Episode 3 Rick Stein's Spain


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Transcript


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I'm halfway through my scamper around Spain

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and, I must say, it gets better every day.

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The friendliness of the people, the great food

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and the sense of happiness.

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Spain is a very easy country to like.

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There's a great joy in picking things up quickly.

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I mean, I think a lot of eating and drinking

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makes you instantly very familiar

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with the customs and culture of a country.

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So, you start off apprehensive - even nervous -

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about the money and what it costs

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and whether somebody's going to rip you off,

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and then quite soon you start ordering,

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you know, ordering tapas, ordering churros, ordering beers,

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ordering sherries and you feel, yeah, I like this place,

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I LIKE this place.

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I started my journey through Spain on the Costa De La Muerte,

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the coast of death in Galicia.

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I'm using my friend's rather tired camper van.

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I was looking for a saucepan - haven't found it -

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cos I thought I'd do a bit of cooking on the journey.

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But what I did find is that my friend's left all these tins,

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presumably when he goes camping, it's what he eats.

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Sorry if I'm a bit snobbish but... Obviously, there's baked beans

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and, er, baked beans, corned beef, premium steak and kidney.

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I don't know about this,

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I would just sooner buy locally in the market.

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Baked beans, evaporated milk, Irish stew, chilli con carne...

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I travelled eastwards through the Picos mountains

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and along the north coast, a part known as Green Spain.

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A place where it rains a lot.

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I remember crossing Rioja and longing for the sun.

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But more than that, I didn't realise how important the sea is to me.

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In Catalonia, I saw my first glimpse of it and it was like,

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"Yes! This is more like it. This is the Spain I fell in love with.

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"This is the stuff of good memories."

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So, after driving for the best part of three weeks,

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I'm here in Catalonia, just north of Barcelona.

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This is part of the Costas that has escaped the Benidorm treatment.

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OK, the fishing villages have gone

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and the buildings are relatively new

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and they don't make their money catching fish any more,

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it's holiday makers, instead.

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But I remember coming here to Caldetes in the early '60s

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when I was 18 or so.

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Here, I discovered the unbridled joys - or so I thought at the time -

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of drinking cava, jugs of sangria

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and tucking into chicken roasting on a spit.

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This is a really interesting story about how restaurants really start.

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About 50 years ago, this was a garage.

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I was just looking for any signs of the petrol pumps.

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And the guy that was running the garage had a lorry driver come in one night

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and he couldn't find anywhere to eat -

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I understand that about round here.

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And he said, "Is there any chance you could give me something to eat?"

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And the guy said, "Well, I could cook you some rice and calamari,

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"that's what I'm having."

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And he did it and the lorry driver loved it so much that he told all his friends,

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told everybody. People kept coming back and saying,

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"Can we have some of that rice and calamari?" and he thought,

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"Well, if it's so good, I might as well open a restaurant." So he did.

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And, 50 years later, it's enormous, it's famous,

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it specialises in local Catalonian cooking

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and it's actually known all over the world.

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This is probably the most famous dish - it's called suquet.

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It's really Catalan and the fish is rascasse, or scorpion fish.

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Lalita, one of the owners, is basting the sauce

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made with amongst other things, almonds, pine nuts,

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fried fish liver, potatoes and sea cucumber.

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Yeah, sea cucumber - it's very popular here.

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I came here this morning to film Kita - one of the two sisters,

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they're called Pekita and Lalita - cooking for us

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but they absolutely insisted we sat down

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and had a Catalan breakfast, first.

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We couldn't say no. But not only have we got all this food,

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we've got bacalhau, we've got fried potatoes,

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we've got lentils with local chorizo.

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I think they make the chorizo themselves.

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We've got some beautiful beans that are so soft,

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and they're called judias blancas del ganxet.

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I think that's the right pronunciation and...

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..we got this local red wine.

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I mean, I wouldn't dream of drinking red wine for breakfast

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but these guys over here are knocking it back, so...

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when in Catalonia.

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Just a water, just to...water it down a bit.

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This is the dish that turned a garage into a restaurant.

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It's squid and rice and I think there's meat in it too.

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It's popular here to mix fish and meat together.

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They call it mar y muntanya - the sea and the mountains.

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I asked the two sisters, Lalita and Pekita,

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how important it was to keep these relatively old Catalan recipes alive.

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SHE SPEAKS SPANISH

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They told me how crucial it was

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for them to carry on their mother's inheritance.

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"It's traditional food that we cook," she said,

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"but the most important thing is to keep our identity alive

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"and food is our identity."

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Pekita said, "It's also a good thing to find the very best ingredients.

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"The pea season ended today

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"but now it's the very first day of the local tomato crop."

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Oh, this is a very important moment

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cos these are the first Montserrat tomatoes of the season

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and they're doing ever so well here because...

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this is the most popular dish in the whole restaurant menu -

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a salad made with these tomatoes.

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Now, I was just looking at them, looking how misshapen they are

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and just thinking, would you see those in our supermarkets?

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I don't think so!

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Well, I might be wrong. Maybe when this is shown

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there'll be supermarket shelves groaning with Montserrat tomatoes.

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But they do make a wonderful salad.

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So cut up the tomatoes like so, add salt

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and slice a white salad onion. And then, for a touch of sharpness,

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a floret or two of pickled cauliflower.

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Next for a bit of heat, pickled green chillies.

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You can get these in jars at your local supermarket.

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And then a splashing of red wine vinegar and some chopped tomato.

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The whole lot is drizzled with olive oil

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and that along with the scorpion fish

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are the choice dishes on the menu today.

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-Mmm.

-Very good.

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Oh!

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That's like the tomatoes one always dreams about in the Mediterranean.

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He just said he thinks it needs more salt.

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I was just watching all that salt going on and thinking,

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OK, salt police, it's not my fault this time!

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Just to let you know, when the king comes to Catalonia,

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he comes here for Lalita's famous suquet.

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I like this part of the Costa Brava.

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Here at Roses, everything is still very much on a human scale,

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although it was one of the first in a succession of fishing villages

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to go helter-skelter into the world of mass tourism.

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Norman Lewis - a writer I really admire,

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mainly because of his love and understanding of food -

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wrote about Spain in his book, Voices Of The Old Sea,

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about the time in the '50s

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when the first whiff of tourism started floating over the Costas.

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"The local property developer goes from strength to strength

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"with his plans for the coming of tourists,

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"determined to create for them a Spanish dreamland,

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"a setting in which the realities of poverty and work

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"were tolerated so long as they remained picturesque."

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At the time, Norman Lewis asked a fisherman what he thought about

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the coming changes and the arrival of tourism

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and he says, "How can anyone say? One thing is certain,

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"here we have always been and here, whatever happens,

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"we shall remain listening to the voices of the old sea."

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Further along the coast, is the fishing port of Palamos.

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I know about this place because it's in my seafood hall of fame.

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This is the eau Medoc of prawn fishing.

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They say it's down to the quality of the water,

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a cocktail of melted snow from the Pyrenees that runs into the salty Med,

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which creates the perfect environment for these sweet prawns

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that look as if they've been cooked already.

