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I'm halfway through my scamper around Spain | 0:00:03 | 0:00:06 | |
and, I must say, it gets better every day. | 0:00:06 | 0:00:09 | |
The friendliness of the people, the great food | 0:00:09 | 0:00:12 | |
and the sense of happiness. | 0:00:12 | 0:00:14 | |
Spain is a very easy country to like. | 0:00:14 | 0:00:18 | |
There's a great joy in picking things up quickly. | 0:00:18 | 0:00:21 | |
I mean, I think a lot of eating and drinking | 0:00:21 | 0:00:25 | |
makes you instantly very familiar | 0:00:25 | 0:00:28 | |
with the customs and culture of a country. | 0:00:28 | 0:00:32 | |
So, you start off apprehensive - even nervous - | 0:00:32 | 0:00:35 | |
about the money and what it costs | 0:00:35 | 0:00:37 | |
and whether somebody's going to rip you off, | 0:00:37 | 0:00:40 | |
and then quite soon you start ordering, | 0:00:40 | 0:00:42 | |
you know, ordering tapas, ordering churros, ordering beers, | 0:00:42 | 0:00:46 | |
ordering sherries and you feel, yeah, I like this place, | 0:00:46 | 0:00:50 | |
I LIKE this place. | 0:00:50 | 0:00:51 | |
I started my journey through Spain on the Costa De La Muerte, | 0:01:24 | 0:01:28 | |
the coast of death in Galicia. | 0:01:28 | 0:01:30 | |
I'm using my friend's rather tired camper van. | 0:01:30 | 0:01:33 | |
I was looking for a saucepan - haven't found it - | 0:01:33 | 0:01:35 | |
cos I thought I'd do a bit of cooking on the journey. | 0:01:35 | 0:01:38 | |
But what I did find is that my friend's left all these tins, | 0:01:38 | 0:01:43 | |
presumably when he goes camping, it's what he eats. | 0:01:43 | 0:01:45 | |
Sorry if I'm a bit snobbish but... Obviously, there's baked beans | 0:01:45 | 0:01:49 | |
and, er, baked beans, corned beef, premium steak and kidney. | 0:01:49 | 0:01:55 | |
I don't know about this, | 0:01:55 | 0:01:57 | |
I would just sooner buy locally in the market. | 0:01:57 | 0:01:59 | |
Baked beans, evaporated milk, Irish stew, chilli con carne... | 0:01:59 | 0:02:07 | |
I travelled eastwards through the Picos mountains | 0:02:07 | 0:02:10 | |
and along the north coast, a part known as Green Spain. | 0:02:10 | 0:02:14 | |
A place where it rains a lot. | 0:02:14 | 0:02:17 | |
I remember crossing Rioja and longing for the sun. | 0:02:19 | 0:02:23 | |
But more than that, I didn't realise how important the sea is to me. | 0:02:23 | 0:02:27 | |
In Catalonia, I saw my first glimpse of it and it was like, | 0:02:27 | 0:02:31 | |
"Yes! This is more like it. This is the Spain I fell in love with. | 0:02:31 | 0:02:34 | |
"This is the stuff of good memories." | 0:02:34 | 0:02:36 | |
So, after driving for the best part of three weeks, | 0:02:41 | 0:02:44 | |
I'm here in Catalonia, just north of Barcelona. | 0:02:44 | 0:02:48 | |
This is part of the Costas that has escaped the Benidorm treatment. | 0:02:49 | 0:02:54 | |
OK, the fishing villages have gone | 0:02:54 | 0:02:56 | |
and the buildings are relatively new | 0:02:56 | 0:02:58 | |
and they don't make their money catching fish any more, | 0:02:58 | 0:03:02 | |
it's holiday makers, instead. | 0:03:02 | 0:03:04 | |
But I remember coming here to Caldetes in the early '60s | 0:03:04 | 0:03:07 | |
when I was 18 or so. | 0:03:07 | 0:03:09 | |
Here, I discovered the unbridled joys - or so I thought at the time - | 0:03:09 | 0:03:13 | |
of drinking cava, jugs of sangria | 0:03:13 | 0:03:16 | |
and tucking into chicken roasting on a spit. | 0:03:16 | 0:03:19 | |
This is a really interesting story about how restaurants really start. | 0:03:21 | 0:03:25 | |
About 50 years ago, this was a garage. | 0:03:25 | 0:03:27 | |
I was just looking for any signs of the petrol pumps. | 0:03:27 | 0:03:31 | |
And the guy that was running the garage had a lorry driver come in one night | 0:03:31 | 0:03:35 | |
and he couldn't find anywhere to eat - | 0:03:35 | 0:03:37 | |
I understand that about round here. | 0:03:37 | 0:03:39 | |
And he said, "Is there any chance you could give me something to eat?" | 0:03:39 | 0:03:42 | |
And the guy said, "Well, I could cook you some rice and calamari, | 0:03:42 | 0:03:46 | |
"that's what I'm having." | 0:03:46 | 0:03:48 | |
And he did it and the lorry driver loved it so much that he told all his friends, | 0:03:48 | 0:03:53 | |
told everybody. People kept coming back and saying, | 0:03:53 | 0:03:56 | |
"Can we have some of that rice and calamari?" and he thought, | 0:03:56 | 0:04:00 | |
"Well, if it's so good, I might as well open a restaurant." So he did. | 0:04:00 | 0:04:05 | |
And, 50 years later, it's enormous, it's famous, | 0:04:05 | 0:04:08 | |
it specialises in local Catalonian cooking | 0:04:08 | 0:04:12 | |
and it's actually known all over the world. | 0:04:12 | 0:04:16 | |
This is probably the most famous dish - it's called suquet. | 0:04:16 | 0:04:20 | |
It's really Catalan and the fish is rascasse, or scorpion fish. | 0:04:20 | 0:04:24 | |
Lalita, one of the owners, is basting the sauce | 0:04:24 | 0:04:27 | |
made with amongst other things, almonds, pine nuts, | 0:04:27 | 0:04:30 | |
fried fish liver, potatoes and sea cucumber. | 0:04:30 | 0:04:33 | |
Yeah, sea cucumber - it's very popular here. | 0:04:33 | 0:04:38 | |
I came here this morning to film Kita - one of the two sisters, | 0:04:38 | 0:04:42 | |
they're called Pekita and Lalita - cooking for us | 0:04:42 | 0:04:44 | |
but they absolutely insisted we sat down | 0:04:44 | 0:04:47 | |
and had a Catalan breakfast, first. | 0:04:47 | 0:04:48 | |
We couldn't say no. But not only have we got all this food, | 0:04:48 | 0:04:51 | |
we've got bacalhau, we've got fried potatoes, | 0:04:51 | 0:04:54 | |
we've got lentils with local chorizo. | 0:04:54 | 0:04:56 | |
I think they make the chorizo themselves. | 0:04:56 | 0:04:59 | |
We've got some beautiful beans that are so soft, | 0:04:59 | 0:05:02 | |
and they're called judias blancas del ganxet. | 0:05:02 | 0:05:05 | |
I think that's the right pronunciation and... | 0:05:05 | 0:05:08 | |
..we got this local red wine. | 0:05:09 | 0:05:11 | |
I mean, I wouldn't dream of drinking red wine for breakfast | 0:05:11 | 0:05:14 | |
but these guys over here are knocking it back, so... | 0:05:14 | 0:05:18 | |
when in Catalonia. | 0:05:18 | 0:05:21 | |
Just a water, just to...water it down a bit. | 0:05:21 | 0:05:24 | |
This is the dish that turned a garage into a restaurant. | 0:05:26 | 0:05:28 | |
It's squid and rice and I think there's meat in it too. | 0:05:28 | 0:05:32 | |
It's popular here to mix fish and meat together. | 0:05:32 | 0:05:35 | |
They call it mar y muntanya - the sea and the mountains. | 0:05:35 | 0:05:38 | |
I asked the two sisters, Lalita and Pekita, | 0:05:38 | 0:05:41 | |
how important it was to keep these relatively old Catalan recipes alive. | 0:05:41 | 0:05:46 | |
SHE SPEAKS SPANISH | 0:05:46 | 0:05:49 | |
They told me how crucial it was | 0:05:50 | 0:05:53 | |
for them to carry on their mother's inheritance. | 0:05:53 | 0:05:55 | |
"It's traditional food that we cook," she said, | 0:05:55 | 0:05:58 | |
"but the most important thing is to keep our identity alive | 0:05:58 | 0:06:01 | |
"and food is our identity." | 0:06:01 | 0:06:04 | |
Pekita said, "It's also a good thing to find the very best ingredients. | 0:06:04 | 0:06:09 | |
"The pea season ended today | 0:06:09 | 0:06:11 | |
"but now it's the very first day of the local tomato crop." | 0:06:11 | 0:06:15 | |
Oh, this is a very important moment | 0:06:15 | 0:06:17 | |
cos these are the first Montserrat tomatoes of the season | 0:06:17 | 0:06:20 | |
and they're doing ever so well here because... | 0:06:20 | 0:06:23 | |
this is the most popular dish in the whole restaurant menu - | 0:06:23 | 0:06:27 | |
a salad made with these tomatoes. | 0:06:27 | 0:06:28 | |
Now, I was just looking at them, looking how misshapen they are | 0:06:28 | 0:06:32 | |
and just thinking, would you see those in our supermarkets? | 0:06:32 | 0:06:35 | |
I don't think so! | 0:06:35 | 0:06:37 | |
Well, I might be wrong. Maybe when this is shown | 0:06:37 | 0:06:40 | |
there'll be supermarket shelves groaning with Montserrat tomatoes. | 0:06:40 | 0:06:44 | |
But they do make a wonderful salad. | 0:06:44 | 0:06:46 | |
So cut up the tomatoes like so, add salt | 0:06:46 | 0:06:49 | |
and slice a white salad onion. And then, for a touch of sharpness, | 0:06:49 | 0:06:53 | |
a floret or two of pickled cauliflower. | 0:06:53 | 0:06:57 | |
Next for a bit of heat, pickled green chillies. | 0:06:57 | 0:07:00 | |
You can get these in jars at your local supermarket. | 0:07:00 | 0:07:04 | |
