Episode 2 Rick Stein's Spain


Episode 2

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Laurie Lee's As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning

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is the sort of book that makes you want to leave immediately for Spain.

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He says, "Between cities, take a bus to the cut-off country -

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"there will only be small inns to stay at,

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"but you will be rewarded by a landscape pure as the sea,

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"ancient and wind-ravaged and bare,

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"where storks and vultures circle majestic skies above herds of black fighting bulls.

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"Show that you're in no hurry, that you're ready to let things happen,

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"and the human encounter which is Spain will follow."

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I'm continuing my journey from the rocky coast of Galicia towards Cantabria in the Basque country.

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I'm getting quite fond of this old camper van, actually. It's sort of, erm,

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it goes along at quite a steady pace, it's not exactly speedy, but

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you can sort of think about things on these long motorways in Spain.

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And on the subject of motorways, it seems there's a dual carriageway linking every shepherd's hut,

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no matter how remote - there's so much of it.

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But I'm hoping to glimpse the Spain I knew as a child on holiday

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by the Bay of Biscay nearly half a century ago.

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I'm a bit puzzled. I first came here when I was eight years old, to Laredo, and I've got really strong

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memories of the hotel we stayed at, called the Hotel Carlos V.

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And I'm told it's around here somewhere, but I've been asking people

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and they said, no, no it's been demolished, it's just a campsite round here.

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But it means a lot to me, because it's probably my earliest sort of gourmet memories -

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I was eight at the time, and we drove over from England in my dad's blue Jaguar Mark VII.

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And I can distinctly remember really liking squid cooked in its own ink with garlic and tomato.

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I liked it and I remember Coke, having it for the first time

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in green bottles - me and my sister just loved those heavy green bottles

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that it came in in those days.

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I suppose for me, it's a bit like my A La Recherche Du Temps Perdu.

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The director won't like this, but what it means is looking,

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going back to your childhood, to those really nostalgic memories.

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My parents brought me here to the Port of Colindres.

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This coast, stretching right up into the Basque country, is world famous for anchovies.

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They're supposed to be the best in the world, because the cold water

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of the Cantabrian sea produces firm-fleshed fish, and that's the secret of good anchovies.

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They need to keep that firmness before they enter the canning factories.

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Look at these silver darlings, they're salted minutes from landing,

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left for five to six hours, washed and packed into barrels to cure for about a year.

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And it's only after that that they're washed again, filleted and put into those lovely ornate tins.

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I've often found the difference between a sardine and an anchovy

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really hard to tell, but when they're as fresh as this, it's easy.

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If you look at the sardine, it's got a sort of greeny, yellowy tinge to it,

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looks sort of more like a mackerel, I suppose.

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But then when you look at an anchovy, it's beautiful.

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It's got this lovely deep blue tinge to it and it's really, really sleek.

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Interestingly, they were telling me, when you get lots of sardines in

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with the anchovies, the price goes right down, because it's the anchovy that's the prized fish.

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I must confess, I rather naively thought that little tins of anchovies were filled by a machine.

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You know, a long conveyor belt and a great vat of olive oil going bloop, bloop, bloop at the end.

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No idea they were done by hand!

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But when you look at how wonderfully laid out all the anchovies are,

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look at all the skill here. Just the way they're snipping and cutting and layering it, it's fabulous.

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And of course, I was just talking to somebody the other day about anchovies,

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a Spanish guy, and he was saying that anchovies are like the ham of the sea, like an Iberico ham,

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and they're that order of quality, really.

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I mean, he was suggesting that anchovies like this are on a par

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with things like Iberico ham, truffles, caviar, that sort of thing, and I totally agree with him.

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Now they're covered with olive oil - a mild one, because you want to taste the fish.

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These are far too good for pizzas, best in a salade Nicoise or a tapas with olives and peppers,

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or best of all, eaten just as they are with bread and a cold glass of wine.

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So here's to anchovies, and the ladies who pack them so beautifully.

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This remote villa in the olive groves of Andalucia is where I cook all my dishes on this journey.

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And here I'm going to prepare a lovely, simple anchovy salad.

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And for that, I need to start with freshly made croutons and a very good olive oil.

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The sort of little things I notice when I'm travelling through another country,

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their croutons are a bit bigger than ours.

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This dish I really dreamt up myself using, obviously, a lot of local ingredients.

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Garlic, of course, olive oil, of course,

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nice croutons - but it's all about the anchovies.

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And actually, what I really like is just getting a tin and taking one out, because they're so sweet.

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They've got this lovely sort of residual sweetness when they're as good as that.

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But I think this salad really does show them off at their very, very best.

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I can't think of anything better than this in the summer -

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eaten outside on a warm sunny day, no fuss. The dressing's important and it's as easy as can be.

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Two egg yolks, whisked, and then garlic.

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I chop it up pretty coarsely at first and then

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crush it ever so slightly with a sea salt to bring out the oils.

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The flavour of garlic is the taste of Spain as far as I'm concerned.

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It was once considered to be only for the poor.

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I still remember my parents saying Spanish food was too greasy, and there was far too much garlic.

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Now mustard - half a teaspoon of Dijon - and a tad more salt, and the juice from half a lemon.

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Then you're ready for the olive oil.

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This dressing stands out with the best of them - it's a mayonnaise really,

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but the lemon and garlic makes it even better.

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Before I got to that factory in Laredo in Cantabria, I was just thinking, well,

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it's bound to be done by a machine, all that filleting of the anchovies,

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so it came as a tremendous, good surprise

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to see all those ladies sitting on their high stools filleting anchovies by hand,

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and sort of popping them to bed in a tin of olive oil.

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And they were so much enjoying what they were doing.

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Do you know, I think it adds to a tin of anchovies when you know that it's done by hand.

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This would probably be my favourite salad of all time - well, certainly today, anyway!

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I'm making this for four, but could easily eat the lot myself. It's just a nice balance here.

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You have the soft creaminess of the eggs, the sweet saltiness of the anchovies,

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the crispness of the lettuce, the warm crunch of the croutons and that luxury touch,

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that sauce or mayonnaise that transports you into a restaurant lapping the shores of the Med.

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And then, of course, there's the wine.

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What better than a cold, very cold Albarino?

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Just as I anticipated - sweet, beautiful.

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Do you know, I make friends with people that share enthusiasms for food with me,

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and I make best friends with people that like chorizo sausages,

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Iberico ham and Cantabrian anchovies.

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Well, that might have been a summer treat, but when Professor Higgins said the rain in Spain

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falls mainly on the plain, he was telling a bit of a fib.

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It rains a lot in the Basque country, too.

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It's a bit like Catalunya - you've got the sea on one side and the mountains on the other.

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It's very lush, as you can see.

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Unfortunately, it's also very rainy, which is rather a shame,

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because the Basque country, particularly up here just going up into the mountains,

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it's incredibly attractive.

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Got lovely limestone peaks and they're really jagged.

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So I'm really disappointed that you can't see them in the mist.

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But I'm on my way to a restaurant which was recommended

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to me by a very well known Australian chef called Neil Perry.

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The thing I like about it, the sound of it, is that everything

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that the chef there, Victor, cooks is cooked over homemade charcoal.

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And apparently it's all to do with his background in the region, in the mountains here.

