15/11/2015 Saturday Kitchen Best Bites


15/11/2015

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Good morning. If you need some flavoursome food

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to warm you up this weekend,

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then stay exactly where you are. The next 90 minutes is just for you.

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This is Saturday Kitchen Best Bites.

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Welcome to the show. We've got some of the finest food lined up for you this morning,

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as well as the very best chefs.

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And I'm going to chuck in a handful of hungry celebrities too.

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Coming up on today's show, Angela Hartnett cooks Casterbridge cote de boeuf,

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and serves it with a gnocchi, wild mushroom and bone marrow gratin.

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So it looks fantastic.

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And Vivek Singh serves up a tasty tandoori breast of pigeon.

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He marinades the pigeon before cooking it in a tandoori oven,

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and serves it with black lentils, kachumber salad and naan bread.

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This is one of the oldest forms of cooking.

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And Lawrence Keogh shares a unique recipe for the perfect

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parsnips to complement his succulent pheasant.

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He roasts the pheasant and serves it with sherry-glazed parsnips

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-and chestnuts.

-But really seasonal flavours.

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And Lesley Garrett faces her Food Heaven or Food Hell.

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Would she get her Food Heaven,

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pan-fried mackerel with gooseberry sauce, new potatoes and salad leaves?

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Or would she get her dreaded Food Hell, a chocolate

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and fig tart with raspberry sauce and white chocolate ice cream?

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And you can find out what she gets to eat at the end of the show.

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But first, Bryn Williams serves up his take on a warming Welsh classic,

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cawl. His version uses lamb neck fillet, with rosemary dumplings too.

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Take it away, Bryn.

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Welcome to the show. Now,

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you're going to cook a great dish for us today.

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-Tell us what you're doing.

-Lamb stew with rosemary dumplings.

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Very similar to a cawl but without potatoes, we are

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going to do something very different. The lamb is already dead.

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The cawl is kind of like a soup, is that right?

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It's a soup that gets cooked for hours on end.

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It's on an Aga. It is one of those things that's always there

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in a Welsh house.

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-OK. Anyway, we're doing this first of all.

-So, the greens.

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We've got a nice bit of Welsh lamb. Not Yorkshire, Welsh lamb.

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Using the neck fillets. Loads of fat, loads of flavour.

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-Yeah.

-We are going to use carrots, swedes, baby onions, butter,

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-rosemary, parsley.

-And you've got lamb stock here.

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We are going to cook everything in the lamb stock.

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First of all, we are going to make the dumplings.

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If you want to chop a lot of rosemary.

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-Yes, I'll get the rosemary done.

-So we are just going to add the suet.

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So what is it about dumplings...?

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It's actually really easy to make.

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It is so simple, so, so simple.

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I love it because of the texture reasons.

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I love the texture of dumplings.

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It absorbs all the juices of the lamb we are going to cook today.

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But you're cooking these slightly differently to the conventional

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-way, which would be cooked in the stew.

-In the stew itself. It just does it a little bit cleaner.

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When you cook it in the actual stew itself,

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you get all the baking powder, flour will come out into the actual sauce.

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So I'm just going to cook them separate.

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-Then serve them in the same dish.

-So you've got suet in there as well.

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-Which is from around the kidneys.

-Around the kidneys. All good fat.

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Flour, baking powder, a bit of salt.

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Just enough cold water to bind it all together.

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You don't want it too wet.

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I think that is the thing. If you get it too wet,

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it literally goes like a crust over the top.

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Because we're going to cook it in liquid anyway.

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So if it is a bit dry,

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it will absorb a little bit more of the stock anyway.

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Now, I mentioned Odette's, cos you're doing some building work as well.

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-You're renovating downstairs as well.

-Doing some bits and bobs at Odette's.

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Got the builders in as we speak.

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Just going to make it a little bit more comfortable.

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Put a carpet downstairs, put a bar menu downstairs.

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Just make it a bit more, you know, outside the box,

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so anybody can come in now.

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People used to think we were a fine dining restaurant in a local area.

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We serve good food. Well, I would like to think we do.

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So now we've individually priced the menu.

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You can come in and have a starter, glass of wine and walk out.

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As long as you've paid, it's fine, you know.

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We're just going to roll these dumplings now into little balls.

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So we've just made it a bit more accessible for everybody,

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rather than just fine dining kind of food.

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These ones we're doing, the reason why we are doing these is, you leave them to rest in the fridge?

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Yeah, leave them to rest for five, six minutes or so.

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If you want to roll them. And once you have done a dozen or so,

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just stick them in the fridge, just to firm up.

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Because these will expand...

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-About double the size, I reckon.

-OK.

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OK, tell us about this lamb, because you mentioned the neck.

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We are using the neck. Loads of fat, loads of flavour, like we said before.

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People often use the scrag end as well.

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You can use it, but for me, it's a bit too thin.

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I'd like to have nice big chunks of meat, if I'm having a stew.

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Rather than little bits...

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-You wouldn't use something like a leg of lamb for this.

-I wouldn't, no.

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I think neck or shoulder is fine.

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-Anything else, I wouldn't really do anything.

-Pop my...

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YOUR dumplings straight in there.

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We are just going to add a little bit of bay leaf

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and a bit of rosemary, just to carry on the flavours through the dish.

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-So you wouldn't put dumplings in a cawl?

-No, you wouldn't, no.

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A cawl would have a lot of potatoes in it, to thicken it.

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-Right.

-So a cawl, you wouldn't actually season...

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Well, my nain never seasoned with flour,

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she just seasoned it with salt and pepper, and that was it.

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So, nice, hot pan. It is a one-pan wonder as well.

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Everything goes into one pan.

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Season with flour. Nice little colour...

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on the lamb. And the flour helps to thicken the sauce as well,

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because there's no potatoes in there. There's no starch there to thicken it.

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But the most important thing, really, where there's the flour to help

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thicken it, is this colouration you get on the lamb.

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We've got to have colour here. Colour is flavour.

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Fat is flavour, and colour is flavour also. It is very important.

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You know, we're chefs, we are trying to create flavour into dishes.

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There you go. So we've got the carrots here.

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-Now, the other veg you're putting in?

-Carrots, baby onions and some...

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swede. You might call it something else.

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Turnip. Turnip, Swede, depends where you are. North of Watford.

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-Is it?

-Well, I don't know. We used to call it swede, turnip.

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-What do you call that?

-Swede.

-Swede. It is the Yorkshire thing.

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-It is the Yorkshire thing, yes.

-Jason?

-Turnip.

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You see? That's 2-0.

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2-2, sorry.

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Right, so what we're going to do is just peel this and then chop it up.

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Dice it up, yes. And I'll dice the carrot...

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virtually the same size as what you are doing there as well.

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While the lamb is getting loads of colour on it.

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So you're sealing that. The thing about this is you don't want to add... You know,

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if you're doing a bigger amount of this, you do it individually.

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Individually. The more you put into it,

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it'll just take the heat away from the pan, so I'll just put

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a bit in at a time, take it out if you're doing a bit more.

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-But putting too much into a pan just kills the heat, really.

-Right.

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So once they are coloured... Just got another...

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30 seconds or so, we are going to start roasting all the vegetables.

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-Once we've got everything ready.

-I'm going as quick as I can.

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I got that look, then. You're just basically poaching these off.

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-Yeah.

-With a little bit of bay leaf? No.

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A bit of bay leaf, a bit of rosemary. That'll be fine.

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So the lamb's got a nice bit of colour on it.

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OK, our producer has just said in my ear,

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"How do we know when these are done?"

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Obviously he is really keen on making sure

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-he gets his dumplings right tomorrow.

-Right, OK.

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-I can say, "They're done when they're done."

-They will double in size.

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And that's when you know they are ready.

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They can sit there for 15, 20 minutes or so.

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They'll just take on all that liquid, they won't dry out.

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They might crack a little bit, but... It is a rustic dish.

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-In we go with our onions. To colour those?

-Just to slightly colour.

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We can add all the vegetables in together.

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But we are going to colour everything before we add

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the white wine.

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In with all the vegetables.

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This, for me, this is a dish you would cook on an Aga.

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I love cooking on an Aga.

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I just think, get it made, leave it there on a slow oven.

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There is a trend with this slow food. I know you're cooking it very,

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-very slowly at a lower temperature.

-That's right, yeah.

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There is a big trend now with the slow-cooking, isn't there?

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This is not trendy. I had this as a kid, for the last 20 years.

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It's just a new thing of coming round, using cheaper cuts.

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And I just think using the cheaper cuts, you've got to work

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a bit more at it to get more flavour into it, that's the only reason.

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-The skill of a chef...

-Pardon?

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When you can cook, a good chef can do anything with cheap ingredients.

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-Yes, shows more skill.

-It is more interesting as a chef.

-Yeah.

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Too right. And I just think, by using all our skills

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and what we have been taught, you know,

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in the kitchens we have worked in...

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-Even my mum can cook fillet steak.

-Yes, that's true.

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-There you go. Right, chopped parsley.

-Chopped parsley.

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-That goes in at the end.

-You've sealed that off. The veg has gone on.

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-The veg, straight into the same pan. Don't wipe the pan out.

-Yes.

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Colour the vegetables. A little bit of butter to help it along.

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-And parsley you're going to use later.

-Right at the end.

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We are just going to de-glass this with a little bit of white wine.

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-In it goes.

-Now, lamb stock.

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-If people can't find lamb stock, a bit of chicken stock?

-You can use chicken, but

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I would say try and use lamb,

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keep the flavours going with all the lamb.

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So back in now with the lamb on top.

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Then in the oven, once the lamb stock is on top of it,

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for a good, I don't know...

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Say...an hour.

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Now, what temperature are you going to cook this?

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You mentioned about this long, slow cooking.

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It needs to be about at least an hour, one hour and 20 minutes.

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So it tenderises everything.

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So, bring it to the boil.

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-Then on top, into the oven.

-I'll bring this one out.

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-Always with the lid on?

-I would, yes. Always leave the lid on.

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I'll leave you to lift the lid off. There you go.

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Let's just turn this one off. The dumplings are ready.

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So we'll just leave them in the liquid. And this should be...

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Yeah, look at that. Oi.

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-OK.

-Looks delicious.

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Just the smells of that, you know...

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-Do you want the parsley in?

-Parsley in, just to finish it all off.

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I'll mix it through.

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Again, just check some of the seasoning.

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Just a little bit of salt and we're there. OK.

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Just finish it off now.

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If you wanted to put the dumplings in it, about 15 minutes at the end?

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15 minutes towards the end.

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But I like to do it separately

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because it keeps it a lot, lot cleaner.

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Nice big chunks of meat.

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Nice bit of colour on there.

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The sauce might look a bit thin...

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but when you have it with dumplings,

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it just absorbs everything.

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There's nothing better at this time of year than this type of food.

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A nice winter warmer.

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And we'll put three dumplings on top.

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-So simple.

-It's so simple -

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one pot, on the Aga,

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you can't beat it.

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For me, at this time of year - fantastic. And that is it.

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So while the last one goes on, remind us what that is again?

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-That is my lamb stew with rosemary dumplings.

-Easy as that.

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And then you get to try it!

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It smells delicious!

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This will be extremely hot.

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-There you go.

-OK, thank you very much.

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Now how does that compare to mother's?

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It looks absolutely beautiful.

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-And it smells fantastic.

-It is the essence... It's real food.

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-Oh, thank you very much.

-Real food, like you say.

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I'll try a little bit of the lamb first.

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But the secret of it, the whole point of this, is the cut of lamb.

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It needs to be something with a bit of fat in it,

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so it doesn't dry out in the cooking process.

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Neck of lamb is the best cut to use for this.

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-It's beautiful. Thank you very much.

-You like that?

-Beautiful.

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You need to get a bigger mouthful on this show... Dive in.

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I know Jason wants some.

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This type of stuff... Do you ever attempt stuff like this, Chiara?

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-Erm...

-I mean, you had your day at the Michelin star restaurant.

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It's going back to simplicity, but...

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Yeah, to be honest I don't really do many stews and casseroles.

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-Yeah.

-Just lobsters!

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But it is one of these great things you can make in the morning,

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pop it in the oven and leave it.

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My nan would put it on in the morning, go and do the work,

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three or four hours later, it was ready.

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Cooking the dumplings at the last minute - I think they taste great.

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Really great, yeah.

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That wouldn't go amiss in a top restaurant - it tastes so good.

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-Yeah, that's on the menu at Odette's.

-On at his restaurant, there you go!

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Those dumplings were delicious, Brin!

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Coming up, I cook piperade with eggs and Iberico ham for Anton du Beke,

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after Rick Stein gives us his flavour of the Basque country.

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Today's he's cooking with freshly caught spider crab.

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ORCHESTRAL MUSIC

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Isn't this music great?

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It's by Malcolm Arnold, and he lived in Padstow for a while

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and I knew him really well.

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It just seems to sum up that great sort of exuberance

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about high season in Padstow in the summer.

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SHE CALLS OUT ORDERS OVER NOISY KITCHEN

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..and they're seated!

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Hang on, this bread fish has got scales all over it, Colin!

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What're you doing?

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Two mack for table 15!

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You lose your speed, you lose your sort of killer instinct

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over the winter months.

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Everybody's sort of relaxed and "Isn't cooking fun?"

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-And now it's not fun, is it, Paul?

-Not fun at all, boss.

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Easter comes down on you like a wolf on the fold.

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You know, "The Assyrians came down like a wolf on the fold!"

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That sort of thing. And it's like loads of Assyrians out there

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all wanting their food, and we're going, "Aarrrrhh...!"

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Three soup for 15.

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Yeah, I know Rosemary whatsit said if you don't like fish,

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you just don't come here.

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If you don't like fish, it'd be a nightmare.

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Fish, fish, fish, fish.

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Mm, oysters(!)

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We ought to get his book.

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What was his name again?

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'There are warnings of gales in Viking, North Utsire, South Utsire

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'Forties, Cromarty, Forth, Tyne, Dogger, Fisher, German Bight...'

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# Men of the sea

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# Bring back to me

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# Treasures from the sea... #

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Every summer as the water warms up,

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the spider crabs migrate from deeper parts of the sea

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across the ocean floor right into rocky beaches.

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Imagine if you took the sea away,

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you would see thousands and thousands of spider crabs

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just walking sideways.

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Come on, Chalky.

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'In June and July in certain beaches,

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'but not all of them,

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'you can find spider crabs quite easily.

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'Now I suppose I could get all these spider crabs from the fishermen,

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'but I just really enjoy doing something like this.

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'It's one of the advantages of living by the sea -

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'it beats a round of golf hands-down every time for me.'

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There's something fighting there.

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Argh!

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Got one! That is brilliant.

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We're going to get loads of them now, that's for sure.

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What do you think of that, Chalks?

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That's about a pound-and-a-half spider.

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Look after that, I'm just going to get the bucket.

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Actually, I can see there's another one there.

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Once you've found one, it's almost like you've found 101.

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I mean, it's a bit like falling off a log, this time of year.

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I've been down by the lifeboat station...

0:16:130:16:16

You just get a little mask and look down one of the piers

0:16:160:16:19

and there's about 50 spider crabs just...

0:16:190:16:22

Just there, you know?

0:16:220:16:23

And you just have to go and pick 'em up, so...

0:16:230:16:26

It's not as if I'm...

0:16:260:16:28

I mean, I've been doing it since I was about...

