great Spanish invention, sherry vinegar. | 0:21:28 | 0:21:32 | |
I just love it, I'm a convert. | 0:21:32 | 0:21:34 | |
Out with the balsamic, in with the sherry! | 0:21:34 | 0:21:37 | |
Season to taste. In my case, | 0:21:37 | 0:21:40 | |
possibly a tad too much salt but that's me. | 0:21:40 | 0:21:43 | |
And then give it good whiz | 0:21:43 | 0:21:45 | |
because this liquid is the heart of the sauce. | 0:21:45 | 0:21:48 | |
I really does make a lovely change from moules mariniere | 0:21:51 | 0:21:55 | |
and it looks so deliciously summery | 0:21:55 | 0:21:57 | |
but fresh mussels at home | 0:21:57 | 0:21:59 | |
are at their tippy top best in the autumn and winter months. | 0:21:59 | 0:22:03 | |
This is a fab way to brighten up those dark evenings. | 0:22:03 | 0:22:06 | |
Mussels vinaigrette followed by a cold beer. | 0:22:06 | 0:22:11 | |
Asturias is the neighbouring region to Galicia | 0:22:22 | 0:22:25 | |
on my journey to the east, a hard mountainous place. | 0:22:25 | 0:22:30 | |
This is the land the Moors who had conquered most of Spain gave up on. | 0:22:30 | 0:22:34 | |
It was the mountains that defeated them. | 0:22:34 | 0:22:37 | |
Although they had large, well-trained armies, | 0:22:37 | 0:22:40 | |
this unforgiving landscape was too much. | 0:22:40 | 0:22:43 | |
Well, that and the rebellious spirit of the Asturians | 0:22:43 | 0:22:46 | |
who were widely known as fierce fighters. | 0:22:46 | 0:22:49 | |
One Spanish writer, Jesus Fernandez Santos, | 0:22:49 | 0:22:52 | |
on a journey from the plains of Castile to the Atlantic, | 0:22:52 | 0:22:56 | |
described it as like entering the threshold of a promised land. | 0:22:56 | 0:23:01 | |
Actually, my knowledge of Spanish is OK in the food department. | 0:23:09 | 0:23:13 | |
I can get all this stuff. | 0:23:13 | 0:23:16 | |
"Sidreria", well, that's a cider house, of course. | 0:23:16 | 0:23:19 | |
"Casa Poli", that's the name of it. | 0:23:19 | 0:23:21 | |
"Quesos", cheeses, obviously. | 0:23:21 | 0:23:24 | |
"Tradicional Asturiana", | 0:23:24 | 0:23:27 | |
obviously, traditional Asturian cooking. | 0:23:27 | 0:23:31 | |
Just my sort of place. | 0:23:31 | 0:23:33 | |
The chef at Casa Poli is called Luis | 0:23:33 | 0:23:36 | |
and he's going to make a popular local dish. | 0:23:36 | 0:23:38 | |
When I was looking down the list of dishes from Asturias, | 0:23:38 | 0:23:41 | |
this one really caught my attention | 0:23:41 | 0:23:44 | |
because we don't do a lot of fish with cider back at home | 0:23:44 | 0:23:48 | |
but, of course, they do here | 0:23:48 | 0:23:50 | |
and I think this is the most famous fish-in-cider dish, | 0:23:50 | 0:23:54 | |
isn't it, Luis, very famous? | 0:23:54 | 0:23:56 | |
Si, yes, it's muy famous. | 0:23:56 | 0:23:58 | |
This is a typical way of cooking here in northern Spain. | 0:23:58 | 0:24:02 | |
It reminds me of classic and basic French provincial cooking. | 0:24:02 | 0:24:05 | |
We're not all that far from the border with France | 0:24:05 | 0:24:08 | |
and so I bet there's been | 0:24:08 | 0:24:10 | |
a little crossover of influences here over the years. | 0:24:10 | 0:24:14 | |
There's fried onions, olive oil and flour to make a rue | 0:24:14 | 0:24:18 | |
and then Luis adds fish stock | 0:24:18 | 0:24:20 | |
and, on a low heat, he gently thickens it and cooks out the floor. | 0:24:20 | 0:24:24 | |
I feel really privileged making these series | 0:24:27 | 0:24:29 | |
because it is about coming into the kitchens in somewhere like Spain, | 0:24:29 | 0:24:32 | |
particularly where the food is really simple | 0:24:32 | 0:24:36 | |
and just seeing what the telling details are. | 0:24:36 | 0:24:39 | |
Once you see something like that, like the degree he cooks the onion, | 0:24:39 | 0:24:42 | |
like turning off the heat before he adds the flour so it doesn't burn, | 0:24:42 | 0:24:46 | |
those are all the details you don't really get in recipes. | 0:24:46 | 0:24:50 | |
Now he puts in some Asturian cider. | 0:24:50 | 0:24:53 | |
This is really sharp and dry | 0:24:53 | 0:24:55 | |
which will give the sauce a touch of acidity. | 0:24:55 | 0:24:58 | |
It's not a bad thing when cooking fish, it's like lemon juice. | 0:24:58 | 0:25:02 | |
And then he puts in fresh peas, but I suspect, | 0:25:02 | 0:25:05 | |
given the right time of year, | 0:25:05 | 0:25:08 | |
he could easily have used wild asparagus or tiny broad beans. | 0:25:08 | 0:25:12 | |
Time to taste. | 0:25:12 | 0:25:13 | |
Very acid. Very acid. | 0:25:13 | 0:25:16 | |
-But now with the sugar. -OK. -Mmm. | 0:25:16 | 0:25:18 | |
HE SPEAKS SPANISH | 0:25:18 | 0:25:20 | |
OK. | 0:25:20 | 0:25:21 | |
I think this is a seriously handy thing to know. | 0:25:23 | 0:25:27 | |
I'll make sure my chefs get to see this. | 0:25:27 | 0:25:29 | |
A really simple way, even with this huge knife, | 0:25:29 | 0:25:33 | |
to cut hake into bone free steaks. | 0:25:33 | 0:25:36 | |
He's actually cutting the bone out of each one of these steaks | 0:25:36 | 0:25:39 | |
and just pulling it out. I've never seen that done before. | 0:25:39 | 0:25:43 | |
It'd be quite easy to do with hake | 0:25:43 | 0:25:45 | |
because they have a sort of plate structure around here | 0:25:45 | 0:25:48 | |
rather than bone, so you can get them out easily | 0:25:48 | 0:25:51 | |
but it produces a really nice, neat fillet of fish. | 0:25:51 | 0:25:54 | |