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He's just very familiar with cooking in this way right back to his childhood.

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So as a bit of a fan of barbecue cooking anyway, I'm utterly looking forward to it.

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Victor - that's him in the black T-shirt - and his chef Lennox

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run what's been described as the world's best barbecue joint.

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Victor designed and built these grills that can be lifted or lowered

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to control the cooking speed - and anyone who has a barbecue will know what a bonus that would be.

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Lennox, would you ask Victor why he cooks in this way?

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Sure.

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HE SPEAKS SPANISH

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He's saying, "Opening this restaurant was a very emotional journey.

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"As a child brought up in a house without gas or electricity,

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"all the cooking was done over a fire, a wood fire."

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So his earliest memories of food were always influenced by the flavours

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of smoke from the charcoal - and the food never tasted better.

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And now, 40 years on, he works to recapture those flavours from his youth.

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Even as a young adult, he worked as a forester in the hillside

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and would cook just like his grandmother did, out on an open fire in the woods.

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He said it's the most natural and the best way to cook.

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HE SPEAKS SPANISH

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-So basically, it is an emotional journey for him.

-Very much so.

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That's really interesting, because I'm a cook, too,

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and the funny thing is that I do feel, from listening to that,

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I suddenly realised all I try to do is go back to my childhood

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and re-create those flavours of when I was little.

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That's all I do, and so I'm totally sympatico with what he's saying.

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These prawns are special. I mean, look at that.

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-So these are the gambas de Palamos...

-Could I?

-By all means.

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I feel diffident about...

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I'm just going to be very Spanish and just...

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Oh, my god! Oh, my gosh!

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They are just...

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Oh, I'm sorry.

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Ask any chef in Spain where the tastiest prawns come from,

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and they'll say Palamos, a fishing port on the Mediterranean in Catalonia - they're quite amazing.

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Just gently warm, just warm the mouth with the succulent flavours of...

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I'm sorry, I'm having a difficult moment, I can't talk any more. It's just so, so wonderful.

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I know this steak is going to be great, too.

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Victor said it actually came from a dairy cow about 12 years old,

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not a young prime three-year-old steer.

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Again he said when he was growing up, this was what they used to eat

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for a special treat, and he doesn't want to change that.

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Well, I can't wait to try this, having watched Victor cook it.

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This is just central to any meat lover's love.

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Just as the quayside in Padstow is the inspiration for my cooking,

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Victor's came from these mountains and wooded valleys.

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It's pretty rare these days to re-create

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the cooking and flavours from your youth and get people

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banging at your door from all over the world wanting to try it.

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And while on the subject of youth, one of the most popular desserts by far

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here in the Basque country is the famous Mamia - a junket made from sheep's milk.

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It's sold everywhere and it's truly loved by the Basques.

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Amelia, the farmer's wife, has made it all her life,

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just like most people who live in this mountainous region.

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All it is is warm milk set by a rennet, which also comes from the sheep.

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Well, I've just watched Amelia make the junket - it's so rural.

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Everybody used to make junket when I was little, but I can't actually remember what it tastes like.

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It's lovely. I was thinking, actually, one of those things

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when I was at school, the three things that were always a bit of a problem for us -

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this was when I was very tiny - was sago, tapioca and junket. But I can't see why.

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SHE SPEAKS BASQUE

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Nourishing stuff, junket.

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The Spanish use of milk in sweets or puddings isn't so very far removed

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from our own, and it isn't only sheep's milk, either.

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Well, this is called leche frita, which literally means fried milk.

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I remember before I got to the Basque country thinking, how do you fry milk?

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Do you drop it into a fryer, does it come out in some sort of like long shreds or something?

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No. What it actually means is, they make a sort of batter, and chill it, and then cut

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the batter up into various shapes and then deep fry it in bread crumbs.

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The warm milk flavoured with lemon zest and vanilla

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is poured onto egg yolks, sugar and flour and whisked together and returned to the heat to cook out.

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Eventually, with a degree of patience and gentle stirring, it forms a very thick custard.

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I don't do enough puds. There's something really comforting about making puds.

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In Spain, the three you'll normally find in restaurants is crema Catalana -

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of course that's a sort of creme brulee Catalan-style - rice pudding and flan.

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When it's nearly solid, spread it into a dish lined with clingfilm,

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so that it forms a wobbly cake, and cool it.

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So that's been in the fridge for about two or three hours and it

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comes out in this rather satisfying slab of, well, cold custard, really.

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To make the fritters, cut them up into bite-sized triangles and coat them in flour and then

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dip them in beaten eggs so that the chunky bread crumbs will form a very satisfying, crunchy coating.

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When the people over here talk about leche frita, fried milk, you can almost hear a lump in their throats,

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for indeed it's the stuff of Spanish childhood memories.

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The hard, sweet, crunchy outside and the cool, creamy interior is just a great combination.

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I'm hungry for the sun.

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I've been travelling for nearly two weeks and it has rained virtually every day.

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But I'm driving ever eastwards, almost feeling the magnetic pull of the Med.

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This is Rioja - a name I find comforting because I've drunk quite a lot of it in my time.

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My first stop is Santo Domingo de la Calzada, a place that has a unique story to tell.

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It's not far from the border with France, and it's an important

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stopping place for the pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela,

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a mere 400-mile slog to where they can earn a peaceful and guilt-free afterlife.

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Many of the pilgrims would have called in to see the famous Santo Domingo,

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who also happens to be the patron saint of road menders.

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He's connected to rather a strange story which manifests itself into almost a scene from Monty Python.

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COCK CROWS

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See what I mean?

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Well, the story that I like is this, that three pilgrims - a father and a mother

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travelling with their son - are put up for a night in a local taverna.

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The father and mother had gone off to Vespers but the son was feeling

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a bit ill, so he decided to have an early night.

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Well, the landlady of this taverna took a real like to him

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and tried to seduce him, but he was having none of it.

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She was so cross that she ran out into the road screaming, "Rape, rape, theft, theft!"

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And the poor boy was taken before the local mayor and there and then found guilty and strung up.

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Well, what happened then is extraordinary.

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Before departing on their pilgrimage to Santiago, the distraught parents went to see their son

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hanging on the gallows for one last time - he was still alive!

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Santo Domingo had saved him, had lifted his body up

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and prevented the rope from doing its terrible work.

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They rushed to the mayor,

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who was just sitting down to eat a roast cock and a roast hen,

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and they told him that their son was still alive.

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He said, "If that's true, the cock will get up and crow

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"and the hen will cluck", which, of course, they did.

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COCK CROWS

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And then they flew out of the window.

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In celebration of that, for the last 600 years, they've kept a cock

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and a hen in the most beautifully gilded cage on Earth,

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except in the winter, when it's too cold.

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COCK CROWS

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I suppose if I had a neat and tidy mind, I should be cooking a Riojan chicken dish,

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but one of the most popular flavours in Northern Spain is salt cod.

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Maybe it's a religious influence. Most probably.

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But this is one of the best Spanish dishes I know.

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So, as you can see, this is what bacalao salt cod looks like

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when it's been soaked for about 24 hours,

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and this what bacalao looks like when it's salted

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and relatively dry. This is very good quality bacalao.

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You can always judge by the thickness of it. It comes from a really thick cod.