0:16:280:16:31

about nine, but it's not like

0:16:310:16:34

it's particularly difficult.

0:16:340:16:36

You just have to know what beaches to come on.

0:16:360:16:39

Ah, ah, ah...!

0:16:390:16:42

There's some in there!

0:16:420:16:44

Look out for your fingers, boys!

0:16:490:16:51

Look at that! Eh?

0:16:510:16:54

Look at that beauty!

0:16:540:16:55

Now that is the sort of thing

0:16:570:16:58

the Spanish would spend a really lot of money to...

0:16:580:17:02

I mean, there's a lorry that comes over from Spain.

0:17:030:17:05

Watch it!

0:17:050:17:07

Just to buy spider crabs.

0:17:070:17:09

They're more interested in the spider crabs than the

0:17:090:17:11

lobsters and our own browns,

0:17:110:17:12

and in fact, you know, in the old days,

0:17:120:17:14

the fishermen used to just whack these things on a gunwale.

0:17:140:17:17

Just pick them up and go bang!

0:17:170:17:18

On the gunwale of the boats, and throw them overboard, but...

0:17:180:17:21

not any more.

0:17:210:17:23

And actually,

0:17:230:17:24

I think they're better flavoured than ordinary brown crabs,

0:17:240:17:27

and I've got this dish.

0:17:270:17:29

It's a bit tricky, cos it's quite hard getting the meat

0:17:290:17:32

out of a spider crab, but once you've done it, it really...

0:17:320:17:37

It really does pay off, and later on,

0:17:370:17:39

I'm just going to show you how

0:17:390:17:41

I really like to do these spider crabs.

0:17:410:17:42

Where's me bucket?

0:17:420:17:44

Don't want to lose that...

0:17:440:17:45

I've got some water in the bucket, just to keep it a little bit moist.

0:17:450:17:49

So, I've cooked these crabs

0:17:530:17:54

for about 20 minutes, and I just thought I ought to

0:17:540:17:57

show you how to open a spider crab.

0:17:570:17:59

First of all, you pull off the back shell like that,

0:17:590:18:02

and inside, you've got what people call the feathers.

0:18:020:18:04

These funny things here,

0:18:040:18:06

which everybody thinks is poisonous, but actually,

0:18:060:18:08

they're not poisonous.

0:18:080:18:10

It's just like, well, trying to eat a feather.

0:18:100:18:12

You know, you wouldn't want to do it,

0:18:120:18:14

so don't worry about anything in a crab being poisonous,

0:18:140:18:17

they're just very difficult to eat.

0:18:170:18:18

Then you pull off the claws,

0:18:180:18:20

and then you pull off the legs.

0:18:200:18:23

Like that.

0:18:230:18:25

Spider crab meat is delicious.

0:18:250:18:27

It's nicer than brown crab.

0:18:270:18:30

It's sort of fragrant and has a wonderful,

0:18:300:18:32

sort of, almost perfumed flavour,

0:18:320:18:35

but this bit is not easy.

0:18:350:18:37

But you know what? I think it's like, you know,

0:18:370:18:40

shelling peas or broad beans or slicing runner beans.

0:18:400:18:44

You just sit out in the garden and put on some nice music,

0:18:440:18:48

take life a bit easy.

0:18:480:18:50

It's OK, you can just get on with it and do it.

0:18:500:18:53

You know?

0:18:530:18:54

You get out of cooking what you put into it, but what I'm going

0:18:540:18:57

to get out of it is a flavour which is incomparable.

0:18:570:19:01

I mean, really,

0:19:010:19:02

you couldn't buy packet crab that would ever taste anything like this.

0:19:020:19:08

This spider crab dish I'm going to do now

0:19:080:19:11

is from San Sebastian, from the Basque part of Spain.

0:19:110:19:14

It's called changurro, or txangurro,

0:19:140:19:16

and what is so good about a lot of Spanish seafood cookery is

0:19:160:19:20

that everything is very simple,

0:19:200:19:22

and it allows the sort of clear, clean flavours of the fish

0:19:220:19:24

or seafood to shine through.

0:19:240:19:27

So all I'm going to do here is just add lots of garlic to this pan,

0:19:270:19:30

and lots of onion,

0:19:300:19:32

and just shake that around a bit.

0:19:320:19:34

Just getting it nice and soft.

0:19:370:19:39

I love the smell of hot garlic,

0:19:390:19:41

and in the early morning it smells like, sort of, victory.

0:19:410:19:45

Good one, eh?

0:19:450:19:47

So, just let that sort of simmer off a little bit,

0:19:470:19:50

and then add some tomato.

0:19:500:19:52

Now look at those tomatoes.

0:19:520:19:53

Lovely, bright red, plum tomatoes,

0:19:530:19:57

and a little bit of white wine,

0:19:570:19:59

and then just one or two other seasoning ingredients.

0:19:590:20:02

Some salt, a little bit of salt, and some sugar.

0:20:020:20:06

Now, the sugar just brings out the sweetness of the crab,

0:20:060:20:09

cos crab is actually quite a sweet-flavoured thing,

0:20:090:20:12

and a little bit of sugar helps it to taste even sweeter.

0:20:120:20:16

And finally, powdered chillies, and a little bit of pepper.

0:20:160:20:21

OK? Now, that's all the flavouring ingredients.

0:20:210:20:24

Into there, I just add the crab - now, look at that crab.

0:20:240:20:27

I've put lots of red roe that I found underneath the tails of one

0:20:270:20:30

of those spider crabs I just picked up. Look at all that brown meat.

0:20:300:20:34

That doesn't look like frozen crab meat to me,

0:20:340:20:36

it looks like chunky, fresh stuff.

0:20:360:20:38

So, plenty of crab meat, and then just a little bit of parsley. OK?

0:20:380:20:42

Do you know, that's all there is to it?

0:20:420:20:44

Apart from the breadcrumb topping.

0:20:440:20:46

Just turn that over a little bit.

0:20:460:20:49

Right, just bring them over here, and fill up these shells.

0:20:490:20:51

Now, you need really generous portions to fill up these shells,

0:20:510:20:54

because it is a main course, and everybody likes crab.

0:20:540:20:58

So let's get all that crab in there.

0:20:580:21:00

Now I'm going to put on some fine breadcrumbs,

0:21:000:21:03

just mixed with parsley and garlic,

0:21:030:21:05

and on top of the breadcrumbs, just to stop them browning,

0:21:050:21:08

and to give that extra little bit of richness,

0:21:080:21:11

is some melted butter.

0:21:110:21:12

So, that's in the oven for about ten minutes, just to brown up.

0:21:120:21:16

Look at that. It's smelling so wonderful.

0:21:160:21:18

It's bubbling, it's brown, it's just the, sort of, job, here.

0:21:180:21:22

So I think I'm just going to try it,

0:21:220:21:23

but I'd just like to say something very important to me

0:21:230:21:27

is that use the natural container in seafood,

0:21:270:21:29

if you've got half the chance, because who can tell,

0:21:290:21:32

really, where the taste sense ends

0:21:320:21:35

and the visual sense takes over?

0:21:350:21:38

Now, it's sort of inextricably linked -

0:21:380:21:41

that's a long word for me.

0:21:410:21:43

But the other thing is, you get this smell.

0:21:430:21:45

You get this smell of hot shells.

0:21:450:21:46

It's the same with scallops, it's the same with mussels,

0:21:460:21:49

when you grill mussels, and particularly with crabs.

0:21:490:21:52

You just get this lovely smell.

0:21:520:21:54

You can throw the shell away if you like.

0:21:540:21:56

You can do the thing in a gratin dish,

0:21:560:21:58

but if you've got the shell, I suggest, just use it.

0:21:580:22:00

'I always like to test dishes out on my wife Jill,

0:22:020:22:05

'because she's totally truthful, sometimes horribly so.'

0:22:050:22:10

This is brilliant.

0:22:100:22:11

It's probably one of the best crab dishes I've ever tasted.

0:22:110:22:14

-It is, actually.

-It truly is.

-Totally wonderful.

0:22:140:22:17

-I mean, I just can't stop eating it.

-What about...?

0:22:170:22:20

Sorry, chaps, you aren't going to get a sniff of this one.

0:22:200:22:23

It is really good.

0:22:240:22:26

Delicious, and it's typical of all

0:22:300:22:32

the great dishes from the Basque region,

0:22:320:22:34

and it really is a fabulous part of the world,

0:22:340:22:36

and so many other British...

0:22:360:22:37

So many other brilliant dishes come from that area.

0:22:370:22:40

Another one you'll come across on the menus is called piperade.

0:22:400:22:42

It's incredibly simple to make

0:22:420:22:44

and it's kind of translating to a Spanish-style omelette,

0:22:440:22:46

It's the only time you're going to see ME make an omelette on the show.

0:22:460:22:49

These lot have to do it in 30 seconds. I've got five minutes,

0:22:490:22:52

but sometimes it's actually mashed up, a bit like scrambled eggs.

0:22:520:22:55

Piperade, really simple, run through the ingredients.

0:22:550:22:57

We've got onion, green pepper, of course.

0:22:570:22:59

We've got tomatoes, a bit of garlic, some butter, eggs, of course.

0:22:590:23:02

We've got the smoked... Spanish smoked peppers here,

0:23:020:23:05

and the Iberico ham.

0:23:050:23:06

That's the real fantastic pata negra,

0:23:060:23:08

from the black-footed pig, that,

0:23:080:23:10

and a little bit of bread as well. Now, bread.

0:23:100:23:12

You were telling me, watching that,

0:23:120:23:14

you were a baker when you were young.

0:23:140:23:15

Yeah, I started, actually, just when I left school,

0:23:150:23:18

I was a baker for about four and a half, five years.

0:23:180:23:20

-A skilled baker.

-A skilled baker, but I mean...

-Just about, yeah.

0:23:200:23:23

-But you started dancing when you were what? 14?

-14. Yeah, 14.

-Yeah.

0:23:230:23:27

-And I just went from there, really.

-But did you get any stick for it?

0:23:270:23:30

When I was cooking, it wasn't really the done thing to do, really,

0:23:300:23:33

but everybody else was playing sports and bits and pieces.

0:23:330:23:36

Well, that was... I also was sports-mad as a kid,

0:23:360:23:38

and still now, really,

0:23:380:23:40

and I was very good at sport at school.

0:23:400:23:43

I played for the school football team,

0:23:430:23:44

I might have been the school captain.

0:23:440:23:46

I played for the school cricket team.

0:23:460:23:48

I didn't play for the school rugby team, oddly.

0:23:480:23:50

-I did.

-And so...

0:23:500:23:53

So I didn't get a lot of stick, really.

0:23:530:23:55

-I don't remember.

-Yeah.

0:23:550:23:57

Because I was very good at sport,

0:23:570:23:58

so, you know, sort of one balanced out the other,

0:23:580:24:01

-but dance is where my sort of passion was.

-But that...

0:24:010:24:04

It wasn't as popular. Can't have been as popular then as it is now.

0:24:040:24:07

No, it wasn't. No. Not really.

0:24:070:24:08

-It's just incredible now.

-It wasn't that popular,

0:24:080:24:10

and it wasn't the done thing for boys.

0:24:100:24:12

When I turned up at the dance school,

0:24:120:24:14

it was really a room full of girls and...

0:24:140:24:16

That's the real reason why you went.

0:24:160:24:17

And of course, I was sort of hooked from that moment on. So...

0:24:170:24:21

And then you met your partner... Your dance partner Erin.

0:24:210:24:23

Erin, about 11 and a half, 12 years ago,

0:24:230:24:25

so coming up 12 years ago.

0:24:250:24:27

And then went on to do it sort of professionally.

0:24:270:24:29

I mean, you've won so many awards.

0:24:290:24:31

I mean, yeah, I'd been dancing, competing for years before,

0:24:310:24:34

-as Erin was before me, and then we got together.

-Yeah.

0:24:340:24:37

And we just sort of carried on competing,

0:24:370:24:39

and travelling around the world and competing,

0:24:390:24:41

and representing Great Britain, and continuing it on.

0:24:410:24:45

But did you used to watch Strictly, then, or were you, you know...?

0:24:450:24:48

Erm, what, the old Come Dancing?

0:24:480:24:50

-The old Strictly. The old one.

-The old Come Dancing, yeah.

0:24:500:24:53

Before it was Strictly Come Dancing, it was called Come Dancing.

0:24:530:24:56

Yes, I did it once,

0:24:560:24:57

-with a previous partner, funnily enough.

-Yeah.

0:24:570:25:00

And, yeah, we used to watch it, and then it came off.

0:25:000:25:02

And it was sort of...

0:25:020:25:04

When it came off, it was sort of good for dancing, because it wasn't

0:25:040:25:07

doing us a lot of favours, really, the old Come Dancing.

0:25:070:25:09

It just wasn't seen as a great thing,

0:25:090:25:12

and the whole dancing business got a lot of stick at that time.

0:25:120:25:16

-It was easily knocked, you know what I mean?

-Yeah, yeah.

0:25:160:25:19

And dancing had moved on from that, and it wasn't...

0:25:190:25:23

You had these wonderfully athletic, fabulous people,

0:25:230:25:25

doing this thing that didn't really

0:25:250:25:28

-translate across the television screen.

-Yeah.

0:25:280:25:30

You had to go and see it live.

0:25:300:25:31

Now, of course, it's totally different now.

0:25:310:25:33

Now, of course, it's different, when somebody's dancing...

0:25:330:25:36

For example, when Camilla danced with you, it was different.

0:25:360:25:39

People could relate to it.

0:25:390:25:40

Yeah, so a fat bloke dancing on the dance floor. Thanks very much.

0:25:400:25:43

A handsome fellow dancing on the floor, you know, a tall guy.

0:25:430:25:46

A tall guy? It was the fat guy, trust me.

0:25:460:25:49

-Only at the beginning, how's that?

-Only at the beginning.

0:25:490:25:51

Yeah, thanks for that(!)

0:25:510:25:52

But I mean, literally, it's gone on to be a huge success.

0:25:520:25:55

-Massive, yeah.

-But of course, off the back of that,

0:25:550:25:57

you've started, you're going

0:25:570:25:58

to start in January, a tour as well, aren't you?

0:25:580:26:00

Well, Erin and I are doing a tour called Cheek To Cheek.

0:26:000:26:03

It's just Erin and I doing our thing, really.

0:26:030:26:05

It's going to be a fabulous...

0:26:050:26:07

I like to consider it to be a lush evening of wonderful orchestra.

0:26:070:26:10

We've got this huge orchestra. Wonderful singers.

0:26:100:26:13

It's going to be Erin and I dancing, and it's going to be a good night.

0:26:130:26:16

We're looking forward to it enormously.

0:26:160:26:18

-This is in January.

-This is a tour all over the UK?

0:26:180:26:20

Up and down, all over the UK.

0:26:200:26:22

-It starts at the Barbican, then goes round the country.

-Right.

0:26:220:26:24

We're looking forward to that. The whole of January,

0:26:240:26:27

that's going to be fun.

0:26:270:26:28

It'll be us doing what we do, which we love.

0:26:280:26:30

I'm going to run through what I've got in here.

0:26:300:26:32

I have got the onion sauteing off with the green peppers,

0:26:320:26:34

the tomatoes have gone in there.

0:26:340:26:36

A touch of garlic. In we go with the egg now.

0:26:360:26:38

Yes, I'm very excited about this,

0:26:380:26:39

-because my mum's Spanish, of course.

