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Laurie Lee's As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning | 0:00:04 | 0:00:07 | |
is the sort of book that makes you want to leave immediately for Spain. | 0:00:07 | 0:00:11 | |
He says, "Between cities, take a bus to the cut-off country - | 0:00:13 | 0:00:18 | |
"there will only be small inns to stay at, | 0:00:18 | 0:00:21 | |
"but you will be rewarded by a landscape pure as the sea, | 0:00:21 | 0:00:24 | |
"ancient and wind-ravaged and bare, | 0:00:24 | 0:00:27 | |
"where storks and vultures circle majestic skies above herds of black fighting bulls. | 0:00:27 | 0:00:33 | |
"Show that you're in no hurry, that you're ready to let things happen, | 0:00:34 | 0:00:39 | |
"and the human encounter which is Spain will follow." | 0:00:39 | 0:00:43 | |
I'm continuing my journey from the rocky coast of Galicia towards Cantabria in the Basque country. | 0:01:16 | 0:01:22 | |
I'm getting quite fond of this old camper van, actually. It's sort of, erm, | 0:01:24 | 0:01:29 | |
it goes along at quite a steady pace, it's not exactly speedy, but | 0:01:29 | 0:01:33 | |
you can sort of think about things on these long motorways in Spain. | 0:01:33 | 0:01:39 | |
And on the subject of motorways, it seems there's a dual carriageway linking every shepherd's hut, | 0:01:41 | 0:01:47 | |
no matter how remote - there's so much of it. | 0:01:47 | 0:01:50 | |
But I'm hoping to glimpse the Spain I knew as a child on holiday | 0:01:50 | 0:01:54 | |
by the Bay of Biscay nearly half a century ago. | 0:01:54 | 0:01:58 | |
I'm a bit puzzled. I first came here when I was eight years old, to Laredo, and I've got really strong | 0:02:01 | 0:02:06 | |
memories of the hotel we stayed at, called the Hotel Carlos V. | 0:02:06 | 0:02:11 | |
And I'm told it's around here somewhere, but I've been asking people | 0:02:11 | 0:02:14 | |
and they said, no, no it's been demolished, it's just a campsite round here. | 0:02:14 | 0:02:19 | |
But it means a lot to me, because it's probably my earliest sort of gourmet memories - | 0:02:19 | 0:02:25 | |
I was eight at the time, and we drove over from England in my dad's blue Jaguar Mark VII. | 0:02:25 | 0:02:33 | |
And I can distinctly remember really liking squid cooked in its own ink with garlic and tomato. | 0:02:33 | 0:02:40 | |
I liked it and I remember Coke, having it for the first time | 0:02:40 | 0:02:44 | |
in green bottles - me and my sister just loved those heavy green bottles | 0:02:44 | 0:02:49 | |
that it came in in those days. | 0:02:49 | 0:02:51 | |
I suppose for me, it's a bit like my A La Recherche Du Temps Perdu. | 0:02:51 | 0:02:56 | |
The director won't like this, but what it means is looking, | 0:02:56 | 0:02:59 | |
going back to your childhood, to those really nostalgic memories. | 0:02:59 | 0:03:03 | |
My parents brought me here to the Port of Colindres. | 0:03:08 | 0:03:11 | |
This coast, stretching right up into the Basque country, is world famous for anchovies. | 0:03:11 | 0:03:16 | |
They're supposed to be the best in the world, because the cold water | 0:03:16 | 0:03:20 | |
of the Cantabrian sea produces firm-fleshed fish, and that's the secret of good anchovies. | 0:03:20 | 0:03:27 | |
They need to keep that firmness before they enter the canning factories. | 0:03:27 | 0:03:31 | |
Look at these silver darlings, they're salted minutes from landing, | 0:03:31 | 0:03:36 | |
left for five to six hours, washed and packed into barrels to cure for about a year. | 0:03:36 | 0:03:42 | |
And it's only after that that they're washed again, filleted and put into those lovely ornate tins. | 0:03:42 | 0:03:49 | |
I've often found the difference between a sardine and an anchovy | 0:03:49 | 0:03:53 | |
really hard to tell, but when they're as fresh as this, it's easy. | 0:03:53 | 0:03:57 | |
If you look at the sardine, it's got a sort of greeny, yellowy tinge to it, | 0:03:57 | 0:04:01 | |
looks sort of more like a mackerel, I suppose. | 0:04:01 | 0:04:04 | |
But then when you look at an anchovy, it's beautiful. | 0:04:04 | 0:04:07 | |
It's got this lovely deep blue tinge to it and it's really, really sleek. | 0:04:07 | 0:04:12 | |
Interestingly, they were telling me, when you get lots of sardines in | 0:04:12 | 0:04:16 | |
with the anchovies, the price goes right down, because it's the anchovy that's the prized fish. | 0:04:16 | 0:04:21 | |
I must confess, I rather naively thought that little tins of anchovies were filled by a machine. | 0:04:24 | 0:04:29 | |
You know, a long conveyor belt and a great vat of olive oil going bloop, bloop, bloop at the end. | 0:04:29 | 0:04:35 | |
No idea they were done by hand! | 0:04:35 | 0:04:38 | |
But when you look at how wonderfully laid out all the anchovies are, | 0:04:38 | 0:04:41 | |
look at all the skill here. Just the way they're snipping and cutting and layering it, it's fabulous. | 0:04:41 | 0:04:49 | |
And of course, I was just talking to somebody the other day about anchovies, | 0:04:49 | 0:04:53 | |
a Spanish guy, and he was saying that anchovies are like the ham of the sea, like an Iberico ham, | 0:04:53 | 0:04:58 | |
and they're that order of quality, really. | 0:04:58 | 0:05:01 | |
I mean, he was suggesting that anchovies like this are on a par | 0:05:01 | 0:05:06 | |
with things like Iberico ham, truffles, caviar, that sort of thing, and I totally agree with him. | 0:05:06 | 0:05:13 | |
Now they're covered with olive oil - a mild one, because you want to taste the fish. | 0:05:13 | 0:05:19 | |
These are far too good for pizzas, best in a salade Nicoise or a tapas with olives and peppers, | 0:05:19 | 0:05:24 | |
or best of all, eaten just as they are with bread and a cold glass of wine. | 0:05:24 | 0:05:30 | |
So here's to anchovies, and the ladies who pack them so beautifully. | 0:05:30 | 0:05:35 | |
This remote villa in the olive groves of Andalucia is where I cook all my dishes on this journey. | 0:05:39 | 0:05:45 | |
And here I'm going to prepare a lovely, simple anchovy salad. | 0:05:45 | 0:05:48 | |
And for that, I need to start with freshly made croutons and a very good olive oil. | 0:05:48 | 0:05:54 | |
The sort of little things I notice when I'm travelling through another country, | 0:05:57 | 0:06:00 | |
their croutons are a bit bigger than ours. | 0:06:00 | 0:06:03 | |
This dish I really dreamt up myself using, obviously, a lot of local ingredients. | 0:06:03 | 0:06:08 | |
Garlic, of course, olive oil, of course, | 0:06:08 | 0:06:11 | |
nice croutons - but it's all about the anchovies. | 0:06:11 | 0:06:14 | |
And actually, what I really like is just getting a tin and taking one out, because they're so sweet. | 0:06:14 | 0:06:19 | |
They've got this lovely sort of residual sweetness when they're as good as that. | 0:06:19 | 0:06:23 | |
But I think this salad really does show them off at their very, very best. | 0:06:23 | 0:06:28 | |
I can't think of anything better than this in the summer - | 0:06:29 | 0:06:32 | |
eaten outside on a warm sunny day, no fuss. The dressing's important and it's as easy as can be. | 0:06:32 | 0:06:39 | |
Two egg yolks, whisked, and then garlic. | 0:06:39 | 0:06:43 | |
I chop it up pretty coarsely at first and then | 0:06:43 | 0:06:46 | |
crush it ever so slightly with a sea salt to bring out the oils. | 0:06:46 | 0:06:50 | |
The flavour of garlic is the taste of Spain as far as I'm concerned. | 0:06:50 | 0:06:54 | |
It was once considered to be only for the poor. | 0:06:54 | 0:06:56 | |
I still remember my parents saying Spanish food was too greasy, and there was far too much garlic. | 0:06:56 | 0:07:03 | |
Now mustard - half a teaspoon of Dijon - and a tad more salt, and the juice from half a lemon. | 0:07:03 | 0:07:09 | |
Then you're ready for the olive oil. | 0:07:09 | 0:07:11 | |
This dressing stands out with the best of them - it's a mayonnaise really, | 0:07:11 | 0:07:16 | |
but the lemon and garlic makes it even better. | 0:07:16 | 0:07:18 | |
Before I got to that factory in Laredo in Cantabria, I was just thinking, well, | 0:07:18 | 0:07:23 | |
it's bound to be done by a machine, all that filleting of the anchovies, | 0:07:23 | 0:07:26 | |
so it came as a tremendous, good surprise | 0:07:26 | 0:07:29 | |
to see all those ladies sitting on their high stools filleting anchovies by hand, | 0:07:29 | 0:07:34 | |
and sort of popping them to bed in a tin of olive oil. | 0:07:34 | 0:07:37 | |
And they were so much enjoying what they were doing. | 0:07:37 | 0:07:40 | |
Do you know, I think it adds to a tin of anchovies when you know that it's done by hand. | 0:07:40 | 0:07:45 | |