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I know no better way of cooking them

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than putting them onto hot sea salt for a couple of minutes.

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It keeps them sweet and moist. They fetch a fair old price here,

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unlike these tellines, a shellfish caught throughout the Med

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and one I'm particularly fond of.

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Like all good fresh seafood,

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the simplest way of cooking them is the best.

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A minute or so on an oiled plancha and wait until they open.

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And that's more or less it.

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An extra drizzle of oil and a few chopped chives

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and that, to me, is perfect holiday food.

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I've just watched Montse - short for Montserrat -

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cooking these tellines, or called telarinas in Spanish.

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And I was just thinking, cooking on a plancha, on a griddle,

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is such an easy way of cooking seafood and it is so delicious.

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Cos really as these tellines open,

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the juices are just cooked so quickly that they then coat the meat

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so you get this lovely seafood taste.

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It's really the best.

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In the resort of Blanes, I've come to meet Antonio Mia.

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He was a household name in Spain in the '60s and '70s

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because he was the Ringo Starr of a band that used to copy the Beatles.

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This is me.

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They were called Los Mustangs and they came from Barcelona.

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Now he's packed his drum kit away, his passion is food

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and he insisted on cooking me lunch, the real food of Catalonia.

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Can you get this sort of food in restaurants around here, really?

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Hmm...

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In restaurant's here, they are special.

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If they know you, they say, "Come, come, look, I have this for you."

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Something from the sea that they bring in for me.

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If you are, say you are like a tourist, they say...

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..plato comedero - take some bacon and chips.

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So, they have to know you.

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It's because they are always keep things in the kitchen.

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In the back, you know?

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So you have to have friends everywhere.

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You love your food, Antonio.

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You're making me very hungry. Can we go and cook something at your house?

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It was only a minute or so

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before a lady shopper recognised him from the old days.

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What's she saying?

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ANTONIO SINGS

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People know me but I don't know the people.

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I know, it's a problem.

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They watch TV and then they say, "Hola!"

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And I say, "Hola!" And, "Why? I don't know you!"

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-Is she talking about the Mustangs?

-The Mustangs, si, si.

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It's been a very long time

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but he still has a bit of the pop star about him.

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-What was that?

-I look pretty.

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-Are you going to pay her?

-Er...

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At their house, his partner Rosa prepares something very Catalan.

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It's what everybody eats in this part of Spain.

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The basic version is toasted bread with tomatoes, salt and olive oil.

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But she's using roasted vegetables - sweet red peppers,

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onions and aubergines - all softened and skinned.

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Then she puts in a couple of anchovies and more olive oil,

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and that with a glass of dry sherry makes a very agreeable elevenses.

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Antonio though is making something much more substantial for lunch.

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A dish from his childhood.

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So what's it called, Antonio?

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This is called faves a la Catalana - broad beans in Catalan style.

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So this is a typical Catalan country recipe, I guess.

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Absolutely typical. Typical mainly in the country

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because this is product of the farms, you know? Fresh. Even the onion.

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You know, we are using fresh onions

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because if they're fresh, the flavour is aromatic.

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-So you used to be a rock 'n' roll drummer. Why you...

-I used to.

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You used to.

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Ah...because I don't know, it's a mystery. Passion.

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I mean, cooking is an artistic thing.

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I cannot paint a nice picture but I can do something here

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full of colour. But not only colour - smell, taste, everything.

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Everybody must do that, why not?

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He bought the new season's garlic from the market that morning

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and he uses the green stem as well as the bulb.

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-Now, this is the ham bone.

-OK.

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When you finish it in the Iberican ham, we put this.

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This to me is very important because this reforms the flavour

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and gives you the old fashioned flavour, like granny used to do.

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I remember when I was child, I give this special taste, put a ham bone.

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Now, fresh broad beans, this is the centre piece of his dish.

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At the start of the season they're highly revered

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and quite rightly, I just love them and they go so well with ham

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and fatty bacon and some fresh mint.

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-So what's that, is that going in now?

-The secret, the secret.

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-And what is it?

-Er, this is Aniseed.

-Oh, yeah.

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That's a new one on me. And now chicken stock.

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-How long are you going to cook it for then?

-Er, 25, 30 minutes.

-OK.

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-I need to put pieces of paper on top.

-Uh-huh.

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And this and leave it on minimum, minimum fire - chup, chup, chup -

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for 25 minutes. 10 minutes before, we put the sausage, then finished.

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Great.

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Chup, chup, chup.

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Antonio, while we weren't looking,

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puts in a couple of thin slices of belly pork

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and now the black pudding - the morcilla -

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and he cooks it for a further 10 minutes.

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Finally it's time, thank goodness, for lunch.

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-Do you miss the band, the Mustangs?

-Sincerely, not very much.

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-Because being 40 years.

-Yeah.

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I had enough. We over-did it a little bit.

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So, no chance of a revival, going back on the road with the boys?

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Er, no, not really and also we are too old. And if we come back,

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I'm sure they will make us travel around Spain to play.

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Everybody want to hear the old songs, you know.

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And also, which kind of fans we have now? 60-year-old like this,

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"Oh, I remember when I was young! I meet my husband with your songs."

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-And...

-You won't get any younger ones?

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The Rolling Stones still get younger ones.

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-Si, si, I know, I know, but...

-Oh, that looks good.

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Now let's see.

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-And if you eat it with a little piece of this black thing.

-Oh, I will.

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Oh, that's so good! Superb, Antonio, absolutely superb.

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< Are you just saying that?

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No, I'm not just saying that. It's really good.

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Nice, tasty and natural.

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Very natural. I mean, this is a star dish. Love it.

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MUSIC: "Ob-La-Di, Ob-La-Da" by The Beatles

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Well, as the song says, life goes on

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and Antonio can invite me for lunch anytime he wants.

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He's such good news.

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One of the many delights of this trip,

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was cooking here in a converted farmhouse in Andalucia,

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surrounded by olive groves with the plumpest olives I've ever seen.

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And here, I'll be cooking dishes I've discovered on my travels

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in various restaurants and bars along the way.

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This is a great Catalan dish.

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Meatballs in a rich sauce with cuttlefish and prawns.

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I'm making the meatballs, mixing in onion, garlic, parsley,

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a touch of nutmeg, and seasoning it with salt and pepper.

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To bind it, I'm going to use some bread soaked in milk.

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So this is one of the dishes that the Catalonians call mar y muntanya,

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which just means sea and mountains, and it's just a mixture of meat -

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in this case, veal and pork meatballs -

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and cuttlefish and prawns.

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I sometimes wonder if that, to me rather coarse, term

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surf and turf originated in something like this.

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I remember the rather satisfying business of making meatballs

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even before I became a chef because in the '60s

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they used to be the obvious thing to have

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with spaghetti and tomato sauce.

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And this is quite an important process in this dish

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because I'm colouring them. They'll look better.

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I could just drop them into the sauce nearer the end

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but giving them a bit of a caramelisation

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makes the dish look much better and also I like tossing the meatballs.