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And in fact, I would go as far as to say that the Spanish actually

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prefer salt cod to fresh cod. Not to fresh hake, of course.

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And I'd also go as far to say that I doubt there's a restaurant

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in the whole of Spain that doesn't serve bacalao in some form.

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In this case, it's going to be mixed with some mashed potato

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and stuffed into some piquillo peppers.

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So first of all to poach the cod.

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I'm going to leave that simmering there for about 15 minutes, I guess.

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The reason for putting it in with the potatoes is part economy -

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saving on gas - but mostly because I want the flavour of the salt cod

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to go into the potato water, cos I'm going to use some of it in my puree.

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The piquillo peppers - sorry, piquillo peppers - conveniently come in tins, thank goodness,

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otherwise I'd have to roast and skin them, which would take ages.

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The Spanish, I've found, use loads of tinned food.

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I take the skin off and check these lovely silky flakes for bones,

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and then simply break them up

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before mixing them in with the mashed potatoes.

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Again, another dish that stemmed from the New World.

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The cod was originally caught by the Basques off Newfoundland,

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and the potatoes and peppers were brought back to Spain from South America.'

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This is very satisfying doing this

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and it's already looking very delicious,

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but the thought of adding garlic and olive oil to it as well is very nice to me.

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'I've roughly smashed up about four or five cloves of garlic

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'and then that with the olive oil makes this quite wonderful filling

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'for those soft sweet peppers.'

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I must say, this is not easy, and I'm blowed if I'm going to put

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everything in a piping bag. I'm not going to be a cheffy little chef

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and do that. No, I'm going to use a teaspoon and my fingers.

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I love this way of cooking, this sort of rugged way.

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I mean, just look at that, that's the colours of Spain,

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the Cazuela, the earthenware dish, and those deep red peppers

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and the salt cod and potato - that is appetising.

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'Now I grate some manchego, Spain's most famous cheese from La Mancha,

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'and for that extra heat and smokiness, a sprinkling of pimenton.'

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That goes in a hot oven for about 15 minutes.

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Look at that view - fantastic. Makes me want to cook.

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'It makes me want to eat as well.

0:22:180:22:20

'If I had to choose my top five dishes of Spain,

0:22:200:22:23

'this would definitely be one of them, and it's on the menus

0:22:230:22:27

'of any self respecting tapas bar in the whole of the county.

0:22:270:22:32

'Muy bueno.'

0:22:320:22:34

'I wish I was driving through Rioja at harvest time,

0:22:420:22:45

'seeing the deep purple tempranillo grapes being picked.

0:22:450:22:49

'The wine has a massive cache for me,

0:22:490:22:52

'because Rioja was the first truly great Spanish wine I tasted.

0:22:520:22:57

'This is the winery of Miguel Merino. He's a relative newcomer

0:22:570:23:01

'to the wine business here,

0:23:010:23:03

'but the Washington Post said that his wine is "eminently drinkable",

0:23:030:23:08

'so much so that they gave it a top prize in a blind tasting.

0:23:080:23:13

'Miguel insisted that I try Chuletillas -

0:23:130:23:16

'lamb cutlets cooked over vine trimmings.'

0:23:160:23:19

Like many wine makers that I've spoken to,

0:23:190:23:23

you seem to very relaxed, humorous, full of pleasure, really.

0:23:230:23:29

Is it cos you like the wine, or is it because of the lifestyle?

0:23:290:23:33

Yes, well, I think that we are talking about

0:23:330:23:36

the epicentre of happiness.

0:23:360:23:39

If some people want to celebrate something, what a better way

0:23:390:23:42

than to have a good meal and a good glass of wine?

0:23:420:23:45

And in a way, I felt jealous when I was a student.

0:23:450:23:48

I wanted for a while to be a doctor, to help people be healthy and happy,

0:23:480:23:55

and I feel now I'm making some people feel happy as well,

0:23:550:23:58

and healthy, and this is a healthy... This is very healthy as well.

0:23:580:24:02

Who does more for mankind, wine makers or doctors?

0:24:020:24:06

I think wine makers, personally.

0:24:060:24:08

-We better watch the... Do you mind holding it?

-No, no, not at all.

0:24:080:24:11

I'd better turn round the lamb chops otherwise... Yes.

0:24:110:24:16

And we are going to put them now so that these ones cook better.

0:24:160:24:22

-A bit hotter.

-Yeah.

-Oh, yeah, yeah.

0:24:220:24:24

So I normally put, like, some well done and some less.

0:24:240:24:30

-For personal taste?

-So people can choose.

0:24:300:24:33

'The Chuletillas were cooked for less than ten minutes.

0:24:330:24:37

'They come from milk-fed lambs. I was ravenous because, in filming land, you film lots of

0:24:370:24:43

'food-related things but most of the day is filled up with travelling.

0:24:430:24:49

'Eating, you'll be surprised to learn, is a rarity.'

0:24:490:24:52

-Yes.

-Get some bread.

-Yeah.

0:24:520:24:55

Miguel, I love this sort of TV - eating lovely lamb chops, drinking lovely wine,

0:24:550:24:59

talking with a very intelligent, articulate Spaniard who speaks perfect English.

0:24:590:25:05

-Thank you very much.

-It makes the job just a joy.

0:25:050:25:08

-It's pity, I will... I like to see your face when you receive the bill.

-Oh!

0:25:080:25:12

No, not really, not really. We are hospitable people here.

0:25:120:25:16

Just tell me, because there's such a sort of synergy between the wine and the sheep,

0:25:160:25:21

I mean, do they...

0:25:210:25:23

-Presumably they live in the same part?

-They live most of the time here.

-Yeah.

0:25:230:25:26

-Normally, the hurdles go into the hills.

-Flocks, flocks.

0:25:260:25:31

-Hurdles are what you'd pen them up in...with.

-So flocks.

0:25:310:25:35

-Flocks. Flocks of sheep.

-Mm-hm.

-That's a collection.

-Mm-hm.

0:25:350:25:39

Well, they stay here most of the time,

0:25:390:25:42

but in winter, there is no pasture here

0:25:420:25:45

so they will migrate in big flocks to the south west of Spain,

0:25:450:25:50

-a place called Extremadura.

-Really?

0:25:500:25:53

But it takes a long while to go, and it is such a long tradition that,

0:25:530:26:01

in Madrid, it may be sometimes that the traffic has to stop

0:26:010:26:05

and let a flock of sheep come through because they have much priority.

0:26:050:26:11

It is a much older tradition than automobiles.

0:26:110:26:16

-What a wonderful country, where sheep have priority over traffic!

-Yes, and my last name is Merino,

0:26:160:26:22

-so I'm very proud of this priority in a way. Cheers.

-Cheers.

0:26:220:26:27

'Rioja is the smallest region in Spain, but I wouldn't mind betting

0:26:300:26:35

'it's the richest, too.

0:26:350:26:37

'For the very first time on this journey, as I travel eastwards,

0:26:370:26:41

'I'm feeling a real touch of the Mediterranean.'

0:26:410:26:46

It's been a journey of discovery, of course, for me...

0:26:460:26:49

Excuse me. These gears on this campy are not totally to my liking.