This would probably be my favourite salad of all time - well, certainly today, anyway! | 0:07:46 | 0:07:50 | |
I'm making this for four, but could easily eat the lot myself. It's just a nice balance here. | 0:07:50 | 0:07:57 | |
You have the soft creaminess of the eggs, the sweet saltiness of the anchovies, | 0:07:57 | 0:08:02 | |
the crispness of the lettuce, the warm crunch of the croutons and that luxury touch, | 0:08:02 | 0:08:07 | |
that sauce or mayonnaise that transports you into a restaurant lapping the shores of the Med. | 0:08:07 | 0:08:13 | |
And then, of course, there's the wine. | 0:08:13 | 0:08:15 | |
What better than a cold, very cold Albarino? | 0:08:15 | 0:08:19 | |
Just as I anticipated - sweet, beautiful. | 0:08:23 | 0:08:28 | |
Do you know, I make friends with people that share enthusiasms for food with me, | 0:08:28 | 0:08:34 | |
and I make best friends with people that like chorizo sausages, | 0:08:34 | 0:08:38 | |
Iberico ham and Cantabrian anchovies. | 0:08:38 | 0:08:42 | |
Well, that might have been a summer treat, but when Professor Higgins said the rain in Spain | 0:08:45 | 0:08:50 | |
falls mainly on the plain, he was telling a bit of a fib. | 0:08:50 | 0:08:53 | |
It rains a lot in the Basque country, too. | 0:08:53 | 0:08:56 | |
It's a bit like Catalunya - you've got the sea on one side and the mountains on the other. | 0:08:56 | 0:09:01 | |
It's very lush, as you can see. | 0:09:01 | 0:09:03 | |
Unfortunately, it's also very rainy, which is rather a shame, | 0:09:03 | 0:09:07 | |
because the Basque country, particularly up here just going up into the mountains, | 0:09:07 | 0:09:12 | |
it's incredibly attractive. | 0:09:12 | 0:09:14 | |
Got lovely limestone peaks and they're really jagged. | 0:09:14 | 0:09:19 | |
So I'm really disappointed that you can't see them in the mist. | 0:09:19 | 0:09:22 | |
But I'm on my way to a restaurant which was recommended | 0:09:22 | 0:09:26 | |
to me by a very well known Australian chef called Neil Perry. | 0:09:26 | 0:09:31 | |
The thing I like about it, the sound of it, is that everything | 0:09:31 | 0:09:34 | |
that the chef there, Victor, cooks is cooked over homemade charcoal. | 0:09:34 | 0:09:41 | |
And apparently it's all to do with his background in the region, in the mountains here. | 0:09:41 | 0:09:46 | |
He's just very familiar with cooking in this way right back to his childhood. | 0:09:46 | 0:09:51 | |
So as a bit of a fan of barbecue cooking anyway, I'm utterly looking forward to it. | 0:09:51 | 0:09:58 | |
Victor - that's him in the black T-shirt - and his chef Lennox | 0:09:58 | 0:10:02 | |
run what's been described as the world's best barbecue joint. | 0:10:02 | 0:10:06 | |
Victor designed and built these grills that can be lifted or lowered | 0:10:06 | 0:10:11 | |
to control the cooking speed - and anyone who has a barbecue will know what a bonus that would be. | 0:10:11 | 0:10:17 | |
Lennox, would you ask Victor why he cooks in this way? | 0:10:17 | 0:10:21 | |
Sure. | 0:10:21 | 0:10:23 | |
HE SPEAKS SPANISH | 0:10:23 | 0:10:25 | |
He's saying, "Opening this restaurant was a very emotional journey. | 0:10:29 | 0:10:33 | |
"As a child brought up in a house without gas or electricity, | 0:10:33 | 0:10:37 | |
"all the cooking was done over a fire, a wood fire." | 0:10:37 | 0:10:40 | |
So his earliest memories of food were always influenced by the flavours | 0:10:40 | 0:10:44 | |
of smoke from the charcoal - and the food never tasted better. | 0:10:44 | 0:10:49 | |
And now, 40 years on, he works to recapture those flavours from his youth. | 0:10:49 | 0:10:54 | |
Even as a young adult, he worked as a forester in the hillside | 0:10:54 | 0:10:57 | |
and would cook just like his grandmother did, out on an open fire in the woods. | 0:10:57 | 0:11:03 | |
He said it's the most natural and the best way to cook. | 0:11:03 | 0:11:06 | |
HE SPEAKS SPANISH | 0:11:06 | 0:11:10 | |
-So basically, it is an emotional journey for him. -Very much so. | 0:11:10 | 0:11:14 | |
That's really interesting, because I'm a cook, too, | 0:11:14 | 0:11:17 | |
and the funny thing is that I do feel, from listening to that, | 0:11:17 | 0:11:21 | |
I suddenly realised all I try to do is go back to my childhood | 0:11:21 | 0:11:25 | |
and re-create those flavours of when I was little. | 0:11:25 | 0:11:28 | |
That's all I do, and so I'm totally sympatico with what he's saying. | 0:11:28 | 0:11:32 | |
These prawns are special. I mean, look at that. | 0:11:32 | 0:11:36 | |
-So these are the gambas de Palamos... -Could I? -By all means. | 0:11:36 | 0:11:38 | |
I feel diffident about... | 0:11:38 | 0:11:40 | |
I'm just going to be very Spanish and just... | 0:11:40 | 0:11:44 | |
Oh, my god! Oh, my gosh! | 0:11:46 | 0:11:49 | |
They are just... | 0:11:49 | 0:11:51 | |
Oh, I'm sorry. | 0:11:54 | 0:11:56 | |
Ask any chef in Spain where the tastiest prawns come from, | 0:11:56 | 0:12:00 | |
and they'll say Palamos, a fishing port on the Mediterranean in Catalonia - they're quite amazing. | 0:12:00 | 0:12:05 | |
Just gently warm, just warm the mouth with the succulent flavours of... | 0:12:05 | 0:12:09 | |
I'm sorry, I'm having a difficult moment, I can't talk any more. It's just so, so wonderful. | 0:12:09 | 0:12:16 | |
I know this steak is going to be great, too. | 0:12:16 | 0:12:18 | |
Victor said it actually came from a dairy cow about 12 years old, | 0:12:18 | 0:12:23 | |
not a young prime three-year-old steer. | 0:12:23 | 0:12:25 | |
Again he said when he was growing up, this was what they used to eat | 0:12:25 | 0:12:29 | |
for a special treat, and he doesn't want to change that. | 0:12:29 | 0:12:32 | |
Well, I can't wait to try this, having watched Victor cook it. | 0:12:32 | 0:12:36 | |
This is just central to any meat lover's love. | 0:12:36 | 0:12:40 | |
Just as the quayside in Padstow is the inspiration for my cooking, | 0:12:48 | 0:12:52 | |
Victor's came from these mountains and wooded valleys. | 0:12:52 | 0:12:56 | |
It's pretty rare these days to re-create | 0:12:56 | 0:12:59 | |
the cooking and flavours from your youth and get people | 0:12:59 | 0:13:02 | |
banging at your door from all over the world wanting to try it. | 0:13:02 | 0:13:06 | |
And while on the subject of youth, one of the most popular desserts by far | 0:13:06 | 0:13:11 | |
here in the Basque country is the famous Mamia - a junket made from sheep's milk. | 0:13:11 | 0:13:16 | |
It's sold everywhere and it's truly loved by the Basques. | 0:13:16 | 0:13:21 | |
Amelia, the farmer's wife, has made it all her life, | 0:13:22 | 0:13:26 | |
just like most people who live in this mountainous region. | 0:13:26 | 0:13:29 | |
All it is is warm milk set by a rennet, which also comes from the sheep. | 0:13:29 | 0:13:33 | |
Well, I've just watched Amelia make the junket - it's so rural. | 0:13:35 | 0:13:39 | |
Everybody used to make junket when I was little, but I can't actually remember what it tastes like. | 0:13:39 | 0:13:45 | |
It's lovely. I was thinking, actually, one of those things | 0:13:47 | 0:13:51 | |
when I was at school, the three things that were always a bit of a problem for us - | 0:13:51 | 0:13:56 | |
this was when I was very tiny - was sago, tapioca and junket. But I can't see why. | 0:13:56 | 0:14:02 | |
SHE SPEAKS BASQUE | 0:14:04 | 0:14:07 | |
Nourishing stuff, junket. | 0:14:07 | 0:14:09 | |
The Spanish use of milk in sweets or puddings isn't so very far removed | 0:14:09 | 0:14:13 | |
from our own, and it isn't only sheep's milk, either. | 0:14:13 | 0:14:18 | |
Well, this is called leche frita, which literally means fried milk. | 0:14:18 | 0:14:21 | |
I remember before I got to the Basque country thinking, how do you fry milk? | 0:14:21 | 0:14:25 | |
Do you drop it into a fryer, does it come out in some sort of like long shreds or something? | 0:14:25 | 0:14:30 | |
No. What it actually means is, they make a sort of batter, and chill it, and then cut | 0:14:30 | 0:14:35 | |
the batter up into various shapes and then deep fry it in bread crumbs. | 0:14:35 | 0:14:39 | |
The warm milk flavoured with lemon zest and vanilla | 0:14:40 | 0:14:44 | |
is poured onto egg yolks, sugar and flour and whisked together and returned to the heat to cook out. | 0:14:44 | 0:14:51 | |
Eventually, with a degree of patience and gentle stirring, it forms a very thick custard. | 0:14:51 | 0:14:58 | |
I don't do enough puds. There's something really comforting about making puds. | 0:14:58 | 0:15:04 | |
In Spain, the three you'll normally find in restaurants is crema Catalana - | 0:15:04 | 0:15:08 | |
