19/11/2017 Saturday Kitchen Best Bites

Good morning. We've got a packed show for you, full of your favourite chefs, hungry celebrities

and some classic moments from Rick Stein and Keith Floyd.

So, put off those household chores, grab yourself a cuppa,

and settle in for another helping of Saturday Kitchen Best Bites.

Welcome to the show. Now, we've been digging through the Saturday Kitchen archives to

bring you some of the best moments from years gone by.

Coming up, Broadchurch star Joe Sims ticks in to pork

poached in milk, served with cavolo nero.

French chef Stephane Reynaud serves up roasted salmon.

He makes a filling of salmon, prawns, shallots, parsley

and cream, before sandwiching it between two salmon fillets

and serving it alongside stir-fried sprouts.

Tom Kerridge is cooking venison T bone.

He pan fries the venison

and cures red cabbage with juniper berries, before using mashed

potato to make pancakes, all served up with a red wine and clove sauce.

Two of Cornwall's top chefs battle it out in the Saturday Kitchen

Omelette Challenge, as Nathan Outlaw takes on Paul Ainsworth.

And then it's over to Stephen Terry,

who is serving up a sophisticated brunch.

He's cooking a confit duck hash, using duck legs, duck livers,

onions and potatoes, served with celeriac and radish salad

and a fried duck egg on top.

And finally funnyman Paddy McGuinness

faces his food heaven or his food hell. Will he get his food heaven?

bourbon glazed sticky ribs, with coleslaw and baked potatoes -

or his food hell Chicken liver parfait with spice apple chutney and melba toast.

You'll have to wait till the end of the show to find out.

But first up, Nick Nairn is here with a dish that couldn't be

more Scottish.

As well as running a cooking school and a catering company, writing numerous books

and appearing on Ready Steady Cook with me, he's found time to

also cook for the Queen last year on the Great British Menu.

Not bad for a bloke

and a young lad who started their career in the Navy.

-A young lad, I love that, James.

-Mr Nick Nairn.

I cannot believe you started life in the Navy. I didn't know that.

-Yeah, but not as a chef, as a navigator.

-Right.

-I was driving the boats.

-Were you?

-Yeah.

And it's kind of where I discovered food

because my dad was a very sort of plain eater, so I was brought up

-on roast meat, poached salmon, pheasant, but no herbs. Very, very straightforward.

-OK.

-We've got some beautiful beef fillet here.

-What's the dish that we're doing?

You can see that marbling through it and the dark colouring?

If you poke your finger in it, that dent stays in it.

That's been properly hung.

I'm just going to cut this into two medallions, or collops,

-as we call them in Scotland.

-This is going to be with what?

We're going to do them with a whisky and mushroom sauce. The mushrooms are ceps. And we'll have a little

bit of wilted spinach and we've got some little new potatoes.

-I'll get you to crush them down...

-Lovely.

-..if you don't mind.

-In fact, actually, this is really why I'm here, James.

-Why's that?

Because you're going to commie for me.

This is the first and only time you get to do this.

-My kitchen slave for the morning.

-Tell us about Aberdeen beef.

Aberdeen Angus. Cos it's a native breed to Scotland but it's bred everywhere,

isn't it, now?

Well, I mean, the Scots exported Angus out to Argentina

and from Argentina, it came back all over the world.

And the thing about native breeds, it roams extensively,

it feeds on grass. They don't like being inside in the winter time.

They like to stay out and stay on the grass,

which I think develops the flavour. And they grow a little bit

more slowly, so that allows time for the flavour to develop.

And I think it's night and day.

One of the things that always gives away native beef is

the size of the fillet.

-If that was a continental, it would be much bigger.

-Much bigger, yeah.

Wouldn't have the same flavour. And this is a very simple dish, James.

This is a saute, so you've got one pan for the beef frying pan,

a little bit of oil in there. Chuck in the beef.

Let it have a nice sizzle, get a bit of colour on the outside.

This caramelisation's really important,

to get that fried up nicely. Could you clear away...? Thanks.

Now, you mentioned Aberdeen Angus being a native breed.

-Another one to Scotland is obviously the Highland.

-Highland!

Which is the big longhorn fella.

They look fantastic on the postcards. Taste better in the pan.

I think that's where they're meant to be.

So we're just going to flip those over.

And get them coloured up nicely on either side.

This caramelisation, as I was starting to say, really,

really important. That's the thing that develops the flavours.

And look at these mushrooms. Wild mushrooms, cep mushrooms.

And do you remember when you came up to visit, to the cook school?

I did, yeah. I remember rowing out on that boat of yours.

-Still hasn't got a motor, has it?

-No. We can't afford a motor, James.

We're not like you, mate.

You get these, just coming towards the end of the season now...

But these, we literally get them,

as you know, a couple of hundred yards from our back door.

And ceps, they have got a lovely kind of meaty texture to them,

as well as that wonderful mushroomy flavour.

When we go mushroom picking, it's advisable to get a book,

-isn't it, really? Because if you get the wrong ones...

-Absolutely.

-..it's not good.

-Yeah, yeah.

Ceps, these penny buns, they're pretty much foolproof,

but there are lots of other ones...

Chanterelle, you can get them confused with the False Chanterelle.

And there are some really dodgy ones out there.

There's ones that'll kill you.

Now, Mr Aikens, you're a big fan of French food.

-They use a lot of ceps out there, don't they?

-I am indeed, yes.

I have ceps on the menu at the moment.

This is a cep tart with a cep ravioli. It's lovely.

Lovely. Very strong as well, but really nice, yeah.

-Lovely.

-Now, James, could you make me some crushed potatoes?

-I've just drained the new potatoes.

-Right.

Into a bowl, a little bit of butter, so as you just break the potatoes,

the butter just gets absorbed in, chop some parsley, just fold it

through. Leave a bit of texture in there.

Thank you very much. I woke up this morning to make mashed potato.

-Thanks a lot(!)

-It's not mash.

-It's crushed potatoes.

-Crushed potatoes.

-Exactly, yeah.

-OK.

-Sounds a bit more interesting than mashed.

-It's a texture thing that's important in that.

-Yeah. OK.

Now, I like beef really nice and pink.

-I don't like to have beef overcooked.

-Yeah.

So, that's enough colour on the outside.

The beef's still nice and tender inside.

So I'll just take it out of the pan. We'll toss those mushrooms round.

A little bit of whisky in here.

In fact, a fairly generous amount of whisky.

-Kind of(!)

-Burn off the alcohol. Concentrates the flavours.

A little bit of stock. This is just ordinary chicken stock.

If you had beef stock, that would be fantastic.

I believe the Scots translate whisky meaning water of life,

is that right?

-Uisce beatha, water of life, yeah.

-Water of life. There you go.

-And it is fabulous stuff. Taken in moderation, James.

-That's it.

-Did we drink some whisky when you came up?

-No, we didn't actually,

but I was up there for this cookery school of yours.

It's expanded and expanded. Tell us a bit about that.

-Fascinating place.

-Well, it started off quiet sort of low key.

We only had space for eight people. We now have space for 20.

-Yeah.

-Run seven days a week. And we're packed out.

And in fact, it's got to the stage now where I think we're going

to have to open another one to take up the overspill.

Have you got the salt? There's the salt there. Season the spinach.

-And, so are you going to come back again?

-I will come back.

-You're too busy now.