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As I'm in Spain, I'm finishing this off in a cazuela,

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an earthenware dish to be found, I would guess,

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in every Spanish kitchen.

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I think earthenware imparts a certain something

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to the final flavour. Now the prawns and cuttlefish.

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I've chopped the cuttlefish into rough chunks

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and they just need to be tossed very quickly in hot oil.

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You don't want to cook them through. Season them like so.

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I think this type of dish must have originated

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simply by what people happen to have on that day.

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A little bit of fish, some meat and hey presto, put it all in one pot.

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I never thought the day would come but, actually, this is, er...

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this is a bought-in tomato sauce.

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It's actually made with just simply olive oil, garlic and onions.

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Normally, I like to make everything but it's quite a complicated dish

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and sometimes I think it's probably worth doing something like that

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just so that you will make the dish.

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If you've got to make everything from scratch

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you just say, "Oh, I don't think so."

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Now, a sprinkling of peas.

0:20:220:20:24

It would be really good to say it's the first day of the new season

0:20:240:20:29

but, alas, these are frozen. Nothing wrong with frozen, though.

0:20:290:20:33

Stir that around.

0:20:330:20:35

Next, chicken stock. Let that simmer while I make this.

0:20:350:20:39

It's something that will thicken the sauce

0:20:390:20:41

and give it a real Catalan flavour.

0:20:410:20:43

So in a mortar - again extremely common in a Spanish kitchen -

0:20:430:20:47

I start with a handful of toasted almonds.

0:20:470:20:49

Toasted because they give out more flavour.

0:20:490:20:52

And then garlic and oil to turn it into a paste.

0:20:520:20:56

Croutons come next, crisp and golden with olive oil.

0:20:560:21:00

What I'm making here is called a picada

0:21:000:21:04

and you add it at the end of a lot of savoury dishes

0:21:040:21:08

and, basically, it thickens up the sauce.

0:21:080:21:10

But it just gives it a real explosion of flavour

0:21:100:21:12

because we've got in here almonds, garlic,

0:21:120:21:15

parsley, lots of olive oil, which just goes in at the last minute,

0:21:150:21:19

as I said, thickens it and just tastes really good.

0:21:190:21:22

So, now a fist full of parsley.

0:21:220:21:24

I've noticed over here they often grate a tomato right at the end.

0:21:240:21:29

I think this is a good idea because you get this fresh acidity,

0:21:290:21:33

whereas tinned tomatoes tend to be a bit sweet.

0:21:330:21:36

Also, while I'm at it, I think the mortar and pestle

0:21:360:21:39

gets you much closer to the basics of cooking.

0:21:390:21:42

By the very process, you really feel you've achieved something special.

0:21:420:21:47

So all you need to do now is to stir that in with the meatballs,

0:21:470:21:51

cuttlefish and prawns, and cook for another 10 minutes or so

0:21:510:21:54

until the sauce is thick and the meatballs are cooked through.

0:21:540:21:58

Then serve.

0:21:580:21:59

Over here, it's a dish offered in a tapas bar, a transport cafe

0:21:590:22:03

or, indeed, a very posh restaurant.

0:22:030:22:06

And that's Spain in a cazuela.

0:22:070:22:10

I heard in that the market in Mataro was well worth a visit,

0:22:120:22:16

especially if you like fish.

0:22:160:22:19

These places are really cool inside, keeping everything fresh

0:22:190:22:23

and the displays, like this fish counter,

0:22:230:22:25

kick-start any cook's imagination.

0:22:250:22:28

What I could do with those hake steaks.

0:22:280:22:30

But I'm really looking for things...

0:22:300:22:32

I want to cook in my little camper van, I just want something...

0:22:320:22:36

I want to do a la plancha cooking, where you get a really hot griddle.

0:22:360:22:40

But I'm thinking of getting a really hot frying pan

0:22:400:22:43

and just throwing something onto it, tossing it over,

0:22:430:22:46

a bit of olive oil, some herbs maybe

0:22:460:22:48

and that's all because that's all the Spanish do.

0:22:480:22:51

The thing that, I suppose, really interests me here

0:22:510:22:54

are the gambas and the langoustine.

0:22:540:22:56

Oh, gosh, I don't know, look, there's some weever fish there.

0:22:560:23:00

They've cut out the spines cos they're really, really poisonous.

0:23:000:23:04

Red bream, tiny little shrimps there.

0:23:040:23:08

I think I'm going to go for these little langoustines.

0:23:080:23:12

They're landed as small as this in the UK

0:23:120:23:14

but they just turn them into breaded scampi.

0:23:140:23:17

Teresa, how would you cook these little langostinos?

0:23:170:23:21

SHE SPEAKS SPANISH

0:23:230:23:26

So, the simple way is just in a la plancha with salt and pepper

0:23:310:23:36

and just turn them over and dress them with a bit of olive oil.

0:23:360:23:39

But she also likes to cook them exactly the same way

0:23:390:23:41

but with a bit of Cognac as well.

0:23:410:23:43

Personally, I'll leave the Cognac out because I know these are going to be so sweet,

0:23:430:23:48

I don't want them tasting of anything else.

0:23:480:23:50

And a kilo...por favor.

0:23:500:23:54

I see they come from the mar Mediterranean

0:23:540:23:58

so, they're local. She says they're really sweet.

0:23:580:24:02

-Er, cuanto?

-Diecinueve.

0:24:020:24:05

Gracias.

0:24:060:24:07

So, now it's time to cook.

0:24:110:24:13

A perfect evening for cooking outside.

0:24:130:24:17

I must say campie's really come into her own, this evening.

0:24:170:24:22

Her own? His own? I'm not quite sure.

0:24:220:24:24

Bit like an oyster, really, campie - sometimes he, sometimes she.

0:24:240:24:28

I think she's a she tonight, cooking these langoustines,

0:24:280:24:32

because when I went into the market today and saw them

0:24:320:24:35

I just thought, "Yes! Now I can cook things."

0:24:350:24:38

Cos I do stay in hotels. I'm not staying in campie, no way!

0:24:380:24:43

But I like to cook things and I just got a frying pan

0:24:430:24:47

and made a plancha with it. I've got the pan really hot,

0:24:470:24:50

poured a tiny bit of oil in, not a lot,

0:24:500:24:54

and then threw in the langoustines, stirred them around a bit.

0:24:540:24:58

Just cook them enough to just cook them

0:24:580:25:00

and just sprinkle them with a bit of sea salt, some black pepper.

0:25:000:25:05

Took them out. Sprinkle of chopped parsley

0:25:070:25:12

which Teresa gave me in the market this morning.

0:25:120:25:15

A little bit of oil and here we go.

0:25:150:25:18

I can tell you just by the smell of them,

0:25:180:25:20

I wouldn't say they're the best langoustines I've ever eaten

0:25:200:25:23

cos, of course, they'd be in my restaurant but...

0:25:230:25:26

Oh! I wish you were here.

