22/11/2015 Saturday Kitchen Best Bites


22/11/2015

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Good morning. A whole host of fantastic foodie offerings awaits,

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from some of the best chefs around.

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This is Saturday Kitchen Best Bites.

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Welcome to the show.

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The next 90 minutes is jam-packed with fine food, top chefs

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and sprinklings of much-loved celebrities.

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So, put your feet up and get comfy.

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Coming up on today's show...

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Tristan Welch serves a sensational salt marsh lamb with sea herbs.

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Michael Caines gives us a taste of the sea with his spectacular

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pan-roast monkfish and mussel masterpiece.

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The monkfish is flavoured with curry powder,

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and the mussels are cooked in a tarragon and mustard sauce.

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Jason Atherton shows us how to cook onglet of beef,

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which he serves with spiced pumpkin jam and confit potatoes.

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The potatoes are cooked in a beef fat

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and the dish is served with a wonderful wild mushroom sauce.

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And Michelle Ryan faces her Food Heaven or Food Hell.

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Would she get her Food Heaven?

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A white chocolate bourbon and raspberry cheesecake.

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Or would she get her dreaded Food Hell?

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Singapore chilli crab with egg fried rice.

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But first, Richard Corrigan warmed things up by bringing some

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Spanish sunshine to the plate with his dish of stuffed baby squid

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with chorizo and feta.

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It's taken me two years to get you on the show.

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I've finally got you on the show.

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What are you cooking?

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-Stuffed squid with some organic feta and chorizo.

-Yes.

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It's a nice Spanish feel.

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There's a whole Spanish movement going on right now,

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but, believe it or not, we've known of these ingredients,

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over the last 20 years. I've been cooking them.

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When Brindisa opened up in London,

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we were probably the first restaurant to buy her stuff in.

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Manchego selection, DePrado olive oils, all of the sausage.

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This was one of the first restaurants you became head chef at?

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Yeah, Stephen Bull's, Blandford Street.

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Minimalist design. Anyway....

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-What I'm going to do, I'm just going to take a pan.

-Yeah.

-Take some...

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I always say... By the way, this is an old mother's trick.

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Every time we made fresh sausages, we always blanched them off

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-and kept them in the outhouse, cos they always lasted longer.

-Right.

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-But also, it gets rid of the excess fat...

-OK.

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..from the sausages. So, they go on there. So, we cook them up there.

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You bring them to boil, and cook them for how long?

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Just around ten minutes, no longer. Just leave them in the hot water.

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-We've got some over here, which I'll show you.

-We have.

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-Which have cooled down. You can see the amount of fat.

-So, it gets rid of all the fat from them.

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Just sat on top, there's quite a lot of that on there. There you go. Left to one side.

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James, what you can do is just take the bottom.

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-Take them up and cut them into nice little pieces.

-Blanch the...

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And give them a nice blanch in the salted water.

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So, this is the squid. Just take the tentacle off.

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Now, amazing career for you as a chef. Where did it all start for you?

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I think it all started really on the farm, just watching my mother.

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I was no more than this high,

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-watching my mother just kneading bread.

-Yeah.

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And then I went off on my travels at 17 to Amsterdam, Rotterdam.

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Worked in a lot of Michelin-starred restaurants.

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Came back to London on the eve of the Great Storm,

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-which I think next Friday is the anniversary.

-Right.

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The Great Storm in '87.

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And just worked in Knightsbridge, Meridien Oak Room,

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went to work for Stephen Bull down in Blandford street,

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a very smart architect restaurant.

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Very modern food.

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North African, Spanish.

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And we were doing that then, 20 years ago.

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You know, Times Restaurant Of The Year...

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Got a bit browned off with it all.

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But I mentioned Bentley's in particular, cos that fascinates me.

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-Cos you worked there.

-Yeah, 20 years ago, I worked there.

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It was owned by Boddingtons of Manchester at the time.

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And then you had the opportunity to buy it recently?

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Three and a half years ago.

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I got a phone call from someone saying it was up for sale.

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Basically, we looked at it and I thought, "Oh, my God. This is a big challenge."

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But, having worked there before, I just felt we could...

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You know, a real return to glory thing. You know what I mean?

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But what is it about it?

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Cos it's one of those restaurants that's kind of hidden away.

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-I suppose, a bit like Langham's, in a way.

-Yeah.

-But it's...

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It's there since 1916.

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-Yeah.

-It's, it's...

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It's incredible.

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I mean, the glorious customers of past,

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Charlie Chaplin, Alfred Hitchcock. I mean, the Churchill family!

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It's quite extraordinary.

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And to just get your hands on it, and not to wreck it...

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It's not about the chefs you've got, it's about great food,

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great, simple seafood, in a really buzzing environment.

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You know, it's a tavern.

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A London oyster tavern with Great British oysters on the menu.

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I mean, you mentioned oysters,

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I believe you're one of the biggest buyers of oysters?

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There's no question about it.

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We do.

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I mean, I think when Mark... Before Mark opened...

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In the book, Mark, there's a lovely story about when you opened Scott's.

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-Did you buy one?

-Yeah, this is my book!

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I'm reading it now.

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THEY LAUGH

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There's a lovely story about when Mark was opening Scott's.

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Basically, I bought up all the number two oysters in Colchester

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so he couldn't get his hands on them.

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THEY LAUGH

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But, I mean, how did you do a week?

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-Up to 10,000.

-10,000 oysters?

-Yeah, 10,000.

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And they're not opened by chefs,

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they're opened by the oyster bar men.

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That's what makes them very special.

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But it's a great place, cos you can go there and have sort of a...

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It's what I call grazing. You can have upstairs, formal dining.

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Go in there and have a soup. It's literally...

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You can have a soup upstairs as well. You know what, this is just...

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Nice cheese, by the way.

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-This is feta cheese.

-This is the feta cheese, organic feta cheese.

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There's enough there, I don't need any more.

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-Then, the sausages, we bring them over.

-Bring them over, there you go.

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-If anybody's into oysters, they're bang in season at the moment.

-Oh, yeah. The native oysters.

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-First of October to December, perfect, perfect, perfect.

-OK.

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-Now, the old chorizo.

-James, would you get me a piping bag, would you?

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I can get you a piping bag, yeah. OK.

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What I need to do, I'm just going to open the chorizo.

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Just to...

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-Just break up... Break it all up.

-Yeah.

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And you know what, it's a really good idea getting rid of the excess fat.

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It's just, you know, it's great.

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There's so much flavour in chorizo, as well, isn't there?

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You have the flavour, just without the...

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So, I mentioned both restaurants, because you've got Bentley's and...

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-Lindsay House.

-Lindsay House, as well.

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Lindsay House comes to an end next September and the lease is up.

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So, basically, in conjunction with that, we're opening Corrigan's, opens in Mayfair in November.

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-So, you're having two in central London?

-Yeah, it will be.

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It'll be near the, the...

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Bentley's is informal. Delicious.

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Corrigan's would be a little bit more, you know...

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-A little bit more formal?

-Yeah, yeah.

-OK, there we go.

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Good, get this in here.

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-So, this is, literally, just the chorizo...

-No more.

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-The chorizo...

-And the feta.

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You don't need any seasoning, because it's quite salty.

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OK, there we go.

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And then we've got our squid here.

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The way feta came about was,

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initially, we got a cheese from the Pyrenees.

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It was barrel fermented.

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Sheep's cheese, which was very much like feta,

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hence the name "the squid with the stuffed feta".

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-You know what I mean? It was delicious. That's so good.

-OK.

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-Are you ready?

-I'm ready. This is where we...

-Can you do the...?

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This is where, in rehearsal, if you were watching earlier,

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this is where it turns into a disaster.

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Right, James. Right. OK. Is it in?

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-Yeah.

-It's in!

-Are you sure?

-LAUGHTER

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That's working really good, yes. Do you want to put another one, yes.

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If my mother's just turned on, I do apologise.

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Do you want to fold it back just a little bit? Come on.

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-Just put it in there. Oh, whoa!

-Come on, James, please!

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Go on.

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-More, more, more.

-Go on.

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THEY LAUGH

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-How many of these do you want?

-I need five of them, yeah. Come on.

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We're nearly there. Bit more.

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You need a bit more in there.

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Go on.

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-OK?

-We'll do one each. Just fill it by hand, the last one.

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If you haven't got a piping bag, you can fill it by hand.

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It's much easier.

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But the whole thing about this, it's so delicious, so simple.

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Just flatten it down a small bit.

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Because the stuffing's cooked, you just need to flash fry the chorizo.

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-OK. They're going to go in, as well.

-Yep.

-We got there in the end.

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It's better than it was in rehearsal, as well.

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I was kind of just judging you, see what you're like.

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-I'll give it... OK. Yes.

-So, you've got the tentacles in, as well?

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Yeah, the tentacles are in there.

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Nice bit of olive oil. I needed just half a lemon, James.

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Half a lemon, OK. No problem.

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There you go, sir.

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Now, we've got a sink in the back if you want to wash your hands.

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There you go. I'll sort out your fennel.

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Entire time cleaning up. There we go.

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So, like you said, it's already cooked.

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Somebody could make these at home nice and easy.

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-Oh, this is really, really easy.

-Yeah, OK.

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What you could do now is just get me a bowl, James, for the fennel.

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-I'm there.

-Lovely. Here we are.

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-A squeeze of olive oil.

-Olive oil.

-Little bit of pepper, olive oil.

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-Here we go.

-There you go.

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With the lemon.

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The thing about squid is literally just fast-cooking it, really.

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-Or for a long time, or...?

-No, flash fried, flash fried.

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But it doesn't want to be cooked in the middle?

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-No, no, no, otherwise it gets very tough.

-Yeah, OK.

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-There you go.

-And then we get the tentacles,

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and we just put them in and spread them out in the pan.

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There you go.

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-Nice and easy.

-How are we for time?

-We're all right, we're all right.

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-Good.

-There you go. I've got these, as well.

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This is a nice little salad with the fennel and the parsley.

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-Fennel, olive oil, lemon juice, parsley.

-Bit of black pepper.

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You don't have parsley.

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Bit of the fennel top, there's more fennel top on that.

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-I just wouldn't bother, you know?

-All right.

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Bit of the lemon juice.

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-There you go.

-Nice and swift, you see.

-Bit of that.

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Literally straight in.

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And then... Now, where do you get your inspiration from?

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-Cos, I mean, the menu's...

-I read an awful lot. I think...

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-The menu's huge, as well, isn't it?

-The menu's very big, yes.

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I just think because, you know, when you start talking about seafood,

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there's so much to bring in.

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The clams, the oysters, the mussels, the whelks, lobsters, crabs.

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But, you know what, Bentley's sums it up.

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A dressed crab, home-made brown bread

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from the bakery in the basement.

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-That sums us up.

-That's what it's all about.

-Really.

-There you go.

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But you enjoy reading the old recipe books, as well?

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-I don't think any one of us is a genius, that's for sure.

-OK.

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OK, there you go. Bit of a squeeze of lemon in there.

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And if a little bit of stuffing comes out, don't worry.

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So, this is what we've been waiting for. Two years, and we've got him.

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This is what it's all about.

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And if you're lucky enough to go to one of these restaurants, try it,

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because it's literally just...

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And I think, really, just simple, it's nice, it's delicious

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and, by the way, if you didn't want a chorizo, you could always

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stuff it with like a paella mixture

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without any meat on it, so...

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And better still, if you've got the ingredients, try it at home.

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Yeah, this is just...

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-There you go, James.

-Lovely. Remind us what that is again.

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That's stuffed squid with organic feta, chorizo

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and the fennel salad.

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-So, it's just light, delicious...

-Easy as that - done.

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Right, over here, there we go.

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Come on over here, Richard, have a seat.

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Dish number three, there you go. Dive in.

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-This looks...

-Tell us what you think?

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Presentation, I think, is absolutely wonderful.

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-It smells delicious.

-Yeah.

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-Oh...

-Great, isn't it?

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-That is divine.

-Divine? Pass it down.

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The girls are going, "Pass it down, pass it down."

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-That is absolutely gorgeous.

-Dive in.

-We're hungry.

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Every time I've tried to cook squid at home

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it always comes out as tough as old leather boots.

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Just stir-fry it, that's the key to it,

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otherwise it gets so tough...

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But day-boat squid that's landed at the moment, that's coming in...

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I mean, the local, coastal British squid is fantastic.

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-Exactly.

-It really is.

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And despite what you just saw, stuffing squid isn't that difficult.

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Give it a try if you can.

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Just remember not to overcook it, that's the key.

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Coming up, I cook a fabulous rib-eye steak with deep-fried onion rings

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for Elaine Paige, after Rick Stein takes us on an Irish adventure.

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He's got smoked eel on the menu today.

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It's raining, but that's no surprise.

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The 40 shades of green.

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It's what makes Ireland what it is, and keeps it rich and lush,

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and it's great for the cattle, great for the butter

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and great for the cheese.

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Now, I'm going to see a man called Ken Buggy.

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Ken is a living legend.

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People's eyes light up at the very mention of his name.

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He runs rather an eccentric bed and breakfast - it's a delight.

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BELL RINGS

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But I wish I hadn't forgotten his name.

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-Hello.

-Hello, are you Frank?

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Pardon? No, are you Ted?

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THEY CHUCKLE

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Wow!

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-Right, a pint of Guinness?

-Yeah, definitely. After you.

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Basically, we're on a quest around Ireland

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trying to find good food producers but also nice places to stay

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and nice restaurants and everybody keeps talking about you.

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Oh, that's good. Are they all with you?

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The reason I've come to see Ken is for his famous soda bread

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but moreso for the idiosyncratic way he makes it.

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It's such fun.

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It's quick and doesn't require a lot of time, or precise measurements.

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And I'm going to put three cups...

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One of the things I've suddenly thought about soda bread,

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you don't have to get up at two o'clock in the morning to make it.

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No, but for instance, recently,

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I had some friends from across the water.

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-From the water?

-They were staying

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and I said to them just as they were retiring,

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"What time would you like breakfast at?"

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The wife turned to her husband, her partner and said,

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-MIMICS AMERICAN ACCENT:

-"Honey, what time do we want breakfast

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"at in the morning?"

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And he said, "I guess, we'll have a lie-in."

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So, I was looking from one to the other

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and kind of leaning towards the ten o'clock thing, you see,

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and she said, "Yeah, Ken," or Kenny, sometimes they get homely

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and personal and they add on a little nickname to you.

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"Kenny, we'll have a lie-in, so 7am, 7.15am is all right for us."

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And she didn't spot my mouth opening in horror

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and I was wondering, perhaps, if they wanted an earlier breakfast

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they might have had it at four.

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I was going to say something like that.

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They probably would have said, "No, seven's fine."

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RICK LAUGHS

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-So, there we go. Then we pick up our little strainer.

-Yeah.

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Our teaspoon.

0:14:210:14:23

And I'm going to put into this some bicarbonate of soda.

0:14:230:14:26

Now the reason I'm using this strainer is

0:14:260:14:29

this bicarbonate of soda tends to have little lumps in it.

0:14:290:14:34

Right.

0:14:340:14:35

We put that aside and the teaspoon aside

0:14:350:14:37

and we shake it like this.

0:14:370:14:40

Or, you could do it like that.

0:14:400:14:41

We do it like this. Now...