-My Saturdays have gone for the rest of my life,

-I think.

-You're too famous now.

-Oh, come on, man!

-Yay.

So you're going to come back up again?

-Yeah?

-Yeah, private jet.

-Helicopter.

Get on the train, like I did before. Right,

-OK, so a little bit of just dry heat for the spinach.

-Just dry heat.

There's enough water on the outside of the spinach just to wilt

it down, so just take that off, that's that finished.

If you could put that in to a ring in the centre of the plate there.

Just pack it into there. Lift it off and that leaves a nice little neat

pile in the centre of the plate.

You chefs, your rings and your squeezy bottles.

Yeah, I know, James. You could just dollop it on, it doesn't really make

-that much difference.

-You could easily just dollop it on.

-You left the meat to rest just nicely, yeah?

-Yeah.

Any juices that come off that... A little bit more seasoning in there.

Any juices, pour them back in. I hate to see meat juices going to

waste. So we just pour them back into the pan.

Pop them to one side there. Take that off, it's done.

A tiny little bit more stock in there.

Just let that down, it's a bit thick.

-Is that enough?

-That's very nicely done, James. Well done.

-Is it?

-Is that all right?

-Yeah. You should stick at this.

-You might get a career out of it.

-Thank you very much. There you go.

-So...

-Right, there you go.

You've got the potatoes in the bottom, and take a nice

bit of this spinach and I love the combination of beef and spinach.

It's one of my favourite vegetables, spinach.

A hell of a job getting my kids to eat it though.

They're not too keen on the...

I think it's the flavour of it, rather than the appearance,

they're not so keen on.

And then those medallions, just sit them on top, like so.

And then we plate the sauce, the mushrooms just round

the outside of the plate. You don't have to do that.

You could just chuck on the plate because it's going to speak

for itself. It's got the meatiness,

it's got that rich caramelisation on the outside.

It's got the creaminess of the sauce and it's got that fantastic flavour.

-A little bit more cream?

-Just a little bit of stock, or cream.

-Whichever. There we go. Thanks.

-There you go.

I love these silicon spatulas. That's it. Ta.

Because you can scrape every last little bit out of the pan

and look at that there, look.

See, people fling that out. Get it in there!

Once a Scot, always a Scot. There you go!

Scrape the pattern off the plate!

-You can take the boy out of Scotland...

-Exactly.

..but you can't take the Scot out of the boy.

And just a little bit over and around, like so.

And just clean that plate off a little bit. Thank you very much.

-And that really is it, James.

-Remind us what that is again.

It's a simple saute.

That's peppered medallions of fillet beef, wilted spinach,

crushed potatoes, and a whisky and mushroom sauce.

There you go. Not bad for a guy who started life in the Navy.

Right, follow me.

The true test is in the eating.

-Tom, you get fed on this show.

-Very exciting.

-Ten o'clock in the morning though.

-Wow!

-There you go, dive in.

-Is this for me?

-Well, it's not all for you!

-To share.

-Sharing is caring.

But what other things could work particularly well with ceps?

Chicken is the one that springs to mind.

Chicken and cep works brilliantly together.

But this is the whole concept of a saute. One pan to wash up.

You know, you keep all the caramelisation in the pan,

all the flavours get picked up into the sauce.

-You could do a vegetarian one.

-What about venison?

-Game's coming in season.

-The great thing about venison, of course,

-is it never really goes out of season.

-Farmed now.

No, because the species change. You've got the different kinds of deer and you've got the hinds

and the roes and there's always one of them in season. So yeah, venison would be tremendous with that.

-Big fan?

-A good bit of beef, that.

-A good bit of beef.

I don't really like creamy sauces but that worked. It's really sort of lifted up by the...

-The ceps.

-The spinach goes really well.

-The texture's ever so good. It's a really nice dish.

-Dive in, Tom. Tell us what you think.

-Beautifully crushed potatoes, James.

I think the potatoes really make it. Nicely seasoned potatoes, you see? That's what it is.

Gave it that final touch.

Ceps go so well in dishes, not just with that, I mean, omelettes.

I love cep mushrooms and in fact, if you've got beautiful mushrooms, we were out picking them,

just in a pan, little bit of butter, little bit of garlic. Fabulous.

Mr Aikens, what do you think of that? Thumbs up.

From being in the Navy to being in the Saturday Kitchen studio,

I'm not sure which one's more stressful.

Coming up, James Martin cooks milk poached pork for Joe Sims, but first, it's over to Rick Stein,

who is enjoying fresh spaghetti in Sicily.

The soil around Etna is extremely rich

and the lemons grown round here are world famous and so is the granita.

A real Sicilian delicacy,

made by Aurelio Licata in the town of Sciacca.

HE SPEAKS ITALIAN

He says the secret of a good granita is to have lemons

that are a little green because the young,

just ripe lemons have that fresh taste from the acidity in them.

And also, the young lemons give off a perfume.

He says his machines may look a bit old,

but they treat the lemons very gently and don't break the skins.

He only wants the juice and not the mashed up pith.

Then, the lemon juice is mixed with sugar and a little water

and poured into this wonderful machine.

Sicily is home of ices in the Western world.

But they say it was the Arabs who gave them

the inspiration, with their ice cold sharbats or sherbets.

Granita is much grainier, which is what granita means, than a sorbet.

I just love watching this, as the icy shavings turn to slurry,

which gets thicker and creamier, until it's time to serve.

I think a lemon granita is an Italian icon,

up there with Mario Lanza, Caponata, and the motor scooter.

Now, do you remember this?

Richard Dimbleby's little film took the country by surprise

on April 1st 50 years ago.

This was a time when we knew so little about food.

'The last two weeks of March

'are an anxious time for the spaghetti farmer.

'There's always the chance of a late frost, which, while not entirely

'ruining the crop, generally impairs the flavour,

'and makes it difficult for him to obtain top prices in world markets.

'Many people are often puzzled by the fact that spaghetti is

'produced at such uniform length,

'but this is the result of many years of patient endeavour by plant

'breeders, who've succeeded in producing the perfect spaghetti.'

Well, it was April Fool's Day, but so many people believed it.

It was from the days when Italian restaurants in London had

signs outside saying, "We serve spaghetti, but not on toast!"

I'm going towards the centre of Sicily to see how spaghetti

is made, heading towards the town of Corleone, famous for being

the home of the Mafia Don played by Marlon Brando in The Godfather.

I would have come here anyway, spaghetti factory or not,

because of this landscape.

People could hide and never be found for years.

Before I came here, I imagined it to be barren, rocky scrubland,

and yet it's very fertile and green.

It's funny walking about.

You can't help but think that every old man you see on the street corner

is a retired Mafia Don, living in a palazzo in luxurious retirement.

In Corleone, everything is Mafia.

And everybody comes to Corleone because Mafia, sir.

Fine, and everybody talks like Mafia people?

Yes, of course, because when you come here,

you become Mafia like us, sir.

Well, that was very illuminating.

I just popped in for a beer and got a dissertation.

But this is what I came to see.

This old spaghetti factory has been churning out

pasta for over 100 years.

I've always wanted to see how proper pasta's made, so, I mean, it just

looks wonderful, just cascading down like that, and the smell!

All I'm thinking, because it's just before lunch

is "pomodoro sauce," is tomato sauce - that's all I'd want, nothing more.

