24/12/2017 Saturday Kitchen Best Bites


24/12/2017

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Transcript


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Good morning. We've got turkey, ham, quiche, parsnip soup,

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Christmas pudding tarts, Brussels sprouts,

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and I'm wearing a Christmas jumper.

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That can only mean one thing.

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Yes, it's Christmas Eve and this is Saturday Kitchen Best Bites.

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Welcome to the show.

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Now, over the next 90 minutes,

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we've got your starters, your mains, your desserts

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all sorted for the big day tomorrow.

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Coming up, James Martin makes

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a classic Mont Blanc for Charlie Brooks,

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and then it's over to Yotam Ottolenghi,

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who's trying to get us all to eat sprouts.

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He makes a membrillo butternut squash and stilton quiche,

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and then serves it alongside Brussels sprouts.

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Roasted with pomelo, cinnamon and star anise.

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David Everitt-Matthias is here

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with a dessert perfect for those Christmas pudding leftovers.

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He makes a pastry tart before filling with a mix of almonds,

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Christmas pudding, cream and sugar,

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and serves with cranberry puree

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and then amaretto cream.

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Then legendary Rick Stein takes on Stephane Reynaud

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in the Saturday Kitchen Omelette Challenge.

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Will Holland has your Christmas dinner starter all worked out.

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He makes a vanilla and parsnip soup

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and then ladles it over pan-fried scallops and saffron-poached quince.

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And finally comedian Johnny Vegas

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faces his food heaven or his food hell.

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Will he get his food heaven - vodka and tonic soft-shell crab

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with saffron aioli and seasonal salad?

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Or his food hell - Christmas pudding ice-cream

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with sauteed pineapple and a star anise and cinnamon caramel?

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You're going to have to keep watching till the end of the show

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to find out. But first up, one half of the Hairy Bikers

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is making a marmalade-glazed gammon.

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-It's Si King.

-It's me again, isn't it?

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-It IS you again.

-Hello.

-What are we cooking, boss?

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OK, what we're going to do is, look at this beautiful, beautiful gammon.

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-Yep.

-We're going to poach this in some fruit juices,

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then what we're going to do...

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This is an aromat sort of thing, is it?

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-Yeah, it's that kind of thing.

-OK.

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-What we're going to do, let's get on with it, eh?

-OK.

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-You want me to do this...?

-There's two salsas here.

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There's a salsa of pineapple,

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of fennel and a cucumber,

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with a nice little chilli zip to it.

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And also, a kind of fruit vinegar.

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So, we're going to have that,

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and then we're going to do an apple and beetroot salsa.

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So, dude, you've got lots of chopping to do. That's the gig.

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That's the normal sort of stuff.

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What we're going to do is, in this pan, we're going to put...

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..about a litre of pineapple juice.

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Stick your ham in.

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Let me just get rid of that.

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Could you not just put the pineapple

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-in rings and put a nice glace cherry in?

-Shut up, you!

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I'm trying to make it interesting!

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Geordie gammon and pineapple.

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-Hawaiian style.

-It's the same recipe.

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Wait a minute, let me throw something at him.

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THEY LAUGH

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-Where's me knife?

-Honolulu!

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Shut up, you're putting us off.

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-What have you got in here, then? What's the juice?

-The juice.

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So, we've got pineapple juice, bit of apple juice as well.

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Just top it up. Now, this is the good bit. It's dead easy.

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What to do is, you take this orange,

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and you skin it, basically.

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Not to put too fine a point on it.

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And then you whack that into the cooking liquor.

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And what happens is, with the gammon and the citric acid,

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it's great because it's kind of a natural tenderiser as well.

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-So, you have to soak the gammon beforehand?

-Well, you don't.

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Well, you can do, but if you buy a good bit of gammon,

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you shouldn't have to, really,

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cos the curing process should be spot-on.

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And then, we half an apple.

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Don't be shy, just halve it.

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Whack it in the pan.

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There we are.

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Now, we need a big finger of ginger.

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-Do you do a gammon at Christmas, James?

-No.

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-What for?

-Why not?

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He's got no mates, that's why.

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He's only on his own, it's pointless having a big bit of meat.

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We always do gammon and turkey.

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You're not supposed to feed dogs pork, are you?

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Really? Why? Hey, that's good dicing. I'm impressed with that.

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What am I doing now? Yes, now then, what we do is,

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we take two bay leaves, for the use of, and stick that in.

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And then, cinnamon stick.

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And then we've got two star anise,

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and these little lovelies.

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Do you know what these are?

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Neither do I. I do.

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They are whole spiced berries, lovely.

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You just put those in there like that. Now, the secret is,

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obviously, in six minutes, this can't be poached in time, can it?

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So, in true Blue Peter fashion,

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here's one...I made earlier.

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-I've been up a very long time, you know?

-Very good.

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-The Fanny Cradock tribute!

-LAUGHTER

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Shut up, you!

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You should see the gammon he's got out there. There's about 15!

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I've been up a long time.

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I tell you what to do is, you poach it in this liquor

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for about, I don't know, about an hour a kilo.

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This is a three-kilo bit. You can tell how long I've been up.

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A long time. What we need to do

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is you take that out there, like that,

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and put it on a baking tray.

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Now, this is the good bit. It's really simple.

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-What you do...

-This is great for Christmas.

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It's great, man.

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You can make it. It just sits in the fridge.

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You just keep going back for it.

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It's great. What I'm going to do for the glaze...

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Personally, I'd just serve it with a pineapple ring

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cos I'm sick of all this chopping. THEY LAUGH

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There's no need to be shirty, now!

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It's Christmas. It's the season of goodwill to all fellas and all that.

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-Do you put pineapple on your pizza as well, James?

-Yes, I do.

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He does, doesn't he? I can tell.

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-The Hawaiian.

-The Hawaiian. The Brazilian.

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Moving on, moving on.

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What happens is, we put some honey in this,

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cos this is the glaze.

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We're now making the glaze. We've got marmalade,

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a bit of honey, now the holy trinity of loveliness here.

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We have... What do we have?

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Yes. We have some ginger,

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we have some mixed spice, and we have some pepper.

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And we put that in, like that.

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In there, like that. It's all very lovely.

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-Where's this idea come from?

-I just made it up.

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But I think the Americans did it,

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cos they're like that.

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Cooking ham in juice, and stuff like that.

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It's very different to what you've been doing recently.

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The bikes are still an issue in your programme,

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but you've kind of gone a bit closer to home, haven't you?

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We have. We're in the process of visiting

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most of the counties in the country,

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really, and saying to them,

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"Right, OK, what's your iconic dish?

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"What are you famous for? What do you produce?" It's great.

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And it's really interesting

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because it's an opportunity for us to celebrate our own food culture.

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There's 89 counties in the United Kingdom,

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so that's possibly 89 programmes!

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It keeps us off the dole!

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It's not good, standing in that queue. It's cold out.

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Right, so what we're doing is,

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we're basically heating this up to emulsify the sugars.

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Then, I have, somewhere, a nice little spoonaroonie,

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or a brush.

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Spoons over there.

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I'll use a spoon.

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I'm very glad you didn't ask me to chop anything.

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-I'm glad. So am I.

-We'd have been here for at least seven hours.

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I'll be here for seven hours cos I can't find me brush. Never mind.

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What we do is we put that glaze

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all the way over this lovely gammon.

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And then, what you do...

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Oh, look at this. It's lovely. Now...

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Look at that. And then you put it in the oven, basically.

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-Until it caramelises.

-How long for?

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-About 20 minutes.

-20 minutes.

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So, that goes in the oven.

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He gets all the messy jobs. Bit more...

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..than that, James.

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Don't you just hate that?

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I was just saying.

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They get shirty when you tell them that.

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Where do you want the mint?

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In with the apple, in there.

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Now then, what we're going to do,

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we want to take this, like that. Look at that.

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How unctuously, gorgeously lovely is that?

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That is lovely.

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And then...

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-Argh!

-Olive oil.

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Aye, man.

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That's the thing about cookery - it's hot.

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What about the juice that you've got left over?

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Now, what you can do, this is fantastic,

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basically the chef term is a glace,

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so you reduce it and reduce it and reduce it,

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-and then what you can do is you can pour it.

-Wow.

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You have to sieve it and then pour it over your lovely sliced ham.

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Hey, honestly, it's worth it.

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I just put a packet of split peas in there

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and make the most wonderful pea and ham soup.

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Yeah, it would be fruity, but it would be, you know...

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What we want to do is we're just going to cut this.

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I'm just taking the vinegar and sugar, you want me to dissolve this?

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Yes, please, James, if you wouldn't mind.

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Now, you see that bit that falls off the end? All unctuous and lovely?

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That bit's for me, Dave, and everybody else here, you see.

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Right.

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So, James, could you put some watercress on that plate?

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-I'm doing that, yeah. A bit of watercress.

-Look at that.

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And basically the salsas,

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it's the whole kind of fruit vibe running through it.

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It's basically just cos, you know how your palate gets really tired

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at the end of... And you get sick of eating Christmas pudding and that?

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Not that I'm this shape for nothing. I like Christmas pudding.

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-You work hard on it, don't you?

-Yeah, I do. I do.

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Dervla, I'm holding in, you know. I'm holding in.

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-He's tucked his shirt in today.

-You've got your support pants on.

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LAUGHTER

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How dare you, madam!

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It could catch on, you know.

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I have difficulty breathing with me corsets.

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So, we're going to put that on there like that.

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-Hurry up, Martin. I've done that.

-I've finished.

-Look at that.

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And now what we do... You see, the thing is, they're northern portions.

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-Thank you.

-That's a canape where I come from, mate.

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Well, Yorkshire.

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I laugh at myself, so...

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Anyway, I didn't mean that, all those from Yorkshire.

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I love you really. Right, there we go. We put that salsa like that.

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-That's Geordie hostility.

-Geordie hostility!

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You'll be welcomed with open arms, won't you?

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-Right. Next one.

-Very colourful, Kingy.

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That's good, isn't it? It is.

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It's like Carmen Miranda with a pig on her head.

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THEY LAUGH

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Here, I tell you what, with mates like that, who needs enemies?

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I've had gammon at your house many times, and honestly, it's a triumph.

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-It is a triumph.

-Place that on there?

-That's it.

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James Martin, you know what?

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-That's it.

-Remind us what that dish is.

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It is a fruit gammon...

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-Are you all right, there?

-Yeah, go on.

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-It's a fruit gammon...

-Yep.

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..with a spiced marmalade glaze

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and two zingy...

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-HE WHISTLES

-..wingy salsas.

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Easy as that.

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I'm going to so get you back for that.

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Over here. Have a seat.

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I'm sitting. I'm holding in.

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-Wow.

-Wow!

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It's just a small portion.

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THEY LAUGH

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Tell us what you think.

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All right, then. Yeah, I'd love to.

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Mix it up, Dervla.

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Wow. I'm glad I didn't have breakfast.

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I'm glad you didn't have breakfast either.

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But the salsa, you could mix and match them.

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You've used pineapple, mango.

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You can use mango, pineapple - goes really well together -

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big fruity, zesty hit of loveliness.

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-That is absolutely fantastic.

-Good?

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Yeah. Really good.

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And sliced with a big pile of mash and let that sauce go through.

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Yeah, chive mash. Oh, great.

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-Thank you.

-There you go.

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I don't think you can grow much of this in your garden.

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The great thing about that is,

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you can, like I said, you can do it beforehand,

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you can sit it in the fridge. Lasts all week. Perfect.

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It does. It's great.

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When I do it at home, cos it's a recipe that I use at home a lot

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cos we've got all the boys at home and the family come round.

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As you say, it's a great little fridge standby.

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Just slice it off.

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And you're left with the best bits. Great in soups, pea and ham soups.

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-And so juicy.

-It is. If you stick to those times, cookery times,

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they kind of work.

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Even when only one of those bikers is cooking,

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you can always rely on the other one to chip in with criticism.

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But a great start to the show and a perfect dish for boxing day.

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Now, coming up, Charlie Brooks enjoys a classic Mont Blanc,

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but first, Rick Stein has gone crazy with the Christmas decorations

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and has the ideal dish for all those turkey leftovers.

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I love Christmas.

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So much so that I didn't even mind putting up the Christmas decorations

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in the middle of summer in order to film this programme.

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It's one of those strange, little eccentricities

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of working in television.

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Christmas specials being filmed in June!

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But I'd just returned from filming my latest series

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all around the Far East,

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an odyssey which inspired me to come up with the answer

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to that big cooking dilemma

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facing us all at Christmas-time -

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what to do with that cold turkey?

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I think that's it, really.

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It's looking really quite Christmassy.

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One of the things that really excited me

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about my trip through the Far East is the thought of what to do

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with leftover turkey meat.

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Much more refreshing things and not the old standard.

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Some salads, a particularly special curry

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and one or two other things.

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While I was away, I was thinking, "Yes!"

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You've got all that lovely white meat,

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the things you can do. Spicy, spikey things

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like this salad I'm just about to make from Vietnam.

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You'll see, by the end of it, you'll be saying,

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"THAT'S what to do with the turkey."

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So, I'm just slicing these up to go in the salad.

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I hope you like my decorations.

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I mean, you might think they're a little over the top.

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I went mad in the supermarket.

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It's not quite Nigella.

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I think hers is a bit more sort of faultless and understated.

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But I like them.

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I'm using Chinese leaves to make up this salad.

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But any crisp type of lettuce will do the trick.

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You want to end up with a bit of a bite to it.

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Shred it or chop it fairly finely

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and chuck it in with the turkey meat.

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So now I'm going to cut up a couple of bits of carrot

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using the mandolin here.

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The mandolin's an easy way

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to cut the carrot into thin strips called julienne.

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That's better than grating, it looks better.

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Then onto that, put a handful of crisp beansprouts,

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a similar amount of finely-chopped shallots and some chopped peanuts.

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One of the things that really distinguishes these salads

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from Vietnam is the enormous amount of herbs that go into them.

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They grow the most wonderful aromatic herbs,

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some which you find quite difficult to get here,

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particularly one called Vietnamese mint.

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Although I have grown it in my garden,

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but it was killed off in a savage winter.

0:14:490:14:51

But this time, I'm just using mint and coriander, and basil,

0:14:510:14:56

to sort of approximate that Vietnamese mint flavour,

0:14:560:14:59

and it does really quite well.

0:14:590:15:01

To get a piquant dressing,

0:15:040:15:06

add some red chillies to some chopped garlic in a bowl.

0:15:060:15:09

Put in a good amount of sugar.

0:15:090:15:11

It doesn't have to be palm sugar,

0:15:110:15:13

but that would be best.

0:15:130:15:15

Then some fish sauce,

0:15:150:15:16

and a splash of rice wine vinegar

0:15:160:15:19

and a lot of lime juice.