Now you can see what I mean about poaching in a pre-made sauce. | 0:25:54 | 0:25:58 | |
You put this on a stove with the minimum of heat | 0:25:58 | 0:26:01 | |
and the fish adds flavour to the sauce. | 0:26:01 | 0:26:04 | |
In fact, this area of Spain along with the Galicia, | 0:26:04 | 0:26:07 | |
Cantabria and the Basque country is known as the Land of Sauces. | 0:26:07 | 0:26:10 | |
In go clams, then some gambas, these large prawns. | 0:26:10 | 0:26:16 | |
They'll cook in seconds, really. | 0:26:16 | 0:26:18 | |
Then, finally, the fish is knapped with the sauce | 0:26:18 | 0:26:21 | |
and finished off with a sprinkling of saffron. | 0:26:21 | 0:26:25 | |
That's a new one on me, I've never used it as a garnish before | 0:26:25 | 0:26:29 | |
and I don't think I will, but when in Rome... | 0:26:29 | 0:26:32 | |
-Please. Very tasty. -Love to. | 0:26:32 | 0:26:35 | |
Perfect way of doing the fish. | 0:26:38 | 0:26:41 | |
And thank you very much. | 0:26:41 | 0:26:44 | |
Mmm. Can't stop eating here! | 0:26:44 | 0:26:46 | |
I thought cider was really popular from Somerset to Cornwall. | 0:26:52 | 0:26:55 | |
I should know because I've drunk quite enough of it in my time, | 0:26:55 | 0:27:00 | |
but here in Asturias, | 0:27:00 | 0:27:02 | |
it is without a shadow of doubt, the most important drink in the region. | 0:27:02 | 0:27:06 | |
Far more important than wine. | 0:27:06 | 0:27:08 | |
This festival in Gijon is one of many to celebrate it. | 0:27:08 | 0:27:13 | |
It's curious, but after a couple of glasses, | 0:27:13 | 0:27:17 | |
you get quite used to the way that they pour things. | 0:27:17 | 0:27:20 | |
Can we do another one? | 0:27:27 | 0:27:29 | |
It's stronger than it looks. Whether a beer or cider festival, | 0:27:29 | 0:27:32 | |
it's an amazing place to meet people. | 0:27:32 | 0:27:35 | |
He's my husband, he's English, I'm Asturias. | 0:27:38 | 0:27:41 | |
-How you doing? -I'm all right. | 0:27:41 | 0:27:43 | |
Just tell us about Asturias. | 0:27:43 | 0:27:46 | |
What does this cider, Asturias cider mean to you Asturians, | 0:27:46 | 0:27:51 | |
people from Asturias? | 0:27:51 | 0:27:53 | |
To me it means our culture, because, the way you pour it, | 0:27:53 | 0:27:56 | |
you drink it straight from, er, bottle. | 0:27:56 | 0:27:58 | |
-It's not the same, it's not broken. It has to break on the side. -Break? | 0:27:58 | 0:28:02 | |
-We call it break, you break the... -Yeah. | 0:28:02 | 0:28:05 | |
And it looks different. | 0:28:05 | 0:28:06 | |
It's not as transparent. It's more... | 0:28:06 | 0:28:08 | |
-Cloudy. -Cloudy? -Yeah, yeah. | 0:28:08 | 0:28:10 | |
Has to be like that, then you're supposed to leave a little | 0:28:10 | 0:28:13 | |
so that you go like that... | 0:28:13 | 0:28:15 | |
-Why? -This is because you all drink from the same glass, -Uh-huh. | 0:28:15 | 0:28:19 | |
So that when you drink, you throw it so it gets clean with the alcohol. | 0:28:19 | 0:28:23 | |
-So where I drink there, I have to drop it here. -Right. | 0:28:23 | 0:28:26 | |
Plus, it means a lot. | 0:28:26 | 0:28:28 | |
We are always drinking cider and party, party. | 0:28:28 | 0:28:30 | |
-Thank you. -Hello to Cornish people, I love Cornwall. | 0:28:30 | 0:28:35 | |
It's was a rather rainy, cold, early Spring evening. | 0:28:35 | 0:28:39 | |
It felt more like Shepton Mallet than Spain. | 0:28:39 | 0:28:41 | |
I've just been watching three of those guys serving the cider, | 0:28:41 | 0:28:46 | |
the cidre and I think macho comes very easily to the Spanish. | 0:28:46 | 0:28:50 | |
The way they were standing there, hand held high, | 0:28:50 | 0:28:53 | |
looking straight in front of them, pouring into the glass. | 0:28:53 | 0:28:57 | |
And I was just watching, they were getting it as close as they could | 0:28:57 | 0:29:00 | |
to their chests and I was thinking, | 0:29:00 | 0:29:02 | |
a bit like a matador in a bull fight. | 0:29:02 | 0:29:03 | |
Not quite so dangerous, I have to say. | 0:29:03 | 0:29:06 | |
You know, when they stand there and the bull's horn goes so close | 0:29:06 | 0:29:10 | |
to their really smart chest. | 0:29:10 | 0:29:11 | |
It's like that, it's the same sort of seriousness on their face. | 0:29:11 | 0:29:15 | |
Love it. Love this too. | 0:29:15 | 0:29:18 | |
One of the things I really like at these local festivals | 0:29:20 | 0:29:24 | |
is to go and buy some of the food that everybody eats | 0:29:24 | 0:29:27 | |
sso I've got some, at some cost to me, I can tell you - | 0:29:27 | 0:29:30 | |
the queue was enormous - some local food. | 0:29:30 | 0:29:33 | |
I just find it so appetising, you know, | 0:29:33 | 0:29:36 | |
much as I like the odd hotdog, this is much more attractive to me. | 0:29:36 | 0:29:40 | |
First of all we've got fabada, that's their sausage, ham and bean stew. | 0:29:40 | 0:29:46 | |
Beans being the most important. | 0:29:46 | 0:29:48 | |
In here we've got tripe. A lot of people don't like tripe but I love it. | 0:29:48 | 0:29:52 | |
Particularly with this is sausage and pimenton, really good way of eating it. | 0:29:52 | 0:29:56 | |
Here we've got more chorizo, well it is Spain, but this time done in cider. I really like that. | 0:29:56 | 0:30:02 | |
It's really nice and acid. | 0:30:02 | 0:30:04 | |
And finally, or course, cabrales cheese, just on a slice of very nice bread. I've tried some already. | 0:30:04 | 0:30:11 | |