The smell of that fresh wheat is absolutely wonderful.

I'm just thinking...

Many, many years in the kitchens of my restaurant

I used one of those little tiny pasta machines,

and we used to dry the pasta on broom handles all over the kitchen!

That's the sort of thing I needed.

It's just made with durum wheat and water, nothing more.

So THAT'S how it all becomes the same length.

Mussolini, the fascist dictator,

tried to change the Italian diet,

and wanted to stop the population eating so much pasta

because he thought it made them sluggish and lazy.

Needless to say, he didn't achieve his goal.

Earlier, I mentioned Pasta Alla Norma.

It's a classic Sicilian pasta named after Bellini's opera, Norma.

Bellini was Sicilian, as you probably gather.

Anyway, first, slice aubergines

and cover in salt to take out the moisture.

Dry in a teacloth.

Ideally, you want to do this half an hour before you fry them.

The opera Norma was apparently a huge hit, and the word Norma

became synonymous with something that was really good.

Toss them in a pan of hot olive oil.

Give them a good searing

and then set them aside.

Chop and crush some garlic and some salt,

and fry that off in the same oil.

Add some chilli flakes and chopped tomatoes...

..and then put in the ever-so-slightly fried aubergines.

I know it's ANOTHER vegetarian pasta

dish, but Sicily's famous for them.

They've got such great sun-ripened vegetables.

Crumble in some cheese. I'm using feta.

In Sicily, the chefs seem to prefer Caciocavallo - those yellow,

pear-like cheeses that hang from the rafters.

Tear up some basil and put in the spaghetti

and toss it around, and serve.

Dishes like this hark back to a time when Sicily was a poor country

and everyone had to use what was in season.

Now, you might take the view that this is poor people's food,

or you could say it's a splendid celebration of the aubergine,

the tomato, cheese and olive oil.

FORK CLATTERS

-Now, that pasta looked delicious.

-Mmm.

Rick's dish was a celebration of all the great ingredients from Sicily.

Now, we of course like to champion British

produce here on Saturday Kitchen, or I do, anyway!

And the one thing that never seems to get any attention,

and certainly as much as it should get,

and praise it deserves, is our dairy farmers.

They're feeling the big strain at the moment,

so I shall show you a great recipe to show you how to use milk

in different ways, and not just on your cereals or in your cup of tea.

I'm going to cook pork in milk.

And it's poached pork in milk, but you've got the crackling with

it, as well, so you've got the best of both worlds.

Keeps it lovely and moist, you've got a nice sauce at the end of it.

Then there's this wonderful crackling over the top.

I'm going to serve that with a little bit of cavalo nero.

The first thing I'm going to do is prep up the garlic.

We got garlic, we got lemon, got some sage, obviously,

full-fat British milk, and then some good old British spuds, as well.

We're just going to peel those and throw those in.

So I'm going to seal off the pork first of all.

-I don't know about milk, though.

-You don't know about milk?

-Well, no.

I got chased around by me milkman, and he covered me in milk and cream

and I thought, "How DAIRY!"

THEY LAUGH

Oh, that's a dad joke, that's a dad joke! I thought I'd give it a try.

-Was that a dad joke?

-Yeah.

Now, tell us about Broadchurch, then,

cos you've always wanted to act.

Getting a call like that must have been fantastic,

-but at the same time, you don't realise how popular it's going to be.

-No.

I mean, no-one knew,

but the incendiary writing from Chris Chibnall in the first

series, um, like, you know, we got the feeling, collectively,

that we were involved in something quite special,

and we just hoped that would bear out in the viewing figures,

which it fortunately did.

It was something that the British public took to their hearts, so...

I mean, it did grip the whole nation, because you know...

Ken's looking there, going, "What on earth is Broadchurch?" Got no idea.

Aw! Blimey!

And I've followed your career for yonks, as well! How dare you!

ALL LAUGH

But it's based...

-Tell us about it, cos it's based on one particular story, so...

-Yeah.

It's, er, what happens is a 12-year-old boy gets found washed up

on the beach of a very small seaside community,

and then it's, what follows is, this community that kind of falls

in upon itself, a community that was previously very, very tight.

They all of a sudden start pointing the finger,

as this whodunnit kind of, er, rolls on, for eight hours.

-But also...

-I'm a bit biased, I really like it.

People following it were intrigued,

but also the cast were intrigued as well,

cos not even the cast knew who'd done it, as well.

That's exactly right. I've never worked that way before, but what had happened, essentially,

is we would get the episodes two episodes at a time.

And what the director would say was, "If there's something

"that's integral to your character, then you'll find out as you go."

-Yeah.

-So every now and again you'd see, like, Olivia Colman getting

pulled to one side, or Arthur Darvill getting pulled to one side,

or I get pulled to one side, and the director'll whisper

to you and you're like, "What have they told you?"

So we'd be in the pub going, "What have you learnt about your character?"

And so, actually, we're very secretive, like, off set as well as on set.

We got, um, in the costume truck, actually, er, everybody had...

-Do you have different writers for each...?

-Different writers?

No, we had one writer, Chris Chibnall.

And, um, and we had pictures of all of us in the costume truck,

and everybody, cast and crew, had to put a star by the person that they thought had done it.

-At one point everybody thought you'd done it.

-I got it wrong.

-Everybody thought you'd done it, at one point, as well?

-I just think it's disgusting.

-Because I'm bald with a West Country accent and...

-ALL LAUGH

..a bit scary looking. It's another form of racism, innit, baldism?

Cos, wasn't it...? I was reading a lot about you yesterday, and wasn't...

-That must have been a fun day for you!

-Well, no, cos, yeah, yeah!

I have to do it anyway, cos it's part of my job,

but your, your, your accent, as well, particularly the story...

-The story...

-Have you noticed the twang? Yeah.

-I've kind of noticed it.

But your accent in America. Of course, you studied in San Francisco, cos...

..you thought that was, that was going to be, well, a negative, really.

I wasn't... Maybe I didn't have the courage of my convictions that

I had at the time, and I got a scholarship to go

and study out in the States, um, and there was these three gorgeous

girls that came in for my first, er...my first...seminar, and...

-I didn't read about this bit, but go on, carry on.

-Well, they...

-..they sit down. I'm talking to...

-That's censored, that's censored.

I'm sorry, my lovely girlfriend's here,

so I apologise, you're hearing this for the first time.

But anyhow, um, yeah, these girls come in, and they're like,

"Who's the smart guy doing the British accent?" and I was like, "Yeah, that's me,"

and she was like, "It's not very good." I was like, "OK."

And so, anyway, the professor comes in and introduces me as, like,

"Joe Sims, all the way from London, England. He's going to be with us for the semester."

And you can just see their jaws dropping,

and I went outside to, er, like, you know, just to get a refreshment,

and they come out and they're like, "Say something in British."

And the first thing that came to me was not my Bristolian accent,

cos I don't think anyone wants, like, a farmer looming toward them...

OTHERS LAUGH

..so instead I went for a close approximation of Hugh Grant.

OTHERS LAUGH

And I stuck with that for the entire semester, so, apologies, Bristol.

I'm ashamed of meself, but I'm a reformed character now.

But coming back to the UK, you know, Broadchurch with the second

series is, it's coming on to our screens early next year?

Er, yeah, it's going to be out in January on ITV,

so if you get the chance...