0:15:190:15:21

Perhaps use a couple of limes.

0:15:210:15:24

A quick whiz round to dissolve the sugar

0:15:240:15:26

and dress the salad as normal

0:15:260:15:29

to get everything well and truly coated.

0:15:290:15:32

It should look all wet and glistening.

0:15:320:15:35

Don't forget that it's one of those salads

0:15:350:15:38

that is best made immediately before going to the table.

0:15:380:15:41

That is so nice.

0:15:440:15:45

And one of the things about turkey meat,

0:15:450:15:48

it is quite strong, and that's one of the things

0:15:480:15:50

I'm really not sure I like about leftover turkey dishes.

0:15:500:15:54

But this works a treat because

0:15:540:15:56

there's lots of other robust flavours with it.

0:15:560:15:59

You've got chilli. You've got lime.

0:15:590:16:01

And you've got lots and lots of herbs.

0:16:010:16:03

And the turkey meat. It's in harmony.

0:16:030:16:06

Brilliant ideas as always from Rick.

0:16:110:16:13

I won't have any turkey leftovers myself,

0:16:130:16:15

as regular viewers to this show will know

0:16:150:16:17

that I'm not a huge fan of the stuff, but I do have something

0:16:170:16:20

which I've got plenty of at Christmas going around,

0:16:200:16:22

and these are these. You haven't tried these before.

0:16:220:16:25

-I haven't. They look amazing.

-These are marrons glaces.

0:16:250:16:27

Now, I know Michel will absolutely love these.

0:16:270:16:29

-These are marrons glaces. These are sugared chestnuts.

-Wow.

0:16:290:16:32

-Have you tried these, girls?

-No.

0:16:320:16:34

You've got to. Michel, these are just absolutely delicious.

0:16:340:16:36

Now, I'm going to do a classic, or my version of a classic dessert,

0:16:360:16:39

which is gateau Mont Blanc.

0:16:390:16:40

Why on earth I would do Mont Blanc on a show

0:16:400:16:43

where I've got the king of desserts and pastry sat over there,

0:16:430:16:47

I don't know! But anyway, the idea of this, you've got meringue.

0:16:470:16:50

To get really good meringue, you need egg whites, you need sugar.

0:16:500:16:53

-Are they any good?

-REALLY good.

0:16:530:16:55

They're nice, aren't they?

0:16:550:16:56

Then to get a sticky meringue, you've got some cornflour

0:16:560:16:59

and white wine vinegar.

0:16:590:17:01

What I've done is made a pavlova base

0:17:010:17:03

and I'm just going to brush that

0:17:030:17:04

just over with chocolate, over the top of there.

0:17:040:17:06

So this is kind of... If you're into healthy food,

0:17:060:17:10

-turn over, because...

-Don't come here.

0:17:100:17:12

..this is going to get a lot worse in a minute,

0:17:120:17:15

but the idea of this, you just literally brush it over the top,

0:17:150:17:18

and what this will do

0:17:180:17:20

is literally just protect

0:17:200:17:22

the meringue as you put the cream on the top

0:17:220:17:26

because, otherwise, it's going to soak all into it.

0:17:260:17:29

What is it that makes it sort of chewy on the inside?

0:17:290:17:31

-It's cornflour and white wine vinegar.

-Right, OK.

0:17:310:17:34

That's what you want. And the way you cook it as well.

0:17:340:17:36

So, in there. I'm going to basically sugar the nuts to go with that.

0:17:360:17:39

To do that, we've got some sugar and I've got some water.

0:17:390:17:42

I'm going to make a stock syrup.

0:17:420:17:44

Very, very quickly, we get a stock syrup.

0:17:440:17:46

And then throw in these nuts.

0:17:460:17:48

I've got cashew nuts... The most important thing with this,

0:17:480:17:50

you don't use salted nuts, obviously.

0:17:500:17:53

We've got cashew nuts, we've got hazelnuts and pistachio nuts.

0:17:530:17:55

They go in as well. We just cook those

0:17:550:17:57

for literally about a minute and a half,

0:17:570:18:00

and then deep-fat fry them.

0:18:000:18:01

-Now, your character's been a bit busy...

-She has.

-..recently.

0:18:010:18:04

-She's a very bad girl.

-I mean...

0:18:040:18:06

When you first of all got onto the show, because it's been, what,

0:18:060:18:09

nearly 10 or 11 years?

0:18:090:18:11

-Ten years. I was 17 when I started, yes.

-17 when you started?

-Yeah.

0:18:110:18:14

What was that like? The phone call, as soon as you finish -

0:18:140:18:16

I'm presuming you went to drama college and stuff like that?

0:18:160:18:18

I went to drama school and then I was at college doing my A-levels.

0:18:180:18:21

-Right.

-And I had the casting for EastEnders.

0:18:210:18:23

And I was out shopping with my mum

0:18:230:18:25

and, after the third recall,

0:18:250:18:27

they called me and said that I got it.

0:18:270:18:29

And I was buying one dress, I was like, "Which one should I get?"

0:18:290:18:32

Got the call and I said, "I'll have both."

0:18:320:18:34

But what was it? Literally, when you did it like that,

0:18:340:18:36

your storyline, was it...? I mean, your contract, was it...?

0:18:360:18:39

Literally, they said, "Oh, we'll have you for six months."

0:18:390:18:41

-Was it a year?

-Yeah.

0:18:410:18:43

To begin with, it was six months

0:18:430:18:44

-and I think they see how the character goes...

-Right.

0:18:440:18:47

..and then it extends from there, really.

0:18:470:18:49

Ten years down the line, here I am.

0:18:490:18:51

-Ten years down the line.

-I know.

-But, I mean, incredible storylines.

0:18:510:18:54

-Yeah.

-Because you're kind of one of the few characters

0:18:540:18:57

-that's sort of been, gone again, come back again.

-I know. Yeah.

0:18:570:19:01

Which has been great for me.

0:19:010:19:02

You know, it was lovely to go off. I think I was there for five years.

0:19:020:19:05

-Sorry, I'm just going to pass to Bryn to whip this.

-That's all right.

0:19:050:19:08

-And...

-Softly whipped, please.

-OK.

0:19:080:19:10

There for five years, and it was just time.

0:19:100:19:12

-There's only so much a character can do, really.

-Yeah.

0:19:120:19:14

She'd come to the end of her life for a little while, I think,

0:19:140:19:17

and I wanted to go off and do other things.

0:19:170:19:19

You know, but when the opportunity came up to go back,

0:19:190:19:21

I was over the moon. Really happy.

0:19:210:19:23

-I mean, and going back, you did - back with a bang!

-Hmm!

0:19:240:19:28

-Prostitution, murder...

-What a crazy year!

0:19:280:19:30

The prostitution was a little while ago.

0:19:300:19:32

-We're on murder, poisoning...

-Right.

0:19:320:19:36

God, the list is endless, really,

0:19:360:19:37

but she got married, she was happy for a little while.

0:19:370:19:40

The interesting thing, every time you go and read the script,

0:19:400:19:42

it must be quite fascinating to read your next chapter in your life.

0:19:420:19:45

Well, the boss calls us up

0:19:450:19:47

and gives us an idea about what we're going to be doing

0:19:470:19:49

over the next few months, you know.

0:19:490:19:51

-Yeah.

-So it's not such a shock when I find out that I'm...

0:19:510:19:55

..trying to kill my husband and stuff.

0:19:550:19:56

-It's not such a shock to you. It happens all the time.

-Yeah.

0:19:560:19:59

I'll show you these. These are...

0:19:590:20:01

-All I've done, these are sugared.

-Right.

0:20:010:20:03

What you need to do is drain them onto greaseproof paper,

0:20:030:20:06

and not kitchen paper, otherwise they all stick together.

0:20:060:20:08

-But they are sticky.

-Wow.

-Sugared. Sugared.

0:20:080:20:10

They are deep-fried, so you put them in a little sugar syrup...

0:20:100:20:13

Bryn, hopefully, is getting our...

0:20:130:20:15

-We've got butter.

-We've got it there.

0:20:150:20:18

-We got there.

-Butter you want?

-You've more or less done it anyway.

0:20:180:20:21

-Did you like the chestnuts?

-Lovely.

-But they are nice and simple.

0:20:210:20:24

Then we've got our little bit of mascarpone cheese,

0:20:240:20:27

so this is the healthy bit that I showed you.

0:20:270:20:30

Chestnut puree, you can buy this in two forms -

0:20:300:20:32

sweetened and unsweetened.

0:20:320:20:34

Make sure you buy the right one.

0:20:340:20:36

This one is, of course, the sweetened one.

0:20:360:20:38

I'm going to whisk this together into a paste,

0:20:380:20:40

just to get rid of the little bit of lumps to start off with.

0:20:400:20:44

Then we're going to add a bit more. In fact, all of it.

0:20:440:20:47

That's going to go in there.

0:20:510:20:52

And then we can then fold in that cream.

0:20:540:20:57

So, what's next for Janine, the character, then?

0:20:570:21:00

Do you know what's next?

0:21:000:21:02

-Well...

-What can you tell us?

0:21:020:21:04

..I think she's going to be very lonely for a little while.

0:21:040:21:06

Because, you know, she was...

0:21:060:21:09

The thing is, she's so misunderstood, my character.

0:21:090:21:11

I have so much sympathy for her and everybody hates her.

0:21:110:21:14

Which sounds a ridiculous thing to say,

0:21:140:21:16

but she just wants to be loved.

0:21:160:21:18

And her husband went off...

0:21:180:21:20

Needs to stop killing people, though, really.

0:21:200:21:22

Well, if he didn't have an affair,

0:21:220:21:24

-then maybe I wouldn't have tried to kill him.

-Right. OK.

-So...

0:21:240:21:27

So he kind of deserved it, is that what you're thinking?

0:21:270:21:29

-Well, he did deserve it, really.

-Right, OK.

0:21:290:21:31

I don't think she intended to actually kill him,

0:21:310:21:34

-I think she just wanted to teach him a lesson.

-OK.

-You know?

0:21:340:21:37

So, yeah, I mean, she's not going to get back with her husband,

0:21:370:21:41

I don't think, after all of this.

0:21:410:21:42

I mean, out of EastEnders,

0:21:420:21:44

are you allowed to do much other than EastEnders, or...

0:21:440:21:47

I suppose, time really permits to do anything else?

0:21:470:21:50

When you're heavily storylined like that,

0:21:500:21:52

you don't really have much time to breathe let alone do any other work.

0:21:520:21:56

But, yeah, I don't know.

0:21:560:21:58

If something came up in the theatre or another job,

0:21:580:22:00

and it could work with the schedules, then, yeah,

0:22:000:22:02

-they sometimes let you.

-Is theatre something you'd quite like to do?

0:22:020:22:05

-Cos when you speak to most actors...

-Yeah, I'd love to.

0:22:050:22:07

..that seems to be the thing. What is it about theatre?

0:22:070:22:10

-Is it the live thing?

-I just learn so much from it.

0:22:100:22:13

I did a play in Liverpool and it was just

0:22:130:22:16

such a wonderful experience.

0:22:160:22:17

I learned so much about myself as an actress. And the play.

0:22:170:22:21

Researching the era and stuff.

0:22:210:22:23

It was just amazing. It's such a buzz doing it.

0:22:230:22:25

-The challenge, I suppose, of everything else.

-It's the challenge.

0:22:250:22:28

-Yeah.

-There you go.

0:22:280:22:30

All I've done now is...

0:22:300:22:31

Well, in Yorkshire, we call this spooning on, but...

0:22:310:22:35

..in France, it's a quenelle.

0:22:370:22:38

All we do is we just shape...

0:22:380:22:40

This has obviously got the bit of mascarpone cheese in there.

0:22:400:22:45

The sugar. I've got, in here, some caramel on there...

0:22:450:22:49

which we've got, which is nice.

0:22:490:22:51

And I've got my nuts there,

0:22:510:22:52

which is just... Literally, these are cooling down nicely.

0:22:520:22:56

But then what I'm going to use is...

0:22:560:22:57

-My little girl is going to be very jealous about this.

-Sorry?

0:22:570:23:00

My little girl is going to be very jealous that I'm doing this.

0:23:000:23:02

-She loves meringue.

-Now, talking of foods...

0:23:020:23:06

You've got the little girl now. Your experience with her with the...

0:23:060:23:09

-I know you've got your own little veg plot as well.

-I do.

0:23:090:23:11

Which has unfortunately been very neglected this year,

0:23:110:23:13

but last year, it was great success.

0:23:130:23:15

I had some lovely purple sprouting broccoli.

0:23:150:23:19

Loads of onions, carrots.

0:23:190:23:21

But this year, I've just been so busy,

0:23:210:23:24

I haven't had time to keep it up.

0:23:240:23:26

-Very satisfying.

-It is very satisfying.

-It is.

0:23:260:23:29

-And so is eating this.

-Oh, sure. Can't wait.

0:23:290:23:31

-Oh, look at that.

-Wow!

0:23:310:23:33

This is this liquid caramel.

0:23:330:23:35

Over the top.

0:23:350:23:38

He's doing it like an expert!

0:23:380:23:40

HE LAUGHS

0:23:400:23:42

It's the only time on this show that I'm ever shaking

0:23:420:23:45

while I'm doing anything!

0:23:450:23:47

-Don't shake too much, the caramel may burn you.

-Exactly.

0:23:470:23:50

There you go.

0:23:500:23:53

-Wow.

-This is called... a gateau Mont Blanc.

0:23:530:23:55

Or my version of gateau Mont Blanc, which is chestnut, everything else.

0:23:560:24:00

-Forget the plate.

-How do we do this?

0:24:000:24:03

-Do I just get stuck in?

-Exactly.

0:24:030:24:05

It looks like a beautiful variation. Well done.

0:24:050:24:07

That is a petit four in my house, chef, this Christmas,

0:24:070:24:09

-but dive into that one.

-OK.

-Perfect.

0:24:090:24:12

Be careful with that sugar, it can be quite hot.

0:24:120:24:14

Taste the cream and...

0:24:140:24:16

I'm trying to get a little bit of everything.

0:24:160:24:18

It might be quite hot, that sugar,

0:24:180:24:19

-but dive into that. Tell us what you think.

-Oh, crikey.

0:24:190:24:22

Mmm!

0:24:240:24:25

Shall we just lock the door,

0:24:250:24:27

turn the lights off and leave you there, shall we?

0:24:270:24:30

-That is beautiful.

-Yeah, we'll just leave it there.

0:24:300:24:33

There was certainly no cliff-hanger there from Charlie.

0:24:370:24:39

I think she thoroughly enjoyed that.

0:24:390:24:41

Now, there's still plenty more to come on today's show

0:24:410:24:44

and first, it's over to Yotam Ottolenghi

0:24:440:24:46

who's got a sure-fire way to get everyone eating sprouts.