0:26:490:26:53

It's been a real journey of discovery because I really do think

0:26:530:26:57

that people have a sort of impression of Spanish food as being

0:26:570:27:01

'all sort of olive oil and, you know, paella and those sort of dishes

0:27:010:27:05

'that we all know, but the real sort of country cooking is much more

0:27:050:27:11

'sort of wedded to the land, really.

0:27:110:27:14

'Also what they really love, and I love this about the Spanish, is their bread.

0:27:140:27:19

'I mean, these days people back home have sort of forgotten about bread.

0:27:190:27:24

'Maybe it's cos we went through a period of having such dull bread.

0:27:240:27:28

'Now, thank goodness, we're getting some good bakers back.

0:27:280:27:32

'But the Spanish never lost that connection with bread,

0:27:320:27:35

'which is really the stuff of life.

0:27:350:27:37

'And the way the bread in itself and the way they grill it

0:27:370:27:40

'and they rub it with things

0:27:400:27:43

'like alioli or tomatoes,

0:27:430:27:46

'and also the way they make so many dishes out of stale bread.

0:27:460:27:50

'I love that connection with the realities that bread's all about.

0:27:500:27:54

'It's sort of not a particularly well-off country.

0:27:540:27:57

'We get this impression, with these beautiful roads

0:27:570:28:01

'and these windmills everywhere, that everything's charging ahead,

0:28:010:28:05

'it's a modern, successful economy, but the real Spain isn't like that.'

0:28:050:28:10

It's much poorer and much more used to making do with what's available.

0:28:100:28:14

And what's available is what I like, cos it's things like

0:28:140:28:18

good tomatoes, good olive oil, good wild mushrooms, good garlic.

0:28:180:28:24

-'And good gears.'

-And good gears.

0:28:240:28:27

HE LAUGHS

0:28:270:28:28

'I couldn't pass up this opportunity.

0:28:290:28:32

'This is Ester Solanas, maker of one of Spain's most iconic products.

0:28:320:28:36

'There's no question that this is the most famous sausage in Spain.'

0:28:360:28:42

I know my pronunciation's often a bit way off key,

0:28:420:28:46

but it's not "choritzo", it's "choritho".

0:28:460:28:50

'I notice with approval that the meat has quite a lot of fat in it,

0:28:500:28:54

'perfect for sausages.

0:28:540:28:55

'She showed me on the little piggy where it comes from.

0:28:550:29:00

The shoulder.

0:29:000:29:01

-Si. El hombro.

-El hombro.

0:29:010:29:03

La parte trasera.

0:29:030:29:05

-La pierna.

-The ham, the rump. Yeah, yeah.

-Si.

0:29:050:29:08

-Just those two?

-Si, si. Es la parte mejor.

0:29:080:29:13

The best bits.

0:29:130:29:14

No tiene hueso, la parte mas rica.

0:29:140:29:17

La pancetta se queda para comer loncheado.

0:29:170:29:21

-Oh, the belly pork doesn't go in. That's done separately.

-Si.

0:29:210:29:25

Jolly good, thank you very much. I like your pig.

0:29:250:29:28

'Esther adds dried garlic, rock salt,

0:29:280:29:34

'and the most Spanish of spices - pimenton.

0:29:340:29:38

'And then she pours in half a litre of water

0:29:390:29:42

'and starts to mix it up - by hand, I notice.'

0:29:420:29:46

I've just tasted some of the pimenton in there

0:29:480:29:51

and it's lovely. It's got that really deep, smoky flavour.

0:29:510:29:54

In fact, I used to think that chorizos were actually put in

0:29:540:29:57

the smoke, hung up in smoke, but it's not - it's that pimenton.

0:29:570:30:01

I just love the deep red colour of pimenton.

0:30:010:30:05

And I read somewhere, if you think about the Spanish flag, it's just the deep red,

0:30:050:30:09

which is the red of pimenton, and deep yellow of saffron,

0:30:090:30:13

and no self respecting kitchen would be without either ingredient -

0:30:130:30:17

by far the most important flavours in Spanish cooking.

0:30:170:30:21

'Actually, I subsequently found out that some chorizos are smoked.

0:30:210:30:25

'Anyway, Alexandre Dumas once said that each household makes

0:30:250:30:29

'a chorizo for every day, and an extra 50 for when guests arrive.'

0:30:290:30:35

I asked Ester how important chorizo was to the people of Rioja

0:30:350:30:40

and she said, to all the Spanish people, it is the sausage.

0:30:400:30:42

It's not just to be eaten on its own and in cooking,

0:30:420:30:45

but in tapas as well.

0:30:450:30:47

She said it's as important as the ham is, Iberico ham,

0:30:470:30:51

and as important to the Spanish as something like salami is

0:30:510:30:55

to the Italians.

0:30:550:30:56

So that's how they do the little links - they stitch up the ends.

0:31:020:31:05

Just asked her how long they hang the chorizo for,

0:31:050:31:08

and she said that, in the winter, it's weather depending,

0:31:080:31:11

but in the winter for about four weeks, and in the summer, for three.

0:31:110:31:16

'I think the people in Ezcaray are lucky to have

0:31:160:31:19

'Ester in the high street.

0:31:190:31:21

'I really felt I'd learnt something that afternoon, and more or less

0:31:210:31:24

'then and there began thinking about what I could cook with chorizos.

0:31:240:31:28

'Well, I thought I'd cook a dish with partridge

0:31:280:31:30

'because they're really plentiful here.

0:31:300:31:32

'And white beans, of course. It's got to be chorizo and white beans.'

0:31:320:31:38

Well, I came up with the idea of this dish and, in fact,

0:31:380:31:41

it's my take on the food of Rioja when I was watching Ester

0:31:410:31:44

make those chorizos.

0:31:440:31:46

I've always thought they were rather complicated

0:31:460:31:49

but it's just pork, salt, pimenton and garlic, and that's all.

0:31:490:31:54

And they're so famous. I mean, they are, to me, the most famous sausage

0:31:540:31:58

in Spain, and they really flavour so many different dishes.

0:31:580:32:02

And I thought, "What would go well with chorizo in a main course?"

0:32:020:32:06

And I was thinking of those big open spaces in Rioja

0:32:060:32:09

and loads of partridges. Cabbage - well, that's sort of a bit of a British thing,

0:32:090:32:13

but the Spanish eat a lot of cabbage, particularly around Easter.

0:32:130:32:16

Red wine. Of course, Rioja had to go in there. Chorizo,

0:32:160:32:20

a bit of Serrano ham,

0:32:200:32:21

garlic, of course - makes a great dish.

0:32:210:32:23

And finally, some white beans cooked with pork bones.

0:32:230:32:27

'The beans have been soaked.

0:32:290:32:31

'You'd be surprised how much flavour you get from these pork bones.

0:32:310:32:35

'Next, I fry off the chorizo and almost instantly out comes

0:32:350:32:39

'the fat and the colour from the pimenton.

0:32:390:32:42

'And now for the partridge. This bird is really popular in Spain.

0:32:420:32:46

'I suppose the birds thrive in the terrain.

0:32:460:32:48

'And of course, there are so many shooting estates in the country.

0:32:480:32:52

'It's big business.'

0:32:520:32:54

Of course, when you start cooking with chorizo, you've got that

0:32:540:32:57

lovely deep orangey brown colour

0:32:570:32:59

which makes everything look appetising,

0:32:590:33:02

and the wonderful smell of the pimenton as well.