Cabrales, the second most famous cheese in all of Spain after manchego. | 0:30:11 | 0:30:16 | |
Number one cheese in Asturias, made from three different milks. | 0:30:16 | 0:30:20 | |
Goat, cow's and ewe milk. Ewe's milk, sorry. | 0:30:20 | 0:30:24 | |
Matured in caves, fantastic. | 0:30:24 | 0:30:27 | |
This is one of the best known cabrales cheese makers in Asturias. | 0:30:35 | 0:30:39 | |
Pepe Barda. | 0:30:39 | 0:30:41 | |
His village of Tielve lies in the heart of the mountains. | 0:30:41 | 0:30:46 | |
And it's the mountains, the Picos de Europa, that is the secret of great success of cabrales. | 0:30:49 | 0:30:57 | |
This is where the cheeses are stored and the limestone is quite porous, so the wind blows through them. | 0:30:57 | 0:31:03 | |
The Spanish call this the "soplao" which means breath. | 0:31:03 | 0:31:07 | |
Good lord, | 0:31:07 | 0:31:10 | |
this is really amazing. | 0:31:10 | 0:31:12 | |
You know, I thought there was going to be some sort of stainless steel here | 0:31:12 | 0:31:17 | |
or something or some vestiges of, er, modernity but it's, it's just a genuine cave | 0:31:17 | 0:31:21 | |
and it's, it's running with water which I'd always heard about these cheeses | 0:31:21 | 0:31:27 | |
like Roquefort, because they need the dampness for the mould to grow. | 0:31:27 | 0:31:30 | |
But it's just amazing up here in the Picos mountains there's still bears out there and wolves. | 0:31:30 | 0:31:36 | |
I mean this is, this is as hidden, as hidden a thing as you can get. | 0:31:36 | 0:31:41 | |
It smells so ripe. | 0:31:41 | 0:31:44 | |
I have to say, cabrales is a cheese for serious cheese lovers. | 0:31:44 | 0:31:48 | |
The first time you taste it you may not quite get it. | 0:31:48 | 0:31:52 | |
It's acidic and has a parmesan-like graininess. | 0:31:52 | 0:31:57 | |
If I saw it on the menu now, | 0:31:57 | 0:31:59 | |
I wouldn't hesitate to be reunited with it and it goes so well with cider. | 0:31:59 | 0:32:05 | |
A friend of mine said I had to be in Oviedo for Easter. | 0:32:14 | 0:32:19 | |
When I see a procession like this and feel its emotional impact, | 0:32:19 | 0:32:25 | |
I yearn for a time when everybody believed. | 0:32:25 | 0:32:28 | |
It's so powerful. | 0:32:28 | 0:32:30 | |
The conical hoods the hard tap, tapping of their staves | 0:32:30 | 0:32:34 | |
echoing through the narrow streets, the flickering faceless eyes. | 0:32:34 | 0:32:38 | |
Everything is designed it seems to put the fear of god in you. | 0:32:38 | 0:32:43 | |
But the adoration of the Madonna and the procession of the penitent is at the heart of this celebration. | 0:32:44 | 0:32:51 | |
They say that god moves in mysterious ways and it doesn't get more mysterious than this. | 0:32:53 | 0:33:00 | |
I've been here a few days and I feel really at home here. | 0:33:04 | 0:33:07 | |
There's something really relaxing for British people about Spain. | 0:33:07 | 0:33:11 | |
It's, well if you compare it with Italy, Italy's all about style, | 0:33:11 | 0:33:15 | |
about the way you look, about the food, about e-everything. | 0:33:15 | 0:33:19 | |
It's gotta be the best pasta, the best tomatoes. | 0:33:19 | 0:33:22 | |
I love all that, don't get me wrong, but there's something relaxing about here a-and the food is understated. | 0:33:22 | 0:33:30 | |
There is great food here but you have to sort of go out and find it. | 0:33:30 | 0:33:34 | |
They don't shout about it. | 0:33:34 | 0:33:36 | |
If you say to them, what do you think of fabada? | 0:33:36 | 0:33:39 | |
It's always like hand on heart, this is where you're really touching me | 0:33:39 | 0:33:43 | |
but you go into restaurants, things are put down in front of you. | 0:33:43 | 0:33:47 | |
There's not a big effort to make it look beautiful but when it's good, it is really good. | 0:33:47 | 0:33:53 | |
And that's what's so exciting to me. It's, it's just going out and finding all those hidden dishes | 0:33:53 | 0:33:58 | |
that you don't really know about. | 0:33:58 | 0:33:59 | |
It really, it really appeals to the sort of explorer in me. | 0:33:59 | 0:34:05 | |
It's impossible here it's seems to me, for an hour to pass without someone mentioning the word fabada, | 0:34:05 | 0:34:13 | |
and here the cook Maria, at Las Penas restaurant makes it virtually every day. | 0:34:13 | 0:34:19 | |
She starts off with chorizos, cured belly pork and a lovely beans, | 0:34:22 | 0:34:27 | |
followed by black pudding and that's cooked gently for three hours. | 0:34:27 | 0:34:32 | |
She adds saffron and butter and it's taking on the colours of the Spanish flag. | 0:34:34 | 0:34:40 | |
It's nearly ready so a quick taste and a tad more salt. | 0:34:40 | 0:34:44 | |
Oh, by the way, you never stir it. | 0:34:44 | 0:34:47 | |
You only shake the pot, otherwise the beans would break up and the black pudding would burst. | 0:34:47 | 0:34:52 | |
This is a sight to gladden the eye of any Asturian. | 0:34:52 | 0:34:55 | |
I've see it in motorway service stations round here... | 0:34:55 | 0:34:59 | |
Fabada Asturiana, the culinary soul of the region. | 0:34:59 | 0:35:04 | |
I know very little, I must say, I'd never heard of Oviedo before I came here. It's a lovely place. | 0:35:17 | 0:35:22 | |
I'm so enjoying the Easter procession. | 0:35:22 | 0:35:25 | |
Turns out Oviedo is the capital of Christian Spain for 200 years. | 0:35:25 | 0:35:31 | |