0:24:460:24:49

-Great to have you on the show.

-Thanks, James.

0:24:490:24:52

We've waited a long time. Your first time on the show.

0:24:520:24:54

Yeah, it's a pleasure.

0:24:540:24:55

You're treating us to a very special couple of dishes.

0:24:550:24:57

Yeah. We're going to start with a quiche.

0:24:570:24:59

It's got membrillo, which is Spanish, quince paste.

0:24:590:25:02

Really sweet and beautiful with our Stilton, which is, you know,

0:25:020:25:05

a good British mature cheese.

0:25:050:25:06

So sweet and salty all go into this quiche.

0:25:060:25:09

We'll start with butternut squash. So, if you could make

0:25:090:25:12

about two centimetres diced of butternut squash,

0:25:120:25:14

-which we'll roast...

-Yep, OK.

0:25:140:25:15

..while I make the custard.

0:25:150:25:18

Now, tell us about your career to this day.

0:25:180:25:21

Where do you originate from?

0:25:210:25:23

Cos this is the whole key to your cooking,

0:25:230:25:25

the whole background to it.

0:25:250:25:26

Well, I was born in Israel,

0:25:260:25:29

and came here in 1997 to train as a chef,

0:25:290:25:33

and I worked as a pastry chef, mostly, in the old years.

0:25:330:25:39

And then in 2002, together with a bunch of partners

0:25:390:25:42

and Sami Tamimi, who was my business partner,

0:25:420:25:47

and we've written a book together,

0:25:470:25:49

Jerusalem, we set up this deli in Notting Hill, which has become

0:25:490:25:54

synonymous to mountains of salads, lots of colours

0:25:540:25:58

and lots of exotic ingredients.

0:25:580:26:01

For anybody that hasn't seen that kind of stuff and your shops,

0:26:010:26:04

your shops are very white on the inside, white tables,

0:26:040:26:07

but colour, I mean, so much colour in the food.

0:26:070:26:09

Yeah, tonnes of colour.

0:26:090:26:11

And, James, that's what's important for me -

0:26:110:26:13

to make the food really look great because people walk in,

0:26:130:26:17

you know, they eat with their eyes

0:26:170:26:19

and so we present it like in the middle of a Middle Eastern souk.

0:26:190:26:23

Sami and I are both from Jerusalem,

0:26:230:26:25

so essentially that's the inspiration.

0:26:250:26:27

OK, so this, you want some olive oil on this, I take it?

0:26:270:26:30

Yeah, I want some salt and pepper

0:26:300:26:31

and olive oil on the butternut squash.

0:26:310:26:33

-Right, OK.

-So quite a bit.

-And then this goes...

0:26:330:26:36

This is going to go inside this tart, or what you're making as well.

0:26:360:26:40

So this quiche is getting that butternut squash.

0:26:400:26:43

OK, so what are you making now, then?

0:26:430:26:45

So there's kind of a custardy thing here.

0:26:450:26:48

-It's got double cream, creme fraiche and eggs...

-Yep.

0:26:500:26:55

..and seasoning.

0:26:550:26:57

And I've got this pre-baked pastry, shortcrust pastry,

0:26:570:27:01

and I'm just going to start filling it up with the membrillo,

0:27:010:27:07

which is the quince paste. You must love it.

0:27:070:27:09

-I mean, that's just, like, perfect with cheese.

-It is fantastic.

0:27:090:27:11

-You can actually do it yourself but it requires quite a lot of sugar.

-Yeah.

0:27:110:27:15

Well, because, you know, quince has such a high pectin level,

0:27:150:27:18

it really sets up really nicely.

0:27:180:27:20

So you get that kind of jelly texture without even adding

0:27:200:27:24

any gelatine or anything else.

0:27:240:27:26

So that's brilliant.

0:27:260:27:28

And I'm just starting to build up the filling for my quiche,

0:27:280:27:30

which has got the Stilton.

0:27:300:27:33

Right, I'm blanching the sprouts,

0:27:330:27:34

-which are on...

-Yeah, you're blanching my sprouts.

-..the stalks.

0:27:340:27:37

You can see, Tom Kerridge goes looking for this in our next VT,

0:27:370:27:40

which you'll see him do loads of stuff with this, these little tops,

0:27:400:27:43

which are fantastic. You can buy them for Christmas.

0:27:430:27:46

It keeps the sprouts nice and moist as well, if you buy them...

0:27:460:27:48

And I'm breaking the Stilton with my hands

0:27:480:27:51

cos it just looks good like that.

0:27:510:27:53

It's not too even.

0:27:530:27:54

And I'm going to take this cooked butternut and add it.

0:27:540:27:59

-So that's almost ready.

-So where do you get your inspiration from?

0:27:590:28:02

Because, you know, I walk past the shop,

0:28:020:28:04

you have a look inside, I mean, the colours are amazing,

0:28:040:28:06

but the flavours come from all corners of the world.

0:28:060:28:08

All over the world. I travel a bit for food,

0:28:080:28:11

and wherever I go when I take a holiday,

0:28:110:28:13

-I would never go to a place where the food sucks.

-Right, OK.

0:28:130:28:16

And, you know, that's my number one priority.

0:28:160:28:20

I never go on holiday to somewhere where I'm not going to get

0:28:200:28:23

a good meal.

0:28:230:28:24

So where would you say that is a place for foodies to go

0:28:240:28:28

-travelling, then?

-Oh, Turkey, North Africa, Greece, Malaysia.

0:28:280:28:34

There's some countries in the world... Italy, obviously,

0:28:340:28:37

as Theo was just telling me about all his amazing food

0:28:370:28:41

experiences all over Italy.

0:28:410:28:42

So all those countries that have got,

0:28:420:28:44

like, a massive food tradition, this is where you want to go.

0:28:440:28:47

Right, explain to us what we're doing now, then.

0:28:470:28:49

So I've got the custard going into the quiche,

0:28:490:28:53

I've got the membrillo in there, the Stilton, it's as simple as that.

0:28:530:28:56

And I don't fill it all the way to the top,

0:28:560:28:58

you want the filling to kind of show from the top cos that's

0:28:580:29:01

going to make it look so good when it comes out of the oven.

0:29:010:29:05

-And this just goes straight in.

-Yep.

0:29:050:29:08

And in a, what, low oven or...?

0:29:080:29:10

In a medium oven, and it should take about half an hour.

0:29:100:29:13

OK. And would you always have that warm, then?

0:29:130:29:15

-Straight out of the oven you'd have it?

-Yeah, you have it...

0:29:150:29:17

Well, you can have it warm straight out of the oven or you can

0:29:170:29:20

let it cool down, it doesn't really matter.

0:29:200:29:22

I mean, just imagine, it's cheese and all those wonderful things.

0:29:220:29:25

And for the next dish, for the butternut...

0:29:250:29:30

Sorry, for the Brussels sprouts,

0:29:300:29:33

I'm going to make a sugar syrup with water and sugar and spices.

0:29:330:29:40

Now, this is where his food sort of intrigues me

0:29:400:29:44

-cos it's that mixture of sweet and...

-And savoury.

-..savoury.

0:29:440:29:47

Yeah, that's exactly what we're doing.

0:29:470:29:48

So I'm making a little sugar syrup here,

0:29:480:29:51

and you'll see that the Brussels sprouts, with their bitterness...

0:29:510:29:55

You can cut those in quarters because they're quite big.

0:29:550:29:57

Quarters, yeah.

0:29:570:29:59

And I'm going to take this pomelo, which is the most amazing fruit.

0:29:590:30:03

-I'll do the other one when I've just done this one.

-Yeah.

0:30:030:30:06

And try to get all the segments out.

0:30:060:30:10

So, you know, I look at something like a Brussels sprouts with

0:30:100:30:13

all its natural bitterness and I'm thinking,

0:30:130:30:15

"How could I make it more palatable? How can I make it more exciting?"

0:30:150:30:19

So I'm thinking citrus, I'm thinking spices and sugar.

0:30:190:30:23

So all those things that just kind of tame the Brussels sprouts.

0:30:230:30:26

Because everybody has an issue,

0:30:260:30:28

or many people have an issue with Brussels sprouts,

0:30:280:30:30

but I think it's just because they are often overcooked.

0:30:300:30:33

You know, they throw them into a bowl of water, leave them

0:30:330:30:35

there for hours, and then people get really upset

0:30:350:30:39

because they get this kind of bitter green, grey horribleness.

0:30:390:30:43

This is why they're blanching, then, is it? To retain the colour?

0:30:430:30:46

This is quite the opposite. We're going to blanch it for literally two minutes.

0:30:460:30:49

I mean, we have blanched it, and now we're going to roast it.

0:30:490:30:51

And you get tonnes of colour.

0:30:510:30:53

And this is the syrup.

0:30:530:30:56

-Over the top.

-Yeah.

0:30:560:30:58

That's goes straight into the oven.

0:30:580:31:00

20 minutes, 25 minutes.

0:31:000:31:02

-So you really want colour there, right?

-OK.

0:31:020:31:05

-So we've got everything in the oven.

-Yep.

0:31:050:31:07

If you can get me the pink pomelo that we started marinating earlier.

0:31:070:31:13

-Perfect.

-I can get you that. I'll just show you what people...

0:31:130:31:16

I'll explain what this is, really. What would you say it's near as?

0:31:160:31:20

Well, it's a bit like a big grapefruit.

0:31:200:31:23

Look at the colour there.

0:31:230:31:25

So they come both ruby and this whiter colour.

0:31:250:31:28

It's not as juicy, but it's very beautifully sweet

0:31:280:31:32

and it's perfect for salsas, for fish, for chicken.

0:31:320:31:35

It's kind of a wonderful Asian flavour.

0:31:350:31:37

And with spices, it makes a whole lot of difference.

0:31:370:31:41

So we've got the pink one that's in here as well.

0:31:410:31:44

You're going to marinate the other one,

0:31:440:31:46

-but just to show you what this one is.

-Yeah, I'm going to marinate the other one,

0:31:460:31:49

-this has been marinating for a little while.

-This is sugar, water...?

0:31:490:31:51

Sugar, water, and your spices.

0:31:510:31:54

And all that goes over...

0:31:540:31:57

..over your citrus.

0:31:570:31:59

And you could use grapefruit, if you don't have pomelo,

0:31:590:32:03

it's absolutely fine.

0:32:030:32:04

So I take this wonderful stuff that's been...

0:32:050:32:08

-I'll swap that over for you.

-Yeah, thank you.

0:32:080:32:11

I'll pick the pomelo off the juices. Add them...

0:32:110:32:15

How long would you leave that in there for, then?

0:32:150:32:17

-10, 20 minutes is enough.

-Yep.

0:32:170:32:20

Then I'll add a little bit of this syrup, it's a sugar syrup,

0:32:200:32:23

-and one little bit of lemon juice.

-There you go.

0:32:230:32:27

If you can pick a few of those.

0:32:270:32:29

So a bit of lemon juice, just to add a little bit of sharpness.

0:32:290:32:34

If you want, you could add chilli

0:32:350:32:37

because, you can see, you've got all the spices here.

0:32:370:32:39

But although this is savoury, I mean,

0:32:390:32:42

your pastry background shines through when you,

0:32:420:32:44

when you basically read your books as well.

0:32:440:32:47

But your shop, I always find it famous for those meringues.

0:32:470:32:50

-Yeah, yeah, the meringue shop.

-Beautiful red...

0:32:500:32:52

That's what people say to me.

0:32:520:32:54

"Oh, that's your shop, with all the meringues in the window?"

0:32:540:32:56

So, yeah, that's it.

0:32:560:32:57

But, I mean, those meringues are our showpiece but I also really love

0:32:570:33:00

doing them, like, cooking all sorts of Pavlovas and...

0:33:000:33:03

But people love your books because...

0:33:030:33:05

Your latest one, tell us about it.

0:33:050:33:08

It's called Plenty More.

0:33:080:33:09

Both the dishes are from there, and basically, it's a

0:33:090:33:11

celebration of vegetables.

0:33:110:33:13

You know, none of us cook with enough vegetables these days.

0:33:130:33:16

Even the non-vegetarians want to cook more vegetables,

0:33:160:33:21

but they don't know how...

0:33:210:33:23

Many of them think, "You know, I don't have the imagination."

0:33:230:33:27

So what I'm trying to do is really kind of infuse all these

0:33:270:33:30

vegetables with wonderful flavours, like here.

0:33:300:33:34

A bit of salt.

0:33:340:33:36

Would you use this dressing at all or not?

0:33:360:33:37

Yeah, you can keep that, that can go over ice cream,

0:33:370:33:39

over fruit salads, there's nothing savoury there.

0:33:390:33:42

-OK. And I've got one...

-I'll just plate this here.

0:33:420:33:45

-I've got this tart that I'll bring out.

-Perfect.

0:33:450:33:48

Can you see, James, all this beautifulness,

0:33:480:33:52

the star anise, the cinnamon and the coriander really, really

0:33:520:33:57

flavour the old Brussels sprouts.

0:33:570:34:00

So nobody can complain that they're bitter any more.

0:34:000:34:03

I'll just lift this out of here as well.

0:34:030:34:07

So while I'm doing that, you can tell everybody what the

0:34:070:34:10

name of these two dishes are.

0:34:100:34:12

So those are roasted Brussels sprouts with shallots and spices.

0:34:120:34:16

And this one?

0:34:160:34:17

And that's the membrillo and Stilton quiche with butternut squash.

0:34:170:34:21

That is amazing. You've got to try it.

0:34:210:34:24

-It really is amazing. Do you want to take that one?

-Yeah.

0:34:290:34:31

Yeah, you take that one. Bring it over.

0:34:310:34:34

You've got to dive into the Brussels sprouts.

0:34:340:34:37

-Look at that, that looks beautiful.

-I'll bring a big knife.

0:34:370:34:40

-I've got the knife here.

-You've got the big knife?

0:34:400:34:42

-Shall I do the honours?

-I don't think Ronnie needs one, to be honest.

0:34:420:34:44

The way he's eating at the moment, he's just going to start at one end.

0:34:440:34:47

Your portion.

0:34:470:34:48

-Oh, dear.

-I mean, melted stilton is the best thing in the world.

0:34:500:34:56

-Just lift it up. Look at that.

-Wow. It's beautiful.

0:34:560:34:58

We've got this Stilton cheese and the membrillo now,

0:34:580:35:01

the sweet and, like you said, the savoury.

0:35:010:35:03

And, you know, if you don't want to have a main course, you know,

0:35:030:35:07

game bird, whatever, if you want something else that is meatless,

0:35:070:35:10

you've got that, and that is just all the flavours of Christmas.

0:35:100:35:13

-He's happy.

-I'd be happy with just this...

-Aren't they fantastic?

0:35:130:35:15

-That is amazing.

-They really are.