of course that's a sort of creme brulee Catalan-style - rice pudding and flan. | 0:15:08 | 0:15:14 | |
When it's nearly solid, spread it into a dish lined with clingfilm, | 0:15:16 | 0:15:21 | |
so that it forms a wobbly cake, and cool it. | 0:15:21 | 0:15:24 | |
So that's been in the fridge for about two or three hours and it | 0:15:24 | 0:15:29 | |
comes out in this rather satisfying slab of, well, cold custard, really. | 0:15:29 | 0:15:35 | |
To make the fritters, cut them up into bite-sized triangles and coat them in flour and then | 0:15:35 | 0:15:42 | |
dip them in beaten eggs so that the chunky bread crumbs will form a very satisfying, crunchy coating. | 0:15:42 | 0:15:48 | |
When the people over here talk about leche frita, fried milk, you can almost hear a lump in their throats, | 0:15:48 | 0:15:56 | |
for indeed it's the stuff of Spanish childhood memories. | 0:15:56 | 0:15:59 | |
The hard, sweet, crunchy outside and the cool, creamy interior is just a great combination. | 0:15:59 | 0:16:07 | |
I'm hungry for the sun. | 0:16:13 | 0:16:15 | |
I've been travelling for nearly two weeks and it has rained virtually every day. | 0:16:15 | 0:16:21 | |
But I'm driving ever eastwards, almost feeling the magnetic pull of the Med. | 0:16:25 | 0:16:29 | |
This is Rioja - a name I find comforting because I've drunk quite a lot of it in my time. | 0:16:31 | 0:16:38 | |
My first stop is Santo Domingo de la Calzada, a place that has a unique story to tell. | 0:16:38 | 0:16:46 | |
It's not far from the border with France, and it's an important | 0:16:46 | 0:16:50 | |
stopping place for the pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela, | 0:16:50 | 0:16:55 | |
a mere 400-mile slog to where they can earn a peaceful and guilt-free afterlife. | 0:16:55 | 0:17:00 | |
Many of the pilgrims would have called in to see the famous Santo Domingo, | 0:17:03 | 0:17:07 | |
who also happens to be the patron saint of road menders. | 0:17:07 | 0:17:11 | |
He's connected to rather a strange story which manifests itself into almost a scene from Monty Python. | 0:17:14 | 0:17:21 | |
COCK CROWS | 0:17:21 | 0:17:23 | |
See what I mean? | 0:17:23 | 0:17:25 | |
Well, the story that I like is this, that three pilgrims - a father and a mother | 0:17:25 | 0:17:29 | |
travelling with their son - are put up for a night in a local taverna. | 0:17:29 | 0:17:34 | |
The father and mother had gone off to Vespers but the son was feeling | 0:17:34 | 0:17:38 | |
a bit ill, so he decided to have an early night. | 0:17:38 | 0:17:41 | |
Well, the landlady of this taverna took a real like to him | 0:17:41 | 0:17:45 | |
and tried to seduce him, but he was having none of it. | 0:17:45 | 0:17:49 | |
She was so cross that she ran out into the road screaming, "Rape, rape, theft, theft!" | 0:17:49 | 0:17:55 | |
And the poor boy was taken before the local mayor and there and then found guilty and strung up. | 0:17:55 | 0:18:02 | |
Well, what happened then is extraordinary. | 0:18:02 | 0:18:06 | |
Before departing on their pilgrimage to Santiago, the distraught parents went to see their son | 0:18:06 | 0:18:13 | |
hanging on the gallows for one last time - he was still alive! | 0:18:13 | 0:18:17 | |
Santo Domingo had saved him, had lifted his body up | 0:18:17 | 0:18:20 | |
and prevented the rope from doing its terrible work. | 0:18:20 | 0:18:24 | |
They rushed to the mayor, | 0:18:24 | 0:18:26 | |
who was just sitting down to eat a roast cock and a roast hen, | 0:18:26 | 0:18:29 | |
and they told him that their son was still alive. | 0:18:29 | 0:18:32 | |
He said, "If that's true, the cock will get up and crow | 0:18:32 | 0:18:36 | |
"and the hen will cluck", which, of course, they did. | 0:18:36 | 0:18:39 | |
COCK CROWS | 0:18:39 | 0:18:42 | |
And then they flew out of the window. | 0:18:42 | 0:18:45 | |
In celebration of that, for the last 600 years, they've kept a cock | 0:18:45 | 0:18:49 | |
and a hen in the most beautifully gilded cage on Earth, | 0:18:49 | 0:18:54 | |
except in the winter, when it's too cold. | 0:18:54 | 0:18:57 | |
COCK CROWS | 0:18:59 | 0:19:01 | |
I suppose if I had a neat and tidy mind, I should be cooking a Riojan chicken dish, | 0:19:05 | 0:19:10 | |
but one of the most popular flavours in Northern Spain is salt cod. | 0:19:10 | 0:19:15 | |
Maybe it's a religious influence. Most probably. | 0:19:15 | 0:19:18 | |
But this is one of the best Spanish dishes I know. | 0:19:18 | 0:19:21 | |
So, as you can see, this is what bacalao salt cod looks like | 0:19:27 | 0:19:31 | |
when it's been soaked for about 24 hours, | 0:19:31 | 0:19:33 | |
and this what bacalao looks like when it's salted | 0:19:33 | 0:19:37 | |
and relatively dry. This is very good quality bacalao. | 0:19:37 | 0:19:40 | |
You can always judge by the thickness of it. It comes from a really thick cod. | 0:19:40 | 0:19:46 | |
And in fact, I would go as far as to say that the Spanish actually | 0:19:46 | 0:19:49 | |
prefer salt cod to fresh cod. Not to fresh hake, of course. | 0:19:49 | 0:19:53 | |
And I'd also go as far to say that I doubt there's a restaurant | 0:19:53 | 0:19:56 | |
in the whole of Spain that doesn't serve bacalao in some form. | 0:19:56 | 0:20:00 | |
In this case, it's going to be mixed with some mashed potato | 0:20:00 | 0:20:03 | |
and stuffed into some piquillo peppers. | 0:20:03 | 0:20:05 | |
So first of all to poach the cod. | 0:20:05 | 0:20:07 | |
I'm going to leave that simmering there for about 15 minutes, I guess. | 0:20:10 | 0:20:14 | |
The reason for putting it in with the potatoes is part economy - | 0:20:14 | 0:20:18 | |
saving on gas - but mostly because I want the flavour of the salt cod | 0:20:18 | 0:20:22 | |
to go into the potato water, cos I'm going to use some of it in my puree. | 0:20:22 | 0:20:26 | |
The piquillo peppers - sorry, piquillo peppers - conveniently come in tins, thank goodness, | 0:20:26 | 0:20:32 | |
otherwise I'd have to roast and skin them, which would take ages. | 0:20:32 | 0:20:36 | |
The Spanish, I've found, use loads of tinned food. | 0:20:36 | 0:20:39 | |
I take the skin off and check these lovely silky flakes for bones, | 0:20:39 | 0:20:44 | |
and then simply break them up | 0:20:44 | 0:20:46 | |
before mixing them in with the mashed potatoes. | 0:20:46 | 0:20:49 | |
Again, another dish that stemmed from the New World. | 0:20:49 | 0:20:52 | |
The cod was originally caught by the Basques off Newfoundland, | 0:20:52 | 0:20:55 | |
and the potatoes and peppers were brought back to Spain from South America.' | 0:20:55 | 0:21:00 | |
This is very satisfying doing this | 0:21:00 | 0:21:03 | |
and it's already looking very delicious, | 0:21:03 | 0:21:06 | |
but the thought of adding garlic and olive oil to it as well is very nice to me. | 0:21:06 | 0:21:11 | |
'I've roughly smashed up about four or five cloves of garlic | 0:21:13 | 0:21:17 | |
'and then that with the olive oil makes this quite wonderful filling | 0:21:17 | 0:21:21 | |
'for those soft sweet peppers.' | 0:21:21 | 0:21:22 | |
I must say, this is not easy, and I'm blowed if I'm going to put | 0:21:25 | 0:21:29 | |
everything in a piping bag. I'm not going to be a cheffy little chef | 0:21:29 | 0:21:32 | |
and do that. No, I'm going to use a teaspoon and my fingers. | 0:21:32 | 0:21:35 | |
I love this way of cooking, this sort of rugged way. | 0:21:37 | 0:21:41 | |
I mean, just look at that, that's the colours of Spain, | 0:21:41 | 0:21:44 | |
the Cazuela, the earthenware dish, and those deep red peppers | 0:21:44 | 0:21:48 | |
and the salt cod and potato - that is appetising. | 0:21:48 | 0:21:51 | |
'Now I grate some manchego, Spain's most famous cheese from La Mancha, | 0:21:53 | 0:21:58 | |
'and for that extra heat and smokiness, a sprinkling of pimenton.' | 0:21:58 | 0:22:02 | |
That goes in a hot oven for about 15 minutes. | 0:22:04 | 0:22:07 | |
Look at that view - fantastic. Makes me want to cook. | 0:22:10 | 0:22:16 | |
'It makes me want to eat as well. | 0:22:18 | 0:22:20 | |
'If I had to choose my top five dishes of Spain, | 0:22:20 | 0:22:23 | |
'this would definitely be one of them, and it's on the menus | 0:22:23 | 0:22:27 | |
'of any self respecting tapas bar in the whole of the county. | 0:22:27 | 0:22:32 | |
'Muy bueno.' | 0:22:32 | 0:22:34 | |
'I wish I was driving through Rioja at harvest time, | 0:22:42 | 0:22:45 | |
'seeing the deep purple tempranillo grapes being picked. | 0:22:45 | 0:22:49 | |
'The wine has a massive cache for me, | 0:22:49 | 0:22:52 | |
'because Rioja was the first truly great Spanish wine I tasted. | 0:22:52 | 0:22:57 | |