And then a splashing of red wine vinegar and some chopped tomato. | 0:07:04 | 0:07:09 | |
The whole lot is drizzled with olive oil | 0:07:10 | 0:07:13 | |
and that along with the scorpion fish | 0:07:13 | 0:07:16 | |
are the choice dishes on the menu today. | 0:07:16 | 0:07:19 | |
-Mmm. -Very good. | 0:07:22 | 0:07:25 | |
Oh! | 0:07:25 | 0:07:27 | |
That's like the tomatoes one always dreams about in the Mediterranean. | 0:07:27 | 0:07:31 | |
He just said he thinks it needs more salt. | 0:07:33 | 0:07:36 | |
I was just watching all that salt going on and thinking, | 0:07:36 | 0:07:39 | |
OK, salt police, it's not my fault this time! | 0:07:39 | 0:07:42 | |
Just to let you know, when the king comes to Catalonia, | 0:07:44 | 0:07:47 | |
he comes here for Lalita's famous suquet. | 0:07:47 | 0:07:51 | |
I like this part of the Costa Brava. | 0:07:53 | 0:07:55 | |
Here at Roses, everything is still very much on a human scale, | 0:07:55 | 0:08:00 | |
although it was one of the first in a succession of fishing villages | 0:08:00 | 0:08:04 | |
to go helter-skelter into the world of mass tourism. | 0:08:04 | 0:08:08 | |
Norman Lewis - a writer I really admire, | 0:08:08 | 0:08:11 | |
mainly because of his love and understanding of food - | 0:08:11 | 0:08:14 | |
wrote about Spain in his book, Voices Of The Old Sea, | 0:08:14 | 0:08:17 | |
about the time in the '50s | 0:08:17 | 0:08:19 | |
when the first whiff of tourism started floating over the Costas. | 0:08:19 | 0:08:23 | |
"The local property developer goes from strength to strength | 0:08:25 | 0:08:28 | |
"with his plans for the coming of tourists, | 0:08:28 | 0:08:31 | |
"determined to create for them a Spanish dreamland, | 0:08:31 | 0:08:35 | |
"a setting in which the realities of poverty and work | 0:08:35 | 0:08:41 | |
"were tolerated so long as they remained picturesque." | 0:08:41 | 0:08:45 | |
At the time, Norman Lewis asked a fisherman what he thought about | 0:08:45 | 0:08:49 | |
the coming changes and the arrival of tourism | 0:08:49 | 0:08:52 | |
and he says, "How can anyone say? One thing is certain, | 0:08:52 | 0:08:57 | |
"here we have always been and here, whatever happens, | 0:08:57 | 0:09:01 | |
"we shall remain listening to the voices of the old sea." | 0:09:01 | 0:09:06 | |
Further along the coast, is the fishing port of Palamos. | 0:09:08 | 0:09:12 | |
I know about this place because it's in my seafood hall of fame. | 0:09:12 | 0:09:16 | |
This is the eau Medoc of prawn fishing. | 0:09:16 | 0:09:20 | |
They say it's down to the quality of the water, | 0:09:20 | 0:09:23 | |
a cocktail of melted snow from the Pyrenees that runs into the salty Med, | 0:09:23 | 0:09:27 | |
which creates the perfect environment for these sweet prawns | 0:09:27 | 0:09:32 | |
that look as if they've been cooked already. | 0:09:32 | 0:09:36 | |
I know no better way of cooking them | 0:09:38 | 0:09:40 | |
than putting them onto hot sea salt for a couple of minutes. | 0:09:40 | 0:09:44 | |
It keeps them sweet and moist. They fetch a fair old price here, | 0:09:44 | 0:09:49 | |
unlike these tellines, a shellfish caught throughout the Med | 0:09:49 | 0:09:52 | |
and one I'm particularly fond of. | 0:09:52 | 0:09:55 | |
Like all good fresh seafood, | 0:09:56 | 0:09:58 | |
the simplest way of cooking them is the best. | 0:09:58 | 0:10:00 | |
A minute or so on an oiled plancha and wait until they open. | 0:10:00 | 0:10:06 | |
And that's more or less it. | 0:10:06 | 0:10:08 | |
An extra drizzle of oil and a few chopped chives | 0:10:08 | 0:10:11 | |
and that, to me, is perfect holiday food. | 0:10:11 | 0:10:15 | |
I've just watched Montse - short for Montserrat - | 0:10:16 | 0:10:20 | |
cooking these tellines, or called telarinas in Spanish. | 0:10:20 | 0:10:24 | |
And I was just thinking, cooking on a plancha, on a griddle, | 0:10:24 | 0:10:28 | |
is such an easy way of cooking seafood and it is so delicious. | 0:10:28 | 0:10:32 | |
Cos really as these tellines open, | 0:10:32 | 0:10:35 | |
the juices are just cooked so quickly that they then coat the meat | 0:10:35 | 0:10:40 | |
so you get this lovely seafood taste. | 0:10:40 | 0:10:42 | |
It's really the best. | 0:10:42 | 0:10:45 | |
In the resort of Blanes, I've come to meet Antonio Mia. | 0:10:48 | 0:10:52 | |
He was a household name in Spain in the '60s and '70s | 0:10:53 | 0:10:56 | |
because he was the Ringo Starr of a band that used to copy the Beatles. | 0:10:56 | 0:11:00 | |
This is me. | 0:11:00 | 0:11:02 | |
They were called Los Mustangs and they came from Barcelona. | 0:11:02 | 0:11:07 | |
Now he's packed his drum kit away, his passion is food | 0:11:07 | 0:11:10 | |
and he insisted on cooking me lunch, the real food of Catalonia. | 0:11:10 | 0:11:16 | |
Can you get this sort of food in restaurants around here, really? | 0:11:16 | 0:11:20 | |
Hmm... | 0:11:20 | 0:11:22 | |
In restaurant's here, they are special. | 0:11:22 | 0:11:24 | |
If they know you, they say, "Come, come, look, I have this for you." | 0:11:24 | 0:11:30 | |
Something from the sea that they bring in for me. | 0:11:30 | 0:11:34 | |
If you are, say you are like a tourist, they say... | 0:11:34 | 0:11:37 | |
..plato comedero - take some bacon and chips. | 0:11:38 | 0:11:44 | |
So, they have to know you. | 0:11:44 | 0:11:47 | |
It's because they are always keep things in the kitchen. | 0:11:47 | 0:11:50 | |
In the back, you know? | 0:11:50 | 0:11:51 | |
So you have to have friends everywhere. | 0:11:51 | 0:11:53 | |
You love your food, Antonio. | 0:11:53 | 0:11:55 | |
You're making me very hungry. Can we go and cook something at your house? | 0:11:55 | 0:12:02 | |
It was only a minute or so | 0:12:02 | 0:12:03 | |
before a lady shopper recognised him from the old days. | 0:12:03 | 0:12:08 | |
What's she saying? | 0:12:09 | 0:12:11 | |
ANTONIO SINGS | 0:12:11 | 0:12:13 | |
People know me but I don't know the people. | 0:12:21 | 0:12:24 | |
I know, it's a problem. | 0:12:24 | 0:12:25 | |
They watch TV and then they say, "Hola!" | 0:12:25 | 0:12:28 | |
And I say, "Hola!" And, "Why? I don't know you!" | 0:12:28 | 0:12:31 | |
-Is she talking about the Mustangs? -The Mustangs, si, si. | 0:12:31 | 0:12:35 | |
It's been a very long time | 0:12:35 | 0:12:38 | |
but he still has a bit of the pop star about him. | 0:12:38 | 0:12:41 | |
-What was that? -I look pretty. | 0:12:42 | 0:12:46 | |
-Are you going to pay her? -Er... | 0:12:48 | 0:12:51 | |
At their house, his partner Rosa prepares something very Catalan. | 0:12:56 | 0:13:00 | |
It's what everybody eats in this part of Spain. | 0:13:00 | 0:13:03 | |
The basic version is toasted bread with tomatoes, salt and olive oil. | 0:13:03 | 0:13:08 | |
But she's using roasted vegetables - sweet red peppers, | 0:13:08 | 0:13:12 | |
onions and aubergines - all softened and skinned. | 0:13:12 | 0:13:16 | |
Then she puts in a couple of anchovies and more olive oil, | 0:13:16 | 0:13:19 | |
and that with a glass of dry sherry makes a very agreeable elevenses. | 0:13:19 | 0:13:23 | |
Antonio though is making something much more substantial for lunch. | 0:13:27 | 0:13:31 | |
A dish from his childhood. | 0:13:31 | 0:13:35 | |
So what's it called, Antonio? | 0:13:35 | 0:13:36 | |
This is called faves a la Catalana - broad beans in Catalan style. | 0:13:36 | 0:13:43 | |
So this is a typical Catalan country recipe, I guess. | 0:13:43 | 0:13:48 | |
Absolutely typical. Typical mainly in the country | 0:13:48 | 0:13:52 | |
because this is product of the farms, you know? Fresh. Even the onion. | 0:13:52 | 0:13:58 | |
You know, we are using fresh onions | 0:13:58 | 0:14:01 | |
because if they're fresh, the flavour is aromatic. | 0:14:01 | 0:14:07 | |
-So you used to be a rock 'n' roll drummer. Why you... -I used to. | 0:14:07 | 0:14:13 | |
You used to. | 0:14:13 | 0:14:15 | |
Ah...because I don't know, it's a mystery. Passion. | 0:14:15 | 0:14:19 | |
I mean, cooking is an artistic thing. | 0:14:19 | 0:14:23 | |
I cannot paint a nice picture but I can do something here | 0:14:23 | 0:14:27 | |
full of colour. But not only colour - smell, taste, everything. | 0:14:27 | 0:14:34 | |
Everybody must do that, why not? | 0:14:34 | 0:14:37 | |
He bought the new season's garlic from the market that morning | 0:14:39 | 0:14:42 | |
and he uses the green stem as well as the bulb. | 0:14:42 | 0:14:46 | |
-Now, this is the ham bone. -OK. | 0:14:46 | 0:14:51 | |
When you finish it in the Iberican ham, we put this. | 0:14:51 | 0:14:54 | |
This to me is very important because this reforms the flavour | 0:14:54 | 0:15:00 | |