0:14:410:14:44

-You will notice there are lumps here.

-Yeah.

0:14:440:14:46

These are the lumpy bits of the bicarbonate of soda

0:14:460:14:48

and I'm going to leave those aside there

0:14:480:14:51

because I'll tell you why in a minute.

0:14:510:14:53

We just give this a little stir.

0:14:530:14:55

-And suddenly, the phone rings.

-Yeah.

0:14:560:14:59

And I stop and I go and answer the telephone and I come back

0:15:000:15:03

and the first thing I think of is,

0:15:030:15:04

"Oh, dear, did I put the bicarbonate of soda in?"

0:15:040:15:07

And I look and I see, "Oh, yes, I must have."

0:15:070:15:09

This is a recipe for me.

0:15:090:15:11

I'm as forgetful as that.

0:15:110:15:13

There's no question, this is my recipe.

0:15:130:15:16

That's why I leave that there.

0:15:160:15:18

-Now, we get the buttermilk.

-Right.

0:15:180:15:21

I get the buttermilk from the maidens at the crossroads.

0:15:210:15:25

Nowadays, you don't have any of those in England any more.

0:15:250:15:29

No, no crossroads, it's all motorway now, isn't it?

0:15:290:15:32

So, mix it all up.

0:15:320:15:35

Yeah, in Ireland we have maidens at the crossroads.

0:15:370:15:40

-Wonderful.

-A Catholic country.

0:15:400:15:42

-They've got rosy red cheeks and...

-Oh, you've seen them!

0:15:440:15:47

Oh, you devil!

0:15:470:15:49

What's with the cross there, then?

0:15:520:15:54

-This is to ensure even baking.

-Right.

0:15:540:15:58

Erm, so that if you left it out, it would even bake itself.

0:15:580:16:02

No, no...

0:16:030:16:05

It's to ensure that each little bit cooks the same amount - evenly.

0:16:050:16:11

It looks nice, too.

0:16:110:16:13

Some people put a little twiddly thing in the middle, like that.

0:16:130:16:17

-Right, so into the oven, we pop it.

-Right.

0:16:170:16:20

Then we all go and have a pint of Guinness.

0:16:210:16:24

He was just like a one-off, really.

0:16:240:16:27

I mean, he's one of those people you meet rarely in your life.

0:16:270:16:30

You know, such a nice man with such a playful sense of humour.

0:16:300:16:34

Actually, at the end of all this sort of fun,

0:16:340:16:37

he produced a lovely soda bread.

0:16:370:16:40

Well, it looks very nice.

0:16:410:16:43

"Mmm, yummy(!)" he says.

0:16:450:16:47

What? You don't believe I like it?

0:16:470:16:50

No, it is yummy. It's extremely yummy.

0:16:500:16:52

-It's lovely and crunchy.

-Is it?

0:16:520:16:54

It really is. It's good flour.

0:16:540:16:56

I must have done something wrong.

0:16:560:16:58

That's 4.50.

0:16:580:17:00

-They're organic.

-Thank you very much.

-That's 2.50.

0:17:050:17:07

Well, I've been to this farmers' market here in Midleton

0:17:070:17:10

quite a few times before and it seems to me

0:17:100:17:12

to be a model farmers' market.

0:17:120:17:15

It's small but perfectly formed

0:17:150:17:17

and such a high proportion of the stuff being sold here

0:17:170:17:20

is local.

0:17:200:17:22

The other thing that I really like about it,

0:17:220:17:25

is the fact that the stands are all very attractive.

0:17:250:17:28

I think one of the problems with some farmers' markets,

0:17:280:17:30

you go there and you've got lots of polythene bags with produce in them

0:17:300:17:34

but here there's lots of flair, lots of understanding

0:17:340:17:37

that you've got to sell things.

0:17:370:17:39

I know quite a few of the traders here

0:17:390:17:42

and there's a real sense of community about it

0:17:420:17:45

and after they've finished at the market, they all go and have lunch

0:17:450:17:49

at a local cafe and eat lovely bowls of steaming Irish stew

0:17:490:17:53

and it's all very organic and whole,

0:17:530:17:56

and very exciting, I think.

0:17:560:17:59

I have to say, Declan, I couldn't think of a more attractive

0:18:040:18:07

display of bread than that. It's just like lovely.

0:18:070:18:10

Well, it's indulging a hobby.

0:18:100:18:14

I love making bread.

0:18:140:18:16

I'm having great fun.

0:18:160:18:18

My grandfather was obsessional about bread-making

0:18:180:18:21

and he owned the bit of land he lived on in Dunmanway in west Cork.

0:18:210:18:24

And he used to bring...

0:18:240:18:27

When I was a child, I used to go with him to the local mill

0:18:270:18:31

with a bag of wheat from his own field and have it milled,

0:18:310:18:36

take it back and that's what we used to make the bread.

0:18:360:18:40

-So, you've never tasted better?

-Oh!

0:18:400:18:44

What I've noticed over the last few years with markets

0:18:440:18:46

is that you have maybe three types of markets.

0:18:460:18:48

You have browsing markets,

0:18:480:18:50

you have shopping markets

0:18:500:18:52

and you have lifestyle markets.

0:18:520:18:53

Midleton works because it's a mixture of lifestyle and shopping.

0:18:530:18:57

Also, because Midleton is such a smashing town,

0:18:570:19:00

the people are terribly loyal.

0:19:000:19:02

They stay in town, they buy in town

0:19:020:19:04

and the market adds to that because it keeps them in town.

0:19:040:19:07

What is a lifestyle market?

0:19:070:19:09

Lifestyle markets are a lot of cappuccino and frappuccino

0:19:090:19:13

and mochas and crepes.

0:19:130:19:15

That's why people are coming in and they want to be seen in there

0:19:150:19:19

and they're buying bits and pieces.

0:19:190:19:21

Lifestyle markets tend to happen on Sundays.

0:19:210:19:23

People don't go shopping for food on Sundays,

0:19:230:19:26

they go shopping for food Thursday, Friday, Saturday.

0:19:260:19:28

Sundays is when they're browsing around,

0:19:280:19:31

picking up a bit of this, a bit of that.

0:19:310:19:33

They have their place but they're not what producers really need.

0:19:330:19:37

Frank Hederman's stall is a jewel with every sort of smoked fish

0:19:370:19:41

you could think of, from hot or cold smoked salmon

0:19:410:19:44

to mackerel and even shellfish.

0:19:440:19:47

The secret with eel...

0:19:470:19:49

But the most exciting was the whole eels.

0:19:490:19:52

When I visited him a couple of years ago,

0:19:520:19:55

he showed me how to deal with a whole, smoked silver eel

0:19:550:19:58

which was utterly delicious.

0:19:580:20:00

And slice it very thinly

0:20:000:20:02

across the surface of the fish.

0:20:020:20:04

He peeled it like a banana and then took the thinnest of slices

0:20:040:20:08

off the fillet and it makes a brilliant first course.

0:20:080:20:12

Now, look at that smoked eel, lovely and moist with fat,

0:20:120:20:16

which all good smoked eels should have.

0:20:160:20:19

I bought it from Frank Hederman in Midleton market

0:20:190:20:23

and Frank is born to smoke things

0:20:230:20:25

but nothing more so than eel.

0:20:250:20:28

Do you know what, I think talking to Frank,

0:20:280:20:30

if you can't talk eel you can't talk about anything else with him

0:20:300:20:34

because after you start getting into the eel you can talk

0:20:340:20:38

about love and life and philosophy and the universe and everything.

0:20:380:20:43

But if you can't talk eel, don't bother.

0:20:430:20:46

RICK CHUCKLES

0:20:460:20:48

I know I've said this before but filleting things on camera is

0:20:500:20:54

very scary because if anything can go wrong, it certainly will.

0:20:540:20:58

But I think Frank will be quite proud of me this time.

0:20:580:21:02

It's coming off very cleanly and this is for a really good recipe.

0:21:020:21:06

Seriously, I like eel either just with horseradish

0:21:060:21:10

or in a salad with potato and crispy bacon.

0:21:100:21:13

It's lovely.

0:21:130:21:15

Just cut right down the middle of the fillet,

0:21:150:21:18

cut it into two thinner fillets

0:21:180:21:21

and then just cut them about that long,

0:21:210:21:24

to go in the salad.

0:21:240:21:26

Well, this is Ramsay's bacon from Ayrshire

0:21:270:21:30

and you can see, very easily,

0:21:300:21:32

that there's absolutely no moisture

0:21:320:21:35

coming out of that bacon at all.

0:21:350:21:37

Really, it's a litmus test of those that we want to film

0:21:370:21:41

in Food Heroes and those that we don't -

0:21:410:21:43

those that have no moisture in their bacon and those that have lots.

0:21:430:21:47

Of course, the one bacon that has lots is done so

0:21:470:21:51

so that there's more weight in the bacon

0:21:510:21:53

and you're paying for water, essentially,

0:21:530:21:56

and also for that horrible, white gunk

0:21:560:21:59

that comes out of the bacon when you're frying it.

0:21:590:22:02

The potatoes are new.

0:22:040:22:06

It's best to use a waxy variety so they hold their shape

0:22:060:22:09

when you cut them up.

0:22:090:22:11

And now for the dressing,

0:22:110:22:12

first of all, a handful of flat leaf parsley

0:22:120:22:15

which I reckon should end up as about a tablespoon of parsley.

0:22:150:22:19

That goes in there.

0:22:190:22:21

Horseradish really does go well with smoked fish.

0:22:210:22:25

I mean, we know it goes well with smoked mackerel, but smoked eel,

0:22:250:22:27

as well. Now, some vinegar, just about a teaspoon or so.

0:22:270:22:31

And some cream, about a tablespoon, a bit more perhaps?

0:22:310:22:34

Some caster sugar, a good, big pinch

0:22:340:22:37

and some salt, a similar good, big pinch.

0:22:370:22:41

Just whisk that up and that's it.

0:22:410:22:43

Put the potatoes into a bowl and turn them over with the dressing.

0:22:450:22:48

This is the sort of fancy food I do like to find in Ireland.

0:22:480:22:51

Very Irish, too, with the eel and the potatoes.

0:22:510:22:55

I spoon that onto the salad leaves - lamb's lettuce, watercress,

0:22:550:22:59

sorrel and rocket - and then four or five fillets of eel.

0:22:590:23:03

Finally, the crispy bacon

0:23:030:23:04

which just gives it a great textual finish to the dish.

0:23:040:23:08

A sprinkle of chives and, of course, a glass of stout.

0:23:080:23:12

See, that eel looked delicious until he put the horseradish with it.

0:23:160:23:20

I'm a big fan of eel myself. I know it's not everybody's cup of tea

0:23:200:23:23

-I have to say. Eel, do you like eel?

-Are you kidding me?

0:23:230:23:26

I went to China once

0:23:260:23:28

and I can remember being offered dancing eel, or something.

0:23:280:23:32

-No drunken eel.

-Dancing eel?

-No, drunken shrimp or drunken eel.

0:23:320:23:36

It was disgusting. It was all moving around in the dish.

0:23:360:23:39

-I mean, it was, like, alive.

-You've got steak and onion rings here.

0:23:390:23:43

-That's much more appealing.

-How do you like your steak?

-Medium-to-well.

0:23:430:23:46

-Medium-to-well?

-I don't like it too bloody.

0:23:460:23:48

I've got to get it on, then, first of all.

0:23:480:23:50

We get this on a nice, hot pan.

0:23:500:23:52

-Tom's panicking.

-Hit it, James. Bash it out.

0:23:520:23:56

We've got a bit of oil in here.

0:23:560:23:58

I'm going to pan-fry this one for the boys there and a girl over there.

0:23:580:24:01

-Is that olive oil?

-This is a little bit of olive oil, yeah.

0:24:010:24:04

Beef's going to go in.

0:24:040:24:06

I'm going to colour that nicely and I'm going to do these onion rings

0:24:060:24:09

to go with this with a little onion butter. This is...

0:24:090:24:11

I go on my travels, you see, not as glamorous as you,

0:24:110:24:14

New Zealand and all this sort of stuff.

0:24:140:24:16

Glasgow, that's where I went last week.

0:24:160:24:19

Fantastic Glasgow!

0:24:190:24:20

I met this guy here.

0:24:200:24:22

He brought me something last year, this is Jack Trotter,

0:24:220:24:25

aged 11 from Kelsey in Cumbria.

0:24:250:24:27

This is your onion, Jack Trotter,

0:24:270:24:29

who's a big gardening fanatic

0:24:290:24:31

and I'm going to use your onion, mate.

0:24:310:24:33

It's a large onion, darling.

0:24:330:24:35

I was going to call it a shallot butter but we will do

0:24:350:24:38

deep-fried onion rings with this one.

0:24:380:24:40

We'll do the onion rings quite big

0:24:400:24:41

and we'll do that with an onion and red wine butter to go with it.

0:24:410:24:46

-Look at the size of that!

-It's huge.

0:24:460:24:49

12 years old and he grew that onion, it's fantastic, isn't it?

0:24:490:24:52

Now, on with you, Elaine.

0:24:520:24:54

-While I'm cooking my bit of steak there.

-Yeah.

0:24:540:24:57

-Medium-to-well?

-Yes, please.

0:24:570:25:00

1964 was the first time you started on the...

0:25:000:25:03

That's mean of you, I think.

0:25:030:25:06

I was a child. I was just a child.

0:25:060:25:09

But an unbelievable career from 1964.

0:25:090:25:12

-You were 16, then?

-Yeah, probably.

0:25:120:25:15

What was it was like appearing on the stage for the first time?

0:25:150:25:18

It was wonderful, it was so magical.

0:25:180:25:20

I can remember walking into the theatre.

0:25:200:25:23

We used to rehearse in the theatre in this show called

0:25:230:25:25

The Roar Of The Greasepaint - The Smell Of The Crowd

0:25:250:25:28

and we actually rehearsed on the stage

0:25:280:25:30

and I can remember the atmosphere in the theatre

0:25:300:25:33

when there was nobody in there, when it was quiet and no audience.

0:25:330:25:37

It was just magical. And then, when the audience come in,

0:25:370:25:40

you can't believe it because the whole place changes completely

0:25:400:25:44

and, you know, turns into...

0:25:440:25:45

-Do you still get that buzz even after...

-Yes, I think so.

0:25:450:25:48

-You still get the same thing?

-Absolutely!

0:25:480:25:51

I mean, you know, if you're in this crazy business,

0:25:510:25:53

I think that it gets into your bones, as it were.

0:25:530:25:57

-You know what I mean?

-Yeah.

0:25:570:25:59

It is a bit like a drug, you can't live without it.

0:25:590:26:01

I can't imagine not doing it.

0:26:010:26:03

Of course, the West End, you did Hair, Jesus Christ Superstar

0:26:030:26:07

but it was really... Would you say Evita was the one that...?

0:26:070:26:10

That was the one that changed everything for me. Sure, it was.

0:26:100:26:13

It turned my life upside down and gave me a career, really, in musical theatre.

0:26:130:26:17

Did you know that it was going to be such a massive thing?

0:26:170:26:21

Did you get that feeling?

