Episode 132 Saturday Kitchen Best Bites

We have classic cuisine in store for you today,

here on Saturday Kitchen's Best Bites.

Welcome to the show.

We've got the chefs, the celebrities,

and some of the best food you'll see all week.

Coming up on today's show...

the original Roux scholar Andrew Fairlie

treats us to a duo of lobster.

He creates not one, but two amazing recipes,

first, a lobster served with a warm lime and herb butter sauce,

as well as a lobster salad with a tangy mango dressing.

And we go back to an early edition of Saturday Kitchen where

Tony Tobin makes a perfect party dish...crispy wontons.

He fills the wontons with a home-made spicy tomato chutney

and goat's cheese, and serves them with smoked aubergine puree

and a tomato vinaigrette.

Henry Harris joins us to cook a wild Welsh sea trout.

He pan-fries it and serves it with artichokes, peas and sorrel,

with some tomatoes, mint and creme fraiche salad.

And Andi Peters faces food heaven or food hell.

Will he get his food heaven,

banana crepe souffle with sauteed bananas and banana ice cream,

or will he get his dreaded food hell,

courgette risotto with tempura courgette flowers?

And you can find out what he gets to eat at the end of today's show.

But first, Hairy Biker Dave Myers is here with a celebration of

regional English produce. So, bring on the buffalo.

Well, it's a fillet of water buffalo,

but what we're doing is I'm making a bone marrow crust.

Now, you can do this with fillet steak,

but the bone marrow kind of biscuit really supercharges it.

-Bone marrow biscuits!

-Yeah!

-That's a bit fancy for you, isn't it?

-No, it's good.

-First, we've got a buffalo.

-Yeah, and a fondant potato.

Fondant, basically, is a potato that's cooked golden in stock

-and butter, so would you prep me tater?

-What did you say there, Myers?

-You went "fon-dont."

-"Fon-dont," fondant.

-You did!

-One does.

Steady now, steady!

First off, I'm going to barrel me buffalo.

-Ho-ho!

-This is very fancy for you, though, isn't it, fondant potatoes?

Well, in the new programme, we actually cook against

in, like, competitive fashion, stars of Michelin...you know,

-chefs of Michelin star or, you know, equivalent.

-Yeah.

I'll just twist that and give it a roly-poly.

So, how do they feel when they're competing against you, then?

There was some surprises. They're really generous, actually.

Most chefs, you get tips, they tell you what to do...

-I've got it stuck.

-Here, pass it over.

-A top tip, actually.

You know what you do? You get a rolling pin, James, and...

Ooh, you shouldn't have done that!

No, I don't do it like that!

-PANEL LAUGHS

-There you go. Don't worry.

-Right,

Once you've barrelled your buffalo...

Oh, God, man! What's that?!

It's not finished yet!

Oh, gosh, I should hope not!

Fine dining! Right, this has been barrelled in clingfilm, so,

what we do now is put it in the fridge, leave it to chill

for kind of a couple of hours.

And it produces a really nice, round, barrelled form.

You see, now, the programme,

-it concentrates very specifically on counties in Britain.

-Yeah.

And we found that each county... like, I'm proud to be Cumbrian,

he's proud to be from Northumberland, it has a regional identity.

So, we've got kind of like the best of traditional food,

but, in each county, we found

great producers like mad things like the man in, you know, Somerset...

-Yeah, that's smashing. Yeah, yeah.

-Do we need the butter?

-Half a pound of butter.

-Half a pound of butter.

-Throw it in, yeah?

-Or 250g. No, more than that, James.

-Go on, James, get it in.

-Come on, James.

You've never been shy with the butter, dude. Go on.

-Straight in, yeah?

-Yeah.

-Next?

Some thyme and a clove of garlic.

I've got two little roundels there, and I'll make me bone marrow crust.

-Now, the meat, particularly, it's a slightly different colour.

-Yeah.

Hopefully, people can see that at home, but, it is a different colour.

It's really healthy eating.

It's low in cholesterol, it's full of vitamins,

it's kind of like venison, but it really does taste nice and beefy.

-Yeah.