'This is the winery of Miguel Merino. He's a relative newcomer | 0:22:57 | 0:23:01 | |
'to the wine business here, | 0:23:01 | 0:23:03 | |
'but the Washington Post said that his wine is "eminently drinkable", | 0:23:03 | 0:23:08 | |
'so much so that they gave it a top prize in a blind tasting. | 0:23:08 | 0:23:13 | |
'Miguel insisted that I try Chuletillas - | 0:23:13 | 0:23:16 | |
'lamb cutlets cooked over vine trimmings.' | 0:23:16 | 0:23:19 | |
Like many wine makers that I've spoken to, | 0:23:19 | 0:23:23 | |
you seem to very relaxed, humorous, full of pleasure, really. | 0:23:23 | 0:23:29 | |
Is it cos you like the wine, or is it because of the lifestyle? | 0:23:29 | 0:23:33 | |
Yes, well, I think that we are talking about | 0:23:33 | 0:23:36 | |
the epicentre of happiness. | 0:23:36 | 0:23:39 | |
If some people want to celebrate something, what a better way | 0:23:39 | 0:23:42 | |
than to have a good meal and a good glass of wine? | 0:23:42 | 0:23:45 | |
And in a way, I felt jealous when I was a student. | 0:23:45 | 0:23:48 | |
I wanted for a while to be a doctor, to help people be healthy and happy, | 0:23:48 | 0:23:55 | |
and I feel now I'm making some people feel happy as well, | 0:23:55 | 0:23:58 | |
and healthy, and this is a healthy... This is very healthy as well. | 0:23:58 | 0:24:02 | |
Who does more for mankind, wine makers or doctors? | 0:24:02 | 0:24:06 | |
I think wine makers, personally. | 0:24:06 | 0:24:08 | |
-We better watch the... Do you mind holding it? -No, no, not at all. | 0:24:08 | 0:24:11 | |
I'd better turn round the lamb chops otherwise... Yes. | 0:24:11 | 0:24:16 | |
And we are going to put them now so that these ones cook better. | 0:24:16 | 0:24:22 | |
-A bit hotter. -Yeah. -Oh, yeah, yeah. | 0:24:22 | 0:24:24 | |
So I normally put, like, some well done and some less. | 0:24:24 | 0:24:30 | |
-For personal taste? -So people can choose. | 0:24:30 | 0:24:33 | |
'The Chuletillas were cooked for less than ten minutes. | 0:24:33 | 0:24:37 | |
'They come from milk-fed lambs. I was ravenous because, in filming land, you film lots of | 0:24:37 | 0:24:43 | |
'food-related things but most of the day is filled up with travelling. | 0:24:43 | 0:24:49 | |
'Eating, you'll be surprised to learn, is a rarity.' | 0:24:49 | 0:24:52 | |
-Yes. -Get some bread. -Yeah. | 0:24:52 | 0:24:55 | |
Miguel, I love this sort of TV - eating lovely lamb chops, drinking lovely wine, | 0:24:55 | 0:24:59 | |
talking with a very intelligent, articulate Spaniard who speaks perfect English. | 0:24:59 | 0:25:05 | |
-Thank you very much. -It makes the job just a joy. | 0:25:05 | 0:25:08 | |
-It's pity, I will... I like to see your face when you receive the bill. -Oh! | 0:25:08 | 0:25:12 | |
No, not really, not really. We are hospitable people here. | 0:25:12 | 0:25:16 | |
Just tell me, because there's such a sort of synergy between the wine and the sheep, | 0:25:16 | 0:25:21 | |
I mean, do they... | 0:25:21 | 0:25:23 | |
-Presumably they live in the same part? -They live most of the time here. -Yeah. | 0:25:23 | 0:25:26 | |
-Normally, the hurdles go into the hills. -Flocks, flocks. | 0:25:26 | 0:25:31 | |
-Hurdles are what you'd pen them up in...with. -So flocks. | 0:25:31 | 0:25:35 | |
-Flocks. Flocks of sheep. -Mm-hm. -That's a collection. -Mm-hm. | 0:25:35 | 0:25:39 | |
Well, they stay here most of the time, | 0:25:39 | 0:25:42 | |
but in winter, there is no pasture here | 0:25:42 | 0:25:45 | |
so they will migrate in big flocks to the south west of Spain, | 0:25:45 | 0:25:50 | |
-a place called Extremadura. -Really? | 0:25:50 | 0:25:53 | |
But it takes a long while to go, and it is such a long tradition that, | 0:25:53 | 0:26:01 | |
in Madrid, it may be sometimes that the traffic has to stop | 0:26:01 | 0:26:05 | |
and let a flock of sheep come through because they have much priority. | 0:26:05 | 0:26:11 | |
It is a much older tradition than automobiles. | 0:26:11 | 0:26:16 | |
-What a wonderful country, where sheep have priority over traffic! -Yes, and my last name is Merino, | 0:26:16 | 0:26:22 | |
-so I'm very proud of this priority in a way. Cheers. -Cheers. | 0:26:22 | 0:26:27 | |
'Rioja is the smallest region in Spain, but I wouldn't mind betting | 0:26:30 | 0:26:35 | |
'it's the richest, too. | 0:26:35 | 0:26:37 | |
'For the very first time on this journey, as I travel eastwards, | 0:26:37 | 0:26:41 | |
'I'm feeling a real touch of the Mediterranean.' | 0:26:41 | 0:26:46 | |
It's been a journey of discovery, of course, for me... | 0:26:46 | 0:26:49 | |
Excuse me. These gears on this campy are not totally to my liking. | 0:26:49 | 0:26:53 | |
It's been a real journey of discovery because I really do think | 0:26:53 | 0:26:57 | |
that people have a sort of impression of Spanish food as being | 0:26:57 | 0:27:01 | |
'all sort of olive oil and, you know, paella and those sort of dishes | 0:27:01 | 0:27:05 | |
'that we all know, but the real sort of country cooking is much more | 0:27:05 | 0:27:11 | |
'sort of wedded to the land, really. | 0:27:11 | 0:27:14 | |
'Also what they really love, and I love this about the Spanish, is their bread. | 0:27:14 | 0:27:19 | |
'I mean, these days people back home have sort of forgotten about bread. | 0:27:19 | 0:27:24 | |
'Maybe it's cos we went through a period of having such dull bread. | 0:27:24 | 0:27:28 | |
'Now, thank goodness, we're getting some good bakers back. | 0:27:28 | 0:27:32 | |
'But the Spanish never lost that connection with bread, | 0:27:32 | 0:27:35 | |
'which is really the stuff of life. | 0:27:35 | 0:27:37 | |
'And the way the bread in itself and the way they grill it | 0:27:37 | 0:27:40 | |
'and they rub it with things | 0:27:40 | 0:27:43 | |
'like alioli or tomatoes, | 0:27:43 | 0:27:46 | |
'and also the way they make so many dishes out of stale bread. | 0:27:46 | 0:27:50 | |
'I love that connection with the realities that bread's all about. | 0:27:50 | 0:27:54 | |
'It's sort of not a particularly well-off country. | 0:27:54 | 0:27:57 | |
'We get this impression, with these beautiful roads | 0:27:57 | 0:28:01 | |
'and these windmills everywhere, that everything's charging ahead, | 0:28:01 | 0:28:05 | |
'it's a modern, successful economy, but the real Spain isn't like that.' | 0:28:05 | 0:28:10 | |
It's much poorer and much more used to making do with what's available. | 0:28:10 | 0:28:14 | |
And what's available is what I like, cos it's things like | 0:28:14 | 0:28:18 | |
good tomatoes, good olive oil, good wild mushrooms, good garlic. | 0:28:18 | 0:28:24 | |
-'And good gears.' -And good gears. | 0:28:24 | 0:28:27 | |
HE LAUGHS | 0:28:27 | 0:28:28 | |
'I couldn't pass up this opportunity. | 0:28:29 | 0:28:32 | |
'This is Ester Solanas, maker of one of Spain's most iconic products. | 0:28:32 | 0:28:36 | |
'There's no question that this is the most famous sausage in Spain.' | 0:28:36 | 0:28:42 | |
I know my pronunciation's often a bit way off key, | 0:28:42 | 0:28:46 | |
but it's not "choritzo", it's "choritho". | 0:28:46 | 0:28:50 | |
'I notice with approval that the meat has quite a lot of fat in it, | 0:28:50 | 0:28:54 | |
'perfect for sausages. | 0:28:54 | 0:28:55 | |
'She showed me on the little piggy where it comes from. | 0:28:55 | 0:29:00 | |
The shoulder. | 0:29:00 | 0:29:01 | |
-Si. El hombro. -El hombro. | 0:29:01 | 0:29:03 | |
La parte trasera. | 0:29:03 | 0:29:05 | |
-La pierna. -The ham, the rump. Yeah, yeah. -Si. | 0:29:05 | 0:29:08 | |
-Just those two? -Si, si. Es la parte mejor. | 0:29:08 | 0:29:13 | |
The best bits. | 0:29:13 | 0:29:14 | |
No tiene hueso, la parte mas rica. | 0:29:14 | 0:29:17 | |
La pancetta se queda para comer loncheado. | 0:29:17 | 0:29:21 | |
-Oh, the belly pork doesn't go in. That's done separately. -Si. | 0:29:21 | 0:29:25 | |
Jolly good, thank you very much. I like your pig. | 0:29:25 | 0:29:28 | |
'Esther adds dried garlic, rock salt, | 0:29:28 | 0:29:34 | |
'and the most Spanish of spices - pimenton. | 0:29:34 | 0:29:38 | |
'And then she pours in half a litre of water | 0:29:39 | 0:29:42 | |
'and starts to mix it up - by hand, I notice.' | 0:29:42 | 0:29:46 | |
I've just tasted some of the pimenton in there | 0:29:48 | 0:29:51 | |
and it's lovely. It's got that really deep, smoky flavour. | 0:29:51 | 0:29:54 | |
In fact, I used to think that chorizos were actually put in | 0:29:54 | 0:29:57 | |
the smoke, hung up in smoke, but it's not - it's that pimenton. | 0:29:57 | 0:30:01 | |
I just love the deep red colour of pimenton. | 0:30:01 | 0:30:05 | |
And I read somewhere, if you think about the Spanish flag, it's just the deep red, | 0:30:05 | 0:30:09 | |
