28/05/2017 Saturday Kitchen Best Bites


28/05/2017

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Good morning. We're back to deliver more creative cooking,

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world-class chefs and great food,

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so sit back and enjoy as we dish up another portion

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of Saturday Kitchen Best Bites.

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Welcome to the show. Now, top chefs, creative cooking,

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hungry celebrities and an Omelette Challenge

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lie ahead in the next 90 minutes.

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Coming up on today's show,

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James Martin serves up strawberry cream-filled meringues

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for actor Sean Maguire.

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Lawrence Keogh is here with some beautifully smoked fish.

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He hot-smokes mackerel fillets

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and serves with honey-spiced beetroot, beetroot leaves

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and fresh horseradish.

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Mark Sergeant shows us a great dish with new season lamb.

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He pan-fries lamb cutlets with garlic, rosemary and anchovies,

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and then plates up with crushed peas, flavoured with marjoram,

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and a tomato and olive dressing.

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The brilliant Brian Turner and the awesome Henry Harris

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go into battle at the Omelette Challenge hobs.

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Then it's over

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to Jose Pizarro, who's cooking up two tasty tapas dishes.

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He deep-fries chicken wings and spices them up

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with sweet paprika, chilli and garlic,

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and he also makes savoury braised peas

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with egg and Serrano ham.

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And finally, Jessica Hynes faces her food heaven or food hell.

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Did she get her food heaven, rhubarb rum babas

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with roasted rhubarb and rhubarb cream?

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Or her food hell, grilled sardines with sauce vierge,

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pan-fried Jersey Royals and salad?

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You can find out what she got at the end of the show.

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But first, over to a chef who once spent six years

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teaching skiing and snowboarding in France and Colorado.

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It's Alyn Williams, and he is getting creative with cuttlefish.

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-Great to have you on the show.

-Thank you.

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-It's been a long time.

-It has.

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You brought some cuttlefish with you -

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only the second time we've ever done that.

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-I think Mr Koffmann cooked it on our show once.

-I believe so.

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-He minced it, though.

-Yeah, he did, like a Bolognese.

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-You are, going to sort of chargrill it.

-I am.

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But I'm going to chargrill that,

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I'm also going to chargrill this big boy.

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The watermelon. So, off we go.

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I'm going to basically get this on for you, as well,

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cos we've got the almonds in there.

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OK, I'm going to get the watermelon on first

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because that takes a little while to break down and to caramelise.

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Yeah.

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So, cooking watermelon - there will be, hopefully,

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a few people doing barbecues this weekend.

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-Hope so.

-Great on a barbecue as well, innit, watermelon?

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It's lovely. It's lovely, it's got a really nice character.

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The thing is, it's quite neutral in flavour at first,

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but then when you cook it and when you barbecue it...

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-I'll get rid of that.

-..the sugars in there caramelise,

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and it takes on a whole new character.

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-Yeah.

-It looks pretty cool as well.

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I can pop the almonds under the grill for you.

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They want to go in there for about 30 seconds.

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And you're going to do a dressing with...

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You want me to do that, with mint...

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-Yes, so if you can chop the mint.

-Roughly chop it.

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Roughly chop the mint and we're going to mix that with some...

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Just a bit of oil and some Chardonnay vinegar,

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and that's what we're going to marinate the cuttlefish in.

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OK. So, no oil on there. Just straight on the chargrill.

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Nothing at all, because it's got...

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Even though there is a lot of water in there, it's quite sugary as well,

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so the sugars caramelise and you really don't need to oil it.

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Right, and now we are on with the cuttlefish.

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Now the cuttlefish, so...

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Just...strips of cuttlefish, a bit like a tagliatelle, really.

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Yeah.

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Um... And the thing with cuttlefish is it's a bit like a squid,

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a similar sort of thing as a squid.

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More people associate it with this, don't they?

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-They associate it with budgerigars, rather than dinner, I think.

-Yeah.

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But it's a bit like squid,

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and you could quite easily translate this with squid.

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-Yeah.

-You could use squid instead of the cuttlefish.

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Now, tell us about the restaurant - you've been open how long?

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-We've been open for 18 months now.

-Yeah.

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Yeah, in the Westbury Hotel,

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which is just off of Bond Street in the middle of London.

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Right.

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And it's my first stand-alone venture -

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I've never done anything like this before.

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-Always worked under the watchful eye of other chefs.

-Yeah.

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And some very good chefs, at that.

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And I got the opportunity to open my own restaurant,

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-under my own steam, and thought, "Why not?"

-And away you go.

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Thought I'd go and do it,

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and never looked back, really, it's been great.

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I've really enjoyed it.

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Right, I'm going to get the sugar on for you,

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cos I know you want to get that caramelised.

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So, I'm marinating that for a few minutes.

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That's going to take on...the mint,

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you want to get the flavour of the mint...

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-There's a sink, if you want to wash your hands.

-Thank you.

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I'll wash the knife as well. Take that.

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I'll lose that.

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-I'll let you get this sugar on to caramelise.

-OK.

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There you go.

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-OK, so what we've got, we've got some toasted almonds there.

-Yeah.

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What we're going to do is we're going to sweeten them up.

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We've got sugar, which I'm going to caramelise in the pan

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and make, almost, a spicy toffee, if you like.

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-Yeah.

-Because I've got these spices, I've got some chilli flakes,

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some fennel seeds, some coriander,

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some fenugreek, black pepper and salt,

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and I'm going to mix all of that together...in here.

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Now, as well as a shiny Michelin star,

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somebody tells me you're also National Chef Of The Year.

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-National Chef Of The Year!

-What does that mean?

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-It is a very grand title, for a start.

-Right.

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It's a competition, a yearly competition,

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that's run by one of the bigger organisations

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for professional chefs and you compete.

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You go through semifinals and a final

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to compete at the restaurant show.

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-Right.

-Eight of you in the final and you battle it out, basically,

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to see who's the best out of them.

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I did it twice, I came runner-up last year...

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-Right.

-..and won it this year.

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-Very good.

-Which is...

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Got the radishes on there.

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Which is a lovely thing to win,

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and it was nice to get it out of the way,

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cos at least I don't have to do it a third year!

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You not going to go back and defend your title?

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I think it's one of those titles

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that...best not defended.

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Right, your sugar's nearly there.

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The sugar is almost caramelised,

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so I've got my Moroccan spices

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and I've got some lemon zest in there.

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We're going to use a little bit of lemon juice, too,

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and some butter, so...

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-It's just about there.

-Yeah, that is there.

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No further than that.

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OK, thank you.

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-So, we make a little bit of a toffee.

-Yeah.

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Got my spices.

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I've just basically toasted the almonds under the grill.

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-That's it, yeah.

-This is kind of Moroccan-y sort of...

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-It's a bit North African.

-Yeah.

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It's got those sort of flavours.

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-Almonds in?

-Almonds in.

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-Wonderful.

-There you go.

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And so just coat the almonds in the butter.

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The almonds will toast a bit further.

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What you don't want to do is toast the almonds

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all the way under the grill first of all,

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cos they will take on a bit more colour.

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-Almonds, of course, great combination with fish.

-Yeah.

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-Classically with trout, but...

-Yeah, it's a similar sort of thing.

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Yeah. Now, you want to use the leaves for this, as well.

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Yeah, just a few of the leaves,

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and you've already sliced the radishes,

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but a couple of the leaves.

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The leaves, I love using the leaves from the tops of radishes

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and turnips and kohlrabi, and so on,

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cos you tend to find that there's as much flavour in the leaf

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as there is in the vegetable itself.

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Cos many people just throw them away, don't they?

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I remember throwing them away when I worked for Koffmann

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-and getting a swift...

-Did he punch you?

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-..kick up the backside.

-LAUGHTER

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So, I'm just going to turn over the...

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..the watermelon, now, cos that should be quite nicely

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caramelised on the first side.

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Now, as well as busy running your own restaurant,

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you're also running a lot of

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these collaboration sort of dinners in your place.

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Well, we've just... In fact, we're just starting.

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So this September, for the month of September,

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I've got four chefs coming to cook each Tuesday with me,

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and four very...

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Four amazing chefs, really.

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-I've got Sat Bains, Simon Rogan, from the UK.

-Yeah.

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And then I've got a chef called Bart de Pooter from Holland...

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-Sorry, from Belgium.

-Right.

-Excuse me.

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..who's got a two-star Michelin restaurant in Belgium.

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-Yeah.

-Cooks very progressive, incredibly good food,

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and a man called Iggy Chan.

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-Singapore.

-From Singapore, yeah,

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who I met a couple of years ago and got on famously with,

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and I've asked him to help out as well.

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-So the key to this is cooking it quickly, like squid.

-Quite quickly,

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cos you don't want it to... You don't want it to go tough.

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If you cook it for too long at this high temperature,

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it'll toughen up, so I'm just going to...

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Best to do this outdoors, really, isn't it?

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LAUGHTER

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COUGHING

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I'm glad we disabled the fire alarms before we started this one!

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-OK.

-So it really is that quick.

-Really fast, really fast.

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And you can... I mean, you can do it in a pan of oil as well.

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-Just as easy.

-Take that off for you.

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Just going to put a little bit more of the... Thank you.

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A bit more of that dressing over the cuttlefish,

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and then I'll season that a touch.

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-But into there, I'm going to...

-Throw in the leaves.

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The leaves, so that they wilt down a little bit,

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so they'll just soften up.

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And really, it's as simple as that,

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and all I'm going to do is put it together.

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So I've got the grilled watermelon.

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This could have...

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This could probably have done with being on

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for another five minutes or so, cos you get it really, properly...

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Soft, and the juices start to come out of it...

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Soft on the outside and nicely caramelised,

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so you've got the natural sugars, but the inside is always

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going to stay crunchy,

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and you've got that nice sort of fresh bite that you'd expect.

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Get you a spoon.

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Cuttlefish -

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don't know whether supermarkets sell cuttlefish, do they?

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-Get down to the fishmonger's, guys.

-Fishmonger's.

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Right, and then you've got these radishes.

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Fresh radishes, which I'm going to sprinkle over, and then,

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of course, the almonds,

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which add that kind of spicy warmth.

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They've just been blanched in ice-cold water as well.

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-That's right.

-And then the almonds over the top.

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The almonds, which, as you see,

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they're nice and sugary, nice and caramelised,

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so they've got a nice sweetness, but with a heat from the chilli.

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And then these fellas over here. These flowers.

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These flowers over here - I've got an amazing man

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down in Cornwall who runs a cooperative of farmers

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who grows lots of little, spicy flowers, wild flowers.

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These are the first radishes of the season that he's got here,

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tiny, weenie radishes, there's a nasturtium flower...

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All with flavour. So they look pretty,

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but they've got flavour.

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Rocket flowers, those, aren't they?

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Rocket flowers, yeah, which, you know...

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The great thing about this is that...

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The great thing about the flowers is they're not...they're only in

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for a few weeks of the season, so it's nice to jump on them and...

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Of course, you've got the wild garlic flowers now, as well.

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-Year, definitely, yeah.

-But pretty strong, so...

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-Very strong.

-I'm just going to dress...

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Courgette flowers are very nice, James.

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LAUGHTER

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They're nice stuffed, apparently, with risotto!

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-Right, and then finally, we've just got...

-Finally...

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-Almonds grated over the top.

-Just a little.

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-Fresh almonds as well.

-While you grate that,

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tell us the name of the dish again.

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So we've got cuttlefish with mint,

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served with grilled watermelon and a radish salad.

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-It was worth the wait. Well done.

-Thank you.

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We get to dive in to this one, so...

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-See, the food just keeps coming, you see.

-Yeah.

-Dive in.

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-Look at that.

-Look at that.

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-Have you ever had cuttlefish before?

-Never.

-The first time.

-A first.

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Like a picture, though, isn't it? Beautiful.

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It is. I mean, those flowers and bits and pieces,

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and the radish tops as well.

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-Often people just throw them away.

-They do.

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Try and use everything off a vegetable,

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I think, it's important.

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In general, try and use everything on the animal as well.

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With the mint as well, cos it's quite a strong herb with fish.

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But it adds that sweetness, doesn't it?

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It marries along with the watermelon and back again with the spice.

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-He likes it.

-Like that?

-Yeah, that's right...

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Well, it's better than lobster!

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LAUGHTER

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Courgette!

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That would make a real showstopper starter,

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and if you can't get your hands on cuttlefish,

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then squid or octopus would work just as well.

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Coming up, James cooks strawberry cream-filled meringues

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for Sean Maguire, but first, it's over to Rick Stein,

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who is in Nottinghamshire, finding out about the secret

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to a good pork pie.

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In the grounds of this detached house

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in Cropwell Butler in Nottinghamshire

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are three brothers who make the best pork pies

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I've tasted in a long time

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from a recipe going back 150 years.

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Can you just smell that, Rick?

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I think pork pies are regarded generally as the butt

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of many a British Rail joke,

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which went with the curled-up sandwiches.

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In fact, I've noticed that in most of the pork pies

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I've had recently, there's a serious absence of jelly.

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This is the heart of a pork pie - jelly made from pigs' trotters

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which have been simmered until they fall apart.

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This mixer looks as though your grandfather may have...

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Yeah, yeah, sure.

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This mixer has got a lot of history with it, and my grandfather,

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when he was in business, in Nottingham,

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he had 16 of these in a row, all working,

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mixing pastry, mixing meat,

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and I think this is the only one left probably in England today.

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We can get our hands into it

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and mix it at the pace we like to mix.

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So it's like making handmade pastry?

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Sure, sure, there's no whipping it round and round.

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I can control it with this,

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and then when the lard, the hot boiled lard

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and water and salt go in, I can mix it all with my hands.

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So it's a hot water paste you're making?

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-Yeah, boiling water, which we're going to tip now.

-OK.

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So, I'm going to take that off.

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So you've just got water and lard in there?

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-Water, English lard, sea salt...

-Sea salt?

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Sea salt, and we're going to slowly tip it in, Rick.

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And all that should mix in with that pastry

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and really hit it with some power.

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-Brilliant.

-Thank you, Rick.

-That's all right.

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So, what's the secret of a really good pork pie, then?

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Well, I think the secret is the ingredients,

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the quality of the ingredients.

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What you actually use and what you're putting into it.

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I don't think you see any finer pastry, hot water pastry,

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than this one.

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Then we move on to the meat, which is hand...

0:14:420:14:44

We hand-butcher everything, chop it, in a mincer,

0:14:440:14:48

but chop it in a big mincer.

0:14:480:14:50

-Yeah.

-So we've got the quality of the meat, there,

0:14:500:14:53

big chunks of meat.

0:14:530:14:54

That's mixed perfect now.

0:14:540:14:56

No need to mix that no more, job done.

0:14:560:14:59

Everything about this is sort of apt, this pork pie,

0:15:020:15:05

because the pigs are local, and it's tied in with the cheese,

0:15:050:15:07

isn't it, with Stilton?

0:15:070:15:09

Yeah, I mean, the history goes back years ago,

0:15:090:15:11

where everyone produced, local farmers produced the pigs,

0:15:110:15:15

the cheese was being produced, they needed something

0:15:150:15:17

to feed the pigs on, so they fed them with the whey.