I didn't know that. I've also just found out that the Prince and Princess of Asturias | 0:35:31 | 0:35:37 | |
are like our Prince and Princess of Wales | 0:35:37 | 0:35:40 | |
and also, get this, the Princess of Asturias comes from Oviedo and her name is Leticia, there you go. | 0:35:40 | 0:35:48 | |
Another iconic dish and one I've cooked many times, is patatas bravas. | 0:35:56 | 0:36:02 | |
It's a dish popular all over Spain and I love it. | 0:36:02 | 0:36:05 | |
Boil some potatoes and drain them. | 0:36:05 | 0:36:08 | |
Then fry a couple of onions with a clove or two of garlic. | 0:36:08 | 0:36:11 | |
Cook till soft and add pimenton. | 0:36:11 | 0:36:15 | |
Well, this is another one that's looking like the Spanish flag. I just can't get over it. | 0:36:15 | 0:36:20 | |
It's just these colours, the colours of Spain in the flag and in the food. | 0:36:20 | 0:36:25 | |
Actually this is, er, bravas sauce, patatas bravas. | 0:36:25 | 0:36:28 | |
It doesn't actually mean "brave potatoes". | 0:36:28 | 0:36:31 | |
It means sort of, er, fierce potatoes. | 0:36:31 | 0:36:34 | |
I think like the Cornish say, it's a brave old storm or it's, it's brave and hot. | 0:36:34 | 0:36:38 | |
It means it's fiercely hot and this is fiercely hot, too. | 0:36:38 | 0:36:41 | |
I've just put loads of chilli in there. | 0:36:41 | 0:36:44 | |
Now I put in chopped tomatoes, tinned are OK, | 0:36:44 | 0:36:48 | |
and then a bit of water and three or four dried bay leaves. | 0:36:48 | 0:36:53 | |
Some sea salt and to balance that, some sugar. | 0:36:53 | 0:36:56 | |
A splash or two of sherry vinegar, I love sherry vinegar, | 0:37:00 | 0:37:04 | |
and that as far as the sauce is concerned, is it. | 0:37:04 | 0:37:07 | |
All that remains is to saute those parboiled potatoes in olive oil. | 0:37:07 | 0:37:12 | |
I had a feeling that shortly after Columbus brought back these things like tomatoes, potatoes, chillies, | 0:37:15 | 0:37:22 | |
little cafes opened mainly in Seville serving up the food of the Americas, | 0:37:22 | 0:37:29 | |
and I wouldn't mind betting that dishes like this were on the menu, obviously minus the food processor. | 0:37:29 | 0:37:36 | |
What better way of showcasing the vegetables and spices of the New World. | 0:37:36 | 0:37:41 | |
What did we do without tomatoes? | 0:37:41 | 0:37:43 | |
Did we all live on turnips like Baldrick in Blackadder? | 0:37:43 | 0:37:47 | |
So driving further eastwards, thinking of the Mediterranean and seeing what appears to be Austria, | 0:37:54 | 0:38:01 | |
how could this happen? | 0:38:01 | 0:38:02 | |
I didn't envisage this when we were planning this trip and it's so blinking cold. | 0:38:02 | 0:38:07 | |
I'm going to see a friend, Chris Hadlington, | 0:38:07 | 0:38:11 | |
a chef from Plymouth who now owns a house in the Cantabrian mountains. | 0:38:11 | 0:38:15 | |
He's spoken fondly about the village where he now lives and I had warm expectations. | 0:38:15 | 0:38:21 | |
So here we are in the village. | 0:38:21 | 0:38:23 | |
-It's, it's not very picturesque. -It's beautiful, isn't it? | 0:38:23 | 0:38:27 | |
-What? Is very historic I must say. -It's very high up. Nearly a thousand metres up here. | 0:38:27 | 0:38:31 | |
-Really? -Yeah. -God it's cold. -Very cold, especially for May. Yeah. | 0:38:31 | 0:38:35 | |
-So where's this bar, then? -Here is, this is the bar. -Looks like a, a shed. | 0:38:35 | 0:38:38 | |
Well, literally the guy that runs it, it, he owns, he owns the barn and this is a community bar so it's | 0:38:38 | 0:38:45 | |
not licensed, it has no taxes and it's literally run for the people in the village. | 0:38:45 | 0:38:50 | |
-Gosh. -It never closes. | 0:38:50 | 0:38:53 | |
If there's nobody here you just help yourself to a beer and pop the money on the counter. | 0:38:53 | 0:38:58 | |
-My gosh! -Here we go. -This is wonderful. -It's a magic bar. | 0:38:58 | 0:39:02 | |
This is a real boy's bar. | 0:39:02 | 0:39:04 | |
-And here we are, always a nice bowl of, er... -That is it? | 0:39:04 | 0:39:08 | |
Yeah, that's the caldo. | 0:39:08 | 0:39:10 | |
Caldo is literally, er, they'll give you a shot, just to warm you up, | 0:39:10 | 0:39:14 | |
but it's made with the, the bones from, these are beef bones. | 0:39:14 | 0:39:19 | |
And garbanzos which are the chickpeas. | 0:39:19 | 0:39:22 | |
Pimientos, the peppers, carrots, and onions and you drink it | 0:39:22 | 0:39:28 | |
in a little cup or a little glass and they'll just give you the, the clear broth and the stock is just stunning. | 0:39:28 | 0:39:33 | |
-Well, you'll taste it in a minute. -So it's called caldo. | 0:39:33 | 0:39:36 | |
Called caldo, caldo is just stock. | 0:39:36 | 0:39:38 | |
It's the Spanish word for stock, yeah, caldo. | 0:39:38 | 0:39:40 | |
All the time there, it'll warm you up. | 0:39:40 | 0:39:43 | |
Fernando, Fernando looks after the bar. | 0:39:43 | 0:39:45 | |
Very, very nice to meet you, Fernando. | 0:39:45 | 0:39:47 | |
Can we have something to drink? | 0:39:47 | 0:39:48 | |
-I would have thought some... -Dos vinos, por favour. -Vino. | 0:39:48 | 0:39:53 | |
Well, I mean it's unbelievably fabulous. | 0:39:53 | 0:39:55 | |
I had no idea. I just thought it was all going to be neat and tidy. | 0:39:55 | 0:39:58 | |
-No, no. -This is rougher, rougher than I could have imagined. | 0:39:58 | 0:40:01 | |
It reminds me, like in Cornwall, you've got all these like pretty villages full of holiday cottages. | 0:40:01 | 0:40:06 | |