Well, you two have got to watch the first series first, and then...

I want to get the series when it's out on DVD.

We'll get a DVD over to you for sure.

But as well as that you've got a big drama that's,

it's going to be a hard-hitting drama. Tell us about it.

That's right. It's called The Lost Honour Of Christopher Jefferies.

He, probably for those people watching was the man that was

falsely accused and pilloried in the press for the murder of Joanna Yeates.

And as a Bristolian, I'm, like, you know,

it's something that was very, very important to us all

to tell that story very sensitively and well,

and when I met Roger Michell, the director,

he had like a vision of the utmost sensitivity, and, er...

That's going to be out, again, on ITV.

And if that wasn't enough, you're busy doing, what's this, the, the kids' programme as well?

Cos you're going from Broadchurch to this!

Well, after the unrelenting darkness of Broadchurch,

there has to be a little bit of light in my life, so I get to, er...

Yeah, it's cathartic to play Chuganeer Fletch on Broadchurch,

not on Broadchurch, um, on Chuggington, I should say!

Yeah. Um, yeah, so Chuganeer Fletch is this lovely train that talks

about caring and sharing and things are heating up for him,

because he's got a, he's got a lovely young lady called

Chuganeer Tyne, who's a gorgeous little Aztec train, and, er...

THEY LAUGH

..it's going to be out on CBeebies in January!

And the six- to eight-year-old demographic are starting to bubble with excitement!

-So, er, yeah, should be very good.

-I think it might gain a lot more viewers after today.

-Fingers crossed!

-Right, just going to run through what I've done.

I've just basically caramelised the fat on the pork here. I've fried...

-Sorry, I've been chatting about me. How have you been?

-All right.

-Been all right, just been busy chopping things...

-Yeah, I know, sorry!

-..as I do normally.

-The lemon rind and the garlic has gone in here.

-Right.

-And then what we do is take the full-fat milk

and then throw that in as well.

Now, this will separate, OK?

This will split, and the whole point about it, it splits,

but it also keeps it lovely and moist.

-So you put the lemon juice in.

-Right.

-The lemon rind's gone in there as well.

The pork, I've got this loin of pork, British pork, of course,

that you've caramelised the top to get a little bit of colour on it to start with.

The cavolo nero, this is called black cabbage.

-I've never heard of it!

-Well, it's this stuff. You can grow it in the garden.

-OK.

-But it's, supermarkets, they'll sell it.

And all you do is, you emulsify butter and water together, really.

You don't boil it, but butter and water together will be enough.

It creates a nice little sauce which you season with black pepper, bit of salt.

-Takes very, very quick time to cook.

-Smells lovely.

-So I'll throw the lemons in.

Make sure you know which is the lemons and which are the potatoes, obviously, for obvious...

THEY LAUGH

-..reasons - big mouthful of those!

-Like Russian roulette.

-We've got some sage.

It's quite a strong herb, so you put it in at the beginning of cooking, hardly ever at the end,

and then pop the pork on.

Now what you need to do is then bake this in the oven.

This is where... You put it in the oven about 350 degrees Fahrenheit,

so about 160 degrees centigrade, something like that.

-For how long?

-170. It wants to go in for a good hour and a half.

-Right.

-Um, and you don't need to keep basting it.

It just goes in the oven for an hour and a half, shut the oven,

and then kind of forget about it, as well, really.

And you've got this pork that we've got on here.

So I'm just going to wash my hands,

and then lift this pork out and then slice it.

But you've got, it's very different to the norm.

You've got this wonderful sort of pork,

this lovely sauce with the cooked potatoes with it, as well,

and then the cavalo nero also with it.

-Now...

-Salivating!

..now, if your life wasn't busy enough, you've got to tell me about this sort of thing, cos

I was reading about it yesterday, as well, about acting with your mother.

-Ha-ha!

-Tell me the story of how that happened, cos this is...

-Well...

I run a very, kind of,

a very boutique acting agency for middle-aged Bristolian women.

I've got one client and she's constantly in work,

she's a recurring character on ITV's very successful drama,

Broadchurch, her name's Anne Sims, and she happens to be me mum.

-Right.

-Um... Lovely lady!

-But how did that come about?

She, er, well, basically, er, when Nige had his house,

we went to like go and see Nigel Carter's house, my character

in Broadchurch, er, it kept saying, like, "NS, non-speaking, Nige's mum".

-Yeah.

-And I just thought to myself, "Well..."

I went to speak to the director and I was like,

"Have you got, like, you know, a supporting artist to play my ma?"

"Because I need pictures of me all over the place in the house

"to make it look like my house." I was like, "If you want a lady to play my ma..."

-Get your mum!

-"..why don't you get my mum? She'll lend you her photos."

And he went, "Is she act, can she act?" And I said, "Well, no, she works down Asda,

"but if she's not speaking she'll be all right."

ALL LAUGH

Um, so you know, she was, um, she was,

she was whisked from the produce counter on to,

er, on to Broadchurch, and she's never looked back cos, er,

she's going to be in series two.

Although, right, when she got out... In series two, we'd just finished doing a scene...

Is it funny to see your mum...?

Well, I mean, yeah. She, she does very, very well though, I think.

In the first series, um, she watches me get arrested.

And, er, oh, I mean, she takes it like a champion,

I thought she did some fantastic acting.

I would say she's arguably better than me.

But the thing was, anyway, she got out the car when we were filming

series two, and she sees Olivia Colman, and she went,

"There she is, there's my co-star!"

ALL LAUGH

And I was like, "I dunno about that."

When my mum gets four BAFTAs, then maybe they can chat.

But they're very good friends.

-Well, you've embarrassed her now live on TV, anyway.

-Sorry, ma!

-There's your pork. Now, it will separate, and this is what it's all about.

-OK.

You don't worry about this, but you have it as a sauce as well. The pork stays lovely and moist as well.

-OK.

-But dive in with that, the cavalo nero.

It's, the Italians cook it quite a bit this way,

but cooking it in the milk with the lemon and the sage,

and then the potatoes cook as well, with that black cabbage, I

just think it's a great, simple dish, and you've got the crackling on top.

Oh, simple but very effective. That is absolutely belting!

-You like that one?

-Mmm!

A belting dish from James, there. And I can't wait for that new

Olivia Colman and Anne Sims drama to hit our screens any time soon.

Plenty more to come on today's show,

but first it's over to Stephane Reynaud,

who's serving up a salmon sandwich.

It's a pleasure to have him back, Stephane Reynaud.

-Great to have you back on the show, boss.

-Thank you very much for inviting me.

-Yeah, I love it every time you're on cos...

-To cook something which is not pork, so that's unusual for me!

-Very unusual for you, because you're mainly famous for, obviously, the book on pork.

-Yes.

-But there's been several books after that.

-Yeah.

-But what are we cooking there?

-It's a recipe of my new book which is, er, Rotis.

-Rotis.

-It's roast for every day - so, on Friday, you have fish.

-Right. So...

-So this is roast.

-..everything in the oven, roast?

-Yeah.

-You should enjoy roasts a lot more.

So, what's the main part of this? Obviously salmon, but we've got prawns in here.

So, with the salmon, yes, we have prawns. We have shallots.

We have eggs. We have pastis.

-Pastis, yeah.

-You know, the French liqueur.

-Yeah.

-We have aniseed here.

-Yeah.