0:15:170:15:19

Course, the quality of the pig when it's fed with whey

0:15:190:15:22

is beautiful, the meat.

0:15:220:15:24

So I think they had so much pork around, they said,

0:15:240:15:27

"Right, let's make a pie."

0:15:270:15:28

So they just made it by hand, which is a Melton Mowbray pork pie,

0:15:280:15:32

when it's made by hand.

0:15:320:15:33

They look fantastic.

0:15:340:15:35

Beauties.

0:15:370:15:39

You know they're cooked and they're ready...

0:15:390:15:41

-They're bubbling.

-They've been in there an hour.

0:15:410:15:44

Simple question, but what do pork pies mean to you?

0:15:440:15:46

Oh, I suppose everything, really. It's my life.

0:15:460:15:49

Sadly, at 2.30 in the morning, you can wake up,

0:15:490:15:52

wondering if you've jellied the pies

0:15:520:15:54

or if they're ready to be sold the next day.

0:15:540:15:57

It's a passion.

0:15:570:15:58

And once you've picked the pie, you've cut it,

0:15:580:16:00

and you've got that segment in your hand, ready to eat,

0:16:000:16:03

and you bite into it and you get that lovely crunch of the pastry,

0:16:030:16:06

and then you're into the softness of the jelly,

0:16:060:16:08

and then you're back into another texture, with the meat.

0:16:080:16:11

Hand-in-hand with the making of pork pies is Stilton cheese,

0:16:150:16:18

one of the most famous cheeses in the land,

0:16:180:16:21

and it all started here at this pub, The Bell.

0:16:210:16:26

This was a coaching inn on the Great North Road -

0:16:260:16:29

the equivalent now, I suppose, of a motorway service station.

0:16:290:16:33

The coaches used to stop on the way to London

0:16:340:16:37

and people with sophisticated palates would taste the cheese

0:16:370:16:40

and recognise it for its greatness.

0:16:400:16:44

And interestingly, Stilton wasn't actually made

0:16:440:16:47

in the village of Stilton.

0:16:470:16:48

It was made a bit further north, at a place called Wymondham.

0:16:480:16:52

But the landlord of the pub here, The Bell,

0:16:520:16:55

was a real entrepreneur and built up this sale for cheeses,

0:16:550:16:59

had a sister-in-law who made fantastic cheese up there.

0:16:590:17:03

And she had a bit of sense,

0:17:030:17:05

cos she only sent the best cheeses down here to her brother-in-law.

0:17:050:17:09

So, not unnaturally, the cheeses flourished

0:17:090:17:12

and ultimately became one of the world's most famous cheeses.

0:17:120:17:17

I wonder if you could say the same for the development

0:17:170:17:20

of the motorway sandwich?

0:17:200:17:22

As for the taste,

0:17:240:17:25

the blue veining in it gives it a tartness.

0:17:250:17:28

Like a lot of food, it's sort of point and counterpoint,

0:17:280:17:33

and that's what makes it so satisfying, and actually,

0:17:330:17:35

what they eat with it around here is a sweet plum bread,

0:17:350:17:38

which again emphasises this point and counterpoint

0:17:380:17:41

which I love so much.

0:17:410:17:43

Actually, in these days of squeaky-clean hygiene,

0:17:440:17:46

this is a really interesting quote from Daniel Defoe,

0:17:460:17:49

who passed through the village in 1722.

0:17:490:17:53

He said, "It's famous for its cheese,

0:17:530:17:56

"which is called our English Parmesan,

0:17:560:17:59

"and it's brought to the table with the mites or maggots around it

0:17:590:18:03

"so thick that they bring a spoon with them

0:18:030:18:06

"for you to eat the mites with as you do the cheese."

0:18:060:18:11

But I prefer it, actually, as Stilton cut thinly

0:18:110:18:14

with honey and walnuts,

0:18:140:18:16

and a nice, healthy absence of mites!

0:18:160:18:19

To Malvern - a very English town.

0:18:290:18:32

Every time I come here, I think of Elgar

0:18:320:18:35

and all things English.

0:18:350:18:36

Well, it's difficult not to.

0:18:360:18:37

To me, in gastronomic terms,

0:18:390:18:41

one of the things that is special about Malvern is English sausages

0:18:410:18:45

and, in particular, Chris Titchell's award-winning ones.

0:18:450:18:49

They just look so appetising, Chris.

0:18:500:18:52

Just run through them and tell us about

0:18:520:18:54

the different types of sausage here.

0:18:540:18:56

These are only a small selection,

0:18:560:18:58

but a quick resume is pork and chive,

0:18:580:19:00

just a mild hint of oniony flavour, really complements the pork nicely.

0:19:000:19:04

Pork, cider and apple, local specialities.

0:19:040:19:07

Beef, stout and mustard -

0:19:070:19:08

the stout gives a lovely, soft texture to the beef,

0:19:080:19:11

which can be a little bit...

0:19:110:19:12

-I've never liked beef sausages, but...

-It's because of the fat.

0:19:120:19:15

There's a little pork in there as well,

0:19:150:19:17

helps the succulence, so we're looking for succulence in that.

0:19:170:19:20

These are our continental cousins, the merguez.

0:19:200:19:22

They look real flash!

0:19:220:19:24

Lots and lots of paprika in there.

0:19:240:19:25

They're not that spicy, but, you know,

0:19:250:19:28

nice tones of paprika in that.

0:19:280:19:30

Another one designed by a customer, she called it "Spicy Old Tomato",

0:19:300:19:34

but we call it our Worcestershire Tomato -

0:19:340:19:36

Worcester sauce, spring onions, tomato puree, again, pork-based.

0:19:360:19:40

And last but not least, the classic - plain pork.

0:19:400:19:43

The biggest and best seller.

0:19:430:19:45

So that outsells the others?

0:19:450:19:46

Outsells all the others put together.

0:19:460:19:48

We buy all our pork local from a free-range farm,

0:19:480:19:52

and there's nothing overpowering -

0:19:520:19:55

it's just a combination of light seasonings

0:19:550:19:58

and textured properly, because we only mince it.

0:19:580:20:01

We don't put it through a bowl chopper

0:20:010:20:03

or anything that puts any pressure on the meat,

0:20:030:20:05

so you've got a nice, loose-textured sausage

0:20:050:20:07

and a good-quality skin,

0:20:070:20:08

good-quality, natural skin, very important,

0:20:080:20:10

because you've got to remember that a sausage is not only

0:20:100:20:13

a combination of flavours - it's the whole eating experience

0:20:130:20:16

of having that skin pop just as you bite it,

0:20:160:20:19

and that's all part of it.

0:20:190:20:20

It's getting all of the little bits and pieces together.

0:20:200:20:23

It's all to do with just coming up with blends of flavours

0:20:230:20:27

and putting things together that keep people interested,

0:20:270:20:30

as well as not neglecting any of the things from hundreds of years

0:20:300:20:35

of sausage-making that's been going on for ages.

0:20:350:20:38

It's the original fast food.

0:20:380:20:39

You look like a conjurer, you know, making sort of balloon shapes

0:20:420:20:45

out of those long, thin, sausage-like balloons.

0:20:450:20:48

-I still can't make any poodles.

-Can't you?

0:20:480:20:50

-No, I can't make a poodle.

-You look like a natural!

0:20:500:20:52

You can have a link of sausages, any flavour you like,

0:20:520:20:55

but you can't have a poodle!

0:20:550:20:57

So far on my gastronomic journey,

0:20:570:20:59

I feel I haven't done justice to the vegetables we grow here.

0:20:590:21:03

I've come to Coleshill Organic Farm to meet Peter and Sonia Richardson.

0:21:030:21:08

It must be a very nice place to work.

0:21:080:21:10

I mean, it's very nice, all these flowers everywhere.

0:21:100:21:13

That is our singing gardener.

0:21:130:21:15

She planted all the flowers and everyone that walks through -

0:21:150:21:18

we have a lot of people walking through,

0:21:180:21:19

there's a short cut into the village -

0:21:190:21:21

and they all comment on the flowers.

0:21:210:21:23

-So you've got a singing gardener?

-Yeah, yeah.

0:21:230:21:25

-Why? Cos she's so happy working...?

-That's it, yeah!

0:21:250:21:29

She likes being in a walled garden.

0:21:290:21:30

There's something timeless, isn't it?

0:21:300:21:32

You know, it's sort of like...

0:21:320:21:33

It just goes back to The Secret Garden

0:21:330:21:35

and Mr McGregor and all those sort of fictional characters, really,

0:21:350:21:39

and...yeah, it's just a very special place to work.

0:21:390:21:42

What we try and do when we do our boxes

0:21:420:21:44

is we sent out newsletters too, with recipes and things.

0:21:440:21:47

Just so that when people get an unusual vegetable,

0:21:470:21:50

like a celeriac - you know, "What's this knobbly swede? -

0:21:500:21:53

they can actually do something with it

0:21:530:21:54

that they are going to enjoy, hopefully.

0:21:540:21:57

Whoever thought up vegetable boxes was a genius -

0:21:570:22:00

paying a small sum of money each week to a local farmer

0:22:000:22:04

for a selection of his fresh produce.

0:22:040:22:07

Well, it inspired me to come up with this dish -

0:22:070:22:10

leek cannelloni with provolone piccante cheese.

0:22:100:22:14

First of all, melt some butter in a nonstick pan

0:22:140:22:17

and add three or four sliced leeks.

0:22:170:22:20

Stir the leeks around in the butter and add some thyme.

0:22:200:22:24

I'm using lemon thyme here.

0:22:240:22:26

Continue to cook gently while you crush some garlic.

0:22:260:22:30

These organic leeks taste hotter and more peppery than ordinary ones.

0:22:300:22:35

Now, I add a small amount of water.

0:22:350:22:38

A little more stirring and then some salt

0:22:380:22:41

and freshly ground black pepper.

0:22:410:22:43

I need a good, concentrated tomato sauce

0:22:430:22:47

to spread under the cannellonis.

0:22:470:22:49

Just take some olive oil and some chopped onion,

0:22:490:22:52

finely chopped onion, and chopped garlic.

0:22:520:22:54

Sweat off the onion and garlic in the olive oil,

0:22:540:22:57

then add a can of chopped tomatoes, Italian chopped tomatoes.

0:22:570:23:00

Don't bother with fresh British tomatoes,

0:23:000:23:03

they won't taste good enough.

0:23:030:23:04

And then you just knock that down.

0:23:040:23:06

In other words, you sort of reduce it right down,

0:23:060:23:08

and you make a thing called a gastrique,

0:23:080:23:10

and this is a real little tip -

0:23:100:23:11

what it is is just a little bit of vinegar,

0:23:110:23:13

about two tablespoons of vinegar,

0:23:130:23:16

with about a teaspoon of sugar,

0:23:160:23:18

and you just boil that down to a real essence and add that,

0:23:180:23:21

then a bit of salt and pepper.

0:23:210:23:23

But the gastrique really gives the tomato sauce a real lift

0:23:230:23:26

and people say, "Gosh, what is so special about that tomato sauce?"

0:23:260:23:30

Don't get me wrong - I really like English tomatoes in the summer,

0:23:310:23:35

and they are perfect for this sauce then.

0:23:350:23:38

But not the hothouse winter ones - you're better off with tinned.

0:23:380:23:42

Now I add some ricotta cheese to the nicely softened leeks,

0:23:420:23:47

and roll about a tablespoon up in some soft lasagne.

0:23:470:23:51

Cannelloni were my first introduction to Italian food,

0:23:520:23:56

cos my parents had a flat in London

0:23:560:23:58

and there was an Italian deli on the corner

0:23:580:24:01

and I just remember going...

0:24:010:24:02

little cardboard boxes of cannelloni,

0:24:020:24:05

that delicious tomato sauce

0:24:050:24:07

and the bechamel and the Parmesan on top.

0:24:070:24:10

So I am always trying to slip cannelloni recipes in somewhere.

0:24:100:24:15

Now, to finish the dish off, a simple bechamel sauce.

0:24:150:24:19

First, I need to infuse flavour into the milk.

0:24:190:24:23

I tip it into a saucepan, add half an onion,

0:24:230:24:25

studded with three or four cloves.

0:24:250:24:28

Then I add a bay leaf or two and a few peppercorns,

0:24:280:24:31

and then I simmer.

0:24:310:24:32

But I don't let it boil.

0:24:320:24:34

I take it off the heat and in another saucepan,

0:24:340:24:37

melt the butter and some flour and stir to make a roux.

0:24:370:24:42

I'll cook this gently for three or four minutes.

0:24:420:24:45

Now, I pour the milk through a sieve and into the roux,

0:24:450:24:48

and whisk briskly to make a smooth sauce.

0:24:480:24:51

Bechamel's the easiest mother sauce to make and goes back to Louis XIV.

0:24:510:24:57

There's loads of rows whether it was French or Italian in origin.

0:24:570:25:00

I'm not too bothered - it just works for me.

0:25:000:25:03

I add a bit of cream and some grated provolone -

0:25:030:25:06

it's a cow's milk cheese from southern Italy.

0:25:060:25:10

Finally, I add an egg yolk for an extra bit of richness

0:25:100:25:13

and to make the sauce brown on top in the oven.

0:25:130:25:16

Then I whisk in some salt.

0:25:160:25:18

I have to admit that the idea for this dish

0:25:180:25:21

came from our own leeks with plain white sauce,

0:25:210:25:24

which goes so well with roast lamb,

0:25:240:25:27

and I pour the sauce right over the cannellonis

0:25:270:25:30

and sprinkle with the cheese.

0:25:300:25:33

So, all that remains to be done is to bake in an oven

0:25:330:25:36

at about 200 degrees - centigrade, that is -

0:25:360:25:40

for about half an hour.

0:25:400:25:42

Now this, of course, is a vegetarian dish.

0:25:440:25:47

I feel a bit sorry for Christopher, our cameraman.

0:25:470:25:50

He's a vegetarian and he suffers awfully bland food

0:25:500:25:53

with such stoicism on our travels.

0:25:530:25:56

It's so rare to get something good.

0:25:560:25:59

This is for him - he really liked it.

0:25:590:26:01

I'm not sure the cameramen on this show would be quite as excited -

0:26:070:26:10

they're all a bunch of carnivores, really.

0:26:100:26:12

Rick is right, and it's great to celebrate great vegetables

0:26:120:26:15

we grow in this country.

0:26:150:26:16

But it's not just veg that we should be proud of.

0:26:160:26:18

At this time of year, there are other great produce,

0:26:180:26:20

like British fruit, for instance,

0:26:200:26:22

and they don't get any more British than these fellas here.

0:26:220:26:25

The first crop of English strawberries.

0:26:250:26:28

-Do you want one?

-Yes, please.

-Proper English...

0:26:280:26:30

If you've been in LA for too long, you'll have missed them.

0:26:300:26:33

Proper English strawberries - absolutely delicious

0:26:330:26:35

throughout the whole of the season.

0:26:350:26:36

-Wonderful.

-Very good.

0:26:360:26:38

What I'm going to do is a proper dish as well with strawberries -

0:26:380:26:41

not an Eton mess, not that kind of stuff.

0:26:410:26:43

I'm going to do meringue, I'm going to do meringue

0:26:430:26:45

stuffed with the nice little strawberries and fresh cream.