Then there's a few villages left that got these disused cars, | 0:40:06 | 0:40:10 | |
you know, the wheels off on blocks or it's just like this. | 0:40:10 | 0:40:15 | |
This is very much a working village. | 0:40:15 | 0:40:16 | |
This is where the people look after the cattle, look after... | 0:40:16 | 0:40:20 | |
Would you ever get any tourists up here? | 0:40:20 | 0:40:22 | |
-Never see a tourist up here. -I'll bet. | 0:40:22 | 0:40:24 | |
-That's the joy of coming up. -And what about the food then? -Oh, the food in this part of the world. | 0:40:24 | 0:40:28 | |
Well it's, it's you know, living amongst the mountains is fantastic. | 0:40:28 | 0:40:33 | |
They hunt wild boar, they hunt venison. | 0:40:33 | 0:40:35 | |
The rivers are full of fresh brown trout. | 0:40:35 | 0:40:38 | |
In fact my neighbour, last night when I got home, had just fished out two brown trout for my supper. | 0:40:38 | 0:40:43 | |
How fantastic's that, straight out of the river that day. | 0:40:43 | 0:40:46 | |
This sounds like Ernest Hemmingway, sounds like... | 0:40:46 | 0:40:49 | |
-It's great. -So what, what would you eat? | 0:40:49 | 0:40:51 | |
I mean, presumably there's no restaurants around here. | 0:40:51 | 0:40:55 | |
No restaurants up here. Down in the valley you'd get restaurants. | 0:40:55 | 0:40:58 | |
You eat whatever's available. | 0:40:58 | 0:40:59 | |
When I first arrived here you think the food's fantastic | 0:40:59 | 0:41:02 | |
and then you find you go to a restaurant and it's the same food and the same food the next restaurant. | 0:41:02 | 0:41:07 | |
But what you realise is that they only eat a) what's local and b) what's in season. | 0:41:07 | 0:41:13 | |
So in the end you start to become very, very picky. Who cooks the best casido? | 0:41:13 | 0:41:17 | |
And, and how important is food and eating to the locals. | 0:41:17 | 0:41:20 | |
Oh, they, it's, it's, it's a religion. | 0:41:20 | 0:41:22 | |
-It's very important. -It's a religion. | 0:41:22 | 0:41:24 | |
I tell you, these people, whatever happens, it's one o'clock, it's lunch time. | 0:41:24 | 0:41:28 | |
For a snack, Fernando fries fatty, salted belly pork | 0:41:30 | 0:41:33 | |
which goes really well with the wine, and then slices of black pudding. | 0:41:33 | 0:41:38 | |
This was made by Audelina in the next village down the valley. | 0:41:38 | 0:41:43 | |
I know this is not to everyone's taste but it is to mine and it may not be around for much longer. | 0:41:43 | 0:41:51 | |
Aude's just been mixing some rice | 0:41:51 | 0:41:53 | |
which she's boiled and cooled in this lovely terracotta pot and then she's added, er, fat. | 0:41:53 | 0:41:58 | |
Onions fried in fat. | 0:41:58 | 0:42:00 | |
Twice as much onion to the fat. | 0:42:00 | 0:42:02 | |
And I think the onion, the very, very slow cooked onion in the lard | 0:42:02 | 0:42:07 | |
is, apart from the blood which is about to go in, that's what makes really good morcilla. | 0:42:07 | 0:42:12 | |
It's got that slightly sweet taste of onion in it. | 0:42:12 | 0:42:14 | |
Now she's adding, er, sweet paprika, dulce. | 0:42:14 | 0:42:19 | |
That's very good. | 0:42:29 | 0:42:31 | |
So the mixture of rice, onions fried in lard, blood and pimenton | 0:42:33 | 0:42:38 | |
is forced into these casings made from intestines, | 0:42:38 | 0:42:41 | |
and they are gently put into a caldo, similar to what we saw in the bar up the road and poached. | 0:42:41 | 0:42:48 | |
She just said they'll be boiling for 20 minutes just to cook the blood and the blood's like, | 0:42:48 | 0:42:53 | |
it's a bit like egg yolk, really. It just sets the whole sausage. | 0:42:53 | 0:42:56 | |
Aude's said that she learnt how to make, black pudding, morcilla, | 0:43:02 | 0:43:05 | |
when she was, when she's a child but she's been making it for about 40 years, mainly for her family. | 0:43:05 | 0:43:11 | |
She's had seven children, but every time she makes it, she makes a lot of it | 0:43:11 | 0:43:16 | |
and if any of the neighbours want some, she, she'll give it to them. | 0:43:16 | 0:43:19 | |
And she says she's still, if she wants some, some black pudding, she'll still stop and make it. | 0:43:19 | 0:43:24 | |
She said loads of people make black pudding around here because, er, it's what they do. | 0:43:24 | 0:43:30 | |
Make morcilla, but, er, but she said they're all a bit different. | 0:43:30 | 0:43:34 | |
Everybody has their little personal touch, but I bet hers is the best. | 0:43:34 | 0:43:38 | |
I mean just by watching her and talking to her, she puts everything into it. | 0:43:38 | 0:43:42 | |
I'm fascinated. I'm, er writing the recipe, possibly only for my own benefit cos I, | 0:43:44 | 0:43:49 | |
I can't believe you could buy, er, bottles of blood from your local supermarket, but you never know. | 0:43:49 | 0:43:54 | |
If they see this, they may be encouraged to, to start stocking it. | 0:43:54 | 0:43:59 | |
Can just see it on the shelves - fresh blood, pigs. | 0:43:59 | 0:44:03 | |
This is the food I set out to find. | 0:44:03 | 0:44:06 | |
Ordinary people cooking dishes that have been here with them for centuries... | 0:44:06 | 0:44:10 | |
but who knows how long they'll last in this supermarket fuelled world. | 0:44:10 | 0:44:14 | |
Oh, gracias. | 0:44:14 | 0:44:17 | |
That's really lovely and what I love about it is the rice. | 0:44:18 | 0:44:21 | |