0:26:210:26:22

I can remember when I first heard the album,

0:26:220:26:25

the white album that Julie Covington played

0:26:250:26:28

the role of Evita on

0:26:280:26:29

and I remember, then, thinking,

0:26:290:26:32

"Wow, this is something very special and very different"

0:26:320:26:35

because we hadn't had musical theatre in that way before,

0:26:350:26:39

which was more like opera, really.

0:26:390:26:40

It was all sung through, there were no dialogue scenes.

0:26:400:26:44

I can remember thinking that was, you know, it was beautifully written

0:26:440:26:48

and wonderful music and great lyrics and thinking it was special.

0:26:480:26:51

Then, you know, I amazingly won that part

0:26:510:26:56

and I can remember the first day of rehearsal

0:26:560:26:58

and how Prince directed the very first scene

0:26:580:27:02

when we were all meant to be in the cinema and it turned,

0:27:020:27:06

it morphed into the funeral cortege of Eva.

0:27:060:27:11

I can remember then, when we were rehearsing, thinking,

0:27:110:27:14

-"Wow..."

-This is something.

-This is different.

0:27:140:27:16

But you were one of the first people to do a lot of the hit...

0:27:160:27:19

Particularly the lead role of the hit musicals which then,

0:27:190:27:22

I suppose, you made musicals known to the masses.

0:27:220:27:26

Since then, people knew the musical, but what I want to say is,

0:27:260:27:29

you took songs from that and really,

0:27:290:27:32

it was the songs that became as big as the musical, if not bigger.

0:27:320:27:35

Yes, actually, what happened, for me anyway, was that I was one

0:27:350:27:38

of the first people amazingly to be

0:27:380:27:40

able to come out of musical theatre

0:27:400:27:43

and have a record career.

0:27:430:27:44

You know...

0:27:440:27:46

-Was it Memory from Cats?

-Yes.

0:27:460:27:48

I did my first album when I was in Evita.

0:27:480:27:52

And that was lots of songs from the shows called Stages.

0:27:520:27:55

And, you know, that was an unusual situation

0:27:550:27:58

because up until that point,

0:27:580:28:00

you didn't really have hits coming out of musical theatre,

0:28:000:28:04

pop hits, you know, getting into the Top 10

0:28:040:28:07

but Don't Cry For Me Argentina was a big hit.

0:28:070:28:10

Memory was a big hit and so suddenly hits were happening,

0:28:100:28:14

I Know Him So Well from Chess,

0:28:140:28:16

they were all coming out of musical theatre

0:28:160:28:18

and having chart success, which was unheard of.

0:28:180:28:22

The right timing for you, as well?

0:28:220:28:24

Yeah, I was in the right place at the right time, I think.

0:28:240:28:27

Do you think we're going to see that again

0:28:270:28:29

because the music industry has changed so much.

0:28:290:28:31

It's not looking that way at the moment.

0:28:310:28:33

It's not looking good, is it?

0:28:330:28:35

Not in that way, but now what's happening,

0:28:350:28:37

is it's all retrospective, isn't it?

0:28:370:28:39

It's...

0:28:390:28:41

Bands like Queen and so on and so forth

0:28:410:28:44

using their music and making musicals of them.

0:28:440:28:47

It's sort of... It's turned the tables, really,

0:28:470:28:50

it's the other way around now.

0:28:500:28:51

And it's been great for you because your new album is out now.

0:28:510:28:55

Tell us about that because you've got a mixture of people,

0:28:550:28:58

you've called it after your friends but...

0:28:580:29:00

It's called Elaine Paige And Friends because a lot of them

0:29:000:29:03

are my real friends and it's an album of duets and I wanted

0:29:030:29:07

to choose music that was poles apart from musical theatre.

0:29:070:29:11

I looked at songs from the '70s pretty much

0:29:110:29:16

and, you know, those were the songs that I was interested in

0:29:160:29:19

when I was a young girl growing up and listening to.

0:29:190:29:22

-So, I rang up Billy Ocean...

-You rang up Billy Ocean!

0:29:220:29:26

-Yeah, go on.

-He's a friend,

0:29:260:29:27

I worked with him years ago in Denmark Street,

0:29:270:29:30

we were kids together, you know?

0:29:300:29:32

And doing doo-wops on other people's albums

0:29:320:29:34

and so on and that's where I met him.

0:29:340:29:36

Our voices kind of blended quite well together, I thought, then.

0:29:360:29:39

I thought, "I wonder if it would still be the same now?"

0:29:390:29:42

I rang him up and said would he like to do it?

0:29:420:29:43

I told him what I was doing. He said yes.

0:29:430:29:46

Barry Manilow said yes, John Barrowman said yes,

0:29:460:29:49

and so, it kind of... Then I was on a roll.

0:29:490:29:51

I thought I've got three, I've only got another nine to go!

0:29:510:29:54

-You've got Sinead O'Connor.

-Sinead O'Connor's on it.

0:29:540:29:56

Paul Anka. Oh, my goodness.

0:29:560:29:59

-Johnny Mathis.

-Johnny Mathis!

0:29:590:30:01

My mother will be watching this

0:30:010:30:03

and I remember, # Flickers in the sky #.

0:30:030:30:05

-Aw...!

-That's why I went into cooking, you see!

0:30:050:30:08

-If I'd known...

-# ..Dawns a brand-new morn

0:30:080:30:11

# When a child is born. #

0:30:110:30:12

-We used to listen to that all over Christmas.

-Did you really?

-Yeah!

0:30:120:30:15

-If I'd known , you could've have been on it.

-Possibly not, no.

0:30:150:30:18

-No, I think not, probably.

-THEY LAUGH

0:30:180:30:20

But, as well as that, you've got your concert?

0:30:200:30:23

Yeah, I'm going out on tour in the...in the, er...

0:30:230:30:26

after Christmas, in February.

0:30:260:30:28

If you want all the details just go to my website,

0:30:280:30:31

you can check where I am on what day -

0:30:310:30:34

February through March next year.

0:30:340:30:36

So, no, it's all looking good. And it's, er...

0:30:360:30:39

It was much fun to make. I was in New York

0:30:390:30:41

for three months doing the album,

0:30:410:30:43

and then I flew to LA

0:30:430:30:45

to work with Johnny Mathis and Paul Anka and Neil Sedaka - he's on it.

0:30:450:30:48

And LeAnn Rimes, of course.

0:30:480:30:51

I thought I'd better have a bit

0:30:510:30:52

of the young country voices on there.

0:30:520:30:54

-Sounds good to me.

-This is looking good, too.

-Happy with that?

-Yeah.

0:30:540:30:58

-And, as well, you've got your radio show?

-Yes, yes.

0:30:580:31:00

-Which is going really well.

-Yes, six years in and still doing the radio show.

0:31:000:31:03

Which I love.

0:31:030:31:05

Cos it means I am connected to the...public, as it were.

0:31:050:31:08

I'm loving that. It's great fun.

0:31:080:31:09

I shall recap what we've done. Because I've done it all, Elaine.

0:31:090:31:12

It's all been done already.

0:31:120:31:14

I don't know how you can cook and talk at the same time.

0:31:140:31:17

-Or was it me doing all the talking?

-It was you doing all the talking.

0:31:170:31:19

There you go. I've got a steak here...

0:31:190:31:21

It's still alive, that steak, so that's not for you.

0:31:210:31:23

We've got our shallot butter. Well, shallot... Big onion butter.

0:31:230:31:26

Some onion, balsamic vinegar and red wine reduced down.

0:31:260:31:29

Basically, that sits on the steak and you have that with your onion rings.

0:31:290:31:32

-The guys over there can dive into that one.

-Oh, yes...!

0:31:320:31:35

And then, what I'm going to do is slice our steak...

0:31:350:31:39

Looks pretty good.

0:31:390:31:40

-That one's all right for you, I think?

-Oh, yes, perfect.

0:31:400:31:43

Just... There you go.

0:31:430:31:45

We'll put that bit on there and then you've got this butter.

0:31:450:31:48

This is the onion reduced down with red wine,

0:31:480:31:50

balsamic vinegar and parsley.

0:31:500:31:52

And you basically just allow that to sit on it.

0:31:520:31:55

And a sort of...

0:31:550:31:56

-Hopefully, that will...

-Sink in! Oooh!

0:31:560:31:58

To little Mr Trotter's onions,

0:31:580:32:01

-dive into that.

-Ohh...!

0:32:010:32:04

And best of luck with the new album.

0:32:040:32:06

-Well, thank you very much.

-And I won't give up my day job!

0:32:060:32:09

This is the kind of food I would need before I go on stage, you see.

0:32:090:32:13

-Is it?

-Yeah. Give me a lot of energy.

0:32:130:32:16

-Big thumbs up over here, James.

-Thumbs up over there?

-Yeah.

0:32:160:32:19

-Mmm...!

-Happy with that?

-Mmmm... It's delicious!

0:32:190:32:21

I knew I should've stuck to cooking! There you go. Happy with that?

0:32:210:32:24

Little kid's onion? Jack Trotter's onion? See? It's a winner!

0:32:240:32:27

Next year, I want another one.

0:32:270:32:29

I'm pleased it passed the test, Elaine.

0:32:330:32:35

If you'd like to try cooking any of the studio recipes

0:32:350:32:37

you've seen on today's show,

0:32:370:32:39

all of those are just a click away at bbc.co.uk/recipes.

0:32:390:32:43

Today, we're looking back at some of the tastiest dishes

0:32:430:32:46

from the Saturday Kitchen recipe book.

0:32:460:32:48

Now, it's time for an unusual bit of cooking

0:32:480:32:50

from the always-innovative Tristan Welch.

0:32:500:32:52

Today, he's giving us a taste of the British coastline but...

0:32:520:32:55

there's no fish in sight.

0:32:550:32:57

-Great to have you back...on the show.

-Thank you very much.

0:32:570:33:00

What are we cooking? Very seasonal, this dish.

0:33:000:33:02

-Salt marsh lamb. It's at its best right now.

-OK.

0:33:020:33:05

And we're going to do that with a crust. Now the crust...

0:33:050:33:07

This is a lot of salt going in here - just be aware of that.

0:33:070:33:10

This is flour, salt, egg white and water.

0:33:100:33:13

Yeah, it's only just to cook lamb.

0:33:130:33:15

So, basically, we're covering it round...

0:33:150:33:17

A nice salty steam in there.

0:33:170:33:19

A fair amount of salt in it.

0:33:190:33:20

Now, tell us about salt marsh lamb - in particular the cut you're using.

0:33:200:33:24

It's fantastic.

0:33:240:33:25

It's lamb that's reared on the coastline of the estuaries,

0:33:250:33:28

and stuff like that.

0:33:280:33:29

And what it does, it grazes upon some of these wonderful herbs

0:33:290:33:33

-that we're going to cook it with, here.

-Yeah.

0:33:330:33:35

We've got sea aster here,

0:33:350:33:37

which is a little bit like samphire and spinach.

0:33:370:33:40

We've got sea purslane.

0:33:400:33:42

I've used this stuff before.

0:33:420:33:44

It's great with fish, as well.

0:33:440:33:46

Yes, it's perfect with fish.

0:33:460:33:48

This really is a great...

0:33:480:33:49

You can do this whole dish with fish,

0:33:490:33:51

but because the lamb is reared along the coastline,

0:33:510:33:54

along the estuaries, it's got a great sort of feel to it still.

0:33:540:33:57

-Yeah.

-Erm... And then, of course,

0:33:570:33:59

sea beets which is very much like spinach - with a slight salty taste.

0:33:590:34:02

Epicure potatoes which grow best next to the sea in sandy soils,

0:34:020:34:06

and wild sorrel to finish off.

0:34:060:34:07

I'm running behind - I need to get my lamb in and sealed off.

0:34:070:34:11

I need to get this pastry in, as well.

0:34:110:34:13

So, we're going to get the pastry in.

0:34:130:34:15

No seasoning on the lamb shoulder, by the way.

0:34:150:34:17

We're just going to colour it off a little bit.

0:34:170:34:19

So, the flour is going in.

0:34:190:34:20

In with the egg whites.

0:34:200:34:22

That goes in.

0:34:220:34:24

And then check out the salt!

0:34:240:34:27

This is the salt!

0:34:270:34:29

Salt's going to go in.

0:34:290:34:31

But, funnily enough, I can guarantee you, it won't be that salty

0:34:310:34:33

when it comes to eating the lamb.

0:34:330:34:35

You're using this as a crust, really.

0:34:350:34:38

It's just the crust.

0:34:380:34:40

You cook fish in great crusts of salt, don't you?

0:34:400:34:42

And that doesn't make it...

0:34:420:34:43

Yes, that's done with egg whites and, basically, sea salt.

0:34:430:34:46

But this is almost a salt crust, as it is.

0:34:460:34:49

Because we're cooking it for a longer time than we would fish,

0:34:490:34:51

we mix it with a bit of flour.

0:34:510:34:53

So, the salt doesn't permeate too much within the shoulder itself.

0:34:530:34:56

It seems to me what you're talking about with the lamb...

0:34:560:34:59

The expression "You are what you eat" -

0:34:590:35:01

But what you're saying is "You are what you eat eats"!

0:35:010:35:03

Yes, well, my...

0:35:030:35:05

My motto, when I'm creating dishes,

0:35:050:35:07

when I'm cooking is, "What grows together, goes together".

0:35:070:35:10

So, we take one core ingredient, like that,

0:35:100:35:12

like the salt marsh lamb

0:35:120:35:14

and we look at the other ingredients that grow harmoniously around it.

0:35:140:35:17

So, in this recipe...

0:35:170:35:18

there's no food miles, if you live by the coastline.

0:35:180:35:21

So, I'm just colouring off the lamb first,

0:35:220:35:25

to get a little bit of roast flavour into it.

0:35:250:35:27

I'm making some seaweed butter, with sea lettuce, as well.

0:35:270:35:30

I didn't explain that one.

0:35:300:35:31

It's just like a...

0:35:310:35:33

Another seaweed, essentially.

0:35:330:35:35

-Just blanch it quickly.

-That's the pastry, by the way.

0:35:350:35:37

What you need to do to that is once you've got to that stage,

0:35:370:35:41

you wrap it up in clingfilm. Right?

0:35:410:35:43

And I've got one... You need to rest this, don't you, first?

0:35:430:35:46

Well, yes. A little bit.

0:35:460:35:48

-But it's quite a short recipe.

-Rested for that one.

0:35:480:35:51

There you go, and that's your...

0:35:510:35:52

-You can make that salt pastry a day in advance, to be honest.

-OK.

0:35:520:35:56

-That's that one. You want me to roll it all out. yeah?

-Yes, please.

0:35:560:35:59

If you wouldn't mind rolling it out,

0:35:590:36:01

so we can get the seaweed butter spread on it,

0:36:010:36:03

then we'll put all these fantastic herbs in it.

0:36:030:36:05

-I've just taken the trim, as well, from the lamb.

-BANGS NOISILY

0:36:050:36:09

Oh, crikey. Just taken the trim...

0:36:090:36:11

Steady on!

0:36:110:36:13

-You need to get it started, don't you?

-Don't take it out on the pastry!

0:36:130:36:16

So, I've just taken...

0:36:160:36:17

-I'VE JUST TAKEN THE TRIMMING FROM THE LAMB!

-YEAH?

0:36:170:36:21

I don't want to waste it,

0:36:210:36:22

so I'm going to roast it off and make a very quick sauce with it.