0:25:260:25:29

If you've been in Spain for some time

0:25:330:25:35

you're bound to have seen the festival of the Moors and the Christians.

0:25:350:25:40

This is in Lleida.

0:25:400:25:41

I think this sums up what the Spanish are about.

0:25:470:25:50

They love being in big groups with all their friends and neighbours.

0:25:500:25:53

They love celebration and they love showing off.

0:25:530:25:57

These costumes are not old curtains sewn up by your mum

0:26:080:26:11

but proper tailored jobs that cost a fortune.

0:26:110:26:16

The whole event is based on the re-conquest of Spain from the Moors.

0:26:160:26:19

Even though that happened 700 years ago,

0:26:190:26:22

it's just a mere blip in the minds of the Spanish.

0:26:220:26:25

There's a word I've heard over and over again while I've been here

0:26:250:26:29

and that is casticismo. It means the essence of being Spanish.

0:26:290:26:34

I love those lavish medieval processions, which is just as well,

0:26:380:26:42

as I'm going to the region of Valencia, the country of El Cid.

0:26:420:26:47

And, unlike Don Quixote, he really did exist.

0:26:470:26:50

Every castle has a story to tell, including this one in Morella.

0:26:540:26:59

I was on my way to a paella festival further south

0:27:020:27:06

but I couldn't resist stopping off.

0:27:060:27:08

But actually it's a bit of schoolboy escape, I suppose,

0:27:090:27:14

because, in the 1960s, there was this fabulous film called El Cid

0:27:140:27:19

and having just seen Ben-Hur,

0:27:190:27:21

Charlton Heston was the star in my firmament,

0:27:210:27:25

and El Cid was the next one.

0:27:250:27:26

They don't make films like El Cid anymore.

0:27:260:27:29

The epics, we used to call them. So, I had to come here to Morella

0:27:290:27:32

because El Cid sacked this castle up here.

0:27:320:27:36

He's seen as the Christian knight who began the process

0:27:360:27:41

which kicked the Moors out of Spain.

0:27:410:27:43

Nothing could be further from the truth, of course.

0:27:430:27:46

Most of his time he was a mercenary, a knight errant, I suppose,

0:27:460:27:51

looking back on it,

0:27:510:27:52

and he spent a lot of his time working for the Moors

0:27:520:27:55

and, in fact, I think when he sacked Morella, here,

0:27:550:27:57

he was working for the Moors. He then went on and took Valencia.

0:27:570:28:01

Open the gates!

0:28:010:28:02

They don't make them like that any more.

0:28:300:28:32

And to me, this beach near Valencia -

0:28:320:28:34

Peniscola - could never be an ordinary beach.

0:28:340:28:37

In my mind, it will always ring to the thunder of hooves

0:28:370:28:41

and the swoosh of arrows in glorious Technicolor.

0:28:410:28:44

But getting back to food, the point of my journey,

0:28:460:28:50

while I was here, I came across this simple refreshing salad

0:28:500:28:53

made with the famous Valencia oranges.

0:28:530:28:56

Something the Moors made great use of.

0:28:560:29:00

This is a combination of oranges and salt cod.

0:29:000:29:04

I'm making the dressing using fresh orange juice, sherry vinegar,

0:29:040:29:09

extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper.

0:29:090:29:12

Always like to taste my dressings and what I'm looking for here,

0:29:140:29:17

is it sweet enough with all that orange juice?

0:29:170:29:21

Can do with a tiny bit of sugar in there

0:29:210:29:23

just to reinforce the sweetness of those Valencia oranges.

0:29:230:29:27

It's a very popular salad from Valencia

0:29:270:29:30

but also popular in Andalucia.

0:29:300:29:32

What I like about it is the contrast of the orange segments

0:29:320:29:35

and the salt cod and the bitterness of the black olives.

0:29:350:29:40

Salt cod has a certain sweetness.

0:29:410:29:44

It's funny how something that was designed

0:29:440:29:47

purely as a way of preserving fish, centuries ago,

0:29:470:29:50

has imparted a flavour the Spanish can't live without.

0:29:500:29:54

Now it's red onions, black, slightly bitter olives,

0:29:540:29:57

parsley and segments of boiled egg.

0:29:570:30:00

Finally, the all important citrus dressing.

0:30:030:30:06

This is summer food and, although it's simple,

0:30:060:30:09

it's so sophisticated and, to my mind, is a real taste of Valencia.

0:30:090:30:14

And here's another one much more famous.

0:30:220:30:25

And the origins of it - of course, I'm talking about paella -

0:30:250:30:29

start in the rice fields surrounding Valencia.

0:30:290:30:32

They were another legacy of the Moors.

0:30:320:30:34

This is the first time I've ever stood in a field of rice ready for harvesting.

0:30:340:30:39

In fact, I've never tasted rice on the ear before

0:30:390:30:41

but I'm just noticing how fecund everything is. Looking around here,

0:30:410:30:45

there's crayfish, there's little tiny fish fry,

0:30:450:30:50

there's crabs over there.

0:30:500:30:51

You sort of begin to instantly understand what paella is all about.

0:30:510:30:56

It was poor people's food

0:30:560:30:57

and they added to the rice anything they could get hold of.

0:30:570:31:01

Judias beans, green beans, anything they can get out of the rice fields,

0:31:010:31:06

rabbits, chickens, that sort of thing.

0:31:060:31:09

It instantly becomes poor people's food

0:31:090:31:11

and all the more romantic for it, I think.

0:31:110:31:13

Up till the beginning of the last century

0:31:130:31:16

the rich people didn't eat rice,

0:31:160:31:18

because all these rice fields were associated with malaria, of course.

0:31:180:31:22

They were all swamp areas. So it was sort of looked down on

0:31:220:31:25

as poor people's... Not the sort of thing you ate.

0:31:250:31:29

They had bean stews like fabada from northern Spain.

0:31:290:31:33

But now, of course, to the people of Valencia, rice is everything.

0:31:330:31:37

Indeed, they say it's a way of understanding life.

0:31:370:31:40

And paella, well, it's not only the most famous dish around here

0:31:400:31:43

and in all of Spain but also it's the way the rest of the world identifies Spanish cooking.

0:31:430:31:50

This is the town of Sueca, not far from Valencia.

0:31:540:31:57

It's a centre of rice in the region, and all this dancing is the overture

0:31:570:32:02

for its annual paella competition -

0:32:020:32:05

something taken very seriously indeed.

0:32:050:32:08

I thought I knew what to expect.

0:32:080:32:10

I thought they'd be cooking lots of different paellas,

0:32:100:32:13

some with fish and seafood, some with sausage,

0:32:130:32:17

maybe some with game. But not a bit of it.

0:32:170:32:19

-Chicken, rabbit...

-Rabbit.

0:32:190:32:23

-..and vegetables from Valencia.

-Uh-huh.

0:32:230:32:26

HE SPEAKS SPANISH

0:32:260:32:28

So, what they're saying is that

0:32:310:32:34

they're all cooking with the same ingredients,

0:32:340:32:37

all 40 of the chefs here.