-Butter, and then we're going to make...

-Sorry, the prawns too.

-Yeah.

-And the Brussels sprouts...?

THEY LAUGH AT HIS ACCENT Brussels "sprutts"! So...

-So, first things first.

-..could you help me with the shallots?

You want me to chop the shallots. And I'll chop some parsley, OK?

-Great. Not all the parsley.

-What we're making is like a little sandwich, is that right?

-Yes, I'm going to make a "farce" with the salmon.

-Yeah.

So we put the salmon in the processor.

Now, you've been busy, last time you were on,

-because you mentioned your book, new book, Rotis, which is out now...

-Yeah.

..but in France you've got another books that's just come out as well.

Yes, I've done another book. It's

365 Good Reasons To Spend Time Around The Table.

And the first one is?

-Love food, have friends.

-And the last one?

Love food and have friends, too.

That's it! Right.

It's a circle, so you know, you start and you finish around the table.

-Sounds good to me, yeah. Sounds good to me.

-So I hope to come back with my new book!

Now, the thing about your books that I find, they're always unique in the way that they're put

together, because not only are the recipes great, but the way that the book's put together -

-either photographs, cos there are a lot of your family in there...

-Yes.

-I love to have my friend on my books, you know?

-Yeah.

I love to spend time around the table with friends, so that's why.

-But a lot of drawings, as well, that you just...

-Yes.

-..drawings that you...

-It's a good friend who makes the drawing for me.

-Right.

We always make the books together, so..

Anything for a free lunch, is that what it is?

-Sorry?

-Anything for a free lunch!

-Yeah.

-Yeah.

-Actually, that's true.

-So eggs going in there?

-Yes, and put the parsley, too.

-Yeah.

I'm saving some of the parsley till later, but we got that.

-You just want this blending up, do you?

-Yes, please.

-OK.

-And then we're going to put a bit of cream.

-OK. So a little bit of cream goes in there.

-Yeah. Not, not too much.

-OK.

Just a little bit.

OK. Salt...

-..and pepper.

-Now what you've done is take the...

So I put the pastis on the salmon...

-Yeah.

-..before I removed the fish bones.

-Yeah.

So, and then we're going to put the "farce" on the top.

-It's pretty easy to fix.

-So I'll just pop that on there.

-Great.

-Thank you.

-So then...

-I have nothing to do. That's great!

-It's all right. Well, there you go. That can sit on there.

-Thank you.

-Now, the prawns, you're just going to sprinkle those on the top, then?

-Yeah.

-Yeah.

We're going to put the prawns on the pan after the salmon.

Now, there's a great...

-So...

-..French name for doing this, what's, what it is?

-"La farce".

-La farce.

-La farce.

-Yeah.

But that's the stuffing. What do you do, what do you call it when you put it on the top?

-Is there a name when you top anything?

-I... The prawns, great.

-Yeah.

-Great. And then the sandwich is ready to be cooked.

-Yeah.

-But you've sliced the salmon as well, haven't you?

-Yes, for the pastis. Right. OK.

-So it just sort of absorbs in...

-Yes.

-..there? All right.

-Tie it up.

-Yeah.

-So, and as well your bistro...

-Yes.

..just outside of Paris. Anywhere that's...

-It's in Montreuil, it's five minutes from Paris.

-Which is east?

-East area.

-Right.

So it's, um, it's a bistro.

It's very funny, it's like a haunted house, my restaurant.

You know? It's between, er...between

trees, a big building, it's...

-You should come there.

-Yeah, I'd love to. There you go.

I know that you go very often in Paris to see good chef.

I do, I do like Paris, yeah.

-So, please come and visit me.

-I will.

Anything for a fre lunch, obviously!

-I'll come!

-You want to come as well?!

Be careful, there is always sprouts.

-Each meal is sprouts.

-Oh, no, the dilemma!

-And there's always pork on the menu.

-Yeah!

-Sprouts and sprouts and sprouts.

-Anyway! Right, in there?

-So in the pot.

-So this goes...just, just a little bit of colour on here?

-Yeah.

-Now, like you say...

-For two minutes.

-..the secret of a...

..I mean, the good roast dinners, and that kind of stuff...

-It's to be...

-Enjoyed by everybody, innit, really?

-Yeah.

Um, you know, you can put it in the middle of your table,

if you are four people on a table or ten people, doesn't matter,

-you put little slices or big slices.

-Yeah.

-So...

-I love roasts. Then I put garlic with the...

-Yeah.

..big pieces.

-So, a little bit of garlic in there.

-Yeah.

We got some onions which I'm dicing up as well, with these

Brussels sprouts, cos these are going to cook in real time, as well.

-These things, so you just need to thinly slice them.

-Great.

Put the butter for the...

Now, if you've you got any of this leftover "farce" over here...?

-You can make little steak.

-Yeah?

-Yeah.

-Pan-fry them?

Yes, that's very good like this, so just it's nice to make more,

because it's so good.

-Yep.

-Thank you.

-There's your onions.

There we go.

So, literally just slice the sprouts and nice and thin.

-So, I'm going to colour the salmon.

-Yeah.

And then we're going to put the salmon in the oven.

-OK.

-So that's very easy to do.

-Is that a cue for me to do that, then?

You want to turn this over?

Yes, sure.

I'll leave you to do that cos it might drop to bits.

There you go, Chef.

There you go. It's all sauteed off.

This is the Brussels sprouts and everything. So get a bit of colour in there.

Yeah, look at the nice colour.

-Straight in the oven.

-Yeah.

-And how long's this cook for?

-It's like between 15 or 20 minutes.

-All right.

-And after ten minutes, you put the prawns in the pan.

-Right.

-So, after ten minutes...

-Yeah.

-..then put the prawns in?

-Yeah.

And which, we've got one here. Let me just...switch this off.

Yeah. There we go.

-What's next for you, right?

-Er...

Any thoughts about opening a restaurant elsewhere, or what?

No, no, no, no.

Just writing books, and I just moved from my old house to my new house.

-Yeah.

-I've just bought a new farm in my village.

So I've a lot of things to do there.

But are you producing stuff for the restaurant on the farm, or...?

-Some pork.

-Some pork, yeah!

-No, I make my own sausages, my own ham, and, er...

-Right.

-So...

-Stick, stick that on there.

-Yeah.

-And you're going to take the string off this.

-Sure.

-See, the prawns are nicely cooked. We've got a little bit of butter in there, we keep that.

-Yeah.

-OK. Do you want me to season this as well, Chef?

-Yes, please.

-There you go.

Bit of salt in there.

Bit of black pepper.

You mentioned serving this hot or cold. If you're serving it cold,

leave the string on and take if off afterwards.

Yes, make a little dressing with shallots, some kind of thing, on the...

I love to put, to serve the salmon, you know,

in the middle of the table when you serve it with, with a spoon.

-That's a serious slice there, Reynaud.

-Yeah. Look!

-Look at that!

But it's right to be cook like this, you know, not too much cooked.

-It's proper.

-Yeah.

-Just perfect, yeah.

So we have the prawns.

-There you go, get you the Brussels sprouts, as well.

-Great.

But Brussels sprouts are one of these things. I don't know about you, Angela,

but they are fantastic - if you saute them off like this,

so much better than the just standard ones that you boil at

-Christmas.

-Yeah, or Christmas you put it with chestnuts and stuff,

and a bit of bacon, and... Yeah, it's delicious.