0:33:020:33:04

You just know it's going to bring out the lovely gamey

0:33:040:33:07

flavour of the partridges.

0:33:070:33:10

'Now these beauties are ready for roasting. I'll put some sea salt and pepper on them

0:33:120:33:18

'and put them in a hot oven for around 25 minutes.'

0:33:180:33:21

'Game and cabbage go so well together.

0:33:250:33:28

'I think if I was back home, I'd use Savoy, it's a bit sweeter.

0:33:280:33:32

'This is the sort of cabbage you'd make coleslaw with.

0:33:320:33:35

'I got this in the local supermarket down the valley in Casarabonela.

0:33:350:33:40

'Now, Serrano ham - a chunk of it so you can cut it into lardons.'

0:33:400:33:44

I just think the Spanish are terribly lucky in having such

0:33:440:33:47

positive flavours as things like Serrano ham, chorizo, pimenton,

0:33:470:33:53

an unabashed excess of garlic and lots and lots of very deep red wine.

0:33:530:33:58

Just makes the food so lively.

0:33:580:34:00

'The partridge, especially the red legged one, has been adored in Spain since the Middle Ages.

0:34:010:34:07

'Poets and painters have immortalised it, and it's been set

0:34:070:34:11

'before kings and princes for centuries.

0:34:110:34:14

'But that's enough history.

0:34:140:34:16

'Now, into the chorizo I add onions, garlic and the Serrano,

0:34:160:34:20

'and the all-important Rioja. It's not a time to be stingy.

0:34:200:34:25

'Reduce that down until it thickens a bit. Next, add sprigs of thyme,

0:34:250:34:31

'poetically what the partridge has been eating, and then the cabbage.

0:34:310:34:35

'Give that a good stir round so that it's coated with the chorizo,

0:34:350:34:40

'garlic and onions, add chicken stock and butter, melt that in,

0:34:400:34:44

'cook for a few minutes and it's done.'

0:34:440:34:47

'Serve up with the beans.

0:34:470:34:49

'I think Spanish white beans are the best in the world.

0:34:490:34:52

'Then out comes the cabbage and chorizo.

0:34:520:34:54

'Get set for a real treat.

0:34:540:34:56

'I'm rather pleased with this,

0:34:560:34:58

'and the idea started off in Ester's butcher's shop in Ezcaray.

0:34:580:35:03

'Enjoy it with what's left of your Rioja.

0:35:030:35:07

'This dish will not disappoint.'

0:35:070:35:09

'Pamplona is in neighbouring Navarra.

0:35:150:35:17

'It's much loved by the Americans and the British,

0:35:170:35:20

'mainly because of the famous running of the bulls at the height of the summer.

0:35:200:35:24

'In the main square is the famous Cafe Iruna, looking exactly

0:35:240:35:27

'as it's always looked for a hundred years or more.'

0:35:270:35:32

Loads of famous people came here - it's a magnet for them.

0:35:320:35:35

Everybody from the Kennedys, Charlton Heston,

0:35:350:35:39

probably while he was filming El Cid, Orson Wells,

0:35:390:35:42

loads of matadors.

0:35:420:35:44

I bet Ava Gardener came here when she was making The Sun Also Rises,

0:35:440:35:48

because she took up with one of the matadors,

0:35:480:35:51

much to Frank Sinatra's consternation.

0:35:510:35:53

But the person that really, really interests me, of course, is Don Ernesto - Ernest Hemingway.

0:35:530:36:00

I mean, I was such a fan of his when I was young.

0:36:000:36:03

He was the macho man.

0:36:030:36:05

I love his sort of really, really short prose style.

0:36:050:36:10

And, I mean, coming here - just look at this.

0:36:100:36:13

I mean, he wouldn't have had to do much more in Pamplona than sit here

0:36:130:36:16

and watch the world going by.

0:36:160:36:18

I mean, it's still full of atmosphere

0:36:180:36:20

and my gosh, it would've been like that in the '40s and '50s.

0:36:200:36:24

'I'm told Hemmingway used to drink vast quantities of rose wine,

0:36:260:36:30

'a speciality of Navarra, and he would have found it

0:36:300:36:33

'so easy to capture the spirit of the fiesta -

0:36:330:36:37

'a heady mixture of life and death, the endless drinking

0:36:370:36:41

'and the incessant banging of drums,

0:36:410:36:43

'the harsh singing that never stopped, and the dancing.

0:36:430:36:46

'And then at eight in the morning, it would all kick off again

0:36:460:36:49

'with the running of the bulls, on their way to the ring,

0:36:490:36:52

'their last taste of freedom before a bloody death in the afternoon.

0:36:520:36:58

'So here's to you, Don Ernesto. I'm glad it's not the bull running

0:36:580:37:01

'season at the moment. I can just imagine what the director would have me doing.

0:37:010:37:06

'But I did come across Mark Eveleigh, a journalist

0:37:060:37:09

'who's a bit of a veteran where bull running is concerned.'

0:37:090:37:12

'It was pretty much Hemingway, reading about Hemingway,

0:37:120:37:15

'that brought me here as well, originally.

0:37:150:37:17

'I came here, I think, the first time in '94 and fell in love

0:37:170:37:20

with the fiesta and I came back. I think there was ten years that I didn't miss

0:37:200:37:25

any fiestas at all. And now I've been living in Pamplona

0:37:250:37:29

for the last seven-odd years, and I still like it. I still love it.

0:37:290:37:33

So how many bull runs have you done, then?

0:37:330:37:36

I did 49 bull runs and then I finally did the 50th

0:37:360:37:41

-and, erm, got hammered on the last bull run.

-Oh, my gosh!

0:37:410:37:45

-What...what happened?

-Well, everybody always runs...

0:37:450:37:49

they run their traditional section. You run your own section of the run,

0:37:490:37:53

cos it's impossible to run the whole strip.

0:37:530:37:56

And I was running the run that I always ran

0:37:560:37:58

and it normally is pretty smooth, but I let the first set of bulls go past.

0:37:580:38:02

They were split into two herds, and I knew that there were more to come,

0:38:020:38:05

so I waited on the edge, got back in the street and, as I stepped out

0:38:050:38:10

the bull just picked me up on his head, came straight through.

0:38:100:38:13

He carried me about ten metres, dropped me on the cobbles and then fell over the top of me.

0:38:130:38:17

When you say it picked you up on your head, did you get...

0:38:170:38:20

On its head, between the horns. Luckily I was hit between the horns.

0:38:200:38:25

If I remember, that bull had gored eight people in the street

0:38:250:38:29

further back down before it got to me.

0:38:290:38:31

It was one of the worst bulls ever.

0:38:310:38:34

Obviously, I didn't know that at the time it hit me, you know?

0:38:340:38:37

-But that was it? You weren't going to do any more?

-That's enough, I've retired.

0:38:370:38:41

-But it...

-And now I have a six-year-old daughter as well

0:38:410:38:44

and she's made me promise that I won't do any more bull runs.

0:38:440:38:47

'Next to the Cafe Iruna is the equally famous Hotel La Perla.