0:32:370:32:39

It has to be this way because it is, after all, a competition

0:32:390:32:43

and all have to cook over orange wood.

0:32:430:32:46

We think that Valencian paella is the most internationalised Spanish dish.

0:32:460:32:50

The products are produced in Valencia, mainly -

0:32:500:32:53

rice, vegetables, chicken meat, rabbit meat -

0:32:530:32:56

so it's part of our culture, part of us.

0:32:560:32:58

What I didn't realise was the point of cooking over wood fire,

0:32:580:33:03

not only because of the gentle uniform heat,

0:33:030:33:07

but also because the flavour of the wood gets into the paella.

0:33:070:33:10

I mean, that, to me, says it all.

0:33:100:33:13

So, when they're all cooked to utter perfection,

0:33:150:33:17

they go off to the judging tent.

0:33:170:33:20

What they do there is beyond me. 40 paellas all the same?

0:33:200:33:24

How do they arrive at a decision? But arrive they do.

0:33:240:33:28

The secret of what they're looking for, I'm told,

0:33:280:33:30

lies mostly in the flavour and, indeed, the colour of the rice.

0:33:300:33:35

But also the caramelized crust at the bottom of the pan.

0:33:350:33:39

This should be slightly crunchy and full of flavour.

0:33:390:33:42

I think that one might be on its way to a rosette.

0:33:420:33:45

And now for the moment of truth. This is big news here.

0:33:450:33:49

This is amazingly exciting, like the Oscars for paella.

0:33:490:33:54

I don't know anything like it back in the UK just for one dish.

0:33:540:33:58

Pasties? Cornish pasties? Nah!

0:33:580:34:00

It's time for the number one prize, the ultimato.

0:34:020:34:05

And it goes to a very popular duo - local boys from Sueca.

0:34:090:34:13

I bet their profit margin goes through the roof for the next few months.

0:34:130:34:17

But it all goes to show that pride in local food is a good thing

0:34:170:34:21

and it just makes me want to cook one.

0:34:210:34:25

Do you know, it's ages since I've cooked outdoors,

0:34:250:34:28

The last time I can remember was summer in Cornwall

0:34:280:34:31

on a windy promontory somewhere, where everything blew off the table.

0:34:310:34:35

I think that was the last day. We just thought "never again".

0:34:350:34:39

But, obviously, this is a bit different and paellas

0:34:390:34:42

or rice dishes like paella are designed to be cooked outdoors.

0:34:420:34:45

And this one - very simple, rice dish, resembling a paella

0:34:450:34:49

but my take on it.

0:34:490:34:50

Just with monkfish, a bit of saffron and some red peppers.

0:34:500:34:54

First of all, I'm going to cook the monkfish to colour it up.

0:34:540:34:57

I'm not using orange wood

0:34:580:35:00

because, knowing me, I'd probably set fire to the whole valley.

0:35:000:35:04

But the Spanish use these special portable paella cookers

0:35:040:35:08

and they work a treat.

0:35:080:35:09

Monkfish is great for this dish,

0:35:130:35:15

because, as the Spanish say, it's duro - hard or firm.

0:35:150:35:20

I've sprinkled them with pimenton -

0:35:200:35:23

great for colour, even better for flavour.

0:35:230:35:25

I'm just going to sear them on both sides and in just a minute or so

0:35:250:35:29

they turn a saffron-y gold. Very appetising.

0:35:290:35:32

That's the moment I take them out

0:35:320:35:35

and start to cook the real point of this dish and that's rice.

0:35:350:35:39

But first chopped shallots and garlic.

0:35:390:35:42

I was going to make a paella

0:35:440:35:46

but after seeing all those experts making the true paella of Valencia,

0:35:460:35:51

I thought of this.

0:35:510:35:52

I add some more pimenton

0:35:520:35:55

and also some chilli flakes for just a bit of heat.

0:35:550:35:58

Now tomato.

0:35:580:36:00

I'm taking my time over doing this little phase

0:36:000:36:03

because I'm trying to get a bit of a crust on the bottom.

0:36:030:36:06

It's called socarrat and it's a sign of a good paella.

0:36:060:36:09

This isn't a paella, it's a sort of paella without the fancy bits.

0:36:090:36:14

But what I really like in a paella is the rice and the pimenton

0:36:140:36:18

and the saffron so it's really all about that

0:36:180:36:21

with a little bit of monkfish and a few roasted red peppers.

0:36:210:36:25

I've poured in some fish stock there.

0:36:260:36:28

I made it with the bones and the head of the monkfish.

0:36:280:36:31

Now for the rice and this is the most popular one.

0:36:310:36:35

It goes by the name of bomba.

0:36:350:36:37

The grains swell up and really hold the flavour of the stock

0:36:370:36:40

without going creamy and breaking up like a risotto rice.

0:36:400:36:45

I've just added saffron powder there.

0:36:450:36:47

I think saffron powder's a mixture of saffron and natural food colour

0:36:470:36:54

and I've picked up this tip that you don't use complete saffron

0:36:540:36:58

because it's too strong. You don't want to use all saffron

0:36:580:37:01

because it gets medicinal in its flavour.

0:37:010:37:04

So a bit of yellow colour is fine.

0:37:040:37:07

Now slices of roasted and skinned red peppers.

0:37:070:37:10

They're really sweet and you can get them in tins.

0:37:100:37:14

It's funny but everything I seem to cook over here

0:37:140:37:18

is the colours of the Spanish flag.

0:37:180:37:20

You've got yellow everywhere in saffron,

0:37:200:37:22

you've got red of pimenton and you've got red of peppers,

0:37:220:37:26

you've got red of tomatoes. Yellow and red everywhere.

0:37:260:37:29

But it seems to match, don't you think?

0:37:290:37:31

This is the moment the rice starts to work its magic and swell up.

0:37:330:37:37

A Spanish lady once said to me

0:37:370:37:39

that when the rice has had a good drink he needs to sleep in the oven

0:37:390:37:43

and only then should he come out to the table.

0:37:430:37:47

Well, this rice is nearly ready

0:37:470:37:49

and it's time for the fish to go back in

0:37:490:37:52

while there's still a bit more of the stock left

0:37:520:37:54

for the rice to drink.

0:37:540:37:57

Interestingly, and I think this is really important,

0:37:570:38:00

the Spanish say you never eat paella at night.

0:38:000:38:03

And, for me, it's not an evening dish. It's too filling.

0:38:030:38:06

It's something you really look forward to at lunch time

0:38:060:38:09

with maybe a glass of COLD red wine.

0:38:090:38:12

So, it's just about there now.

0:38:120:38:15

I'm just going to turn the heat off and cover it for about five minutes,

0:38:150:38:19

just to make sure that rice is really nice and dry.

0:38:190:38:22

So there we are, the moment of truth.

0:38:230:38:26

I know it's going to be good

0:38:280:38:30

because I can hear the sticky sound of the rice

0:38:300:38:32

coming from the bottom of the pan.

0:38:320:38:35

I've never cooked it before but I'll definitely be cooking it again.