-Oh, is she?

0:26:390:26:41

-So she...

-I'd better put seasoning in, then.

0:26:410:26:43

You'd better do your best here

0:26:430:26:44

because I might have had a bit of this in my time.

0:26:440:26:46

Might have had a bit of this. So, there you go.

0:26:460:26:48

Do they normally scramble it or is it more of an omelette sort of thing?

0:26:480:26:52

They... No, it doesn't really scramble, actually.

0:26:520:26:55

It's more a set, sort of...

0:26:550:26:56

Yeah, it's more set, the traditional Spanish omelette,

0:26:560:26:58

-of course, is more set.

-Yeah, that's that one.

0:26:580:27:00

So that's what I'm going to do. Keep it nice and low.

0:27:000:27:02

We've got some bread. We'll pop some bread onto the griddle,

0:27:020:27:05

with some of this fantastic ham.

0:27:050:27:07

Of course, you know, your mum's from Spain.

0:27:070:27:09

This is some of the best ham you can possibly get.

0:27:090:27:11

Well, I think it is the best ham you can possibly get.

0:27:110:27:13

Pata negra, Iberico ham.

0:27:130:27:14

Beats that Italian stuff.

0:27:140:27:16

Well, I think so.

0:27:160:27:17

because one thing that Spain and Portugal are famous for,

0:27:170:27:20

of course, is pork. Love of pork.

0:27:200:27:22

But we've got on here this lovely ham, which is bred on acorns.

0:27:220:27:25

Try some of this, this Christmas, as well,

0:27:250:27:28

but it's actually quite expensive.

0:27:280:27:29

Use a little bit of that, crisp that up

0:27:290:27:31

and we've got some bread over here.

0:27:310:27:33

So, apart from that, I mentioned the fact...

0:27:330:27:35

-The Hole In The Wall, as well.

-Hole In The Wall, yeah.

0:27:350:27:37

-I mean, it is hysterical.

-They said to me at the time,

0:27:370:27:39

"Would you come do a dance?" I said, "Yeah, we'd love to."

0:27:390:27:42

They said, "Would you mind terribly

0:27:420:27:44

"if you were to wear this tight, silver Lycra catsuit?"

0:27:440:27:47

And I said, "Do you know what I do for a living?

0:27:470:27:49

"Is any chance we could maybe sequin a sleeve or something?"

0:27:490:27:52

-Sequin a sleeve.

-But they weren't up for that.

0:27:520:27:54

I was a bit disappointed, If I'm honest.

0:27:540:27:56

So, yeah, it's just been great fun.

0:27:560:27:58

It's just a great, fun thing to do.

0:27:580:28:00

I mean, I'm having a ball, really.

0:28:000:28:02

And then, and not just that.

0:28:020:28:03

Especially with Goughy.

0:28:030:28:05

Look at Goughy. He's twice the man

0:28:050:28:06

we once knew, isn't he? Look at him.

0:28:060:28:08

Lovely jubbly.

0:28:080:28:09

But apart from that, obviously,

0:28:090:28:11

you've got Step Up To The Plate, as well.

0:28:110:28:13

-Well, that's been a joy.

-Your own cooking show.

0:28:130:28:15

-I can't believe this.

-I tell you, that's been a complete joy to do.

0:28:150:28:19

You guys... I say you guys - chefs.

0:28:190:28:22

-You're so talented. I'm in awe.

-Oh.

0:28:220:28:25

And watching you guys do what you do is really, really wonderful.

0:28:250:28:28

I've had a great time doing it, and the concept is wonderful.

0:28:280:28:31

Taking three, sort of, amateur cooks,

0:28:310:28:33

-and pitting them against you two pros.

-Yeah.

0:28:330:28:35

And you cooking dishes that you've never seen,

0:28:350:28:38

and they come along with a menu, and then, of course,

0:28:380:28:40

wonderful Loyd comes out and judges it.

0:28:400:28:42

You get awfully grumpy when you get beaten,

0:28:420:28:44

-don't you? It's quite funny.

-Not me!

0:28:440:28:45

-Not you, personally.

-That's Mr Tanner. There we go.

0:28:450:28:48

Mr Tanner. So just running through, quickly, I've got my...

0:28:480:28:50

These smoked peppers are absolutely delicious as well.

0:28:500:28:53

I think people should be buying a few more of these,

0:28:530:28:55

-which, I think they're superb.

-They are lovely.

0:28:550:28:57

You know, they're wood-roasted.

0:28:570:28:59

and actually a lot cheaper than doing them yourselves, I think,

0:28:590:29:01

cos you get so much in a pot.

0:29:010:29:03

Then what we've got is our lovely pata negra here.

0:29:030:29:06

Now, like I said, the reason why this is special, it's bred on acorns,

0:29:060:29:10

and it walks miles and miles and miles a day,

0:29:100:29:13

so when you're actually buying it,

0:29:130:29:14

from Spain, as well, they actually serve it at room temperature

0:29:140:29:17

so they can slice it with a knife.

0:29:170:29:19

It can't be sliced on a machine.

0:29:190:29:20

And we've got our piperade, which is in here,

0:29:200:29:24

which is this Spanish-style omelette, which I've got on there.

0:29:240:29:27

Now, just to top this with the old red peppers.

0:29:270:29:30

-Oh, look at that.

-Over the top.

-You could be a local.

0:29:300:29:33

-You're doing a marvellous job.

-I could be a local?

0:29:330:29:35

My mum would be so pleased with you, I tell you.

0:29:350:29:37

There you go. Bit of that over there.

0:29:370:29:39

This is my type of Food Hell with the peppers.

0:29:390:29:41

-This is your idea of Food Hell, is it?

-Yeah, yeah. Oh!

0:29:410:29:43

-Well, luckily it's not for you.

-Exactly!

0:29:430:29:47

And then we've got on here, we've got our nice, crispy bacon,

0:29:470:29:51

which we just chop up as well,

0:29:510:29:53

and then just sprinkle that Over the top.

0:29:530:29:55

Oh, look at this exciting...

0:29:550:29:57

That's a perfect lunch, isn't it? Dive into that.

0:29:570:29:59

-Tell us what you think of that.

-Look at... What a belter.

0:29:590:30:01

Tell us what you think.

0:30:030:30:05

Seeing as you are such an expert on Spanish food, come on.

0:30:050:30:08

-This is...

-You can say what you want. I won't be offended.

-Oh...

0:30:090:30:12

My mum would be so pleased.

0:30:130:30:15

LAUGHTER

0:30:150:30:16

-Well, best of luck with the tour.

-Lovely.

0:30:160:30:18

I think it's safe to say that that was one happy customer.

0:30:230:30:26

You'll have to bring your mum next time, Anton.

0:30:260:30:28

If you'd like to try cooking any of the studio recipes you've seen

0:30:280:30:31

on today's show, all of those are just a click away

0:30:310:30:33

at bbc.co.uk/recipes

0:30:330:30:35

Today we're looking back at some of the tastiest treats

0:30:350:30:38

from the Saturday Kitchen store cupboard.

0:30:380:30:40

Now, she's the proud owner of a Michelin star,

0:30:400:30:43

an MBE, as well as countless other awards.

0:30:430:30:46

Yes, Angela Hartnett is certainly a woman at the top of her game.

0:30:460:30:49

Here she is with a spectacular sharing dish,

0:30:490:30:52

cote de boeuf with a gnocchi and wild mushroom bone marrow gratin.

0:30:520:30:56

You're going to enjoy this!

0:30:560:30:58

-It can only be the great Angela Hartnett.

-So kind, so kind!

0:30:580:31:01

-Great to have you on the show. Bigging you up.

-I know.

0:31:010:31:03

It's all going to go horribly wrong now!

0:31:030:31:05

-It did in rehearsal, didn't it?

-It did.

0:31:050:31:08

We're going to do a fantastic cote de boeuf,

0:31:080:31:11

beautiful piece of meat, with the lovely fat and layers through it.

0:31:110:31:14

We are going to serve it with some cavolo nero.

0:31:140:31:16

We're going to make our own gnocchi

0:31:160:31:18

out of some cooked potato - baked potato - eggs and flour.

0:31:180:31:20

-I like how you say "we".

-"We" indeed! I always like to include you.

0:31:200:31:23

A little bit of chervil and some wild mushrooms.

0:31:230:31:26

And then we finish on top of the gnocchi...

0:31:260:31:28

We grate down some brioche and we add some cooked bone marrow.

0:31:280:31:31

-These lovely rich crumbs to go on top.

-Fantastic.

0:31:310:31:34

We'll get onto that in a minute, that bone marrow.

0:31:340:31:36

-But on with the cote de boeuf first. Fantastic cut of meat.

-Beautiful.

0:31:360:31:39

It's basically your leg part of your meat

0:31:390:31:42

with the thigh there. It is great, cos I think it's great for two.

0:31:420:31:46

I know we say we could always eat one of these ourselves,

0:31:460:31:49

but it's an absolutely beautiful cut.

0:31:490:31:51

And we serve it in the restaurant. We do it for two people,

0:31:510:31:53

on a lovely board, as we're going to show you now.

0:31:530:31:55

So it looks fantastic and... Yeah, it's just tasty and tender.

0:31:550:31:59

So the York & Albany, is that like...Italian food?

0:31:590:32:04

Cos I know obviously that's in your blood, but...

0:32:040:32:06

-Yeah.

-A mixture of that and British food?

-It's a bit of Italian.

0:32:060:32:09

Colin is the head chef there and he does some amazing British food.

0:32:090:32:12

This is actually, I've got to be honest, this is his sort of dish.

0:32:120:32:15

We put it on the menu, we gave it the twist with the gnocchi.

0:32:150:32:18

But because it's north...it's Camden, it's just by Regent's Park,

0:32:180:32:22

we like it really local. So you sort of change the menu a lot

0:32:220:32:25

cos you want regulars to be coming in all the time.

0:32:250:32:28

-And that's the idea of it. It's brilliant.

-I'm listening.

-You are.

0:32:280:32:31

You're just tucking in to the potato, aren't you?

0:32:310:32:33

-Potato skins, they're just the best ever.

-I know.

0:32:330:32:36

We always make mashed potato with the actual skin in there.

0:32:360:32:38

We put it all in together. It's beautiful.

0:32:380:32:40

They're ready. I'll give you instructions to cook mushrooms.

0:32:400:32:43

I'm going to turn the meat.

0:32:430:32:44

Instructions on how to cook mushrooms? Thank you(!)

0:32:440:32:47

Not HOW to. Come on.

0:32:470:32:48

-Right, we've got some potato here.

-Yeah, beautiful.

0:32:480:32:51

So, gnocchi masterclass. There we go.

0:32:510:32:53

Let's clear that board there.

0:32:530:32:55

-What's the secret of good gnocchi?

-One is to keep the potatoes hot.

0:32:550:32:59

That's the crucial thing. Cos otherwise, if they go cold,

0:32:590:33:01

they start to get very glutinous and rubbery and stuff.

0:33:010:33:04

The other one is to make sure, you know, use the driest potatoes.

0:33:040:33:08

We bake them in the oven, we bake them on salt,

0:33:080:33:11

so that there is no...

0:33:110:33:12

Need a little spoon there.

0:33:120:33:13

So that they don't take any extra moisture,

0:33:130:33:16

cos you want them nice and dry. So we put one egg yolk in there.

0:33:160:33:19

-It crisps up the skin, doesn't it, when you put them on salt?

-Yeah.

0:33:190:33:21

You just test. I mean, one egg is enough for that amount.

0:33:210:33:24

Add our flour there.

0:33:240:33:26

I'm making a little roux here, just a little bit of butter and some flour.

0:33:260:33:30

Yeah, perfect.

0:33:300:33:31

We've got some milk here. Just infuse... What's in here?

0:33:310:33:34

-A bit of onion?

-A bit of thyme, a little onion.

0:33:340:33:36

You can even put a little bit of clove if you want or something.

0:33:360:33:39

It's a great little thing.

0:33:390:33:40

Rosemary, if you feel like it. Garlic.

0:33:400:33:43

I'm going to turn that a bit.

0:33:430:33:45

Rinse the hands.

0:33:450:33:46

Beautiful. Now we're going to roll out the gnocchi.

0:33:460:33:49

-Do you want that in the oven?

-Yeah, I think that can go in.

0:33:490:33:52

That's perfect. We cook it for about eight to ten minutes -

0:33:520:33:55

depends how much you want it cooked,

0:33:550:33:56

whether you want it well done. and all the rest of it.

0:33:560:33:59

Straight in there. So that's 200 degrees, something like that?

0:33:590:34:02

200 degrees, yes, for about 8 to 12 minutes,

0:34:020:34:04

obviously depending how much you want it done.

0:34:040:34:08

Now, the idea, just run past this...

0:34:080:34:09

-We've got mushrooms going in the gnocchi as well.

-Yeah.

0:34:090:34:12

But we've got in here a bit of bechamel.

0:34:120:34:14

-That'll be the sauce for our gnocchi?

-Basically, what we're going to do

0:34:140:34:17

is add the bechamel to our gnocchi once we've blanched them.

0:34:170:34:19

Add the mushrooms. Put them all in a little gratin bowl there.

0:34:190:34:23

And then put the breadcrumbs on top.

0:34:230:34:25

And then we serve them on the side.

0:34:250:34:28

-Right.

-So they have that nice...

0:34:280:34:29

Then we've got little gnocchi like this.

0:34:290:34:31

So last time you were on... You were on several times.

0:34:310:34:34

-But...America, Florida?

-Yes. We opened in Florida.

0:34:340:34:37

-How is that going?

-Er, yeah, it's OK at the moment.

0:34:370:34:39

It's been tough, because, obviously, the recession -

0:34:390:34:41

it's in a big hotel and all the rest of it.

0:34:410:34:43

And then we opened Murano in August,

0:34:430:34:46

and then we opened York & Albany the September,

0:34:460:34:48

then I had a nervous breakdown in October!

0:34:480:34:51

It was just like, "What the hell? Where are we going?"

0:34:510:34:54

And what's Christmas going to bring you? Day off?

0:34:540:34:56

No, Christmas, we're open. Murano is closed.

0:34:560:34:58

We open York & Albany, because it's a hotel, obviously.

0:34:580:35:01

We've got about 200 there Christmas Day, including my family.

0:35:010:35:04

So it's easy. I don't mind Christmas working.

0:35:040:35:07

And we've got all the guys working.

0:35:070:35:08

-But it's going to be open all day?

-All day. We don't close it.

0:35:080:35:11

We did that a few years, where you close the place.

0:35:110:35:14

But at three o'clock, no-one wants to go.

0:35:140:35:16

So we basically do three, four sittings,

0:35:160:35:18

which is much better, I think.

0:35:180:35:19

So we're going to put these in the water, blanch them off?

0:35:190:35:22

-Turkey, turkey and more turkey?

-Lots of turkey.

0:35:220:35:25

The gnocchi, so simple to make. You don't need to freeze these.

0:35:250:35:27

-You pop them in the fridge, of course.

-Straight in.

0:35:270:35:30

We're going to drain them off. Get rid of the rest of that.

0:35:300:35:33

That's done.

0:35:330:35:34

So when they're cooked, that's when they float to the top, is that right?

0:35:340:35:37

Float to the top. We're going to drain them into this water here.

0:35:370:35:40

They're coming up here.

0:35:400:35:42

Mushrooms are not far off.