which is the red of pimenton, and deep yellow of saffron, | 0:30:09 | 0:30:13 | |
and no self respecting kitchen would be without either ingredient - | 0:30:13 | 0:30:17 | |
by far the most important flavours in Spanish cooking. | 0:30:17 | 0:30:21 | |
'Actually, I subsequently found out that some chorizos are smoked. | 0:30:21 | 0:30:25 | |
'Anyway, Alexandre Dumas once said that each household makes | 0:30:25 | 0:30:29 | |
'a chorizo for every day, and an extra 50 for when guests arrive.' | 0:30:29 | 0:30:35 | |
I asked Ester how important chorizo was to the people of Rioja | 0:30:35 | 0:30:40 | |
and she said, to all the Spanish people, it is the sausage. | 0:30:40 | 0:30:42 | |
It's not just to be eaten on its own and in cooking, | 0:30:42 | 0:30:45 | |
but in tapas as well. | 0:30:45 | 0:30:47 | |
She said it's as important as the ham is, Iberico ham, | 0:30:47 | 0:30:51 | |
and as important to the Spanish as something like salami is | 0:30:51 | 0:30:55 | |
to the Italians. | 0:30:55 | 0:30:56 | |
So that's how they do the little links - they stitch up the ends. | 0:31:02 | 0:31:05 | |
Just asked her how long they hang the chorizo for, | 0:31:05 | 0:31:08 | |
and she said that, in the winter, it's weather depending, | 0:31:08 | 0:31:11 | |
but in the winter for about four weeks, and in the summer, for three. | 0:31:11 | 0:31:16 | |
'I think the people in Ezcaray are lucky to have | 0:31:16 | 0:31:19 | |
'Ester in the high street. | 0:31:19 | 0:31:21 | |
'I really felt I'd learnt something that afternoon, and more or less | 0:31:21 | 0:31:24 | |
'then and there began thinking about what I could cook with chorizos. | 0:31:24 | 0:31:28 | |
'Well, I thought I'd cook a dish with partridge | 0:31:28 | 0:31:30 | |
'because they're really plentiful here. | 0:31:30 | 0:31:32 | |
'And white beans, of course. It's got to be chorizo and white beans.' | 0:31:32 | 0:31:38 | |
Well, I came up with the idea of this dish and, in fact, | 0:31:38 | 0:31:41 | |
it's my take on the food of Rioja when I was watching Ester | 0:31:41 | 0:31:44 | |
make those chorizos. | 0:31:44 | 0:31:46 | |
I've always thought they were rather complicated | 0:31:46 | 0:31:49 | |
but it's just pork, salt, pimenton and garlic, and that's all. | 0:31:49 | 0:31:54 | |
And they're so famous. I mean, they are, to me, the most famous sausage | 0:31:54 | 0:31:58 | |
in Spain, and they really flavour so many different dishes. | 0:31:58 | 0:32:02 | |
And I thought, "What would go well with chorizo in a main course?" | 0:32:02 | 0:32:06 | |
And I was thinking of those big open spaces in Rioja | 0:32:06 | 0:32:09 | |
and loads of partridges. Cabbage - well, that's sort of a bit of a British thing, | 0:32:09 | 0:32:13 | |
but the Spanish eat a lot of cabbage, particularly around Easter. | 0:32:13 | 0:32:16 | |
Red wine. Of course, Rioja had to go in there. Chorizo, | 0:32:16 | 0:32:20 | |
a bit of Serrano ham, | 0:32:20 | 0:32:21 | |
garlic, of course - makes a great dish. | 0:32:21 | 0:32:23 | |
And finally, some white beans cooked with pork bones. | 0:32:23 | 0:32:27 | |
'The beans have been soaked. | 0:32:29 | 0:32:31 | |
'You'd be surprised how much flavour you get from these pork bones. | 0:32:31 | 0:32:35 | |
'Next, I fry off the chorizo and almost instantly out comes | 0:32:35 | 0:32:39 | |
'the fat and the colour from the pimenton. | 0:32:39 | 0:32:42 | |
'And now for the partridge. This bird is really popular in Spain. | 0:32:42 | 0:32:46 | |
'I suppose the birds thrive in the terrain. | 0:32:46 | 0:32:48 | |
'And of course, there are so many shooting estates in the country. | 0:32:48 | 0:32:52 | |
'It's big business.' | 0:32:52 | 0:32:54 | |
Of course, when you start cooking with chorizo, you've got that | 0:32:54 | 0:32:57 | |
lovely deep orangey brown colour | 0:32:57 | 0:32:59 | |
which makes everything look appetising, | 0:32:59 | 0:33:02 | |
and the wonderful smell of the pimenton as well. | 0:33:02 | 0:33:04 | |
You just know it's going to bring out the lovely gamey | 0:33:04 | 0:33:07 | |
flavour of the partridges. | 0:33:07 | 0:33:10 | |
'Now these beauties are ready for roasting. I'll put some sea salt and pepper on them | 0:33:12 | 0:33:18 | |
'and put them in a hot oven for around 25 minutes.' | 0:33:18 | 0:33:21 | |
'Game and cabbage go so well together. | 0:33:25 | 0:33:28 | |
'I think if I was back home, I'd use Savoy, it's a bit sweeter. | 0:33:28 | 0:33:32 | |
'This is the sort of cabbage you'd make coleslaw with. | 0:33:32 | 0:33:35 | |
'I got this in the local supermarket down the valley in Casarabonela. | 0:33:35 | 0:33:40 | |
'Now, Serrano ham - a chunk of it so you can cut it into lardons.' | 0:33:40 | 0:33:44 | |
I just think the Spanish are terribly lucky in having such | 0:33:44 | 0:33:47 | |
positive flavours as things like Serrano ham, chorizo, pimenton, | 0:33:47 | 0:33:53 | |
an unabashed excess of garlic and lots and lots of very deep red wine. | 0:33:53 | 0:33:58 | |
Just makes the food so lively. | 0:33:58 | 0:34:00 | |
'The partridge, especially the red legged one, has been adored in Spain since the Middle Ages. | 0:34:01 | 0:34:07 | |
'Poets and painters have immortalised it, and it's been set | 0:34:07 | 0:34:11 | |
'before kings and princes for centuries. | 0:34:11 | 0:34:14 | |
'But that's enough history. | 0:34:14 | 0:34:16 | |
'Now, into the chorizo I add onions, garlic and the Serrano, | 0:34:16 | 0:34:20 | |
'and the all-important Rioja. It's not a time to be stingy. | 0:34:20 | 0:34:25 | |
'Reduce that down until it thickens a bit. Next, add sprigs of thyme, | 0:34:25 | 0:34:31 | |
'poetically what the partridge has been eating, and then the cabbage. | 0:34:31 | 0:34:35 | |
'Give that a good stir round so that it's coated with the chorizo, | 0:34:35 | 0:34:40 | |
'garlic and onions, add chicken stock and butter, melt that in, | 0:34:40 | 0:34:44 | |
'cook for a few minutes and it's done.' | 0:34:44 | 0:34:47 | |
'Serve up with the beans. | 0:34:47 | 0:34:49 | |
'I think Spanish white beans are the best in the world. | 0:34:49 | 0:34:52 | |
'Then out comes the cabbage and chorizo. | 0:34:52 | 0:34:54 | |
'Get set for a real treat. | 0:34:54 | 0:34:56 | |
'I'm rather pleased with this, | 0:34:56 | 0:34:58 | |
'and the idea started off in Ester's butcher's shop in Ezcaray. | 0:34:58 | 0:35:03 | |
'Enjoy it with what's left of your Rioja. | 0:35:03 | 0:35:07 | |
'This dish will not disappoint.' | 0:35:07 | 0:35:09 | |
'Pamplona is in neighbouring Navarra. | 0:35:15 | 0:35:17 | |
'It's much loved by the Americans and the British, | 0:35:17 | 0:35:20 | |
'mainly because of the famous running of the bulls at the height of the summer. | 0:35:20 | 0:35:24 | |
'In the main square is the famous Cafe Iruna, looking exactly | 0:35:24 | 0:35:27 | |
'as it's always looked for a hundred years or more.' | 0:35:27 | 0:35:32 | |
Loads of famous people came here - it's a magnet for them. | 0:35:32 | 0:35:35 | |
Everybody from the Kennedys, Charlton Heston, | 0:35:35 | 0:35:39 | |
probably while he was filming El Cid, Orson Wells, | 0:35:39 | 0:35:42 | |
loads of matadors. | 0:35:42 | 0:35:44 | |
I bet Ava Gardener came here when she was making The Sun Also Rises, | 0:35:44 | 0:35:48 | |
because she took up with one of the matadors, | 0:35:48 | 0:35:51 | |
much to Frank Sinatra's consternation. | 0:35:51 | 0:35:53 | |
But the person that really, really interests me, of course, is Don Ernesto - Ernest Hemingway. | 0:35:53 | 0:36:00 | |
I mean, I was such a fan of his when I was young. | 0:36:00 | 0:36:03 | |
He was the macho man. | 0:36:03 | 0:36:05 | |
I love his sort of really, really short prose style. | 0:36:05 | 0:36:10 | |
And, I mean, coming here - just look at this. | 0:36:10 | 0:36:13 | |
I mean, he wouldn't have had to do much more in Pamplona than sit here | 0:36:13 | 0:36:16 | |
and watch the world going by. | 0:36:16 | 0:36:18 | |
I mean, it's still full of atmosphere | 0:36:18 | 0:36:20 | |
and my gosh, it would've been like that in the '40s and '50s. | 0:36:20 | 0:36:24 | |
'I'm told Hemmingway used to drink vast quantities of rose wine, | 0:36:26 | 0:36:30 | |
'a speciality of Navarra, and he would have found it | 0:36:30 | 0:36:33 | |
'so easy to capture the spirit of the fiesta - | 0:36:33 | 0:36:37 | |
'a heady mixture of life and death, the endless drinking | 0:36:37 | 0:36:41 | |
'and the incessant banging of drums, | 0:36:41 | 0:36:43 | |
'the harsh singing that never stopped, and the dancing. | 0:36:43 | 0:36:46 | |
'And then at eight in the morning, it would all kick off again | 0:36:46 | 0:36:49 | |
'with the running of the bulls, on their way to the ring, | 0:36:49 | 0:36:52 | |