-So, this guy, where does it come from?

-This is from Somerset.

-Oh, right.

It's one of those producers we found, you know, like a food hero.

He was a dairy farmer and he went into producing buffalo for meat,

but this one actually comes from Laverstoke Park.

Jody Scheckter, the racing driver, is now producing buffalo meat and, um...

You've never seen faster meat in your life!

I'll tell you what, they're difficult to catch! Phwoar!

Now, it is very good for you, innit? It's very good.

Oh, it's brilliant, but you can do this with fillet steak,

but buffalo, it's...you'll find out, it's super tasty.

Oh, just a couple of carrots on, James.

Now, these bones, they've been roasted for about an hour

and, you know, it's like in France

when you get a piece of bone marrow that you can dip the marrow out

and mix it with your bits and pieces, and your steak, it's lovely.

And you've got something for the dog.

I've got a cat.

Well, it can lick the bones. It's fine. Don't be pedantic.

-But, you know, I'm just saying!

-Do you think...?

The reason why I think Britain's so good is that it's

-so diverse from county to county.

-Yeah, it is, James.

It's important to have seasons as well, cos different seasons,

-you've got great produce at different seasons.

-Oh, yeah!

Well, Britain is seasonal.

We've got seasons, and the farmers do make good use of that.

-Put breadcrumbs in here with the bone marrow...

-I think that's been

a great thing as well, you know, about the journey

that we've done across 30 counties, is that the passion

and care and attention to detail that the producers have,

they love it, and it's just fabulous, man.

I never thought I'd see the day where you guys do

-bone marrow crusts.

-Well, you know!

Well, we've learnt as we've been going through the programme,

you know, we've learnt from the chef guys, you know,

we're doing restaurant style dishes.

-Melted butter.

-Yeah.

-And this one in particular, the bone marrow crust...

There's a mate of ours called Terry Laybourne up in Newcastle

-and he's...

-He'll hate us cos he's not in the programme,

but we just nicked his idea!

We didn't but we didn't do Northumberland, did we?

So, remind us what's in here.

-Right, there's bone marrow, butter, breadcrumbs and parsley.

-Right.

We mix that up.

-Leave that to one side.

-Thank you.

Thank you.

-How's the fondant?

-The fondant's happening here.

-When that's golden, flip it over and fill it up with stock.

-Yes, Chef.

Now, this is a baking tray...

Hurry up, James, hurry up!

-Right.

-..on which we spread out this bone marrow.

Yeah.

Well, you know, people are really, really proud of their kind of...

-of their county and what it's got to offer.

-Yeah.

When we first go to a county, we turn up in a town...

Do you want me to put that beef on?

-Oh, no! I've got to season it first!

-Oh, sorry, Chef!

Season it with a bit of oil, lovely.

-Yeah.

-There you go.

This has to be quite thin, because I'm going to cut this into biscuits.

-Right.

-You'd never get them in your tea, though, would you?

Well, you wouldn't want to dip a bone marrow biscuit in your, you know,

Mr Cox's tea that everybody knows about, would you, really?

You could dip it in Bovril.

PANEL LAUGH

-There, you see!

-That's genius!

-Michelin star football food!

-I put it back up here.

-Why not?

-Chelsea will...

Chelsea will be rolling it out, exactly.

-Now...

-So, you've got that in there.

-Yeah, now, when this has gone hard...

-Yeah.

-..as you'll see...

..you can cut biscuits out.

Now, that's searing nicely. Now, what I want to do next is...

I would let this go browner, by the way,

but I don't think we've got time, so in we go with the stock.

Yeah, it will need about kind of 45 minutes to simmer,

till the potatoes are kind of really soft and golden,

which I did do before and I did them myself.

Right, so we cut a biscuit out with a cutter.

I love this. It's dead clever.

But, you know, when you go to a county,

each county has its own kind of traditional food.

You know, like, you go to Shropshire and there's a fidget pie.

You know, the Somerset... I've lost me biscuit now.

-They're in your ring!

-Now, look, see.

-There you go.

That's a bone marrow biscuit. Pop that on your bully beef,

-or your water buffalo.