0:38:470:38:51

'The head chef is Alex Mugica, who's reintroduced a menu

0:38:510:38:55

'from a famous former Pamplona restaurant of the '50s and '60s

0:38:550:38:59

'run by nine bourgeois sisters who regularly

0:38:590:39:03

'played host to people like Hemingway, Sinatra and even Franco.

0:39:030:39:07

'Their most popular dish was this.'

0:39:070:39:11

So this is called Rabo Estofado?

0:39:110:39:13

Yes. It's a typical dish here in Pamplona.

0:39:130:39:15

Every year in San Fermin holy days all the people come here to eat this.

0:39:150:39:21

-Really?

-Yeah. Yes.

0:39:210:39:22

'What Alex does is to dust the individual pieces of oxtail in flour

0:39:220:39:27

'before frying them off in olive oil. At the height

0:39:270:39:30

'of the San Fermin they'd be using the tails of the bulls killed in the ring.

0:39:300:39:35

'I can quite imagine Hemingway eating this.'

0:39:350:39:38

OK, Rick. Do you like to prepare this one?

0:39:380:39:42

Do you know, I've never cooked oxtail. I have to admit, never.

0:39:420:39:46

-Yeah.

-I like eating it though.

-OK. So I am going to turn...

0:39:460:39:50

'It doesn't take long for the oxtails to get a nice golden colour.

0:39:500:39:55

'He then takes them out and in another pan he fries loads of garlic.

0:39:550:40:00

'I suppose it must have been about six or seven cloves, roughly sliced.

0:40:000:40:05

'And then he adds onions, carrots and leeks.'

0:40:050:40:09

Alex, you obviously like cooking. Why do you like cooking?

0:40:090:40:13

Yeah. Because, er, it makes me very happy, is one.

0:40:130:40:17

And I am cooking since I was a child, OK?

0:40:170:40:21

Because my parents have a, er, small hotel restaurant

0:40:210:40:26

and I always, I have been in the kitchen, yeah.

0:40:260:40:31

'He softens the garlic, onions carrots and leeks

0:40:330:40:36

'until they caramelise, and now he puts in brandy.

0:40:360:40:40

'That's quite a lot, at least a double.

0:40:400:40:42

'Now some wine, Navarra wine of course,

0:40:420:40:46

'and then he gives it a stir for a couple of minutes.

0:40:460:40:48

'This is important because he has to cook out the raw alcohol.

0:40:480:40:52

'And once that's done he returns the oxtails to the saucepan

0:40:520:40:56

'and then he puts in a really well-reduced beef stock.'

0:40:560:40:59

-Now we have to cook this one very slowly.

-Yeah, OK.

0:40:590:41:04

-Very slow.

-And, Alex, could you imagine Ernest Hemingway

0:41:040:41:08

-sitting down to a plate of this?

-Yes, of course.

0:41:080:41:11

Because I know that Hemingway, er, he eat, ate a lot,

0:41:110:41:17

so I think, or I know that the Rabo de Toro,

0:41:170:41:21

this plate, he love a lot, yeah.

0:41:210:41:27

'Halfway through simmering the oxtails he takes them out

0:41:270:41:31

'and blitzes those vegetables and all that lovely stock into a thick silky gravy.

0:41:310:41:38

'This is the secret of the dish, of course - it's the enriched sauce

0:41:380:41:42

'made richer with the juices from the meat,

0:41:420:41:44

'that wonderful stock and the wine and the brandy.'

0:41:440:41:47

'It's now simmered for practically another hour

0:41:490:41:52

'and the colour gets darker and darker

0:41:520:41:54

'until it almost looks like chocolate, and then it's served.

0:41:540:41:58

'As dishes go, this is as butch as it gets.

0:41:580:42:02

'You can easily see Hemingway tucking into this.'

0:42:020:42:06

Well...this is excellent!

0:42:070:42:11

And er, excuse me, so's the wine.

0:42:110:42:14

-Where's it from, the wine?

-The wine is from Navarra.

0:42:160:42:19

From Navarra, too? Goes with this really well.

0:42:190:42:22

Thank you very much. I invite all the people to come to Pamplona to eat Rabo de toro.

0:42:220:42:26

I'm sure they will. I'm sure when the programme comes out,

0:42:260:42:29

you must get in touch with me and just say, "So many British people!"

0:42:290:42:34

-OK, this is full. Thank you.

-Cheers, Alex.

0:42:340:42:37

Ever eastwards. The sun is three times as hot now

0:42:400:42:44

as it was in damp rainy Galicia where I started my journey over a fortnight ago.

0:42:440:42:50

Navarra is blessed with an extremely fertile landscape.

0:42:500:42:54

It has the damp west wind from where I've just come from,

0:42:540:42:57

the protection of the Pyrenees to the north

0:42:570:43:00

and the warmth of the Mediterranean breezes coming from the east,

0:43:000:43:04

and to top it all, you've got the water from the mighty river Ebro.

0:43:040:43:08

And that's why the region is known as the vegetable capital of Spain.'

0:43:080:43:13

The flat land of rich alluvial soil

0:43:140:43:17

has been chopped into small plots called huertas.

0:43:170:43:21

Here, it seems anything will grow.

0:43:210:43:24

The town of Tudela is the commercial centre of this garden of Spain.

0:43:240:43:28

It was founded by the Romans and like virtually the whole of Spain,

0:43:280:43:32

once Rome fell, it was governed for centuries by the Moors.

0:43:320:43:37

It's a rare thing to see three distinctive styles of architecture nestling together,

0:43:370:43:42

separated by hundreds of years - Roman, Moorish and Christian.

0:43:420:43:48

In fact, it was the Romans who named this river the Ebro.

0:43:480:43:51

'Today, I'm meeting Floren and his wife Mercedes -

0:43:530:43:56

'vegetable growers who supply some of the top chefs in the restaurants in Spain.

0:43:560:44:01

'Chefs who really put Spain on the culinary map.'

0:44:010:44:04

Artichokes. What is it in Spanish?

0:44:040:44:06

-Alcachofa.

-Alcachofa.

-Alcachofa.

-This is beans.

0:44:060:44:11

-Oh, broad beans. I love 'em.

-Yes.

0:44:110:44:13

I just discovered you supply Ferran Adria and Juan Mari Arzak

0:44:130:44:19

-with their vegetables.

-Si.

0:44:190:44:21

So you, you're the vegetable king?

0:44:210:44:24

He start 25 years ago, so when Juan Mari is not so famous,

0:44:240:44:28

Ferran Adria is not so famous, they start too.

0:44:280:44:31

So they, all of them start together, so they grow up together.

0:44:310:44:35

-So you're all a formation of the nouvelle cucina?

-Si.

0:44:350:44:40

Floren and Mercedes had the perfect dish

0:44:400:44:43

to show off their selection of vegetables - a minestra,

0:44:430:44:47

which is like a thick soup made entirely from young vegetables.

0:44:470:44:52

There are runner beans, which take about 30 seconds to blanch,

0:44:520:44:56

and Floren chops up some borage stalks.

0:44:560:44:58

That's a new one. I've only had it in Pimm's!

0:44:580:45:01

He then blanches those, too.

0:45:010:45:03

Next he shows me how he prepares the young, freshly picked artichokes.

0:45:030:45:08

They're soft enough to be peeled and the flower part of the tip removed and then split in half.

0:45:080:45:13

These artichokes, we cook yesterday.