'their last taste of freedom before a bloody death in the afternoon. | 0:36:52 | 0:36:58 | |
'So here's to you, Don Ernesto. I'm glad it's not the bull running | 0:36:58 | 0:37:01 | |
'season at the moment. I can just imagine what the director would have me doing. | 0:37:01 | 0:37:06 | |
'But I did come across Mark Eveleigh, a journalist | 0:37:06 | 0:37:09 | |
'who's a bit of a veteran where bull running is concerned.' | 0:37:09 | 0:37:12 | |
'It was pretty much Hemingway, reading about Hemingway, | 0:37:12 | 0:37:15 | |
'that brought me here as well, originally. | 0:37:15 | 0:37:17 | |
'I came here, I think, the first time in '94 and fell in love | 0:37:17 | 0:37:20 | |
with the fiesta and I came back. I think there was ten years that I didn't miss | 0:37:20 | 0:37:25 | |
any fiestas at all. And now I've been living in Pamplona | 0:37:25 | 0:37:29 | |
for the last seven-odd years, and I still like it. I still love it. | 0:37:29 | 0:37:33 | |
So how many bull runs have you done, then? | 0:37:33 | 0:37:36 | |
I did 49 bull runs and then I finally did the 50th | 0:37:36 | 0:37:41 | |
-and, erm, got hammered on the last bull run. -Oh, my gosh! | 0:37:41 | 0:37:45 | |
-What...what happened? -Well, everybody always runs... | 0:37:45 | 0:37:49 | |
they run their traditional section. You run your own section of the run, | 0:37:49 | 0:37:53 | |
cos it's impossible to run the whole strip. | 0:37:53 | 0:37:56 | |
And I was running the run that I always ran | 0:37:56 | 0:37:58 | |
and it normally is pretty smooth, but I let the first set of bulls go past. | 0:37:58 | 0:38:02 | |
They were split into two herds, and I knew that there were more to come, | 0:38:02 | 0:38:05 | |
so I waited on the edge, got back in the street and, as I stepped out | 0:38:05 | 0:38:10 | |
the bull just picked me up on his head, came straight through. | 0:38:10 | 0:38:13 | |
He carried me about ten metres, dropped me on the cobbles and then fell over the top of me. | 0:38:13 | 0:38:17 | |
When you say it picked you up on your head, did you get... | 0:38:17 | 0:38:20 | |
On its head, between the horns. Luckily I was hit between the horns. | 0:38:20 | 0:38:25 | |
If I remember, that bull had gored eight people in the street | 0:38:25 | 0:38:29 | |
further back down before it got to me. | 0:38:29 | 0:38:31 | |
It was one of the worst bulls ever. | 0:38:31 | 0:38:34 | |
Obviously, I didn't know that at the time it hit me, you know? | 0:38:34 | 0:38:37 | |
-But that was it? You weren't going to do any more? -That's enough, I've retired. | 0:38:37 | 0:38:41 | |
-But it... -And now I have a six-year-old daughter as well | 0:38:41 | 0:38:44 | |
and she's made me promise that I won't do any more bull runs. | 0:38:44 | 0:38:47 | |
'Next to the Cafe Iruna is the equally famous Hotel La Perla. | 0:38:47 | 0:38:51 | |
'The head chef is Alex Mugica, who's reintroduced a menu | 0:38:51 | 0:38:55 | |
'from a famous former Pamplona restaurant of the '50s and '60s | 0:38:55 | 0:38:59 | |
'run by nine bourgeois sisters who regularly | 0:38:59 | 0:39:03 | |
'played host to people like Hemingway, Sinatra and even Franco. | 0:39:03 | 0:39:07 | |
'Their most popular dish was this.' | 0:39:07 | 0:39:11 | |
So this is called Rabo Estofado? | 0:39:11 | 0:39:13 | |
Yes. It's a typical dish here in Pamplona. | 0:39:13 | 0:39:15 | |
Every year in San Fermin holy days all the people come here to eat this. | 0:39:15 | 0:39:21 | |
-Really? -Yeah. Yes. | 0:39:21 | 0:39:22 | |
'What Alex does is to dust the individual pieces of oxtail in flour | 0:39:22 | 0:39:27 | |
'before frying them off in olive oil. At the height | 0:39:27 | 0:39:30 | |
'of the San Fermin they'd be using the tails of the bulls killed in the ring. | 0:39:30 | 0:39:35 | |
'I can quite imagine Hemingway eating this.' | 0:39:35 | 0:39:38 | |
OK, Rick. Do you like to prepare this one? | 0:39:38 | 0:39:42 | |
Do you know, I've never cooked oxtail. I have to admit, never. | 0:39:42 | 0:39:46 | |
-Yeah. -I like eating it though. -OK. So I am going to turn... | 0:39:46 | 0:39:50 | |
'It doesn't take long for the oxtails to get a nice golden colour. | 0:39:50 | 0:39:55 | |
'He then takes them out and in another pan he fries loads of garlic. | 0:39:55 | 0:40:00 | |
'I suppose it must have been about six or seven cloves, roughly sliced. | 0:40:00 | 0:40:05 | |
'And then he adds onions, carrots and leeks.' | 0:40:05 | 0:40:09 | |
Alex, you obviously like cooking. Why do you like cooking? | 0:40:09 | 0:40:13 | |
Yeah. Because, er, it makes me very happy, is one. | 0:40:13 | 0:40:17 | |
And I am cooking since I was a child, OK? | 0:40:17 | 0:40:21 | |
Because my parents have a, er, small hotel restaurant | 0:40:21 | 0:40:26 | |
and I always, I have been in the kitchen, yeah. | 0:40:26 | 0:40:31 | |
'He softens the garlic, onions carrots and leeks | 0:40:33 | 0:40:36 | |
'until they caramelise, and now he puts in brandy. | 0:40:36 | 0:40:40 | |
'That's quite a lot, at least a double. | 0:40:40 | 0:40:42 | |
'Now some wine, Navarra wine of course, | 0:40:42 | 0:40:46 | |
'and then he gives it a stir for a couple of minutes. | 0:40:46 | 0:40:48 | |
'This is important because he has to cook out the raw alcohol. | 0:40:48 | 0:40:52 | |
'And once that's done he returns the oxtails to the saucepan | 0:40:52 | 0:40:56 | |
'and then he puts in a really well-reduced beef stock.' | 0:40:56 | 0:40:59 | |
-Now we have to cook this one very slowly. -Yeah, OK. | 0:40:59 | 0:41:04 | |
-Very slow. -And, Alex, could you imagine Ernest Hemingway | 0:41:04 | 0:41:08 | |
-sitting down to a plate of this? -Yes, of course. | 0:41:08 | 0:41:11 | |
Because I know that Hemingway, er, he eat, ate a lot, | 0:41:11 | 0:41:17 | |
so I think, or I know that the Rabo de Toro, | 0:41:17 | 0:41:21 | |
this plate, he love a lot, yeah. | 0:41:21 | 0:41:27 | |
'Halfway through simmering the oxtails he takes them out | 0:41:27 | 0:41:31 | |
'and blitzes those vegetables and all that lovely stock into a thick silky gravy. | 0:41:31 | 0:41:38 | |
'This is the secret of the dish, of course - it's the enriched sauce | 0:41:38 | 0:41:42 | |
'made richer with the juices from the meat, | 0:41:42 | 0:41:44 | |
'that wonderful stock and the wine and the brandy.' | 0:41:44 | 0:41:47 | |
'It's now simmered for practically another hour | 0:41:49 | 0:41:52 | |
'and the colour gets darker and darker | 0:41:52 | 0:41:54 | |
'until it almost looks like chocolate, and then it's served. | 0:41:54 | 0:41:58 | |
'As dishes go, this is as butch as it gets. | 0:41:58 | 0:42:02 | |
'You can easily see Hemingway tucking into this.' | 0:42:02 | 0:42:06 | |
Well...this is excellent! | 0:42:07 | 0:42:11 | |
And er, excuse me, so's the wine. | 0:42:11 | 0:42:14 | |
-Where's it from, the wine? -The wine is from Navarra. | 0:42:16 | 0:42:19 | |
From Navarra, too? Goes with this really well. | 0:42:19 | 0:42:22 | |
Thank you very much. I invite all the people to come to Pamplona to eat Rabo de toro. | 0:42:22 | 0:42:26 | |
I'm sure they will. I'm sure when the programme comes out, | 0:42:26 | 0:42:29 | |
you must get in touch with me and just say, "So many British people!" | 0:42:29 | 0:42:34 | |
-OK, this is full. Thank you. -Cheers, Alex. | 0:42:34 | 0:42:37 | |
Ever eastwards. The sun is three times as hot now | 0:42:40 | 0:42:44 | |
as it was in damp rainy Galicia where I started my journey over a fortnight ago. | 0:42:44 | 0:42:50 | |
Navarra is blessed with an extremely fertile landscape. | 0:42:50 | 0:42:54 | |
It has the damp west wind from where I've just come from, | 0:42:54 | 0:42:57 | |
the protection of the Pyrenees to the north | 0:42:57 | 0:43:00 | |
and the warmth of the Mediterranean breezes coming from the east, | 0:43:00 | 0:43:04 | |
and to top it all, you've got the water from the mighty river Ebro. | 0:43:04 | 0:43:08 | |
And that's why the region is known as the vegetable capital of Spain.' | 0:43:08 | 0:43:13 | |
The flat land of rich alluvial soil | 0:43:14 | 0:43:17 | |
has been chopped into small plots called huertas. | 0:43:17 | 0:43:21 | |
Here, it seems anything will grow. | 0:43:21 | 0:43:24 | |
The town of Tudela is the commercial centre of this garden of Spain. | 0:43:24 | 0:43:28 | |
It was founded by the Romans and like virtually the whole of Spain, | 0:43:28 | 0:43:32 | |
once Rome fell, it was governed for centuries by the Moors. | 0:43:32 | 0:43:37 | |
It's a rare thing to see three distinctive styles of architecture nestling together, | 0:43:37 | 0:43:42 | |
separated by hundreds of years - Roman, Moorish and Christian. | 0:43:42 | 0:43:48 | |