0:38:350:38:40

I add a bit of creamy and very garlicky aioli

0:38:400:38:44

which goes so well with the rice. Yeah! This will be in my top ten.

0:38:440:38:48

I'm still in the region of Valencia near Morella

0:38:560:38:59

and I've been invited to go partridge shooting.

0:38:590:39:02

Well, not exactly. They didn't offer me a gun!

0:39:020:39:06

Actually, I'm not a bad shot but I don't blame them.

0:39:060:39:09

Partridge, above any other game, is incredibly popular over here

0:39:090:39:14

and it's a food eaten, it seems, by everyone.

0:39:140:39:16

GUNFIRE

0:39:160:39:18

I've even seen it on the menu at truck stops.

0:39:180:39:21

This is my host, Jose Luis, who lives for shooting.

0:39:230:39:28

So these are red-legged partridges, we have grey in the UK.

0:39:280:39:32

These are bigger but great flavour.

0:39:320:39:34

They'll taste wonderful with all the mountain herbs.

0:39:340:39:38

I wish we could get more of them back home.

0:39:380:39:40

How important are partridges to the area, Jose Luis?

0:39:400:39:45

It's very important because it's their, er, economic...

0:39:450:39:52

economic for the lands, for hunting.

0:39:520:39:55

He says it's very important for the area

0:39:550:39:57

cos they have all these fincas, these little farms.

0:39:570:40:00

I guess that's what they were originally.

0:40:000:40:02

Like hunting lodges. So, it's a really important industry here.

0:40:020:40:06

But the great thing is that they're wild, they haven't been planted

0:40:060:40:10

like happens a lot in the UK.

0:40:100:40:13

So, they will taste fantastic and they're so beautiful, I mean...

0:40:130:40:17

You may disapprove of hunting but these are wild birds

0:40:170:40:21

and they're shot for the table.

0:40:210:40:23

I mean, I can't see anything wrong with that at all.

0:40:230:40:26

GUNFIRE

0:40:270:40:29

This is really exciting cos they're coming really fast and low

0:40:290:40:34

and they're shooting into the sun too. He's a crack shot.

0:40:340:40:37

He's really good.

0:40:370:40:38

Right in the sun. Very, very good. Wow! Fantastic.

0:40:450:40:50

And another.

0:40:510:40:53

HE SPEAKS SPANISH

0:40:580:41:00

With beans?

0:41:000:41:02

I can understand this. He likes cooking them with beans

0:41:080:41:12

but also he likes them on escabeche, which is with olive oil

0:41:120:41:16

and vinegar and that sounds really good. And so do the beans.

0:41:160:41:21

HE SPEAKS SPANISH

0:41:210:41:23

The thing about escabeche is it's a way of preserving the partridges,

0:41:300:41:35

because of the vinegar.

0:41:350:41:36

And they'll keep for up to a year just on escabeche.

0:41:360:41:40

It's an old fashioned way of preserving.

0:41:400:41:42

We had salting and smoking, they used olive oil and vinegar.

0:41:420:41:45

We've got lunch, that's good!

0:41:480:41:51

So, looking forward to it, I must say.

0:41:520:41:55

They got 56 today. Shot 56. The first day of the season.

0:41:550:41:59

-It's a bit...

-Ssshh!

-No, it's all right, they can carry on.

0:41:590:42:02

He's a bit apologetic but it seems an awful lot to me.

0:42:020:42:06

He says the wind was in the wrong direction

0:42:060:42:08

and, again being a bit apologetic, saying the dogs are a bit frisky.

0:42:080:42:12

In four or five days, they'll have settled down

0:42:120:42:15

and be just going straight for those thickets

0:42:150:42:18

where all the partridges are.

0:42:180:42:20

This is what Jose was talking about.

0:42:200:42:22

This is how they preserve the partridge.

0:42:220:42:25

And that's probably the reason why I've seen it on so many menus in Spain.

0:42:250:42:29

They're all, I wouldn't mind betting, coming out of a jar.

0:42:290:42:33

So they're put in jars with bay leaves, a couple of garlic cloves,

0:42:330:42:36

a few whole black peppercorns,

0:42:360:42:39

then a small wine glass of vinegar

0:42:390:42:42

and then topped up with good olive oil.

0:42:420:42:45

Finally, they're sealed and boiled for around an hour.

0:42:450:42:48

This means you can have partridge anytime you want.

0:42:480:42:52

Christina is going to cook lunch for the shooting party.

0:42:520:42:56

Well, this part of the dish is called judias con perdiz.

0:42:560:43:00

I just found that out.

0:43:000:43:01

And that means butter beans, those lovely tasty beans, with partridge.

0:43:010:43:05

And Christina's first of all made the escabeche and then cooked it

0:43:050:43:11

and about two or three days later she takes them and flakes the meat.

0:43:110:43:15

And then takes some olive oil and fries off some onions, red peppers

0:43:150:43:20

and green peppers and seasons that a little bit.

0:43:200:43:24

And then she's going to add tomatoes which she's skinned

0:43:240:43:27

but not deseeded. Whizzed up, so it's like a sort of passata.

0:43:270:43:31

And cooked that together for about five minutes

0:43:310:43:35

and then adds the partridge.

0:43:350:43:37

Ah, I've forgotten one important ingredient.

0:43:370:43:39

Some of the oil from making the escabeche - about 60ml, I suppose -

0:43:390:43:44

she's going to add that, put in the beans,

0:43:440:43:47

cook it for about 10 minutes and done. And then we can have lunch.

0:43:470:43:52

I'd rather hoped we were going to have roast partridge but, no,

0:43:520:43:55

the escabeche and beans is what they do here.

0:43:550:43:59

There's something very convivial about the Spanish.

0:43:590:44:02

I'm tempted to say it appears completely classless,

0:44:020:44:05

especially when you get clusters of men like this.

0:44:050:44:09

They made me really welcome.

0:44:090:44:11

Thank you for the morning's shooting, which was fabulous,

0:44:110:44:15

and have a great season. Salut!

0:44:150:44:18

It's time to drive into the very centre of Spain.

0:44:300:44:35

I'm here in La Mancha and most of the people I know that know Spain well

0:44:350:44:39

just said to me, "Keep going when you get to La Mancha."

0:44:390:44:42

It's just somewhere, unless you have to stop, just keep going.

0:44:420:44:47

But I rather like it because it's just these vast plains

0:44:470:44:51

and I think there's something rather magisterial

0:44:510:44:55

about being in open spaces.

0:44:550:44:56

And also, I think it's something that one has to experience

0:44:560:45:00

if one's really to take on board the real Spain.

0:45:000:45:03

Mainly because of Don Quixote,

0:45:030:45:05

because, of course, this is where the book was written about.

0:45:050:45:10

And what I like is, everywhere you go in La Mancha,

0:45:100:45:14

there's reference to Don Quixote as if he was a real character.

0:45:140:45:17

But to me it makes it live

0:45:170:45:19

because I've read the book and it is an essential part of Spain to me.