0:45:130:45:17

Good Lord! How come they're this sort of turquoise green?

0:45:170:45:21

-Just water and salt.

-Water and salt?!

0:45:210:45:25

Water have to be 2000 magnesium...

0:45:250:45:28

Is the word? And more.

0:45:280:45:31

-HE SPEAKS SPANISH

-And the water from here has this.

0:45:310:45:36

I don't think I can do a recipe for it!

0:45:360:45:40

It's a great colour.

0:45:400:45:42

I've got to get that, I've got to take that back to my restaurants.

0:45:420:45:46

I've never seen it.

0:45:460:45:49

Now we're going to clean the asparagus.

0:45:490:45:51

We're going to show you how we clean.

0:45:510:45:54

Like that.

0:45:540:45:56

I love gadgets. Can I just have a look?

0:45:560:45:58

-Si, of course.

-Oh, I've got to have one of those.

0:45:580:46:01

I'm surprised Floren hasn't got his name on it.

0:46:010:46:05

No. This one, the other one.

0:46:050:46:07

He's going to present to you his knife.

0:46:070:46:11

-Oh, I'm very... Wow!

-And go with you everywhere you go.

0:46:110:46:15

FLOREN SPEAKS SPANISH

0:46:150:46:17

You're going to remember us, Tudela and our vegetables.

0:46:170:46:21

THEY LAUGH

0:46:210:46:23

That's for you. Present to you.

0:46:230:46:24

He going to be your partner in your trip, so...

0:46:260:46:29

'The asparagus will take about five minutes to soften

0:46:320:46:35

'and Floren is ready to start the final part of the process.

0:46:350:46:39

'He's frying off onions, again picked a minute ago from his huerta,

0:46:390:46:44

'along with some young tender garlic stalks,

0:46:440:46:46

'and all at that stage straight out of the ground.

0:46:460:46:49

'They're mild and subtle.

0:46:490:46:52

'Now he adds flour because a minestra is quite thick.

0:46:520:46:57

'That will absorb some of the oil while it cooks out.

0:46:570:47:00

'And then for the stock.

0:47:000:47:03

'He uses a cup full of water from the asparagus

0:47:030:47:06

'and another from the electric soup.'

0:47:060:47:10

I mean, that is great. It looks a bit like something out of science fiction,

0:47:100:47:15

but I mean that will give the finished minestra

0:47:150:47:19

such a lovely green spring-like colour.

0:47:190:47:22

'Now he puts in the artichokes.

0:47:220:47:24

'The thing about this dish is that you use whatever is in season,

0:47:240:47:28

'when it's just at its tippy-top best.

0:47:280:47:31

'And I think it's a great thing to cook in an allotment - that's if you get the weather.

0:47:310:47:36

'I like these baby broad beans.

0:47:360:47:39

'Sweet and tender, they'll take seconds to soften.

0:47:390:47:42

'And now for the asparagus.

0:47:420:47:45

'The Spanish love their fat white asparagus.

0:47:450:47:49

'Look at that green now. Just the water?!

0:47:490:47:52

'I just somehow can't believe it!'

0:47:520:47:54

'Then more runner beans. One of my favourite vegetables, fresh and young.

0:47:560:48:00

'and lastly tiny peas, which Floren calls the caviar of the land.'

0:48:000:48:05

It's lovely watching this in this allotment,

0:48:050:48:08

lovely cooking outdoors, you know,

0:48:080:48:10

cos it seems right you can go and pick the artichokes or the broad beans.

0:48:100:48:14

You know, the queen of the vegetable, right?

0:48:140:48:17

King, king. Sorry!

0:48:170:48:20

Well, he have long hair, so maybe...!

0:48:200:48:23

Well, it's time for lunch,

0:48:280:48:30

and that I'm pleased to say means a glass or possibly two of wine.

0:48:300:48:34

Although not as famous as its neighbour Rioja,

0:48:340:48:37

I think the wines here in Navarra are just as good.

0:48:370:48:40

You see what I mean about this dish? It is just like a thick soup.

0:48:400:48:44

-Salud.

-Salud.

-Salud.

0:48:470:48:49

Cheers. I hope to see you next time you have your house here.

0:48:490:48:55

'Well, mi casa su casa, that's if you're ever in Padstow.'

0:48:550:49:01

So now Catalonia, and it's moments like this

0:49:120:49:15

when I realise I can't live without seeing the sea.

0:49:150:49:19

It's so important to me. I've been longing for this moment,

0:49:190:49:24

ever since we left the mountains of the Basque country.

0:49:240:49:27

This is home to the world-famous El Bulli restaurant, but I'm not going there.

0:49:270:49:32

Instead I've been invited to join Rafa and his restaurateur friends

0:49:320:49:38

a few hundred yards away in a quiet cove

0:49:380:49:42

with a heady sense of warm olive oil and garlic.

0:49:420:49:46

I must say this filming's an odd sort of thing sometimes.

0:49:470:49:51

I mean for weeks now we've been in the rain

0:49:510:49:54

and the cold of Northern Spain, trying to find a sunny day,

0:49:540:49:58

and suddenly we find ourselves here, the north of Catalonia.

0:49:580:50:02

I can remember coming through this part of Spain in the '60s

0:50:020:50:06

and it was all like this really, as, in my memory, of course.

0:50:060:50:09

But I mean, er, lovely day, nice people, lovely food, real food.

0:50:090:50:15

I'm going to see how they make salsa romesco for the first time.

0:50:150:50:18

Really looking forward to that. Happy as Larry!

0:50:180:50:22

'All the magic of this famous sauce takes place in a mortar.

0:50:220:50:27

'Crushed garlic, almonds and fried bread

0:50:270:50:30

'cooked until crisp in olive oil.

0:50:300:50:32

'And then fried livers, monkfish livers,

0:50:320:50:35

'which is really important when you use the salsa in a fish stew.

0:50:350:50:39

'That's all smashed up in the mortar.

0:50:390:50:43

'Now they tear off fresh parsley and add the fried bread.

0:50:430:50:46

'I think this is what cooking and creating flavour should be about.

0:50:460:50:50

'When I arrived I saw tomatoes on the barbecue.

0:50:500:50:54

'They're skinned and pulped most satisfyingly,

0:50:540:50:58

'and then the flesh from the roasted romesco peppers.

0:50:580:51:01

'That in all it's golden Catalan glory is a salsa romesco.

0:51:010:51:06

'Rafa, my host, starts to make another iconic Catalan dish called a fideua.

0:51:060:51:11

'Vermicelli-like pasta is toasted in a pan

0:51:110:51:15

'with oil and cloves of garlic until they become golden.

0:51:150:51:20

'Well, Catalonia has strong links to Italy.

0:51:200:51:23

'In another corner of this fisherman's house a mate of Rafa's

0:51:230:51:26

'barbecues the new season's green asparagus.

0:51:260:51:30

'And now for the all-important fish stew.

0:51:310:51:34

'Chunks of red gurnard and monkfish dusted in flour

0:51:340:51:38

'are fried in olive oil.'

0:51:380:51:39

What's really nice about this is they're all friends, they're all restaurateurs.

0:51:390:51:44

Well, I think one's got a disco, but maybe he or she cooks at the disco.

0:51:440:51:48

One of them cooks at El Bulli, which is just around the corner.