0:35:420:35:43

And we're going to literally mix our mushrooms with our bechamel,

0:35:430:35:46

put it all in that little tin, and ready to go.

0:35:460:35:48

I mentioned cavolo nero, which we've got in here.

0:35:480:35:51

-And chervil chopped as well, please.

-Yeah, no problem.

0:35:510:35:53

Anything else you want doing?

0:35:530:35:55

No, I'm going to go and get a drink, sit down!

0:35:550:35:57

Catch up with Ronni and everyone. It will be great.

0:35:570:36:00

But black cabbage. It's...

0:36:000:36:02

-It is produced July-October time.

-Yeah.

-Famous cabbage from Italy.

0:36:020:36:06

But we can grow it a lot really well in the UK.

0:36:060:36:08

Loads of people grow it here, who do it amazingly.

0:36:080:36:10

-You were saying you've got it in your garden.

-I do.

0:36:100:36:12

Skye does it at Petersham Nurseries. She's got the amazing stuff there.

0:36:120:36:15

It's fantastic. And we do it with a few little shallots.

0:36:150:36:19

Just saute it down.

0:36:190:36:21

You don't have to make it too complicated. It's so easy.

0:36:210:36:24

A little bit of butter, no need to boil it.

0:36:240:36:26

Just butter and a bit of water.

0:36:260:36:27

It's a tougher version of spinach, in a way.

0:36:270:36:29

So you just cook it that little bit longer.

0:36:290:36:32

-Take these gnocchi out.

-There you go.

0:36:320:36:34

-That's it.

-So they literally only want about a minute?

0:36:340:36:37

Go on. Perfect, like that. So we're going to mix those.

0:36:370:36:39

-How's our little bechamel? Is that all ready?

-That's ready.

0:36:390:36:42

Take the mushrooms, mix those in there.

0:36:420:36:44

I'll do the chervil, James.

0:36:460:36:48

-I'll do the chervil!

-No, no.

-I'll do the chervil! Give it here!

0:36:480:36:51

I love it. I think that's why I'm a chef.

0:36:510:36:54

I just love commanding loads of blokes, telling them what to do.

0:36:540:36:57

-Chervil, in there. Next.

-Too late for a change of career.

0:36:570:37:00

I know. Too late now. There we go.

0:37:000:37:02

Little bit of that in there.

0:37:020:37:03

I'll put a little bit of this water in.

0:37:030:37:05

It's so simple to cook cavolo nero. A bit of butter, some water.

0:37:050:37:08

It's how we cooked it before on the show.

0:37:080:37:10

These shallots have gone in. And just sweat that down.

0:37:100:37:13

That's it. What we've done,

0:37:130:37:14

we've put it in a nice gratin dish here with the bechamel and gnocchi.

0:37:140:37:17

-Put all these breadcrumbs on top.

-Now, explain what this is.

0:37:170:37:20

-Oh, yes, a little secret.

-Go on.

0:37:200:37:23

What we've got here is beautiful bone marrow.

0:37:230:37:25

So we roast that in the oven,

0:37:250:37:26

then you take all the centre out, which is your marrow bit.

0:37:260:37:29

Saute that down with some breadcrumbs, which are brioche,

0:37:290:37:32

so they're full of butter as well.

0:37:320:37:33

You've got the butter from the brioche,

0:37:330:37:35

you've got the lovely bone marrow.

0:37:350:37:37

Add a little bit more butter and then basically let them dry out.

0:37:370:37:39

And they give this great crust on top.

0:37:390:37:41

You want that in the oven as well? I might as well put that in as well!

0:37:410:37:44

Thank you, James.

0:37:440:37:45

All today's studio recipes, including this one from Angela,

0:37:450:37:48

are on our website. Go to bbc.co.uk/Saturday Kitchen

0:37:480:37:51

You'll find dishes from our previous shows on bbc.co.uk/recipes

0:37:510:37:55

So just under the grill. They'll nicely brown off like that.

0:37:550:37:59

-Beautiful.

-I haven't seasoned that, Angela.

0:37:590:38:01

-OK, I'll put a little bit of salt.

-There you go.

0:38:010:38:03

-Staff! What's going on?

-Staff...

0:38:030:38:05

The staff these days! I don't know.

0:38:050:38:08

You've been busy. Crikey! Up and down the M4 or whatever.

0:38:080:38:11

-There you go.

-Right, we're going to add our cavolo nero there.

0:38:110:38:14

So we do it real family style. I totally agree with Stefan.

0:38:140:38:16

Whack it all in the centre of the table, let everyone help themselves.

0:38:160:38:20

-On my old granny's chopping board.

-Your old granny's chopping board.

0:38:200:38:23

I hope she approves.

0:38:230:38:25

Thank you, my love.

0:38:250:38:27

Let's get that out of the way, actually.

0:38:270:38:29

If she's looking down from above, she'd say, "That's still mooing."

0:38:290:38:33

Is she like my mum? My mum is like that.

0:38:330:38:35

-"You never cook your meat long enough, Angela."

-Exactly.

0:38:350:38:38

Thanks, Mum. I've got a star behind my name,

0:38:380:38:40

but, no, you tell me(!)

0:38:400:38:42

And then a little bit of salt there.

0:38:420:38:43

She's going to kill me afterwards for saying that.

0:38:430:38:46

Do you know what, that looks fantastic.

0:38:460:38:47

-I'll bring that over there.

-Credit to Colin. It's his dish.

0:38:470:38:50

-But it is great. I love it.

-So remind us what that is again.

0:38:500:38:53

So you've got beautiful cote de boeuf with gratinated gnocchi

0:38:530:38:56

and bone marrow, cavolo nero and shallots.

0:38:560:38:59

-How wonderful is that!

-Thank you.

0:38:590:39:01

And I didn't do anything. There you go.

0:39:060:39:08

-No, not so many pans.

-I didn't do anything.

0:39:080:39:10

There you go. Right.

0:39:100:39:12

Do you know what, I'm fascinated by you chefs.

0:39:120:39:14

Everything... Like your gnocchi is perfect little concentric circles.

0:39:140:39:18

-Everything I cook...

-It wasn't in rehearsal!

0:39:180:39:21

I did some baking with my little girl the other day,

0:39:210:39:24

and I sort of baked this batch of mutant cupcakes

0:39:240:39:28

that were sort of crawling out of the cases,

0:39:280:39:31

like they were something out of a 1950s science fiction film.

0:39:310:39:34

And she's just staring at me and looking at them,

0:39:340:39:36

and she goes, "Mummy, should we ice them now?"

0:39:360:39:38

And I'm realising that she was looking at me

0:39:380:39:40

as some sort of role model, and I go,

0:39:400:39:42

"Darling, I don't think we should take this any further.

0:39:420:39:46

"Chocolate crispies?"

0:39:460:39:47

Chocolate crispies. Dive into that.

0:39:470:39:49

-No, I'm always the first to dive.

-Dive in. Tell us what you think.

0:39:490:39:52

This looks just so gorgeous.

0:39:520:39:54

You've used wild mushrooms for that. You could...

0:39:540:39:56

Are there other things you could put in?

0:39:560:39:58

You could take the wild mushrooms out, you could put pork in there.

0:39:580:40:01

You don't have to use beef. You could use a nice cut...

0:40:010:40:03

-You know, veal... You could use a pork chop.

-Exactly.

-So it's great.

0:40:030:40:07

-What do you reckon?

-You could have the mushroom bit by itself.

0:40:070:40:09

Take out the bone marrow and then it's vegetarian.

0:40:090:40:12

-Happy with that?

-Lovely.

-Absolutely happy.

0:40:120:40:14

Sensational, Angela. Now, I know it's for sharing,

0:40:190:40:21

but I could quite happily have that all to myself.

0:40:210:40:24

Now it's time for the charismatic, late, great Mr Keith Floyd.

0:40:240:40:28

Today he's in the Perigord region of France, fishing on the Dordogne.

0:40:280:40:32

Take it away, fella!

0:40:320:40:34

BELL RINGS

0:41:130:41:14

HIGHER-PITCHED BELL RINGS

0:41:160:41:18

STILL HIGHER PITCHED BELL RINGS

0:41:190:41:21

ZEN MUSIC BEGINS WITH RINGING BELLS

0:41:210:41:25

Sorry about this,

0:41:570:41:58

but this is the bit where Clive tries to win a few prizes

0:41:580:42:00

for really evocative photography

0:42:000:42:02

and the director likes to do the travelogue-y bit.

0:42:020:42:04

They're very keen on all this round in the Dordogne,

0:42:040:42:06

because they reckon it was the birthplace of man.

0:42:060:42:08

In fact, just a few kilometres away, there are caves with prehistoric drawings.

0:42:080:42:12

Happily, they were shut while we were there filming,

0:42:120:42:14

otherwise we'd be down scrabbling around in the dark,

0:42:140:42:17

looking at little oxes and wood fires and things.

0:42:170:42:19

Anyway, jokes apart, this river is very important.

0:42:190:42:21

This old boy here, Monsieur Pelican,

0:42:210:42:23

because of his great big nose,

0:42:230:42:25

claims he's been fishing on it, oh, since the time of Jesus Christ.

0:42:250:42:28

They exaggerate a slight bit, of course.

0:42:280:42:31

However, for Monsieur Pelican, the Dordogne is the river of life.

0:42:310:42:34

He fishes not for fun, but for his very livelihood.

0:42:340:42:38

HE LAUGHS

0:42:380:42:40

HE SPEAKS FRENCH

0:42:410:42:43

Donne un poisson a un homme,

0:42:480:42:51

il vit un jour.

0:42:510:42:52

Apprends-lui a pecher,

0:42:540:42:56

il vit toute sa vie.

0:42:560:42:58

Tout les temps.

0:42:580:43:00

Des qu'il sait pecher.

0:43:000:43:03

Il nourrit sa famille.

0:43:030:43:05

Right on, Monsieur Le Pelican. Brilliant philosophy.

0:43:110:43:13

Brilliant bloke, for that matter.

0:43:130:43:15

Trouble is, though, after 8.30 in the morning,

0:43:150:43:17

he has to share his beloved river with allcomers.

0:43:170:43:20

He really lives off this river.

0:43:200:43:22

He has been doing it for 40 years.

0:43:220:43:25

And his parents have been doing it since the birth of Jesus,

0:43:250:43:29

he said earlier on.

0:43:290:43:30

Like all fishermen, he's a good fibber.

0:43:300:43:32

THEY SPEAK FRENCH

0:43:320:43:34

They call that the partridge of the river. It's very...

0:43:430:43:46

MONSIEUR PELICAN SPEAKS FRENCH

0:43:460:43:48

Partridge of the river. He does go on a bit, this chap.

0:43:480:43:51

They catch the lot here - tench, roach, bream, pike, perch, chub...

0:43:540:43:58

wop-bop-a-loo-bam! I'm sorry, I got quite carried away there.

0:43:580:44:01

But look at that, it would give any self-respecting section

0:44:010:44:04

of a British angling club absolute apoplexy

0:44:040:44:07

to see all that lot netted out of the river.

0:44:070:44:10

This is strange for me, you know, very strange.

0:44:100:44:12

30 years ago, I caught my first ever perch.

0:44:120:44:15

It happened to be the day I also forgot to bring my sandwiches

0:44:150:44:18

and I was forced to cook my perch myself - the only way I could eat.

0:44:180:44:21

And I, too, cooked it as I am today, over a little wood fire.

0:44:210:44:24

It was absolutely wonderful.

0:44:240:44:25

That was when I got the whole bit about fishing and eating.

0:44:250:44:28

And now here I am having a really wonderful time,

0:44:280:44:31

grown up, rich and terribly famous!

0:44:310:44:33

KEITH SPEAKS ROUGH FRENCH

0:44:330:44:35

J'espere que vous aimerez la petite perche qu j'avais cuit pour vous...

0:44:350:44:38

Il fait que vous le goutez et me dites si c'est bon ou si c'est...

0:44:380:44:41

Avec plaisir, oui.

0:44:410:44:43

Avec plaisir.

0:44:430:44:44

You won't get fish any fresher than that,

0:44:440:44:46

but these guys, who, they said, have been fishing since

0:44:460:44:49

before the birth of Jesus Christ, must know a thing or two about it.

0:44:490:44:52

-Merci.

-So we shall see.

0:44:520:44:53

I expect about ten out of ten for this!

0:44:530:44:55

Ca peut aller?

0:44:570:44:58

Excellent, excellent. Bien cuit.

0:44:580:45:00

-Tres bon, excellent.

-C'est bon?

-Tres bon. Bien cuit.

0:45:020:45:04

Et Monsieur le Pelican, comment vous trouvez...

0:45:040:45:06

Je vais voir ca...

0:45:060:45:08

Moi, un poisson pour moi, c'est sacre. Il faut y aller doucement.

0:45:080:45:11

Oui. It's a sacred thing for him. You don't just rush into it.

0:45:110:45:14

Il est tres bien, il est excellent.

0:45:140:45:17

C'est un des meilleurs que je mange.

0:45:170:45:19

# If you want fish sur the table

0:45:310:45:33

# Roach or carp or barbel

0:45:330:45:35

# First you have to check that you have cast your net

0:45:350:45:38

# And then you pull them out the river

0:45:380:45:41

# See what they deliver

0:45:410:45:43

# Chub or pike or bream from out the stream, oh! #

0:45:430:45:46

They're a bit like whitebait, but they're freshwater fishes.

0:45:460:45:49

They are very popular with the people who live along the banks of the Dordogne.

0:45:490:45:52

They're very simple to do.

0:45:520:45:54

They've been cleaned by just squeezing out the inside,

0:45:540:45:56

cos you don't want those nasty bits.

0:45:560:45:58

And the very first thing you do is soak them in milk

0:45:580:46:00

just for a few moments. Like that.

0:46:000:46:03

That enables the flour, which I'm going to dredge them in,

0:46:030:46:06

to stick to them so that when they get put into the hot fat,

0:46:060:46:08

they will be golden brown.

0:46:080:46:10

And the question of the hot fat - quick test here, Clive.

0:46:100:46:13

That's it. Bung a piece of...

0:46:130:46:15

A little piece of bread in. If it turns gold immediately,

0:46:150:46:18

the fat is ready to fry with. So that's all ready to go.

0:46:180:46:21

All I now need to do is get a few of these, shake off the...

0:46:210:46:24

I'm not going to cook them all, because I haven't enough fat.

0:46:240:46:27

Shake off the excess milk, dredge them in flour

0:46:270:46:30

then shake off the flour like that.

0:46:300:46:33

And I'll do that by putting them into here. OK.

0:46:330:46:37

Shake off all the flour,

0:46:370:46:39

then they've got to be salt-and-peppered very quickly.

0:46:390:46:42

Shake it around again.

0:46:440:46:46

And then just dropped into there.

0:46:460:46:47

While those are frying...

0:46:470:46:50

Clive, if you'd like to come back.

0:46:500:46:51

What is a great favourite here is to serve it with a persillade,

0:46:510:46:54

which is a piece of garlic

0:46:540:46:56

very finely chopped like that,

0:46:560:46:58

and some parsley.

0:46:580:47:00

And you just chop it all up

0:47:000:47:02

as fine as you possibly can.

0:47:020:47:04

Always use a knife with a rounded edge.

0:47:040:47:07

There we are. I like showing off like that.

0:47:090:47:11

But do be careful of your fingers if you can't do it as fast as I.