0:26:450:26:48

Very, very simple. All I'm going to do is,

0:26:480:26:50

first, make our meringue.

0:26:500:26:51

We need four egg whites for this, so I'm just going to crack the eggs

0:26:510:26:54

into our little pot there and we'll just lose that.

0:26:540:26:57

Now, I mentioned at the top of the show about EastEnders.

0:26:570:27:00

-Mm-hm.

-And obviously, Grange Hill, but it was before then.

0:27:000:27:03

You worked, five years old, with Sir Laurence Olivier.

0:27:030:27:06

-Yes, yes.

-Incredible.

-I hear he was thrilled to work with me!

-Exactly!

0:27:060:27:09

And seven?

0:27:090:27:11

You played what at seven years old?

0:27:110:27:12

Monty Python...

0:27:120:27:14

I was one of the children singing Every Sperm Is Sacred

0:27:140:27:17

in The Meaning Of Life.

0:27:170:27:18

-As you do.

-Which my Catholic schoolteachers were delighted about!

0:27:180:27:21

I bet they were!

0:27:210:27:23

And your career kind of took off from there.

0:27:230:27:25

Er, yeah. I've just sort of...

0:27:250:27:28

Like every actor, you have peaks and troughs,

0:27:280:27:31

but, yeah, I think that you're really, really just fortunate

0:27:310:27:34

if you manage to just keep working.

0:27:340:27:36

I mentioned the fact ... You must work incredibly hard,

0:27:360:27:38

because I've read your biography.

0:27:380:27:40

I mean, literally, you've done everything, from theatre,

0:27:400:27:42

television, back into film,

0:27:420:27:44

-Music...

-Yes.

0:27:440:27:46

What was this music thing, 1996, was it?

0:27:460:27:49

Yeah, I just felt like, you know,

0:27:490:27:51

the music industry needed a little help, so...

0:27:510:27:53

To be honest, it was one of those things after leaving EastEnders,

0:27:530:27:56

it was kind of a long story, but I resisted it many times.

0:27:560:27:59

I was asked if I wanted to do it,

0:27:590:28:00

and I was like, "I don't have any musical talent."

0:28:000:28:03

They were like, "That's not a problem.

0:28:030:28:05

"Not important - don't let that hold you back!"

0:28:050:28:08

And I ended up having a bad motorcycle accident,

0:28:080:28:10

and was lying in bed, in hospital and I thought,

0:28:100:28:13

"Oh, you know what? I'll give it a go.

0:28:130:28:14

"Probably be one record and then it'll disappear."

0:28:140:28:16

-Three albums, four tours...

-Yeah, yeah.

0:28:160:28:18

So it was one of those things that I just didn't...

0:28:180:28:20

I didn't foresee it lasting as long as it did, and I apologise.

0:28:200:28:24

-LAUGHTER

-I apologise for putting you through that!

0:28:240:28:26

The bright lights of Hollywood took you over to LA,

0:28:260:28:29

like a lot of actors.

0:28:290:28:30

But it must be difficult out there.

0:28:300:28:31

Yeah, I didn't really...

0:28:310:28:34

It wasn't a strategy or a plan.

0:28:340:28:35

I was just sort of going about my business here

0:28:350:28:39

and my manager sort of saw me in something that had been on the BBC

0:28:390:28:43

and said, "Would you like a manager?"

0:28:430:28:45

And I was like, "Yes, that would be nice."

0:28:450:28:47

And one thing led to another, did an audition on tape here,

0:28:470:28:50

it was sent over there, the director liked me,

0:28:500:28:52

flew me over and then...

0:28:520:28:54

-And lead role.

-Yeah.

-In, what, Meet The Spartans, it was?

0:28:540:28:57

No, this was about nine years ago, when I moved there.

0:28:570:29:00

I actually went to Warner Brothers

0:29:000:29:01

and they just sort of liked me for some reason.

0:29:010:29:05

I think they probably drink a lot there.

0:29:050:29:08

LAUGHTER

0:29:080:29:09

And I got a deal to make a show for them

0:29:090:29:12

and it lasted for about a year-and-a-half,

0:29:120:29:14

and by then, I sort of liked living there, so I stayed.

0:29:140:29:17

-And the rest is history.

-Yeah.

-There you go.

0:29:170:29:20

Just quickly, make the meringue, whipped egg whites.

0:29:200:29:23

You can have this after your Sunday lunch.

0:29:230:29:26

Sugar - no need to follow the old recipes

0:29:260:29:29

of folding in figure of eight,

0:29:290:29:30

just get the sugar in as quick as possible.

0:29:300:29:33

There you go.

0:29:330:29:34

Now, if you want sticky meringue, it's what you do next.

0:29:340:29:37

You put either cornflour or white wine vinegar in it,

0:29:370:29:40

and that way, when you cook it, it'll go very sticky in the middle.

0:29:400:29:43

-And crunchy on the outside.

-Vinegar? In meringue?

0:29:430:29:45

Vinegar in meringue, that's how you get sticky meringue.

0:29:450:29:48

If you've got a fan oven, like I have,

0:29:480:29:50

a bit of meringue on there.

0:29:500:29:52

It sticks the paper down, otherwise, if you have got a fan oven,

0:29:520:29:56

your meringues will be flying around the oven when you open the door.

0:29:560:30:00

Just sticks to the bottom there.

0:30:000:30:01

And all we do with that is just lift these on and just pop them on...

0:30:010:30:05

..like that and they just literally sit on top like that.

0:30:070:30:12

So, from Hollywood, now you're back into the UK. This new...

0:30:120:30:16

-It's like a comedy, isn't it?

-It's... Yeah, it's a sort of...

0:30:160:30:19

It's a co-production between an American channel and the BBC

0:30:190:30:22

here and it's, yeah, it's a sort of action adventure fantasy comedy.

0:30:220:30:28

We were trying to squeeze as many genres as we could.

0:30:280:30:31

What's it called?

0:30:310:30:32

This is always the fun part.

0:30:320:30:34

-It's called Krod Mandoon And The Flaming Sword Of Fire.

-Right.

-Yes.

0:30:340:30:39

That's normally the reaction I get.

0:30:390:30:40

"And that's the title they're sticking with, is it?"

0:30:400:30:43

And it was actually funny, that was the thing that nearly put me off.

0:30:430:30:45

"Who's going to watch Krod Mandoon And The Flaming Sword Of Fire?"

0:30:450:30:48

And then I read it and I was like, "Oh, actually pretty funny."

0:30:480:30:51

So what's different about it, then?

0:30:510:30:52

Cos they're saying that it's this new form of comedy.

0:30:520:30:54

I don't know if it's anything new, per se.

0:30:540:30:56

I mean, everything's just a regurgitation of the same thing, but

0:30:560:30:59

I don't think it's been done or seen and it's sort of

0:30:590:31:02

a little bit Monty Python, it's sort of a bit sort of Blackadder.

0:31:020:31:07

And it's got Matt Lucas, who I think is probably the funniest guy

0:31:070:31:10

I've ever met, so it's worth looking at just for...

0:31:100:31:13

-And will it go across to America as well?

-Yes.

0:31:130:31:15

Well, it just aired there.

0:31:150:31:17

-It aired there first and now it's going to start here.

-There you go.

0:31:170:31:21

And you mention Matt Lucas - it must give you a big boost.

0:31:210:31:25

Oh, it's amazing.

0:31:250:31:27

Cos I'm just, like most people, I'm just a huge fan of his,

0:31:270:31:30

so when you're standing opposite him, trying to do a scene and he...

0:31:300:31:33

I always thought that funny people could, you know,

0:31:330:31:35

-manage to not get the giggles, but he's a giggler.

-Yeah.

0:31:350:31:38

And if he laughs, you've got no chance, have you?

0:31:380:31:40

Right, just finish this off. We've got our meringue.

0:31:400:31:43

In we go with the strawberries now.

0:31:430:31:45

There you go, good old-fashioned English strawberries.

0:31:450:31:47

Bit of whipped double cream. There you go.

0:31:470:31:49

And then what I've got in here is just got some strawberries

0:31:490:31:52

just in there, in the blender.

0:31:520:31:53

We just blend roughly...

0:31:550:31:56

-to a little paste.

-It's a nice little mini one, isn't it?

0:31:560:31:59

-You like the little mini blender?

-Yeah, it's nice. Sweet.

-Very sweet.

0:31:590:32:02

And then we can take our puree and throw that in as well.

0:32:020:32:06

So the idea is we give this a quick mix.

0:32:060:32:08

But then this is where it gets better.

0:32:100:32:12

You take a dollop of your meringue, which I've got on here.

0:32:120:32:16

-Look at these.

-You've made one earlier.

-Yeah.

0:32:160:32:20

Well, it takes an hour and a half in the oven. Low oven.

0:32:200:32:23

These were done this morning.

0:32:230:32:25

There you go.

0:32:260:32:28

-I was up at 6am making these.

-Yeah, me too.

0:32:280:32:31

I made a bunch of meringues before I left the house.

0:32:310:32:34

And then a pile of that on the top.

0:32:340:32:36

Then, if you're into Michelin Star cooking, like John,

0:32:360:32:39

-bit of icing sugar on the top.

-Is that it? That's what gets the star?

0:32:390:32:42

That's an extra fiver in his restaurant! That's what that is.

0:32:420:32:45

-Dive into that.

-What's the correct, polite way?

-There isn't one.

0:32:450:32:49

-So I just pick it up like a hamburger?

-You can use your...

-OK.

0:32:490:32:52

You can pick it up like a hamburger if you want.

0:32:520:32:54

-I don't want to look uncouth on a cooking show.

-It's all right.

0:32:540:32:57

Cos I am, obviously, but...

0:32:570:32:58

You can just dive in.

0:32:590:33:00

That's a pre-dessert in Yorkshire, isn't it, James?

0:33:000:33:03

-This is a petit fours in Yorkshire, mate.

-Wow, that's really good.

-Eh?

0:33:030:33:06

Look at that. It's proper. There you go.

0:33:060:33:10

There you go. Bit of that, there you go.

0:33:100:33:13

This is just for you, John Campbell.

0:33:130:33:16

-There you go?

-Where's my icing sugar?

-You want your icing sugar?

0:33:160:33:20

-Make you feel at home! There you go.

-Thank you.

0:33:200:33:23

-What do you think of that?

-So good!

-Happy?

0:33:230:33:25

Yeah!

0:33:250:33:26

I'm not sure whether Sean Maguire liked that or not,

0:33:310:33:33

what do you reckon(?) Anyway, today,

0:33:330:33:35

we're taking a look back at some of the delicious recipes from

0:33:350:33:37

the Saturday Kitchen archives and there are still loads of

0:33:370:33:40

inspiring dishes to come.

0:33:400:33:41

Up next, it's Lawrence Keogh with a tasty mackerel dish.

0:33:410:33:44

And watch as James' shirt changes colour.

0:33:440:33:46

He also changes the colour of Lawrence's jeans. Take a look.

0:33:460:33:50

-Good to have you on the show again, Lawrence.

-Morning, mate.

0:33:500:33:52

-Like I said, something very, very seasonal.

-Yeah.

-And quick as well.

0:33:520:33:56

Very quick. We're going to do a freshly-smoked mackerel.

0:33:560:33:58

OK, that's been filleted

0:33:580:34:00

and V-boned, actually.

0:34:000:34:01

You can see the line down the centre.

0:34:010:34:02

That's where it's been V-boned.

0:34:020:34:04

But before we get cooking, I've been doing the show for four years.

0:34:040:34:07

My mother, this is the first time she's watched it live,

0:34:070:34:10

the very, very first time.

0:34:100:34:11

She's now petrified and has probably spilt the coffee all over the place.

0:34:110:34:14

But she's always moaning about my hair and my shirt.

0:34:140:34:17

Mother, if you don't like the shirt,

0:34:170:34:19

you can have this colour...or this colour...or this colour.

0:34:190:34:23

But we'll go back to this colour. It's good that, innit? I like that.

0:34:230:34:27

-Been playing with that all morning.

-I have! Well, they have, yeah.

0:34:270:34:30

I'm wearing blue again, yeah? There you go. Right, fire away.

0:34:300:34:33

We've got some beetroot.

0:34:330:34:34

We're going to smoke the mackerel in hickory wood.

0:34:340:34:37

We've got coriander seeds, garlic, lemon and, obviously,

0:34:370:34:40

which you absolutely hate and that's why I brought it along...

0:34:400:34:43

-Look at it!

-It's horseradish, fresh horseradish.

-Horrific stuff.

0:34:430:34:46

And he can't stand it.

0:34:460:34:48

And also we've got smoked paprika - two types. We've got sweet and hot.

0:34:480:34:51

Right, so, first thing we're going to do...

0:34:510:34:53

I'm going to lightly oil the mackerel.

0:34:530:34:54

-Just a bit of oil on the skin.

-Now, you want me to slice this garlic.

0:34:540:34:58

-Slice the garlic wafer thin, please.

-And the coriander seeds.

0:34:580:35:01

Yes, crush those. I'm going to season the mackerel.

0:35:010:35:04

I hope you turned the smoke alarms on earlier.

0:35:040:35:08

Now, we'll get that in there and explain what it is,

0:35:080:35:11

because it needs to cook. It needs to cook for five minutes.

0:35:110:35:14

Just lay it down on that hickory wood that's smoking.

0:35:140:35:17

If we want to preserve this,

0:35:170:35:19

we'd soak the mackerel in some salted water,

0:35:190:35:21

like two ounces of salt, 600mls on water,

0:35:210:35:23

for four hours to cure it with some salt first.

0:35:230:35:25

But it kind of puts people off when you start talking about that,

0:35:250:35:28

but smoked fish, you can buy that sort of stuff from garden centres.

0:35:280:35:30

Exactly. This'll take about five, six minutes. It won't take long.

0:35:300:35:34

Now, the beetroot is lovely. This is golden beetroot.

0:35:340:35:37

I'm going to show you one here.

0:35:370:35:38

Right, we're going to blanch this beetroot leaf,

0:35:380:35:41

so you want lots and lots of olive oil.

0:35:410:35:42

There's a sink in the back if you want to wash your hands.

0:35:420:35:45

You want lots and lots of olive oil, make a little bath.

0:35:450:35:47

We've got sliced garlic in there and the crushed coriander seeds.

0:35:470:35:50

-OK, that's in there.

-This is golden beetroot.

0:35:500:35:52

You don't often see this very much.

0:35:520:35:54

Now, this is your ethos as a restaurant, isn't it?

0:35:540:35:56

Golden beetroot. That's lovely. So you've got golden beetroot.

0:35:560:35:59

So you're trying to find historic, small quantities of veg.

0:35:590:36:02

-And that's your candied beetroot.

-He's not listening to me.

0:36:020:36:07

-I'm showing the camera.

-These. These.

0:36:070:36:09

You're trying to find this sort of historic sort of veg,

0:36:090:36:11

-and small quantities.

-Yeah, and this is in season.

0:36:110:36:14

These have come from Colchester. So these have come from Borough Market.

0:36:140:36:17

We change the menu, as you know,

0:36:170:36:18

every month for the seasons and, er, you know,

0:36:180:36:21

it might be a bit boring some times of the year,

0:36:210:36:23

swede and curly kale but, hey, we do swede with butter and nutmeg

0:36:230:36:26

and curly kale and sprouts with cream and things like that.