0:45:190:45:24

But, also, I'm quite impressed. I've only been here a day or so

0:45:240:45:28

but I've tried the wines and they're really good.

0:45:280:45:31

And when I arrived in La Mancha,

0:45:310:45:33

I kept seeing what look like giant water bottles lying everywhere

0:45:330:45:36

and I just thought that they were, you know, for irrigating the land.

0:45:360:45:39

But then I discovered that they were the old way of making wine.

0:45:390:45:43

Big, concrete vessels.

0:45:430:45:45

And it was always cooked

0:45:450:45:47

but now they've learnt to make the wines using refrigeration.

0:45:470:45:51

They're really good.

0:45:510:45:52

For years, La Mancha produced largely cooked wines

0:45:550:45:58

in those stone vats that overheated in the sun.

0:45:580:46:02

So, it tasted almost stewed.

0:46:020:46:04

Virtually all the grapes were tempranillo for red

0:46:040:46:07

and airen for white.

0:46:070:46:09

But now they're growing other varieties like cabernet sauvignon

0:46:090:46:12

which goes really well with tempranillo.

0:46:120:46:15

We're not talking about high-priced wines here

0:46:150:46:19

but good wines, worthy of anyone's consideration.

0:46:190:46:23

I've come to meet up at the Campo De Criptana vineyards

0:46:250:46:28

with someone who knows about these wines, Hymie,

0:46:280:46:32

who's a wine writer from Madrid.

0:46:320:46:34

Right now, being the largest vineyard in the world as it is,

0:46:340:46:39

it was about time that some curious people or people with passion,

0:46:390:46:46

say, "No, I'm going to make good wine here."

0:46:460:46:48

And here they have something that is unique.

0:46:480:46:51

We have all the sun that you can get.

0:46:510:46:53

You can achieve that and this has been like this for 400 years,

0:46:530:46:58

the main producer in Spain

0:46:580:47:00

It's the core of Castilla, the core of Spain

0:47:000:47:03

and the core of the Spanish wine.

0:47:030:47:05

You speak really passionately about La Mancha

0:47:050:47:08

and you obviously not only care about your wine-making

0:47:080:47:11

but also this country where you live. What does it mean to you?

0:47:110:47:16

La Mancha is dry, it's flat.

0:47:160:47:17

La Mancha's a place that is very far from the mountains,

0:47:170:47:21

very far from the sea

0:47:210:47:22

but very close to the sky. And you see we have the sky all over.

0:47:220:47:26

That's...our...main weapon.

0:47:260:47:29

We have the sky and the sun and this flatness

0:47:290:47:33

and with that possibility,

0:47:330:47:35

the only thing you have to do here as a winemaker

0:47:350:47:38

is to tame the sun and this has been like this for 400 years.

0:47:380:47:43

Hymie talks about taming the sun.

0:47:430:47:46

By that he means the pickers start at five in the morning

0:47:460:47:49

and finish before the sun reaches its height.

0:47:490:47:52

Then they'll start again when the grapes are cooler.

0:47:520:47:56

So, if you're going into a supermarket back at home

0:47:560:47:59

and you want a good deal,

0:47:590:48:00

you want something that's really good value - La Mancha every time.

0:48:000:48:05

La Mancha and Castilla.

0:48:050:48:07

One of the main problems is the drive back to the winery,

0:48:110:48:15

hoping the grapes joggling about in the trailer

0:48:150:48:18

don't start fermenting on the way.

0:48:180:48:21

Next to wine, the most important thing here is garlic.

0:48:220:48:26

This is Las Pedroneras, the centre of the garlic trade.

0:48:260:48:30

I love this statue of the little boy watching his mother plaiting the garlic,

0:48:300:48:34

an art that's dying out now, except for the Ramirez family,

0:48:340:48:38

who've been doing this for generations.

0:48:380:48:42

Agustina, their daughter,

0:48:420:48:44

is carrying on with the family tradition.

0:48:440:48:47

You need really strong hands to wrap the bulbs

0:48:480:48:51

into the tough reeds that form the plait.

0:48:510:48:54

Agustina's just been saying...

0:48:570:48:59

We asked her whether she thought

0:48:590:49:02

this sort of quite manual activity would last,

0:49:020:49:06

because you can see evidence of such things dying out everywhere, really.

0:49:060:49:10

She said she didn't know. She does it herself

0:49:100:49:13

because she so admires her father who's worked so hard

0:49:130:49:17

for so many years doing it.

0:49:170:49:19

It's almost she feels a sense of duty as a daughter to carry on.

0:49:190:49:22

But she said, "I don't know whether my son will."

0:49:220:49:25

But it's a shame, really, because actually, as I was looking at these

0:49:250:49:29

I was just thinking I've got to buy a string of that and take it home.

0:49:290:49:33

They reap the garlic in July and sew it in September.

0:49:340:49:38

This garlic is special. They call it ajo morado - purple garlic.

0:49:380:49:43

There's a bit in Don Quixote when he says to his servant, Sancho Panza,

0:49:430:49:48

"Eat neither garlic nor onion

0:49:480:49:50

"for thy smell will display the peasant in you."

0:49:500:49:54

And people have long had this idea

0:49:540:49:56

of the Spanish being, you know, massive garlic eaters.

0:49:560:50:00

Indeed, they do eat about 1.5kg of garlic a year.

0:50:000:50:04

But...we all love garlic these days

0:50:040:50:06

and we all love big cloves of garlic.

0:50:060:50:09

When I'm cooking or when my chefs are cooking,

0:50:090:50:12

if you get those tiny little cloves of garlic you just think,

0:50:120:50:15

"Oh, I can't be bothered with these."

0:50:150:50:17

And apparently, China is exporting ever more garlic.

0:50:170:50:22

But this is the sort of garlic we want.

0:50:220:50:24

This lovely sort of blush pink garlic,

0:50:240:50:27

produced by people like Jesus here.

0:50:270:50:30

It's Spanish garlic and it smells right

0:50:300:50:33

and it's got big cloves and I love it to bits.

0:50:330:50:36

So, Jesus, what does garlic mean to this part of La Mancha?

0:50:370:50:42

HE SPEAKS SPANISH

0:50:420:50:44

'Well, he's saying garlic is everything round here

0:50:490:50:52

'and it's been that way always.

0:50:520:50:55

'I don't think you really need me to translate this bit,

0:50:550:50:58

'he's so passionate, he transcends words.'

0:50:580:51:02

I didn't quite get all that but, I have to say, the way he was speaking

0:51:080:51:12

with such passion and picking up the ground, it means everything to him.

0:51:120:51:16

Do you know, on the way to see the garlic fields near Las Pedroneras,

0:51:160:51:20

I saw this roadside restaurant, Los Angeles.

0:51:200:51:24

I thought, "I bet they make fabulous garlic soup there."

0:51:240:51:29

And, lo and behold, that turned out to be the very place

0:51:290:51:32

that Jesus suggested we had lunch.

0:51:320:51:35

Angela is the owner and cook here

0:51:350:51:38

and sure enough her reputation for garlic soup in the region

0:51:380:51:41

is second to none.