and gives you the old fashioned flavour, like granny used to do. | 0:15:00 | 0:15:05 | |
I remember when I was child, I give this special taste, put a ham bone. | 0:15:05 | 0:15:11 | |
Now, fresh broad beans, this is the centre piece of his dish. | 0:15:11 | 0:15:15 | |
At the start of the season they're highly revered | 0:15:15 | 0:15:18 | |
and quite rightly, I just love them and they go so well with ham | 0:15:18 | 0:15:23 | |
and fatty bacon and some fresh mint. | 0:15:23 | 0:15:26 | |
-So what's that, is that going in now? -The secret, the secret. | 0:15:26 | 0:15:31 | |
-And what is it? -Er, this is Aniseed. -Oh, yeah. | 0:15:31 | 0:15:33 | |
That's a new one on me. And now chicken stock. | 0:15:33 | 0:15:38 | |
-How long are you going to cook it for then? -Er, 25, 30 minutes. -OK. | 0:15:38 | 0:15:42 | |
-I need to put pieces of paper on top. -Uh-huh. | 0:15:42 | 0:15:47 | |
And this and leave it on minimum, minimum fire - chup, chup, chup - | 0:15:47 | 0:15:53 | |
for 25 minutes. 10 minutes before, we put the sausage, then finished. | 0:15:53 | 0:15:59 | |
Great. | 0:15:59 | 0:16:00 | |
Chup, chup, chup. | 0:16:00 | 0:16:02 | |
Antonio, while we weren't looking, | 0:16:02 | 0:16:04 | |
puts in a couple of thin slices of belly pork | 0:16:04 | 0:16:06 | |
and now the black pudding - the morcilla - | 0:16:06 | 0:16:08 | |
and he cooks it for a further 10 minutes. | 0:16:08 | 0:16:11 | |
Finally it's time, thank goodness, for lunch. | 0:16:11 | 0:16:15 | |
-Do you miss the band, the Mustangs? -Sincerely, not very much. | 0:16:15 | 0:16:21 | |
-Because being 40 years. -Yeah. | 0:16:21 | 0:16:23 | |
I had enough. We over-did it a little bit. | 0:16:23 | 0:16:28 | |
So, no chance of a revival, going back on the road with the boys? | 0:16:29 | 0:16:34 | |
Er, no, not really and also we are too old. And if we come back, | 0:16:34 | 0:16:40 | |
I'm sure they will make us travel around Spain to play. | 0:16:40 | 0:16:47 | |
Everybody want to hear the old songs, you know. | 0:16:47 | 0:16:51 | |
And also, which kind of fans we have now? 60-year-old like this, | 0:16:51 | 0:16:56 | |
"Oh, I remember when I was young! I meet my husband with your songs." | 0:16:56 | 0:17:02 | |
-And... -You won't get any younger ones? | 0:17:03 | 0:17:06 | |
The Rolling Stones still get younger ones. | 0:17:06 | 0:17:08 | |
-Si, si, I know, I know, but... -Oh, that looks good. | 0:17:08 | 0:17:13 | |
Now let's see. | 0:17:20 | 0:17:21 | |
-And if you eat it with a little piece of this black thing. -Oh, I will. | 0:17:21 | 0:17:24 | |
Oh, that's so good! Superb, Antonio, absolutely superb. | 0:17:24 | 0:17:31 | |
< Are you just saying that? | 0:17:31 | 0:17:33 | |
No, I'm not just saying that. It's really good. | 0:17:33 | 0:17:36 | |
Nice, tasty and natural. | 0:17:36 | 0:17:38 | |
Very natural. I mean, this is a star dish. Love it. | 0:17:38 | 0:17:43 | |
MUSIC: "Ob-La-Di, Ob-La-Da" by The Beatles | 0:17:43 | 0:17:46 | |
Well, as the song says, life goes on | 0:17:46 | 0:17:49 | |
and Antonio can invite me for lunch anytime he wants. | 0:17:49 | 0:17:52 | |
He's such good news. | 0:17:52 | 0:17:54 | |
One of the many delights of this trip, | 0:17:56 | 0:17:59 | |
was cooking here in a converted farmhouse in Andalucia, | 0:17:59 | 0:18:03 | |
surrounded by olive groves with the plumpest olives I've ever seen. | 0:18:03 | 0:18:09 | |
And here, I'll be cooking dishes I've discovered on my travels | 0:18:09 | 0:18:12 | |
in various restaurants and bars along the way. | 0:18:12 | 0:18:15 | |
This is a great Catalan dish. | 0:18:15 | 0:18:16 | |
Meatballs in a rich sauce with cuttlefish and prawns. | 0:18:16 | 0:18:21 | |
I'm making the meatballs, mixing in onion, garlic, parsley, | 0:18:21 | 0:18:25 | |
a touch of nutmeg, and seasoning it with salt and pepper. | 0:18:25 | 0:18:29 | |
To bind it, I'm going to use some bread soaked in milk. | 0:18:29 | 0:18:33 | |
So this is one of the dishes that the Catalonians call mar y muntanya, | 0:18:33 | 0:18:37 | |
which just means sea and mountains, and it's just a mixture of meat - | 0:18:37 | 0:18:41 | |
in this case, veal and pork meatballs - | 0:18:41 | 0:18:44 | |
and cuttlefish and prawns. | 0:18:44 | 0:18:46 | |
I sometimes wonder if that, to me rather coarse, term | 0:18:46 | 0:18:50 | |
surf and turf originated in something like this. | 0:18:50 | 0:18:54 | |
I remember the rather satisfying business of making meatballs | 0:18:54 | 0:18:58 | |
even before I became a chef because in the '60s | 0:18:58 | 0:19:00 | |
they used to be the obvious thing to have | 0:19:00 | 0:19:03 | |
with spaghetti and tomato sauce. | 0:19:03 | 0:19:05 | |
And this is quite an important process in this dish | 0:19:05 | 0:19:08 | |
because I'm colouring them. They'll look better. | 0:19:08 | 0:19:10 | |
I could just drop them into the sauce nearer the end | 0:19:10 | 0:19:13 | |
but giving them a bit of a caramelisation | 0:19:13 | 0:19:15 | |
makes the dish look much better and also I like tossing the meatballs. | 0:19:15 | 0:19:20 | |
As I'm in Spain, I'm finishing this off in a cazuela, | 0:19:23 | 0:19:26 | |
an earthenware dish to be found, I would guess, | 0:19:26 | 0:19:29 | |
in every Spanish kitchen. | 0:19:29 | 0:19:31 | |
I think earthenware imparts a certain something | 0:19:31 | 0:19:34 | |
to the final flavour. Now the prawns and cuttlefish. | 0:19:34 | 0:19:37 | |
I've chopped the cuttlefish into rough chunks | 0:19:37 | 0:19:40 | |
and they just need to be tossed very quickly in hot oil. | 0:19:40 | 0:19:44 | |
You don't want to cook them through. Season them like so. | 0:19:44 | 0:19:48 | |
I think this type of dish must have originated | 0:19:48 | 0:19:50 | |
simply by what people happen to have on that day. | 0:19:50 | 0:19:53 | |
A little bit of fish, some meat and hey presto, put it all in one pot. | 0:19:53 | 0:19:59 | |
I never thought the day would come but, actually, this is, er... | 0:19:59 | 0:20:02 | |
this is a bought-in tomato sauce. | 0:20:02 | 0:20:04 | |
It's actually made with just simply olive oil, garlic and onions. | 0:20:04 | 0:20:08 | |
Normally, I like to make everything but it's quite a complicated dish | 0:20:08 | 0:20:12 | |
and sometimes I think it's probably worth doing something like that | 0:20:12 | 0:20:15 | |
just so that you will make the dish. | 0:20:15 | 0:20:17 | |
If you've got to make everything from scratch | 0:20:17 | 0:20:19 | |
you just say, "Oh, I don't think so." | 0:20:19 | 0:20:22 | |
Now, a sprinkling of peas. | 0:20:22 | 0:20:24 | |
It would be really good to say it's the first day of the new season | 0:20:24 | 0:20:29 | |
but, alas, these are frozen. Nothing wrong with frozen, though. | 0:20:29 | 0:20:33 | |
Stir that around. | 0:20:33 | 0:20:35 | |
Next, chicken stock. Let that simmer while I make this. | 0:20:35 | 0:20:39 | |
It's something that will thicken the sauce | 0:20:39 | 0:20:41 | |
and give it a real Catalan flavour. | 0:20:41 | 0:20:43 | |
So in a mortar - again extremely common in a Spanish kitchen - | 0:20:43 | 0:20:47 | |
I start with a handful of toasted almonds. | 0:20:47 | 0:20:49 | |
Toasted because they give out more flavour. | 0:20:49 | 0:20:52 | |
And then garlic and oil to turn it into a paste. | 0:20:52 | 0:20:56 | |
Croutons come next, crisp and golden with olive oil. | 0:20:56 | 0:21:00 | |
What I'm making here is called a picada | 0:21:00 | 0:21:04 | |
and you add it at the end of a lot of savoury dishes | 0:21:04 | 0:21:08 | |
and, basically, it thickens up the sauce. | 0:21:08 | 0:21:10 | |
But it just gives it a real explosion of flavour | 0:21:10 | 0:21:12 | |
because we've got in here almonds, garlic, | 0:21:12 | 0:21:15 | |
parsley, lots of olive oil, which just goes in at the last minute, | 0:21:15 | 0:21:19 | |
as I said, thickens it and just tastes really good. | 0:21:19 | 0:21:22 | |
So, now a fist full of parsley. | 0:21:22 | 0:21:24 | |
I've noticed over here they often grate a tomato right at the end. | 0:21:24 | 0:21:29 | |
I think this is a good idea because you get this fresh acidity, | 0:21:29 | 0:21:33 | |
whereas tinned tomatoes tend to be a bit sweet. | 0:21:33 | 0:21:36 | |
Also, while I'm at it, I think the mortar and pestle | 0:21:36 | 0:21:39 | |
gets you much closer to the basics of cooking. | 0:21:39 | 0:21:42 | |
By the very process, you really feel you've achieved something special. | 0:21:42 | 0:21:47 | |
So all you need to do now is to stir that in with the meatballs, | 0:21:47 | 0:21:51 | |