0:36:220:36:25

Nice and light because the shoulder of lamb will go

0:36:250:36:27

nice, gelatinous and sticky - it will need a lot of sauce in there.

0:36:270:36:30

JAMES GRUNTS

0:36:300:36:33

You've been on your travels, as well, haven't you? Or are you about to go?

0:36:330:36:36

What's this about America?

0:36:360:36:37

Yeah, well, I'm popping over to America for a little bit.

0:36:370:36:40

I've been invited to go out there

0:36:400:36:42

and cook on one of their TV shows out there. And compete.

0:36:420:36:45

Just show 'em how us Brits do it, you know?

0:36:450:36:48

What is it about you lot? You get America.

0:36:480:36:50

He gets Malaysia...

0:36:500:36:51

You've been back from the Maldives.

0:36:510:36:53

I've got Glasgow tomorrow.

0:36:530:36:55

-You're in Glasgow tomorrow?!

-Yeah.

-Wow!

-I love Glasgow!

0:36:550:36:57

I love Glasgow.

0:36:570:36:59

Isn't that somewhere in Spain?

0:36:590:37:00

No, I like Glasgow. Don't knock Glasgow. I like Glasgow, it's great.

0:37:000:37:03

Says he, with a slice edge of panic in his voice.

0:37:030:37:06

No, I do! I like Glasgow, I do.

0:37:060:37:07

I learnt a new dish the other day - a Glasgow salad.

0:37:070:37:09

-Plate of chips.

-Plate of chips.

0:37:090:37:11

THEY LAUGH

0:37:110:37:12

-Great.

-Have you had the kebab...

0:37:120:37:15

-Deep-fried kebab meat?

-No, I've have never had that.

0:37:150:37:17

Have a few beers and I'm sure it'll...

0:37:170:37:19

-I shall try it when I'm up there.

-..be very appealing.

0:37:190:37:21

-Sounds good to me.

-Frozen pizza.

0:37:210:37:22

Right, rolling this out.

0:37:220:37:24

Now, you're cooking the potatoes in this, as well, aren't you?

0:37:240:37:27

Yeah, definitely, they're a fantastic variety of potatoes

0:37:270:37:30

which grow in the same sort of...

0:37:300:37:32

They grow at their best in the same sort of area as the lamb.

0:37:320:37:34

So, it all sort of goes hand-in-hand.

0:37:340:37:38

I'm just making a seaweed butter to go underneath that.

0:37:380:37:41

-Very simple.

-Always get someone else to do this. Probably a good idea.

0:37:410:37:45

-Here you go, mate.

-I need it!

0:37:480:37:49

Simple seaweed and butter... Blend it.

0:37:510:37:53

And it's amazing how well these flavours go.

0:37:550:37:58

Seaweed and butter. That's...

0:37:580:38:00

Like you say, from the same area.

0:38:000:38:02

Yeah.

0:38:020:38:03

Got a little bit of pastry there for the spuds.

0:38:030:38:06

Lovely, lovely.

0:38:060:38:08

-You want me to do that?

-Yeah, or I can do it quickly for you.

0:38:080:38:10

Yeah, all right. Spread a little bit of the butter on.

0:38:100:38:14

There's no salt in this either because, remember,

0:38:140:38:16

-it all comes out of the pastry.

-I'll take that.

0:38:160:38:19

-Cheers, man. That's easier.

-There you go.

-Lovely.

0:38:190:38:22

Spread that over there like that.

0:38:220:38:24

OK. Got a little on there, Chef.

0:38:240:38:26

-Sorry, Chef.

-For potatoes.

0:38:260:38:28

You want a few of these herbs in.

0:38:300:38:31

Yeah, as well - the sea aster, and sea purslane.

0:38:310:38:34

There you go.

0:38:340:38:35

-For the little potatoes.

-Yeah...

0:38:370:38:40

OK. Spuds.

0:38:400:38:42

Presentation side down.

0:38:420:38:44

Wallop like that.

0:38:440:38:46

Fold this over.

0:38:460:38:48

-Eggs...

-Like that.

0:38:480:38:50

-There you go.

-Brilliant.

0:38:510:38:54

So, the idea is, you roughly do this...

0:38:540:38:56

but it's all sealed in.

0:38:560:38:58

So, when you flip it over...

0:38:580:39:00

Do you know that lovely old English word a "huff".

0:39:020:39:04

-A huff?

-That's a "huff of pastry".

0:39:050:39:08

-A huff of pastry.

-A huff.

0:39:080:39:09

Well, there was a lot of huffing and puffing that went into it!

0:39:090:39:12

So, just to finish it off...

0:39:120:39:14

With the egg yolks that are left over...

0:39:140:39:17

..just brush it over there and that will give it a real beautiful shine.

0:39:190:39:22

When you cook this sort of dish -

0:39:220:39:24

it's a real centrepiece, and a real occasion.

0:39:240:39:26

Hopefully, we're going to crack one open in a minute,

0:39:260:39:29

and you'll see a great huff and puff of steam.

0:39:290:39:32

You've got the potatoes in there, as well.

0:39:320:39:34

Yeah. I'll glaze that up, as well.

0:39:340:39:36

Sprinkle the old sea salt on top, as well.

0:39:370:39:40

Just for the old presentation.

0:39:400:39:42

Now, these potatoes cook, obviously, quicker.

0:39:420:39:44

-So, they want, how long?

-They take 45 minutes.

0:39:440:39:47

And this one?

0:39:470:39:48

This takes four hours at 140.

0:39:480:39:51

And we got... Way-eh, look at this!

0:39:530:39:54

-Oh, there it is.

-Look at that!

0:39:540:39:56

That's a beauty.

0:39:560:39:57

A real occasion when you see that sort of thing.

0:39:570:40:00

Grabbing our potatoes out, as well.

0:40:000:40:01

These look like little jacket potatoes. Look great, don't they?

0:40:010:40:04

Right, your sauces... You've got the trimmings left over.

0:40:040:40:07

So, what I've done, I've got the trims, sauteed it

0:40:070:40:09

and when they've gone nice and brown, a touch of water,

0:40:090:40:12

let them caramelise, reduce down, caramelise again...

0:40:120:40:14

Repeat that process three times. So, a touch more water.

0:40:140:40:17

I'll add the last little touch of water in like that.

0:40:170:40:20

It gets all the nice caramelised bits

0:40:200:40:22

off the bottom of the pan into the thing.

0:40:220:40:24

Bit of stock... Right, we're ready when you are.

0:40:240:40:26

A little white wine.

0:40:260:40:28

-Brilliant.

-What are you doing with these little greens?

0:40:280:40:30

We'll just sweat off some spinach and some sea beets.

0:40:300:40:33

-Want some butter?

-Yeah, butter, please.

0:40:330:40:35

ITEM FALLS AND BOUNCES NOISILY

0:40:350:40:36

Didn't need that bit.

0:40:360:40:38

Not that bit of butter. It's fine, I can always use oil!

0:40:380:40:41

Carry on, nobody's noticed!

0:40:410:40:42

HE WHISTLES

0:40:420:40:44

-There you go - butter.

-Lovely.

0:40:440:40:46

Spinach, sea beets - cook them together.

0:40:460:40:48

A touch of water, as well.

0:40:480:40:51

Create that steam. You don't want it to fry and colour on the base.

0:40:510:40:54

Right, how do I get this thing off here?

0:40:550:40:57

Oh, right. Let's do it.

0:40:570:40:59

-Oh, crikey. That's stuck...

-Right.

0:40:590:41:02

We need a beautiful, big knife.

0:41:020:41:03

Here we are.

0:41:030:41:05

We'll leave it on here.

0:41:060:41:08

Yeah, it looks lovely on that tray!

0:41:080:41:10

Presentation's spotless, beautiful... NO!

0:41:100:41:13

You've got to be delicate.

0:41:150:41:17

Oh, no, go on - give it a crack.

0:41:170:41:18

HE WHACKS IT

0:41:180:41:20

No...! Go on, then.

0:41:200:41:21

Just gentle... Get your knife in along the knuckle edge

0:41:210:41:24

and you just crack at around like so.

0:41:240:41:26

And if I break these potatoes open...

0:41:260:41:29

And this is what it is all about.

0:41:300:41:32

Spuds... Look at them!

0:41:320:41:34

Here we are, look at this.

0:41:340:41:35

Look at the steam coming out of there!

0:41:350:41:38

-Smell the aroma on that.

-It looks good to me.

-Smell the aroma on that.

0:41:380:41:42

-Looks good to me.

-Fantastic. Fantastic.

0:41:420:41:44

Right, all you need to do to carve it... You don't need a knife.

0:41:450:41:49

-Just take a fork.

-Right.

0:41:490:41:50

Take a fork...

0:41:500:41:52

JAMES CLATTERS PLATES

0:41:520:41:54

I'll get you a plate.

0:41:540:41:55

I can put it on there, if you want?

0:41:550:41:57

On there? Go on, then.

0:41:570:41:59

So, just some sea beets on the base like so. Nice and simple.

0:41:590:42:02

A few spuds.

0:42:020:42:03

Look, nice and gelatinous and sticky - look how moist.

0:42:030:42:06

Ow, they're 'ot, aren't they?!

0:42:060:42:08

There's a surprise - coming out of an oven(!)

0:42:080:42:10

CHUCKLING

0:42:100:42:12

Look at that. It's so gelatinous and sticky and moist.

0:42:120:42:15

Just carve it with a fork.

0:42:150:42:17

I don't like the idea of a knife when you've got a dish like this.

0:42:170:42:19

Get nice and rustic.

0:42:190:42:21

Another piece... Get that whole piece there, like that.

0:42:210:42:23

Whack it on there like so.

0:42:230:42:25

And then... a little sieve for the sauce.

0:42:250:42:28

-Got that.

-Perfect.

0:42:280:42:29

And just to finish it off, some wild sorrel.

0:42:290:42:32

because it's got an amazing acidity to it.

0:42:320:42:35

Oh, what am I doing? In there...

0:42:350:42:37

-I need a sieve.

-I'm going mad. Look at that. There you go.

0:42:370:42:40

-There we are.

-Final touches.

0:42:400:42:42

And, of course, because it's been baked for a long time

0:42:420:42:45

-it needs a bit of sauce to keep it moist.

-Sauce over the top?

0:42:450:42:47

Lovely.

0:42:470:42:49

Sauce over the top.

0:42:490:42:51

-Some wild sorrel on there, as well.

-Remind us what that is again?

0:42:510:42:54

So, that is my shoulder of lamb - salt marsh lamb -

0:42:540:42:56

baked in a salt crust with wild herbs and potatoes.

0:42:560:42:59

And I need a rest while you look at that.

0:42:590:43:01

I have to say, it looks fantastic, it is worth the effort.

0:43:060:43:09

We'll put this here, as well.

0:43:090:43:11

Smell some of the aroma from that.

0:43:110:43:13

Dive into that, Monty.

0:43:130:43:15

A slow-roast shoulder of lamb is one of my favourite dishes.

0:43:150:43:18

This is what would be a Food Heaven.

0:43:180:43:20

They said I could only choose one, actually, I would've had about six.

0:43:200:43:23

Fantastic.

0:43:230:43:25

-I love it.

-Dive into that and tell us what you think.

0:43:250:43:27

-Like you say, you could do chicken like that, as well.

-Venison.

0:43:270:43:30

Venison works really well. I mean, the longer cooking times, the...

0:43:300:43:34

-Dive in.

-Beautifully moist.

0:43:340:43:36

Just get your fork and dig in.

0:43:360:43:38

Happy with that? And the potatoes - nice way of cooking them.

0:43:380:43:41

For me, it's a real Saturday-night sort of dish.

0:43:410:43:43

Go to your butcher's now, get your lamb, get your salt crust,

0:43:430:43:46

put it in the oven four o'clock - eight o'clock it will be perfect.

0:43:460:43:49

Take you a week, though,

0:43:490:43:50

if you've a dinner party for 12, to wrap up those potatoes!

0:43:500:43:53

That's a cracking dinner party centrepiece.

0:43:560:43:59

Now, if you're looking for a guide

0:43:590:44:00

to help you with your culinary tour of France, then look no further.

0:44:000:44:04

Here he is, the late, great Mr Keith Floyd.

0:44:040:44:07

He's in Burgundy today,

0:44:070:44:08

cooking veal escalope.

0:44:080:44:09

CHURCH BELL TOLLS

0:44:110:44:15

CHANTING

0:44:210:44:23

No, it's not Songs Of Praise.

0:44:230:44:26

This is, in fact, Citeaux Abbey

0:44:260:44:28

right in the heart of one of France's most prestigious

0:44:280:44:31

wine-growing areas, and, you know, if these monks -

0:44:310:44:33

I don't mean THESE ones, the ones who came before them centuries ago -

0:44:330:44:36

hadn't settled here to tend the vines,

0:44:360:44:38

Burgundy today would be a pretty dry place.

0:44:380:44:40

Strangely enough, the old order of the Cistercian monks

0:44:400:44:43

forbade them to drink the stuff.

0:44:430:44:46

They were probably far too busy knocking the living daylights

0:44:460:44:49

out of the Benedictine monks down the road.

0:44:490:44:51

You know, the ones that make that nice liqueur.

0:44:510:44:53

You've got to admire these chaps.

0:44:560:44:58

They make fantastic light and creamy cheese called Citeaux

0:44:580:45:01

named after the monastery and made from the milk

0:45:010:45:03

of these Charolais cows.

0:45:030:45:05

And they're totally self-sufficient.

0:45:050:45:06

In fact, my grandmother would've approved of their attitudes -

0:45:060:45:09

early to bed, early to rise, all that bit.

0:45:090:45:12

And, you know, if it wasn't for the fact that women are sadly banned,

0:45:120:45:15

I wouldn't mind spending a few weeks here myself...

0:45:150:45:18

to cleanse my very weary soul.

0:45:180:45:20

And here's one of my producers making an unusually dignified exit

0:45:230:45:27

to the Dog And Ferret. He-he-he...!

0:45:270:45:29

I thought the best way - initially, at least - to see Burgundy,

0:45:350:45:38

was from a boat on the River Saone

0:45:380:45:40

which flows through this lush countryside.

0:45:400:45:42

The Saone, by the way, is a very important river

0:45:420:45:45

and though not as wide as the Orinoco,

0:45:450:45:47

or as long as the Mississippi,

0:45:470:45:48

the French are very proud of it.

0:45:480:45:50

I forget how long it is - anyway this isn't a geography lesson.

0:45:500:45:52

Oh, look! There's my 900ft floating kitchen going by.

0:45:520:45:55

Burgundy food broadly falls into two categories.

0:45:550:45:58

One where it's stewed in a red wine,

0:45:580:45:59

and one where it's sauteed and turned into a mustard sauce-y thing

0:45:590:46:02

to pour over it. I'm doing the latter - mustard sauce.

0:46:020:46:05

Very simple. Clive, come down here.

0:46:050:46:07

Usual routine.

0:46:070:46:08

Two escalopes of veal,

0:46:080:46:10

some choice Dijon mustard,

0:46:100:46:12

some unsalted butter, some wonderful thick double cream -

0:46:120:46:15

very rare to find in France,

0:46:150:46:16

cos often cream in France isn't very good -

0:46:160:46:18

and the whole thing is going to be finished off

0:46:180:46:21

with this wonderful Marque de Bourgogne -

0:46:210:46:23

which is a kind of a very strong alcohol, sub-brandy sort of stuff,

0:46:230:46:26

made from the residue of the wine pressing.