It's just gives it plenty of body. You would have no idea there is blood in here | 0:44:21 | 0:44:25 | |
and people get squeamish about black puddings, but it's just there | 0:44:25 | 0:44:29 | |
to bind it together and the lasting flavour | 0:44:29 | 0:44:31 | |
is the sweetness of the onions and that, er, and the chilli heat from the pimentons. | 0:44:31 | 0:44:37 | |
It's really good. | 0:44:37 | 0:44:40 | |
After watching that, I needed to cook and campers are | 0:44:40 | 0:44:43 | |
brilliant things if you get the urge to create something you fancy. | 0:44:43 | 0:44:48 | |
I'm going to cook tortas con heuvos he . | 0:44:48 | 0:44:52 | |
Basically, that's corn pancakes, eggs and fried meat from chorizo sausage trimmings. | 0:44:52 | 0:44:59 | |
But first to make the pancakes or tortas. | 0:44:59 | 0:45:02 | |
Using maize flour, salt and water. | 0:45:02 | 0:45:04 | |
Mix it all into a stiff paste like a pastry and set it aside. | 0:45:04 | 0:45:09 | |
Now for the Eheas. | 0:45:09 | 0:45:11 | |
I quite often pick up dishes when I'm after something else. | 0:45:11 | 0:45:15 | |
Er, we were at this restaurant called Casa Poli | 0:45:15 | 0:45:17 | |
filming hake cooked in Asturian cider, very nice it was too. | 0:45:17 | 0:45:22 | |
But after I'd finished watching it being cooked and tasting it, they invited me to sit down | 0:45:22 | 0:45:26 | |
and have lunch, and I just chose this really simple thing cos I was not really very hungry after eating | 0:45:26 | 0:45:31 | |
all that hake so I, I bought some chorizo sausage, this and bought some corn and am making it all up. | 0:45:31 | 0:45:38 | |
I've got everything in the camper except a rolling pin so I'm going to have to beat the living daylights | 0:45:38 | 0:45:44 | |
out of this between two tea towels. | 0:45:44 | 0:45:46 | |
While I was having lunch, I was talking to the girl that, our translator, | 0:45:46 | 0:45:50 | |
and I said I'd really like this for breakfast. | 0:45:50 | 0:45:53 | |
She said, "Oh, no, no, not for breakfast." | 0:45:53 | 0:45:56 | |
You know we only have coffee and a, and, and a piece of bread or something like that, but being | 0:45:56 | 0:46:00 | |
British, also actually being rather a fan of the Mexican dish, Uvas Rancheros, which is quite similar, | 0:46:00 | 0:46:07 | |
I really like something, I would really like something like this for breakfast. | 0:46:07 | 0:46:11 | |
In height of summer back in Cornwall, I'd get shouted at | 0:46:12 | 0:46:16 | |
and told to get back into a camp site where I belong... but not here. | 0:46:16 | 0:46:20 | |
Er, it's just so nice sitting here in, er, Campy, | 0:46:20 | 0:46:23 | |
er, with a lovely sunny day out there and doing a bit of cooking. It's very, very peaceful. | 0:46:23 | 0:46:30 | |
Mind you, I don't want you to think I'm camping all the time. | 0:46:30 | 0:46:33 | |
I'm not like doing a sort of Ray Mears, you know, living it rough. | 0:46:33 | 0:46:37 | |
It's just occasionally, I like a bit of a, a bit of a cook. | 0:46:37 | 0:46:42 | |
The tortas are done. | 0:46:42 | 0:46:44 | |
I'll dry them off in a kitchen roll and start to fry the eggs. | 0:46:44 | 0:46:49 | |
I know the Spanish wouldn't agree but I think this would make a great breakfast at home once in a while. | 0:46:49 | 0:46:54 | |
A change from bacon and eggs. | 0:46:54 | 0:46:57 | |
One of the things I'm quickly finding out is that cooking | 0:46:57 | 0:47:00 | |
in a landscape in a camper one gives one a serious appetite. | 0:47:00 | 0:47:05 | |
As soon as I smelt the chorizo cooking, I couldn't wait. | 0:47:05 | 0:47:10 | |
Well, it's absolutely delicious. | 0:47:12 | 0:47:14 | |
Er, I know I say it myself, I'm quite pleased with my, er, corn pancakes. | 0:47:14 | 0:47:19 | |
They're really, really quite good. | 0:47:19 | 0:47:21 | |
I mean they're a little bit heavier than I remember them in the restaurant but they're very tasty, | 0:47:21 | 0:47:26 | |
and delicious, just tastes, tastes like chorizo and of course the eggs are so good. | 0:47:26 | 0:47:32 | |
I don't know, you never seem to get a bad egg in Spain. | 0:47:32 | 0:47:37 | |
You don't get bad bread either, wherever you go. | 0:47:38 | 0:47:41 | |
Even the Romans, who cared about what they ate, noticed how good the bread was here. | 0:47:41 | 0:47:45 | |
This is a little bakery in Orzales in Cantabria. | 0:47:45 | 0:47:49 | |
I think bread in Spain is an understated marvel. | 0:47:49 | 0:47:53 | |
I can't recall ever being disappointed. | 0:47:53 | 0:47:56 | |
It's rough and unrefined and full of wheaty flavour. | 0:47:56 | 0:47:59 | |
To me it epitomises the straight forwardness of Spain. | 0:47:59 | 0:48:05 | |
It's not the stuff of trendy boutique bakeries. | 0:48:05 | 0:48:08 | |
It is what it is and always will be. | 0:48:08 | 0:48:12 | |
Well, I've noticed loads of signs here in Cantabria and in Asturias for artisan bakers. | 0:48:12 | 0:48:17 | |
You can't get more artisan than this. | 0:48:17 | 0:48:20 | |
Everything obviously is, is done by hand but I sincerely believe it's not gonna change. | 0:48:20 | 0:48:26 | |
These sort of places will not die out. | 0:48:26 | 0:48:28 | |
Certainly not around here, because everybody believes in their bread. | 0:48:28 | 0:48:32 | |
So we won't be seeing any of those sort, supermarket bakeries with sort of dough with accelerators and | 0:48:32 | 0:48:39 | |