0:35:150:35:17

-That is the best Brussels sprout I've ever eaten.

-Happy with that?

0:35:170:35:19

-Oh, my God.

-Unbelievable.

-LAUGHTER

0:35:190:35:22

He's going to be the size of a house

0:35:220:35:23

next time you see him on a snooker cue.

0:35:230:35:25

Well, there you have it,

0:35:290:35:31

the best Brussels sprouts that Theo's ever eaten.

0:35:310:35:33

Now all you've got to do is convince the kids.

0:35:330:35:35

Time now for some classic Keith Floyd,

0:35:350:35:37

and this week, he's travelled east to Norfolk.

0:35:370:35:39

In the words of the master, and I hardly think you need reminding that

0:35:420:35:45

I refer, of course, to Ernest... COUGHS: ..I mean, Noel Coward,

0:35:450:35:48

Norfolk is, in a phrase, terribly, terribly flat.

0:35:480:35:52

But East Anglia, once the kingdom of

0:35:520:35:54

that wonderful Saxon kingdom Wuffingas -

0:35:540:35:56

great name, great bloke -

0:35:560:35:58

has always been one of Europe's rich melting pots.

0:35:580:36:01

This is where the Norse, the Danes and the Flemish,

0:36:010:36:03

not to mention some brilliant thriller writers, decided to settle.

0:36:030:36:06

And the region became prosperous from wool, weaving and corn.

0:36:060:36:09

Despite the polyglot influence - that's this week's word -

0:36:100:36:13

it's managed to retain a unique character.

0:36:130:36:15

Although on the surface it seems to be the epitome

0:36:150:36:18

of peaceful, merry England, its reticence belies a strong character

0:36:180:36:21

that's reflected in the recipes and produce,

0:36:210:36:24

not to mention Oliver Cromwell,

0:36:240:36:25

who, like myself, was a very misunderstood man.

0:36:250:36:28

Notwithstanding Oliver's peccadillos -

0:36:310:36:33

that's next week's word -

0:36:330:36:34

he wouldn't approve of plans to dredge the seabed, the habitat

0:36:340:36:37

of shrimps, whelks, and mussels, in order to build motorways.

0:36:370:36:40

While I was there, not that I have any political aspirations

0:36:400:36:43

or a desire to interfere, there were plans afoot that could put

0:36:430:36:46

an end to this plentiful source of seafood.

0:36:460:36:48

I have a fine time, don't I?

0:36:500:36:52

Cruising down the river, late afternoon, early spring,

0:36:520:36:55

absolutely idyllic,

0:36:550:36:57

and headed for the Wells Bar, which is not, for once, a pub.

0:36:570:37:02

This hell of white water with teeth like bananas ahead of us,

0:37:020:37:05

that is the Wells Bar.

0:37:050:37:07

Beyond them are the shrimp grounds, and on this little boat,

0:37:070:37:10

the Romulus, we're going to throw some nets, or whatever they do.

0:37:100:37:13

I don't know cos I haven't done it yet.

0:37:130:37:14

And for sure as eggs is eggs,

0:37:140:37:15

we ain't already got some in the oven or in the deepfreeze.

0:37:150:37:18

We're going to catch these delicious little brown shrimps,

0:37:180:37:22

and I'm going to cook you some proper potted shrimps.

0:37:220:37:25

But in short, the title of this little cooking sketch is

0:37:250:37:28

potted shrimps - the hard way.

0:37:280:37:29

The shrimp - or even better still, crangon vulgaris - is a totally

0:37:360:37:40

inadequate word for up to 2,000 different species of crustacea.

0:37:400:37:43

These little brown relatives of crabs, crayfish and lobsters have

0:37:430:37:46

a funny habit, rather like most senior BBC personnel,

0:37:460:37:50

of swimming backwards.

0:37:500:37:51

No names, no pack drill.

0:37:510:37:53

So, these, then, these little things here...

0:37:540:37:58

..are the freshest little brown shrimps

0:37:580:38:00

I think you're ever going to see.

0:38:000:38:02

No wonder they're so expensive, though.

0:38:020:38:04

I mean, that's not exactly a huge catch, is it,

0:38:040:38:07

for four or five hours' trawling? And it's jolly hard work.

0:38:070:38:09

I mean, they did have a winch, they could pull it in by machinery,

0:38:090:38:12

but there just weren't enough to justify it.

0:38:120:38:14

And you know, I was in fact going to cook these on the boat,

0:38:140:38:17

potted shrimps, my way, but it's a bit rough, it's a bit choppy,

0:38:170:38:20

and it's not easy to do.

0:38:200:38:22

In fact, I could hardly open the caviar I had for my lunch -

0:38:220:38:24

my hand slipped on the tin opener, you know?

0:38:240:38:26

So we'll get back behind the breakwater,

0:38:260:38:28

in the calm waters and do these things with a bit of butter,

0:38:280:38:31

a bit of mace and stuff like that.

0:38:310:38:33

The man who wrote that stuff about those who go down to the sea

0:38:380:38:41

and do their business in small boats knew exactly what he was on about,

0:38:410:38:44

so don't whinge about the price of a saucerful of fresh shrimps,

0:38:440:38:48

or for that matter, anything that's won from the unforgiving sea.

0:38:480:38:51

But at Wells-next-the-Sea,

0:38:540:38:56

the serious business of preparing shrimps continues,

0:38:560:38:58

as it has done for the past 500 years or more, more or less.

0:38:580:39:02

You'll notice that these little boats have shrimp boilers onboard.

0:39:020:39:05

This is to ensure maximum freshness, flavour and taste.

0:39:050:39:10

But sifting these little beauties reminded me of those days

0:39:100:39:13

when you went blackberrying - one for you, one for the basket.

0:39:130:39:16

And indeed, just the smell of freshly boiled shrimps

0:39:160:39:19

wafting on this cool April evening

0:39:190:39:21

became one of the most endearing memories of Norfolk.

0:39:210:39:23

867.

0:39:250:39:26

868.

0:39:280:39:32

I actually think that's enough.

0:39:320:39:34

I mean, this is the freshest and the biggest potted shrimp in the world.

0:39:340:39:37

It is, as we say, from the trawler to table in only, actually,

0:39:370:39:41

five and three-quarter hours - it's a very quick preparation.

0:39:410:39:45

But look at the little beauties. Aren't they fabulous?

0:39:450:39:47

Brown Norfolk shrimps.

0:39:490:39:51

You need - it's very important - some melted butter,

0:39:510:39:55

which I've melted on the galley below.

0:39:550:39:57

And you've got to skim this scum from the top

0:39:570:40:01

because you don't want that to ruin the dish.

0:40:010:40:05

All you otherwise need to make this a superb thing is...

0:40:050:40:09

..a good pinch of mace... into there.

0:40:100:40:14

Quite a lot of mace cos we've got enough shrimps here

0:40:140:40:16

for a little army.

0:40:160:40:19

Stir the mace in.

0:40:190:40:21

And lots and lots of grinds of lovely black pepper.

0:40:210:40:26

It's quarter to seven on this lovely April evening,

0:40:260:40:29

and my little fingers are frozen. They really are.

0:40:290:40:32

MUSIC: Land of Hope and Glory

0:40:380:40:39

It does worry me, though, as I tuck into these and prepare these,

0:40:390:40:42

this aggregate thing is...

0:40:420:40:43

I don't know anything about politics and stone dredging

0:40:430:40:45

and stuff like that, but it does seem to me a bit worrying that

0:40:450:40:48

if they do dredge up this 140 square miles around here,

0:40:480:40:52

we're going to lose these sorts of things, and the whelks and stuff,

0:40:520:40:55

and that would be a bad, bad thing.

0:40:550:40:58

So the White Fish Authority, everybody must get behind it

0:40:580:41:00

and make sure it doesn't happen.

0:41:000:41:01

Or whoever the responsible people are.

0:41:010:41:04

Right, the mace, the powdered mace, black pepper,

0:41:040:41:07

and then you simply pour in this wonderful melted butter...

0:41:070:41:11

..till it comes to the top like that,

0:41:130:41:15

so that when it sets, you have a golden crust of butter.

0:41:150:41:20

And we won't even bother to put that in the fridge, you know?

0:41:200:41:23

I think we'll just leave it here for about an hour or two

0:41:230:41:26

and I'll have to take it on into the next cooking sketch

0:41:260:41:28

because it's ten to seven, and although it's Norfolk,

0:41:280:41:31

they're open in a couple of minutes, so I'm off.

0:41:310:41:34

MILITARY MUSIC

0:41:340:41:36

And so to the US base at Mildenhall

0:41:380:41:40

in my armoured potted shrimp carrier.

0:41:400:41:42

A brilliant piece of saluting, by the way.

0:41:420:41:45

And a quick rundown on American food from Sgt Joey Garcia.

0:41:450:41:48

If you're, like, down in Florida and Georgia, the Kentucky area,

0:41:500:41:54

they have a tendency to make the fried chicken a little spicier.

0:41:540:41:57

-Right.

-Whereas, compared to the north,

0:41:570:41:59

-it's more crispier and greasy food...

-Yeah.

-..up north.

0:41:590:42:04

And then you head over towards the west and they have the tendency to

0:42:040:42:07

make the chicken a little more extravagant, like adding...

0:42:070:42:10

..sauteing, sauteing the chicken and then frying it.

0:42:100:42:13

But me, I just eat...I eat anything. I love chicken.

0:42:130:42:18

Tell me, have you eaten any British food while you've been here?

0:42:180:42:22

When I'm off-duty, I like to try different things,

0:42:220:42:25

-like, I believe it's called Yorkshire pudding.

-You're right.

0:42:250:42:29

And the traditional Sunday English dinner.

0:42:290:42:32

Have a nice day.

0:42:450:42:46

It's brilliant, isn't it? The flying suit.

0:42:480:42:51

Getting into the American way of life is quite fantastic,

0:42:510:42:53

but also, armed with the Imperial British potted shrimps.

0:42:530:42:57

Anyway, I've never been to the States before.

0:42:570:42:59

This is the closest I've been to it for some real American cooking -

0:42:590:43:02

black-eyed beans, fried chicken and stuff like that - and I can't wait.

0:43:020:43:05

Far too hot in here for the flying suit,

0:43:100:43:12

but an American mint julep really cools you down.

0:43:120:43:14

I've got some chums here, one of whom is a Sergeant.

0:43:140:43:17

-Sergeant, please?

-Yes?

-Sgt Susan Luck, isn't it?

-Yes.

0:43:170:43:21

-What are you doing here?

-I'm cooking.

-Right.

0:43:210:43:23

What are you cooking? What are these things? What are these...?

0:43:230:43:26

Richard, climb in behind our shoulders.

0:43:260:43:28

What is this lady doing, please?

0:43:280:43:29

You have to treat me as a simple English native, OK?

0:43:290:43:32

Cos I haven't been to America before.

0:43:320:43:34

She's doing southern-fried chicken with her own recipe.

0:43:340:43:37

What is special about your recipe?

0:43:370:43:39

-It's not her recipe - it's MY recipe!

-Oh, right, sorry.

0:43:390:43:42

-LAUGHTER

-We're doing the wrong person here.

0:43:420:43:45

What is your special recipe? Tell me about it.

0:43:450:43:47

My special recipe, what I did before, is after I cleaned

0:43:500:43:53

the chicken and stuff, I marinated it in red pepper, a little ginger...

0:43:530:43:58

-Right.

-..some hot sauce...

0:43:580:44:02

..white pepper and a little chicken base.

0:44:020:44:05

Marinate it for a little while

0:44:050:44:07

and stick it in the walk-in refrigerator.

0:44:070:44:09

Then afterwards, I have an egg wash and flour mixture,

0:44:090:44:12

just regular flour and egg wash with milk in it.

0:44:120:44:16

And I dipped the chicken in there, dipped it in the flour

0:44:160:44:18

then I double dipped again, which makes it crunchy.

0:44:180:44:21

Crunchy. Brilliantly crunchy. Can I have a quick...?

0:44:210:44:23

Excuse me, I know this is going to deprive some poor airman...but...

0:44:230:44:28

LAUGHTER

0:44:280:44:30

It's very good.

0:44:300:44:31

It's really good.

0:44:330:44:34

-What's happening here?

-These are black-eyed peas.

0:44:340:44:37

What, from the song, like, "It was the 3rd of June,

0:44:370:44:39

"another dusty Delta day," wasn't it?

0:44:390:44:41

-Yes, that's right.

-"Papa said, 'Pass the black-eyed peas.' "

0:44:410:44:44

-And what else is in here?

-They're made with ham hocks and onion.

0:44:450:44:48

And cooked for about eight hours in their own sauce.

0:44:490:44:52

That is fabulous. This is...

0:44:520:44:54

Well, I mean, that is, like, sort of a cassoulet,

0:44:560:44:59

like a French dish of beans and pork and stuff.

0:44:590:45:01

I think it's absolutely fabulous.

0:45:010:45:03

I've been making these things, you see.

0:45:030:45:05

This is a very, very British kind of dish. Richard knows this.

0:45:050:45:07

I made it on a fishing trawler.

0:45:070:45:09

Actually went out and caught these myself,

0:45:090:45:11

shelled every single one of them, melted the butter in.

0:45:110:45:13

Look at that face.

0:45:130:45:15

I didn't do that to your okra and to your black-eyed peas.

0:45:150:45:18

Well, it might taste very good, but it just doesn't look very good.

0:45:180:45:20

Look, OK, look... These are what? These, you've made.

0:45:200:45:23

-These are what, please?

-Cornbreads.

0:45:230:45:25

-These are cornbreads, individual cornbreads.

-Made from corn.

-Right.

0:45:250:45:28

And I reckon my potted shrimps on top of your corn bread

0:45:280:45:32

as a little aperitif to a meal...

0:45:320:45:35

..you would really enjoy them. I think you would.

0:45:350:45:38

And I'd like you to taste some and see.

0:45:380:45:40

Now, it's perfectly OK.

0:45:400:45:41

If you say they're dreadful, we will, of course,

0:45:410:45:44

edit this whole sequence from the... LAUGHTER

0:45:440:45:47

-..from the programme.

-Of course, of course.

0:45:470:45:49

-So, tell me...

-Mmm.

0:45:490:45:53

-See what you think.

-Is it really good?

-Mmm.

0:45:530:45:56

These are cooked with just...

0:45:560:45:58

Just boiled, and then they're mixed up with melted butter

0:45:580:46:01

and mace and black pepper.

0:46:010:46:03

-It needs a little bit of salt.

-It tastes like shrimp.

0:46:030:46:05

-It's lovely, though.

-It does.

-Tastes just like shrimp.

0:46:050:46:08

The corn bread kind of overpowers it a little.

0:46:080:46:10

It is shrimp? Oh, good.

0:46:100:46:13

-You reckon it needs more salt, you think?

-Yes, I do.