0:46:260:46:28

But I'm not even doing that just for me,

0:46:280:46:30

or even for the director behind the camera,

0:46:300:46:32

I'm doing it for a very important guy who's coming to lunch

0:46:320:46:34

and who, at this moment, is sitting looking rather bored

0:46:340:46:36

on the bow of this barge.

0:46:360:46:38

So, if you'll come with me, here's a frying pan...

0:46:380:46:41

Stay with that, Clive, while I get my act together.

0:46:410:46:43

We put a bit of butter in there

0:46:430:46:45

and, hopefully, because, as usual, we've conned our way,

0:46:450:46:48

and I'm not familiar with the equipment here.

0:46:480:46:51

We do try to do things in real time and live,

0:46:510:46:53

so let's hope I've got the butter melting away there properly...

0:46:530:46:57

and one escalope of veal in.

0:46:570:46:58

Did you get that? He got that.

0:46:580:47:01

Another escalope of veal in.

0:47:010:47:03

Fingers in, turn it over the second it's got a little bit sealed.

0:47:030:47:06

Like that.

0:47:060:47:08

Season it with a little pepper.

0:47:080:47:11

Exactly like that.

0:47:110:47:12

Never add salt to meat, by the way, until it's sealed,

0:47:120:47:15

otherwise it brings the juices out and spoils it.

0:47:150:47:18

Now, you'll need to bear with me, take a look out of the window

0:47:180:47:20

if you're a bit bored at this stage. You'll see some lovely sights.

0:47:200:47:24

Beautiful countryside, vines,

0:47:240:47:26

maidens cavorting on the banks of the canal, stuff like that...

0:47:260:47:29

Possibly people cycling past -

0:47:290:47:30

because one way or another,

0:47:300:47:32

that's got to fry away for a second or two.

0:47:320:47:35

# Floyd busy down below

0:47:350:47:36

# In ze galley cooking veau

0:47:360:47:38

-# Cooking veau

-# Down below

0:47:380:47:40

# Cooking veau

0:47:400:47:41

# Belo-o-o-ow...

0:47:410:47:43

# Out ze window

0:47:430:47:44

# Looking out ze window...#

0:47:440:47:46

Now, when you buy mustard, you can buy any kind.

0:47:460:47:49

You can buy dark, vinegary-flavoured ones,

0:47:490:47:52

you can buy delicate yellow ones.

0:47:520:47:54

But for cooking with mustard, use the pale yellow one,

0:47:540:47:57

and always add it to the sauce at the end,

0:47:570:48:00

because if you cook it too hot,

0:48:000:48:01

if you make it too rich into the sauce,

0:48:010:48:03

it takes away the flavour of the mustard.

0:48:030:48:05

So, you warm the sauce up

0:48:050:48:06

and then add the mustard for the last end little bit.

0:48:060:48:09

Which we shall now do, because this...

0:48:090:48:11

Because he is a Frenchman, he likes his meat slightly underdone.

0:48:110:48:14

Turn that again like that.

0:48:150:48:17

All I do now...

0:48:170:48:19

And this is going to wreck your camera.

0:48:190:48:22

LOUD HISSING

0:48:220:48:24

A little Marque de Bourgogne

0:48:240:48:26

goes in there like that.

0:48:260:48:28

Absolutely up to maximum there.

0:48:280:48:30

The meat goes onto there.

0:48:310:48:32

Let the juice of the meat...

0:48:340:48:36

..and the Marque de Bourgogne reduce a little bit,

0:48:360:48:39

stir in some cream like that.

0:48:390:48:41

Two of those I should think would be fine.

0:48:410:48:43

Let's put three in.

0:48:430:48:45

Now, let that bubble away for a bit.

0:48:450:48:47

They'll probably be editing this down as they go along

0:48:470:48:49

because they can't afford the film

0:48:490:48:51

to actually cook a dish from beginning to end,

0:48:510:48:53

and I promise you, we are cooking in real time.

0:48:530:48:56

You can see by my face, I'm getting a bit hot.

0:48:560:48:58

Stay on that, Clive, while I get some pepper to put in there.

0:48:580:49:00

Like that.

0:49:000:49:02

Maximum heat, let it bubble away a bit.

0:49:040:49:06

I'll have a swig of wine while that's going on.

0:49:060:49:08

Another glass of Beaujolais.

0:49:080:49:10

Thicken this excellent sauce with a bit of excellent

0:49:100:49:13

French unsalted butter.

0:49:130:49:15

Melt that in like that.

0:49:150:49:17

All this is quite boring, this bit.

0:49:200:49:22

But, as I say, feel free to have a walk around the...

0:49:220:49:24

walk across the water and...

0:49:240:49:26

That's lovely now.

0:49:270:49:28

Then just a little bit of mustard -

0:49:280:49:30

about that much.

0:49:300:49:32

You can always look up one of these famous books,

0:49:320:49:35

preferably one of mine, to see precisely how much you put in.

0:49:350:49:40

That's it.

0:49:400:49:41

It's glistening yellow.

0:49:410:49:44

It's golden, it's mustard,

0:49:440:49:45

it says Dijon, it says Burgundy.

0:49:450:49:48

Pop it over there like that.

0:49:480:49:50

Look at that - simplicity itself!

0:49:500:49:52

Last time I cooked on a boat -

0:49:530:49:54

you can barely see this one moving -

0:49:540:49:56

it was a trawler in the gales off the south-west of England.

0:49:560:49:59

Anyway, there we are - escalope de veau a la moutarde de Dijon.

0:49:590:50:03

Je vous souhaitez bonne sante et bon appetit.

0:50:030:50:05

And so to lunch and a short, but meaningful, lesson on Burgundy wine

0:50:070:50:12

from Jean-Michel Lafond.

0:50:120:50:14

It's all the monks, you know?

0:50:140:50:15

When they established the monastery,

0:50:150:50:18

they have received a small piece of land in order to produce

0:50:180:50:20

the wines they needed for their mass.

0:50:200:50:22

And when they arrived to the vineyards,

0:50:220:50:24

when they arrived to the nature, they had a religious attitude,

0:50:240:50:27

which is based, you know, like any religious attitude, on respect.

0:50:270:50:32

And they've decided to respect the soil

0:50:320:50:34

and they decided to respect the character of the soil.

0:50:340:50:38

So, how have they resolved that?

0:50:380:50:39

They chose particular vines which were suitable for that area?

0:50:390:50:42

Absolutely. Little by little, they have made a selection of the plant

0:50:420:50:46

and they have noticed that the chardonnay plant for producing

0:50:460:50:49

the white wine and the pinot noir plant to produce the red wine

0:50:490:50:52

-was the best plant for us, you know?

-Did monks ever get drunk?

0:50:520:50:56

Did monks drink wine to enjoy themselves

0:50:560:50:59

or merely to celebrate Jesus Christ and mass and religion?

0:50:590:51:03

Well, I think both, you know?

0:51:030:51:05

They were really using the wine for the mass

0:51:050:51:08

and really enjoy the wine by themselves.

0:51:080:51:11

This Cote de Nuits is very rich and soft and fruity, isn't it?

0:51:110:51:15

And what makes the difference to all the Burgundy wines?

0:51:150:51:18

Wine is like people.

0:51:180:51:19

Wine is made by people for the people, and if you take

0:51:190:51:23

a group of people, you have some great ones and some funny ones.

0:51:230:51:26

So, that's the kind of thing which happens.

0:51:260:51:29

And wine reflects, you know, the life of the whole region.

0:51:290:51:32

And fortunately, we have some people who really produce good

0:51:320:51:35

stuff like this, pretty rich, giving a lot of aromas,

0:51:350:51:39

and a wine, as well, which looks nice, because never forget

0:51:390:51:42

that when you look at the wine, just one idea to remember,

0:51:420:51:45

when you look at it, you must like it.

0:51:450:51:47

If you don't like it when you see it, you will never enjoy it.

0:51:470:51:50

-So, it's like a woman.

-Exactly! Exactly.

0:51:500:51:53

KEITH COUGHS

0:51:570:51:58

MUSIC: From The Same Hill by Brian Eno

0:52:010:52:05

Now the bit you've all been waiting for, the arty bit.

0:52:060:52:09

There are two reasons for this.

0:52:090:52:11

One, Clive still hasn't won an award for his amazing photography,

0:52:110:52:15

and two, the director's really into this strange music,

0:52:150:52:18

which is completely above me.

0:52:180:52:19

I'd rather have the Dave Clark Five any day.

0:52:190:52:21

However, it is the first day of the "recolte", or "harvest",

0:52:210:52:24

and whether you like it or not, Clive is now going to indulge

0:52:240:52:27

himself in some dead moody shots of people picking grapes.

0:52:270:52:30

Then, in a minute, I shall give you

0:52:300:52:32

three salient facts on Burgundy wine.

0:52:320:52:35

OK, up with the music, please.

0:52:350:52:36

MUSIC CONTINUES

0:52:360:52:39

OK, fade the music again.

0:52:480:52:51

Right, fact one, what have the Romans ever done for us?

0:52:510:52:54

I mean, what have the Romans ever done?!

0:52:540:52:56

Well, they planted the first vines in Burgundy and Bordeaux...

0:52:560:53:00

it says here.

0:53:000:53:01

Number two, the prime grape of the Burgundy area is the pinot noir,

0:53:010:53:06

or the "black pinot".

0:53:060:53:08

Number three, Napoleon, on his European mini breaks wouldn't

0:53:080:53:12

leave home without a wagonload of Chambertin.

0:53:120:53:14

He loved it so much,

0:53:140:53:15

he made his army salute the vineyard every time they passed.

0:53:150:53:19

I think I said that right.

0:53:190:53:20

And number four, I like it very much.

0:53:200:53:22

I have to come fairly clean about all this.

0:53:270:53:29

Yes, I'm arrogant. Yes, I drink a lot.

0:53:290:53:31

But I don't really know a great deal about Burgundy wines,

0:53:310:53:34

and everything's been said about it.

0:53:340:53:36

Hugh Johnson, John Arlott, Jancis Robinson,

0:53:360:53:39

everybody knows all about it.

0:53:390:53:41

Buy books, research it as much as you like,

0:53:410:53:43

but the best way to find out about Burgundy wine is to drive

0:53:430:53:46

through the countryside, stopping here and there, having a glass.

0:53:460:53:49

And if you can't do that, buy my new game,

0:53:490:53:51

which I haven't yet invented. It's going to be called Vinopoly.

0:53:510:53:54

You throw a six, and every time you land on a little

0:53:540:53:56

appellation controlee plot of land, you get a super glass of wine.

0:53:560:53:59

Imagine the fun you could have

0:53:590:54:01

in these cold British winter evenings with an array of, say...

0:54:010:54:03

Oh, what's this village here called? Missed it. Never mind.

0:54:030:54:06

..glasses of...bottles of Morey-Saint-Denis, Aloxe-Corton,

0:54:060:54:09

Chambertin, arranged

0:54:090:54:11

warming gently in front of the hearth, throwing sixes and

0:54:110:54:14

drinking your way through a wonderful, wonderful part of France.

0:54:140:54:17

But I'm rabbiting on, and I've got some real work to do.

0:54:170:54:19

You know how we like to make these programmes really difficult?

0:54:190:54:22

My producer has invited a few of my yet-to-be-made friends to lunch.

0:54:220:54:26

About 35 of them.

0:54:260:54:28

Should be quite amusing!

0:54:280:54:29

I'm going to cook them a coq au vin. Coq au vin to Burgundy is

0:54:320:54:36

what a Cornish pasty is to Cornwall,

0:54:360:54:37

it is the national dish of this region.

0:54:370:54:39

And I've had two or three

0:54:390:54:41

while I've been here in two-star restaurants, Routier restaurants.

0:54:410:54:44

It hasn't been all that good.

0:54:440:54:45

So, my avowed aim today is to make the best coq au vin there is,

0:54:450:54:48

otherwise I'm going to eat my hat.

0:54:480:54:49

Anyway, Clive, come down. Let's look at the ingredients, as we do.

0:54:490:54:52

The most important thing,

0:54:520:54:54

and look at this, my darlings, 35 lots of chicken.

0:54:540:54:57

There are 70 pieces there, OK?

0:54:570:54:59

And it's a free-range chicken raised by a farmer.

0:54:590:55:01

We have some mushrooms, OK?

0:55:010:55:03

Mushrooms - champignons de Paris, they're called.

0:55:030:55:05

We have bay leaves and thyme, OK?

0:55:050:55:08

Clive, come on around a little bit, if you will?

0:55:080:55:11

Parsley, garlic, salted, smoked bacon,

0:55:110:55:15

which I'm going to cut up into little cubes,

0:55:150:55:17

carrots, onions and, over here a bit,

0:55:170:55:20

last, but absolutely not least, Gevrey-Chambertin,

0:55:200:55:23

one of the finest Burgundy wines in the area.

0:55:230:55:26

Now, what I've got to do, I've got to chop up all these little bits.

0:55:260:55:29

Clive, I know this is difficult, but I am under supreme pressure here.

0:55:290:55:33

Chop things up like that into small cubes.

0:55:330:55:35

I've got to chop up onions and things.

0:55:350:55:37

But to help myself, I've done a bit of that already.

0:55:370:55:39

Come over here and have a look into my pot.

0:55:390:55:42

If I can take that off...

0:55:420:55:43

You see, I've chopped up the bits of bacon, carrots and onion,

0:55:430:55:46

already frying away in there. Quite happy about that?

0:55:460:55:49

And they're nice and golden brown.

0:55:490:55:51

Now, I've got to dust these pieces of chicken into some

0:55:510:55:55

flour like that, just a tiny bit.

0:55:550:55:57

I have to put a little bit of salt on.

0:55:570:55:59

Like that. A little bit of pepper. You know how to do that.

0:55:590:56:01

You're not really worried about that.

0:56:010:56:03

And it goes into the pot, and hundreds of those go into the pot.

0:56:030:56:07

Now, this is where I can't explain exactly what we're doing.

0:56:070:56:10

I've also got to prepare an hors d'oeuvre for 35 people.

0:56:100:56:13

You go for a walk round the fields, see how they are down there,

0:56:130:56:16

picking the grapes and working up the appetite

0:56:160:56:18

that's going to crucify me if I don't do it properly!

0:56:180:56:21

I'll see you back in a minute, OK?

0:56:210:56:23

# Gevrey-Chambertin is the name of the vin

0:56:240:56:28

# The leaves understand it's the best in the land

0:56:280:56:32

# Grape on the vine will soon turn to wine

0:56:320:56:36

# And we'll drink it, drink it

0:56:360:56:40

# Food without some wine means the sun does not shine

0:56:400:56:44

# But never mind, everything will be fine

0:56:440:56:48

# We have a hunch that this little lunch

0:56:480:56:52

# Will be vraiment tres bon

0:56:520:56:55

# We have a hunch that this little lunch

0:56:570:57:00

# Will be vraiment tres bon. #

0:57:000:57:04

'Ah, yes, here's one of my new chums, Rene Leclair.