0:36:260:36:29

We play with it.

0:36:290:36:31

What I want you to do is take the nice red leaves here, OK?

0:36:310:36:34

Now, you can eat these leaves.

0:36:340:36:37

We're going to blanch these in boiling salted water for

0:36:370:36:39

about 20 seconds.

0:36:390:36:40

A lot of people think these are poisonous, but they're not.

0:36:400:36:43

No, they're really good for you.

0:36:430:36:44

Some good acids, good sort of things in there.

0:36:440:36:47

Now, these ones we're going to take to one side.

0:36:470:36:50

So we'll take the beetroot leaves...

0:36:500:36:51

I'm going to refresh... Do something unusual.

0:36:510:36:53

I'm going to refresh the beetroot leaves in cold olive oil.

0:36:530:36:56

It's an idea I got from an Italian restaurant that I worked in

0:36:560:36:59

many years ago as a young lad and it was nice.

0:36:590:37:02

We used to do it with a mozzarella salad. It was quite nice.

0:37:020:37:05

Now, the other tray for me, chef. These beetroots...

0:37:050:37:08

Just to recap, in there,

0:37:080:37:09

there's nothing else other than the hickory chips, which are those.

0:37:090:37:12

-Hickory chips, there.

-On there, with a little bit of...

0:37:120:37:16

You can use a baking sheet, or even a bit of tinfoil on the bottom.

0:37:160:37:18

Yeah, yeah. If you're at home, what I do is get your hand like that,

0:37:180:37:22

wrap some foil around your hand, like a cup,

0:37:220:37:24

put the hickory wood into a pan, and, same way.

0:37:240:37:27

And this is great for a barbecue and things like that, James.

0:37:270:37:30

It's lovely.

0:37:300:37:31

So these literally just want 20 seconds.

0:37:310:37:33

20 seconds and refresh in the cold olive oil.

0:37:330:37:35

These beetroots,

0:37:350:37:37

we need some more olive oil and just kind of glug, glug, glug over.

0:37:370:37:42

Do you use the beetroot leaves and stuff like that?

0:37:420:37:45

Because I know you can use turnip leaves and all that sort of stuff.

0:37:450:37:48

-Absolutely.

-I think chefs have become quite used

0:37:480:37:50

to using the whole vegetables

0:37:500:37:52

these days. And, as Lawrence said, great flavour as well.

0:37:520:37:55

I always like blending my paprikas, cos, many years ago,

0:37:560:37:59

when I was at the Ritz in London, we used to do stroganoff,

0:37:590:38:03

the old-fashioned stroganoff,

0:38:030:38:04

and I was always taught to blend the hot and sweet together.

0:38:040:38:07

So we're blending that and if you have about two grams of each

0:38:070:38:11

and just sprinkle it over the beetroot, so it's olive oil,

0:38:110:38:14

salt, pepper and beet and that goes in the oven.

0:38:140:38:17

-Yeah.

-OK. That's it.

0:38:170:38:19

If you can get them pea shoots and cut them into some ice water, chef?

0:38:190:38:22

-Yeah.

-OK. Now, there's one...

0:38:220:38:24

There's one prepared earlier.

0:38:260:38:28

-There's one prepared earlier.

-How long is that...

0:38:280:38:31

You don't need to peel those, but how long does that go in for?

0:38:310:38:33

-That's taken about 10, 12 minutes, to be honest.

-Right, OK.

-OK.

0:38:330:38:37

So they come out and what's nice is to get a little glug, glug,

0:38:370:38:40

glug of...some nice honey. I want you to peel the horseradish, James.

0:38:400:38:43

I know you... The only reason I brought horseradish on

0:38:430:38:46

is I know you hate it. He comes to the restaurant,

0:38:460:38:48

has roast beef and goes, "Take the horseradish off, Keogh.

0:38:480:38:50

-"Don't like it."

-JAMES LAUGHS

0:38:500:38:52

-"Hate it."

-I mean, look at it! It's just horrific stuff.

0:38:520:38:55

Before you start peeling it...

0:38:550:38:57

If you plant this in your garden, you can never, ever get rid of it.

0:38:570:39:01

He hates the smell of it. He can't stand it.

0:39:010:39:03

-I can't stand the taste of it.

-It's going to be all over your hands now.

0:39:030:39:05

-Because he's been complaining all morning...

-What have you done?

0:39:050:39:09

BBC props department... have brought this along.

0:39:090:39:13

JAMES LAUGHS

0:39:130:39:15

-Brilliant.

-There you go. If you grate that for me...

0:39:150:39:19

He can't stand it.

0:39:210:39:22

-It's a good look, James.

-MUFFLED: I can't breathe!

-Fantastic.

0:39:250:39:27

Suits you.

0:39:270:39:29

There you go. Change your shirt at the same time.

0:39:310:39:34

There you go.

0:39:340:39:35

-Right.

-Where has this been in?

-You don't want to know.

-Exactly!

0:39:350:39:39

Andy, the producer...

0:39:390:39:41

Let's have a quick look at the mackerel.

0:39:430:39:45

Next time you phone up, wanting to be on this show, we're full.

0:39:450:39:48

-Right, that's doing lovely well now.

-Yeah.

-Right. Erm, lemon.

0:39:480:39:51

I want one lemon grated in there.

0:39:510:39:53

I'm just checking to see if you've got anything else underneath there.

0:39:530:39:56

-No, no.

-One lemon grated.

-One lemon grated in there. OK? That's it.

0:39:560:40:01

-OK.

-Yeah.

0:40:020:40:04

-Lovely.

-So this is kind of like a dressing as well, yeah?

0:40:040:40:06

-Yeah, this is going to make the dressing.

-Right.

0:40:060:40:08

And it's nice, you can play with that marinade, if you want to,

0:40:080:40:11

a little bit, you know? Do something...

0:40:110:40:13

-Put some fresh herbs through it, you know.

-Yep.

-Tarragon, parsley.

0:40:130:40:16

The horseradish is so strong, it makes you cry.

0:40:160:40:19

It genuinely would be my food and I would gag as well, at the end of it.

0:40:210:40:25

-It's just...

-There you go.

0:40:250:40:26

-So the fish is ready.

-Fish is ready.

0:40:280:40:30

-Take the lid off there.

-Look at that.

0:40:300:40:32

That's nicely seasoned.

0:40:320:40:33

Don't do that next to your net curtains at home.

0:40:330:40:36

-There you go. Right, you going to plate up now?

-Yeah. There we go.

0:40:370:40:41

Now, what's nice, while I roast these whole, is when you cut

0:40:420:40:45

them in half now, you've got the lovely colours coming through.

0:40:450:40:49

It's best to roast them whole.

0:40:490:40:51

There we go. Look at the beautiful colours there, James.

0:40:510:40:54

Fantastic, isn't it? Right? Look at that.

0:40:540:40:56

-Licking fingers.

-OK.

-Wash me hands.

0:40:570:41:01

Right, pick up some of this...beetroot leaves, OK?

0:41:010:41:04

Bit of garlic and coriander in there.

0:41:040:41:06

-And I suppose you could pop this in a jar, this.

-You can jar it, yeah.

0:41:080:41:11

It's nice with a bit of grilled salmon, or bring it to a barbecue.

0:41:110:41:14

-Yeah.

-Bit of chicken.

0:41:140:41:15

-There we go. A bit like spaghetti, isn't it?

-There you go.

0:41:170:41:20

It's interesting...

0:41:200:41:21

Clare's looking...!

0:41:210:41:23

Well, I'm just slightly concerned when you said earlier,

0:41:230:41:25

"Some people think it's poisonous...but it's not."

0:41:250:41:28

You know, that's quite an extreme thing for some people to think.

0:41:280:41:31

I don't know, we're about to find out.

0:41:310:41:33

Wait till you taste the monkfish, love!

0:41:330:41:34

LAUGHTER

0:41:340:41:36

We've got a bucket down here for you.

0:41:360:41:38

-Right.

-Right, better scatter on the garlic, OK?

-Yeah.

0:41:380:41:41

Let's put these pretty beetroots around here.

0:41:410:41:44

-Got a nice palette knife there, chef, for me?

-Yeah.

0:41:440:41:47

-Do you want me to grab this fish?

-Yeah, that's it.

0:41:470:41:50

-Just turn this fish over?

-Yeah.

0:41:500:41:52

Can you put it, that's it, on the skin side?

0:41:520:41:54

Skin side down, all right?

0:41:540:41:57

-Fantastic.

-There you go.

0:41:570:41:59

Nice bit of charred...lovely fish, there.

0:41:590:42:02

So this is hot-smoked, so it's cooked all the way through.

0:42:020:42:04

It's hot, it's smoky. You've got lovely flavours in there.

0:42:040:42:07

You've got the smoky beetroot.

0:42:070:42:08

You've got the pea shoots, a little sprinkle.

0:42:080:42:10

-OK. A little squeeze of lemon...

-Yeah.

-..over the plate.

0:42:120:42:16

Nice bit of garnish and that's great. Great summery dish.

0:42:160:42:19

And then just leave it at that. No, go on.

0:42:190:42:21

Your best bit(!)

0:42:230:42:24

And then just grate the horseradish like you would

0:42:240:42:27

a bit of Parmesan... all over the dish.

0:42:270:42:30

-That's a lot.

-There's honey in there.

0:42:300:42:32

A lot more than he did in rehearsal, I know that for a fact!

0:42:320:42:35

So, freshly smoked mackerel, with beet leaves marinated,

0:42:350:42:38

-roast beets in paprika and honey and...

-With the dandruff on top.

0:42:380:42:42

-..fresh horseradish.

-Lovely.

0:42:420:42:43

Oh, it's bad, is that sort of stuff.

0:42:500:42:52

There you go. Right.

0:42:520:42:53

Dive into that. Tell us what you think of this one.

0:42:550:42:58

-OK.

-You get to dive in.

0:42:580:42:59

So, do you know what your mum's thinking now is,

0:42:590:43:01

-"He hasn't washed his hands."

-Yeah, I did wash my hands. I did.

0:43:010:43:04

I don't think you did. You did that garlic thing...

0:43:040:43:06

-I'm going to go and wash my hands.

-Exactly. There we go.

0:43:060:43:09

-There you go.

-That's nice. That's a strange thing to do! "Smell that!"

0:43:100:43:15

-What do you think?

-Well, I'm thinking already that,

0:43:170:43:20

as we've got cod cheeks to come and we're having mackerel here

0:43:200:43:22

that to have monkfish as well would just be wrong. Too much fish.

0:43:220:43:25

That would be too much fish.

0:43:250:43:27

But, I mean, you could use salmon for that.

0:43:270:43:29

Salmon would be lovely for that. You know, mackerel's great, obviously.

0:43:290:43:32

Erm... Try a bit of monkfish.

0:43:320:43:34

Mackerel's good cos it's so cheap as well.

0:43:340:43:37

It's cheap and it's a good, oily fish. Very good for you.

0:43:370:43:39

I'm trying a bit of the poisonous beetroot leaf.

0:43:390:43:41

Get everything... Beetroot leaf, yes.

0:43:410:43:43

And if she collapses on the show, well, you know.

0:43:430:43:45

-Happy with that?

-Can't tell yet. Give me a minute.

0:43:450:43:47

I want to change the colour of MY shirt.

0:43:530:43:55

Anyway, clearly, the budget doesn't stretch that far.

0:43:560:43:59

Only happens to special people.

0:43:590:44:00

Anyway, now it's over to Keith Floyd,

0:44:000:44:02

who's meeting with an expert on oysters on a rainy day in Cornwall.

0:44:020:44:05

The oyster. The poor, crazy oyster.

0:44:200:44:23

These androgynous aphrodisiacs,

0:44:230:44:25

once the staple diet of apprentices,

0:44:250:44:27

are now consumed by Gucci-shoed executives who also swallow

0:44:270:44:30

big deals and wine, regardless of expense,

0:44:300:44:33

and are quite ignorant of the labour of love here on the beautiful

0:44:330:44:36

Hillford River, which provides the currency of their credibility.

0:44:360:44:40

And a labour of love it is.

0:44:440:44:45

In this damp, dim shed, a beautiful girl,

0:44:450:44:48

her fine fingers clad in gloves,

0:44:480:44:51

chips away the barnacles to make the pale,

0:44:510:44:53

silver grey and sometimes creamy brown shell more appealing

0:44:530:44:57

before they are hand-graded on this clacking Victorian roundabout

0:44:570:45:01

and slid into the purifying tanks to await

0:45:010:45:04

a seaweed-wrapped train journey to Paddington.

0:45:040:45:07

My love of oysters, like all true love, has caused me pain.

0:45:100:45:14

Good friends have shied from the zinc bar,

0:45:140:45:17

and would-be lovers have said, "No, no, if you don't mind,

0:45:170:45:20

"I might be sick."

0:45:200:45:21

How sad.

0:45:210:45:23

I felt good, even involved in this gentle industry,

0:45:290:45:32

and my mouth watered as I plucked fresh mussels

0:45:320:45:34

from the tanks to cook later...

0:45:340:45:36

..but something was wrong.

0:45:400:45:41

On this fine, autumnal day,

0:45:410:45:43

with the drizzle falling and the soft river lapping, I felt uneasy.

0:45:430:45:47

The man who owned the place was clearly distressed

0:45:470:45:49

by the frenetic activity of a film crew,

0:45:490:45:52

and it wasn't until we struck up a conversation about rugby

0:45:520:45:55

that this shy and gentle man began to trust

0:45:550:45:57

and tell me about his life and work on the river -

0:45:570:46:00

and Len Hodges is passionate about that.

0:46:000:46:02

Len, I'm speechless.

0:46:030:46:06

This incredible view and these fantastic oysters,

0:46:060:46:09

and you live here. I mean, you must be the happiest man in the world.

0:46:090:46:13

Yes, I do love my work, and I love the food I produce too.

0:46:130:46:17

Tell me, everybody knows oysters in restaurants and things,

0:46:170:46:20

but we've seen them coming out of the river and stuff.

0:46:200:46:22

How old is one of these?

0:46:220:46:23

-They vary between five and seven years.

-Five and seven years.

0:46:230:46:27

It depends, really, on if you get two hot summers

0:46:270:46:30

in a row and get a very big growth, then you'll get them in five years.

0:46:300:46:34

But if you get cold summers, they take longer to grow.

0:46:340:46:39

I'm just going to carry on eating a few of these for a moment.

0:46:400:46:43

You don't mind if I don't talk to you, do you?

0:46:430:46:45

You don't really care much about...

0:46:450:46:47

What else has come here from the Helford River, then?

0:46:470:46:50

It's all your territory, if you like.

0:46:500:46:53

-Cockles?

-Yes, the cockles.

0:46:530:46:54

-They're yours too?

-That's right.

0:46:540:46:57

-And the winkles.

-The winkles.

0:46:570:47:00

-And the mussels.

-And the mussels.

0:47:000:47:01

I'm going to have a mussel.

0:47:010:47:03

-Thank you.

-Might as well enjoy ourselves, won't we?

-That's right.

0:47:030:47:06

They're very rich, orange colour, aren't they? Can you see that?

0:47:060:47:09

They're such a beautiful colour.