But, yeah, those yellow ones that are boiled to...crazy, not nice.

See, I think I've figured out the context, the ones, I've always

been served up those, the ones with the evil little yellow hearts.

-The boiled ones, yeah. That's the ones.

-They're the grapes of the devil...

-Yeah.

-..and they sort of

-arrive in a great big bowl of devil grapes...

-Grapes, devil grapes.

-..which is awful.

-But now I'm looking...

-See? We're trying to... Yeah, there you go.

-OK.

-You happy with that?

-Yeah.

-This might be very different.

-Yeah, ready to be served.

Stephane, remind us what that is, again.

-So, this is like a sandwich salmon, I love the term.

-A sandwich salmon?

Yeah, I love the words, "sandwich salmon."

It's a roast of salmon, so with prawns, with Brussels sprouts,

with garlic and pastis, don't forget the pastis.

All in his new book. Easy as that.

There you go. Right.

-Over here, then, Stephane.

-Yeah.

-Follow me over here.

I love the way you top chefs always... You throw it away,

"Oh, little sandwich!"

ALL LAUGH

-Can I just say, it would take me three days to make something like that.

-No!

I'd be crying, I would have drank two bottles of wine, going,

"Oh, God, what's salmon, what's...?"

And look, and it's... Ah.

-What are you lot having?

-It looks amazing. Nothing!

-Nothing!

-This just looks so delicious.

-Go on, dive in, tell us what you think.

-My God.

But salmon's really the fish that you want to be doing that with...

-..cos it holds it all together, doesn't it?

-Yeah.

-Could you use a different fish?

-Monkfish, for example?

-Oh, I like to use it with the salmon, yeah.

-Mmm-hmm.

-Oh, my God!

That is just, that is just divine.

-Happy with that?

-Just...

-Cos it's got all your...

-Green vegetables, please.

-Notice that you're sneaking, clearing out the green veg bit, but...

-OK, here goes.

-Yeah. Face the Brussels sprouts.

-This is really... This is a big moment.

ALL LAUGH

-This is a big moment for me.

-Less of the onion, more of the sprouts.

-There you go.

-Damn! I've been found out.

-But sauteed like that, just nice and simple.

Sorry. I'm just, I'm shaking a little. It's the nerves!

ALL LAUGH

-Should I move?

-They are great when they're fried off.

-Mmm. That's a different experience.

-See?

-Yes!

-There you go!

We got there in the end. Well, these guys, dive into it, as...

-My name is Ronni Ancona, and I love Brussels sprouts.

-There you go!

Stephane there with a salmon sandwich like no other.

And with Christmas not far away, why not try something different with those sprouts?

Now it's over to Keith Floyd, who's travelling around Scotland.

This, then, is Loch Fyne - home of the noted kipper,

superb oysters and plump prawns.

A loch of stunning views, of moody skies, AND the birthplace of our

dubbing mixer, Stuart Greig, who wrote this piece of the commentary.

-OK, Stu?

-Yeah, quite good, Keith.

Right. On with cooking sketch number one.

The trouble with half an hour programmes is you haven't

got the time to do everything. Take my mate here, Jimmy Macnab.

Brilliant fellow, could tell you stories all night over a dram

and fill up the whole programme.

One thing he can do really well is marinade

and roast a haunch of venison.

Jimmy, tell us all about the venison, a minute.

Well, first of all we get the venison from the estate, Keith.

We bring it down to The Creggans. We hang it for ten days in a cold room.

Then we butcher it.

It depends on the cut we want - like, today it's a haunch.

We put the haunch into the tin,

as you say, and then we add apple,

parsnip, carrot, onion...

..a mixture of dried herbs, fresh herbs.

We cover the whole haunch with brown sugar

and a few cloves of garlic, we rub it in, and a few cloves of, er,

-what do you call these things again?

-These cloves.

-Cloves?

-Yeah.

And we rub it well in, and then we add a bottle

and a half of good red wine, which is essential.

Cover it with tinfoil, and that's you ready for putting it in the oven.

Right, which is going to take about 3.5 hours. I don't wish to be rude,

-but if you could get on with that, get it in the oven...

-Yeah.

-We'll be back to see your wonderful herrings later.

-Nae bother.

Cos I've got a dinner party dish to cook over here.

Come down this way. Jimmy's got the heavy, slow-cooking haunch.

I've got the delicate and expensive fillet steak from the venison, OK?

The loin of venison. And I cook it in creme de cassis.

This is what it looks like when it comes out of the beast, OK?

Like a big pork fillet or a fillet steak.

You cut pieces off it...

..like that. Nice round little collops, we call those.

Then you beat them out. I've already done that.

And then lovely thin little escalopes of venison, like that. OK?

We also need some water, which I'll explain later.

Right, these go into the hot pan for a couple of seconds on each side...

..just to brown very nicely, like that.

Little bit of...salt...

..and a little bit of pepper.

OK?

Then, straight away...

..we pour in some blackcurrant liqueur...

..like that, and flame it.

OK?

They must come out straight away, now...

..onto the thing.

In we put some of Jimmy Macnab's wonderful venison stock.

And we've got to reduce that...

Come back here, Richard, please. We've got to reduce that for 3-4 minutes which you won't

want to really see, so I'm going to have a quick word with Jimmy while

somebody carries on with that, and look at his wonderful herrings, OK?

Right, while my sauce bubbles,

you've got two minutes to explain your family's herrings.

Richard, get really close on Jimmy. He hasn't done it before. Help him out. Off you go, Jimmy...

OK, Keith. First of all, that's your original Loch Fyne herring.

This here is a salt herring which we purchase fae Drishaig.

Now, what I do is, I run that under, 36 hours under running cold water.

Then you nick the back bone off, the fin, off.

You take your scissors...

I nearly cut my hand off then.

-And then you chop into pieces.

-OK, we got that.

Press on, Jimmy, cos film's very expensive, OK?

You cut the onion up and chop it up there.

Then you add...wee drop pimento, rosemary, mixed herbs,

wee shake of crushed chillies.

Chop up your onion and your dill,

and this is all fresh herbs as well.

Richard, pay attention to what we have here - mint, chives,

tarragon, fresh dill, OK? On you go, Jimmy.

Then you mix all these ingredients up together,

and you leave them lying for two hours.

Then you boil one cup of brown sugar to one cup of...

-Malt vinegar.

-.. good malt vinegar.

You bring that to the boil till your sugar dissolves.

Then you mix the whole lot together, and there's your end product.

And the longer it lies...

..the better it matures.

Well, it's absolutely brilliant.

Oh, boy! Do we have a little drink with that, or not?

Well, I think.. Well, I'll tell you the story about that.

It's a great combination, a dram of whisky

and a plate of pickled herring, because you have your dram

and that gives you something, you're hungry.

-Yeah.

-So then you have a plate of pickled herring.

The salted herring gives you the thirst,

so you go back to the dram, go back to the herring, and it

works vice-versa till they end up, you're as pickled as what the herring is.

-Absolutely brilliant. Slainte!

-Cheers.

-I must go back to the sauce. OK?

-Yeah.

-Excuse me!

That was very delicious. Anyway, I must just finish this sauce.

What I will do now is beat in a little bit of butter to the creme de cassis and into the venison stock.

Take about 30 seconds just to make it really smooth and creamy and wonderful...