0:57:070:57:11

'I know he looks a bit like a player in a Clint Eastwood movie,

0:57:110:57:13

'but he makes great wine and in the old-fashioned way.

0:57:130:57:17

'Like all true creative geniuses, people like me and my producer,

0:57:170:57:21

'he's very passionate...for his wine

0:57:210:57:23

'and also the ladies that pick the grapes.

0:57:230:57:25

'In fact, his wife told me with a bit of a smile he married her

0:57:250:57:28

'not only for love,

0:57:280:57:30

'but also for the few hectares of vines that she owned.

0:57:300:57:32

'They're a philosophical lot, aren't they, the French?'

0:57:320:57:35

Hello! I'm glad you enjoyed - at least,

0:57:370:57:39

I HOPE you enjoyed that romp around the wine fields.

0:57:390:57:41

We've had every kind of disaster here.

0:57:410:57:43

We've had a power cut. I've got half of the chicken for

0:57:430:57:46

the coq au vin cooking on the other side of the road.

0:57:460:57:48

I'm going to just finish it off with a last little

0:57:480:57:50

drop of beautiful Gevrey-Chambertin,

0:57:500:57:53

the rich Burgundy wine that goes into this fabulous dish, coq au vin.

0:57:530:57:58

Now, just if I may, to recap - there it is, doesn't it look nice? -

0:57:580:58:02

just to recap, I fried the chicken with smoked bacon

0:58:020:58:05

and mushrooms and onions and little pieces of carrot,

0:58:050:58:08

I put it into this big casserole, then the electricity went,

0:58:080:58:11

so I took half of the chicken across the road, fried it over there,

0:58:110:58:14

brought it back into this one, poured in the red wine, added

0:58:140:58:17

bay leaves, thyme, salt, pepper, garlic and Gevrey-Chambertin...

0:58:170:58:21

..which is damn good.

0:58:230:58:24

But these chaps are about to charge through the fields now.

0:58:240:58:27

Just one little point, I'm actually drinking a kir here,

0:58:270:58:30

and all of those of you who think a kir is white Bourgogne Aligote

0:58:300:58:34

with blackcurrant liqueur in can be wrong,

0:58:340:58:36

because Gevrey-Chambertin and blackcurrant liqueur is superb

0:58:360:58:39

and it is still called a kir.

0:58:390:58:41

'It's 12 o'clock,

0:58:430:58:44

'and I'd had a dickens of a morning trying to get this coq au vin

0:58:440:58:47

'together, what with electricity cuts and all,

0:58:470:58:49

'and the first meal must be brilliant.

0:58:490:58:51

'So, I thought I'd go in and give them a few words,

0:58:510:58:53

'if necessary, of excuse!'

0:58:530:58:55

Messieurs, dames, si je peux vous silencier pour un instant,

0:58:550:58:58

je voudrais faire... Ta gueule, la-bas, s'il vous plait! Bon.

0:58:580:59:01

-LAUGHTER

-Excusez-moi.

0:59:010:59:03

Je voudrais faire tous mes excuses pour ce repas degueulasse.

0:59:030:59:07

J'ai fait mes meilleurs efforts,

0:59:070:59:09

mais nous avons un coupage d'electricite pendant le truc.

0:59:090:59:14

Moi, je ne suis pas habitue de cuisiner pour 35 personnes.

0:59:140:59:18

J'espere que dans votre petits enveloppes de paie au fin de recolte

0:59:180:59:23

il sera un petit supplement pour vous payer de supporter

0:59:230:59:31

ce merde que j'avais fait aujourd'hui.

0:59:310:59:33

Je vous souhaite un bon recolte et un bonne semaine, ou jour -

0:59:330:59:37

je ne sais combien vous travaillez. Merci beaucoup.

0:59:370:59:40

There'll be more from the culinary legend next week.

0:59:480:59:51

As ever, we're looking back at some of the great

0:59:510:59:53

cooking from the Saturday Kitchen archives.

0:59:530:59:56

Still to come on today's Best Bites,

0:59:560:59:58

the heat was turned right up high

0:59:581:00:00

when Glynn Purnell met Kenny Atkinson

1:00:001:00:02

at the Saturday Kitchen omelette hobs.

1:00:021:00:04

But who would come out on top? Find out in just a few minutes' time.

1:00:041:00:07

Jason Atherton shows us

1:00:071:00:09

how to cook a succulent onglet steak with a spiced pumpkin jam.

1:00:091:00:13

He serves the steak with Ratte potatoes

1:00:131:00:15

and a classic wild-mushroom sauce.

1:00:151:00:18

And Michelle Ryan faces her Food Heaven or Food Hell.

1:00:181:00:21

Would she get her Food Heaven, a white chocolate, Bourbon

1:00:211:00:24

and raspberry cheesecake, or would she get her dreaded Food Hell,

1:00:241:00:27

Singapore chilli crab with egg fried rice?

1:00:271:00:29

Find out what she gets to eat at the end of the show.

1:00:291:00:32

Now, Michael Caines' modern take on classic cooking always

1:00:321:00:36

goes down well on Saturday Kitchen,

1:00:361:00:37

and this fabulous fish supper is no exception.

1:00:371:00:41

As always, magic food that you're cooking.

1:00:411:00:43

-What are you cooking today?

-A wonderful dish.

1:00:431:00:46

We've got some monkfish fillet here, some mussels,

1:00:461:00:48

so we'll take some shallots, butter,

1:00:481:00:50

sweat them down, got some saffron, some herbs,

1:00:501:00:53

then we're going to make the sauce from the mussel juice

1:00:531:00:55

-with some white wine, fish stock, cream.

-Lovely.

-Beautifully done.

1:00:551:00:59

Very classy. So, the monkfish will go in here.

1:00:591:01:01

We'll season this slightly differently.

1:01:011:01:03

We've got some table salt, and we're going to take some curry powder

1:01:031:01:07

-and we'll mix those two together.

-Is it a mild curry powder you use?

1:01:071:01:11

It is, mild curry powder, but Madras curry powder is fine, too.

1:01:111:01:14

We'll just season the monkfish

1:01:141:01:16

with the salt and curry powder.

1:01:161:01:19

That way, it gets on nice and even.

1:01:191:01:21

And then, the good thing here, really,

1:01:211:01:23

because monkfish is quite a firm-textured fish,

1:01:231:01:25

just leave it for about 30 minutes, possibly, in the fridge,

1:01:251:01:29

and the salt just draws out the moisture and gets it firmer,

1:01:291:01:33

so that's going to be fantastic.

1:01:331:01:35

Now, we take a little bit of olive oil, James,

1:01:351:01:37

and we're going to cook this monkfish in some olive oil

1:01:371:01:40

with a bit of beurre noisette

1:01:401:01:43

and then we'll put it in the oven

1:01:431:01:44

to roast for about three or four minutes.

1:01:441:01:47

So in we go, start it off,

1:01:471:01:49

-and then we'll add some butter.

-The butter's important for this,

1:01:491:01:52

-cos it not only gives it its nice colour...

-I love cooking in noisette.

1:01:521:01:56

We just seared it off, turn it over

1:01:561:01:58

-and do you mind, we'll put that in the...

-I'll put that in there...

1:01:581:02:02

-OK, great.

-..while you can get on and do the mussels.

1:02:021:02:04

-The mussel sauce...

-How long is this going in for, boss?

1:02:041:02:07

About four, five minutes maximum.

1:02:071:02:09

-Four, five minutes, OK.

-And the sauce itself...

1:02:091:02:12

Thank you for the shallots. Just put the shallots in...

1:02:121:02:15

with the butter.

1:02:151:02:17

A pinch of salt's always good, as well.

1:02:171:02:19

-Doing it in that pan?

-Of course I'm doing it in a pan.

-There you go.

1:02:191:02:23

Thank you. I know what I'm doing.

1:02:231:02:25

There's a sink behind, if you want to wash your hands.

1:02:251:02:28

And then just a little bit of saffron, cook out the saffron,

1:02:281:02:31

we've got some thyme here

1:02:311:02:34

and some bay leaf.

1:02:341:02:37

The mussels themselves are ready to go in.

1:02:371:02:41

Splash of white wine, that's all we're going to cook this in.

1:02:411:02:44

-Thank you.

-Like moules marinieres.

1:02:451:02:47

Exactly, just like moules marinieres.

1:02:471:02:50

-Mussels in.

-Lid on?

-Lid on.

1:02:501:02:52

Yeah. And these are going to cook for how long? Literally?

1:02:521:02:56

-A few minutes.

-Couple of minutes.

-Maximum, couple of minutes, James.

1:02:561:02:59

I'd like you to just take them out. We want them to be plump.

1:02:591:03:03

Then, when you use all the mussels,

1:03:031:03:05

make sure they're closed. We've got a bit of chopped tarragon for that.

1:03:051:03:08

-Now, winning awards...

-Yes.

1:03:081:03:10

-Mark here's won plenty of awards.

-Not enough!

1:03:101:03:13

Not enough? You've won one recently, haven't you?

1:03:131:03:16

-Second-best hotel in the world?

-That was Gidleigh Park, yes.

1:03:161:03:19

-It's outrageous. Why not first?

-What was the first one anyway?

1:03:191:03:22

-What was the first one?

-Um... We were out-pitched.

1:03:221:03:25

-Somewhere in Spain.

-You can't remember!

1:03:251:03:27

You're not bothered, are you? LAUGHTER

1:03:271:03:29

Not bothered. "Somewhere!"

1:03:291:03:31

I'm just gutted...!

1:03:311:03:33

But I mentioned the empire. The restaurants are growing and growing?

1:03:331:03:38

Yeah, Manchester restaurant just got Restaurant Of The Year

1:03:381:03:40

for Manchester Food and Drink Awards. That's fantastic.

1:03:401:03:43

We're only open for six months, so well done to all the team.

1:03:431:03:47

And where's next for you, then?

1:03:471:03:49

-Well, we're Chester next year.

-Reading?

1:03:491:03:52

-Opening...

-Come on, stay away!

1:03:521:03:54

Yeah, I didn't want to tell.

1:03:541:03:56

-No, of course, yes.

-Straight off the press.

1:03:561:03:58

I'll come to you for a coffee.

1:03:581:03:59

Definitely. We've just bought somewhere in Salisbury, so...

1:03:591:04:02

-Great.

-Fantastic.

-Yeah, it's great.

1:04:021:04:04

Good, OK. So, once these are cooked,

1:04:041:04:08

-steam them up nicely.

-They don't take very long.

-Just strain them off.

1:04:081:04:11

-Fantastic. And then we'll remove this.

-I'll lose that.

1:04:131:04:18

-Get rid of this.

-What we want to do now is take the sauce.

1:04:181:04:21

You want the meat out of here, yes?

1:04:211:04:23

Absolutely. Just take some of this. I'm not going to use all of it.

1:04:231:04:27

What we're looking to do is reduce that down, nice and hot,

1:04:271:04:29

we're going to add some fish stock now, just the white wine,

1:04:291:04:33

and the flavour's coming from the...

1:04:331:04:35

Right, while you're doing that, you want me to turn over this monkfish?

1:04:351:04:38

Yes, please, just a couple of minutes and then turn it over.

1:04:381:04:41

Good. All looking good, James?

1:04:411:04:43

It's cooked in all that lovely butter.

1:04:431:04:45

Right. So, what's next?

1:04:451:04:47

-Next...

-The sauce. So, we've got the liquor from the mussels.

1:04:471:04:50

Absolutely, this is all about a bit of reduction,

1:04:501:04:52

and we can also add a little bit of butter,

1:04:521:04:55

not too much butter, but we're going to reduce this now

1:04:551:04:58

-with a little touch of cream.

-We love butter, don't we?

1:04:581:05:00

And, erm... I've got some grain mustard, James.

1:05:001:05:03

Goes really well with monkfish. Actually, this sauce,

1:05:031:05:06

if you remove the fish stock and put the chicken stock in,

1:05:061:05:10

you can make the sauce - obviously, without the mussels -

1:05:101:05:13

and it would go excellent with chicken, as well.

1:05:131:05:16

It's that kind of same technique.

1:05:161:05:17

-Or pork, actually.

-Yeah.

1:05:171:05:20

The secret is with mussels,

1:05:201:05:21

literally, all you do is, you don't prise them open.

1:05:211:05:24

Once you've cooked them, make sure you, literally...

1:05:241:05:26

all the dead ones before are actually closed.

1:05:261:05:30

-Look at that.

-They're beautiful.

1:05:301:05:31

The meat on these mussels is just amazing.

1:05:311:05:34

-Well, they are in season at the moment.

-These are Scottish mussels.

1:05:341:05:37

So, they are absolutely superb.

1:05:371:05:39

But they're full of meat, full of flavour.

1:05:391:05:43

Now, you want some of these for garnish, is that right?

1:05:431:05:45

Just a few for garnish. I like using the shells.

1:05:451:05:48

Now, the reduction here for the sauce

1:05:481:05:51

is just finished with a little bit of butter.

1:05:511:05:53

Now, I'll whisk into that some grain mustard.

1:05:531:05:55

A little bit of butter going in now.

1:05:551:05:58

A shimmy of butter.

1:05:581:06:00

-A "shimmy" of butter?

-Yeah.

1:06:001:06:02

And now, what I want to do is take your mussels and put them

1:06:021:06:05

-back into the sauce.

-I'm going as quick as I can.

1:06:051:06:08

The butter's quite crucial at this stage.

1:06:081:06:10

It's a bit like Daniel's thing. It helps thicken the sauce.

1:06:101:06:12

It does, it's a monte. We call it monte au beurre,

1:06:121:06:14

which basically means just to "thicken with butter", but it...

1:06:141:06:18

This is the time that you slow down,

1:06:181:06:19

you just take your time, take a spoon,

1:06:191:06:22

check for the acidity and the balance

1:06:221:06:25

and just finish the wonderful dish.

1:06:251:06:28

And now, we've got some mussels going back through the sauce,

1:06:281:06:32

heat them through, take a large spoon.

1:06:321:06:35

Cool down, a little.

1:06:351:06:36

There we have the monkfish.

1:06:361:06:38

That's great. So, the monkfish, what I like about the monkfish, James,

1:06:391:06:42

is its noisette of the butter.

1:06:421:06:45

Just rest the monkfish for a few seconds

1:06:451:06:48

and then, all you need to do is...

1:06:481:06:49

I'll just slice this in half for you.

1:06:491:06:51

Yeah, you can do that, dress it,

1:06:511:06:52

and I'll get a large spoon ready for the sauce.

1:06:521:06:55

Now, you actually serve this just slightly medium?

1:06:551:06:58

Yeah, medium rare.

1:06:581:07:00

Fish, like meat, should be rested, just a few seconds,

1:07:001:07:04

a few minutes, sorry, just to keep the residual heat going through

1:07:041:07:08

and then, just over the top, now, this delicious sauce.

1:07:081:07:12

Now, this sauce is almost like a soup.

1:07:121:07:14

Just think of it like a soup of mussels with the curried monkfish

1:07:141:07:17

with the beurre noisette flavours,

1:07:171:07:19

and the two spices, the curry and the saffron,

1:07:191:07:22

just go excellent together.

1:07:221:07:24

And the tarragon, fresh tarragon, right at the end. Delicious, James.

1:07:241:07:27

So, remind us what that dish is again.