0:46:130:46:16

I don't think I'll open up a potted shrimp factory

0:46:160:46:18

in Memphis, Tennessee.

0:46:180:46:19

I think I'll go and have another mint julep

0:46:190:46:21

with some people who really appreciate me.

0:46:210:46:23

See you later, girls, bye! THEY LAUGH

0:46:230:46:25

Who was that schmuck?

0:46:260:46:28

THEY LAUGH

0:46:280:46:30

BBC commissionaires would do well

0:46:300:46:32

to take this guy's correspondence course - he's brilliant.

0:46:320:46:35

Even so, I feel a little hurt that my potted shrimps didn't meet

0:46:350:46:38

with Auntie Sam's approval.

0:46:380:46:40

And I'd love to know what they were saying behind my back,

0:46:400:46:42

the little monkeys.

0:46:420:46:43

Never mind, I've booked a table for lunch at Congham Hall,

0:46:430:46:46

cooked by ace chef Robert Harrison.

0:46:460:46:48

It's time in the programme for a piece of serious cooking,

0:46:480:46:51

and I'm going to take a backseat here and let Robert, my old mate,

0:46:510:46:54

cook some scallops for us.

0:46:540:46:55

I know he's already got some chopped shallots,

0:46:550:46:58

little bits of chopped bacon. Now, that's a julienne of vegetables.

0:46:580:47:00

-That's right.

-What are the vegetables in there?

0:47:000:47:02

There's a mixture of peppers - green, red, white peppers -

0:47:020:47:05

carrots, celery, leeks, but anything you want, really,

0:47:050:47:07

-anything that takes your fancy.

-Fine, good.

0:47:070:47:09

Some fresh - and that's the good, really exciting thing -

0:47:090:47:11

-fresh, chopped basil.

-That's the main ingredient.

0:47:110:47:14

-This is lime juice.

-That's right, yes.

-Lime juice.

0:47:140:47:16

And some excellent Norfolk fresh scallops.

0:47:160:47:19

And a bit of Gewurztraminer as the wine to do it.

0:47:190:47:23

-So, what do we actually do?

-Right, shall I start cooking?

-Yes, please.

0:47:230:47:26

So you put the butter in the pan, get it very, very hot

0:47:260:47:29

and we fry the shallots...and the bacon.

0:47:290:47:31

Shallots first, and then the bacon.

0:47:310:47:32

Very, very hot but no colour - that's very important.

0:47:320:47:35

Those have got to start off on their own before the bacon goes in?

0:47:350:47:38

-No, the bacon at the same time.

-Right.

-Lovely.

0:47:380:47:40

And about half of that.

0:47:400:47:42

-As quick as you can.

-LAUGHS: Right, yes!

0:47:430:47:45

-So fry it really, really well, no colour whatsoever.

-Right.

0:47:470:47:50

So, now it's time for the scallops. So, lightly season.

0:47:500:47:52

-Straight in.

-Are you in on that, Richard, there?

0:47:560:47:59

Scallops, shallots and bacon at this stage.

0:48:000:48:03

Again, no colour, and we cook the scallops until they're just opaque.

0:48:030:48:05

No more, otherwise they get very tough, very chewy.

0:48:050:48:08

-We fry them up quite well.

-Right.

0:48:100:48:12

-And now the second main ingredient, the Gewurztraminer.

-Right.

0:48:120:48:16

-And how much of that in there?

-Erm...pour.

0:48:160:48:19

More, more.

0:48:190:48:21

That's fine, that's fine.

0:48:210:48:23

And the lime juice, please.

0:48:230:48:25

Whoa!

0:48:270:48:28

-Too much lime juice.

-I put too much lime juice in.

0:48:280:48:31

You'll be eating it, so it's OK.

0:48:310:48:33

So, at this stage they're quite opaque, they're fine,

0:48:330:48:36

we take them out, keep them warm

0:48:360:48:38

-and later on we can put them back in just to finish cooking.

-Right.

0:48:380:48:41

And again, it's very important not to overcook scallops,

0:48:410:48:44

or even boil them, et cetera.

0:48:440:48:45

-OK. So those go to one side for the second.

-They go to one side.

0:48:470:48:51

We've reduced the liquid with that lime juice.

0:48:510:48:53

-And then we're going to add butter, as in a beurre blanc.

-Sure.

0:48:540:48:57

So that sauce is now reduced, thanks to the magic of television,

0:48:570:49:00

and the next phase continues with, what, the julienne of vegetables?

0:49:000:49:04

What's the...?

0:49:040:49:06

You know, I'm totally convinced that British chefs are in the ascendancy,

0:49:060:49:09

we're not so frightened of imitating the French and so on any more.

0:49:090:49:13

What's, in your mind, the state of British cooking?

0:49:130:49:16

I think, really, with all the local produce we're getting,

0:49:160:49:19

and especially the young vegetables that are now being picked,

0:49:190:49:22

new suppliers coming along - that's why, really,

0:49:220:49:24

-chefs are becoming more... better cooks, really.

-Yeah.

0:49:240:49:27

-Because of the...?

-It's a matter of supply, I think.

-Matters of supply.

0:49:270:49:30

And the great interest taken, of course, by the suppliers,

0:49:300:49:33

by the cooks, the housewife now is getting more involved,

0:49:330:49:36

so they're demanding more all the time.

0:49:360:49:38

You've got it absolutely made, cos you can walk out

0:49:380:49:40

into the garden and pick whatever you like.

0:49:400:49:42

-It's perfect. Excuse me.

-PAN CLATTERS

0:49:420:49:44

What would you do if you weren't, you know, if you weren't a chef?

0:49:440:49:46

Have you got something else you'd really like to do?

0:49:460:49:49

Um, I always wanted to write.

0:49:490:49:50

THEY LAUGH

0:49:500:49:52

So, the butter's in there, Richard, if you'd like to have a...

0:49:530:49:57

..a very good look at that.

0:49:570:49:58

And just lier that with the liquid.

0:50:000:50:03

And there is no cream in there at all, just the...

0:50:040:50:07

Keeps it very velvety, very light. No cream.

0:50:070:50:10

At that stage, we add the scallops and the juices.

0:50:120:50:15

Just again, reheat, finish their cooking process very carefully.

0:50:150:50:18

Do you have difficulty in getting people to work along with you?

0:50:200:50:23

Erm... No. I mean, the boys in the kitchen are very,

0:50:230:50:26

very into their food as well. They really enjoy it.

0:50:260:50:29

They show a lot of interest and they give me ideas too, of course.

0:50:290:50:32

-Oh, really?

-Lots of ideas.

0:50:320:50:34

-What's the next phase...?

-The last thing is the basil,

0:50:350:50:37

which I add at the end so it stays very fresh, very green,

0:50:370:50:40

the flavour really comes out.

0:50:400:50:42

Lots of basil. I love it.

0:50:420:50:43

It's up to you.

0:50:450:50:47

Again, in the summer, in the garden, we have red basil,

0:50:470:50:49

we have cinnamon-scented basil, lemon-scented basil.

0:50:490:50:52

It's lovely, you can just add a whole combination

0:50:520:50:54

of flavours just from one herb.

0:50:540:50:56

It really is my favourite herb.

0:50:560:50:57

You need to be as much a gardener these days to be a cook

0:50:570:51:01

as anything else, don't you?

0:51:010:51:02

-A greedy gardener, yes.

-A greedy gardener.

0:51:020:51:05

You don't look a greedy man to me. You're quite...

0:51:050:51:08

Well, it's all the hard work picking the herbs.

0:51:080:51:11

So that's it.

0:51:110:51:13

So, whack it on down here.

0:51:140:51:15

I'll pour some wine, cos I think you deserve some.

0:51:150:51:17

That looks a supreme dish to me.

0:51:170:51:20

So, whack it on, as you say.

0:51:200:51:21

-You can smell the basil coming through.

-You certainly can.

0:51:270:51:29

I think of the Gewurztraminer wine, too, it keeps the scent

0:51:290:51:32

so well in the cooking process.

0:51:320:51:34

-Add some more sauce.

-Mmm.

0:51:360:51:38

Now, this isn't actually a difficult dish to cook, is it?

0:51:400:51:43

I mean, there's an awful mystique which surrounds cooking.

0:51:430:51:47

Here's one dish which is simplicity itself, as long as what -

0:51:470:51:50

-what are the golden rules for this dish?

-I think you've got to watch...

0:51:500:51:53

A lot of people put cream in beurre blanc to stop them curdling.

0:51:530:51:55

I just don't like cream in beurre blanc.

0:51:550:51:57

It must be very velvety, very light.

0:51:570:51:59

And that's got to be watched, of course,

0:51:590:52:00

you know, make sure it doesn't curdle.

0:52:000:52:02

And just your own sense of flavour, really.

0:52:020:52:04

And the freshness of the herbs and the freshness of the vegetables -

0:52:040:52:07

-that's essential, isn't it?

-Can I pinch some too?

-Ooh, sorry!

0:52:070:52:10

And again, not overcooking, keeping everything very fresh.

0:52:130:52:15

That's why this is simple - very fresh, very light.

0:52:150:52:18

-But too much lime juice.

-That was me, my fault.

0:52:180:52:20

It doesn't matter - they can't taste it!

0:52:220:52:24

KEITH LAUGHS

0:52:240:52:26

Now, are you sitting comfortably?

0:52:330:52:35

Because I mean this in the nicest possible way, and I don't

0:52:350:52:38

want you East Anglians to get upset about what I'm going to say.

0:52:380:52:41

Promise?

0:52:410:52:42

But, you see, this placid region is set in a sort of a time warp.

0:52:420:52:45

Even the proud village names are carved from marzipan,

0:52:450:52:48

and I feel that the spirit of good King Wuffingas lives,

0:52:480:52:51

or has, in fact, never gone away.

0:52:510:52:54

But, back to the cooking,

0:52:540:52:55

and I want to create something which says East Anglia on a plate.

0:52:550:52:59

..Cos it's the garden centre of England like peas

0:52:590:53:02

and things like that, so I need, if you've got them,

0:53:020:53:04

a couple of good ducks and a big chunk of smoked bacon.

0:53:040:53:08

Well, we have fresh ducks. Excellent.

0:53:080:53:10

-From...

-Supreme.

-..one of our local producers.

-Brilliant.

0:53:100:53:13

So we'll have three of those. We've got three.

0:53:130:53:16

And a large chunk of that... About...

0:53:160:53:19

-..of that smoked bacon.

-You say where.

-About there.

0:53:190:53:21

-That would be fantastic.

-Right there.

0:53:210:53:23

-That would be superb.

-Mm-hm.

-Thank you very much.

0:53:230:53:25

Now, while you're just cutting that,

0:53:250:53:27

I've spotted something here which rather fascinates me.

0:53:270:53:30

-Now, can I cut into this?

-You may.

0:53:300:53:33

In my programmes, I keep telling you about the importance

0:53:330:53:36

of dripping for cooking with.

0:53:360:53:38

And what is underneath it is that rich, brown jelly

0:53:380:53:40

that you can make stocks and sauces from.

0:53:400:53:43

Look at this. From here, you can actually buy it.

0:53:430:53:46

This is what you must all have in your larders all the time.

0:53:480:53:52

Can't get it out! Hoist by my own petard.

0:53:540:53:57

And there you've got this lovely, lovely brown stuff.

0:53:570:54:00

Just melt that over a little piece of fillet steak or a turkey breast

0:54:000:54:03

and you've got a fantastic sauce.

0:54:030:54:05

Good cooking has, sort of, good larders

0:54:050:54:07

and that's the sort of thing we need.

0:54:070:54:08

There's something else here which is superb, I'm very fond of.

0:54:080:54:11

-This is called brawn. It is brawn, isn't it?

-It is brawn.

0:54:110:54:14

And it's pig's head and stuff like that.

0:54:140:54:18

Also simmered away, straight off the bones

0:54:180:54:20

and allowed to set in that pot.

0:54:200:54:23

Something which typifies real, real English cooking.

0:54:230:54:27

Wonderful stuff from Keith there.

0:54:320:54:33

There's still plenty more to come on today's show as we bring you

0:54:330:54:37

some of the best moments from the Saturday Kitchen archives.

0:54:370:54:39

Coming up, Rick Stein takes on Stephane Reynaud in

0:54:390:54:42

the Saturday Kitchen omelette challenge, and then it's over to

0:54:420:54:45

Will Holland, who's serving up a starter

0:54:450:54:47

fit enough to grace any Christmas table.

0:54:470:54:49

He makes a parsnip and vanilla soup

0:54:490:54:51

and serves over pan-fried scallops and saffron-poached quince.

0:54:510:54:55

And Johnny Vegas faces his food heaven or his food hell.

0:54:550:54:58

Did he get his food heaven -

0:54:580:54:59

Vodka-and-tonic soft-shell crab with saffron aioli and seasonal salad?

0:54:590:55:03

Or his food hell - Christmas pudding ice cream with

0:55:030:55:06

sauteed pineapple and a star-anise cinammon caramel?

0:55:060:55:09

Stay tuned till the end of the show to find out what he got.

0:55:090:55:12

Now it's over to David Everitt-Matthias, who's got

0:55:120:55:16

a dessert, just in case you've got any Christmas pudding left over.

0:55:160:55:19

-Great to have you on the show, David.

-Hello again.

0:55:190:55:21

What are we going to cook, then, chef?

0:55:210:55:23

We've got a tonne of ingredients out here.

0:55:230:55:25

OK, I'm doing a leftover Christmas pudding tart

0:55:250:55:27

with a cranberry puree swipe and a mascarpone cream, Amaretto cream.

0:55:270:55:33

You want me to do the, sort of... These are these almonds...

0:55:330:55:35

These are sugared almonds, which is just Cointreau, almonds,

0:55:350:55:39

pine kernels and icing sugar, and we need to crystallise them.

0:55:390:55:42

So the whole lot go in together, don't they, in this pan, right?

0:55:420:55:45

-So the sugar's going to go on.

-I'll explain the pastry for now.

0:55:450:55:48

Watch yourself when you do this.

0:55:500:55:51

-Yeah.

-Because of that!

-Ooh!

0:55:510:55:54

Very quick, easy recipe.

0:55:540:55:55

"Very easy" - that's why I get to do it, yeah.

0:55:550:55:57

Everything goes in the food processor,

0:55:590:56:02

pulsed until it forms breadcrumbs,

0:56:020:56:05

and then finally you put the eggs in and it forms an adhesive ball.

0:56:050:56:10

Wrap them in clingfilm, place it in the fridge for about two hours

0:56:100:56:14

just to firm up...

0:56:140:56:16

-Just need to rest them, really?

-Yeah, it does, it does.

-OK.

0:56:160:56:19

-Then we line our tarts.

-So, these are the almonds.