0:47:110:47:14

Right, I should think they will be about ready.

0:47:140:47:16

I'll just test one to see.

0:47:160:47:18

Absolutely fabulous.

0:47:180:47:20

Um... Ah.

0:47:200:47:22

There's only one person who is going to tell me if this is any good.

0:47:230:47:26

Monsieur Pelican.

0:47:260:47:28

-Pas assez cuit.

-They're not cooked enough.

0:47:280:47:30

We've got to keep them in longer. They are not golden brown enough.

0:47:300:47:33

We've got to have these things exactly right.

0:47:330:47:35

Monsieur Le Pelican also like to add a good dollop of duck oil

0:47:350:47:38

or goose fat into his ordinary cooking oil to enrich it even more.

0:47:380:47:42

And also he says you never cook these

0:47:420:47:44

in the same oil more than once. Always use fresh oil.

0:47:440:47:47

Ca va?

0:47:470:47:48

Bon.

0:47:490:47:51

We put them on there like that?

0:47:510:47:53

-Parfait.

-Parfait? He says they're perfect.

0:47:530:47:55

Then we put the persillade over like that.

0:47:550:47:57

-Voila.

-OK?

-Voila.

0:47:570:48:00

Un peu de sel.

0:48:000:48:01

-Et vous aimez beaucoup de poivre?

-Oui.

0:48:010:48:04

Lots of pepper.

0:48:040:48:06

Ca va comme ca?

0:48:060:48:08

Oui. Voila. Parfait.

0:48:080:48:09

OK?

0:48:180:48:20

C'est l'or de la Dordogne.

0:48:200:48:22

L'or de la Dordogne.

0:48:220:48:24

That's the gold of the Dordogne. That is the best of the catch.

0:48:240:48:27

It's what everybody round here really loves.

0:48:270:48:29

BRASS BAND PLAYS

0:48:310:48:33

Oh, good, here's another one of me and Bernard,

0:48:500:48:53

this time getting in with the in crowd.

0:48:530:48:55

These chaps in gold robes are celebrating

0:48:550:48:57

the Bergerac Wine Festival.

0:48:570:48:58

It's a place for fun and serious business,

0:48:580:49:01

but above all, it's a place to appreciate wines.

0:49:010:49:04

It doesn't matter whether you drive a tractor or own a vineyard,

0:49:040:49:07

here, your opinion is sought and respected.

0:49:070:49:09

Although wine is a very serious business,

0:49:090:49:12

happily it knows no social boundaries,

0:49:120:49:14

and, much more important as far as I'm concerned,

0:49:140:49:16

Bernard has been fixing again, and I'm going to get one of those medals

0:49:160:49:20

these guys from the Star Chamber,

0:49:200:49:21

or wherever they come from, are wearing.

0:49:210:49:24

Naturally, these great honours aren't bestowed on any old body.

0:49:240:49:27

You've really got to know what you're talking about.

0:49:270:49:29

So I, of course, went on a crash course

0:49:290:49:31

of Bordeaux and Bergerac wines.

0:49:310:49:33

Now, are you sitting comfortably? Cos this is what you need to know.

0:49:330:49:35

-PAGES RUSTLE

-First of all, turn a few pages

0:49:350:49:38

in Hugh Johnson's Pocket Wine Guide.

0:49:380:49:40

"Beaumes de Venise, Beaumes... Bergerac"!

0:49:400:49:43

Here we are, Bergerac.

0:49:430:49:44

"Dordogne. R or W. SW or DR.

0:49:440:49:47

"Two stars, '82. '83. '84. W. '85.

0:49:470:49:51

"Lightweight, often tasty Bordeaux-style wine.

0:49:510:49:54

"Drink young, the white very young."

0:49:540:49:56

Got all that?

0:49:560:49:57

THEY SPEAK FRENCH

0:49:570:50:00

All this drinking, all this tasting, and I don't get to get any!

0:50:090:50:12

It's a bit grim.

0:50:120:50:14

I was invited here to be enthroned by knights in robes

0:50:140:50:17

in chapels and things like that.

0:50:170:50:18

I've got to pass an exam before they'll let me downstairs

0:50:180:50:21

to the enthroning room. It's absolutely terrifying.

0:50:210:50:23

I'm going to have a quick snifter here.

0:50:230:50:25

It's a Pecharmant, it's a very, very good wine.

0:50:250:50:28

But they asked me all these leading questions.

0:50:280:50:30

I don't really know the answers!

0:50:300:50:31

Excuse me, I'm going back to fill in part two, in my own time,

0:50:310:50:34

one side of the paper at a time, in my own writing.

0:50:340:50:37

# Chevaliers

0:50:380:50:42

# De Bergerac

0:50:420:50:46

# With your robes

0:50:480:50:51

# Upon your back

0:50:510:50:54

# But did not it

0:50:570:51:02

# Make me feel

0:51:040:51:07

# A proper twit. #

0:51:080:51:11

THEY SPEAK AND REPLY IN FRENCH

0:51:130:51:16

These guys really know how to lay on a ceremony, don't they?

0:51:250:51:27

I'm trembling in honour here. Almost in panic.

0:51:270:51:30

In fact, it is even more important than when I got commissioned,

0:51:300:51:33

or even got selected for the second XV. Or even getting my O-levels.

0:51:330:51:36

This is amazing!

0:51:360:51:37

Look at that. The final result of hours of really intense study.

0:51:370:51:41

Consulat du Wine de Bergerac. That's me. There's my name, look.

0:51:410:51:44

Keith Floyd. And all those very important signatures

0:51:440:51:46

prove the fact that I slipped a couple down while I was over there.

0:51:460:51:50

I think more people ought to get medals.

0:51:500:51:52

It would be a happier place.

0:51:520:51:53

If you mended the gas meter, you get a medal.

0:51:530:51:56

Drive a bus well, you get a medal.

0:51:560:51:58

Oh, I'm not too sure about that bit!

0:51:580:52:00

We've had a lot of fun. We've shown you the Perigord,

0:52:010:52:03

we've shown you the simple peasant dishes.

0:52:030:52:05

It is a cookery programme,

0:52:050:52:06

so I thought we ought to have a really good sequence

0:52:060:52:09

where a splendid, exotic dish

0:52:090:52:11

like chicken stewed with freshwater crayfish

0:52:110:52:13

is prepared for you by a master.

0:52:130:52:15

And I'm going to write a little commentary now.

0:52:150:52:18

But, David, you're the blinking director. How do I deal with this?

0:52:180:52:21

You should say what he's actually cutting up at the moment.

0:52:210:52:24

Right, he's got to start by chopping the onions.

0:52:240:52:26

By the way, this was a very, very difficult bit,

0:52:260:52:29

because the atmosphere was so tense.

0:52:290:52:31

You could cut the whole thing with a blinking knife, actually.

0:52:310:52:34

The director didn't like the cook very much,

0:52:340:52:36

the cook resented the film crew being in there,

0:52:360:52:38

interrupting the normal day of work.

0:52:380:52:39

First of all,

0:52:390:52:41

he takes the shells off some pre-boiled freshwater crayfishes.

0:52:410:52:45

-He was very miserable, wasn't he?

-He was very unhappy.

-Very miserable.

0:52:450:52:49

Crushing those up. He has saved the tails for later on.

0:52:490:52:53

What do I do now?

0:52:530:52:54

You talk about him moving the chicken breasts

0:52:540:52:57

into that little bowl.

0:52:570:52:59

I would have thought the pictures were self-explanatory.

0:52:590:53:01

He just put something in there.

0:53:010:53:02

We're not quite sure what he is putting in.

0:53:020:53:05

He's put shallots into the pan,

0:53:050:53:06

the same pan in which he fried the butter - fried the chicken. Sorry.

0:53:060:53:10

Now he has got to add -

0:53:100:53:12

I know he has got to add - some tomato finely chopped up

0:53:120:53:15

and the ecrevisse shells, which he's already crushed, right?

0:53:150:53:18

Absolutely. There's the tomato there. We see the tomato there.

0:53:180:53:22

Bubbling up quite nicely, I think.

0:53:220:53:23

Then the shells go in.

0:53:230:53:25

Then he has got to add a bit of saffron. Very expensive, saffron.

0:53:250:53:29

I think he'll probably do that in a minute and get round to that.

0:53:290:53:31

-You can see he is quite miserable, can't you, in that shot there?

-Yes.

0:53:330:53:38

That's the saffron going in.

0:53:390:53:42

Why do they get so upset about it? I mean, we're quite polite to them.

0:53:420:53:45

-You're terribly polite, terribly polite.

-Chicken back in now.

0:53:450:53:48

So the chicken gets the flavour of the saffron and the crayfish shells

0:53:480:53:53

and the little bits of onion and tomato.

0:53:530:53:55

This is an important bit here.

0:53:550:53:57

This is the fumet de volaille.

0:53:570:53:59

It's a very, very reduced chicken stock

0:53:590:54:02

and you mustn't use gravy ganules to...

0:54:020:54:04

Gravy ganules?

0:54:040:54:06

Sorry. Gravy GRANULES.

0:54:060:54:09

THEY LAUGH

0:54:090:54:11

It's bubbling up quite nicely.

0:54:110:54:12

That now simmers away for about ten minutes or so.

0:54:120:54:15

Oh, look, another BBC lid.

0:54:150:54:17

Frying pan, actually.

0:54:170:54:18

Into the oven for about ten minutes

0:54:180:54:19

for the chicken to absorb the flavours of the ecrevisse.

0:54:190:54:22

-SONG BEGINS

-Oops, here's a witty bit!

0:54:220:54:24

# Here we sit for a bit

0:54:240:54:26

# Magnifique, c'est si bon

0:54:260:54:28

# Et how long is this song

0:54:280:54:30

# Well, they reckon 60 seconds

0:54:300:54:32

# Killing time with this rhyme

0:54:320:54:34

# Now it's back where we belong! #

0:54:340:54:36

Right, the chicken is out now.

0:54:370:54:39

It's been stewed in the stock and the shellfish.

0:54:390:54:42

And all we've got to do is reduce that sauce a little bit further

0:54:440:54:47

and strain it, get rid of the crayfish shells.

0:54:470:54:50

Thicken it with butter. I wish he'd hurry up a bit.

0:54:500:54:52

I'm sure he was deliberately going slow that day.

0:54:520:54:54

-The lighting man nearly bopped him, you know.

-I know!

0:54:560:55:00

-Kept tripping over the lamps.

-You've got to keep up.

0:55:000:55:02

Sorry. Now he has strained the sauce.

0:55:020:55:04

He is now going to thicken that and enrich it with a knob of butter,

0:55:040:55:07

which you should whisk in,

0:55:070:55:08

but this guy is so laid back he just shakes it on the stove.

0:55:080:55:11

But first he is going to decorate the dish with the boiled crayfish.

0:55:110:55:17

Notice the shells have been taken off the tail

0:55:170:55:19

so you can eat the chicken... So you can eat the meat very easily.

0:55:190:55:22

-And a bit of butter going in there.

-Yeah.

0:55:240:55:27

Bit of sweat going in there.

0:55:290:55:30

Bit of sweat. He looks so unhappy.

0:55:300:55:32

Oh, dear. It's funny, but he's a brilliant cook.

0:55:350:55:37

That's the whole point.

0:55:370:55:39

I'm glad this sequence is coming to an end, actually.

0:55:390:55:41

-I think it does go on a bit, don't you?

-It's a bit too long.

0:55:410:55:44

It's very difficult to write

0:55:440:55:45

-a commentary for such a thing.

-Yes.

0:55:450:55:47

-Well, you haven't, have you?

-I haven't written it, no!

0:55:470:55:50

Anyway, I think it's the next bit

0:55:500:55:51

with the hotel owner coming up fairly soon.

0:55:510:55:53

He is quite philosophical about Perigord.

0:55:530:55:56

MAN SPEAKS FRENCH

0:55:560:55:58

C'est incroyable, ca.

0:55:580:56:00

Ici, c'est la ou toute la societe,

0:56:000:56:05

toute la civilisation demarrent de notre pays.

0:56:050:56:07

Alors, moi, quelquefois, je peux aller voir ce qui c'est passe,

0:56:070:56:11

mais je suis condamne a revenir en Perigord,

0:56:110:56:13

parce que j'ai tout en Perigord - j'ai la douceur de vivre,

0:56:130:56:17

j'ai le climat, j'ai la qualite des produits,

0:56:170:56:21

je suis heureux.

0:56:210:56:22

He's a very happy man. He said, "Why do I love Perigord?

0:56:240:56:27

"Why do I love Perigord?" He said, "It's the birthplace of humanity.

0:56:270:56:30

"It's the birthplace of Western art.

0:56:300:56:32

"I go to other places just for curiosity.

0:56:320:56:34

"But I am condemned to stay in this wonderful place," he says,

0:56:340:56:38

"the birthplace of humanity."

0:56:380:56:40

Thanks for that, Keith.

0:56:580:56:59

The scenery, food and wine, for that matter, looked fantastic.

0:56:590:57:03

As ever on Best Bites, we're looking back at some of the best recipes

0:57:030:57:06

from the Saturday Kitchen library.

0:57:060:57:08

Still to come on today's Best Bites,

0:57:080:57:10

Adam Byatt faces Raymond Blanc

0:57:100:57:12

for his first attempt at the Omelette Challenge.

0:57:120:57:14

See how they both got on in just a few minutes.

0:57:140:57:17

The king of spice, Vivek Singh,

0:57:170:57:19

treats us to a tandoori breast of pigeon.

0:57:190:57:21

He marinates the pigeon before cooking it in a tandoori oven

0:57:210:57:24

and serving it with home-made naan bread.

0:57:240:57:27

And Lesley Garrett faces her Food Heaven or Food Hell.

0:57:270:57:29

Would she get her Food Heaven,

0:57:290:57:31

pan-fried mackerel with gooseberry sauce

0:57:310:57:33

new potatoes and salad leaves?

0:57:330:57:35

Or would she get her dreaded Food Hell,

0:57:350:57:37

fig and chocolate tart with raspberry sauce

0:57:370:57:39

and a white chocolate ice cream?

0:57:390:57:41

You can find out what she gets to eat at the end of the show.

0:57:410:57:44

Now, I was particularly excited when Vivek Singh came in to cook

0:57:440:57:47

this next dish, not just because his food is fantastic,

0:57:470:57:50

but for this recipe we had to have our very own tandoori oven

0:57:500:57:54

specially brought in.

0:57:540:57:56

Even Daniel Galmiche and Chris Evans got involved.

0:57:560:57:58

Forget the Omelette Challenge, enter the Naan Off!

0:57:580:58:01

It's the fabulous Vivek Singh.

0:58:010:58:02

Now, you're going to blame me for this recipe.

0:58:020:58:04

No, not at all, James.

0:58:040:58:06

Because when we decided the 200th anniversary of the show

0:58:060:58:08

I wanted a tandoori oven, I wanted you on the show.

0:58:080:58:11

We've got them both.

0:58:110:58:12

-What are we doing?

-You got the tandoor.

0:58:120:58:15

You've gone to a lot of effort.

0:58:150:58:16

-So we will do a tandoori breast of pigeon.

-Yep.

0:58:160:58:19

Hopefully very quick to do, as well.

0:58:190:58:21

Served with some black lentils, some home-made, freshly baked naan bread.

0:58:210:58:25

-Yeah.

-And you'll do a little kachumber.

0:58:250:58:27

A kachumber, which is a salad.