cuttlefish and prawns, and cook for another 10 minutes or so | 0:21:51 | 0:21:54 | |
until the sauce is thick and the meatballs are cooked through. | 0:21:54 | 0:21:58 | |
Then serve. | 0:21:58 | 0:21:59 | |
Over here, it's a dish offered in a tapas bar, a transport cafe | 0:21:59 | 0:22:03 | |
or, indeed, a very posh restaurant. | 0:22:03 | 0:22:06 | |
And that's Spain in a cazuela. | 0:22:07 | 0:22:10 | |
I heard in that the market in Mataro was well worth a visit, | 0:22:12 | 0:22:16 | |
especially if you like fish. | 0:22:16 | 0:22:19 | |
These places are really cool inside, keeping everything fresh | 0:22:19 | 0:22:23 | |
and the displays, like this fish counter, | 0:22:23 | 0:22:25 | |
kick-start any cook's imagination. | 0:22:25 | 0:22:28 | |
What I could do with those hake steaks. | 0:22:28 | 0:22:30 | |
But I'm really looking for things... | 0:22:30 | 0:22:32 | |
I want to cook in my little camper van, I just want something... | 0:22:32 | 0:22:36 | |
I want to do a la plancha cooking, where you get a really hot griddle. | 0:22:36 | 0:22:40 | |
But I'm thinking of getting a really hot frying pan | 0:22:40 | 0:22:43 | |
and just throwing something onto it, tossing it over, | 0:22:43 | 0:22:46 | |
a bit of olive oil, some herbs maybe | 0:22:46 | 0:22:48 | |
and that's all because that's all the Spanish do. | 0:22:48 | 0:22:51 | |
The thing that, I suppose, really interests me here | 0:22:51 | 0:22:54 | |
are the gambas and the langoustine. | 0:22:54 | 0:22:56 | |
Oh, gosh, I don't know, look, there's some weever fish there. | 0:22:56 | 0:23:00 | |
They've cut out the spines cos they're really, really poisonous. | 0:23:00 | 0:23:04 | |
Red bream, tiny little shrimps there. | 0:23:04 | 0:23:08 | |
I think I'm going to go for these little langoustines. | 0:23:08 | 0:23:12 | |
They're landed as small as this in the UK | 0:23:12 | 0:23:14 | |
but they just turn them into breaded scampi. | 0:23:14 | 0:23:17 | |
Teresa, how would you cook these little langostinos? | 0:23:17 | 0:23:21 | |
SHE SPEAKS SPANISH | 0:23:23 | 0:23:26 | |
So, the simple way is just in a la plancha with salt and pepper | 0:23:31 | 0:23:36 | |
and just turn them over and dress them with a bit of olive oil. | 0:23:36 | 0:23:39 | |
But she also likes to cook them exactly the same way | 0:23:39 | 0:23:41 | |
but with a bit of Cognac as well. | 0:23:41 | 0:23:43 | |
Personally, I'll leave the Cognac out because I know these are going to be so sweet, | 0:23:43 | 0:23:48 | |
I don't want them tasting of anything else. | 0:23:48 | 0:23:50 | |
And a kilo...por favor. | 0:23:50 | 0:23:54 | |
I see they come from the mar Mediterranean | 0:23:54 | 0:23:58 | |
so, they're local. She says they're really sweet. | 0:23:58 | 0:24:02 | |
-Er, cuanto? -Diecinueve. | 0:24:02 | 0:24:05 | |
Gracias. | 0:24:06 | 0:24:07 | |
So, now it's time to cook. | 0:24:11 | 0:24:13 | |
A perfect evening for cooking outside. | 0:24:13 | 0:24:17 | |
I must say campie's really come into her own, this evening. | 0:24:17 | 0:24:22 | |
Her own? His own? I'm not quite sure. | 0:24:22 | 0:24:24 | |
Bit like an oyster, really, campie - sometimes he, sometimes she. | 0:24:24 | 0:24:28 | |
I think she's a she tonight, cooking these langoustines, | 0:24:28 | 0:24:32 | |
because when I went into the market today and saw them | 0:24:32 | 0:24:35 | |
I just thought, "Yes! Now I can cook things." | 0:24:35 | 0:24:38 | |
Cos I do stay in hotels. I'm not staying in campie, no way! | 0:24:38 | 0:24:43 | |
But I like to cook things and I just got a frying pan | 0:24:43 | 0:24:47 | |
and made a plancha with it. I've got the pan really hot, | 0:24:47 | 0:24:50 | |
poured a tiny bit of oil in, not a lot, | 0:24:50 | 0:24:54 | |
and then threw in the langoustines, stirred them around a bit. | 0:24:54 | 0:24:58 | |
Just cook them enough to just cook them | 0:24:58 | 0:25:00 | |
and just sprinkle them with a bit of sea salt, some black pepper. | 0:25:00 | 0:25:05 | |
Took them out. Sprinkle of chopped parsley | 0:25:07 | 0:25:12 | |
which Teresa gave me in the market this morning. | 0:25:12 | 0:25:15 | |
A little bit of oil and here we go. | 0:25:15 | 0:25:18 | |
I can tell you just by the smell of them, | 0:25:18 | 0:25:20 | |
I wouldn't say they're the best langoustines I've ever eaten | 0:25:20 | 0:25:23 | |
cos, of course, they'd be in my restaurant but... | 0:25:23 | 0:25:26 | |
Oh! I wish you were here. | 0:25:26 | 0:25:29 | |
If you've been in Spain for some time | 0:25:33 | 0:25:35 | |
you're bound to have seen the festival of the Moors and the Christians. | 0:25:35 | 0:25:40 | |
This is in Lleida. | 0:25:40 | 0:25:41 | |
I think this sums up what the Spanish are about. | 0:25:47 | 0:25:50 | |
They love being in big groups with all their friends and neighbours. | 0:25:50 | 0:25:53 | |
They love celebration and they love showing off. | 0:25:53 | 0:25:57 | |
These costumes are not old curtains sewn up by your mum | 0:26:08 | 0:26:11 | |
but proper tailored jobs that cost a fortune. | 0:26:11 | 0:26:16 | |
The whole event is based on the re-conquest of Spain from the Moors. | 0:26:16 | 0:26:19 | |
Even though that happened 700 years ago, | 0:26:19 | 0:26:22 | |
it's just a mere blip in the minds of the Spanish. | 0:26:22 | 0:26:25 | |
There's a word I've heard over and over again while I've been here | 0:26:25 | 0:26:29 | |
and that is casticismo. It means the essence of being Spanish. | 0:26:29 | 0:26:34 | |
I love those lavish medieval processions, which is just as well, | 0:26:38 | 0:26:42 | |
as I'm going to the region of Valencia, the country of El Cid. | 0:26:42 | 0:26:47 | |
And, unlike Don Quixote, he really did exist. | 0:26:47 | 0:26:50 | |
Every castle has a story to tell, including this one in Morella. | 0:26:54 | 0:26:59 | |
I was on my way to a paella festival further south | 0:27:02 | 0:27:06 | |
but I couldn't resist stopping off. | 0:27:06 | 0:27:08 | |
But actually it's a bit of schoolboy escape, I suppose, | 0:27:09 | 0:27:14 | |
because, in the 1960s, there was this fabulous film called El Cid | 0:27:14 | 0:27:19 | |
and having just seen Ben-Hur, | 0:27:19 | 0:27:21 | |
Charlton Heston was the star in my firmament, | 0:27:21 | 0:27:25 | |
and El Cid was the next one. | 0:27:25 | 0:27:26 | |
They don't make films like El Cid anymore. | 0:27:26 | 0:27:29 | |
The epics, we used to call them. So, I had to come here to Morella | 0:27:29 | 0:27:32 | |
because El Cid sacked this castle up here. | 0:27:32 | 0:27:36 | |
He's seen as the Christian knight who began the process | 0:27:36 | 0:27:41 | |
which kicked the Moors out of Spain. | 0:27:41 | 0:27:43 | |
Nothing could be further from the truth, of course. | 0:27:43 | 0:27:46 | |
Most of his time he was a mercenary, a knight errant, I suppose, | 0:27:46 | 0:27:51 | |
looking back on it, | 0:27:51 | 0:27:52 | |
and he spent a lot of his time working for the Moors | 0:27:52 | 0:27:55 | |
and, in fact, I think when he sacked Morella, here, | 0:27:55 | 0:27:57 | |
he was working for the Moors. He then went on and took Valencia. | 0:27:57 | 0:28:01 | |
Open the gates! | 0:28:01 | 0:28:02 | |
They don't make them like that any more. | 0:28:30 | 0:28:32 | |
And to me, this beach near Valencia - | 0:28:32 | 0:28:34 | |
Peniscola - could never be an ordinary beach. | 0:28:34 | 0:28:37 | |
In my mind, it will always ring to the thunder of hooves | 0:28:37 | 0:28:41 | |
and the swoosh of arrows in glorious Technicolor. | 0:28:41 | 0:28:44 | |
But getting back to food, the point of my journey, | 0:28:46 | 0:28:50 | |
while I was here, I came across this simple refreshing salad | 0:28:50 | 0:28:53 | |
made with the famous Valencia oranges. | 0:28:53 | 0:28:56 | |
Something the Moors made great use of. | 0:28:56 | 0:29:00 | |
This is a combination of oranges and salt cod. | 0:29:00 | 0:29:04 | |
I'm making the dressing using fresh orange juice, sherry vinegar, | 0:29:04 | 0:29:09 | |
extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper. | 0:29:09 | 0:29:12 | |
Always like to taste my dressings and what I'm looking for here, | 0:29:14 | 0:29:17 | |
is it sweet enough with all that orange juice? | 0:29:17 | 0:29:21 | |
Can do with a tiny bit of sugar in there | 0:29:21 | 0:29:23 | |
just to reinforce the sweetness of those Valencia oranges. | 0:29:23 | 0:29:27 | |
It's a very popular salad from Valencia | 0:29:27 | 0:29:30 | |
but also popular in Andalucia. | 0:29:30 | 0:29:32 | |
What I like about it is the contrast of the orange segments | 0:29:32 | 0:29:35 | |
and the salt cod and the bitterness of the black olives. | 0:29:35 | 0:29:40 | |