1:07:271:07:29

So, here we are with curried, pan-fried monkfish with

1:07:291:07:32

a saffron, mussel, grain mustard and tarragon sauce.

1:07:321:07:36

What more do you want?

1:07:361:07:37

Two-star Michelin chef. Brilliant.

1:07:371:07:40

Absolutely brilliant. I can tell it's brilliant

1:07:451:07:47

because I can smell it's brilliant, first of all. Mate, have a seat.

1:07:471:07:51

-Lovely, thank you.

-And dive in. Tell me what you think of this one.

1:07:511:07:54

Now, adventurous cooking.

1:07:541:07:55

One of the things that you'd probably attempt, or not?

1:07:551:07:58

-As of today!

-As of today.

-You've got a spoon there to try the sauce.

1:07:581:08:03

The sauce is like a soup.

1:08:031:08:05

It's lovely to eat the whole lot, yeah?

1:08:051:08:07

You said it earlier. It's just like a moules mariniere.

1:08:071:08:10

The sauce itself is just like moules mariniere,

1:08:101:08:12

but finished with a little bit of cream and...

1:08:121:08:14

And with the mussels, the monkfish is a bit more money,

1:08:141:08:17

-but you could mix-and-match the fish?

-Exactly.

1:08:171:08:19

-We talked about pollack, about cod, perhaps, even...

-Halibut...

1:08:191:08:23

Absolutely, halibut,

1:08:231:08:25

but what you want is quite a meaty fish to carry out this dish.

1:08:251:08:29

-What do you think?

-Absolutely delicious. Really delicious.

1:08:291:08:32

Such delicate and well-balanced flavours.

1:08:371:08:39

It tasted sensational, did that dish.

1:08:391:08:42

The concentration on Glynn Purnell and Kenny Atkinson's face

1:08:421:08:45

was intense, when they went head-to-head

1:08:451:08:47

at the omelette challenge.

1:08:471:08:48

Kenny was all set on beating Glynn's record of 30 seconds,

1:08:481:08:52

but how did they both do? Let's find out.

1:08:521:08:54

Let's get down to business, the serious stuff.

1:08:541:08:56

All the chefs that come on the show battle it out against the clock

1:08:561:08:59

and each other to test how fast they can make a simple three-egg omelette.

1:08:591:09:02

Glynn, pretty respectable time, 30 seconds, there.

1:09:021:09:05

-Kenny, who would you like to beat on our board?

-Erm, Mr Purnell.

-Really?

1:09:051:09:08

Usual rules apply. Three-egg omelette, cooked as fast as you can.

1:09:081:09:11

Put the clocks on the screens, please. Are you ready?

1:09:111:09:14

Three, two, one, go.

1:09:141:09:15

Secret practice has paid off, Kenny!

1:09:161:09:18

They go all serious. Nobody speaks to me on this bit.

1:09:201:09:23

-No time.

-There you go, right.

1:09:231:09:24

Just make sure you get up to the boil, that's the key to it.

1:09:261:09:28

The concentration on their faces!

1:09:311:09:33

Are you sure it's an omelette?

1:09:341:09:36

CYMBAL CRASHES

1:09:401:09:41

Let's go, almost time up. Looking good.

1:09:411:09:45

Kenny hasn't said a word.

1:09:461:09:47

He hasn't breathed!

1:09:471:09:49

CYMBAL CRASHES

1:09:491:09:50

There you go. Right.

1:09:501:09:53

That's kind of...

1:09:551:09:57

It's a French omelette.

1:09:571:09:58

It is a wonder why I'm not ill on this show, isn't it, really?

1:09:581:10:01

Have some more of that, it's delicious! What's wrong?

1:10:021:10:05

Kenny's is seasoned, yours is not. Kenny?

1:10:051:10:08

It's all about the time, Chef.

1:10:081:10:10

-You haven't beaten Glynn.

-I know that.

1:10:141:10:17

You did it in 33.96.

1:10:171:10:19

But it's scrambled eggs.

1:10:191:10:20

-You've got to put it back.

-Aww!

1:10:201:10:23

I'm not even going to get into the drumroll, James, it kills me.

1:10:231:10:25

-It's killing me now.

-JAMES LAUGHS

1:10:251:10:28

You did it quicker than your time. What were you, 30.16?

1:10:281:10:32

-You did it in 26.32 seconds.

-Wow!

1:10:321:10:35

I'm going to let you off, it's going on there, mate.

1:10:371:10:39

-I'll let you off. I'll let you off.

-Thank you.

1:10:391:10:42

Well done, Glynn, But better luck next time, Kenny.

1:10:471:10:50

Now, there were a few worried faces in the studio

1:10:501:10:52

when Jason Atherton said he would be serving Ratte potatoes

1:10:521:10:56

but don't worry, they're not what you think.

1:10:561:10:58

Now, I love your food, because it inspires

1:10:581:11:00

so many different chefs, as well.

1:11:001:11:01

-You've got inspiration from all over the place.

-Yeah.

1:11:011:11:03

-What's the dish called?

-So, we've got onglet of beef, simply grilled,

1:11:031:11:06

because I love to use unusual cuts of meat.

1:11:061:11:08

Then we've got pumpkin jam, a spiced pumpkin jam.

1:11:081:11:10

We've got some beef here.

1:11:101:11:12

Beef fat, we're going to render down to make the confit potatoes.

1:11:121:11:15

So, rather than duck fat, we'll do it in beef fat

1:11:151:11:17

because it's going with beef, so it's a natural marriage.

1:11:171:11:19

-Beef fat potatoes, yeah.

-We've got some wild mushrooms.

1:11:191:11:21

I'll make a sauce with a bit of capers, shallots, parsley,

1:11:211:11:24

a little bit of curly kale which is bang in season

1:11:241:11:26

and we're going to simply braise that a little bit.

1:11:261:11:28

-Mate, you want to get that on, first of all.

-Yeah.

1:11:281:11:30

So, what do you want me to do?

1:11:301:11:32

If you grind those spices for me?

1:11:321:11:33

This is cinnamon, nutmeg and clove,

1:11:331:11:36

which are nice sort of autumny spices.

1:11:361:11:39

This is the pumpkin which you've just steamed for an hour,

1:11:391:11:42

or you can bake it in tinfoil, whatever.

1:11:421:11:45

Then just chop it up and stick it in there,

1:11:451:11:47

That gets blended up with that, as well.

1:11:471:11:49

Then we're going to put the beef on. So, you just...

1:11:491:11:51

This cut, in particular, whereabouts is it from?

1:11:511:11:54

It's like, the flank, the skirt,

1:11:541:11:55

just coming from this part of the animal, from there.

1:11:551:11:58

But the French love this, don't they?

1:11:581:12:00

-But it needs to be hung quite a long time, though.

-You need to hang it.

1:12:001:12:03

It is the most flavoursome part of the animal, I think.

1:12:031:12:06

A bit chewy, but very, very tasty.

1:12:061:12:08

They say it's the butcher's steak.

1:12:081:12:10

In French, we call it "la piece du boucher".

1:12:101:12:13

It's the steak that the butcher would put aside for himself.

1:12:131:12:16

Put it aside. When you have steak and chips like that,

1:12:161:12:20

you thinly slice it and pan-fry it and plate it out, there you go.

1:12:201:12:23

All we do with the fat... We've got the steak cooking now.

1:12:231:12:26

All we do with the fat is put it in a pan and render it down.

1:12:261:12:29

Rendering means to basically melt it. So, in goes the potatoes.

1:12:291:12:33

So, we've got our spices going in our blender.

1:12:331:12:35

And then we want to flavour those potatoes,

1:12:351:12:37

so we'll put in a bit of garlic.

1:12:371:12:39

Now, you talked about that fat.

1:12:391:12:40

You use a tremendous amount of beef in maze Grill.

1:12:401:12:43

In the steak restaurant.

1:12:431:12:45

So, is this some idea that you got

1:12:451:12:47

from left over parts of butcher's?

1:12:471:12:49

Yeah, he ages all the steaks for us and we've got this beautiful

1:12:491:12:53

sort of creamy, goldeny-coloured fat on top.

1:12:531:12:56

And, obviously, when we portion all the steaks up,

1:12:561:12:59

we want to make sure that we use everything up, everything

1:12:591:13:02

we can in the kitchen, so we said, "What can we do with this fat?"

1:13:021:13:04

So we started, rather than buying duck fat in,

1:13:041:13:07

we rendered it down and we use it to confit things in.

1:13:071:13:10

We confit duck legs in it, we confit potatoes.

1:13:101:13:12

And render it down, it's just too slowly cook it in a pan,

1:13:121:13:15

-that's all it is?

-Yes. So, if you pop that in there, James.

1:13:151:13:17

Anyway, we've got our puree here.

1:13:171:13:19

Yeah, just stick that in there, and we'll jam that down.

1:13:191:13:21

-There you go. Butter in there.

-Butter and a little bit of olive oil.

1:13:211:13:25

Just going to pop the sugar in there.

1:13:251:13:28

Pumpkin goes with so many different flavours, doesn't it?

1:13:281:13:31

It's great. We've had it on the show before.

1:13:311:13:33

A little bit of Amaretti biscuits.

1:13:331:13:35

You can do it with ravioli, anything like that.

1:13:351:13:37

It works with desserts, it works with everything, really.

1:13:371:13:40

It's a universal vegetable.

1:13:401:13:42

Plenty of sugar in there.

1:13:421:13:43

Yeah, so we're just going to... Basically, all we're doing now is

1:13:431:13:46

cooking that down like a conserve, so we're just jamming that down.

1:13:461:13:50

-There you go.

-And then, you cook that down for about an hour,

1:13:501:13:53

an hour and a half, until you've got a real sort of nice, jammy texture.

1:13:531:13:58

So, last time you were on the show,

1:13:581:13:59

you were just opened in South Africa?

1:13:591:14:01

Yeah, South Africa, we opened up, beginning of the year,

1:14:011:14:04

in Easter, which was great.

1:14:041:14:06

Great success. It's doing really well.

1:14:061:14:09

-It's packed. If you can chop that for me, James?

-And then Doha next.

1:14:091:14:12

And then, I believe, you're going to Australia. Is that right?

1:14:121:14:14

Yes, Australia, later on in the year.

1:14:141:14:16

They're keeping me out of trouble, James, that's the bottom line.

1:14:161:14:19

Is it the same ethos that you just duplicate in the restaurant?

1:14:191:14:22

Not really. We change it.

1:14:221:14:23

Basically, what we do with each,

1:14:231:14:25

every time we take the cuisine to a different country,

1:14:251:14:28

we always use local produce.

1:14:281:14:30

Because, for me, it's very important.

1:14:301:14:32

Because if you don't embrace the culture,

1:14:321:14:34

you can end up with a very sterile brand.

1:14:341:14:36

But the restaurant itself, for anybody that hasn't been there,

1:14:361:14:39

but it's like a little tapas, it's a grazing menu, isn't it?

1:14:391:14:42

That's right. The idea is

1:14:421:14:43

you can eat as much or as little as you want,

1:14:431:14:45

-rather than a chef forcing you a tasting menu.

-Yeah.

1:14:451:14:48

We're just going to pop the cabbage in there.

1:14:481:14:50

Rather than a chef forcing you a tasting menu,

1:14:501:14:52

you come and have one course, five courses, six courses.

1:14:521:14:55

20 courses, if you're really up to it.

1:14:551:14:58

-Right, what's happening with this? This is curly kale.

-Yeah.

1:14:581:15:02

In a burnt pan. Do you want to take that one out?

1:15:021:15:04

We'll just take that one out. That's too hot, that one.

1:15:041:15:07

Now, this curly kale, you're going

1:15:071:15:08

to cook it just with a little bit of butter.

1:15:081:15:11

-Don't want to set the studio on fire.

-There you go. In there.

1:15:121:15:15

-So, that goes in there.

-Yeah.

1:15:151:15:18

-Do you want a bit of water in there?

-Please, yeah.

-Little bit of water.

1:15:181:15:22

And that goes like that, so we're just cooking that down.

1:15:221:15:24

And we're literally... All we're doing is wilting that.

1:15:241:15:27

-Put a bit of salt in there.

-There you go.

1:15:271:15:29

-Sorry about that.

-Can we get the fire engine in, please?!

1:15:291:15:32

A little bit of water! A touch of butter.

1:15:321:15:35

-Are you sure I'm a chef?

-Yes!

1:15:351:15:37

What mushrooms have we got in here, then?

1:15:391:15:41

Wild mushrooms. What we've got here are some girolles and trompettes.

1:15:411:15:44

You can use any mushrooms, any mushrooms that are in season.

1:15:441:15:47

We're going to stick those in there.

1:15:471:15:49

Like that.

1:15:491:15:51

So, you've got capers and a little bit of shallot in here?

1:15:511:15:54

Capers, parsley, shallot.

1:15:541:15:56

In they go. Stick it all in. I don't want to get too cheffy.

1:15:561:15:59

Is this looking a little bit too complicated for you, Jo, or...?

1:15:591:16:02

Not 'alf!

1:16:021:16:04

LAUGHTER

1:16:041:16:06

This is easy, Jo!

1:16:061:16:08

Pumpkin jam, you've never made that before?

1:16:081:16:10

No, I haven't! I haven't made any jam!

1:16:101:16:12

I've never even made that.

1:16:121:16:14

-A little bit of red wine.

-A little bit of red wine,

1:16:151:16:17

sherry vinegar, we're just reduce that down.

1:16:171:16:19

-Sherry vinegar will give a bit of sharpness to go with it.

-Exactly.

1:16:191:16:22

That's reducing down nicely. That's it.

1:16:221:16:25

So, once that is cooked, this is what you end up with?

1:16:251:16:28

-Exactly, yeah.

-It almost changes colour.

1:16:281:16:30

-You can see the difference in colour there.

-Yeah.

1:16:301:16:33

-But it's...

-That's just the sugar cooking down.

-It's the sugar, yeah.

1:16:331:16:36

That's our steak cooked. So, it cooks in literally...

1:16:361:16:39

Actually, people nickname that minute steak. There you go.

1:16:391:16:41

But you can open it out and flatten it, can't you, really?

1:16:411:16:44

Yeah, use it for steak sandwiches and that type of stuff.

1:16:441:16:47

A little bit of stock in there, not too much, reduce that down.

1:16:471:16:50

-A bit of salt and pepper.

-Those are those fantastic potatoes.

1:16:501:16:53

Now, these are the type of potatoes, Ratte, they call them in France?

1:16:531:16:57

-R-A-T-T-E, Ratte.

-From here. "Rrr!"

1:16:571:17:01

-R-A-T-T-E, innit?

-That's right.

1:17:011:17:03

But they used to, I believe they started growing them in the UK,

1:17:031:17:06

but they're not as popular as they are in France.

1:17:061:17:08

-They're fantastic potatoes.

-They're a beautiful potato, yes.

1:17:081:17:11

And they don't have a tail,

1:17:111:17:12

even though they are called Ratte potatoes.

1:17:121:17:14

Jo was looking worried, there!

1:17:141:17:16

You don't know what you're letting yourself in for!

1:17:161:17:19

Mmm. Ratte potatoes, haven't you got any mouse ones?

1:17:191:17:23

LAUGHTER

1:17:231:17:24

Right, there's your spuds.