0:58:270:58:29

First thing, you want to get that pigeon on.

0:58:290:58:31

Yeah, I want to get the pigeon on.

0:58:310:58:32

This is what we're going to make, but we'll show you how to do this.

0:58:320:58:35

-You want to get that on cooking? So we'll get that on.

-Get this going.

0:58:350:58:39

Meanwhile, I will do naan bread,

0:58:390:58:41

which hopefully... Excuse me a second, carry on.

0:58:410:58:44

You stick that on the skewers.

0:58:440:58:46

I'll stick them on the skewers

0:58:460:58:48

while you get organised with what you...

0:58:480:58:50

Yeah, I'm watching.

0:58:500:58:52

That's fine, that's all right.

0:58:520:58:55

So, yeah, we've got this pigeon breast.

0:58:550:58:58

These breasts have been marinated for about 30 minutes.

0:58:580:59:01

You could marinate them overnight if you do them beforehand.

0:59:010:59:04

This is one of the oldest forms of cooking.

0:59:040:59:06

This is one of the oldest forms of cooking known to mankind.

0:59:060:59:10

As I say, there's a lot of people think of Mughlai food,

0:59:100:59:14

Mughal style of cooking...

0:59:140:59:16

-Yeah.

-..and think of tandoors that way.

0:59:160:59:18

Whoa. You can really see it going.

0:59:180:59:21

Now, traditionally, this would be a charcoal barbecue, charcoal tandoor.

0:59:210:59:25

-Charcoal.

-We've got a gas one here.

-Exactly.

0:59:250:59:28

Well...

0:59:290:59:30

-Let it...

-So this goes in for, what, how long?

0:59:300:59:33

We'll put it in for four minutes and see.

0:59:330:59:35

We need to take it out and let it rest for a couple of minutes.

0:59:350:59:38

Show us how to do this.

0:59:380:59:40

I'll read the temperature. It is...

0:59:400:59:42

-..500 degrees centigrade.

-Wow!

0:59:430:59:45

When we fire the charcoal ones, James,

0:59:450:59:48

they go on to 800 degrees when they're firing up.

0:59:480:59:51

-We obviously don't cook anything in there.

-Yeah.

0:59:510:59:53

The only thing it would cook...

0:59:530:59:54

-I've actually done a night's work in your restaurant.

-Yeah.

0:59:540:59:57

Your tandoori chef... You can tell the tandoori chefs apart

0:59:571:00:00

cos they've got... One arm is full of hair...

1:00:001:00:03

And the other one - absolutely nothing in there.

1:00:031:00:06

LAUGHTER

1:00:061:00:07

That's what this does to you.

1:00:071:00:10

-Right, so explain to us what this is doing.

-I've taken the skin off,

1:00:101:00:13

because I don't like cooking in the tandoor with the skin.

1:00:131:00:15

Traditionally, the marinade includes a considerable amount of yoghurt.

1:00:151:00:19

And it just turns it very chewy and soggy,

1:00:191:00:21

so the skin doesn't crisp up like it would otherwise.

1:00:211:00:24

So we've got some ginger and garlic paste.

1:00:241:00:28

Now, do you always marinate food that's in a tandoor?

1:00:281:00:30

Yeah, you always do.

1:00:301:00:32

It just... It flavours, but it also tenderises...

1:00:321:00:36

-tenderises the meat.

-Yeah.

-And also...

1:00:361:00:38

the yoghurt protects it from the fierce heat of the tandoor.

1:00:381:00:42

As it's cooling down...

1:00:421:00:43

Obviously, yours is almost on permanently, all the time,

1:00:431:00:46

cos yours is charcoal in the restaurant?

1:00:461:00:48

Yes. They have not gone out for the last ten years

1:00:481:00:51

that the restaurant has been going.

1:00:511:00:53

So they're on all day, every day for ten years.

1:00:531:00:55

Ten years the tandoors have never gone out.

1:00:551:00:58

That's a really bad sign if a tandoor goes out in an Indian...

1:00:581:01:01

So if we're getting cold this weekend,

1:01:011:01:03

-we should go round to yours?

-Absolutely, absolutely.

1:01:031:01:05

And we've got the black lentils.

1:01:051:01:07

I'll get the black lentils started off.

1:01:071:01:09

Just soak the black lentils for three or four hours,

1:01:091:01:12

even overnight if you would.

1:01:121:01:13

This man is so good to his staff,

1:01:131:01:15

it's the only restaurant that I've ever been to

1:01:151:01:17

that's actually got Sky and cricket on 24 hours a day on the hot pass.

1:01:171:01:22

Normally you get a check system

1:01:221:01:24

-that comes up. You've got a TV.

-Yeah, absolutely.

-With cricket on.

1:01:241:01:27

What's the current score in the Ashes, then, Vivek?

1:01:271:01:29

Well, the last time I saw,

1:01:291:01:32

England were all out for 271.

1:01:321:01:34

-All right.

-I've just added a couple of spices in there.

1:01:341:01:38

Toast these off.

1:01:381:01:40

Toast them off slightly.

1:01:401:01:41

Some cloves and some cumin.

1:01:411:01:43

-That goes into the marinade as well.

-Yeah.

1:01:431:01:45

I've got some yoghurt here, which is going to go in.

1:01:451:01:50

Right, that's your kachumber salad,

1:01:501:01:52

which is basically...

1:01:521:01:53

Blended it all in.

1:01:531:01:55

-All this mixed in. That's your marinated pigeon breast.

-Right.

1:01:551:01:59

So that's that pigeon.

1:01:591:02:00

Now, you are going to get on and do the lentils,

1:02:001:02:02

which are these little black lentils.

1:02:021:02:04

These are not Puy lentils?

1:02:041:02:07

They look a bit like Puy lentils, they aren't. They...

1:02:071:02:10

Can I show these? See what these are?

1:02:101:02:12

They're very nutty. They're used throughout the country, actually.

1:02:121:02:15

They are used in the north and the south.

1:02:151:02:17

They are kind of like mung beans. They look like mung beans.

1:02:171:02:19

They are like mung beans, but they are black and they are urad...

1:02:191:02:22

They're called urad lentils.

1:02:221:02:23

You can buy them in most Asian stores nowadays.

1:02:231:02:26

-And for the...for the lentils...

-What have you cooked them in?

1:02:261:02:30

-You cook them in just water?

-Just water and a tiny bit of salt.

1:02:301:02:33

Usually, we'd cook them overnight.

1:02:331:02:36

Last thing we do before we leave the...

1:02:361:02:39

we leave the kitchens is...

1:02:391:02:42

leave soaked urad lentils on the tandoor

1:02:421:02:45

and come back the next morning, and they have...

1:02:451:02:48

So what spices have you got in there?

1:02:481:02:52

I've got red chilli powder

1:02:521:02:53

and a bit of garam masala,

1:02:531:02:55

which is my own recipe.

1:02:551:02:58

-Ginger and garlic paste.

-Yeah.

-Salt, sugar.

1:02:581:03:02

And cook it through, cook it really long.

1:03:021:03:04

There's going to be a lot of people this morning waking up with hangovers

1:03:041:03:07

that have probably got a naan bread or half a naan bread

1:03:071:03:10

stuck to their face!

1:03:101:03:11

LAUGHTER

1:03:111:03:13

This is how they make it.

1:03:131:03:15

-Yeah.

-Flour... Plain flour?

1:03:151:03:17

-Yes.

-Plain flour?

-Plain... Unleavened...

1:03:171:03:20

-Non-raising flour.

-Non-raising flour.

1:03:201:03:22

-Oil?

-Oil, eggs, baking powder.

1:03:221:03:26

-Egg.

-Salt, sugar.

1:03:261:03:28

Salt, sugar and baking powder?

1:03:281:03:30

-Yeah.

-Done. Salt and sugar is important.

1:03:301:03:33

Obviously, in there. And milk.

1:03:331:03:34

-You just mix all that?

-Mix it all up together.

1:03:341:03:37

OK. So I mix all that in.

1:03:371:03:39

-And you leave this to prove, do you?

-No, you don't prove it.

1:03:391:03:41

-Because it's got baking powder, it will instantly rise.

-OK.

1:03:411:03:44

Your pigeon has had four minutes in there.

1:03:441:03:46

I'll just give this a mix together.

1:03:461:03:48

Now, if you wanted to do garlic naan, you add that after?

1:03:481:03:51

Yeah, it's a topping. You would. Look at that.

1:03:511:03:54

-It smells amazing, doesn't it?

-Look at that.

1:03:541:03:56

It's so far away, but it's so strong as well.

1:03:561:03:59

-But you can buy these ovens for home if you want these.

-Yes, you can.

1:03:591:04:03

You can actually buy these ovens.

1:04:031:04:04

There's a company around now that's doing them.

1:04:041:04:07

They will be very happy to send them across.

1:04:071:04:09

-It's called The Clay Oven Company.

-Yeah.

1:04:091:04:12

-James, have you not got a tandoori in your place?

-I want to get one.

1:04:121:04:15

I've got the pizza oven, of course.

1:04:151:04:17

You want a genuine one, don't you?

1:04:171:04:19

I'd like a proper charcoal,

1:04:191:04:21

cos I think it's really, really good with charcoal.

1:04:211:04:23

You get that, but it's incredibly hot.

1:04:231:04:25

If you're going to go to the trouble of getting one,

1:04:251:04:27

you are better off getting a...

1:04:271:04:29

getting the real McCoy, getting a charcoal one.

1:04:291:04:32

Right. So we've got our kachumber salad here.

1:04:321:04:34

Next, this is our naan bread.

1:04:341:04:36

Yeah. OK. I'll get this over.

1:04:361:04:38

You want to sprinkle these with a little bit of black onion seed

1:04:381:04:41

-or something like that?

-Yeah, black onion seeds.

1:04:411:04:43

If you've got any garlic or coriander...

1:04:431:04:45

-Have you got any coriander chopped?

-I can do some.

1:04:451:04:47

Right, Mr Evans, this is your moment.

1:04:471:04:49

-You didn't realise you were going to be making this.

-Am I coming over?

1:04:491:04:52

You are. Coming over now.

1:04:521:04:54

You need to roll your sleeves up, get rid of any jewellery.

1:04:541:04:57

-There you go.

-Chris is going to love this.

1:04:571:04:59

Can I have a bucket of ice to put my arm in?

1:04:591:05:01

-You don't do the sun, do you, really?

-I don't do the sun.

1:05:011:05:04

One of the things when my blood test came up was lack of vitamin D.

1:05:041:05:07

My skin hasn't seen the sun for 25 years.

1:05:071:05:10

And now it's about to see the sun!

1:05:101:05:12

-850 degrees.

-Close to the sun, this is!

1:05:121:05:14

Absolutely, absolutely.

1:05:141:05:16

What sensible behaviour on a Saturday morning(!)

1:05:161:05:18

Well, if you get a bit of coriander on it, you can do that.

1:05:181:05:22

-So grab one of these - there you go.

-Thank you.

1:05:221:05:25

And there you go.

1:05:261:05:27

-What have you just done?

-I've just... Ha-ha!

1:05:291:05:33

-OK, mine's stuck to the thing.

-You have to do it by...

1:05:331:05:36

-No, that's...

-Guys, I'm coming too.

1:05:361:05:38

I don't want you to have all the fun in here.

1:05:381:05:40

-Now, this is really, really hot, so you put this on what?

-Yeah...

1:05:401:05:43

What's this called - that pad?

1:05:431:05:46

-This is a little pillow I've made.

-Right.

-Yeah?

1:05:461:05:49

Just a little pillow. Just some wrapped up napkins and...

1:05:491:05:53

And then, the idea is... you grab this and stick it?

1:05:531:05:58

-Very, very quickly...

-Look at him! He knows!

1:05:581:06:01

JAMES: Argh!

1:06:011:06:02

LAUGHTER

1:06:021:06:04

-I see why you're on the show, James!

-Yeah!

1:06:041:06:07

Smell that skin! > WOMEN LAUGH

1:06:071:06:09

He's doing that with his jumper! Right, there you go, right.

1:06:091:06:12

-Yeah, now we know why Vivek wore a jumper today!

-Ha-ha!

1:06:121:06:15

-Well, you guys have fun with that!

-So, put it in there.

-OK.

1:06:151:06:18

Right, the idea is you've got to put that... You plate up, Vivek.

1:06:181:06:22

-The idea is, you hold this.

-Yeah, yeah.

1:06:221:06:24

-You hold the pad.

-Yeah, you hold the pad.

1:06:241:06:26

-You slam it on?

-Below that one.

-Below that one?!

-Yeah.

1:06:261:06:28

-This is like the opposite of the omelette challenge.

-Go on, then.

1:06:281:06:31

-Below that one?

-It's got to stick to the side.

-OK.

1:06:311:06:34

-Don't touch the edge of the edge.

-OK, ready?

-Yeah.

-OK.

1:06:341:06:37

-Ooh!

-LAUGHTER

1:06:381:06:40

How's that going?

1:06:401:06:42

-Bye-bye! Bye-bye!

-LAUGHTER

1:06:421:06:45

-OK, your go.

-Time to put my thing, yeah?

-Vive la France!

1:06:451:06:48

-Daniel?

-Ah, voila! Merci beaucoup!

-OK.

1:06:481:06:51

-Vive la France!

-Let's get you ready.

-Let's get ready.

-Come on, son.

1:06:511:06:54

-Right, you plate up, cos we're nearly ready.

-Right, you've got to go lower.

1:06:541:06:57

-Where do you say?

-Let me take this one out.

1:06:571:06:59

-Yeah, yeah, yeah.

-Lower than a two!

1:06:591:07:01

I don't think this was a good idea, to be honest.

1:07:021:07:04

-LAUGHTER

-Are you ready?

-Yeah, go on, Daniel.

1:07:041:07:07

Just let me take this one out.

1:07:071:07:09

-Right, we've got one.

-Very good. OK.

1:07:111:07:13

-That's so high!

-JAMES LAUGHS: Look!

1:07:141:07:16

-It's barely in there, Daniel!

-Right, OK, don't worry.

-Oh, well!

1:07:161:07:20

You plate up. We've got our pigeon on.

1:07:201:07:22

-OK.

-Did you put yours really low?

1:07:221:07:24

Yeah, yeah! Mine's is all the way down the bottom.

1:07:241:07:26

-Wow! That's low, huh?

-Right, that's how they should look.

1:07:261:07:29

-I'm going to take Mr Evans' out in a minute.

-OK.

1:07:291:07:32

-That one's yours. Would you agree?

-That is mine, yeah.

1:07:321:07:35

-Wow, that's very low!

-Aw, that's a belter! Look at that!

1:07:351:07:38

You don't get any better than that, look.

1:07:381:07:41

LAUGHTER

1:07:411:07:44

-It's not looking good for the souffle!

-It isn't!

1:07:441:07:47

Right, a bit of butter on the naan bread.

1:07:471:07:49

-Can you butter the naan bread, Daniel, please?

-Yeah, OK.

-Oh, dear!

1:07:491:07:52

-LAUGHTER CONTINUES

-That's fantastic!

1:07:521:07:55

-Have a seat back down there.

-I'm just going to go over here.

-Yes!

1:07:551:07:57

Right, there you go. WOMEN GIGGLE >

1:07:571:08:00

-Is there still one in?

-Yeah.

1:08:001:08:02

-There you go.

-Oh, well, that's not too bad.