0:47:090:47:10

Last year, on my birthday, at the very ripe old age of 40,

0:47:100:47:14

I sat out in a brilliant pub in Bridport in Dorset,

0:47:140:47:20

just tried to eat 40 oysters, one for each year of my life.

0:47:200:47:24

I got to 37. How many is the most you've ever eaten?

0:47:240:47:26

I mean, would you eat lots and lots?

0:47:260:47:28

-Oh, yes, I've eaten 60, 70 at a sitting.

-Have you really?

0:47:280:47:31

The ideal amount, I think, is nine, ten oysters.

0:47:310:47:34

One of the very important things, of course,

0:47:340:47:37

is opening these damn things.

0:47:370:47:38

I've had a feast, I've had a great time, I don't want to stop,

0:47:380:47:41

but can you just, for them, you know -

0:47:410:47:45

who are people who apparently count -

0:47:450:47:46

they'll want to know how to join in our good time.

0:47:460:47:49

Just show them how you actually open the damn things?

0:47:490:47:52

Well, the important thing is to make sure

0:47:520:47:54

that your thumb is there, like that.

0:47:540:47:56

A lot of people open it like that,

0:47:560:47:59

and it goes into their hand and it's cut,

0:47:590:48:01

and we've lost a good oyster eater.

0:48:010:48:04

KEITH LAUGHS

0:48:040:48:05

But if you get your finger like that, or thumb, rather, like that.

0:48:050:48:10

And you're in control.

0:48:100:48:11

Pan down on that, because he's got these big, fishermen's hands,

0:48:110:48:14

and you're not going to see it unless you get...

0:48:140:48:16

It is a cookery programme, it is quite important.

0:48:160:48:18

Can you put it in, please? Thank you.

0:48:180:48:20

And then you cut the muscle in the centre. Lift it off.

0:48:200:48:24

Go over it like that, gently, in case you've taken any shell in.

0:48:240:48:28

Cut the muscle underneath, and turn it over and bring the fat side up.

0:48:280:48:32

And hand that over to me. And just do another one,

0:48:320:48:34

because the cameraman isn't terribly keen on oysters,

0:48:340:48:36

-I don't think he paid attention.

-That's a beautiful oyster, that one.

0:48:360:48:40

-Plump little dream, isn't it?

-It is.

0:48:400:48:42

But we are today enjoying...

0:48:440:48:46

This is all very luxurious for us, but 100 years ago or so,

0:48:460:48:49

it was the staple food of apprentices and working men

0:48:490:48:52

and stuff like that.

0:48:520:48:53

It is what people ate to survive, wasn't it? It wasn't a luxury.

0:48:530:48:56

No, no. When you go back to the 18th century,

0:48:560:49:00

oysters were produced everywhere.

0:49:000:49:02

In those days,

0:49:020:49:04

there were 400 million went into Billingsgate alone.

0:49:040:49:07

-400 million into Billingsgate?

-Yes.

0:49:070:49:09

That's very interesting, because the last time we quoted that figure,

0:49:090:49:12

my director said I was talking nonsense -

0:49:120:49:13

and it's now just been proved by an expert, Mr Pritchard.

0:49:130:49:16

Thank you very much. 400 million.

0:49:160:49:18

-Into Billingsgate?

-That's right.

0:49:180:49:20

How much would they have cost in those days?

0:49:200:49:22

Well, they were very, very cheap.

0:49:220:49:24

I've got a letter that was sent out years ago, and they were,

0:49:240:49:28

I think it was, 45p for 100,

0:49:280:49:32

something like that.

0:49:320:49:34

-45p by today's rate, for 100 oysters?

-No, old p, that is.

0:49:340:49:38

-Old p? My God.

-Yes.

0:49:380:49:39

And so, what would they cost today?

0:49:390:49:42

Well, in London now, they're anything from 5.50 to £15 a dozen.

0:49:420:49:46

Good Lord above. And who's making all the money there?

0:49:460:49:49

You're not making all that money.

0:49:490:49:51

Well, I think everyone's making a little,

0:49:510:49:53

but we've got the little and leave the rest to somewhere else, I think!

0:49:530:49:57

How would you describe the taste of them?

0:49:570:50:00

To me, it's like having a taste of scent, rather than an actual thing.

0:50:000:50:06

I mean, there's no unpleasant texture, it's delicious -

0:50:060:50:08

but how would you describe it?

0:50:080:50:09

Well, I think it tastes of the sea, it's fresh,

0:50:090:50:12

and leaves a lovely taste in your mouth

0:50:120:50:14

and gives you an appetite for your next course.

0:50:140:50:16

Does it give you an appetite for women?

0:50:160:50:18

Well, I don't know about that.

0:50:180:50:21

I think the story for oysters does indicate they help your sex life.

0:50:210:50:28

Well, I tell you what, eating these wonderful oysters,

0:50:280:50:31

drinking the wine, the whole bit - it's given me such an appetite.

0:50:310:50:35

I actually want to go and cook something myself, now.

0:50:350:50:37

Can I borrow your kitchen for a moment or two?

0:50:370:50:40

Yes, and may I say, I've enjoyed your company very much.

0:50:400:50:42

-That's kind of you.

-I'll lead the way.

0:50:420:50:44

OK, off we go to your kitchen, then.

0:50:440:50:46

Make a bit of a change from the rain.

0:50:460:50:48

We've done our bit out there, we can have a bit of fun for ourselves now.

0:50:480:50:52

So you see the importance of my little black box,

0:50:530:50:56

it's actually got the tools of my trade in -

0:50:560:50:58

and if the worst comes to the worst, if the BBC goes bust,

0:50:580:51:01

I can still get a job as a cook any day.

0:51:010:51:03

In fact, a cook is what I am but although I've been enjoying myself

0:51:030:51:07

with the oysters outside, Len did give me some mussels,

0:51:070:51:10

and I thought it would be quite good if I cooked you

0:51:100:51:12

a few of Len's mussels which have come from the river,

0:51:120:51:15

which is right outside this kitchen where I'm sitting now,

0:51:150:51:17

Erica's kitchen. It's really great. I'm standing, not sitting.

0:51:170:51:20

But one of the very important things about mussels,

0:51:200:51:22

and this is a mussel here, it's got this beard,

0:51:220:51:24

this is the bit that attaches itself to the rocks.

0:51:240:51:27

The way it lives is, it's held on by this beard.

0:51:270:51:29

Obviously, it's inedible. Vital thing, rip that right off.

0:51:290:51:33

By the way, it's quite a hard task. You've got to rip that thing off.

0:51:330:51:36

Another thing that mussels often do to you

0:51:360:51:39

and confound all of your best laid plans is often they're full of mud,

0:51:390:51:42

and if you've cooked them, as you'll see in a moment,

0:51:420:51:45

and one of them's full of mud, then you've blown it.

0:51:450:51:47

So, the essential test with every mussel

0:51:470:51:50

push it sideways, like that - and if it was full of mud,

0:51:500:51:53

it will have separated to reveal two halves of mud. That one's good.

0:51:530:51:57

So, just to repeat that, do clean off everything.

0:51:570:51:59

If it's got barnacles, scrape it, use a knife, scrape it away,

0:51:590:52:03

get them as clean as you can. That's enough lessons.

0:52:030:52:05

What we want to do now is get on with the actual cooking process

0:52:050:52:08

of these things, because they're beautiful.

0:52:080:52:10

And, actually, Erica, whose kitchen this is,

0:52:100:52:12

cleaned a pile of them for me earlier on.

0:52:120:52:14

Speeds things up, makes things a lot better.

0:52:140:52:17

Because mussels are fun, because you can cook them in white wine,

0:52:170:52:21

which is one of the prime ingredients

0:52:210:52:23

of this particular little dish...

0:52:230:52:25

I'll just open that.

0:52:250:52:27

Just some dry white wine.

0:52:270:52:28

If you can't afford dry white wine, use some dry cider.

0:52:280:52:31

Doesn't matter too much.

0:52:310:52:32

If you're going to stop eating mussels

0:52:320:52:34

because you've got no wine or cider, then use a drop of water.

0:52:340:52:37

But, if you can, use some wine.

0:52:370:52:39

Other ingredients are one onion,

0:52:390:52:42

for the amount of mussels we're doing, a load of garlic here.

0:52:420:52:45

Make sure they can see this garlic.

0:52:450:52:47

And then quite a bit of parsley.

0:52:470:52:48

We'll say about that much parsley.

0:52:480:52:51

And we want a bit of butter.

0:52:510:52:53

And you can't economise on these things.

0:52:530:52:56

You know, chuck in a quarter of a pound of butter

0:52:560:52:59

into a pan like that.

0:52:590:53:00

While that butter's melting,

0:53:000:53:02

I'm going to crush these cloves of garlic.

0:53:020:53:04

There's no need to peel them, by the way,

0:53:040:53:06

because you won't actually be eating the garlic,

0:53:060:53:08

you'll just be using the flavour of it.

0:53:080:53:10

So you're wasting your time -

0:53:100:53:11

you could be better off having a glass of wine

0:53:110:53:14

instead of painfully getting garlic skin under your nails.

0:53:140:53:17

Actually, on the subject of wine,

0:53:170:53:19

it's a myth you have to drink white wine with fish.

0:53:190:53:22

You can drink anything you like.

0:53:220:53:24

Red wine's perfectly all right.

0:53:240:53:26

And I'm going to have a drop of that just for the moment.

0:53:260:53:28

Under this intense pressure we've been working under this morning...

0:53:280:53:31

..to eat oysters, and cockles, and things.

0:53:320:53:35

Right, little slurp goes down very well.

0:53:350:53:37

We've got to chop the onions, it's a thing that's always...

0:53:370:53:40

You can show off doing this.

0:53:400:53:42

It's quite good, you chop it finely, like that,

0:53:420:53:44

and then back like that,

0:53:440:53:45

and you never cut your fingers,

0:53:450:53:47

which is quite important,

0:53:470:53:49

because the resulting mess is an inconvenience.

0:53:490:53:52

Chop, chop, chop,

0:53:530:53:54

fast as you like or as slow as you like,

0:53:540:53:56

but, actually, although I'm sort of showing off in half a way,

0:53:560:53:59

I'd rather you didn't show off at home and cut your fingers.

0:53:590:54:02

I'd rather you enjoyed the mussels, you know. Take your time.

0:54:020:54:05

Actually, I think with things like this,

0:54:050:54:08

it's a cheap meal to prepare, it's a feast, as well.

0:54:080:54:11

So, now we want to get all of these elegantly prepared ingredients

0:54:110:54:16

popped into the melted butter.

0:54:160:54:18

Chuck them in.

0:54:180:54:20

Just to remind you again, I'm sure you haven't paid proper attention,

0:54:200:54:24

it is parsley, garlic, onions and butter.

0:54:240:54:26

Right. Maximum heat.

0:54:260:54:28

I don't cook on electricity often, as a matter of fact,

0:54:280:54:31

so it's like the last thing we did on the damn boat,

0:54:310:54:35

on a camping gas thing, now electricity...

0:54:350:54:38

Anyway, so, in they all go.

0:54:380:54:41

All the lovely mussels.

0:54:410:54:43

I'd add a drop of white wine.

0:54:440:54:46

Talking of which, I actually haven't had a drink for a while.

0:54:460:54:49

Don't think it'd do me any harm to have a quick slurp.

0:54:490:54:51

Because it's hot in the kitchen and one needs a drink from time to time.

0:54:530:54:56

Now I'm going to put the lid on. Let them stew away for a while.

0:54:560:55:00

You can just stop because they've got to cook for a few moments.

0:55:000:55:03

Come back when I'm ready, OK?

0:55:030:55:05

OK, you can come back now. All right, bring your camera in.

0:55:310:55:34

I'm going to take the lid off, and if it's all gone well,

0:55:340:55:36

we're going to see these little dreams opening up.

0:55:360:55:40

Now, you see, look at those bubbling away.

0:55:420:55:46

Always test the stuff.

0:55:460:55:49

God, already tasting terribly good.

0:55:490:55:51

I'll give those a little stir around...

0:55:510:55:54

with the thing here.

0:55:540:55:56

You see how they're beginning to open.

0:55:560:55:59

Incidentally, any that don't open,

0:55:590:56:02

after this cooking process is complete, don't eat them.

0:56:020:56:05

The ones that don't open are going to be dead.

0:56:050:56:08

But come right in there, Malcolm, would you please?

0:56:080:56:10

We've got wonderful colours in there. We've got steam bubbling up,

0:56:100:56:13

you've got the whole heart of food happening here.

0:56:130:56:16

Come closer, closer, closer.

0:56:160:56:17

Now, ladies and gentlemen, and people we've met on this trip,

0:56:170:56:21

who've all thought we're a bit strange,

0:56:210:56:23

there you have a magnificent dish of moules mariniere.

0:56:230:56:26

Gosh. OK, so, there we are.

0:56:290:56:32

The cooking is done, we've got Erica's mixing bowl.

0:56:320:56:36

I'd actually wanted some rather fine, sort of, porcelain,

0:56:360:56:39

but beggars, which we are, I can assure you we can't be choosers.

0:56:390:56:44

Anyway, these mussels are cooked.

0:56:440:56:46

Tip them into the bowl.

0:56:460:56:48

I'm not going to put all the juice in,

0:56:480:56:50

that's why I'm using this spoon with holes in, you see,

0:56:500:56:53

because we don't want to burn our little artist's fingers

0:56:530:56:56

when we eat them with our fingers.

0:56:560:56:58

We're going to drink the sauce a little bit separately...

0:56:580:57:01

..later on.

0:57:020:57:04

That was one for the Queen.

0:57:040:57:06

God, I'm actually quite hungry,

0:57:080:57:10

despite all the oysters we had earlier on.

0:57:100:57:12

Hold on a minute, hold on a minute, hold it, hold it.

0:57:120:57:15

They are hot.

0:57:150:57:17

Hot.

0:57:200:57:22

But good. Very, very good.

0:57:240:57:26

Tell you what, if you just hold there a minute,

0:57:260:57:28

you just keep gazing at these, would you? Can you come in closer?

0:57:280:57:31

I want to get Erica a moment. Hold on there, just keep looking at them.

0:57:310:57:34

They're very beautiful. Erica, could you spare a moment, please? Erica!

0:57:340:57:38

-Yeah?

-I'm sorry to interrupt you,

0:57:380:57:40

you couldn't come through to your kitchen, could you?

0:57:400:57:43

Because what I'd like you to do, we've left you a dreadful mess here.

0:57:430:57:46

Come around, look at Erica, because this is her kitchen.

0:57:460:57:49

We've ruined it all morning, we've trampled over the lawn,

0:57:490:57:52

we've abused her oyster farm,

0:57:520:57:54

we've drunk her wine, we've used her electricity and gas,

0:57:540:57:57

and all I've got to offer you is either,

0:57:570:57:59

and the choice is yours,

0:57:590:58:01

one of my mussels or a big kiss.

0:58:010:58:02

-Oh...

-Which will you have?

-A big kiss.

0:58:020:58:05

Thanks ever so much.

0:58:050:58:07

We've really enjoyed being here and that's everybody. It's been great.

0:58:070:58:11

-Thanks a million.

-You're welcome, very welcome.

0:58:110:58:13

-Can you try a mussel at the same time?