0:51:410:51:43

She takes virtually a whole bulb of garlic

0:51:430:51:46

and roughly slices the cloves and starts to fry them in olive oil.

0:51:460:51:50

It's only a few seconds before she adds pimenton dulce,

0:51:500:51:54

the sweet one, for that tiny bit of fire and smokiness.

0:51:540:51:58

She also puts in pimenton picante for extra heat.

0:51:580:52:01

Many people in La Mancha look upon this soup

0:52:010:52:04

as an elixir for a healthy, long life.

0:52:040:52:07

I saw a documentary on it on Spanish TV in the hotel,

0:52:070:52:11

with lots of very fit-looking octogenarians

0:52:110:52:15

swearing it's the garlic soup that keeps them young and fit.

0:52:150:52:19

She ladles in water and chicken stock, 50/50,

0:52:190:52:22

and then drops in a couple of bay leaves that've been soaked in water.

0:52:220:52:26

Next, bread, once again using up stale bread

0:52:260:52:31

which slowly goes soft and silky in the soup.

0:52:310:52:34

And finally, she cracks in an egg, breaks it up and stirs that around,

0:52:340:52:38

so you get those lovely trails of poached egg in the soup,

0:52:380:52:42

rather like the Chinese do.

0:52:420:52:44

And to finish off,

0:52:450:52:47

a clove of ajo morado just to remind you you're in La Mancha.

0:52:470:52:52

A sprig of rosemary. Perfecto.

0:52:520:52:54

And as I thought

0:52:580:52:59

there is nothing more that needs to be said about that.

0:52:590:53:02

Another symbol of La Mancha, these fabulous fields of croci.

0:53:110:53:16

A sight for sore eyes.

0:53:160:53:19

I often wonder about the ingenuity of mankind when it comes to food.

0:53:190:53:24

Who'd of thought that the stamens of this little flower

0:53:270:53:30

could enrich the dishes of the world.

0:53:300:53:33

They call it the red gold of La Mancha

0:53:340:53:37

and the harvest takes place in October.

0:53:370:53:40

Usually, it's carved up by family groups.

0:53:400:53:43

Sometimes there'll be three generations

0:53:430:53:46

and each family would hope to get something like eight pounds of pure saffron a season.

0:53:460:53:51

That's worth its weight in gold. More, in fact.

0:53:510:53:55

The stamens are dried very gently over an ordinary domestic heater

0:53:550:54:00

and then they're ready to use in such classic dishes as fabada.

0:54:000:54:05

And where would paella be without saffron?

0:54:050:54:08

Another culinary icon of La Mancha

0:54:110:54:14

is manchego cheese, made from ewe's milk.

0:54:140:54:18

Traditionally, the cheese was eaten by the shepherds to sustain them.

0:54:230:54:27

The thing about manchego, is that it's amazingly tasty

0:54:270:54:31

and keeps for a long time.

0:54:310:54:33

Anyone from La Mancha distains elaborate accompaniments

0:54:350:54:39

with their prize cheese.

0:54:390:54:41

Only membrillo, a jelly made with quince.

0:54:410:54:45

I couldn't resist asking the chef about growing up in La Mancha

0:54:450:54:50

and what he ate as a child.

0:54:500:54:53

HE SPEAKS SPANISH

0:54:530:54:55

Basically, he said in the morning

0:54:590:55:01

they'd have slices of potatoes fried in olive oil.

0:55:010:55:06

Then, at night, it would be beans cooked with chorizo and bacon.

0:55:060:55:10

This would be on the stove gently cooking all day

0:55:100:55:13

while they were out with the sheep.

0:55:130:55:16

Oh, and wine.

0:55:160:55:17

So, to those friends who told me to give La Mancha a miss

0:55:200:55:23

and head straight down to the coast, I say unto thee,

0:55:230:55:27

I think you've got it wrong.

0:55:270:55:29

This place is utterly magical

0:55:290:55:32

and it fits the Spanish love of myths and legends.

0:55:320:55:35

With half-closed eyes, you can see why the courageous

0:55:350:55:39

but slightly mad Don Quixote thought these were giants.

0:55:390:55:43

Of course they're giants! What do you think they are? Windmills?

0:55:430:55:48

I can't think of a fictional character more important to a nation,

0:55:510:55:56

so loved and cherished and understood by all,

0:55:560:56:00

that at the very mention of his name over here,

0:56:000:56:02

a knowing, almost loving, smile appears on the face

0:56:020:56:05

of whoever you may be talking to at the time.

0:56:050:56:08

I like this.

0:56:100:56:11

This is what first greets you when you come into the inn.

0:56:110:56:14

"The sun began to usher in the morn,

0:56:140:56:16

"when Don Quixote sallied out of the inn,

0:56:160:56:19

"so well pleased, so gay and so overjoyed to find himself knighted,

0:56:190:56:25

"that he enthused the same satisfaction into his horse

0:56:250:56:28

"who seemed ready to burst his girths for joy."

0:56:280:56:31

In the book, it was the landlord of this tavern

0:56:380:56:41

who knighted Don Quixote while he was very, very drunk.

0:56:410:56:45

But the famous novel is peppered with culinary anecdotes

0:56:450:56:49

because food played an important part in the conversations

0:56:490:56:53

between the knight and his fat squire.

0:56:530:56:56

Quixote said, "while I'm eating, I know nothing,

0:56:560:56:59

"but when I've finished eating, I begin to understand."

0:56:590:57:04

One of the most famous dishes mentioned in the book

0:57:040:57:07

is pisto manchego, a dish of fried vegetables in a sauce

0:57:070:57:11

topped with a couple of fried eggs.

0:57:110:57:15

I really don't think La Mancha would be La Mancha without Don Quixote,

0:57:150:57:18

without Cervantes' enormous imagination.

0:57:180:57:22

I mean, I feel we all feel very personal about Spain.

0:57:220:57:26

I was just watching these Japanese tourists going through here.

0:57:260:57:29

Do they know that it was a work of fiction?

0:57:290:57:32

Do they know that this inn was only a fictional idea

0:57:320:57:36

of where Don Quixote received his knighthood?

0:57:360:57:41

They probably don't. I don't know. Does it matter?

0:57:410:57:44

Because, I think Spain to me - my Spain -

0:57:440:57:49

is the same sort of place as Don Quixote's Spain.

0:57:490:57:53

It's a sort of lost world of idealistic people, of innocence.

0:57:530:57:58

I mean, Don Quixote himself was gentle, was idealistic,

0:57:580:58:02

was altruistic and he was lost.

0:58:020:58:04

I mean he was mad and he was deluded

0:58:040:58:07

but somehow that has enormous strength to us all, really.

0:58:070:58:10

I think we yearn for a world where those values existed

0:58:100:58:16

and sadly it's vanishing from Spain today.

0:58:160:58:21

Next time, I follow the sun to Extremadura

0:58:240:58:27

and into the golden light of Andalucia.

0:58:270:58:31

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