decelerators to make it all speed up and slow down when we want it. It's all gonna be like this, natural. | 0:48:39 | 0:48:45 | |
Just noticing what they're doing with their hands here. | 0:48:45 | 0:48:48 | |
They're first of all making a, a dent in the middle. That's to show that it's this bakery. | 0:48:48 | 0:48:53 | |
A little squiggle with a knife. | 0:48:53 | 0:48:55 | |
That's just to stop the bread rising too much. | 0:48:55 | 0:48:58 | |
They also make empanadas here filled with bacon and chorizo, and it's fashioned very much like a pasty. | 0:49:01 | 0:49:07 | |
I wouldn't mind betting, although I suspect my Cornish friends would be | 0:49:09 | 0:49:14 | |
harrumphing at this, that the Cornish pasty | 0:49:14 | 0:49:16 | |
is somehow linked to the empanada and as I said in Santiago, that goes right back to the days of the Moors. | 0:49:16 | 0:49:24 | |
In fact they had similar looking pastries filled with chickpeas. | 0:49:24 | 0:49:28 | |
I guess from my amateur baking days, er, they're knocking the bread just to see if it's cooked or not. | 0:49:31 | 0:49:37 | |
If it gives a nice hollow sound then it's cooked. | 0:49:37 | 0:49:40 | |
Just been fascinated watching the whole process. | 0:49:40 | 0:49:42 | |
I mean, they, they're craftsmen. | 0:49:42 | 0:49:45 | |
I mean... I just love watching people do things that they've been doing | 0:49:45 | 0:49:50 | |
all their lives and doing so well without even thinking about it. | 0:49:50 | 0:49:53 | |
Just thinking about that expression, bread is the staff of live. | 0:49:53 | 0:49:56 | |
It's almost like, bread is the sort of centre of our existence and | 0:49:56 | 0:50:01 | |
when you think about bakers, bakers like this, what's a job worth? | 0:50:01 | 0:50:06 | |
What's a job worth, what's a banker worth, what's a, what am I worth, as a cook or maybe as a TV celeb? | 0:50:06 | 0:50:13 | |
One thing that is certain to me, is that these, these guys are worth something. | 0:50:13 | 0:50:17 | |
All the people that buy this bread in the villages and the towns all around here | 0:50:17 | 0:50:21 | |
really, really like their bread and I just imagine what it, it would be like if this bakery wasn't here. | 0:50:21 | 0:50:28 | |
They, they'd be the worst for it, they'd be the sadder for it | 0:50:28 | 0:50:32 | |
and that, that... It means something to people around here. | 0:50:32 | 0:50:35 | |
So to the Basque country and this is the Basque's beloved Don Estia or San Sebastian. | 0:50:46 | 0:50:53 | |
One food writer said that the Basques are famous for their appetites. | 0:50:53 | 0:50:58 | |
They'll eat three times the amount of the average Andalucian. | 0:50:58 | 0:51:02 | |
Even their tapas are heartier than the southern equivalent. | 0:51:02 | 0:51:06 | |
Here they call it pinchos, and at lunchtime the whole town goes crazy for it. | 0:51:08 | 0:51:13 | |
Pinchos refers to the cocktails stick or pincho that holds | 0:51:13 | 0:51:18 | |
the various elements together. This one's called a gilda. | 0:51:18 | 0:51:22 | |
It's curvaceous and hot, named after a character played by Rita Hayworth in a Hollywood film of the '40s. | 0:51:22 | 0:51:30 | |
The whole idea of pinchos or tapas for that matter is that you | 0:51:30 | 0:51:34 | |
go from one bar to another, each will have its own speciality. | 0:51:34 | 0:51:39 | |
The Basques are extremely convivial people and will think nothing about giving four or five bars a go. | 0:51:39 | 0:51:46 | |
I mean just look at this variety here. | 0:51:46 | 0:51:49 | |
I mean you just come in here and you think oh, what am I gonna have, you know, you're spoilt for choice. | 0:51:49 | 0:51:54 | |
And over here we've got green peppers with octopus, onion and olive oil. | 0:51:54 | 0:51:59 | |
Here we've got anchovies with garlic, parsley and olive oil. | 0:51:59 | 0:52:04 | |
Here we've got some anchovy fritters. | 0:52:04 | 0:52:06 | |
Here we've got a Spanish tortilla. Love that. Ordered one myself. | 0:52:06 | 0:52:09 | |
Another tortilla with anchovies in it. | 0:52:09 | 0:52:11 | |
Of course some fried hake and here, some fried peppers from Guernica which is their speciality. | 0:52:11 | 0:52:18 | |
They take it really seriously. | 0:52:18 | 0:52:20 | |
There's about just under 200 pinchos bars in, in San Sebastian, but some of the top ones compete every year | 0:52:20 | 0:52:28 | |
to do the best possible pinchos and they've just won it with that dish at the end there, the Pincher, | 0:52:28 | 0:52:34 | |
which is a horn of pastry filled with cream cheese and anchovy. | 0:52:34 | 0:52:38 | |
Very nice. | 0:52:40 | 0:52:41 | |
Very nice. | 0:52:41 | 0:52:44 | |
It's really quite civilised. | 0:52:44 | 0:52:45 | |
At weekends the Spanish will often have a family lunch and come to a tapas bar | 0:52:45 | 0:52:51 | |
before going on to lunch and just have a couple of tapas, not five or six. | 0:52:51 | 0:52:56 | |
I like that idea because I love my food and the thought | 0:52:56 | 0:52:59 | |
of just coming to have a couple of spicy little things like that before lunch | 0:52:59 | 0:53:03 | |
would be really, really acceptable to me. | 0:53:03 | 0:53:06 | |
Find it a bit hard to start lunch at 2.30pm, 3pm but I could get used to it. | 0:53:06 | 0:53:12 | |
If I was making a documentary about fishing, I'd have to include this place. | 0:53:12 | 0:53:18 | |