-I wish you wouldn't interrupt.

0:58:130:58:17

It's my programme, for God's sake. Have a mussel, anyway.

0:58:170:58:20

They're quite hot.

0:58:200:58:22

And let me give you a little bit of juice, if I can find...

0:58:220:58:24

I know they're in here,

0:58:240:58:25

cos I've been looking around the kitchen all morning.

0:58:250:58:28

And...eat that one.

0:58:280:58:30

Put a bit of juice in there as well.

0:58:300:58:32

And see how you like it. If you don't like it, tell them.

0:58:340:58:36

Because I'll always lie about it later.

0:58:360:58:37

In fact, if you do tell them you don't like it, we'll cut it out.

0:58:370:58:40

-No, I adore them.

-Lovely.

-Mm!

0:58:400:58:43

-Beautiful.

-Thanks a lot.

0:58:430:58:45

Great stuff. More fantastic fish-related Floyd next week.

0:58:510:58:54

Now, as ever on Best Bites, we're looking back at some

0:58:540:58:56

of the best recipes from the Saturday Kitchen archives.

0:58:560:58:58

Still to come on today's show, Henry Harris and Brian Turner

0:58:580:59:02

square up at the hobs in the omelette challenge.

0:59:020:59:04

Jose Pizarro delivers tasty tapas twice,

0:59:040:59:07

deep-fried chicken wings spiced with sweet paprika, chilli and garlic -

0:59:070:59:11

and he also makes savoury braised peas with egg and Serrano ham -

0:59:110:59:15

and Jessica Hynes faces her food heaven or her food hell.

0:59:150:59:18

Did she get her food heaven,

0:59:180:59:20

rhubarb rum babas with roasted rhubarb and rhubarb cream,

0:59:200:59:23

or her food hell, grilled sardines with sauce vierge,

0:59:230:59:26

pan-fried Jersey Royals and salad?

0:59:260:59:28

You can find out what she got at the end of the show.

0:59:280:59:30

Next up, it's Mark Sargeant with a quick and simple dish

0:59:300:59:33

that's full of fresh Italian flavours.

0:59:330:59:35

-What are we cooking?

-We've got a really lovely new season lamb here.

0:59:350:59:39

Lovely layer of white fat on there, really light pink meat.

0:59:390:59:43

It's going to take two or three minutes to cook,

0:59:430:59:45

rest for a minute and it's going to be perfect. Lovely and tender.

0:59:450:59:48

Now, coming into the season now, salt marsh lamb,

0:59:480:59:50

which is just about two weeks away.

0:59:500:59:52

As such, I was trying to get

0:59:520:59:53

some for this but we're just a little bit too early.

0:59:530:59:55

But it's got that lovely flavour because they graze on the marshes,

0:59:550:59:58

the salt marshes near the sea,

0:59:580:59:59

gives that really lovely flavour into the meat.

0:59:591:00:01

It's a bit like having Jersey Royals, they grow it with seaweed.

1:00:011:00:04

-Gives really amazing flavour.

-So, we've got the lamb, what else?

1:00:041:00:06

We're going to serve that with some peas, fresh peas,

1:00:061:00:09

obviously seasonal at the moment.

1:00:091:00:11

You're going to shell those, cos that's the boring job,

1:00:111:00:14

and we're going to serve these with a herb

1:00:141:00:16

that no-one really uses much, marjoram,

1:00:161:00:18

fresh marjoram, which is absolutely delicious with peas.

1:00:181:00:21

-The Greeks love it, don't they?

-Yeah, exactly. Up in the hills -

1:00:211:00:24

and we're going to cook the lamb with anchovies,

1:00:241:00:27

which people may or may not be familiar with.

1:00:271:00:28

Anchovies are actually really good with lamb,

1:00:281:00:31

because the salted anchovies pretty much just disintegrate

1:00:311:00:33

and flavour the lamb really well.

1:00:331:00:35

It's great to stuff legs of lamb and things like that with anchovies.

1:00:351:00:38

But use tinned anchovies,

1:00:381:00:39

not like my mother did, when she used fresh anchovies.

1:00:391:00:42

She called me and said, "Where do the heads go?"

1:00:421:00:45

So use the tinned ones.

1:00:451:00:47

So, this is a French-trimmed best end of lamb.

1:00:471:00:49

Basically that means that the bones are nice and clean.

1:00:491:00:52

You can do that, or you can just have it normal, with the flat,

1:00:521:00:55

-and you can just nibble on the bone.

-OK.

1:00:551:00:57

So, we are going to cook this in a pan with some rosemary.

1:00:571:00:59

-Yeah.

-A nice hot pan. Get some seasoning on there.

1:00:591:01:02

You've recently come back from a trip to France, haven't you?

1:01:021:01:05

Yeah, I had the best time ever.

1:01:051:01:06

We started off in Calais, and then went through to Champagne,

1:01:061:01:10

to the champagne-tasting at Pol Roger,

1:01:101:01:12

and then went down to Berry and Limousin,

1:01:121:01:15

where they've got all the calves. An amazing area.

1:01:151:01:17

Then went from there up to Ile de Re, the island just off La Rochelle.

1:01:171:01:21

I had the best oysters of my life.

1:01:211:01:24

France is obviously home for great ingredients,

1:01:241:01:26

but it can be a bit hit and miss with restaurants.

1:01:261:01:29

It's the first time ever, really -

1:01:291:01:30

I apologise to any French people out here -

1:01:301:01:32

that I've ever actually gone to France

1:01:321:01:34

and really had that French experience

1:01:341:01:36

that everyone always talks about.

1:01:361:01:38

Going to the markets, as well, was just the most fantastic thing.

1:01:381:01:41

-It's wonderful.

-They're so proud of their ingredients and things,

1:01:411:01:44

but don't make a big sort of spectac over it.

1:01:441:01:47

They're just handing there, "Yes, this is my oysters."

1:01:471:01:50

-You want to buy them or you don't want to buy them.

-That's it.

1:01:501:01:52

I went to a market about two months ago

1:01:521:01:54

and there was just a lady selling cauliflower. Nothing else.

1:01:541:01:57

Just cauliflower. Wonderful.

1:01:571:01:58

A lovely chou-fleur.

1:01:581:02:00

So, we've got the lamb cooking away. How long does that take? Roughly?

1:02:001:02:03

About two minutes on each side, roughly.

1:02:031:02:05

And the key, like all meats,

1:02:051:02:06

which we always ram down viewers' necks, is resting it.

1:02:061:02:09

That just enables all the juices inside

1:02:091:02:11

to sort of go through nice and evenly, so it's nice and moist,

1:02:111:02:15

so when you cut into it, the juices stay inside the lamb,

1:02:151:02:17

as opposed to running all over the plate.

1:02:171:02:20

So we get some nice colour on there.

1:02:201:02:22

It's got quite a nice light, delicate fat on there,

1:02:221:02:25

so it's going to caramelise quite nicely.

1:02:251:02:28

Colour those on that side.

1:02:281:02:30

Now, these Melrow tomatoes, Lancashire as you told me,

1:02:301:02:32

and they're greenhouse-grown tomatoes,

1:02:321:02:35

but they're the first in the season now,

1:02:351:02:37

and they're really just amazing.

1:02:371:02:39

I mean, you've got these locally, home-grown kind of things.

1:02:391:02:42

Don't go buying Italian, Spanish, anything like that,

1:02:421:02:45

especially at this time of year,

1:02:451:02:47

-when it's coming in.

-I get the message.

1:02:471:02:49

I've also got a little bit of garlic, which we lightly crush.

1:02:511:02:54

So, these peas, you're making into a little puree, yeah?

1:02:541:02:57

Yeah. In fact, you need to hurry up a little bit and get them in, James.

1:02:571:03:00

You're going to ruin my dish, otherwise.

1:03:001:03:02

-There you go, they're in.

-So, crushed peas, amazing.

1:03:021:03:04

You can't beat the flavour of fresh peas.

1:03:041:03:06

They're absolutely fantastic.

1:03:061:03:08

Get them in, give them a simmer for two or three minutes,

1:03:081:03:11

or however long we've got, and then we're going to crush them down,

1:03:111:03:14

a little bit of butter in there, touch of creme fraiche as well,

1:03:141:03:18

and then the marjoram in there, as well, at the end.

1:03:181:03:20

Now, as well as working on all these restaurants,

1:03:201:03:23

because Gordon's keeping busy,

1:03:231:03:24

-you're currently doing a new series of The F Word.

-We are.

1:03:241:03:27

We're storming through the filming of that at the moment,

1:03:271:03:29

which is always fun.

1:03:291:03:31

And a book, as well.

1:03:311:03:32

Yeah, we've just finished the book, to go with the series,

1:03:321:03:36

and that came out, I think, two or three weeks ago,

1:03:361:03:39

straight to number one, which is fantastic,

1:03:391:03:41

and I love doing all that sort of thing

1:03:411:03:43

because it gives me a really nice diverse job.

1:03:431:03:46

It's interesting how you work with Gordon on the books.

1:03:461:03:49

Yeah, when we sit down, we pile through ideas

1:03:491:03:52

and things that we've seen.

1:03:521:03:54

Obviously, this French trip, I'm going to ask for more time off

1:03:541:03:57

so I can go to France and get lots of inspiration.

1:03:571:04:00

Do you think I'll get that? Probably not, but never mind.

1:04:001:04:02

And we just come up with ideas, 200, 250 ideas, get them down

1:04:021:04:07

and then pick out the best ones

1:04:071:04:08

-and that's how we get our books, really.

-Yeah.

1:04:081:04:12

-So, deglaze that pan with some red wine vinegar.

-This is the dressing?

1:04:121:04:15

-Yeah. Red wine vinegar is... Hello?

-Hot pan.

1:04:151:04:17

Hello.

1:04:171:04:19

Red wine vinegar is really nice because it's quite subtle,

1:04:191:04:22

quite light, quite sweet,

1:04:221:04:24

especially if you use something like a Cabernet Sauvignon vinegar.

1:04:241:04:27

Carry on.

1:04:271:04:29

Add in our tomatoes.

1:04:291:04:30

The tomatoes we just really sort of want to break down.

1:04:301:04:33

I'm making my own cheese at home at the moment.

1:04:331:04:35

I bought a cheese-making kit about six months ago

1:04:351:04:38

and put it in the shed.

1:04:381:04:39

I thought that'd be the end of that, cleaned out my shed

1:04:391:04:41

the other day and rediscovered it, and I've been making cheese.

1:04:411:04:44

So the idea is to have my own home-made CHEESE...

1:04:441:04:47

My own home-made cheese board by Christmas.

1:04:471:04:50

I'm going to do Stilton,

1:04:501:04:51

Cheddar, I've got a double Gloucester ripening at the moment.

1:04:511:04:54

-Have you?

-Yeah, it's going to be all right.

1:04:541:04:57

What do I do next after that?

1:04:571:04:59

What's the next midlife crisis? I don't know.

1:04:591:05:02

-Midlife crisis at 24.

-Isn't it easier just buying Stilton?

1:05:021:05:06

-Yeah, right(!)

-Sorry?

1:05:061:05:07

-Isn't it easier just buying Stilton?

-You can say that about

1:05:071:05:09

-microwave meals, and I thought you were against that.

-Yes, sorry.

1:05:091:05:13

Well, my lamb is ready, my vinaigrette is ready,

1:05:131:05:15

-and my peas?

-I'm going as quick as I can.

1:05:151:05:18

I got these lovely little black olives, as well.

1:05:181:05:20

These are stunning, these little olives.

1:05:201:05:22

I can't remember the variety they are, but they're just really nice.

1:05:221:05:25

Small, really sweet.

1:05:251:05:27

They have got stones in, still,

1:05:271:05:29

but by the time you have pitted them, taken all the stones out,

1:05:291:05:32

it's going to ruin the olives, so we'll just leave those in there.

1:05:321:05:36

I have got my fresh marjoram there,

1:05:361:05:37

so we are pretty much ready to plate up.

1:05:371:05:39

-Puree's ready.

-Cool.

-There you go.

1:05:391:05:42

So, this is really quite simple.

1:05:421:05:44

This is exactly the sort of food I really love to cook at home -

1:05:441:05:47

-quick, simple, tasty.

-I mentioned the pubs.

1:05:471:05:50

Is this the type of food that you serve there?

1:05:501:05:52

Charge my wife about £3.50 an hour for me cooking in the kitchen.

1:05:521:05:55

-Is this the type of food you serve in the pubs or not?

-Not really.

1:05:551:05:58

It's a bit too sort of Italian. We do very sort of staunch British...

1:05:581:06:01

The simplicity is - but this is really me-at-home sort of food,

1:06:011:06:05

he says as he sort of plates it up like a Michelin-star chef.

1:06:051:06:09

Simple food.

1:06:091:06:11

So, the peas and the marjoram and creme fraiche in the middle.

1:06:111:06:13

The texture of those is fantastic,

1:06:131:06:15

because they are slightly undercooked still,

1:06:151:06:18

so you've got a really lovely fresh taste there.

1:06:181:06:21

And we'll get our vinaigrette on the plate.

1:06:211:06:24

-These tomatoes are really good.

-Yeah, they're great.

1:06:241:06:28

Any juices there? Not much - but better in there than in the bin.

1:06:281:06:32

Get rid of that.

1:06:321:06:34

So, spoon this round now.

1:06:341:06:36

-It smells amazing.

-It smells great, doesn't it?

1:06:381:06:40

-It smells better than the vongole, doesn't it?

-Yeah.

1:06:401:06:43

-It's that burnt vinegar sort of smell.

-Caramelised.

1:06:431:06:47

It's caramelised vinegar.

1:06:471:06:49

So, spoon that round.

1:06:491:06:51

Be really generous with this,

1:06:511:06:53

because you'll notice there is no sort of potatoes

1:06:531:06:56

or anything with this,

1:06:561:06:57

just nice crusty bread to mop up all that juice.

1:06:571:07:00

Hmm.

1:07:001:07:02

There you go.

1:07:021:07:04

And then the lamb, it's nicely rested.

1:07:041:07:06

Yeah. Nice and springy in there, still.

1:07:061:07:10

And serve it nice and pink.

1:07:101:07:12

Yeah, nice and pink.

1:07:121:07:13

-That is probably quite a big portion, that.

-No, that's all right.

1:07:171:07:20

That's what we call a starter from where I come from.

1:07:201:07:22

I was waiting for that.

1:07:221:07:24

Just a pound of potatoes on the side.

1:07:241:07:26

Lovely. Remind us what that is again.

1:07:261:07:28

So, we've got lovely fresh new-season lamb, pan-fried,

1:07:281:07:30

with crushed peas and marjoram,

1:07:301:07:33

and a lovely Melrow and olive and anchovy vinaigrette.

1:07:331:07:36

Mmm.

1:07:361:07:37

Basically lamb and mushy peas.

1:07:371:07:39

Lamb and mushy peas, yeah.

1:07:391:07:41

Delicious.

1:07:411:07:42

There we go. That is the longest title of a dish ever.

1:07:421:07:46

-Come on, dive in. Tell us what you think. There you go.

-My word.

1:07:461:07:50

I don't know whether you're a lamb fan. I know you're a meat fan.

1:07:501:07:53

-Dive into that and tell us what you think.