In fact, it was the Romans who named this river the Ebro. | 0:43:48 | 0:43:51 | |
'Today, I'm meeting Floren and his wife Mercedes - | 0:43:53 | 0:43:56 | |
'vegetable growers who supply some of the top chefs in the restaurants in Spain. | 0:43:56 | 0:44:01 | |
'Chefs who really put Spain on the culinary map.' | 0:44:01 | 0:44:04 | |
Artichokes. What is it in Spanish? | 0:44:04 | 0:44:06 | |
-Alcachofa. -Alcachofa. -Alcachofa. -This is beans. | 0:44:06 | 0:44:11 | |
-Oh, broad beans. I love 'em. -Yes. | 0:44:11 | 0:44:13 | |
I just discovered you supply Ferran Adria and Juan Mari Arzak | 0:44:13 | 0:44:19 | |
-with their vegetables. -Si. | 0:44:19 | 0:44:21 | |
So you, you're the vegetable king? | 0:44:21 | 0:44:24 | |
He start 25 years ago, so when Juan Mari is not so famous, | 0:44:24 | 0:44:28 | |
Ferran Adria is not so famous, they start too. | 0:44:28 | 0:44:31 | |
So they, all of them start together, so they grow up together. | 0:44:31 | 0:44:35 | |
-So you're all a formation of the nouvelle cucina? -Si. | 0:44:35 | 0:44:40 | |
Floren and Mercedes had the perfect dish | 0:44:40 | 0:44:43 | |
to show off their selection of vegetables - a minestra, | 0:44:43 | 0:44:47 | |
which is like a thick soup made entirely from young vegetables. | 0:44:47 | 0:44:52 | |
There are runner beans, which take about 30 seconds to blanch, | 0:44:52 | 0:44:56 | |
and Floren chops up some borage stalks. | 0:44:56 | 0:44:58 | |
That's a new one. I've only had it in Pimm's! | 0:44:58 | 0:45:01 | |
He then blanches those, too. | 0:45:01 | 0:45:03 | |
Next he shows me how he prepares the young, freshly picked artichokes. | 0:45:03 | 0:45:08 | |
They're soft enough to be peeled and the flower part of the tip removed and then split in half. | 0:45:08 | 0:45:13 | |
These artichokes, we cook yesterday. | 0:45:13 | 0:45:17 | |
Good Lord! How come they're this sort of turquoise green? | 0:45:17 | 0:45:21 | |
-Just water and salt. -Water and salt?! | 0:45:21 | 0:45:25 | |
Water have to be 2000 magnesium... | 0:45:25 | 0:45:28 | |
Is the word? And more. | 0:45:28 | 0:45:31 | |
-HE SPEAKS SPANISH -And the water from here has this. | 0:45:31 | 0:45:36 | |
I don't think I can do a recipe for it! | 0:45:36 | 0:45:40 | |
It's a great colour. | 0:45:40 | 0:45:42 | |
I've got to get that, I've got to take that back to my restaurants. | 0:45:42 | 0:45:46 | |
I've never seen it. | 0:45:46 | 0:45:49 | |
Now we're going to clean the asparagus. | 0:45:49 | 0:45:51 | |
We're going to show you how we clean. | 0:45:51 | 0:45:54 | |
Like that. | 0:45:54 | 0:45:56 | |
I love gadgets. Can I just have a look? | 0:45:56 | 0:45:58 | |
-Si, of course. -Oh, I've got to have one of those. | 0:45:58 | 0:46:01 | |
I'm surprised Floren hasn't got his name on it. | 0:46:01 | 0:46:05 | |
No. This one, the other one. | 0:46:05 | 0:46:07 | |
He's going to present to you his knife. | 0:46:07 | 0:46:11 | |
-Oh, I'm very... Wow! -And go with you everywhere you go. | 0:46:11 | 0:46:15 | |
FLOREN SPEAKS SPANISH | 0:46:15 | 0:46:17 | |
You're going to remember us, Tudela and our vegetables. | 0:46:17 | 0:46:21 | |
THEY LAUGH | 0:46:21 | 0:46:23 | |
That's for you. Present to you. | 0:46:23 | 0:46:24 | |
He going to be your partner in your trip, so... | 0:46:26 | 0:46:29 | |
'The asparagus will take about five minutes to soften | 0:46:32 | 0:46:35 | |
'and Floren is ready to start the final part of the process. | 0:46:35 | 0:46:39 | |
'He's frying off onions, again picked a minute ago from his huerta, | 0:46:39 | 0:46:44 | |
'along with some young tender garlic stalks, | 0:46:44 | 0:46:46 | |
'and all at that stage straight out of the ground. | 0:46:46 | 0:46:49 | |
'They're mild and subtle. | 0:46:49 | 0:46:52 | |
'Now he adds flour because a minestra is quite thick. | 0:46:52 | 0:46:57 | |
'That will absorb some of the oil while it cooks out. | 0:46:57 | 0:47:00 | |
'And then for the stock. | 0:47:00 | 0:47:03 | |
'He uses a cup full of water from the asparagus | 0:47:03 | 0:47:06 | |
'and another from the electric soup.' | 0:47:06 | 0:47:10 | |
I mean, that is great. It looks a bit like something out of science fiction, | 0:47:10 | 0:47:15 | |
but I mean that will give the finished minestra | 0:47:15 | 0:47:19 | |
such a lovely green spring-like colour. | 0:47:19 | 0:47:22 | |
'Now he puts in the artichokes. | 0:47:22 | 0:47:24 | |
'The thing about this dish is that you use whatever is in season, | 0:47:24 | 0:47:28 | |
'when it's just at its tippy-top best. | 0:47:28 | 0:47:31 | |
'And I think it's a great thing to cook in an allotment - that's if you get the weather. | 0:47:31 | 0:47:36 | |
'I like these baby broad beans. | 0:47:36 | 0:47:39 | |
'Sweet and tender, they'll take seconds to soften. | 0:47:39 | 0:47:42 | |
'And now for the asparagus. | 0:47:42 | 0:47:45 | |
'The Spanish love their fat white asparagus. | 0:47:45 | 0:47:49 | |
'Look at that green now. Just the water?! | 0:47:49 | 0:47:52 | |
'I just somehow can't believe it!' | 0:47:52 | 0:47:54 | |
'Then more runner beans. One of my favourite vegetables, fresh and young. | 0:47:56 | 0:48:00 | |
'and lastly tiny peas, which Floren calls the caviar of the land.' | 0:48:00 | 0:48:05 | |
It's lovely watching this in this allotment, | 0:48:05 | 0:48:08 | |
lovely cooking outdoors, you know, | 0:48:08 | 0:48:10 | |
cos it seems right you can go and pick the artichokes or the broad beans. | 0:48:10 | 0:48:14 | |
You know, the queen of the vegetable, right? | 0:48:14 | 0:48:17 | |
King, king. Sorry! | 0:48:17 | 0:48:20 | |
Well, he have long hair, so maybe...! | 0:48:20 | 0:48:23 | |
Well, it's time for lunch, | 0:48:28 | 0:48:30 | |
and that I'm pleased to say means a glass or possibly two of wine. | 0:48:30 | 0:48:34 | |
Although not as famous as its neighbour Rioja, | 0:48:34 | 0:48:37 | |
I think the wines here in Navarra are just as good. | 0:48:37 | 0:48:40 | |
You see what I mean about this dish? It is just like a thick soup. | 0:48:40 | 0:48:44 | |
-Salud. -Salud. -Salud. | 0:48:47 | 0:48:49 | |
Cheers. I hope to see you next time you have your house here. | 0:48:49 | 0:48:55 | |
'Well, mi casa su casa, that's if you're ever in Padstow.' | 0:48:55 | 0:49:01 | |
So now Catalonia, and it's moments like this | 0:49:12 | 0:49:15 | |
when I realise I can't live without seeing the sea. | 0:49:15 | 0:49:19 | |
It's so important to me. I've been longing for this moment, | 0:49:19 | 0:49:24 | |
ever since we left the mountains of the Basque country. | 0:49:24 | 0:49:27 | |
This is home to the world-famous El Bulli restaurant, but I'm not going there. | 0:49:27 | 0:49:32 | |
Instead I've been invited to join Rafa and his restaurateur friends | 0:49:32 | 0:49:38 | |
a few hundred yards away in a quiet cove | 0:49:38 | 0:49:42 | |
with a heady sense of warm olive oil and garlic. | 0:49:42 | 0:49:46 | |
I must say this filming's an odd sort of thing sometimes. | 0:49:47 | 0:49:51 | |
I mean for weeks now we've been in the rain | 0:49:51 | 0:49:54 | |
and the cold of Northern Spain, trying to find a sunny day, | 0:49:54 | 0:49:58 | |
and suddenly we find ourselves here, the north of Catalonia. | 0:49:58 | 0:50:02 | |
I can remember coming through this part of Spain in the '60s | 0:50:02 | 0:50:06 | |
and it was all like this really, as, in my memory, of course. | 0:50:06 | 0:50:09 | |
But I mean, er, lovely day, nice people, lovely food, real food. | 0:50:09 | 0:50:15 | |
I'm going to see how they make salsa romesco for the first time. | 0:50:15 | 0:50:18 | |
Really looking forward to that. Happy as Larry! | 0:50:18 | 0:50:22 | |
'All the magic of this famous sauce takes place in a mortar. | 0:50:22 | 0:50:27 | |
'Crushed garlic, almonds and fried bread | 0:50:27 | 0:50:30 | |
'cooked until crisp in olive oil. | 0:50:30 | 0:50:32 | |
'And then fried livers, monkfish livers, | 0:50:32 | 0:50:35 | |
'which is really important when you use the salsa in a fish stew. | 0:50:35 | 0:50:39 | |
'That's all smashed up in the mortar. | 0:50:39 | 0:50:43 | |
'Now they tear off fresh parsley and add the fried bread. | 0:50:43 | 0:50:46 | |
'I think this is what cooking and creating flavour should be about. | 0:50:46 | 0:50:50 | |
'When I arrived I saw tomatoes on the barbecue. | 0:50:50 | 0:50:54 | |
'They're skinned and pulped most satisfyingly, | 0:50:54 | 0:50:58 | |
'and then the flesh from the roasted romesco peppers. | 0:50:58 | 0:51:01 | |
'That in all it's golden Catalan glory is a salsa romesco. | 0:51:01 | 0:51:06 | |
'Rafa, my host, starts to make another iconic Catalan dish called a fideua. | 0:51:06 | 0:51:11 | |
'Vermicelli-like pasta is toasted in a pan | 0:51:11 | 0:51:15 | |