It's said that the Basques discovered the shores of American before Columbus. | 0:53:18 | 0:53:23 | |
They sailed to where they knew there were plentiful shelves of cod, off New Foundland on the Grand Banks, | 0:53:23 | 0:53:29 | |
but they didn't tell anybody. | 0:53:29 | 0:53:31 | |
Canny people the Basques. | 0:53:31 | 0:53:34 | |
I'm a great fan of San Sebastian. | 0:53:34 | 0:53:36 | |
It's just a very elegant city right on the sea. It's quite special. | 0:53:36 | 0:53:40 | |
Couldn't resist just coming down near the quay for a few sardines but actually I'm here | 0:53:40 | 0:53:44 | |
to go to one of the Gastronomic Societies. | 0:53:44 | 0:53:47 | |
Now the Gastronomic Societies, most of them founded about a hundred years ago and they started | 0:53:47 | 0:53:53 | |
with a group of fisherman wanting to go out | 0:53:53 | 0:53:55 | |
and cook food amongst themselves and, and drink quite a lot | 0:53:55 | 0:53:58 | |
and apparently it was very much encouraged by their wives. | 0:53:58 | 0:54:03 | |
You could imagine they'd been out at sea for three or four days, come back and were loafing around at home | 0:54:03 | 0:54:08 | |
and the wives would be going, "Get out there, get out there with all your mates. Leave us alone." | 0:54:08 | 0:54:13 | |
Of course they'd then go out with all their mates, drink too much, | 0:54:13 | 0:54:16 | |
come home and fall straight to sleep. | 0:54:16 | 0:54:18 | |
Which was also well liked by the wives, if you catch my drift. | 0:54:18 | 0:54:23 | |
SINGS TRADITIONAL SONG | 0:54:29 | 0:54:31 | |
Nowadays there's not so many fishermen, | 0:54:38 | 0:54:40 | |
but they're still passionate about cooking and singing, and while we're at it, drinking. | 0:54:40 | 0:54:46 | |
Paco, the only one that could speak English explains. | 0:54:46 | 0:54:50 | |
-In San Sebastian there are more than a hundred clubs like this. -What sort of food do you cook? | 0:54:50 | 0:54:54 | |
-Traditional Basque food or...? -Yes. -Experimental? | 0:54:54 | 0:55:00 | |
No, no, not experimental because we are not, we are not, er, professional. | 0:55:00 | 0:55:04 | |
This is, er, our restaurants, eh? | 0:55:04 | 0:55:07 | |
No, no, no this is, er, nice food, er, like at home more or less. | 0:55:07 | 0:55:13 | |
Like at home. We have fish, of course, | 0:55:13 | 0:55:17 | |
because we are in San Sebastian but also meat | 0:55:17 | 0:55:21 | |
or eggs or, er, vegetables, everything. | 0:55:21 | 0:55:26 | |
Most men in kitchens, women say, make too much mess. | 0:55:26 | 0:55:29 | |
Yes, in here, too. In San Sebastian, too. | 0:55:29 | 0:55:32 | |
That's the reason that they, er, they don't cook a lot at home. | 0:55:32 | 0:55:36 | |
They're very enthusiastic these guys, er, so they wanted me to put some pass on. | 0:55:44 | 0:55:48 | |
Yeah, you're right, yeah, it makes it look better. OK, thank you. | 0:55:48 | 0:55:52 | |
But what these are, are, er, cod or hake throats... | 0:55:54 | 0:55:58 | |
this bit... | 0:55:58 | 0:55:59 | |
and apparently years ago when fishermen were very poor, | 0:55:59 | 0:56:03 | |
it was the only bit they could take off the fish to eat themselves, | 0:56:03 | 0:56:07 | |
because you took the throat out, you can't see when you look at the whole fish in the market, | 0:56:07 | 0:56:11 | |
nobody would have noticed and they'd eat, they'd eat the throats. | 0:56:11 | 0:56:16 | |
Now, I love this. | 0:56:16 | 0:56:17 | |
It's, it's a bit like so many sort of peasant foods suddenly becomes really expensive. | 0:56:17 | 0:56:23 | |
They are really expensive. A kilo of these throats are now 60 or 70 Euros. | 0:56:23 | 0:56:29 | |
Just thinking with them bursting into spontaneous song like this, | 0:56:34 | 0:56:37 | |
actually they're a bit like the Welsh. | 0:56:37 | 0:56:39 | |
I mean if you said to a Welshman you know, where do you come from? | 0:56:39 | 0:56:43 | |
They'd, no way would they say from Britain. | 0:56:43 | 0:56:46 | |
They'd say from Wales and it's the same with the Basques. | 0:56:46 | 0:56:48 | |
Also, similarly, they've got a pretty serious rugby club here in San Sebastian as well. | 0:56:48 | 0:56:55 | |
These hake throats are called cocochas and if you're ever in these parts, make sure you try them. | 0:56:58 | 0:57:04 | |
They're really silky because they've been cooked really slowly and they're sweet, too. | 0:57:04 | 0:57:09 | |
Well, you know, manna and all that, | 0:57:09 | 0:57:12 | |
I mean we arrived here at eleven o'clock, er, to start cooking. | 0:57:12 | 0:57:16 | |
It's now, er, four o'clock and we're only on the third course. | 0:57:16 | 0:57:22 | |
Er, it's been a delight, I mean you know, they, they know what life's all about to be honest. | 0:57:22 | 0:57:28 | |
I'm really enjoying it. | 0:57:28 | 0:57:31 | |
These fritters are made from hake which the Basques call "legatza" | 0:57:31 | 0:57:36 | |
but I suspect that although the food's important here, it's the singing that comes first. | 0:57:36 | 0:57:40 | |
They're singing a song that only has one word, "hambre", and that not surprisingly means hungry. | 0:57:45 | 0:57:51 | |
Next time its Rioja, Navarra and the blue shores of the Mediterranean. | 0:58:23 | 0:58:28 | |
Can't wait. | 0:58:28 | 0:58:30 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd | 0:58:36 | 0:58:39 | |
Email: [email protected] | 0:58:39 | 0:58:42 |