-OK.

1:07:531:07:56

-Oh, my God, the pressure.

-Tell us what you think.

1:07:561:07:59

Mmm! That's great.

1:08:031:08:05

-Happy with that?

-Mm.

1:08:051:08:06

I think the peas, and stuff like that,

1:08:061:08:08

you said the season's coming in. You've got the tomatoes.

1:08:081:08:11

It's nice seeing tomatoes on there, as well,

1:08:111:08:13

because people think tomatoes, June, July, August sort of thing,

1:08:131:08:16

I know they are in a greenhouse, but they're still really good.

1:08:161:08:19

And anchovy goes really well.

1:08:191:08:20

Anchovy and lamb is like a tomato and basil sort of thing.

1:08:201:08:23

-It's lovely.

-Happy with that?

-Delicious.

1:08:231:08:25

So, there you have it. Anchovy and lamb - give it a try.

1:08:291:08:32

It's delicious. Right, time now for the omelette challenge,

1:08:321:08:35

and today Brian Turner takes on Henry Harris -

1:08:351:08:37

and as it is a fairly new leaderboard,

1:08:371:08:39

the top ten is there for the taking.

1:08:391:08:41

Let's see how they do.

1:08:411:08:43

Paul Rankin sits at the centre of our omelette pan,

1:08:431:08:45

so, usual rules apply.

1:08:451:08:47

These guys have definitely made omelettes before in their lives.

1:08:471:08:50

Three-egg omelette cooked as fast as you can.

1:08:501:08:52

Let's put the clocks on the screens, please. Three, two, one, go.

1:08:521:08:56

It's gone very quiet in here.

1:09:011:09:03

It has gone very quiet.

1:09:031:09:05

I'm going to make a really nice omelette and cook it through here.

1:09:151:09:18

Baveuse, it's like...

1:09:181:09:20

I think this might be edible today.

1:09:221:09:24

On the plate.

1:09:251:09:27

Baveuse, as you said, Henry.

1:09:291:09:32

GONGS CRASH

1:09:331:09:36

It was fast and, look at that, edible.

1:09:371:09:40

Well done, Chef.

1:09:401:09:42

That's pretty good, that one.

1:09:421:09:44

This one, however, I'm sure it will taste better than it looks.

1:09:451:09:49

I tried to cook it all the way through.

1:09:491:09:51

-I didn't cook it as much as I would like to have done.

-It's all right.

1:09:511:09:54

So, first, Henry.

1:09:541:09:56

You did it in 39.60,

1:09:591:10:03

which puts you about there. Pretty reasonable time.

1:10:031:10:08

-Mr T.

-Yes, sir?

1:10:081:10:10

GUEST GIGGLES

1:10:101:10:12

It's nerve-racking, this, innit? I'm frightened.

1:10:121:10:15

Even though you did a two-and-a-half egg omelette,

1:10:151:10:17

because you left the other one, you sneaky...

1:10:171:10:20

-Look at that.

-Who told you that?

1:10:201:10:22

You did it in 38.64 seconds,

1:10:221:10:25

which puts you in good company down there, as well -

1:10:251:10:28

but at least I can eat them, which is a first.

1:10:281:10:30

Brian Turner, you cheat. I can't believe James let that go.

1:10:341:10:37

Anyway, up next is Jose Pizarro with some tasty Spanish tapas.

1:10:371:10:42

-Jose PIZARRO.

-You are getting just...must...

1:10:421:10:45

Is that nearly...

1:10:451:10:47

-Pizarro?

-Pith-arro.

-Pith-arro.

1:10:471:10:49

Lovely, lovely.

1:10:491:10:50

I'm there. So, on the menu you've got two tapas that you're making,

1:10:501:10:54

but I see this stuff over here.

1:10:541:10:56

-Always, I love to bring some present for you.

-This is delicious.

1:10:561:11:00

That is the best ham that you can get in Spain.

1:11:001:11:03

Normally, I never cook with that, because it's so expensive.

1:11:031:11:06

-For you...

-We'll talk about that in a minute. You want to get these on.

1:11:061:11:10

Chicken wings, straightaway, like that,

1:11:101:11:13

the only thing you have to do is just pan-fry...

1:11:131:11:15

pan-dry very well.

1:11:151:11:17

-So just with a tea towel or something?

-Exactly.

1:11:171:11:20

That is going to make it nice and crispy.

1:11:201:11:24

So, straightaway, like that. If you do not have a fryer...

1:11:241:11:27

No salt, nothing? Just straight in the deep-fat fryer?

1:11:271:11:29

If you do not have a fryer at home,

1:11:291:11:31

just a saucepan, plenty of olive oil and just keep turning it over, OK?

1:11:311:11:38

-Shallow-fry them?

-Yes.

1:11:381:11:40

-From you I need some shallot.

-Yeah.

1:11:401:11:43

Because that is for one tapas.

1:11:431:11:46

The second one is going to be

1:11:461:11:48

-a piece...

-Yeah?

1:11:481:11:50

Is going to be with jamon.

1:11:501:11:53

This one.

1:11:531:11:55

Now, this is the Iberico ham.

1:11:551:11:57

I have some for you guys.

1:11:571:11:59

-Just a little bit, yeah?

-Just a little bit?!

-Come on, guys.

1:11:591:12:04

Some energy for tonight.

1:12:041:12:06

This is delicious, I have to say.

1:12:061:12:08

Some olive oil.

1:12:081:12:10

Danny, there are two types.

1:12:101:12:12

-The Iberico that you tried...

-Oh, wow.

1:12:121:12:15

The Iberico is 100% bellota -

1:12:151:12:18

means acorns.

1:12:181:12:19

-Those animals have been eating just acorns.

-Yeah.

1:12:191:12:22

They are wild animals. Acorns, grass, mushrooms,

1:12:221:12:25

maybe some mouse, you know?

1:12:251:12:27

A little bit of mozzarella and basil, it'd be gorgeous.

1:12:271:12:31

It is incredible, but you have that mainly with...

1:12:311:12:34

I've had that in La Boqueria market in Barcelona with manchego cheese

1:12:341:12:38

and olive oil.

1:12:381:12:39

I think a product like that one, you really need to do nothing.

1:12:391:12:43

Yeah.

1:12:431:12:45

Just keep it simple, and that's it.

1:12:451:12:47

Some garlic. You're doing the shallot for me.

1:12:471:12:50

-I've got the garlic, yes.

-Lovely.

-There you go.

1:12:501:12:53

You want me to do the peas as well.

1:12:531:12:55

-In there.

-You mentioned that...

1:12:551:12:57

That's like a wild pig,

1:12:571:12:58

but the pork is so highly prized over in Spain.

1:12:581:13:01

I think you've got one of the best larders in the world in Spain.

1:13:011:13:04

-Absolutely.

-It's incredible.

1:13:041:13:06

Spain is like Italy - well, like every single Mediterranean country.

1:13:061:13:09

We have got the most amazing olive oil, the most amazing vinegars,

1:13:091:13:12

pimenton - the best paprika, for me, in the world.

1:13:121:13:15

We have saffron from La Mancha.

1:13:151:13:18

It's a very nice place to start looking.

1:13:201:13:23

Not only for the ham, but you can sell that...

1:13:231:13:26

Well, I've seen it.

1:13:261:13:28

You can actually buy the raw pork as well, the Iberico pork.

1:13:281:13:32

Long ago, when I was working with the Eyre brothers,

1:13:321:13:36

I put Iberico pork, medium-rare, on the menu.

1:13:361:13:40

All people were, "You crazy. You crazy.

1:13:401:13:42

"You can't eat pork medium rare." People love it.

1:13:421:13:46

And it's still in the menu, I think.

1:13:461:13:49

But you can with Iberico. Yeah.

1:13:491:13:51

-You can do with Iberico. Only with Iberico.

-Yeah.

1:13:511:13:55

Like that. I need some more garlic.

1:13:551:13:57

That one.

1:13:571:13:59

We've got the peas over here. These are fresh garden peas.

1:13:591:14:03

The thing with Spain, we are 17 different countries in one.

1:14:031:14:07

-17 different countries in one?

-Yeah.

1:14:071:14:09

North, south - completely different.

1:14:091:14:12

North is colder, south is more warm, you know?

1:14:121:14:16

It's like the UK, though, isn't it?

1:14:161:14:18

-Absolutely. You are from the north.

-Yes.

1:14:181:14:21

It's why you are...

1:14:211:14:23

This is the tropics down here.

1:14:231:14:25

We need the peas on the pan.

1:14:261:14:28

Some more garlic there.

1:14:281:14:30

So, anyway, you've got the garden peas over here.

1:14:311:14:34

You're cooking the garlic with no colour on here.

1:14:341:14:36

-You want the peas in here?

-The peas in there. Lovely.

-They are in.

1:14:361:14:40

Lovely, lovely. Some more garlic here. Next is the Iberico.

1:14:401:14:44

Can you slice for me? Do it all, please.

1:14:441:14:47

The chicken wings are getting a lovely golden colour.

1:14:491:14:51

That is what we are looking for - nice crispy outside,

1:14:511:14:54

and it is going to stay nice and moist inside.

1:14:541:14:58

-Garlic.

-Yeah. Haven't you just finished a book, or written a book?

1:14:581:15:02

-I just launched my book now.

-Right.

-Lovely, lovely.

1:15:021:15:05

-These recipes are from the book.

-Yeah.

1:15:051:15:08

It's more about Spanish ingredients.

1:15:091:15:12

The last one was Spanish food... Yes, there.

1:15:121:15:15

Some stock, like that.

1:15:151:15:18

Yeah.

1:15:181:15:20

-Lid over?

-Yes, please.

1:15:201:15:22

And now, with the garlic bubbling, just like that.

1:15:221:15:26

Bubbling, yeah - but you don't want to colour it.

1:15:261:15:29

-A little bit.

-OK.

1:15:291:15:31

So, the book's all about region to region, then?

1:15:311:15:34

I divide the book in five regions - north, east, central...

1:15:341:15:39

..and the south and the islands.

1:15:411:15:43

-Whew!

-You got it there.

1:15:431:15:45

I thought you were adding a few more there.

1:15:451:15:47

My publisher is not going to be very happy.

1:15:471:15:50

We missed out a chapter.

1:15:501:15:52

Yes, it is more about the ingredients.

1:15:521:15:54

It doesn't need to be Spanish recipes.

1:15:541:15:56

I even do pasta with chorizo and mussels.

1:15:561:15:59

So, which region is this from?

1:15:591:16:00

This one is from central. The centre of Spain.

1:16:001:16:03

It is where I am coming from.

1:16:031:16:05

-Lovely. Right.

-Now, the egg.

1:16:051:16:08

The egg.

1:16:101:16:11

Like that.

1:16:111:16:13

And cover.

1:16:161:16:17

So, if this is a tapas, you would just serve it in the pots,

1:16:171:16:20

-I take it?

-Simply like that, for dinner, beautiful.

1:16:201:16:23

Uh-huh.

1:16:231:16:25

And just keep it like that.

1:16:251:16:27

-Right, I know you want to put some of this stuff...

-Pimenton.

1:16:271:16:31

Is that the smoked one?

1:16:311:16:33

This is the smoked one. This is sweet.

1:16:331:16:36

You have sweet, bittersweet and hot.

1:16:361:16:38

I think hot, here, is going to be too much.

1:16:381:16:40

Because you have got the chilli flakes in there, as well.

1:16:401:16:42

And now the garlic.

1:16:421:16:44

-And the vinegar.

-That is sherry vinegar?

-That is lovely.

1:16:441:16:47

-Yeah.

-And it is almost ready.

1:16:471:16:49

No, tell us about your restaurants, then.

1:16:491:16:51

Because they're expanding and expanding.

1:16:511:16:54

-Not any more.

-Not any more?

-I think I did very well.

1:16:541:16:57

Two restaurants and one book, and that is it.

1:16:571:17:00

And that is it for you, then, is it?

1:17:001:17:02

At the moment. Parsley is there.

1:17:021:17:05

We're going to take out the wings from the fryer.

1:17:051:17:10

What's this on my piece of paper? You've won...

1:17:101:17:12

You have been named Harper's Bazaar Entree Personality of the Year.

1:17:121:17:17

-Amazing.

-What does that mean?

-I don't know.

1:17:171:17:20

For me, it's amazing to be recognised by the magazine.

1:17:201:17:24

I had an award last week for Best Women's Gadget in the Kitchen.

1:17:241:17:29

But you are gorgeous, and look at me.

1:17:291:17:32

Your blue eyes...

1:17:321:17:33

-I don't know how to take that.

-Take it as a compliment.

1:17:331:17:36

No, but the restaurant is doing well, I have to say.

1:17:361:17:39

Pizarro is amazing.

1:17:391:17:41

The tapas bar is unbelievable.

1:17:411:17:43

-It is happy days.

-Check those out.

1:17:431:17:46

Yes. Like that.

1:17:461:17:47

So, that is the garlic, chilli, paprika going in. Parsley?

1:17:471:17:51

Parsley, please.

1:17:511:17:54

These are delicious.

1:17:541:17:55

They are good. Some more salt.

1:17:551:17:58

The egg...

1:17:581:17:59

-It'll be ready just...

-Turn it up a little bit.

1:17:591:18:02

A little more.

1:18:021:18:03

And then just some plating.

1:18:031:18:05

How quick was that, as well?

1:18:051:18:08

It is beautiful.

1:18:091:18:10

Can you imagine, days like today, summer, you need something

1:18:101:18:13

like this, sitting outside in the garden, glass of beer or Cava.

1:18:131:18:17

Yeah, I hear you.

1:18:171:18:20

Like that.

1:18:201:18:21

Sounds good. And then we've got our egg,

1:18:211:18:24

which is that great little tapas.

1:18:241:18:26

All going on. Like that.

1:18:261:18:28

Ha-ha-ha.

1:18:281:18:30

Some more salt, I think. It's going to look nice.

1:18:301:18:32

Some more parsley.

1:18:321:18:34

Aha.

1:18:341:18:36

And chicken wings, al ajillo,

1:18:361:18:39

we say that in Spain,

1:18:391:18:41

with chilli and garlic,

1:18:411:18:43

and garden peas, now in season, with jamon

1:18:431:18:46

and egg.

1:18:461:18:48

Don't forget the jamon.

1:18:481:18:49

Jamon, jamon!

1:18:491:18:51

Jammy, jammy.

1:18:511:18:53

I have to say, I had this in rehearsal.

1:18:561:18:59

There's going to be a fight for these chicken wings.

1:18:591:19:02

There is going to be a fight for these chicken wings,

1:19:021:19:05

but dive in. Tell us what you think of that one, sir.

1:19:051:19:09

-Mix it.

-Don't worry about the egg. Just dive into the chicken wings.

1:19:091:19:13

-They're hot.

-Very hot.

1:19:131:19:15

They're beautiful.

1:19:161:19:18

-Yeah?

-And how simple is that?

1:19:181:19:21

Again, on a day like today, it'd be perfect, do you know what I mean?

1:19:211:19:23

All the lads outside, a few beers, serve these out.

1:19:231:19:26

Don't give out too much, there'll be no chicken wings left.

1:19:261:19:29

I'll fight you for these.

1:19:291:19:30

Perfect party food.