0:56:190:56:23

You basically just, although it's icing sugar,

0:56:230:56:25

we continue cooking these and they start to...

0:56:250:56:27

They start to crystallise, yeah. And that's what we want on that.

0:56:270:56:30

So the tarts will be...

0:56:300:56:32

The pastry will be rolled out quite finely, lined,

0:56:320:56:35

some clingfilm put in, some split peas or lentils or rice

0:56:350:56:40

or whatever you want, and put in the oven about 180

0:56:400:56:43

for about 10 minutes until it's nice and golden brown.

0:56:430:56:45

Right, I'm doing the crumble mixture, which has got

0:56:450:56:48

ground almonds, some sugar, flour...

0:56:480:56:50

Flour and lemon zest, yeah.

0:56:500:56:52

-And that's it. And some butter added to it.

-Yeah.

-So...

0:56:520:56:55

-OK. And I'll go onto the pastry cream.

-So the creme pat, this is.

0:56:550:56:59

-Yeah. So, milk...

-Yeah.

-..cream.

0:56:590:57:03

We can do the crumble, James, if you want.

0:57:050:57:07

-Sorry?

-We can do the crumble, yeah?

-Er... Yeah.

0:57:070:57:10

-LAUGHTER

-Yeah.

0:57:100:57:12

-Crumble - you just mix this together.

-That's right.

0:57:120:57:15

-And in a bowl, the other half of the sugar.

-Yeah.

0:57:150:57:19

And some egg yolks.

0:57:190:57:20

Whisk those up till they're nice and pale.

0:57:200:57:22

So, tell us about the restaurant, then, because it's unusual enough to

0:57:220:57:25

have a restaurant that's been running for 20 years, let alone

0:57:250:57:28

one that has been at the top of its game, you know?

0:57:280:57:30

Well, it's something that I've always wanted to do

0:57:300:57:33

since I was a child.

0:57:330:57:35

Um, and...

0:57:350:57:37

..we just started and it's just grown and grown

0:57:380:57:41

and grown from there.

0:57:410:57:43

-But for 26 years...

-For 26 years.

0:57:430:57:45

I still love getting up every day, going down there, cooking,

0:57:450:57:50

it's still an excitement to me, so as long as it's excitement,

0:57:500:57:54

-I'll carry on doing that, you know?

-Yeah.

0:57:540:57:57

And what is it with the two Michelin stars?

0:57:570:57:59

Is that consistency?

0:57:590:58:00

What do you find that is, to be at the level that you're in

0:58:000:58:03

for that amount of time?

0:58:030:58:04

Well, I don't think anybody really knows the raison d'etre

0:58:040:58:08

behind the Michelin, but I think you hit the nail on the head there

0:58:080:58:11

with consistency, I think that's one of the big things.

0:58:110:58:15

So I've got the flour, cornflour in with the eggs.

0:58:150:58:19

-We pour the milk and cream...over the top.

-Yeah.

0:58:190:58:24

Whisk that up.

0:58:260:58:28

Right, we just basically bring all this crumble together,

0:58:280:58:31

and then you bake this again, don't you?

0:58:310:58:33

Yeah, it goes on a tray, just to bake through a little bit

0:58:330:58:36

-until it's nice and golden.

-OK. All done.

0:58:360:58:39

So, I mean, it's been an incredible year for you.

0:58:400:58:42

Micky's been busy in 2013, but you've been extremely busy in 2013.

0:58:420:58:47

Yeah, we sort of got a clutch of awards.

0:58:470:58:51

Starting off with a perfect 10 out of 10 in The Guardian

0:58:520:58:56

from Marina O'Loughlin, the first one she's ever given.

0:58:560:59:01

-And then the Good Food Guide Chef of the Year.

-Yeah.

0:59:010:59:04

And finished off with Observer Outstanding Contribution.

0:59:040:59:09

-Not bad, is it?

-No.

-Superb.

0:59:090:59:11

So, I wouldn't worry about this scrambling.

0:59:110:59:13

I know you've got eggs in there,

0:59:130:59:15

but it's quite stabilised because of the cornflour in.

0:59:150:59:18

You use the mixture of cornflour and flour?

0:59:180:59:21

-Yeah, you can use just flour, but it makes it heavier.

-Right.

0:59:210:59:25

So we whisk this up until it's really, really nice and thick.

0:59:250:59:29

-We might want that as well.

-Lovely.

-There you go.

0:59:330:59:37

Right, these, sort of, almonds, that kind of stuff,

0:59:370:59:39

it will actually start to caramelise again.

0:59:390:59:41

You can see it starts to get sticky,

0:59:410:59:43

and if you keep cooking this and cooking it,

0:59:430:59:45

but you don't want to colour it, do you, that much?

0:59:450:59:47

No, you don't want any colour on them at all because

0:59:470:59:49

it's representative of Christmas, so...

0:59:490:59:52

So you just basically cook these without colour, really, but you've

0:59:520:59:55

just got to be careful at this point,

0:59:550:59:56

so just take them off at this point, leave them to cool.

0:59:561:00:01

Then brush off the excess, and you end up with

1:00:011:00:03

what we've got over here,

1:00:031:00:04

which are these little almonds and pine nuts.

1:00:041:00:07

Beautiful crisp almonds.

1:00:071:00:09

OK, so, we pass the pastry cream through a sieve.

1:00:091:00:15

-Now, if that wasn't busy enough, you're writing as well?

-Yeah.

1:00:171:00:20

You've got a fantastic book for charity, as well?

1:00:201:00:22

Yeah, I'm doing a book on baking,

1:00:221:00:25

it's just going to be called Bake, funnily enough.

1:00:251:00:27

And it's a collection of recipes from myself,

1:00:271:00:30

and also stages, people who come in and spend some time in the kitchen.

1:00:301:00:33

-Yeah.

-And some of our staff.

1:00:331:00:36

I mean, one of the recipes we've got

1:00:361:00:39

is, um, Splashbot Sam's gooey, um...

1:00:391:00:44

-squidgy thingy.

-Right, OK!

-So, something very like that.

1:00:441:00:49

-So, in goes the Christmas pud.

-Yeah.

1:00:491:00:52

Just get it well combined,

1:00:521:00:56

-and then leave it to cool down.

-Yeah.

-And place in the piping bag.

1:00:561:00:59

So, that's a cooked leftover Christmas pudding?

1:00:591:01:02

Cooked leftover, yeah.

1:01:021:01:03

Right, I'm going to do the cream to go with this,

1:01:031:01:05

-so what have we got in here?

-Mascarpone cream,

1:01:051:01:08

icing sugar and Amaretto.

1:01:081:01:10

-And a little bit of grated nutmeg to go in as well.

-Yeah, just to finish.

1:01:101:01:13

So, we fill our tarts...

1:01:131:01:16

with the mix.

1:01:161:01:17

I'll go and get that over for you.

1:01:171:01:19

-And there's your crumble to go with it.

-Lovely. Sprinkle with some...

1:01:191:01:22

So, people could easily do these in advance, if you wanted?

1:01:221:01:25

-They could do.

-If you wanted to cook

1:01:251:01:27

one of those little microwave puddings

1:01:271:01:29

and make this for Christmas, it would be a good idea.

1:01:291:01:32

-So, give it a good dose...

-There you go.

1:01:321:01:35

But instead of this, I suppose, mincemeat, you could use?

1:01:371:01:39

Yeah, if you haven't got this, even mince pies,

1:01:391:01:42

you could use the whole thing, with the pastry in.

1:01:421:01:45

So, these go straight in the oven.

1:01:451:01:47

I know we've got one in there as well, which is warming.

1:01:471:01:50

-There we are.

-Leave that for a second, while we get plates.

1:01:501:01:54

And then you're going to get ready and do this...

1:01:541:01:56

Well, I know we've got a cranberry sauce to go with it as well.

1:01:561:01:59

OK, we're serving a cranberry sauce puree, which is

1:01:591:02:02

basically cranberry sauce, milk, water and sugar.

1:02:021:02:06

Just boiled up, passed and left to get cool.

1:02:061:02:10

And as it cools, it will thicken up.

1:02:101:02:12

-So, that will give us the sauce for the base of this.

-OK.

1:02:121:02:15

-Well, that's the cream ready.

-Wonderful.

-There we go.

1:02:151:02:19

Now, you want to start plating up,

1:02:191:02:21

I'll get these other ones that are in here.

1:02:211:02:23

And how long would you cook these for?

1:02:251:02:28

-15 minutes, about 180, until they are nice and golden brown.

-OK.

1:02:281:02:33

-OK, so, we can start plating.

-So, are you open this Christmas?

1:02:331:02:38

-The 21st is our last day.

-Yup?

1:02:381:02:41

So, got a nice, easy time in France after that, for a little while.

1:02:411:02:46

-Right, so this is this...

-Cranberry puree going on.

1:02:461:02:51

Little swipe of that.

1:02:531:02:55

-I've got a little tartlet done there.

-OK.

1:02:561:02:59

-There you go.

-Little dusting of icing sugar.

1:02:591:03:02

I'll get you a...

1:03:041:03:05

-There we are.

-Thank you.

-I'll get you a spoon.

1:03:071:03:10

So, while we are plating this, all of today's recipes,

1:03:101:03:13

including this fantastic one from David, are on our website.

1:03:131:03:16

Go to bbc.co.uk/saturdaykitchen.

1:03:161:03:19

Right, so, there, then, that's to go on it as well,

1:03:191:03:22

-and then you've got a hot spoon...

-A nice little...

1:03:221:03:26

..quenelle of cream.

1:03:301:03:31

And a little more, so you get a little bit with each bite.

1:03:331:03:37

-Serve it warm?

-Served warm, yeah.

1:03:371:03:39

-Happy with that?

-Yup.

1:03:411:03:44

So, give us the name of this, then?

1:03:441:03:45

OK, leftover Christmas pudding tart,

1:03:451:03:48

cranberry puree swipe and Amaretto mascarpone cream.

1:03:481:03:52

And is the restaurant back open tonight?

1:03:521:03:54

-Yeah, full restaurant.

-There you go.

1:03:541:03:56

-As soon as this is finished.

-Have a look at that.

1:03:561:03:58

Right, you get to dive into this one.

1:04:021:04:05

-So, have a seat over here, David.

-Thank you.

1:04:051:04:08

Dive into that, tell us what you think of that one.

1:04:081:04:10

-I was very interested in the Chef of the Year award...

-Yeah?

1:04:101:04:15

I mean, what's the criteria for getting into the actual competition?

1:04:151:04:18

Well, the editor just gives an award every year,

1:04:181:04:21

it's one of the editor's awards,

1:04:211:04:22

out of all the inspections that she's done, she just chooses

1:04:221:04:26

whichever is her favourite, and this year it fell on us.

1:04:261:04:29

It is an amazing restaurant, because you do 35, 40 covers?

1:04:291:04:33

Yeah, it's a maximum of 35, we have three in the kitchen

1:04:331:04:35

and myself, and a couple of other stages that come in,

1:04:351:04:39

throughout the year.

1:04:391:04:40

-Normally, once a week, actually, we have somebody new in.

-A stage?

1:04:401:04:44

A stage is somebody coming in for work experience.

1:04:441:04:47

-Work experience.

-Ah!

-They might be from another...

1:04:471:04:49

They start off a star already?

1:04:491:04:51

-Yes!

-Just a stage at the moment.

-What do you reckon to that?

1:04:511:04:54

That is absolutely superb.

1:04:541:04:56

I couldn't have said it better myself, Micky.

1:05:001:05:02

What a superb dessert from David there.

1:05:021:05:04

Time now for another classic omelette challenge,

1:05:041:05:07

as Stephane Reynaud looks to overtake Rick Stein on the leaderboard.

1:05:071:05:10

All the chefs on the show battle it out against the clock

1:05:101:05:13

and each other, to test how fast

1:05:131:05:14

they can make a simple three-egg omelette.

1:05:141:05:16

-Now, Stephane, pretty respectable time here, 40 seconds.

-Yes.

1:05:161:05:19

Slightly behind the man next to you, Rick Stein over here, 39 seconds.

1:05:191:05:25

-Oh, gosh!

-He really doesn't like this bit at all.

1:05:251:05:28

You can choose what you like from the ingredients

1:05:281:05:30

put in front of you, and I know it's going to be a really good race here.

1:05:301:05:32

You've got butter, milk, cream, eggs.

1:05:321:05:34

It must be a three-egg omelette, cooked as fast as you can.

1:05:341:05:36

Let's put the clocks on the screen, please.

1:05:361:05:38

Remember, this is just for you at home,

1:05:381:05:40

-the guys in the studio can't see them. Are you ready?

-Yes.

1:05:401:05:43

Let's see if practice pays off.

1:05:431:05:45

Three-egg omelette, as fast as you can. Three, two, one, go!

1:05:451:05:48

Oh, my God, I've dropped the eggs already!

1:05:501:05:53

-When was the last time you made an omelette, Rick?

-Oh, shut up, James!

1:05:531:05:56

I knew this was going to happen! He's miles ahead!

1:05:561:05:59

-You got to have salt...

-You've got to have butter in the pan.

1:05:591:06:02

Will this be the record time?

1:06:051:06:08

I doubt it very much.

1:06:081:06:10

I just love the concentration on it!

1:06:121:06:15

Charlie, apparently, your dad makes the best omelettes, does he?

1:06:151:06:18

Oh, yeah, my dad was the king of omelettes!

1:06:181:06:20

That's finished, that one. GONG

1:06:201:06:23

-Oh!

-Don't worry.

-Sorry!

1:06:231:06:26

Don't worry, Rick, don't worry.

1:06:271:06:29

No, no, I'm going to make it.

1:06:291:06:30

I'll put some pepper on it...

1:06:321:06:34

You need a truffle to finish the omelette!

1:06:351:06:37

GONG Hey! There we go.

1:06:371:06:39

Look at that!

1:06:391:06:41

It looks a good omelette.

1:06:411:06:43

It took its time, but it's a good omelette.

1:06:431:06:45

What is that you've got on there?

1:06:451:06:47

-Black pepper? Right.

-Oh, he got that, too.

1:06:471:06:51

-It's omelette.

-It's an omelette.

1:06:521:06:55

And this took its time, but it's an omelette.

1:06:551:06:58

I love the way you take a tiny, tiny bit from each one!

1:06:591:07:02

I don't blame you!

1:07:021:07:03

Charlie, you've travelled the world, mate,

1:07:031:07:05

there's nothing more dangerous than that.

1:07:051:07:08

-Right.

-OK.

-Rick...

1:07:081:07:11

Da-da-da-daah...!

1:07:111:07:13

-Do you think you beat your time?

-No, I don't.

1:07:131:07:17

But I don't mind. It looks so much better than the last one.

1:07:171:07:19

It did look a lot better,

1:07:191:07:20

but you're right, you didn't beat your time, 49.56 seconds.