-Not bad at all, is it?

1:08:021:08:05

-I'll leave you to it now.

-Great stuff.

1:08:051:08:07

-Thanks, Daniel.

-Thank you for the try.

1:08:071:08:09

-You all had fun, I hope!

-So, while you plate that up,

1:08:091:08:11

and put the naan bread next to it, remind us what that is again?

1:08:111:08:14

Well, tandoori breast of pigeon, the black lentils and kachumber salad

1:08:141:08:17

-and freshly-made naan bread.

-Naan bread!

-Rock and roll, come on, guys!

1:08:171:08:21

-ALL: Yeah!

-Look at that.

-APPLAUSE

1:08:211:08:23

Great fun.

1:08:241:08:26

-How fantastic is that?

-Great stuff.

-Over here.

1:08:281:08:31

That was a huge effort, wasn't it?

1:08:311:08:33

HE LAUGHS: It was! How's your hand?

1:08:331:08:35

-It's OK, it's OK!

-The hairs have gone, though!

-I know, don't worry.

1:08:351:08:38

I didn't use them for anything anyway!

1:08:381:08:40

-The poor guy does that all night!

-Yeah, literally no hairs on his arms!

1:08:401:08:45

-One arm.

-Yeah, one arm. You can tell which section he's on, look!

1:08:451:08:48

-Yeah!

-In the office! LAUGHTER

1:08:481:08:50

Stunning! Just stunning!

1:08:501:08:51

-Stunning?

-Yeah, generally stunning.

-Try it with the naan bread.

-OK.

1:08:511:08:54

It's a wonderful smoky aroma you get from the juices dripping

1:08:541:08:57

-onto the coals, yeah.

-The naan bread's so cool to make like that.

1:08:571:09:00

-Yeah.

-So, could you do that with the skin on, or not at all?

1:09:001:09:03

Not if you're using yoghurt in the marinade. If you weren't,

1:09:031:09:06

-if you're using tamarind and soy sauce or something like that.

-Yeah.

1:09:061:09:09

There's a real science with your spice, it's very difficult.

1:09:091:09:12

Absolutely incredible stuff.

1:09:171:09:19

And I hope the hairs on your arms have grown back, gents.

1:09:191:09:22

Now, there was certainly no rushing a certain Raymond Blanc,

1:09:221:09:25

when Adam Byatt came in for his first omelette challenge.

1:09:251:09:28

But what times would they get? Let's find out.

1:09:281:09:31

Let's get down to business.

1:09:311:09:32

All the chefs that come onto the show battle it out against each other

1:09:321:09:35

to test how fast they can make a simple three-egg omelette.

1:09:351:09:38

Raymond, last time you were here,

1:09:381:09:39

you made one of the most stylish omelettes on the show.

1:09:391:09:42

A little bit of truffle over the top.

1:09:421:09:43

But down here, at 1 minute, 40 seconds.

1:09:431:09:46

That was after I took a few seconds off you as well.

1:09:461:09:48

-And no shame whatsoever!

-No shame! Just a fantastic omelette.

1:09:481:09:51

-Now, Adam...

-Yeah?

-It's your first go.

-Yeah.

1:09:511:09:54

Anybody you want to beat?

1:09:541:09:55

-Er, not really, I don't think.

-You're eyeing up Mr Gillies here?

1:09:551:09:58

I know Stuart, yeah. I know a few of the guys. It's nice to be...

1:09:581:10:01

-I think blue's good.

-Blue's good? A tall order, all right!

1:10:011:10:04

Not competitive, but blue's good.

1:10:041:10:05

OK, usual rules apply. Three-egg omelette cooked as fast as you can.

1:10:051:10:08

You can use milk, cream, cheese - whatever you want.

1:10:081:10:10

The clock stops as soon as the omelette hits the plate. Ready?

1:10:101:10:13

-Three, two, one!

-Can we have some salt? Oh, it's there.

-Go!

-OK, fine.

1:10:131:10:17

-I love Raymond, look at him.

-It's too much like...

1:10:241:10:27

-He's cooking for breakfast!

-Time goes too fast!

1:10:271:10:29

-LAUGHTER

-Time goes too fast.

1:10:291:10:32

Bit of salt. Fantastic.

1:10:321:10:34

-Imagine, why would you want an omelette in one minute?

-Look at..

1:10:341:10:38

Yeah, because... Because I'd quite like some time

1:10:381:10:41

to cook Richard something at the end of the show.

1:10:411:10:43

-That's brilliant. That's really good.

-He's done it!

1:10:441:10:47

-That is quick! That's gotta be seriously quick!

-Yeah.

1:10:471:10:52

LAUGHTER

1:10:521:10:54

-I know, I like...

-I feel guilty!

1:10:541:10:57

-I still don't feel guilty...

-I feel guilty!

-..whatsoever!

1:10:571:11:00

-No, in your own time(!)

-Absolutely!

1:11:001:11:03

Very gradual.

1:11:031:11:04

-So what's the secret of cooking a really, really good omelette?

-Slowly.

1:11:041:11:07

-Slowly!

-Slowly?

-Exactly!

-LAUGHTER

1:11:071:11:10

That is totally overcooked. More than the...

1:11:101:11:13

You will have probably poisoned someone with salmonella.

1:11:131:11:16

-Yeah, exactly.

-Very dangerous.

-Yeah.

-It's beautiful!

1:11:161:11:18

LAUGHTER

1:11:181:11:21

I'm sure it's a fantastic technique, but, er... And it is lovely, OK?

1:11:211:11:26

But I think, for me, for slow-cooking...

1:11:261:11:29

-Oh, it's nearly there!

-Very gently, OK.

-Nearly there.

-OK.

1:11:291:11:32

-I think it's quite important, cos that pan is too big as well.

-Yeah.

1:11:321:11:35

-It's too big?

-But that's all right.

-Blame the pan, that's OK, it's fine!

1:11:351:11:38

-Some cheese?

-Oh, don't worry...

-You've learnt a lot today.

1:11:381:11:40

Don't use the tops of the leeks or use that pan to make an omelette.

1:11:401:11:45

-Voila!

-Voila!

-Bon appetit!

-GONG REVERBERATES

1:11:451:11:47

There you go. APPLAUSE

1:11:471:11:49

Yes, well done. Well done!

1:11:491:11:51

You see, that is a real issue, because, if you basically...

1:11:511:11:54

If you... That omelette, obviously, because it's so hot, the pan, you...

1:11:541:12:00

-I know, chef, that's why it's called the Omelette Challenge.

-But...

1:12:001:12:03

-HE SLAPS HIS BACK, LAUGHTER

-I meant for...

1:12:031:12:05

If someone loses their reputation, they won't come to your show

1:12:051:12:08

-ever again!

-It's a fantastic omelette, I like that.

1:12:081:12:10

-Look how creamy it is. Come on!

-Chef, that is a proper omelette.

1:12:101:12:14

Yeah, I like that.

1:12:141:12:15

But, of course, you cannot do an omelette in 30 seconds.

1:12:151:12:18

-You know that, Adam.

-Of course.

-Yeah, that's rubbish!

1:12:181:12:21

-The flavours...

-What?!

-I'm only joking!

1:12:211:12:23

-Raymond...

-Anyway, well done.

-..how long do you think you did that in?

1:12:231:12:26

Three minutes? Four?

1:12:261:12:28

-Life is too short to go too fast.

-Life's too short to go fast.

1:12:281:12:32

-I like that. I agree.

-That's fast for dinner...

-Raymond?

-..for me.

1:12:321:12:35

If you cannot take four minutes to make a decent omelette,

1:12:351:12:38

-I think life is not worth living.

-Do you know what, though?

1:12:381:12:40

-You actually did it quicker than 1 minute, 40 seconds.

-Oh, my God!

1:12:401:12:44

Even without the truffle. You did it in 1 minute, 30 seconds.

1:12:441:12:48

So, Lesley Waters, I'm afraid, you're at the bottom of our leaderboard.

1:12:481:12:52

Pretty good omelette.

1:12:521:12:53

But Adam...

1:12:531:12:55

-Well, it's not a mess, is it?

-No, it's a lovely omelette.

1:12:551:12:58

-It's an edible omelette, so...

-Absolutely, absolutely.

-..I'm happy.

1:12:581:13:01

Do you think you got on the blue board?

1:13:011:13:03

-I don't... Not really, no.

-No, you didn't, actually. Just...

1:13:041:13:07

You're there, level... with Mr Marcus Wareing,

1:13:071:13:10

at 30 seconds dead.

1:13:101:13:12

-Quite a respectable first go...

-That's good company.

1:13:121:13:15

..on our Omelette Challenge. Congratulations. There you go.

1:13:151:13:17

I'd still buy Raymond's for 50 quid, though.

1:13:191:13:21

Now, I actually never thought I'd say this,

1:13:251:13:27

but you need to keep practising, I'm afraid, Raymond.

1:13:271:13:29

Now, if you're looking for new ideas on how to serve

1:13:291:13:32

some of Britain's best seasonal produce, then Lawrence Keogh

1:13:321:13:34

is the man just for you, cos this next dish is a real winner.

1:13:341:13:39

-It's Lawrence Keogh. Good to have you on the show, boss.

-Thank you.

1:13:391:13:42

Right, what are we cooking? Massively seasonal at the moment.

1:13:421:13:45

-Yeah.

-Three, well, banging seasonal ingredients.

-Yeah.

1:13:451:13:47

-We've got a lovely pheasant.

-Yeah.

-I've chosen the hen one,

1:13:471:13:50

cos, me and you, we like the fatty ones, don't we?

1:13:501:13:52

-It keeps the breast more moist.

-The hen's the girlie one?

1:13:521:13:54

-The hen's the girlie one.

-There you go.

1:13:541:13:56

-And we've got some parsnips...

-Yeah.

1:13:561:13:58

..we've got some chestnuts, butter, brown sugar

1:13:581:14:01

-and some sherry.

-OK.

-We're going to cook all them together.

1:14:011:14:03

-It's a great way of cooking parsnips we'll show you in a minute.

-Absolutely.

1:14:031:14:07

-That you could do for Christmas.

-Really seasonal flavours.

1:14:071:14:09

-I'll take the legs off, actually.

-Yeah.

-I mean, if you want

1:14:091:14:12

to roast these with the legs on, you're more than welcome,

1:14:121:14:16

but we take the legs off and put them into, like, pressed game...

1:14:161:14:19

Now, I mentioned that about ingredients. You really do...

1:14:191:14:22

I mean, you kind of go out of your way sourcing, you know,

1:14:221:14:25

-the very limited ingredients, you know.

-Yeah.

1:14:251:14:28

-The people who are independent suppliers?

-Yeah, little producers.

1:14:281:14:31

Most restaurants really couldn't be bothered with that, really.

1:14:311:14:34

-No, too much hard work.

-Yeah, it's a lot of hard work.

1:14:341:14:36

I'll take the wishbone out for you as well. Basically, you do that...

1:14:361:14:40

-Yeah?

-..put it there and that's the wishbone.

-Yeah.

1:14:401:14:43

-And you can remove it and I always like to remove the wishbone...

-OK.

1:14:431:14:47

..from poultry, so you get a nice, um...

1:14:471:14:50

breast coming off, not wasting meat.

1:14:501:14:52

-So basically that shape?

-There it is.

1:14:521:14:54

-And it's straight down there.

-Yeah.

-Pinch it together.

1:14:541:14:57

-Makes it easier to carve?

-Easier to carve and no wastage.

1:14:571:15:00

It's good to do with your turkeys before Christmas as well.

1:15:001:15:02

-There. When we take the breast off later...

-We can't make a wish now!

1:15:021:15:05

-We can't make a wish now!

-No, you can't!

1:15:051:15:07

Well, if you get it out clean, you can keep it and roast it alongside.

1:15:071:15:10

-Yes. It's important!

-Give it a good season inside and out.

1:15:101:15:13

Yeah, but we do our best to get as much seasonal produce

1:15:131:15:16

on the menu and we go and visit these lovely little producers

1:15:161:15:20

all over the UK with the regional food groups of England.

1:15:201:15:23

-And things like pheasant, I mean, it's so inexpensive.

-Of course it is!

1:15:231:15:27

-Particularly this time of year.

-Cheap as chips!

-The great thing

1:15:271:15:30

-about seasonal ingredients - at its cheapest, really.

-Yeah, exactly!

1:15:301:15:33

-Because they're in the abundance.

-Exactly, you know.

1:15:331:15:36

It's a good tasting bird. It's very popular.

1:15:361:15:39

And how long would you recommend they be hung for?

1:15:391:15:43

I'd say about ten days.

1:15:431:15:45

The way to age them is to hang them by the neck.

1:15:451:15:49

And the way to test if it's ripe or mature enough to eat is you

1:15:491:15:53

pull the tail feather and it should come out easily.

1:15:531:15:55

-The bird's quite good to eat then.

-I didn't know that.

1:15:551:15:59

You don't get that at your local supermarket, do you really?

1:15:591:16:01

Right, OK.

1:16:011:16:02

This is a great way of cooking.

1:16:021:16:04

If you're going to cook things like parsnips this Christmas,

1:16:041:16:08

-they really do taste fantastic.

-And the aromas when you cook...

1:16:081:16:12

I'll give you this recipe, it's a good one.

1:16:121:16:15

LAUGHTER

1:16:151:16:16

We cut the parsnips into nice big chunky batons like this.

1:16:171:16:20

And you can make this the day before.

1:16:201:16:22

Honestly, you must try this before Christmas

1:16:221:16:24

-because the aroma coming off this is so lovely and seasonal.

-Yep.

1:16:241:16:29

You cut all these into batons, get yourself a pan.

1:16:291:16:32

The difficulty with your restaurant as well at the moment is

1:16:321:16:36

-the seasons change so quick, don't they?

-Yeah.

1:16:361:16:38

People think it's going to be boring.

1:16:381:16:39

"Oh, God, January it's all winter veg and carrots and swedes and parsnips."

1:16:391:16:43

But that's the sign of a good cook that can use these basic things.

1:16:431:16:46

You mentioned a good cook because you don't call yourself a chef, do you?

1:16:461:16:49

-You're the head cook.

-We're British. I'm going to pour this sherry in.

1:16:491:16:54

Cover that in sherry, don't be shy with the sherry.

1:16:541:16:57

-What's that, dry sherry?

-Dry sherry.

1:16:571:16:59

Don't need a sweet one cos we're going to add the sugar.

1:16:591:17:02

-They're expensive parsnips.

-I better put me bird in the oven.

1:17:021:17:06

Can you put that bird in the oven?

1:17:061:17:08

Just roll it around.

1:17:081:17:10

The reason why I've taken that part off and left it there,

1:17:101:17:13

it's got its own trivet.

1:17:131:17:15

Cook it on the crown. How long does this go in for?

1:17:151:17:19

We're looking at approximately 10-12 minutes.

1:17:191:17:22

And cook it like poultry, cook it nice and juicy.

1:17:221:17:25

So this is about 420F,

1:17:251:17:27

about 210C.

1:17:271:17:31

Gas, you're looking at about six or eight.

1:17:311:17:33

I've got the parsnips covered in chunks of butter.

1:17:331:17:36

The sherry's in there.

1:17:361:17:38

Brown sugar.

1:17:381:17:40

Give it a little dust of brown sugar.

1:17:401:17:42

That's the thing, I wouldn't use all that butter at home

1:17:421:17:45

and then you go, "It doesn't taste like it does in the restaurant."