'with oil and cloves of garlic until they become golden. | 0:51:15 | 0:51:20 | |
'Well, Catalonia has strong links to Italy. | 0:51:20 | 0:51:23 | |
'In another corner of this fisherman's house a mate of Rafa's | 0:51:23 | 0:51:26 | |
'barbecues the new season's green asparagus. | 0:51:26 | 0:51:30 | |
'And now for the all-important fish stew. | 0:51:31 | 0:51:34 | |
'Chunks of red gurnard and monkfish dusted in flour | 0:51:34 | 0:51:38 | |
'are fried in olive oil.' | 0:51:38 | 0:51:39 | |
What's really nice about this is they're all friends, they're all restaurateurs. | 0:51:39 | 0:51:44 | |
Well, I think one's got a disco, but maybe he or she cooks at the disco. | 0:51:44 | 0:51:48 | |
One of them cooks at El Bulli, which is just around the corner. | 0:51:48 | 0:51:51 | |
But what I really like about it is they're all good cooks, | 0:51:51 | 0:51:54 | |
so I'm picking up tons of stuff and I know that everything they cook | 0:51:54 | 0:51:58 | |
will be the best possible dish, so I'm very excited. | 0:51:58 | 0:52:01 | |
'Once the fish is fried and put to one side, | 0:52:01 | 0:52:05 | |
'the pan is deglazed with fish stock and then in goes some romesco paste. | 0:52:05 | 0:52:10 | |
'That's all mixed together and immediately sieved | 0:52:10 | 0:52:14 | |
'to achieve a smoother sauce for the stew.' | 0:52:14 | 0:52:16 | |
'Finally the fish goes back, and remember, | 0:52:19 | 0:52:21 | |
'they've chosen fish which Rafa refers as "duro" - | 0:52:21 | 0:52:25 | |
'that means it won't break up in the cooking. | 0:52:25 | 0:52:28 | |
'While that simmers, Rafa finishes off the fideua | 0:52:28 | 0:52:31 | |
'by ladling in fish caldo - fish stock.' | 0:52:31 | 0:52:35 | |
I've just been talking to Rafa and he's saying that dishes | 0:52:35 | 0:52:39 | |
like this, these fish dishes, originated from the fisherman. | 0:52:39 | 0:52:42 | |
I mean basically, they would just be coming home from sea, | 0:52:42 | 0:52:45 | |
got all of, sorted all their good fish for market | 0:52:45 | 0:52:49 | |
and kept all the little ones for making a stew for themselves. | 0:52:49 | 0:52:52 | |
And they'd just boil up, sometimes in sea water, | 0:52:52 | 0:52:55 | |
with whatever was available - olive oil, garlic, tomato, | 0:52:55 | 0:52:58 | |
sometimes a pinch of saffron, and that would be a dish. | 0:52:58 | 0:53:01 | |
And now they fetch big money in top restaurants. | 0:53:01 | 0:53:05 | |
OK. HE SPEAKS SPANISH | 0:53:05 | 0:53:08 | |
I think I'm right in what Rafa's just said. | 0:53:08 | 0:53:10 | |
I wondered why he was putting this newspaper on top of this pan | 0:53:10 | 0:53:15 | |
and he said it's just to scare the little vermicellis. | 0:53:15 | 0:53:18 | |
Yeah? | 0:53:18 | 0:53:20 | |
To scare them and they all come up like this, so they're all pointing upwards. | 0:53:20 | 0:53:24 | |
Maybe you put them in the dark and they're saying, "Where's the light, where's the light?" | 0:53:24 | 0:53:29 | |
-Yah, yah. -That's right! | 0:53:29 | 0:53:30 | |
'And sure enough, as the little pasta pieces soak up the stock, | 0:53:33 | 0:53:38 | |
'they begin to point upwards, | 0:53:38 | 0:53:40 | |
'like delicate little flowers searching for sunlight. | 0:53:40 | 0:53:44 | |
'Finally it's time for lunch. Late, even by Spanish standards. | 0:53:44 | 0:53:49 | |
'The fideua is traditionally served with alioli, | 0:53:49 | 0:53:52 | |
'a fiercely garlicky mayonnaise, which works so well with the pasta | 0:53:52 | 0:53:57 | |
'that has soaked up the good fish stock.' | 0:53:57 | 0:54:00 | |
CHATTER IN SPANISH | 0:54:00 | 0:54:02 | |
Excellent! Really good. | 0:54:06 | 0:54:08 | |
Rafa's just said what's lovely about occasions like this, is not just the food, | 0:54:08 | 0:54:12 | |
it's to be here with all his friends, who love his cooking as well. | 0:54:12 | 0:54:16 | |
This is most important. | 0:54:16 | 0:54:18 | |
'After eating the fideua, it was time for the fish stew, | 0:54:18 | 0:54:22 | |
'which has been cooked with that fabulous romesco sauce, | 0:54:22 | 0:54:26 | |
'and it didn't disappoint. | 0:54:26 | 0:54:28 | |
'With great food like this, everyone got into the celebratory spirit. | 0:54:28 | 0:54:33 | |
'It may be to do with all the wine they had while making lunch, | 0:54:33 | 0:54:36 | |
'but in this part of the world, next to their love of food, | 0:54:36 | 0:54:40 | |
'it's football and their beloved Barcelona.' | 0:54:40 | 0:54:44 | |
ALL: Barca, Barca, Barca! | 0:54:44 | 0:54:48 | |
Wherever there's sun, there's celebration. | 0:54:51 | 0:54:54 | |
Further south in Catalonia, in the town of Lleida, | 0:54:54 | 0:54:57 | |
they hold the biggest snail festival I've ever seen. | 0:54:57 | 0:55:01 | |
Thousands of people travel for miles to celebrate their passion for the humble caracoles. | 0:55:01 | 0:55:07 | |
I'm very pleased that the Spanish's love of a good party | 0:55:09 | 0:55:13 | |
extends to snails, cos I love snails! | 0:55:13 | 0:55:16 | |
People either love them or absolutely hate them, | 0:55:16 | 0:55:19 | |
really in the same way as people love or hate oysters. | 0:55:19 | 0:55:22 | |
But, of course, on the sea, on the coast where I live | 0:55:22 | 0:55:25 | |
there are endless oyster festivals, | 0:55:25 | 0:55:27 | |
but great that here at Lleida there's a snail festival! | 0:55:27 | 0:55:31 | |
And this weekend they get through 12 tonnes of snails. | 0:55:31 | 0:55:36 | |
And that is so many snails, there's not enough of them in Spain | 0:55:36 | 0:55:40 | |
so they have to get them from North Africa and South America. | 0:55:40 | 0:55:43 | |
'Before I came here I'd only had snails the French way, | 0:55:43 | 0:55:47 | |
'cooked in garlic, butter and parsley, | 0:55:47 | 0:55:49 | |
'but I lost count of how many different ways they cook them over here.' | 0:55:49 | 0:55:53 | |
I'm just trying to catch up in all things Catalan | 0:55:53 | 0:55:58 | |
and doing a bit of reading and came across an author, | 0:55:58 | 0:56:01 | |
which I must confess I knew nothing about him, | 0:56:01 | 0:56:04 | |
but he's easily the most famous author certainly writing in Catalan in the 20th century, | 0:56:04 | 0:56:10 | |
but probably in Spanish as well. Josep Pla. | 0:56:10 | 0:56:14 | |
And I discovered he's really enthusiastic about food and drink. | 0:56:14 | 0:56:18 | |
He's a real, really loved old whiskies, | 0:56:18 | 0:56:21 | |
and he wrote this thing which I really like, which says, | 0:56:21 | 0:56:25 | |
"Cooking is an art which transforms things | 0:56:25 | 0:56:29 | |
"in an amiable and discreet manner" | 0:56:29 | 0:56:32 | |
which I just think is really what I think about food. | 0:56:32 | 0:56:36 | |
Also, he thought nothing of sitting down and eating 300 snails at one sitting. | 0:56:36 | 0:56:42 | |
Well, I'm just beginning to get the hang of eating these snails | 0:57:05 | 0:57:09 | |
cos you have to just twist them out of the shell | 0:57:09 | 0:57:11 | |
and then just pinch the last bit off, which is, | 0:57:11 | 0:57:15 | |
er, I mean it's not, it's not anything nasty, | 0:57:15 | 0:57:19 | |
but it just isn't as nice-tasting as the rest of the main muscle. | 0:57:19 | 0:57:23 | |
But Rafael was just saying there's going to be 12,000 people eating snails here today. | 0:57:23 | 0:57:30 | |
I mean... | 0:57:30 | 0:57:31 | |
I wonder how many you'd get in the UK? I'm not knocking the UK. | 0:57:31 | 0:57:35 | |
I mean I don't mind that people don't like snails, | 0:57:35 | 0:57:39 | |
but it just seems to me to be so wonderfully Spanish, | 0:57:39 | 0:57:42 | |
that you can get 12,000 people coming here, | 0:57:42 | 0:57:45 | |
drinking, enjoying themselves, eating snails. | 0:57:45 | 0:57:49 | |
I mean, where else in the world? | 0:57:49 | 0:57:51 | |
Isn't there something a bit special about a country | 0:57:51 | 0:57:55 | |
that 12,000 people come to eat snails together? | 0:57:55 | 0:57:58 | |
I think there is. | 0:57:58 | 0:58:00 | |
'Now this is what I like about Spain. | 0:58:00 | 0:58:03 | |
'They actually love being together in a crowd. | 0:58:03 | 0:58:06 | |
'It seems the bigger the crowd, the happier they are. | 0:58:06 | 0:58:09 | |
'Here, there are thousands of enthusiasts | 0:58:09 | 0:58:12 | |
'who don't necessarily know each other, | 0:58:12 | 0:58:15 | |
'but are united in their love for the humble snail. | 0:58:15 | 0:58:19 | |
'Salud!' | 0:58:19 | 0:58:21 | |
Next time, I meet up with a Spanish version of Ringo Starr | 0:58:22 | 0:58:27 | |
and explore the fabulous land of El Cid. | 0:58:27 | 0:58:30 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd | 0:58:42 | 0:58:46 |