1:19:351:19:36

You should definitely give the chicken wings a go

1:19:361:19:38

whilst the sunshine is out.

1:19:381:19:40

Right, now, when Jessica Hynes came to the studio

1:19:401:19:42

to face her food heaven or food hell,

1:19:421:19:44

she was rooting for rhubarb, but hoping to steer clear of sardines.

1:19:441:19:48

Let's find out what she got.

1:19:481:19:49

Right, it's time to find out whether you've sent Jessica

1:19:491:19:52

to food heaven or food hell.

1:19:521:19:53

Jessica, your version of food heaven

1:19:531:19:55

would be this wonderful rhubarb.

1:19:551:19:57

-The rhubarb rum baba.

-Yeah, the rhubarb rum baba.

1:19:571:20:00

Famous for the rhubarb triangle, based up in Yorkshire.

1:20:001:20:02

South Yorkshire. Wakefield, Halifax and Leeds.

1:20:021:20:05

A lot of the British rhubarb comes from... Most of it, in fact.

1:20:051:20:08

-Which could be served with a classic rhubarb rum baba.

-Right.

1:20:081:20:12

And more roasted rhubarb on the top and a rhubarb cream.

1:20:121:20:15

-Alternatively, you could be having the dreaded sardines.

-Hmm.

1:20:151:20:19

Now, lovely sardines, named after that classic country, Sardinia.

1:20:191:20:22

Beautiful sardines. Rich in Omega 3.

1:20:221:20:25

Delicious grilled, served with Jersey Royal potatoes

1:20:251:20:29

and sauce vierge,

1:20:291:20:30

which is a lovely tomato and lemon and herby-based sauce.

1:20:301:20:33

How do you think the viewers have voted?

1:20:331:20:35

I've no idea. I haven't got a clue

1:20:351:20:36

and, to be honest, I'd eat both of them.

1:20:361:20:39

Delighted to eat both of them.

1:20:391:20:41

Well, at 60% of the votes, it was that...

1:20:411:20:45

-Was that six votes, as well?

-..at one point.

1:20:451:20:47

No, it was, at one point, 60% of the votes,

1:20:471:20:49

-your version of food heaven.

-Right.

1:20:491:20:51

But it's swung round at the last minute.

1:20:511:20:54

-52% of the votes have voted for food hell.

-OK.

1:20:541:20:56

So you've just lost. It's going to be sardines.

1:20:561:20:59

So we'll get rid of that.

1:20:591:21:00

The votes were going up and down throughout the show,

1:21:001:21:03

so, I'm afraid you've got sardines.

1:21:031:21:05

We've got our work cut out creating this dish in five or six minutes.

1:21:051:21:08

So, Tony, we've got some Jersey Royal potatoes here,

1:21:081:21:11

wonderful seasonal veg.

1:21:111:21:12

We were talking about asparagus on the show, as well.

1:21:121:21:15

Wonderful, these Jersey Royal potatoes, which are cooked.

1:21:151:21:17

Always leave the skins on, don't scrub them too much.

1:21:171:21:20

We're going to slice those, then fry them off, a bit of shallot.

1:21:201:21:23

Galton, if you could make me a classic vierge,

1:21:231:21:25

which is tomatoes, which have been deseeded,

1:21:251:21:27

skinned and diced, mixed together with lemon juice,

1:21:271:21:29

a bit of shallot, touch of garlic, herbs like tarragon,

1:21:291:21:32

dill, a little bit of basil, with olive oil and lemon juice,

1:21:321:21:35

so, it is an oil-based sauce. So, we've got our sardines here.

1:21:351:21:38

Now, the way we prep these is pretty straightforward.

1:21:381:21:41

You probably don't like sardines because of the bones.

1:21:411:21:43

-Yes.

-That's the worst thing. I'm going to show you how to do it.

-OK.

1:21:431:21:46

-Grab a knife.

-Yeah.

-There's a way of taking the bones out.

1:21:461:21:50

You always wanted to cook on TV. Now is your chance.

1:21:501:21:52

-What you do is hold fish this way...

-Yeah.

1:21:521:21:54

..press it down on its backbone, like that, right the way down.

1:21:541:21:59

Turn it the other way round and put your finger

1:21:591:22:02

-just underneath the rib cage.

-Yeah.

1:22:021:22:05

The first thing you cook on TV is with fish, anyway,

1:22:051:22:07

-you pull out the rib cage, like that.

-OK.

1:22:071:22:10

-So then you have no bones...

-Do you leave the tail on?

1:22:101:22:13

Yeah, leave the tail on. Can do.

1:22:131:22:15

-Take the head off as well.

-Yeah.

1:22:151:22:17

-And that's one sardine.

-One done.

1:22:171:22:20

And I just lay that flesh down...

1:22:201:22:22

Fish flat on there, and just push it down on its back.

1:22:221:22:25

So, I was going to ask you, James, are a Doctor Who fan?

1:22:291:22:31

I am a bit. I used to be into it, when I was younger.

1:22:311:22:34

I don't get time to watch it nowadays.

1:22:341:22:36

-I know Tony's parents are.

-Yeah.

1:22:361:22:38

-My parents?

-You're doing that quicker than me.

1:22:381:22:41

-Look at that!

-Yeah.

-Fabulous. There we go.

1:22:411:22:44

-Do another one.

-Women's work.

-Keep going.

1:22:441:22:46

There's some washing-up to do, as well, afterwards,

1:22:461:22:49

-if you want to give that a go.

-No problem.

1:22:491:22:51

-So you see how easy it is?

-It is a lot easier.

1:22:511:22:53

The fish is nice and fresh, as well, which I think makes a difference.

1:22:531:22:56

-There you go.

-No problem. I'll do them all.

1:22:561:22:58

-Jessica, just do one more while you're at it.

-Really?

1:22:581:23:01

I'll just go and wash my hands.

1:23:011:23:03

-There we go. She's doing all right.

-Fantastic.

-There we go.

1:23:031:23:07

When you're quiet in your acting, you could work in his restaurant.

1:23:071:23:11

Yeah.

1:23:111:23:12

There you go. Right, lovely. Now wash your hands.

1:23:121:23:15

We don't need any more.

1:23:151:23:16

That's it. I'll keep those to one side.

1:23:161:23:18

-Then we're going to...

-Sorry, how do you do this tap?

1:23:181:23:22

-It's the bowl.

-The bowl?

1:23:221:23:24

The tap doesn't work. Page 1, obvious. The tap doesn't work.

1:23:241:23:28

It looks good.

1:23:281:23:29

So a little bit of olive oil, not too much, you can season these up.

1:23:291:23:34

Now, I don't know about you,

1:23:341:23:36

Galton, I talked to you about sardines earlier this morning.

1:23:361:23:39

-A bit of mustard on here, they're lovely.

-Yeah.

1:23:391:23:41

Now, touch of mustard you can put on there, cracked black pepper.

1:23:411:23:44

Mustard just brushed over the top, English mustard.

1:23:441:23:46

-Nice.

-Delicious.

1:23:461:23:48

These are going to go under the grill straightaway.

1:23:481:23:50

Straight in there. And they'll cook in about 1½ to 2 minutes.

1:23:501:23:54

You don't need to turn them over, as well,

1:23:541:23:56

because they're nice and thin.

1:23:561:23:58

You're grilling them, not just putting them in the oven?

1:23:581:24:00

No, they're grilled. Also, fantastic on a barbecue.

1:24:001:24:02

We mentioned, Tony, you cooking fish on a barbecue.

1:24:021:24:04

Sardines on a barbecue, just delicious.

1:24:041:24:06

-The only way to eat them.

-But I'd really keep those whole.

1:24:061:24:09

Cooking sardines on the barbecue like that...

1:24:091:24:11

And they're not boiled. They're just chopped in half?

1:24:111:24:14

-Boiled first.

-Boiled a little bit? Do you actually boil them...

1:24:141:24:17

Not till they're soft, parboil them?

1:24:171:24:19

-They've just got a slight bite to them now.

-Right, OK.

1:24:191:24:22

And then we're going to fry them off with some butter.

1:24:221:24:24

-We've got some shallots in there.

-Yes, there are shallots.

-Lovely.

1:24:241:24:28

So, I am sweating off a little bit of onion,

1:24:281:24:30

a little bit of garlic in here.

1:24:301:24:32

-This is for her classic little vierge dish.

-Lovely.

1:24:321:24:34

And then our herbs which we've got - tarragon...

1:24:341:24:36

Can I do some more chopping?

1:24:361:24:38

Do you have a big knife? Yeah, fire away.

1:24:381:24:40

I'm just loving this. This is brilliant.

1:24:401:24:42

-That one there...

-Big knife. The knife.

-Big knife. The biggest.

1:24:421:24:45

Where's the big knife? That's a big knife, isn't it?

1:24:451:24:48

Now, in Doctor Who tonight, are you playing a goodie or a baddie?

1:24:481:24:51

I'm playing a goodie. I'm playing a lovely goodie, actually, yes.

1:24:511:24:54

-Right.

-Obviously, I can't give away too much, but I'm playing a goodie,

1:24:541:24:58

and I'm in this week, because it's a two-parter.

1:24:581:25:00

-Apparently it's the scariest ever.

-Is it?

-Well, it's very scary.

1:25:001:25:05

Yeah, but it's a two-parter, so it kind of concludes next week.

1:25:051:25:09

I'm going to show you the common mistake... Eeh!

1:25:091:25:11

..when people chop like this.

1:25:111:25:13

I don't want you to chop your finger off.

1:25:131:25:16

It's easy, chopping.

1:25:161:25:18

I'm chopping fine.

1:25:181:25:19

-Go on, then.

-James.

1:25:191:25:21

How else can you chop?

1:25:211:25:22

You were chopping like this, you see.

1:25:221:25:24

You're chopping like this. Now, that knife just goes straight there,

1:25:241:25:27

you finger has gone, nail has gone. Hands like that. This way.

1:25:271:25:30

But that's so hard. Nobody can ever chop like that.

1:25:301:25:34

You can if you've had 24 years' experience!

1:25:341:25:37

No-one chops like that.

1:25:371:25:39

I'm glad it's you saying that.

1:25:391:25:41

Do you know what? I'll chop.

1:25:411:25:44

A little bit like this, OK?

1:25:441:25:46

It's easier, but it's not...

1:25:461:25:48

What's the point of that? What's the reasoning behind that chopping?

1:25:481:25:51

I always wanted to know. Is it just because it looks clever?

1:25:511:25:54

-No, it's because I just want my fingers.

-Right, OK.

1:25:541:25:57

There you go.

1:25:571:25:59

OK. I'm suitably impressed. I can't chop like that.

1:26:011:26:04

-Right.

-A few herbs straight in there. OK.

1:26:061:26:09

Now, we have got in here shallot sweated off, a touch of garlic,

1:26:091:26:12

herbs. If you could dress me some salad, that would be great, Galton.

1:26:121:26:15

I brought this in specially for you. This is out of my own garden.

1:26:151:26:19

-Ooh, nice.

-This was picked last night.

1:26:191:26:20

I've got rid of the slugs, but don't worry about that.

1:26:201:26:22

That's gone in there. So, the herbs, classic vierge sauce.

1:26:221:26:26

Something's burning.

1:26:261:26:28

-It's...

-Ohh!

1:26:291:26:31

They're not burnt. They're not burnt,

1:26:331:26:35

-they're perfectly cooked.

-That's hilarious.

1:26:351:26:38

Ohh!

1:26:381:26:40

Don't worry about those, they're fine.

1:26:401:26:42

Right, um...

1:26:441:26:45

Where's your smoke alarm?

1:26:451:26:46

-We haven't got one.

-No smoke alarm here?

1:26:461:26:49

If that had been my house,

1:26:491:26:50

five minutes ago there would have been a "beep, beep, beep"!

1:26:501:26:53

Jessica, what you need to do is, cook these on quite a high heat...

1:26:531:26:56

You've actually warped the pan.

1:26:561:26:58

Don't worry about that.

1:26:581:26:59

We haven't got a tap, so don't worry about the pan!

1:26:591:27:02

They do look fine, actually. They don't look burnt.

1:27:021:27:05

I'm sure they're delicious.

1:27:051:27:06

-They're not burnt. They're lovely.

-Yeah.

1:27:061:27:08

-They're just slightly overcooked.

-Do I have to eat them?

1:27:081:27:11

Right, Tony, save me here.

1:27:111:27:14

See, this is what happens

1:27:141:27:15

-when somebody else chops your herbs, you see?

-OK.

1:27:151:27:18

Right, that idea is, we line the potatoes up...

1:27:201:27:22

We should put the potatoes on the top to cover up the sardines.

1:27:221:27:25

The sardines will be perfect.

1:27:251:27:27

I don't what all this stress is about.

1:27:271:27:28

-They're perfect.

-Flame-grilled sardines.

1:27:281:27:31

They look delicious.

1:27:311:27:33

-Just perfect, look at that.

-They will be fine.

1:27:331:27:35

I'm just getting in the way, aren't I?

1:27:351:27:38

Now, Jessica, grab your knife and fork

1:27:381:27:40

and try some of these in a second.

1:27:401:27:42

OK, where's my knife and fork? Over here.

1:27:421:27:44

Tony, just don't give her a cook's knife.

1:27:441:27:47

Right...

1:27:471:27:49

Hold on a second. Hold on in a second.

1:27:511:27:54

-Right, line these up...

-OK.

1:27:541:27:56

-And then that...

-Goes on there.

1:27:581:28:01

-Drizzle over the top.

-That lovely salad.

1:28:011:28:04

Oh, can I try some of that salad? What's the dressing on the salad?

1:28:041:28:07

Just balsamic and olive oil.

1:28:071:28:08

-No salt and pepper?

-Try them.

-OK, I'll try them. OK, lovely.

1:28:081:28:12

-Oops!

-Slightly crusty sardines.

1:28:121:28:15

They are actually perfect.

1:28:151:28:17

I'm not quite sure where the flames came from,

1:28:171:28:19

-because there's no charring at all.

-Go on, then. Try those.

1:28:191:28:22

-What do you reckon?

-That is really nice.

1:28:241:28:27

-That is delicious.

-You like that?

1:28:271:28:29

Do you think it helps when you just sort of flame-grill them?

1:28:291:28:33

-That's perfect.

-There you go, guys.

1:28:331:28:35

It is a bit bony, though.

1:28:351:28:37

Well, that's you. You did them all. I'm not getting the blame for that.

1:28:371:28:40

They are delicious.

1:28:401:28:42

Dive in. It's nice, isn't it?

1:28:421:28:44

Particularly with the sauce vierge.

1:28:441:28:46

It goes well with chicken and fish and prawns.

1:28:461:28:49

Maybe we should have this in pint glasses!

1:28:491:28:52

Just remember, next time turn your grill down a little bit.

1:28:521:28:55

And just in case you were worried,

1:28:591:29:01

no chefs were hurt in the making of those sardines.

1:29:011:29:03

Just the top of the oven and maybe James's eyebrows.

1:29:031:29:05

Anyway, that's all we've got time for.

1:29:051:29:07

I hope you've enjoyed taking a look at some of the delicious dishes

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that have featured on Saturday Kitchen over the years.

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I know I have. Thanks for watching. See next week.

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