..which is now ready. OK?

Strain it over the, over the little venison collops.

Look at the lovely rich sauce.

Down close on that, Richard, so everybody can see.

It's a dish you can make at home.

Absolutely brilliant.

In case you weren't paying attention, I said you need some water for this.

Of course you do. It goes into the dram.

Jimmy! It's finished. Can you come and have a taste, please, OK?

If he doesn't like it we'll cut him out of the film. It's very, very simple.

There you are. There's my, um...venison and blackcurrant liqueur sauce.

-Have a go. See what you think of it.

-Well, that's a really streamlined venison anyway, so...

-Yeah.

Well, it cuts lovely.

-Mmm.

-OK?

-Really...first class.

-Good.

-You'll be a favourite with the berry pickers in Dundee now, with that.

KEITH LAUGHS

Let's have look at yours that's been roasting away in the oven there.

-See how that's going...

-Here we are.

-Yep, there you go.

-Lovely.

Now we just have to hope and pray this turns out like yours.

I'm sure it'll be very much better.

I mean, this is really the truly Scottish version -

mine is a Sassenach version, ha!

-Oh, I say, that looks brilliant.

-Thank you.

-Get in there, Richard, come on!

-Right in there with a fork and see what happens.

-Ah, that is beautiful.

I'm going to have a little "slicelette" of that.

Look at that. As tender as a baby's bottom.

That is beautiful.

Oh!

That is incredible!

-You've got to have a dram, do we? It's over there. Where's the dram?

-Oh, that'll be good.

-Thank you very much.

-Thank you very much.

-Here's all the very best.

Absolutely brilliant. Brilliant.

-Come on.

-Nah!

-Do you want a little bit yourself?

-no, no. I'm on a diet.

You're on a diet! Look at that man, on a diet.

On a diet, or is that a diet?

Isn't it funny how time flies when you're really enjoying yourself?

I mean, I was thrilled when the producer proposed ANOTHER boat trip.

But, you know, no self-respecting food programme should miss a trip on a prawny boat.

It's worth noting, you know, for those of you who are a bit tight on the old spondulix -

you know, a bit mean - that the arduous work of a prawn

fisherman is not rewarded by bulging creels of this vibrant delicacy.

It's much more usual to haul up a pot containing two or three.

And on top of that, they have to contend with vicious tides,

demonic currents and whirlpools,

because this is the legendary Corryvreckan.

You know, I'm surprised no-one's done a real bit

of moody music over this. You know, a symphony or something.

I think I'll knock one up on the way back.

Should only take, what? Three or four hours.

DRAMATIC MUSIC

You know that I'm a dreadful stickler for the finest

and the freshest of ingredients.

If you want a really good plate of langoustines from where I live,

for example, in Bristol, you'd have to fly to Barcelona, Madrid

or somewhere like that, because the finest langoustines

from the West Coast of Scotland invariably end up down there.

I thought it was cheaper, on my BBC mini-break, to enjoy some

fabulous langoustines by catching them, you've seen me do that,

I was watching while they were doing it, and cook them here.

But in fact, most of you,

I know, all of you! One in four people, four out of five people,

have seen my brilliant programmes where I've grilled them,

I've roasted them, I've flamed them, and if you haven't caught it by now,

hard luck, because I ain't cooking any more langoustines.

One of the best meals I had here was a gigot of mutton.

Absolutely fabulous.

And so I thought, to round off this lovely fishing trip we've had,

I'd make some rissoles. Richard, into the pot.

Those are the rissoles - and do you know how you make rissoles?

Come back again... Richard.

Thank you. I know you had a tiring day.

Gets a bit fresh on the boat, you see.

You get some old mutton that you've cooked cold, you mince it up,

by hand, not in the Magimix, cos that liquidises it, almost.

You add some mashed potatoes,

some finely chopped onion and some parsley.

But you don't fry them in corn oil,

you get proper blinking dripping, you see.

This kind of stuff. That's what you fry them in.

And they're absolutely fabulous,

and shame on you lot who go to supermarkets

and buy little frozen packs of square things

and drop them into corn oil, because it's dreadful.

Anyway, that's my lecture for today.

The director's been quite, quite good, so although there are only

two of those and that's one for me and one for the cameraman,

Richard has been quite good, I'm going to

prepare him a really super meal of langoustine bait,

which is some really nice bits of old herring left to rot.

-There we are, that's for being so good.

-How kind.

RICHARD LAUGHS

STIRRING MUSIC

FLOYD HUMS

Yeah. That's it, that's the first movement,

we'll knock that one out on the old Joanna after dinner,

but now onto the delicate art of conning a kitchen.

Sort of being on the culinary knocker,

as we call it in the trade.

Point one, stay modest and don't set your sights too high.

Two, choose a house well-blessed with fertile lands

and healthy stock.

Three, remember to wipe your feet as you enter.

Four, cross your fingers as you say it won't take long.

I think a really serious cookery demonstration should commence

with a few words from the Bard.

And I'm not talking about Shakespeare,

I'm talking about Rabbie Burns.

"Oh Lord, when hunger pinches soar, do thou stand us in stead

"and send us from thou bounteous store a tup or weather head."

A tup or weather head? What on earth is that?

I'll tell you what it is, it's a mutton, it's an elderly sheep.

It's something four years old at least.

It lives on these wonderful hills and valleys

and glens, as they're called around here, nibbling at bog myrtle,

wild thyme, wild sage, parsley, heather.

Doesn't need herbs to be roasted in,

because it's been eating them all of its life.

And it ends up, come and have a closer look, Richard, ends up

looking this dark meat, rather like a haunch of venison

or piece of beef.

You'd hardly think that was lamb, certainly if you were used

to eating the lamb we have in England, which is pale and milky.

Jolly delicious by the way, but quite, quite different.

And this gigot is a Scottish-French word in France,

it's a "gigo" and here they say a gigot.

Everybody says it when they go to the butcher, "Gigot, please".

And they get a leg of mutton.

And they poach it in water, very, very simply,

come down and have a look, with a load of root vegetables,

turnips, swede, leeks, carrots and onions stuffed with cloves,

simmered for three or four hours.

And it's absolutely brilliant,

but what is also brilliant is this remarkable kitchen.

I know it's not Antiques Roadshow, not Upstairs, Downstairs,

but look at it, it's absolutely incredible.

Handmade pots with the owner's initials on them,

this amazing tiling,

Thomas Crapper of Chelsea must have worked like mad.

Come and have a look! It's quite extraordinary.

I mean, the doors, the fittings, it's like a yacht.

This is more like a palace than a kitchen. But for some people,

it must have meant an awful lot of work.

Imagine them scrubbing the carrots, peeling potatoes, baking bread.

Mr Hudson would say, "That's not quite good enough,

"make sure those plates are properly cleaned..."

It's amazing, look at it.

Cakes, confectionery, Escoffier would've been proud of this.

Look at this! This is what really interests me, the dairy.

Come on in, Richard.

It's cool and...

I could imagine in the busy days of banquets and stuff,

when you were sent off to make the cream, it was a great relief,

you'd close the door and stay in this serene sort of chapel.

And it's good that of course the servants and the staff have gone,

but the laird still makes wonderful creamy butter.

Look at that. It's fabulous, isn't it?

Anyway, it's meant to be a cooking programme, let's get back to it.