Salt cod has a certain sweetness. | 0:29:41 | 0:29:44 | |
It's funny how something that was designed | 0:29:44 | 0:29:47 | |
purely as a way of preserving fish, centuries ago, | 0:29:47 | 0:29:50 | |
has imparted a flavour the Spanish can't live without. | 0:29:50 | 0:29:54 | |
Now it's red onions, black, slightly bitter olives, | 0:29:54 | 0:29:57 | |
parsley and segments of boiled egg. | 0:29:57 | 0:30:00 | |
Finally, the all important citrus dressing. | 0:30:03 | 0:30:06 | |
This is summer food and, although it's simple, | 0:30:06 | 0:30:09 | |
it's so sophisticated and, to my mind, is a real taste of Valencia. | 0:30:09 | 0:30:14 | |
And here's another one much more famous. | 0:30:22 | 0:30:25 | |
And the origins of it - of course, I'm talking about paella - | 0:30:25 | 0:30:29 | |
start in the rice fields surrounding Valencia. | 0:30:29 | 0:30:32 | |
They were another legacy of the Moors. | 0:30:32 | 0:30:34 | |
This is the first time I've ever stood in a field of rice ready for harvesting. | 0:30:34 | 0:30:39 | |
In fact, I've never tasted rice on the ear before | 0:30:39 | 0:30:41 | |
but I'm just noticing how fecund everything is. Looking around here, | 0:30:41 | 0:30:45 | |
there's crayfish, there's little tiny fish fry, | 0:30:45 | 0:30:50 | |
there's crabs over there. | 0:30:50 | 0:30:51 | |
You sort of begin to instantly understand what paella is all about. | 0:30:51 | 0:30:56 | |
It was poor people's food | 0:30:56 | 0:30:57 | |
and they added to the rice anything they could get hold of. | 0:30:57 | 0:31:01 | |
Judias beans, green beans, anything they can get out of the rice fields, | 0:31:01 | 0:31:06 | |
rabbits, chickens, that sort of thing. | 0:31:06 | 0:31:09 | |
It instantly becomes poor people's food | 0:31:09 | 0:31:11 | |
and all the more romantic for it, I think. | 0:31:11 | 0:31:13 | |
Up till the beginning of the last century | 0:31:13 | 0:31:16 | |
the rich people didn't eat rice, | 0:31:16 | 0:31:18 | |
because all these rice fields were associated with malaria, of course. | 0:31:18 | 0:31:22 | |
They were all swamp areas. So it was sort of looked down on | 0:31:22 | 0:31:25 | |
as poor people's... Not the sort of thing you ate. | 0:31:25 | 0:31:29 | |
They had bean stews like fabada from northern Spain. | 0:31:29 | 0:31:33 | |
But now, of course, to the people of Valencia, rice is everything. | 0:31:33 | 0:31:37 | |
Indeed, they say it's a way of understanding life. | 0:31:37 | 0:31:40 | |
And paella, well, it's not only the most famous dish around here | 0:31:40 | 0:31:43 | |
and in all of Spain but also it's the way the rest of the world identifies Spanish cooking. | 0:31:43 | 0:31:50 | |
This is the town of Sueca, not far from Valencia. | 0:31:54 | 0:31:57 | |
It's a centre of rice in the region, and all this dancing is the overture | 0:31:57 | 0:32:02 | |
for its annual paella competition - | 0:32:02 | 0:32:05 | |
something taken very seriously indeed. | 0:32:05 | 0:32:08 | |
I thought I knew what to expect. | 0:32:08 | 0:32:10 | |
I thought they'd be cooking lots of different paellas, | 0:32:10 | 0:32:13 | |
some with fish and seafood, some with sausage, | 0:32:13 | 0:32:17 | |
maybe some with game. But not a bit of it. | 0:32:17 | 0:32:19 | |
-Chicken, rabbit... -Rabbit. | 0:32:19 | 0:32:23 | |
-..and vegetables from Valencia. -Uh-huh. | 0:32:23 | 0:32:26 | |
HE SPEAKS SPANISH | 0:32:26 | 0:32:28 | |
So, what they're saying is that | 0:32:31 | 0:32:34 | |
they're all cooking with the same ingredients, | 0:32:34 | 0:32:37 | |
all 40 of the chefs here. | 0:32:37 | 0:32:39 | |
It has to be this way because it is, after all, a competition | 0:32:39 | 0:32:43 | |
and all have to cook over orange wood. | 0:32:43 | 0:32:46 | |
We think that Valencian paella is the most internationalised Spanish dish. | 0:32:46 | 0:32:50 | |
The products are produced in Valencia, mainly - | 0:32:50 | 0:32:53 | |
rice, vegetables, chicken meat, rabbit meat - | 0:32:53 | 0:32:56 | |
so it's part of our culture, part of us. | 0:32:56 | 0:32:58 | |
What I didn't realise was the point of cooking over wood fire, | 0:32:58 | 0:33:03 | |
not only because of the gentle uniform heat, | 0:33:03 | 0:33:07 | |
but also because the flavour of the wood gets into the paella. | 0:33:07 | 0:33:10 | |
I mean, that, to me, says it all. | 0:33:10 | 0:33:13 | |
So, when they're all cooked to utter perfection, | 0:33:15 | 0:33:17 | |
they go off to the judging tent. | 0:33:17 | 0:33:20 | |
What they do there is beyond me. 40 paellas all the same? | 0:33:20 | 0:33:24 | |
How do they arrive at a decision? But arrive they do. | 0:33:24 | 0:33:28 | |
The secret of what they're looking for, I'm told, | 0:33:28 | 0:33:30 | |
lies mostly in the flavour and, indeed, the colour of the rice. | 0:33:30 | 0:33:35 | |
But also the caramelized crust at the bottom of the pan. | 0:33:35 | 0:33:39 | |
This should be slightly crunchy and full of flavour. | 0:33:39 | 0:33:42 | |
I think that one might be on its way to a rosette. | 0:33:42 | 0:33:45 | |
And now for the moment of truth. This is big news here. | 0:33:45 | 0:33:49 | |
This is amazingly exciting, like the Oscars for paella. | 0:33:49 | 0:33:54 | |
I don't know anything like it back in the UK just for one dish. | 0:33:54 | 0:33:58 | |
Pasties? Cornish pasties? Nah! | 0:33:58 | 0:34:00 | |
It's time for the number one prize, the ultimato. | 0:34:02 | 0:34:05 | |
And it goes to a very popular duo - local boys from Sueca. | 0:34:09 | 0:34:13 | |
I bet their profit margin goes through the roof for the next few months. | 0:34:13 | 0:34:17 | |
But it all goes to show that pride in local food is a good thing | 0:34:17 | 0:34:21 | |
and it just makes me want to cook one. | 0:34:21 | 0:34:25 | |
Do you know, it's ages since I've cooked outdoors, | 0:34:25 | 0:34:28 | |
The last time I can remember was summer in Cornwall | 0:34:28 | 0:34:31 | |
on a windy promontory somewhere, where everything blew off the table. | 0:34:31 | 0:34:35 | |
I think that was the last day. We just thought "never again". | 0:34:35 | 0:34:39 | |
But, obviously, this is a bit different and paellas | 0:34:39 | 0:34:42 | |
or rice dishes like paella are designed to be cooked outdoors. | 0:34:42 | 0:34:45 | |
And this one - very simple, rice dish, resembling a paella | 0:34:45 | 0:34:49 | |
but my take on it. | 0:34:49 | 0:34:50 | |
Just with monkfish, a bit of saffron and some red peppers. | 0:34:50 | 0:34:54 | |
First of all, I'm going to cook the monkfish to colour it up. | 0:34:54 | 0:34:57 | |
I'm not using orange wood | 0:34:58 | 0:35:00 | |
because, knowing me, I'd probably set fire to the whole valley. | 0:35:00 | 0:35:04 | |
But the Spanish use these special portable paella cookers | 0:35:04 | 0:35:08 | |
and they work a treat. | 0:35:08 | 0:35:09 | |
Monkfish is great for this dish, | 0:35:13 | 0:35:15 | |
because, as the Spanish say, it's duro - hard or firm. | 0:35:15 | 0:35:20 | |
I've sprinkled them with pimenton - | 0:35:20 | 0:35:23 | |
great for colour, even better for flavour. | 0:35:23 | 0:35:25 | |
I'm just going to sear them on both sides and in just a minute or so | 0:35:25 | 0:35:29 | |
they turn a saffron-y gold. Very appetising. | 0:35:29 | 0:35:32 | |
That's the moment I take them out | 0:35:32 | 0:35:35 | |
and start to cook the real point of this dish and that's rice. | 0:35:35 | 0:35:39 | |
But first chopped shallots and garlic. | 0:35:39 | 0:35:42 | |
I was going to make a paella | 0:35:44 | 0:35:46 | |
but after seeing all those experts making the true paella of Valencia, | 0:35:46 | 0:35:51 | |
I thought of this. | 0:35:51 | 0:35:52 | |
I add some more pimenton | 0:35:52 | 0:35:55 | |
and also some chilli flakes for just a bit of heat. | 0:35:55 | 0:35:58 | |
Now tomato. | 0:35:58 | 0:36:00 | |
I'm taking my time over doing this little phase | 0:36:00 | 0:36:03 | |
because I'm trying to get a bit of a crust on the bottom. | 0:36:03 | 0:36:06 | |
It's called socarrat and it's a sign of a good paella. | 0:36:06 | 0:36:09 | |
This isn't a paella, it's a sort of paella without the fancy bits. | 0:36:09 | 0:36:14 | |
But what I really like in a paella is the rice and the pimenton | 0:36:14 | 0:36:18 | |
and the saffron so it's really all about that | 0:36:18 | 0:36:21 | |
with a little bit of monkfish and a few roasted red peppers. | 0:36:21 | 0:36:25 | |
I've poured in some fish stock there. | 0:36:26 | 0:36:28 | |
I made it with the bones and the head of the monkfish. | 0:36:28 | 0:36:31 | |
Now for the rice and this is the most popular one. | 0:36:31 | 0:36:35 | |