1:17:451:17:47

You'd spend about four days in the gym burning it off.

1:17:471:17:50

-I don't go to the gym.

-There's a pinch of salt.

1:17:501:17:53

You can do that in an earthenware dish in the oven with

1:17:531:17:55

a bit of foil on but we're going to rush it through

1:17:551:17:57

so you can see there.

1:17:571:17:58

You're got sherry, parsnips, butter, sugar...

1:17:581:18:04

And it's all going to cook down, reduce down and get sticky

1:18:041:18:07

-and unctuous.

-With the lid on?

-We can put the lid on.

1:18:071:18:10

-Another great seasonal ingredient...

-Chestnuts.

1:18:101:18:13

Now, if you don't like peeling these just pop down to Oxford St

1:18:131:18:15

and get yourself a bag.

1:18:151:18:17

LAUGHTER

1:18:171:18:18

You can buy vacuum-packed peeled ones

1:18:191:18:21

but we've had these in the oven for a while.

1:18:211:18:23

And they just pop out of the shell.

1:18:231:18:25

With the parsnips like that how long are we going to cook that for?

1:18:251:18:28

-Six or eight minutes?

-As long as they're cooked till they're tender.

1:18:281:18:32

So they can cook while the pheasant's in the oven?

1:18:321:18:34

Yeah, pheasant in the oven.

1:18:341:18:36

That's going to be the gravy as well.

1:18:391:18:41

The juices from the parsnip is going to be the gravy.

1:18:411:18:43

-Is it all right to give children it?

-Children it?

1:18:431:18:46

You know, with all the alcohol. I know the alcohol evaporates.

1:18:461:18:48

-You cook the alcohol off.

-Still all right to give them?

1:18:481:18:51

Keep them awake at Christmas. Or fall asleep, one of the two.

1:18:511:18:54

-I haven't got kids, so I don't understand.

-Obviously.

1:18:541:18:57

You cook the alcohol off. You see the flames coming off of there now.

1:18:571:19:01

-There's the alcohol cooking off.

-Whoa! That's the alcohol.

1:19:011:19:04

-Such a waste for the adults.

-You've got the...

1:19:041:19:07

-There's the chestnuts here.

-Lovely. Very good for you.

1:19:071:19:11

You can actually buy these in shops now. You can buy them in tins.

1:19:111:19:15

But when you're buying them, there's sweet ones and savoury ones

1:19:151:19:18

so make sure you get the right ones that say on the tin.

1:19:181:19:20

-Don't get the wrong ones.

-Here's some that are cooked down.

1:19:201:19:24

They're nice and juicy.

1:19:251:19:27

We pop in the chestnuts.

1:19:291:19:31

The smell, I have to say, just from that dish is absolutely delicious.

1:19:311:19:35

You wouldn't leave those al dente, would you?

1:19:351:19:37

-You want those really soft and melting.

-You want them soft.

1:19:371:19:41

Like we were chatting earlier about other veg to do it with.

1:19:411:19:45

Some root vegetable ones and you mentioned maybe Madeira,

1:19:451:19:48

trying it separate.

1:19:481:19:50

-So you can mix it up if you want to.

-Have you got the parsley chopped?

1:19:501:19:53

I've got the parsley chopped. Bit of that in there.

1:19:531:19:56

OK.

1:19:561:19:58

As well as the restaurant and you've got all that going on,

1:19:581:20:01

you've got a DVD coming out, as well.

1:20:011:20:03

-What's this?

-It's not in your league, mate.

1:20:031:20:09

Lawrence's Hot Buns.

1:20:091:20:11

-Hot Buns Lawrence.

-What is it?

1:20:111:20:14

It's a helpful DVD.

1:20:141:20:18

You know I was on dialysis many years ago and had

1:20:181:20:20

a kidney transplant in 2000.

1:20:201:20:22

It's tough for you doing that and cooking in the kitchen.

1:20:221:20:26

I was cooking, working with Marco at the time.

1:20:261:20:28

I just opened one restaurant and went to another one.

1:20:281:20:32

This is Marco Pierre White. I'm throwing spoons.

1:20:321:20:34

That breast, I'm just taking it off. See what I mean about the wishbone?

1:20:341:20:37

We've taken it off there.

1:20:371:20:39

So it just comes down and comes away effortlessly.

1:20:391:20:42

If the wishbone was there I'd be stopping there and chunking.

1:20:421:20:45

-There's no wastage, no meat loss.

-So you're bringing out a DVD.

1:20:451:20:50

A friend of mine, Tony Ward, he's a mountaineer and he was on dialysis.

1:20:501:20:54

A wonderful guy.

1:20:541:20:55

We all agreed there wasn't much help for people on dialysis,

1:20:551:20:58

especially when it comes to food.

1:20:581:21:00

You have certain diet restrictions. So we put it together.

1:21:001:21:05

Bit of watercress, chef. Thank you. It's a helpful DVD...

1:21:061:21:10

It's all to raise money for the charity.

1:21:101:21:13

For all the kidney charities.

1:21:131:21:15

But it's never been done before, so it's to help the patients

1:21:151:21:17

who are on dialysis, who have family problems.

1:21:171:21:20

It's going to be translated into five different languages.

1:21:201:21:24

-Punjabi, Hindu and across Europe, as well.

-He's a star.

1:21:241:21:28

APPLAUSE

1:21:281:21:30

-Remind us what this is.

-Thank you. We've got...

1:21:301:21:32

He hasn't told you he's got a woman's kidney

1:21:321:21:34

and he gets moody once a month.

1:21:341:21:37

-What's this dish?

-Multitasking.

1:21:381:21:42

We've got roast pheasant with glazed sherry parsnips and chestnuts.

1:21:421:21:45

-Please try it.

-Absolutely fantastic.

1:21:451:21:48

It is seriously good, this. Lawrence, come on over here.

1:21:531:21:57

So Christmas-y as well.

1:21:571:22:00

The thing about this is it is the essence of British cooking,

1:22:011:22:04

simplicity, seasonal.

1:22:041:22:06

You almost get excited about the new seasons that are coming through.

1:22:061:22:09

You've got to embrace them.

1:22:091:22:11

If you work with the seasons, they've always been there.

1:22:111:22:14

There's a reason certain foods come into season at times of year

1:22:141:22:16

because you need their nutrients throughout the year.

1:22:161:22:19

-People don't realise that.

-That is gorgeous. Beautiful.

1:22:191:22:22

It's often the case that those ingredients eat quite well

1:22:221:22:27

together flavour-wise.

1:22:271:22:29

Nice textures, nice parsnips.

1:22:291:22:31

Pheasant is one of the most accessible game birds for people.

1:22:321:22:36

If they want to experiment with guinea fowl, could they do that?

1:22:361:22:39

We've done partridge at the restaurant.

1:22:391:22:42

It's lovely with partridge.

1:22:421:22:44

You can do it with a bit of roast chicken if you fancy.

1:22:441:22:46

Do it with turkey at Christmas, it's wonderful with turkey.

1:22:461:22:49

What we do at the restaurant, which is nice,

1:22:491:22:51

is we do creamed Brussels sprouts with nutmeg.

1:22:511:22:54

People hate Brussels sprouts but if you try it with fresh cream,

1:22:541:22:57

reduce down, loads of nutmeg, you'll be converted.

1:22:571:23:00

It's so good, it's not going to come back to me.

1:23:001:23:03

That parsnip recipe has been on my list of favourites ever since.

1:23:081:23:11

It's an exceptional dish.

1:23:111:23:13

I don't think many people would want to turn down a fig

1:23:131:23:16

and chocolate tart, but when Lesley Garrett joined us

1:23:161:23:18

in the studio to face Food Heaven or Food Hell,

1:23:181:23:21

it was pan-fried mackerel with gooseberry sauce that took her fancy.

1:23:211:23:24

Let's find out what she got.

1:23:241:23:26

Time to find out whether I'll be sending Lesley to Food Heaven

1:23:261:23:28

or Food Hell. How do you think the viewers have done?

1:23:281:23:31

-I think they're really going to want this mackerel.

-Really?

1:23:311:23:33

I think your kids were speed texting,

1:23:331:23:35

because what they've done is chosen your version of Food Hell.

1:23:351:23:39

-Oh, really?

-They haven't. Food Heaven. I'm only joking.

1:23:391:23:42

-Great.

-Get that out of the way.

1:23:421:23:44

Mackerel, what you need to do

1:23:441:23:45

when you buy mackerel, buy it with a really bright eye like that.

1:23:451:23:48

Red gills, as fresh as you can. That's the secret with mackerel.

1:23:481:23:52

What I'm going to do is...

1:23:521:23:54

fillet this first. Remove the fillets off the mackerel.

1:23:541:23:58

Insert the knife underneath. We can slide that underneath there.

1:23:581:24:01

-Fantastic.

-Simple as that.

1:24:011:24:03

What I'm going to do with this is just take a little bit of

1:24:031:24:06

olive oil... Pass me some olive oil from over there.

1:24:061:24:08

-That one?

-Yep, thank you.

-How fresh is that?

1:24:081:24:12

Little bit of olive oil over there.

1:24:121:24:13

The secret with mackerel, don't know what you guys think,

1:24:131:24:16

it's the simplicity with which you cook it. Don't know about you.

1:24:161:24:19

-Less is more.

-Less is more. Got to be absolutely fresh.

1:24:191:24:22

Really, really fresh.

1:24:221:24:23

What I'm going to do is take a bit of mustard. You can do that.

1:24:231:24:28

You can fillet a fish.

1:24:281:24:30

He'll do better at that than he will do at omelettes, don't worry.

1:24:301:24:35

-Don't hurt yourself.

-Is this Dijon mustard? What have we got here?

1:24:351:24:39

This is a little bit of mustard. I just need a pastry brush.

1:24:391:24:43

-John's mixing together a nice little dressing.

-Lovely.

1:24:431:24:46

Take a touch of mustard over the top.

1:24:461:24:48

Because things like curry, mustard, horseradish,

1:24:481:24:51

those spicy things go particularly well with mackerel.

1:24:511:24:55

Quite hot and spicy.

1:24:551:24:56

-Bit of salt.

-It's quite a strong flavour.

1:24:561:24:59

This goes straight under the grill. Touch of butter.

1:24:591:25:01

-Where's my butter gone?

-You and your butter, honestly.

1:25:011:25:03

There you go. There's a little bit of Dijon mustard over here.

1:25:031:25:06

-It was Dijon, I thought so.

-Straight underneath the grill.

-Hot grill?

1:25:061:25:10

Hot, hot grill. This literally takes three to four minutes to cook.

1:25:101:25:14

No more than that.

1:25:141:25:15

-For our sauce, which we've got in here... How we doing, boys?

-Yep.

1:25:151:25:18

He's doing that. We've got our gooseberries.

1:25:181:25:21

I don't know why it is, but northern people, like us, love gooseberries.

1:25:211:25:27

-We do, don't we?

-Sharpness of flavour, but...

1:25:271:25:29

We also just grow them.

1:25:291:25:31

Our grandparents had a bush in the garden.

1:25:311:25:33

They're delicious, aren't they? Chutney or stuff like that.

1:25:331:25:36

-Chutney would go very well with mackerel.

-Right.

1:25:361:25:38

Mackerel of course rich in omega-3, oily fish,

1:25:381:25:40

but particularly good with the sharpness of the berries.

1:25:401:25:43

Also works really well with another Yorkshire ingredient, rhubarb.

1:25:431:25:47

-Oh?

-I don't know about you guys.

1:25:471:25:49

-I love rhubarb.

-Rhubarb with mackerel.

1:25:491:25:52

An unusual combination. Sugar, just a touch of sugar.

1:25:521:25:55

-We don't want too much.

-I like sugar, go on.

1:25:551:25:57

That's what I love about mackerel,

1:25:571:25:59

because it's such a strong fish, it can take rhubarb or gooseberries.

1:25:591:26:02

It takes rhubarb, gooseberries, chutneys, all sorts of stuff.

1:26:021:26:05

And then some double cream.

1:26:051:26:07

This is heaven for me because I'm not allowed dairy produce at all.

1:26:071:26:10

-It's so bad...

-SMASHING

1:26:101:26:12

-Hello, smashing time over there.

-Particularly cream?

1:26:121:26:14

Particularly cream, because it's really bad for the voice.

1:26:141:26:17

It creates lots of goopy mucus.

1:26:171:26:18

If I can't sing this afternoon or this evening,

1:26:181:26:21

if I can't climb my mountain, it's all your fault.

1:26:211:26:24

-Really? That's what cream does?

-Yeah, absolutely.

1:26:241:26:26

-And butter and all those dairy things.

-You could use creme fraiche.

1:26:261:26:30

-Nothing like that?

-No, not really.

1:26:301:26:32

-A little bit maybe.

-Just for today.

-I'll make an exception.

1:26:321:26:35

You could use creme fraiche if you wanted to.

1:26:351:26:37

Stew that down, place a lid on it and stew it down quite carefully.

1:26:371:26:40

-We've got one that's been stewing away nicely over here.

-Look at this.

1:26:401:26:43

Just do it so it breaks down the gooseberries.

1:26:431:26:46

So they're still recognisable as gooseberries.

1:26:461:26:49

Just plunk those on there.

1:26:491:26:50

-If you could drain off my potatoes, guys, that would be great.

-Yep.

1:26:501:26:53

Just going to take my gooseberry and cream sauce like that.

1:26:531:26:57

Nice and simple. Borrow the cloth.

1:26:571:27:00

We've got our mackerel which should be about there. Yes.

1:27:001:27:04

-Nice hot grill, this mackerel.

-Just did it on one side, did you?

1:27:041:27:07

-Always cook it on one side.

-Skin side?

1:27:071:27:09

When you're doing grilled fish only do it on one side.

1:27:091:27:12

-Just a little bit of lemon over the top.

-Ah!

1:27:141:27:19

That's the thing about mackerel. Simply cooked on the barbeque.

1:27:191:27:22

-Just simple, cook it on one side.

-So pretty, as well.

1:27:221:27:26

Keep the skin on so it protects the flesh underneath.

1:27:261:27:29

-Place that on the top.

-You make it look so lovely.

1:27:311:27:33

Then just a couple of new potatoes...

1:27:331:27:35

..on the side. I like new potatoes with mackerel.

1:27:371:27:39

I don't know about you, but I don't think it needs any more veg.

1:27:391:27:42

-It's quite an oily fish.

-Just soaks in the oil.

1:27:421:27:45

-Do you use it a lot in the restaurant?

-Loads, yeah.

1:27:451:27:48

Lunch menu, fantastic.

1:27:481:27:50

-You're supposed to serve the lady first.

-He's doing it for me.

1:27:521:27:56

Watch the bones. It is cooked. It's just nice and simple.

1:27:561:28:00

Delicious.

1:28:011:28:04

Glad you enjoyed it, Lesley, despite the cream.

1:28:061:28:08

That's all we've got time for on today's Best Bites.

1:28:081:28:10

If you'd like to try to cook

1:28:101:28:12

any of the fabulous food you've seen on today's programme,

1:28:121:28:14

you can find all the studio recipes on our website.

1:28:141:28:16

Just go to bbc.co.uk/recipes

1:28:161:28:19

There are loads of tempting dishes on there for you to choose from.

1:28:191:28:22

So have a great week and I'll see you very soon. Bye for now.

1:28:221:28:26

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