Oh, there is one more thing, come and have a look at this.

It's really interesting.

This is what I wanted to show you.

I mean, they didn't just go to the Jobcentre in those days,

sign the form and get winged in

because they were good potato peelers

laundry maids, or something like that.

They had to sort of read the whole thing,

book, rule and verse, you know.

"Duty to God, duty to the King",

and all the rest of it, and also, look here.

"To submit myself to all my governors, teachers,

"spiritual pastors and masters.

"To order myself lowly and reverently to all my betters."

Betters? I'd better go and cook the laird's dinner. Hm!

I'm sorry about that, but I was so fascinated by it all,

I just wanted you to see it. It's amazing, isn't it?

Anyway, this is a cookery lesson and let's get down to business,

let's put our toasting fork away and talk about the gigot.

The gigot is going to be poached in water, as I explained

earlier, with these lovely root vegetables,

but later on, it will actually be served with a caper sauce.

Caper sauce, very simple to make, you make a roux,

bit of melted butter and flour, add some milk,

add some stock from the cooked dish and chuck in some capers.

There we are, Richard.

Capers, just in case YOU don't know what they are. Right?

It's got to be simmered for three hours, so the first thing we do,

pop it into this tub of water,

into which I've put a couple of bay leaves

and a couple of cloves, a couple of peppercorns and quite a bit of salt.

We then surround it with all these splendid vegetables, OK?

Because it's going to be cooked slowly,

these vegetables won't disintegrate.

You might think that they'd all mash into a pulp, but this isn't going

to be boiled away, it's going to be simmered away. There we are.

And then, this is the laird's pot, by the way.

My God, I bet the laird doesn't do this himself all that often.

I imagine there are a few old retainers to this day

to lift it over. Onto this rather...

Gordon Bennett! This is true, really, actually, it's damned heavy!

-FLOYD STRAINS

-Onto there.

Cor!

That will now simmer, believe it or not, for three hours.

I think it's time, as we say, for me to take a dram,

you to take a break, and have a walk round this estate.

It is an estate of which dreams are made from.

GENTLE CLASSICAL MUSIC

Yes, look, I'm really sorry about this music but the truth is

the BBC library was shut that day

and we had to borrow this from my producer, which on balance

is better than his other record,

Richard Clayderman Takes The High Road.

Do you know, actually I'm not so sure.

MUSIC CONTINUES

Oh, dear. Here's the loch again.

Noted for its kippers, fine oysters, plumptious prawns...

-TILL RINGS

-I thank you!

Now to business.

If like me you've just become a gardener, what a fine place

this is in May in particular to nick a few cuttings.

Of course, poaching an azalea is one thing,

but don't mess with the salmon or you'll end up in smoke too,

like this superb Loch Fyne beauty.

-TILL RINGS

-I thank you!

So, there we are, that's just about it.

I know you've had a good trip round the estate

and I've been, as you can see, slaving away here. Just to recap,

poaching the gigot in water with these lovely root vegetables

and it's ready for the laird, whom I've kept waiting.

I promised him lunch at... Well, we always do that.

Run over time a little bit.

Anyway, in there it goes

and I'll just pass it up to myself...

in the lift.

OK, Keith?

# Hey, ho...

# Hey, ho...

# It's off to work I go... #

FLOYD HUMS AND LAUGHS

There we are, Lord. Sorry it's late.

It's only five o'clock.

It's a pity that mutton has gone the way

of so much of our culinary heritage.

There's no comparison between imported lamb

and mutton happily raised on...

# Bog myrtle, heather and thyme... #

Now, what I forgot to mention to our viewers

was the indispensable caper sauce.

Have a close look, Richard.

You melt some butter, put a little flour in to make a roux,

then you add some milk, then, as it thickens,

you add some of the stock from this into it

and then finally some beautifully chopped capers, which you then

pour over this, as it is sort of piquant and creamy.

And it goes brilliantly with the, with the mutton.

-Right, I'll just give you a bit of this stuff.

-Lovely.

-Mm.

-A leek, I think.

-Right.

-If you've been out hauling up...

oysters and things like that all day,

or chasing venison, or whatever you lairds do...

-Reading the Sunday Times.

-Reading the Sunday Times.

Very exhausting.

-Thank you.

-How's that, then?

-Lovely.

-Oh, and a carrot. You must have a carrot.

-Yes.

-There you go, you tuck into that.

-Thank you, I will.

-And I'll serve myself.

-Thank you very much.

I mean, this is,

actually, I think it's a three-year-old weather.

And I should think that you and I are the only people

in Great Britain eating such a strange dish today.

-Yeah. What a shame.

-Because it's not available

and mutton is almost a pejorative term, isn't it?

Mutton dressed as lamb.

How can we get people to eat things like mutton?

I think it's very much up to the...

I think we've got - WE have got to market it, the farmers

have got to try to think of ways to get it to the marketplace

-as hill, hill mutton.

-Yeah.

Rather like how the small vineyard owners might

-market their own single vineyard wines, that sort of thing.

-Sure.

-Anyway, John, we've got to get on.

-Yeah.

-They've got to get to work and find some more scenes and stuff to do.

-Right.

So, thanks for letting us use your home.

-Thank you for letting us muck up your day.

-Not at all!

We've had a fabulous time!

At the end of the day, I had the most excellent

boiled jiggered weather, and I must thank you for that.

-Well, thank you very much. Slainte.

-Slainte.

-Slainte.

Brilliant stuff from Keith there.

Now, as always, we'll take a look back at some of the best moments

from Saturday Kitchen, and there's still plenty more to come.

Coming up, Nathan Outlaw and Paul Ainsworth

battle it out in the omelette challenge.

Stephen Terry knocks up a posh brunch,

he's cooking a confit duck hash

using duck legs, duck livers, onions and potatoes,

and served with a celeriac and radish salad and a fried duck egg on top.

Paddy McGuinness faces his food heaven or his food hell.

Did he get his food heaven, bourbon glazed sticky ribs with coleslaw and baked potato?

Or his food hell, chicken liver parfait with spiced apple chutney and melba toast?

Stay tuned until the end of the show to find out.

But now it's over to Tom Kerridge, who's got the perfect dish

for those mashed potato leftovers.

-Welcome back, Tom.

-Morning, chief.

I thought you were going to do a little sort of paso doble

-towards us here.

-Later on, maybe.

-Later on?

-Later on, maybe.

And what are you going to make for us, then?

So I'm going to be doing a venison T-bone steak. So it is...

It is just like a T-bone steak.

It has the fillet and the loin,

with the nice T-bone through the middle,

but we are going to be cooking that with a little bit of butter.

-Sounds pretty good.

-And serving it with some red cabbage

some creme fraiche that we are going to season with some

Sichuan pepper and potato pancakes.

You wanted me to do that. I know you want to get this on first of all

so away you go with that one. I'll get on with the pancakes.

-OK.

-So is this...

this T-bone that you got, is that something that's on the menu

at The Hand And Flowers at the moment?

T-bone steak isn't but venison is.

So venison is on the menu and I love venison. It's fantastic.

Especially this time of year.

This time of year it is great, seasonal and it's very British.

Now, the pancakes.

We've got here some baking powder, flour, the potatoes, which are

cold mashed potato, basically.

In goes the eggs and then we're going to add the milk to combine.

So that's that one. What are you doing now, then?