It goes by the name of bomba. | 0:36:35 | 0:36:37 | |
The grains swell up and really hold the flavour of the stock | 0:36:37 | 0:36:40 | |
without going creamy and breaking up like a risotto rice. | 0:36:40 | 0:36:45 | |
I've just added saffron powder there. | 0:36:45 | 0:36:47 | |
I think saffron powder's a mixture of saffron and natural food colour | 0:36:47 | 0:36:54 | |
and I've picked up this tip that you don't use complete saffron | 0:36:54 | 0:36:58 | |
because it's too strong. You don't want to use all saffron | 0:36:58 | 0:37:01 | |
because it gets medicinal in its flavour. | 0:37:01 | 0:37:04 | |
So a bit of yellow colour is fine. | 0:37:04 | 0:37:07 | |
Now slices of roasted and skinned red peppers. | 0:37:07 | 0:37:10 | |
They're really sweet and you can get them in tins. | 0:37:10 | 0:37:14 | |
It's funny but everything I seem to cook over here | 0:37:14 | 0:37:18 | |
is the colours of the Spanish flag. | 0:37:18 | 0:37:20 | |
You've got yellow everywhere in saffron, | 0:37:20 | 0:37:22 | |
you've got red of pimenton and you've got red of peppers, | 0:37:22 | 0:37:26 | |
you've got red of tomatoes. Yellow and red everywhere. | 0:37:26 | 0:37:29 | |
But it seems to match, don't you think? | 0:37:29 | 0:37:31 | |
This is the moment the rice starts to work its magic and swell up. | 0:37:33 | 0:37:37 | |
A Spanish lady once said to me | 0:37:37 | 0:37:39 | |
that when the rice has had a good drink he needs to sleep in the oven | 0:37:39 | 0:37:43 | |
and only then should he come out to the table. | 0:37:43 | 0:37:47 | |
Well, this rice is nearly ready | 0:37:47 | 0:37:49 | |
and it's time for the fish to go back in | 0:37:49 | 0:37:52 | |
while there's still a bit more of the stock left | 0:37:52 | 0:37:54 | |
for the rice to drink. | 0:37:54 | 0:37:57 | |
Interestingly, and I think this is really important, | 0:37:57 | 0:38:00 | |
the Spanish say you never eat paella at night. | 0:38:00 | 0:38:03 | |
And, for me, it's not an evening dish. It's too filling. | 0:38:03 | 0:38:06 | |
It's something you really look forward to at lunch time | 0:38:06 | 0:38:09 | |
with maybe a glass of COLD red wine. | 0:38:09 | 0:38:12 | |
So, it's just about there now. | 0:38:12 | 0:38:15 | |
I'm just going to turn the heat off and cover it for about five minutes, | 0:38:15 | 0:38:19 | |
just to make sure that rice is really nice and dry. | 0:38:19 | 0:38:22 | |
So there we are, the moment of truth. | 0:38:23 | 0:38:26 | |
I know it's going to be good | 0:38:28 | 0:38:30 | |
because I can hear the sticky sound of the rice | 0:38:30 | 0:38:32 | |
coming from the bottom of the pan. | 0:38:32 | 0:38:35 | |
I've never cooked it before but I'll definitely be cooking it again. | 0:38:35 | 0:38:40 | |
I add a bit of creamy and very garlicky aioli | 0:38:40 | 0:38:44 | |
which goes so well with the rice. Yeah! This will be in my top ten. | 0:38:44 | 0:38:48 | |
I'm still in the region of Valencia near Morella | 0:38:56 | 0:38:59 | |
and I've been invited to go partridge shooting. | 0:38:59 | 0:39:02 | |
Well, not exactly. They didn't offer me a gun! | 0:39:02 | 0:39:06 | |
Actually, I'm not a bad shot but I don't blame them. | 0:39:06 | 0:39:09 | |
Partridge, above any other game, is incredibly popular over here | 0:39:09 | 0:39:14 | |
and it's a food eaten, it seems, by everyone. | 0:39:14 | 0:39:16 | |
GUNFIRE | 0:39:16 | 0:39:18 | |
I've even seen it on the menu at truck stops. | 0:39:18 | 0:39:21 | |
This is my host, Jose Luis, who lives for shooting. | 0:39:23 | 0:39:28 | |
So these are red-legged partridges, we have grey in the UK. | 0:39:28 | 0:39:32 | |
These are bigger but great flavour. | 0:39:32 | 0:39:34 | |
They'll taste wonderful with all the mountain herbs. | 0:39:34 | 0:39:38 | |
I wish we could get more of them back home. | 0:39:38 | 0:39:40 | |
How important are partridges to the area, Jose Luis? | 0:39:40 | 0:39:45 | |
It's very important because it's their, er, economic... | 0:39:45 | 0:39:52 | |
economic for the lands, for hunting. | 0:39:52 | 0:39:55 | |
He says it's very important for the area | 0:39:55 | 0:39:57 | |
cos they have all these fincas, these little farms. | 0:39:57 | 0:40:00 | |
I guess that's what they were originally. | 0:40:00 | 0:40:02 | |
Like hunting lodges. So, it's a really important industry here. | 0:40:02 | 0:40:06 | |
But the great thing is that they're wild, they haven't been planted | 0:40:06 | 0:40:10 | |
like happens a lot in the UK. | 0:40:10 | 0:40:13 | |
So, they will taste fantastic and they're so beautiful, I mean... | 0:40:13 | 0:40:17 | |
You may disapprove of hunting but these are wild birds | 0:40:17 | 0:40:21 | |
and they're shot for the table. | 0:40:21 | 0:40:23 | |
I mean, I can't see anything wrong with that at all. | 0:40:23 | 0:40:26 | |
GUNFIRE | 0:40:27 | 0:40:29 | |
This is really exciting cos they're coming really fast and low | 0:40:29 | 0:40:34 | |
and they're shooting into the sun too. He's a crack shot. | 0:40:34 | 0:40:37 | |
He's really good. | 0:40:37 | 0:40:38 | |
Right in the sun. Very, very good. Wow! Fantastic. | 0:40:45 | 0:40:50 | |
And another. | 0:40:51 | 0:40:53 | |
HE SPEAKS SPANISH | 0:40:58 | 0:41:00 | |
With beans? | 0:41:00 | 0:41:02 | |
I can understand this. He likes cooking them with beans | 0:41:08 | 0:41:12 | |
but also he likes them on escabeche, which is with olive oil | 0:41:12 | 0:41:16 | |
and vinegar and that sounds really good. And so do the beans. | 0:41:16 | 0:41:21 | |
HE SPEAKS SPANISH | 0:41:21 | 0:41:23 | |
The thing about escabeche is it's a way of preserving the partridges, | 0:41:30 | 0:41:35 | |
because of the vinegar. | 0:41:35 | 0:41:36 | |
And they'll keep for up to a year just on escabeche. | 0:41:36 | 0:41:40 | |
It's an old fashioned way of preserving. | 0:41:40 | 0:41:42 | |
We had salting and smoking, they used olive oil and vinegar. | 0:41:42 | 0:41:45 | |
We've got lunch, that's good! | 0:41:48 | 0:41:51 | |
So, looking forward to it, I must say. | 0:41:52 | 0:41:55 | |
They got 56 today. Shot 56. The first day of the season. | 0:41:55 | 0:41:59 | |
-It's a bit... -Ssshh! -No, it's all right, they can carry on. | 0:41:59 | 0:42:02 | |
He's a bit apologetic but it seems an awful lot to me. | 0:42:02 | 0:42:06 | |
He says the wind was in the wrong direction | 0:42:06 | 0:42:08 | |
and, again being a bit apologetic, saying the dogs are a bit frisky. | 0:42:08 | 0:42:12 | |
In four or five days, they'll have settled down | 0:42:12 | 0:42:15 | |
and be just going straight for those thickets | 0:42:15 | 0:42:18 | |
where all the partridges are. | 0:42:18 | 0:42:20 | |
This is what Jose was talking about. | 0:42:20 | 0:42:22 | |
This is how they preserve the partridge. | 0:42:22 | 0:42:25 | |
And that's probably the reason why I've seen it on so many menus in Spain. | 0:42:25 | 0:42:29 | |
They're all, I wouldn't mind betting, coming out of a jar. | 0:42:29 | 0:42:33 | |
So they're put in jars with bay leaves, a couple of garlic cloves, | 0:42:33 | 0:42:36 | |
a few whole black peppercorns, | 0:42:36 | 0:42:39 | |
then a small wine glass of vinegar | 0:42:39 | 0:42:42 | |
and then topped up with good olive oil. | 0:42:42 | 0:42:45 | |
Finally, they're sealed and boiled for around an hour. | 0:42:45 | 0:42:48 | |
This means you can have partridge anytime you want. | 0:42:48 | 0:42:52 | |
Christina is going to cook lunch for the shooting party. | 0:42:52 | 0:42:56 | |
Well, this part of the dish is called judias con perdiz. | 0:42:56 | 0:43:00 | |
I just found that out. | 0:43:00 | 0:43:01 | |
And that means butter beans, those lovely tasty beans, with partridge. | 0:43:01 | 0:43:05 | |
And Christina's first of all made the escabeche and then cooked it | 0:43:05 | 0:43:11 | |
and about two or three days later she takes them and flakes the meat. | 0:43:11 | 0:43:15 | |
And then takes some olive oil and fries off some onions, red peppers | 0:43:15 | 0:43:20 | |
and green peppers and seasons that a little bit. | 0:43:20 | 0:43:24 | |
And then she's going to add tomatoes which she's skinned | 0:43:24 | 0:43:27 | |
but not deseeded. Whizzed up, so it's like a sort of passata. | 0:43:27 | 0:43:31 | |
And cooked that together for about five minutes | 0:43:31 | 0:43:35 | |
and then adds the partridge. | 0:43:35 | 0:43:37 | |
Ah, I've forgotten one important ingredient. | 0:43:37 | 0:43:39 | |
Some of the oil from making the escabeche - about 60ml, I suppose - | 0:43:39 | 0:43:44 | |
she's going to add that, put in the beans, | 0:43:44 | 0:43:47 | |