1:07:201:07:24

-You can take that home and put it on your fridge. Stephane...

-Yes?

1:07:241:07:29

Let me know.

1:07:291:07:30

-Do you think you beat your time as well?

-I really don't know.

1:07:301:07:34

-But it's still very, um, ugly!

-Ugly!

1:07:341:07:37

I'm going to say that you DID beat your time.

1:07:371:07:39

There you go. You beat everybody else on this board.

1:07:391:07:43

-Well done!

-Hey!

1:07:431:07:45

But if it was judged on taste, it wouldn't go on the board!

1:07:451:07:48

But this is 32.38 seconds, so joint with the Hairy Biker boys there.

1:07:481:07:54

Pretty respectable time.

1:07:541:07:56

And Rick Stein...

1:07:561:07:58

Unbelievable.

1:07:581:08:00

A great result for Stephane there, leapfrogging Rick,

1:08:041:08:07

who was just showing it's all about quality over speed.

1:08:071:08:09

Up next, Will Holland is here with a sumptuous soup and scallop starter.

1:08:091:08:14

Right, what are you going to show Warren how to cook, then?

1:08:141:08:17

What's the first dish he's going to learn over there?

1:08:171:08:19

The first dish we're going to teach Warren today,

1:08:191:08:21

-we're going to do a lovely soup of parsnip and vanilla.

-Parsnip and vanilla?

1:08:211:08:25

And then we're going to have some quince poached with saffron

1:08:251:08:27

and we're going to pop some scallops in there as well.

1:08:271:08:30

All right, so you want me to do the quince first?

1:08:301:08:32

Yes, you start with the quince.

1:08:321:08:34

I need you to make a stock syrup with some saffron in there.

1:08:341:08:37

Poaching liquor is water and sugar, yeah?

1:08:371:08:39

-That's the one. And I'm going to get on the soup straightaway.

-Yeah.

1:08:391:08:43

So that's going to go on there. I'll turn that one up and that one up.

1:08:431:08:47

You don't see quince used very much these days, do you?

1:08:471:08:49

Well, it's in season, isn't it?

1:08:491:08:51

It's in season.

1:08:511:08:52

I think the reason you don't see it very often is

1:08:521:08:54

because people don't really know what to do with it.

1:08:541:08:57

-And so this is...

-Warren's looking and thinking,

1:08:571:08:59

"I don't know what it is." That's what it is, mate.

1:08:591:09:02

I though that was a kumquat. What's a kumquat?

1:09:021:09:04

THEY LAUGH

1:09:041:09:06

It won't ever get softer than that.

1:09:061:09:08

You know, quince don't ripen.

1:09:081:09:11

Or, they're ripe when they're still firm. So, it's...

1:09:111:09:15

A cross between a pear and an apple, isn't it?

1:09:151:09:17

Yeah, but you use them when they're really, really hard, like that.

1:09:171:09:20

But you have to cook with them. And also they go brown.

1:09:201:09:22

Yeah, they go brown,

1:09:221:09:23

so I'm going to get you to do a little bit of water with some

1:09:231:09:26

lemon juice in there, James, and that will just help stop that.

1:09:261:09:30

Yep. We've got some saffron in there, as well,

1:09:301:09:32

in that poaching liquor. Now, you're going to cook them in sugar?

1:09:321:09:35

Although you're serving this as a soup, you going to cook them in sugar, as well?

1:09:351:09:39

Yeah, well, I'm going to get some sort of sweet elements going on in there because

1:09:391:09:43

parsnips are quite sweet, scallops are actually quite sweet.

1:09:431:09:48

So it's just a nice sort of sweet soup for a cold day.

1:09:481:09:55

So what I've got in here is the butter, onion and garlic,

1:09:551:09:59

and I'm going to stick a lid on that, just so the...

1:09:591:10:02

..we don't get any colour. I don't want any crispy onions while I prepare my parsnips.

1:10:021:10:07

-So this is a white soup, basically?

-It's a white soup, yes.

1:10:071:10:10

-All being well.

-So 2010 has been a great year for you in the restaurant?

1:10:101:10:14

It's been really, really good, actually, yeah.

1:10:141:10:16

Started off with retaining my Michelin Star, which is always good.

1:10:161:10:22

And then we've just got a really nice momentum to the restaurant.

1:10:221:10:26

Various awards and accolades have been coming in.

1:10:261:10:31

Ones like the Sunday Times did their top 100 restaurants

1:10:311:10:35

in the country list, and I managed to get number 19, which was good.

1:10:351:10:39

Well, you're going in the right direction because, I mean,

1:10:391:10:42

in all of them you're going up the charts.

1:10:421:10:44

Yeah, there's the National Restaurant Awards, as well,

1:10:441:10:47

held this year, and last year I was 87

1:10:471:10:50

and this year I've managed to climb to 44.

1:10:501:10:54

So kind of halved my score, which was good.

1:10:541:10:58

In the right way. I'll do that for you.

1:10:581:11:01

-Give us a hand chopping that.

-So you've taken the skin off already?

1:11:011:11:04

I've taken the skin off, but I haven't taken the core out.

1:11:041:11:07

Some people, if they make parsnip puree or soup, take the core,

1:11:071:11:10

but I think at this time of the season,

1:11:101:11:14

parsnips are still nice and tender.

1:11:141:11:18

So I'm quite happy to leave the core in there.

1:11:181:11:20

Maybe after Christmas, as the season goes on, you know, they become

1:11:201:11:26

a little bit more woody and then it might be a case of just taking the core out.

1:11:261:11:30

Getting them out the ground in Scotland's the difficulty, isn't it? Finding them.

1:11:301:11:34

That's it. They'll be frozen into the ground.

1:11:341:11:36

But you do need a bit of frost on parsnips, I think,

1:11:361:11:38

to bring out the sweetness.

1:11:381:11:39

A little bit of frost. Not... Not rock-hard.

1:11:391:11:43

-About two foot of snow where he is.

-That's it.

1:11:431:11:45

So they're in there sweating with the butter,

1:11:451:11:48

and I'm going to put the liquid in there straightaway.

1:11:481:11:51

-I've got some chicken stock.

-Right.

-Good-quality chicken stock.

1:11:511:11:55

You could use veg stock for this, as well.

1:11:551:11:57

Yeah, if you're a vegetarian, then by all means use veg stock.

1:11:571:12:00

And I've got milk, so it's half/half milk and stock, and it's quite

1:12:001:12:04

-a nice way of making a soup without putting cream in it.

-Right, OK.

1:12:041:12:06

-I know that's not right up your street.

-No, it's fine by me.

1:12:061:12:09

-A creamless dish.

-I've seen the pile of butter over there. That's all right for me.

1:12:091:12:13

And then the other ingredient I've got here, James, is the vanilla pod.

1:12:131:12:16

And as opposed to splitting it and scraping the seeds out,

1:12:161:12:20

-I'm going to put the whole lot in.

-The whole lot?

-I'm just going to use half of that.

1:12:201:12:24

But I mean whole, in that I'm not just going to scrape the seeds out,

1:12:241:12:27

we're going to use the whole thing.

1:12:271:12:29

So that's going to go in there cos we're going to blend the soup and pass it, so that'll take...

1:12:291:12:33

But it has to be this and not vanilla essence or extract?

1:12:331:12:35

-Yeah, use the...

-Please can I ask the question?

1:12:351:12:37

Fish and vanilla, I just don't get it.

1:12:371:12:39

Is it not up your street?

1:12:391:12:41

No, I just... I mean, I've really tried.

1:12:411:12:43

It's quite, kind of, 1980s, isn't it?

1:12:431:12:46

But what about parsnip soup?

1:12:461:12:48

Parsnip and vanilla, I can start to begin to understand.

1:12:481:12:52

Well, this isn't 1980s. What are you doing here, then?

1:12:521:12:54

What you're going to do for me, James, you're going

1:12:541:12:57

to take some lovely sprigs of tarragon.

1:12:571:12:59

I see what you mean, but it is French.

1:12:591:13:01

I mean, the French do like the...

1:13:011:13:02

Yeah, I know where it comes from, and some of the best

1:13:021:13:05

chefs in the world use that combination.

1:13:051:13:08

It's just one I just don't get.

1:13:081:13:09

Let's see if I can change your ways.

1:13:091:13:11

The parsnip could be the vehicle to carry the vanilla to the fish.

1:13:111:13:14

Ah, let's see. Let's hope.

1:13:141:13:16

What on earth are you doing now?

1:13:161:13:18

What we've got here, we're going to...

1:13:181:13:20

I hope you've dusted the microwave off today,

1:13:201:13:22

because we're going to use the microwave.

1:13:221:13:25

I've put some veg oil on a clingfilmed plate, and then

1:13:251:13:28

a few sprigs of tarragon.

1:13:281:13:30

-Yeah, you'll be able to do this bit for me.

-You could do this bit, Warren.

1:13:301:13:34

A bit of tarragon, microwaved tarragon. It'd be great.

1:13:341:13:37

-Loads of that in my fridge.

-We're basically making tarragon crisps.

1:13:371:13:40

So as opposed to deep frying herbs to make them crispy,

1:13:401:13:43

we're using the microwave, and it's a really good way.

1:13:431:13:46

You can do it with all sorts of herbs.

1:13:461:13:48

We're doing it with tarragon today, but you can do it with parsley,

1:13:481:13:52

basil is a great one.

1:13:521:13:53

Little basil leaves. It's really, really good.

1:13:531:13:55

-So this is a little bit of veg oil on here?

-Yep.

1:13:551:13:57

I'll let you carry on with that one while I start opening my scallops.

1:13:571:14:00

-Yeah, thanks for that. Cheers.

-There's no jokes about...

1:14:001:14:03

-You look like you're enjoying yourself, James.

-Sorry?

1:14:031:14:05

-You look like you're enjoying yourself.

-Yeah.

1:14:051:14:07

-Are you happy with that?

-That looks absolutely perfect.

1:14:071:14:10

And then full power? About two minutes, yeah?

1:14:101:14:12

Full power, two minutes, or it might even need two and a half, three minutes.

1:14:121:14:17

-I'm just opening these scallops.

-Full power there.

1:14:171:14:20

Right, the quince is poaching there.

1:14:201:14:21

-The soup's cooking away nicely there.

-Boiling away.

1:14:211:14:24

Scallops, tell us about these hand-dived scallops.

1:14:241:14:26

Yeah, hand-dived.

1:14:261:14:27

-Always buy hand-dived scallops.

-Always from Scotland.

1:14:271:14:30

Always from Scotland, that's it. Scottish scallops.

1:14:301:14:33

No, definitely. Scottish scallops

1:14:331:14:35

are some of the best in the world. Definitely.

1:14:351:14:39

Dived as opposed to dredged.

1:14:391:14:40

You'd say the west coast of Scotland, yeah?

1:14:401:14:42

Mainly the west coast.

1:14:421:14:44

The great thing about the west coast of Scotland

1:14:441:14:46

is it's very rocky, so the dredgers can't get in close to the coast,

1:14:461:14:48

so there's plenty of scallops for the divers to pick up,

1:14:481:14:51

and only 3% of the scallops we eat are actually hand-dived.

1:14:511:14:54

But the difference is unbelievable.

1:14:541:14:57

I would never used a dredged scallop, only hand-dived.

1:14:571:14:59

Don't worry, nobody's noticing this, Will. Don't worry.

1:14:591:15:02

That's all right. You carry on boiling my soup over for me.

1:15:021:15:05

That's sound effects. It's me rustling some sound effects.

1:15:051:15:09

So, the scallops.

1:15:091:15:10

-You don't use the roe for this?

-No, I'm not a fan of the roe, actually.

1:15:101:15:14

I'm glad you said that.

1:15:141:15:15

I'm not a fan at all.

1:15:151:15:17

No, the only thing I could possibly do with it is dry it

1:15:171:15:20

and turn it into a powder.

1:15:201:15:21

Dry it, grind it, paste, powder it. Yep, totally.

1:15:211:15:24

There's no point being nice after you just took the mick

1:15:241:15:26

-out of him saying vanilla.

-No, I'm going to convert Nick today.

1:15:261:15:30

You get quite a lot of chefs, and they leave the roes on the scallops

1:15:301:15:33

and it tastes like overcooked, fishy scrambled eggs.

1:15:331:15:36

Cos it's a totally different thing.

1:15:361:15:38

-The meat is protein and the other thing is a bag of eggs.

-Yep, definitely.

1:15:381:15:42

I'm glad we've agreed on one thing today, Nick.

1:15:421:15:45

What I've done here as well, James,

1:15:451:15:47

is I've cut them in half straight through,

1:15:471:15:49

as opposed to cutting them into pieces that way, just because I

1:15:491:15:52

don't want thin discs that are going to overcook. I want nice chunks.

1:15:521:15:55

I'm going to take this soup now,

1:15:551:15:57

give it a quick blend. So it will actually cook in real-time.

1:15:571:16:01

MICROWAVE BEEPS There you go.

1:16:011:16:04

I've just heard the beep of the microwave,

1:16:041:16:06

-so that's always a good sign.

-Yeah, I'll get that bit.

1:16:061:16:09

Right, so cooking these scallops. I've got my pan here

1:16:091:16:13

and it's warm, but it's not smoking hot.

1:16:131:16:15

So you don't add any cream in here, just a bit of milk, yeah?

1:16:251:16:28

Just the cooking liquor that it's in so it's got a creamy consistency

1:16:281:16:31

-to it, but you don't need to add a hell of a lot of cream.

-Right.

1:16:311:16:35

I'll go check these.

1:16:391:16:41

I'm just going to put the scallops in on the flat side,

1:16:431:16:45

so the cut side down.

1:16:451:16:47

And I've lightly seasoned those with salt.

1:16:471:16:50

Salt in here.

1:16:561:16:59

Right, the scallops only take, what, 20 seconds?

1:16:591:17:01

Yeah, I'm just going to literally colour them on one side

1:17:011:17:04

and then I'm going to turn the pan off and we're going to

1:17:041:17:08

let them cook through on the other side really, really gently.

1:17:081:17:12

There's a sink in the back there if you want to wash your hands.

1:17:121:17:15

-A knob of butter in there.

-There you go. And just pass

1:17:151:17:17

this soup through. And it's got the vanilla, the parsnips

1:17:171:17:20

and everything else in there.

1:17:201:17:21

You can see how lovely and creamy it is.

1:17:211:17:24

The parsnips kind of just emulsify into that lovely soup.

1:17:241:17:28

A touch of lemon in there, as well.

1:17:281:17:31

-That's it.

-There you go.

1:17:311:17:32

Give that a quick stir and we're ready.

1:17:321:17:34

You can see with my scallop pan now,

1:17:341:17:36

I've actually turned that off the heat so it's just the residual heat

1:17:361:17:39

in there cooking those through beautifully.