1:17:241:17:26

Yeah, and two dollops of the pumpkin jam in there,

1:17:261:17:29

cut the little potatoes up, stack them up nicely.

1:17:291:17:31

-Very cheffy.

-All little bit cheffy. Can't help myself.

1:17:331:17:36

All right.

1:17:361:17:38

Beef that's rested for a minute or so. Carve that up into three pieces.

1:17:381:17:41

-Now, you've served that rare-rare.

-Yeah.

1:17:411:17:44

When you taste it, you can see why it gets served so rare.

1:17:441:17:47

All right, there you go.

1:17:471:17:49

Come on, Jo, don't look so worried.

1:17:491:17:52

It's all good.

1:17:521:17:54

And that curly kale doesn't take very long to cook at all.

1:17:561:17:59

-No, not long at all.

-If you're buying this, by the way,

1:17:591:18:01

make sure you cook it as soon as you buy it.

1:18:011:18:04

If it's older, curly kale, it can be quite bitter, so...

1:18:041:18:06

And, literally,

1:18:061:18:08

all we're doing is scattering the wild mushrooms on top.

1:18:081:18:12

A little bit of the sauce around.

1:18:121:18:14

Could do with a little bit more reducing, but...that's OK.

1:18:141:18:17

And that bit of vinegar to give it a bit of sharpness.

1:18:171:18:19

-Just wipe the plate for me, James.

-Remind us what that dish is again.

1:18:191:18:23

That is my roasted onglet steak,

1:18:231:18:24

with wild mushroom red wine reduction

1:18:241:18:28

and a little bit of curly kale and some confit potato.

1:18:281:18:31

-And don't forget the pumpkin jam.

-And pumpkin jam, yeah.

-There you go.

1:18:311:18:34

Pumpkin jam.

1:18:401:18:42

Jo, there you go.

1:18:421:18:44

It's not in a bun with chips, but there you go. Dive into that.

1:18:441:18:47

-Do I have to go first?

-You have to go first.

-Oh, God, right...

1:18:471:18:50

Just take a little bit of the pumpkin jam, this little puree bit.

1:18:501:18:53

-What's that?

-That's pumpkin jam.

-No, which bit?

1:18:531:18:55

-That bit there?

-That?

-Yeah, yeah. The orange bit.

1:18:551:18:58

Oh, God!

1:19:001:19:02

LAUGHTER

1:19:021:19:03

-What do you reckon?

-That tastes like one of those scented bags

1:19:031:19:07

that old ladies have in their knicker drawers!

1:19:071:19:09

I think we better move it on, then! Ha-ha!

1:19:091:19:13

You're next, Michel, so I don't know what you're worried about!

1:19:131:19:16

I think I'm pretty safe with our next course, but anyway!

1:19:161:19:18

Michel, dive into that, tell us what you think.

1:19:181:19:20

But this cut of meat, particularly,

1:19:201:19:22

a lot of people in the UK won't really know about this

1:19:221:19:25

cut of meat, but in France, it's hugely popular.

1:19:251:19:27

Absolutely, it is an all-time favourite.

1:19:271:19:29

And I remember an anecdote - my father being asked

1:19:291:19:31

what would be his last request, his last meal.

1:19:311:19:34

And with a glint in his eye, he did actually say, "A piece of skirt",

1:19:341:19:37

and that's what this is called. This is called "skirt steak".

1:19:371:19:40

Are you sure that's what he meant?

1:19:401:19:41

LAUGHTER

1:19:411:19:43

An absolutely cracking plate of food, Jason.

1:19:481:19:51

Now, when Michelle Ryan faced her Food Heaven or dreaded Food Hell,

1:19:511:19:55

she was certainly hoping for cheesecake rather than crab.

1:19:551:19:58

But did she end up with a cheesy grin or a crabby frown?

1:19:581:20:00

Let's find out.

1:20:001:20:02

Right, it's that time of the show to find out

1:20:021:20:04

whether Michelle will be facing Food Heaven or Food Hell.

1:20:041:20:07

Food Heaven, of course, would be all this lot put together into all that,

1:20:071:20:11

which is a lovely baked-style American cheesecake

1:20:111:20:15

with fresh raspberries, chocolate, and all that kind of stuff in there.

1:20:151:20:18

-Looks good.

-Looks amazing.

1:20:181:20:19

Alternatively, this does, for me, really.

1:20:191:20:21

This is the king crab, or king crab claws.

1:20:211:20:23

Wonderful in one of my favourite dishes

1:20:231:20:25

which is Singapore chilli crab with egg fried rice.

1:20:251:20:28

What do you think these lot have decided?

1:20:281:20:30

I think it's going to be the crab,

1:20:301:20:32

but I might be trying to take this with me to the theatre!

1:20:321:20:34

I think you've just written your own script,

1:20:341:20:36

because that's what these two have chosen as well!

1:20:361:20:38

So, you have got king crab. That's what you've got.

1:20:381:20:41

It was 6-1, the vote.

1:20:411:20:43

There you go.

1:20:431:20:45

Right, now, if you can peel me the ginger, Madhur, that would be great.

1:20:451:20:48

All right, I will do that.

1:20:481:20:49

Try not to take as long as it did to make the omelettes,

1:20:491:20:52

-but other than that...

-I'll take even longer!

1:20:521:20:54

The king crabs that we've got here, these are amazing, these things.

1:20:541:20:58

Cold-water king crabs.

1:20:581:20:59

What you need to do is, you just cut these through the shells.

1:20:591:21:03

Now, they're actually very simple to prepare.

1:21:031:21:05

So, if you can get hold of them, that is.

1:21:051:21:08

But they're not the easiest things to get hold of, particularly in the UK.

1:21:081:21:12

They're sold a lot in America, but they're wonderful. Quite expensive.

1:21:121:21:16

-OK, how much would that cost?

-That?

1:21:161:21:18

-About 30 quid.

-OK.

1:21:181:21:20

Quite a fair bit of money.

1:21:201:21:23

But what it does is, they produce this... Sorry!

1:21:231:21:26

I just hit her with a bit of crab juice!

1:21:261:21:29

But they've got these amazing sort of...

1:21:291:21:32

This huge amount of flesh inside.

1:21:321:21:34

That's the key to this.

1:21:341:21:35

So, we're going to take this mixture now and I'm going to chop up

1:21:351:21:38

this bit here, while the guys are preparing the sauce to go with it.

1:21:381:21:42

Now, if I just chop this up and get this on, first of all.

1:21:421:21:46

Chuck me that little, small bottle there.

1:21:461:21:49

-The small one?

-Yes. The other one.

-The other one, sorry!

1:21:491:21:52

One out of two ain't bad, there you go! Just put a little bit of this.

1:21:521:21:56

And we just start, really, to get this on,

1:21:561:21:58

because what we need to do is cut...

1:21:581:22:00

He took my knife.

1:22:001:22:01

He's always taking knives!

1:22:011:22:04

-She's started.

-Sorry. May I reach across?

1:22:041:22:06

I think I might like this, though, because it sounds like

1:22:061:22:08

it's got a lot of meat in it.

1:22:081:22:10

Because some crabs are quite small, and not so much meat in...

1:22:101:22:13

But it has, and that's the key to this, really.

1:22:131:22:16

Particularly the king crab. They've got huge claws.

1:22:161:22:18

And where they're caught, there's masses of them.

1:22:181:22:21

They literally roam around on the bottom of the ocean.

1:22:211:22:24

There's huge quantities of them.

1:22:241:22:27

But this dish is almost like street food in Singapore.

1:22:271:22:30

Over in Singapore, it's their most traditional dish, really, I suppose.

1:22:301:22:34

Singapore chilli crab.

1:22:341:22:36

But it is as popular as fish and chips is over here.

1:22:361:22:40

But it is fantastic.

1:22:401:22:42

You do get some amazing sort of chilli crab over there.

1:22:421:22:45

So, you just break this open

1:22:451:22:46

and then what we can do... I'll do one last one.

1:22:461:22:50

And then, we'll literally throw all this lot in.

1:22:521:22:55

And this is the key to this.

1:22:571:22:58

It's like street food, but you get this together with...

1:22:581:23:00

One thing I found fascinating in Singapore,

1:23:001:23:03

-I don't know if you've ever been?

-No, I'd love to go.

1:23:031:23:06

They do the Singapore chilli crab,

1:23:061:23:08

but also they do this, like, lemon or lime drink

1:23:081:23:10

which comes in a plastic bag with a drawstring handle and a straw.

1:23:101:23:14

-Because it's so humid over there, you need something refreshing.

-Yeah.

1:23:141:23:17

So, this knocks you out and the lime or the lemon drink is

1:23:171:23:21

so delicious, right.

1:23:211:23:23

Bit of garlic, some chilli, ginger in there.

1:23:231:23:25

I apologise to Matt.

1:23:251:23:27

I have to kiss Matt later and I'm probably going to be a bit garlicky.

1:23:271:23:31

Put more garlic in then!

1:23:311:23:33

And then we've got a load of different things here.

1:23:331:23:35

We've got tomato sauce. There we go.

1:23:351:23:37

Is that the one you made earlier?

1:23:371:23:39

Yes, that's the one we did. We've got some sugar,

1:23:391:23:43

Thai fish sauce.

1:23:431:23:45

Hoisin sauce.

1:23:451:23:47

-This is the basis of the chilli crab.

-Wow!

1:23:481:23:51

Water, because otherwise it's going to catch on the bottom.

1:23:511:23:54

Keep the pan nice and hot.

1:23:541:23:56

And then some of this chilli sauce.

1:23:561:23:59

So you see, you get all that mixture together

1:23:591:24:01

and what you need to do is just bring it to the boil.

1:24:011:24:05

And cook it very, very quickly on a high heat.

1:24:061:24:09

And that's going to be cooked.

1:24:091:24:11

It takes about three minutes to cook.

1:24:111:24:13

Meanwhile, over here, the guys have done egg fried rice.

1:24:131:24:17

I'll move that over there.

1:24:171:24:18

So, the egg fried rice,

1:24:181:24:20

you take a little bit of groundnut oil from here.

1:24:201:24:23

-Cold, cooked rice. That's the key for this one.

-Right.

1:24:231:24:26

There you go.

1:24:271:24:29

In that goes.

1:24:291:24:31

If it's not cold, it's going to stick together. So, it needs to be cold.

1:24:311:24:35

What do you eat between a matinee, what do you have?

1:24:361:24:40

Anything!

1:24:401:24:41

Anything!

1:24:411:24:43

Um, salads, soups, um, yeah, something quite light

1:24:431:24:48

but then, quite often, cupcakes.

1:24:481:24:49

People keep bringing cupcakes at the moment.

1:24:491:24:52

It's quite trendy, aren't they?

1:24:521:24:53

Like, cupcakes, that kind of stuff.

1:24:531:24:55

But cheesecake.

1:24:551:24:57

Cheesecake, well, that's pretty serious cheesecake there.

1:24:571:25:00

We'll just get this nice and hot.

1:25:011:25:03

That's the key to that one.

1:25:031:25:05

It's coming to the boil, which is pretty good. All right?

1:25:071:25:09

So, with the egg fried rice, you just sort of almost...

1:25:091:25:12

You see, it's starting to colour, just a little bit?

1:25:121:25:15

We've got our eggs here, then we can throw in our onions now.

1:25:151:25:18

They can go in.

1:25:181:25:20

I suppose you mustn't overcook it?

1:25:201:25:21

Because sometimes when I cook rice, it goes a bit dry.

1:25:211:25:24

The secret of it, it's already cooked, it's cooked and cold,

1:25:241:25:26

-that's the key to this.

-Right.

-So, in we go with the coriander.

1:25:261:25:30

One egg.

1:25:311:25:32

Then, this is where you can add a little bit of this sesame oil.

1:25:331:25:37

Tiny bit.

1:25:371:25:39

Then, very quickly, you see how this lot comes together?

1:25:391:25:42

-That looks good.

-So, keep the pan nice and hot.

1:25:421:25:45

-Keep it on a high heat.

-Right.

1:25:451:25:48

Shall I give this a stir?

1:25:491:25:51

Yeah, just let it come down a bit, yeah.

1:25:511:25:54

If you want to stir it, you can stir it!

1:25:571:26:00

That's all you get, there you go.

1:26:001:26:02

And that cooks nicely.

1:26:041:26:06

And then, literally, we can then grab our bowls...

1:26:061:26:08

..which we've got on here.

1:26:101:26:12

So...

1:26:131:26:15

that, you just leave as it is.

1:26:151:26:18

So, you've got this egg fried rice.

1:26:191:26:24

Now, the secret behind this is, at this point,

1:26:241:26:26

you take the lid off, and this is where...

1:26:261:26:29

it depends how strong you want it, and you heavily reduce it down,

1:26:291:26:32

because at this stage, it reduces and reduces

1:26:321:26:35

and gets hotter and hotter.

1:26:351:26:37

Smells really good!

1:26:371:26:38

And you can have it really, really hot,

1:26:381:26:40

which is intense sort of flavour,

1:26:401:26:42

but these bits are really nice to eat, you see the body part of it?

1:26:421:26:46

They are really nice to sort of dive into, these ones.

1:26:461:26:49

But at this point, not only does it get hotter as it reduces down,

1:26:491:26:53

-it gets more sticky.

-Right.

1:26:531:26:54

So, with this, really, it's like proper finger food, really,

1:26:541:26:58

you just want to dive in. You can see the meat in that crab claw is cooked.

1:26:581:27:02

-Mm-hm.

-And you just...

1:27:021:27:06

serve it like this.

1:27:061:27:07

And really, wherever you go, I think restaurants in Singapore

1:27:071:27:10

are judged by this dish and this dish alone, really,

1:27:101:27:14

the Singapore chilli crab.

1:27:141:27:16

But this is one of my favourite recipes, really,

1:27:161:27:19

to go with this, it's hot and spicy, but...

1:27:191:27:22

I saw them making it with raw, live crab,

1:27:221:27:26

you just cut it up right there and put the sauce on.

1:27:261:27:30

They do, it's proper street food,

1:27:301:27:32

but you know, I thought we'd use these lovely king crabs,

1:27:321:27:36

which are actually quite expensive, but...

1:27:361:27:39

Go on, dive into those, take a bit of meat out of that, that bit there,

1:27:391:27:43

-dive in.

-Let's see...

-Let's see.

-..how wonderfully healthy it is.

1:27:431:27:48

See what do you think.

1:27:521:27:54

-Mmm!

-It's crab meat, but not as you know it.

1:27:541:27:56

Because that crab is absolutely spectacular,

1:27:561:27:58

if you can get hold of it.

1:27:581:27:59

-So tender!

-Yeah, it's really soft.

-Happy with that?

-Lovely.

1:27:591:28:02

Glad to see you enjoyed it, Michelle.

1:28:071:28:08

That's all we've got time for on today's Best Bites,

1:28:081:28:10

if you'd like to try to cook any of the delicious dishes

1:28:101:28:13

you've seen on today's programme, you can find all the studio recipes

1:28:131:28:16

from today's show on our website - just log on to bbc.co.uk/recipes.

1:28:161:28:20

There are loads of great ideas on there for you to choose from.

1:28:201:28:24

So, have a lovely week and get cooking!

1:28:241:28:26

I'll see you very soon, bye for now.

1:28:261:28:28

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