cook it for about 10 minutes and done. And then we can have lunch. | 0:43:47 | 0:43:52 | |
I'd rather hoped we were going to have roast partridge but, no, | 0:43:52 | 0:43:55 | |
the escabeche and beans is what they do here. | 0:43:55 | 0:43:59 | |
There's something very convivial about the Spanish. | 0:43:59 | 0:44:02 | |
I'm tempted to say it appears completely classless, | 0:44:02 | 0:44:05 | |
especially when you get clusters of men like this. | 0:44:05 | 0:44:09 | |
They made me really welcome. | 0:44:09 | 0:44:11 | |
Thank you for the morning's shooting, which was fabulous, | 0:44:11 | 0:44:15 | |
and have a great season. Salut! | 0:44:15 | 0:44:18 | |
It's time to drive into the very centre of Spain. | 0:44:30 | 0:44:35 | |
I'm here in La Mancha and most of the people I know that know Spain well | 0:44:35 | 0:44:39 | |
just said to me, "Keep going when you get to La Mancha." | 0:44:39 | 0:44:42 | |
It's just somewhere, unless you have to stop, just keep going. | 0:44:42 | 0:44:47 | |
But I rather like it because it's just these vast plains | 0:44:47 | 0:44:51 | |
and I think there's something rather magisterial | 0:44:51 | 0:44:55 | |
about being in open spaces. | 0:44:55 | 0:44:56 | |
And also, I think it's something that one has to experience | 0:44:56 | 0:45:00 | |
if one's really to take on board the real Spain. | 0:45:00 | 0:45:03 | |
Mainly because of Don Quixote, | 0:45:03 | 0:45:05 | |
because, of course, this is where the book was written about. | 0:45:05 | 0:45:10 | |
And what I like is, everywhere you go in La Mancha, | 0:45:10 | 0:45:14 | |
there's reference to Don Quixote as if he was a real character. | 0:45:14 | 0:45:17 | |
But to me it makes it live | 0:45:17 | 0:45:19 | |
because I've read the book and it is an essential part of Spain to me. | 0:45:19 | 0:45:24 | |
But, also, I'm quite impressed. I've only been here a day or so | 0:45:24 | 0:45:28 | |
but I've tried the wines and they're really good. | 0:45:28 | 0:45:31 | |
And when I arrived in La Mancha, | 0:45:31 | 0:45:33 | |
I kept seeing what look like giant water bottles lying everywhere | 0:45:33 | 0:45:36 | |
and I just thought that they were, you know, for irrigating the land. | 0:45:36 | 0:45:39 | |
But then I discovered that they were the old way of making wine. | 0:45:39 | 0:45:43 | |
Big, concrete vessels. | 0:45:43 | 0:45:45 | |
And it was always cooked | 0:45:45 | 0:45:47 | |
but now they've learnt to make the wines using refrigeration. | 0:45:47 | 0:45:51 | |
They're really good. | 0:45:51 | 0:45:52 | |
For years, La Mancha produced largely cooked wines | 0:45:55 | 0:45:58 | |
in those stone vats that overheated in the sun. | 0:45:58 | 0:46:02 | |
So, it tasted almost stewed. | 0:46:02 | 0:46:04 | |
Virtually all the grapes were tempranillo for red | 0:46:04 | 0:46:07 | |
and airen for white. | 0:46:07 | 0:46:09 | |
But now they're growing other varieties like cabernet sauvignon | 0:46:09 | 0:46:12 | |
which goes really well with tempranillo. | 0:46:12 | 0:46:15 | |
We're not talking about high-priced wines here | 0:46:15 | 0:46:19 | |
but good wines, worthy of anyone's consideration. | 0:46:19 | 0:46:23 | |
I've come to meet up at the Campo De Criptana vineyards | 0:46:25 | 0:46:28 | |
with someone who knows about these wines, Hymie, | 0:46:28 | 0:46:32 | |
who's a wine writer from Madrid. | 0:46:32 | 0:46:34 | |
Right now, being the largest vineyard in the world as it is, | 0:46:34 | 0:46:39 | |
it was about time that some curious people or people with passion, | 0:46:39 | 0:46:46 | |
say, "No, I'm going to make good wine here." | 0:46:46 | 0:46:48 | |
And here they have something that is unique. | 0:46:48 | 0:46:51 | |
We have all the sun that you can get. | 0:46:51 | 0:46:53 | |
You can achieve that and this has been like this for 400 years, | 0:46:53 | 0:46:58 | |
the main producer in Spain | 0:46:58 | 0:47:00 | |
It's the core of Castilla, the core of Spain | 0:47:00 | 0:47:03 | |
and the core of the Spanish wine. | 0:47:03 | 0:47:05 | |
You speak really passionately about La Mancha | 0:47:05 | 0:47:08 | |
and you obviously not only care about your wine-making | 0:47:08 | 0:47:11 | |
but also this country where you live. What does it mean to you? | 0:47:11 | 0:47:16 | |
La Mancha is dry, it's flat. | 0:47:16 | 0:47:17 | |
La Mancha's a place that is very far from the mountains, | 0:47:17 | 0:47:21 | |
very far from the sea | 0:47:21 | 0:47:22 | |
but very close to the sky. And you see we have the sky all over. | 0:47:22 | 0:47:26 | |
That's...our...main weapon. | 0:47:26 | 0:47:29 | |
We have the sky and the sun and this flatness | 0:47:29 | 0:47:33 | |
and with that possibility, | 0:47:33 | 0:47:35 | |
the only thing you have to do here as a winemaker | 0:47:35 | 0:47:38 | |
is to tame the sun and this has been like this for 400 years. | 0:47:38 | 0:47:43 | |
Hymie talks about taming the sun. | 0:47:43 | 0:47:46 | |
By that he means the pickers start at five in the morning | 0:47:46 | 0:47:49 | |
and finish before the sun reaches its height. | 0:47:49 | 0:47:52 | |
Then they'll start again when the grapes are cooler. | 0:47:52 | 0:47:56 | |
So, if you're going into a supermarket back at home | 0:47:56 | 0:47:59 | |
and you want a good deal, | 0:47:59 | 0:48:00 | |
you want something that's really good value - La Mancha every time. | 0:48:00 | 0:48:05 | |
La Mancha and Castilla. | 0:48:05 | 0:48:07 | |
One of the main problems is the drive back to the winery, | 0:48:11 | 0:48:15 | |
hoping the grapes joggling about in the trailer | 0:48:15 | 0:48:18 | |
don't start fermenting on the way. | 0:48:18 | 0:48:21 | |
Next to wine, the most important thing here is garlic. | 0:48:22 | 0:48:26 | |
This is Las Pedroneras, the centre of the garlic trade. | 0:48:26 | 0:48:30 | |
I love this statue of the little boy watching his mother plaiting the garlic, | 0:48:30 | 0:48:34 | |
an art that's dying out now, except for the Ramirez family, | 0:48:34 | 0:48:38 | |
who've been doing this for generations. | 0:48:38 | 0:48:42 | |
Agustina, their daughter, | 0:48:42 | 0:48:44 | |
is carrying on with the family tradition. | 0:48:44 | 0:48:47 | |
You need really strong hands to wrap the bulbs | 0:48:48 | 0:48:51 | |
into the tough reeds that form the plait. | 0:48:51 | 0:48:54 | |
Agustina's just been saying... | 0:48:57 | 0:48:59 | |
We asked her whether she thought | 0:48:59 | 0:49:02 | |
this sort of quite manual activity would last, | 0:49:02 | 0:49:06 | |
because you can see evidence of such things dying out everywhere, really. | 0:49:06 | 0:49:10 | |
She said she didn't know. She does it herself | 0:49:10 | 0:49:13 | |
because she so admires her father who's worked so hard | 0:49:13 | 0:49:17 | |
for so many years doing it. | 0:49:17 | 0:49:19 | |
It's almost she feels a sense of duty as a daughter to carry on. | 0:49:19 | 0:49:22 | |
But she said, "I don't know whether my son will." | 0:49:22 | 0:49:25 | |
But it's a shame, really, because actually, as I was looking at these | 0:49:25 | 0:49:29 | |
I was just thinking I've got to buy a string of that and take it home. | 0:49:29 | 0:49:33 | |
They reap the garlic in July and sew it in September. | 0:49:34 | 0:49:38 | |
This garlic is special. They call it ajo morado - purple garlic. | 0:49:38 | 0:49:43 | |
There's a bit in Don Quixote when he says to his servant, Sancho Panza, | 0:49:43 | 0:49:48 | |
"Eat neither garlic nor onion | 0:49:48 | 0:49:50 | |
"for thy smell will display the peasant in you." | 0:49:50 | 0:49:54 | |
And people have long had this idea | 0:49:54 | 0:49:56 | |
of the Spanish being, you know, massive garlic eaters. | 0:49:56 | 0:50:00 | |
Indeed, they do eat about 1.5kg of garlic a year. | 0:50:00 | 0:50:04 | |
But...we all love garlic these days | 0:50:04 | 0:50:06 | |
and we all love big cloves of garlic. | 0:50:06 | 0:50:09 | |
When I'm cooking or when my chefs are cooking, | 0:50:09 | 0:50:12 | |
if you get those tiny little cloves of garlic you just think, | 0:50:12 | 0:50:15 | |
"Oh, I can't be bothered with these." | 0:50:15 | 0:50:17 | |
And apparently, China is exporting ever more garlic. | 0:50:17 | 0:50:22 | |
But this is the sort of garlic we want. | 0:50:22 | 0:50:24 | |
This lovely sort of blush pink garlic, | 0:50:24 | 0:50:27 | |
produced by people like Jesus here. | 0:50:27 | 0:50:30 | |
It's Spanish garlic and it smells right | 0:50:30 | 0:50:33 | |
and it's got big cloves and I love it to bits. | 0:50:33 | 0:50:36 | |
So, Jesus, what does garlic mean to this part of La Mancha? | 0:50:37 | 0:50:42 | |
HE SPEAKS SPANISH | 0:50:42 | 0:50:44 | |