1:17:391:17:41

We're ready when you are.

1:17:411:17:43

Start plating up. I believe Claire has got an allergy to scallops,

1:17:431:17:46

so I'm not going to try

1:17:461:17:48

and kill one of the guests on Saturday Kitchen today.

1:17:481:17:52

How do you find out you've got an allergy to scallops?

1:17:521:17:55

-You'll find out whether you're allergic to scallops in about ten minutes.

-You'll find out.

1:17:551:18:00

When your face resembles a Michelin man.

1:18:051:18:07

-CLAIRE:

-And you stop breathing.

1:18:071:18:09

So we're going to put these beautiful scallops,

1:18:091:18:12

just nice and plump pieces.

1:18:121:18:14

And if you ladle that soup in for us,

1:18:141:18:18

and you can see my microwaved tarragon.

1:18:181:18:21

Just little pieces.

1:18:231:18:24

Happy with that?

1:18:241:18:26

So, like you said, you can do different types of herbs with this.

1:18:281:18:31

It doesn't have to be tarragon in the microwave.

1:18:311:18:33

Also, I mean, the soup is just a really nice winter warmer.

1:18:331:18:36

If you don't want to do the garnish, then just do the soup.

1:18:361:18:40

Move that over there and you finish that one off. So remind us what that is again.

1:18:401:18:44

It's saffron-poached quince with parsnip and vanilla soup

1:18:441:18:47

and pan-fried scallops.

1:18:471:18:49

Easy as that.

1:18:491:18:50

Put that little bit of extra... microwave on there.

1:18:541:19:00

-There we go.

-Thank you very much.

-Dive into that one.

-Thank you.

1:19:001:19:03

There you go, without the scallops. Tell me what you think.

1:19:031:19:06

Have you ever tried scallops and quince before?

1:19:061:19:08

Oh, every....every Friday.

1:19:081:19:11

Is it a regular flavour combination that you have, Warren?

1:19:111:19:14

-That's fantastic.

-You like that?

-Mm.

-Pretty good.

1:19:141:19:19

What about the quince? Try the quince and the saffron.

1:19:191:19:22

Now, you put quite a bit of saffron in there to get the colour, mainly.

1:19:221:19:25

Yeah, get the colour.

1:19:251:19:26

It just adds a really nice sort of perfume to the dish.

1:19:261:19:29

You've got the vanilla that adds a nice aromat to it,

1:19:291:19:31

-and then you've got the saffron.

-That's brilliant.

1:19:311:19:33

I think Warren's discovered a new favourite food.

1:19:331:19:36

You're just making food up. What's quince?

1:19:361:19:38

-WILL LAUGHS

-I think it grows on a tree.

1:19:381:19:41

-There you go.

-Did you go shopping in Narnia to get these?

1:19:411:19:44

Everyone was dubious about vanilla and fish,

1:19:481:19:51

but Will managed to win them over with ease.

1:19:511:19:53

Now, when Johnny Vegas came into Saturday Kitchen

1:19:531:19:56

to face his food heaven or his food hell,

1:19:561:19:58

he was a sucker for soft-shell crab but turned into the Grinch

1:19:581:20:01

when it came to Christmas pudding.

1:20:011:20:03

His fate rested in the pull of a cracker.

1:20:031:20:06

Now, this clip also features our beloved Antonio Carluccio,

1:20:061:20:09

who sadly passed away earlier this year.

1:20:091:20:12

Right, it's time to find out whether

1:20:121:20:14

Johnny will be facing food heaven or food hell.

1:20:141:20:16

Food heaven would of course be this soft-shell crab, which

1:20:161:20:18

I believe you've never seen before like this?

1:20:181:20:20

I've never seen it unprepared before.

1:20:201:20:22

These are the soft-shell crabs which can be deep-fried in a lovely

1:20:221:20:25

vodka and tonic batter.

1:20:251:20:27

Served with chips and an aioli, which is garlic mayonnaise.

1:20:271:20:31

Alternatively, food hell would be that lovely-looking Christmas pudding there...

1:20:311:20:35

Why does it exist?

1:20:351:20:36

..transformed into ice cream with a nice little caramel sauce

1:20:361:20:39

with star anise cinnamon and nutmeg to go with it, and some pineapple.

1:20:391:20:42

But since it's Christmas, we've got special Christmas crackers here.

1:20:421:20:45

Inside one of these is the word "heaven", inside the other one is

1:20:451:20:48

the word "hell".

1:20:481:20:50

-First of all, choose a cracker.

-Left.

-Which one?

1:20:501:20:53

-This one?

-Yeah.

-Right!

-Left!

-Left? No, that looks...

1:20:531:20:58

-I'm going for the simple...

-Go on, then.

1:20:581:21:01

Right.

1:21:011:21:03

-You've chosen well.

-Wha...

1:21:041:21:06

-You...

-You've chosen well!

1:21:061:21:08

CHEERING

1:21:081:21:10

Yes, yes!

1:21:101:21:12

Just to prove it, you guys pull that one. There you go.

1:21:121:21:15

There you go, soft-shell crab.

1:21:191:21:21

First of all, I'll make the batter for this. I want the guys

1:21:211:21:24

to separate the eggs, two egg yolks into the machine there.

1:21:241:21:29

Flour, we're going to put in. We've got a pinch of sugar.

1:21:291:21:33

That's going in the batter.

1:21:331:21:35

We've got some yeast in there as well. We've got some vodka.

1:21:351:21:37

-We've got a touch of vinegar.

-You're supposed to taste it, aren't you?

1:21:391:21:42

No, not this one.

1:21:421:21:44

Then you've got some tonic. Put all that in there.

1:21:441:21:48

-Wow!

-We'll mix that together into a nice little batter.

1:21:481:21:51

Meanwhile, if you can put the egg yolks

1:21:511:21:54

into that little machine there.

1:21:541:21:55

That would be great. Just egg yolks.

1:21:551:21:57

We're going to make a little mayonnaise.

1:21:571:22:00

A little mayonnaise. We'll make a nice batter,

1:22:001:22:04

but make it not too thick.

1:22:041:22:05

-Just the oil, yeah?

-Yeah. We're going to add the saffron at the end.

1:22:051:22:10

Can we make a Christmas lantern with the lemon?

1:22:101:22:12

If you would like to make a Christmas lantern with the lemon...

1:22:121:22:15

-We've got some saffron.

-Yeah.

1:22:151:22:17

Put that in there with just a touch of white wine to get

1:22:171:22:22

that going first of all.

1:22:221:22:23

Just to infuse out all the flavour of the saffron.

1:22:231:22:27

You get this lovely colour.

1:22:271:22:30

Then put the machine on, get that blended

1:22:301:22:34

-and make a nice little mayonnaise.

-I can't make a...

1:22:341:22:38

What is the key with getting a little mayonnaise?

1:22:381:22:41

Well...add the oil really slowly, that's the key to this one.

1:22:411:22:47

-White wine goes in.

-You add it bit by bit?

-Yeah, tiny bit by tiny bit.

1:22:471:22:51

I poured it all in at once and walked off.

1:22:511:22:55

The Italians would do that, but in this case we don't.

1:22:551:22:57

And this, instead of using olive oil, traditionally in mayonnaise

1:22:591:23:02

cos it's white, they use veg oil,

1:23:021:23:03

so this one's got rapeseed oil which makes it lovely and yellow.

1:23:031:23:08

-Yes, rapeseed oil.

-You just keep adding this slowly.

1:23:081:23:11

The more oil you add, the thicker it becomes.

1:23:111:23:14

To offset that, you add a touch of water if you want.

1:23:141:23:17

It gets thicker and thicker and thicker, you see?

1:23:171:23:19

These are what you've never seen before.

1:23:191:23:21

-You put a little bit of lemon or not?

-We'll do that at the end.

1:23:211:23:24

We've got some garlic and saffron to add at the end.

1:23:241:23:27

-These are the soft-shell crabs... Which they use a lot in Italy.

-Yes!

1:23:271:23:31

-I thought this was predominantly an Asian dish.

-No, no.

1:23:311:23:35

-The Italians have claimed that one as well.

-It was Marco Polo.

1:23:351:23:40

Antonio, I just come back from Venice, there was the last of the soft-shell crabs.

1:23:401:23:45

-Very nice.

-Did you know that they actually drowned these in eggs?

1:23:451:23:50

I know. I know!

1:23:501:23:52

They eat the egg. They drown them and then they fry them. Salad.

1:23:541:23:57

-Using all of it or not?

-Yeah, you can use all of it, yeah.

1:23:571:24:01

So that's going to go in. The garlic, because this is a garlic,

1:24:011:24:03

predominantly garlic mayonnaise,

1:24:031:24:05

-so we cook the garlic beforehand.

-I love garlic.

1:24:051:24:07

We cook the garlic in white wine

1:24:071:24:09

and then you've got the saffron which we'll add in a minute.

1:24:091:24:13

Gennaro, can you look after the chips in the fryer, please?

1:24:131:24:16

Thank you very much.

1:24:161:24:17

-Can I have the saffron, please?

-Yep.

1:24:171:24:20

-We are ready here, this is ready.

-Not far off.

1:24:211:24:24

So you can see we've got the mayonnaise, now we add the saffron.

1:24:241:24:28

-And you can add the bits of saffron as well.

-I will, yeah.

1:24:281:24:30

Bits of saffron, they go in.

1:24:321:24:34

The first time, three Italians here on Saturday Kitchen.

1:24:341:24:38

Tiny bit of mustard, just a tiny bit, a teaspoon.

1:24:381:24:40

Tiny bit of mustard. And then take one clove of garlic. It's been cooked.

1:24:441:24:49

Come on, this is food heaven!

1:24:491:24:50

I cook it to stop it from being too strong. Then all we do...

1:24:501:24:54

Can you take the chips out, Gennaro, please?

1:24:541:24:56

Nearly ready!

1:24:561:24:58

-You can do it. I just need the fryer.

-Right.

1:24:591:25:01

That's it.

1:25:061:25:08

So, hot oil. I'll put one of 'em in.

1:25:081:25:11

They are seasonal, aren't they?

1:25:111:25:13

-Yeah, these ones.

-Cos my mum's tried to fake this by leaving them

1:25:131:25:16

on a radiator like crayons.

1:25:161:25:18

-Then you throw in your crab like that.

-Wow!

1:25:191:25:23

-If you want to put the other one in...

-Yeah.

1:25:231:25:25

That's it, straight in.

1:25:281:25:30

Between me and you, cos these guys won't have a clue about scraps,

1:25:321:25:37

-you've got to have scraps.

-Oh, aye.

1:25:371:25:38

-You see.

-Scraps - I love it.

1:25:381:25:41

Scraps, over the top of their head.

1:25:411:25:43

Yeah, but would you pay extra for them?

1:25:431:25:46

-In Italia we call them rospi.

-In Italy, they invented scraps now, here we go!

1:25:461:25:49

And the secret of it is, with the batter,

1:25:491:25:51

cos you've got the vodka in it, cos it's high in alcohol,

1:25:511:25:54

it hits the fryer and explodes

1:25:541:25:55

and you've got this really crispy batter.

1:25:551:25:59

-You can of course use tempura.

-The tonic with it?

-Here's the garnish.

1:25:591:26:02

Is that it?

1:26:021:26:04

-Is that it, just that salad on there?

-No, no, there is salad here.

1:26:041:26:08

Did you turn...? I'm not going to say a word.

1:26:081:26:10

ALL TALK AT ONCE

1:26:101:26:13

Seasoning, salt and pepper.

1:26:131:26:15

Have you mistook me for a fussy child?

1:26:151:26:17

Yes, we have, yeah.

1:26:171:26:20

-Bit of salt and pepper, please.

-Give me sugar here.

1:26:201:26:25

It's food heaven, I don't want to be overfaced by the salad.

1:26:251:26:29

LAUGHTER

1:26:291:26:30

-You know when you fill up on salad and can't finish your main.

-Exactly.

1:26:301:26:35

Right, then we've got...

1:26:351:26:36

Waaaaay!

1:26:361:26:38

-Look at that.

-Aw, man, that looks de... Oh! Wow!

1:26:401:26:45

-Yes.

-Then you've got your scraps, which we'll put on there as well.

1:26:451:26:48

We should make them beg for them.

1:26:481:26:50

If I get these over. Good pinch of salt.

1:26:501:26:54

How are we doing? Back over here.

1:26:541:26:57

Salt is there.

1:26:571:26:58

There we go... Nice plate.

1:27:001:27:03

Then you've got your deep-fried...

1:27:031:27:06

Just to proof the point.

1:27:061:27:08

Try that batter.

1:27:081:27:10

I'm ready here.

1:27:121:27:13

I'm going to refry the chips cos Gennaro's left them a little bit...

1:27:131:27:17

-Chips, not paper.

-Yeah.

1:27:171:27:19

You know the philosophy of the scrap?

1:27:201:27:23

In Germany they say that very thick skin can replace very weak spine.

1:27:231:27:30

Little bit of aioli in there.

1:27:301:27:33

So there you have your thick aioli.

1:27:331:27:36

Then we've got the chips, we'll get a little plate here.

1:27:361:27:40

-Fish and chips.

-Fish and chips, you see. Bit of salt.

1:27:401:27:43

I've already done it.

1:27:431:27:45

But I'll put an extra bit.

1:27:451:27:47

Come on, nothing says, "God bless us, one and all,"

1:27:491:27:51

-more than soft-shell crab.

-And frozen chips.

1:27:511:27:54

So there you have it. You have your deep-fried soft shell crab.

1:27:541:27:57

Dive in there.

1:27:571:27:58

The whole point about it is, you basically rip the claws off,

1:27:581:28:01

-dunk them into the sauce and dive in.

-All right.

1:28:011:28:04

-Remember the sauce.

-I'm not getting the sauce.

1:28:041:28:06

-One second.

-Fantastic wine. Serious stuff.

-Mmm! That batter's beautiful.

1:28:101:28:14

-Happy with that?

-Yeah. We should be.

-The book's called?

1:28:141:28:18

The book is called, Becoming Johnny Vegas, My Guide To Soft Shell Crab.

1:28:181:28:22

A Christmas miracle for Johnny there,

1:28:271:28:29

and a real treat to see Antonio Carluccio,

1:28:291:28:31

who is deeply missed by us all here at Saturday Kitchen.

1:28:311:28:34

That's all from us this week, and I hope you've enjoyed

1:28:341:28:37

taking a look back at some of the best Christmassy moments

1:28:371:28:40

from the Saturday Kitchen archives, and if you want to give any

1:28:401:28:42

of today's studio recipes a go, in time for Christmas Day,

1:28:421:28:45

you can find them all at the BBC website.

1:28:451:28:47

Thanks for watching and have a very merry Christmas.

1:28:471:28:50

I'll see you next time.

1:28:501:28:51

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