0:51:480:51:51

But what I really like about it is they're all good cooks,

0:51:510:51:54

so I'm picking up tons of stuff and I know that everything they cook

0:51:540:51:58

will be the best possible dish, so I'm very excited.

0:51:580:52:01

'Once the fish is fried and put to one side,

0:52:010:52:05

'the pan is deglazed with fish stock and then in goes some romesco paste.

0:52:050:52:10

'That's all mixed together and immediately sieved

0:52:100:52:14

'to achieve a smoother sauce for the stew.'

0:52:140:52:16

'Finally the fish goes back, and remember,

0:52:190:52:21

'they've chosen fish which Rafa refers as "duro" -

0:52:210:52:25

'that means it won't break up in the cooking.

0:52:250:52:28

'While that simmers, Rafa finishes off the fideua

0:52:280:52:31

'by ladling in fish caldo - fish stock.'

0:52:310:52:35

I've just been talking to Rafa and he's saying that dishes

0:52:350:52:39

like this, these fish dishes, originated from the fisherman.

0:52:390:52:42

I mean basically, they would just be coming home from sea,

0:52:420:52:45

got all of, sorted all their good fish for market

0:52:450:52:49

and kept all the little ones for making a stew for themselves.

0:52:490:52:52

And they'd just boil up, sometimes in sea water,

0:52:520:52:55

with whatever was available - olive oil, garlic, tomato,

0:52:550:52:58

sometimes a pinch of saffron, and that would be a dish.

0:52:580:53:01

And now they fetch big money in top restaurants.

0:53:010:53:05

OK. HE SPEAKS SPANISH

0:53:050:53:08

I think I'm right in what Rafa's just said.

0:53:080:53:10

I wondered why he was putting this newspaper on top of this pan

0:53:100:53:15

and he said it's just to scare the little vermicellis.

0:53:150:53:18

Yeah?

0:53:180:53:20

To scare them and they all come up like this, so they're all pointing upwards.

0:53:200:53:24

Maybe you put them in the dark and they're saying, "Where's the light, where's the light?"

0:53:240:53:29

-Yah, yah.

-That's right!

0:53:290:53:30

'And sure enough, as the little pasta pieces soak up the stock,

0:53:330:53:38

'they begin to point upwards,

0:53:380:53:40

'like delicate little flowers searching for sunlight.

0:53:400:53:44

'Finally it's time for lunch. Late, even by Spanish standards.

0:53:440:53:49

'The fideua is traditionally served with alioli,

0:53:490:53:52

'a fiercely garlicky mayonnaise, which works so well with the pasta

0:53:520:53:57

'that has soaked up the good fish stock.'

0:53:570:54:00

CHATTER IN SPANISH

0:54:000:54:02

Excellent! Really good.

0:54:060:54:08

Rafa's just said what's lovely about occasions like this, is not just the food,

0:54:080:54:12

it's to be here with all his friends, who love his cooking as well.

0:54:120:54:16

This is most important.

0:54:160:54:18

'After eating the fideua, it was time for the fish stew,

0:54:180:54:22

'which has been cooked with that fabulous romesco sauce,

0:54:220:54:26

'and it didn't disappoint.

0:54:260:54:28

'With great food like this, everyone got into the celebratory spirit.

0:54:280:54:33

'It may be to do with all the wine they had while making lunch,

0:54:330:54:36

'but in this part of the world, next to their love of food,

0:54:360:54:40

'it's football and their beloved Barcelona.'

0:54:400:54:44

ALL: Barca, Barca, Barca!

0:54:440:54:48

Wherever there's sun, there's celebration.

0:54:510:54:54

Further south in Catalonia, in the town of Lleida,

0:54:540:54:57

they hold the biggest snail festival I've ever seen.

0:54:570:55:01

Thousands of people travel for miles to celebrate their passion for the humble caracoles.

0:55:010:55:07

I'm very pleased that the Spanish's love of a good party

0:55:090:55:13

extends to snails, cos I love snails!

0:55:130:55:16

People either love them or absolutely hate them,

0:55:160:55:19

really in the same way as people love or hate oysters.

0:55:190:55:22

But, of course, on the sea, on the coast where I live

0:55:220:55:25

there are endless oyster festivals,

0:55:250:55:27

but great that here at Lleida there's a snail festival!

0:55:270:55:31

And this weekend they get through 12 tonnes of snails.

0:55:310:55:36

And that is so many snails, there's not enough of them in Spain

0:55:360:55:40

so they have to get them from North Africa and South America.

0:55:400:55:43

'Before I came here I'd only had snails the French way,

0:55:430:55:47

'cooked in garlic, butter and parsley,

0:55:470:55:49

'but I lost count of how many different ways they cook them over here.'

0:55:490:55:53

I'm just trying to catch up in all things Catalan

0:55:530:55:58

and doing a bit of reading and came across an author,

0:55:580:56:01

which I must confess I knew nothing about him,

0:56:010:56:04

but he's easily the most famous author certainly writing in Catalan in the 20th century,

0:56:040:56:10

but probably in Spanish as well. Josep Pla.

0:56:100:56:14

And I discovered he's really enthusiastic about food and drink.

0:56:140:56:18

He's a real, really loved old whiskies,

0:56:180:56:21

and he wrote this thing which I really like, which says,

0:56:210:56:25

"Cooking is an art which transforms things

0:56:250:56:29

"in an amiable and discreet manner"

0:56:290:56:32

which I just think is really what I think about food.

0:56:320:56:36

Also, he thought nothing of sitting down and eating 300 snails at one sitting.

0:56:360:56:42

Well, I'm just beginning to get the hang of eating these snails

0:57:050:57:09

cos you have to just twist them out of the shell

0:57:090:57:11

and then just pinch the last bit off, which is,

0:57:110:57:15

er, I mean it's not, it's not anything nasty,

0:57:150:57:19

but it just isn't as nice-tasting as the rest of the main muscle.

0:57:190:57:23

But Rafael was just saying there's going to be 12,000 people eating snails here today.

0:57:230:57:30

I mean...

0:57:300:57:31

I wonder how many you'd get in the UK? I'm not knocking the UK.

0:57:310:57:35

I mean I don't mind that people don't like snails,

0:57:350:57:39

but it just seems to me to be so wonderfully Spanish,

0:57:390:57:42

that you can get 12,000 people coming here,

0:57:420:57:45

drinking, enjoying themselves, eating snails.

0:57:450:57:49

I mean, where else in the world?

0:57:490:57:51

Isn't there something a bit special about a country

0:57:510:57:55

that 12,000 people come to eat snails together?

0:57:550:57:58

I think there is.

0:57:580:58:00

'Now this is what I like about Spain.

0:58:000:58:03

'They actually love being together in a crowd.

0:58:030:58:06

'It seems the bigger the crowd, the happier they are.

0:58:060:58:09

'Here, there are thousands of enthusiasts

0:58:090:58:12

'who don't necessarily know each other,

0:58:120:58:15

'but are united in their love for the humble snail.

0:58:150:58:19

'Salud!'

0:58:190:58:21

Next time, I meet up with a Spanish version of Ringo Starr

0:58:220:58:27

and explore the fabulous land of El Cid.

0:58:270:58:30

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0:58:420:58:46

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