'Well, he's saying garlic is everything round here | 0:50:49 | 0:50:52 | |
'and it's been that way always. | 0:50:52 | 0:50:55 | |
'I don't think you really need me to translate this bit, | 0:50:55 | 0:50:58 | |
'he's so passionate, he transcends words.' | 0:50:58 | 0:51:02 | |
I didn't quite get all that but, I have to say, the way he was speaking | 0:51:08 | 0:51:12 | |
with such passion and picking up the ground, it means everything to him. | 0:51:12 | 0:51:16 | |
Do you know, on the way to see the garlic fields near Las Pedroneras, | 0:51:16 | 0:51:20 | |
I saw this roadside restaurant, Los Angeles. | 0:51:20 | 0:51:24 | |
I thought, "I bet they make fabulous garlic soup there." | 0:51:24 | 0:51:29 | |
And, lo and behold, that turned out to be the very place | 0:51:29 | 0:51:32 | |
that Jesus suggested we had lunch. | 0:51:32 | 0:51:35 | |
Angela is the owner and cook here | 0:51:35 | 0:51:38 | |
and sure enough her reputation for garlic soup in the region | 0:51:38 | 0:51:41 | |
is second to none. | 0:51:41 | 0:51:43 | |
She takes virtually a whole bulb of garlic | 0:51:43 | 0:51:46 | |
and roughly slices the cloves and starts to fry them in olive oil. | 0:51:46 | 0:51:50 | |
It's only a few seconds before she adds pimenton dulce, | 0:51:50 | 0:51:54 | |
the sweet one, for that tiny bit of fire and smokiness. | 0:51:54 | 0:51:58 | |
She also puts in pimenton picante for extra heat. | 0:51:58 | 0:52:01 | |
Many people in La Mancha look upon this soup | 0:52:01 | 0:52:04 | |
as an elixir for a healthy, long life. | 0:52:04 | 0:52:07 | |
I saw a documentary on it on Spanish TV in the hotel, | 0:52:07 | 0:52:11 | |
with lots of very fit-looking octogenarians | 0:52:11 | 0:52:15 | |
swearing it's the garlic soup that keeps them young and fit. | 0:52:15 | 0:52:19 | |
She ladles in water and chicken stock, 50/50, | 0:52:19 | 0:52:22 | |
and then drops in a couple of bay leaves that've been soaked in water. | 0:52:22 | 0:52:26 | |
Next, bread, once again using up stale bread | 0:52:26 | 0:52:31 | |
which slowly goes soft and silky in the soup. | 0:52:31 | 0:52:34 | |
And finally, she cracks in an egg, breaks it up and stirs that around, | 0:52:34 | 0:52:38 | |
so you get those lovely trails of poached egg in the soup, | 0:52:38 | 0:52:42 | |
rather like the Chinese do. | 0:52:42 | 0:52:44 | |
And to finish off, | 0:52:45 | 0:52:47 | |
a clove of ajo morado just to remind you you're in La Mancha. | 0:52:47 | 0:52:52 | |
A sprig of rosemary. Perfecto. | 0:52:52 | 0:52:54 | |
And as I thought | 0:52:58 | 0:52:59 | |
there is nothing more that needs to be said about that. | 0:52:59 | 0:53:02 | |
Another symbol of La Mancha, these fabulous fields of croci. | 0:53:11 | 0:53:16 | |
A sight for sore eyes. | 0:53:16 | 0:53:19 | |
I often wonder about the ingenuity of mankind when it comes to food. | 0:53:19 | 0:53:24 | |
Who'd of thought that the stamens of this little flower | 0:53:27 | 0:53:30 | |
could enrich the dishes of the world. | 0:53:30 | 0:53:33 | |
They call it the red gold of La Mancha | 0:53:34 | 0:53:37 | |
and the harvest takes place in October. | 0:53:37 | 0:53:40 | |
Usually, it's carved up by family groups. | 0:53:40 | 0:53:43 | |
Sometimes there'll be three generations | 0:53:43 | 0:53:46 | |
and each family would hope to get something like eight pounds of pure saffron a season. | 0:53:46 | 0:53:51 | |
That's worth its weight in gold. More, in fact. | 0:53:51 | 0:53:55 | |
The stamens are dried very gently over an ordinary domestic heater | 0:53:55 | 0:54:00 | |
and then they're ready to use in such classic dishes as fabada. | 0:54:00 | 0:54:05 | |
And where would paella be without saffron? | 0:54:05 | 0:54:08 | |
Another culinary icon of La Mancha | 0:54:11 | 0:54:14 | |
is manchego cheese, made from ewe's milk. | 0:54:14 | 0:54:18 | |
Traditionally, the cheese was eaten by the shepherds to sustain them. | 0:54:23 | 0:54:27 | |
The thing about manchego, is that it's amazingly tasty | 0:54:27 | 0:54:31 | |
and keeps for a long time. | 0:54:31 | 0:54:33 | |
Anyone from La Mancha distains elaborate accompaniments | 0:54:35 | 0:54:39 | |
with their prize cheese. | 0:54:39 | 0:54:41 | |
Only membrillo, a jelly made with quince. | 0:54:41 | 0:54:45 | |
I couldn't resist asking the chef about growing up in La Mancha | 0:54:45 | 0:54:50 | |
and what he ate as a child. | 0:54:50 | 0:54:53 | |
HE SPEAKS SPANISH | 0:54:53 | 0:54:55 | |
Basically, he said in the morning | 0:54:59 | 0:55:01 | |
they'd have slices of potatoes fried in olive oil. | 0:55:01 | 0:55:06 | |
Then, at night, it would be beans cooked with chorizo and bacon. | 0:55:06 | 0:55:10 | |
This would be on the stove gently cooking all day | 0:55:10 | 0:55:13 | |
while they were out with the sheep. | 0:55:13 | 0:55:16 | |
Oh, and wine. | 0:55:16 | 0:55:17 | |
So, to those friends who told me to give La Mancha a miss | 0:55:20 | 0:55:23 | |
and head straight down to the coast, I say unto thee, | 0:55:23 | 0:55:27 | |
I think you've got it wrong. | 0:55:27 | 0:55:29 | |
This place is utterly magical | 0:55:29 | 0:55:32 | |
and it fits the Spanish love of myths and legends. | 0:55:32 | 0:55:35 | |
With half-closed eyes, you can see why the courageous | 0:55:35 | 0:55:39 | |
but slightly mad Don Quixote thought these were giants. | 0:55:39 | 0:55:43 | |
Of course they're giants! What do you think they are? Windmills? | 0:55:43 | 0:55:48 | |
I can't think of a fictional character more important to a nation, | 0:55:51 | 0:55:56 | |
so loved and cherished and understood by all, | 0:55:56 | 0:56:00 | |
that at the very mention of his name over here, | 0:56:00 | 0:56:02 | |
a knowing, almost loving, smile appears on the face | 0:56:02 | 0:56:05 | |
of whoever you may be talking to at the time. | 0:56:05 | 0:56:08 | |
I like this. | 0:56:10 | 0:56:11 | |
This is what first greets you when you come into the inn. | 0:56:11 | 0:56:14 | |
"The sun began to usher in the morn, | 0:56:14 | 0:56:16 | |
"when Don Quixote sallied out of the inn, | 0:56:16 | 0:56:19 | |
"so well pleased, so gay and so overjoyed to find himself knighted, | 0:56:19 | 0:56:25 | |
"that he enthused the same satisfaction into his horse | 0:56:25 | 0:56:28 | |
"who seemed ready to burst his girths for joy." | 0:56:28 | 0:56:31 | |
In the book, it was the landlord of this tavern | 0:56:38 | 0:56:41 | |
who knighted Don Quixote while he was very, very drunk. | 0:56:41 | 0:56:45 | |
But the famous novel is peppered with culinary anecdotes | 0:56:45 | 0:56:49 | |
because food played an important part in the conversations | 0:56:49 | 0:56:53 | |
between the knight and his fat squire. | 0:56:53 | 0:56:56 | |
Quixote said, "while I'm eating, I know nothing, | 0:56:56 | 0:56:59 | |
"but when I've finished eating, I begin to understand." | 0:56:59 | 0:57:04 | |
One of the most famous dishes mentioned in the book | 0:57:04 | 0:57:07 | |
is pisto manchego, a dish of fried vegetables in a sauce | 0:57:07 | 0:57:11 | |
topped with a couple of fried eggs. | 0:57:11 | 0:57:15 | |
I really don't think La Mancha would be La Mancha without Don Quixote, | 0:57:15 | 0:57:18 | |
without Cervantes' enormous imagination. | 0:57:18 | 0:57:22 | |
I mean, I feel we all feel very personal about Spain. | 0:57:22 | 0:57:26 | |
I was just watching these Japanese tourists going through here. | 0:57:26 | 0:57:29 | |
Do they know that it was a work of fiction? | 0:57:29 | 0:57:32 | |
Do they know that this inn was only a fictional idea | 0:57:32 | 0:57:36 | |
of where Don Quixote received his knighthood? | 0:57:36 | 0:57:41 | |
They probably don't. I don't know. Does it matter? | 0:57:41 | 0:57:44 | |
Because, I think Spain to me - my Spain - | 0:57:44 | 0:57:49 | |
is the same sort of place as Don Quixote's Spain. | 0:57:49 | 0:57:53 | |
It's a sort of lost world of idealistic people, of innocence. | 0:57:53 | 0:57:58 | |
I mean, Don Quixote himself was gentle, was idealistic, | 0:57:58 | 0:58:02 | |
was altruistic and he was lost. | 0:58:02 | 0:58:04 | |
I mean he was mad and he was deluded | 0:58:04 | 0:58:07 | |
but somehow that has enormous strength to us all, really. | 0:58:07 | 0:58:10 | |
I think we yearn for a world where those values existed | 0:58:10 | 0:58:16 | |
and sadly it's vanishing from Spain today. | 0:58:16 | 0:58:21 | |
Next time, I follow the sun to Extremadura | 0:58:24 | 0:58:27 | |
and into the golden light of Andalucia. | 0:58:27 | 0:58:31 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd | 0:58:35 | 0:58:38 | |
E-mail [email protected] | 0:58:38 | 0:58:42 |