-Yeah.

I nearly forget myself then.

Put that on there. We cook this against Richard Guest,

-who was a chef we cooked with in the Castle Hotel in Taunton.

-Right.

But we did, like, a water buffalo Rossini.

-Now, bung that in the oven, six to eight minutes.

-Six to eight minutes.

The bone marrow will supercharge the water buffalo

and it's just going to be heaven. Medium-rare.

We've got our fondant potatoes here.

These are, I have to say, fondant potatoes, they are delicious.

They are the most luxurious form of eating

-a tater in the history of taterdom.

-They're cooked in chicken stock.

-They are wonderful.

-Yeah, chicken stock, butter, thyme, and garlic.

So, we just put those on the plate.

We don't need two, but we'll have two cos they're lovely.

Have you got your beef there?

But some of the producers we have now...

You see, I think that, in Britain, we've got such an advantage

over France and Italy, because we experiment with food.

The farmers have diversified.

You know, we've got farmers in Hereford producing cassis,

snails, mutton, the most wonderful farms,

-and we need to support them.

-Well, I think

it's part of the multicultural society that we live in,

in Britain, and we tend to embrace that more readily than

perhaps other European countries do, you know,

and I think that's brilliant.

We've got other people's ideas creeping in

and some of the young chefs in the programme,

they're just absolutely amazing.

So, when's the new programme out, then?

Monday night, 5.15, every night for six weeks, 30 programmes.

It was an epic...

Dude! Dude! Not to mention the book that accompanies the series!

All these tips and recipes from traditional to fancy,

-the techniques, the knowledge, it's all there.

-You name it, it's in.

It's a full-on foodie book.

And, as everybody knows, what goes with buffalo?

-Carrots.

-BBC2, Monday.

BBC2, Monday, 5.15pm, look at that!

Remind us of what that is again.

That's a water buffalo fillet with a bone marrow crust,

-proper fondant potatoes, and just buttered baby carrots.

-Easy as that.

There we go and we get to dive into this.

-Have a seat over here.

-Thank you.

Dive into that.

-It's the meat of the future, Brian.

-"The meat of the future, Brian!"

-OK, here we go.

-I mean, where you live, in America,

-they've been eating buffalo for years.

-Yeah, we eat it all the time.

It is wonderful stuff.

We have to go and kill our own, though, most of the time.

The thing with the fillet

-is you don't want to overcook it.

-No, it's exactly the same as for

beef fillet, but it's tasty,

-but the bone marrow really gives it something.

-Yeah, yeah, good.

Yeah. The fondant potato?

-Worth the effort, I think, at the end of it.

-I'm going to taste it.

I'm not a potato person, but I'm going to taste it.

-This is cooked in about three kilos of butter.

-I'm working.

Keep working, but it is like a very, very rich roast potato, I think.

-Yeah, you only have one.

-Yeah.

-Oh, yeah.

-See, I've cut down...

-That's very good.

-..I'm not so big any more.

-Not so big,

-you've gone all fancy, there you go.

-Ladies...

And that's probably the only time I've ever been told to use

more butter, but it did produce a great fondant potato, though.

Coming up, I'll make a classic Yorkshire dessert

for Jessica Hynes, after Rick Stein travels to Lincolnshire

and cooks a classic rabbit pie.

-Thank you.

-Is that enough?

-Yeah, that's just the job.

RICK STEIN: The people in Louth in Lincolnshire are really protective

about their street market in the centre of the town.

It's a social occasion that's, sadly, fast disappearing in the country.

I've come here for the local game sold at knockdown prices

and, of course, there's the humour, an essential part of street trading.

And two brace of hare.

-Yeah, I sell them in fours.

-Singles, right.

-By the soles.

-Right.

-On their own.

-One at a time.

-That's it, job done.

Here you are, love.

'What does it mean to the town to have a market like this?'

'I'm not blowing me own trumpet, but I don't think 50% of these people

'would have come to Louth today if there wasn't a market.'

Hares!

Here you are love, take your pick. Two hares.

'New regulations keep sort of, like...'

tightening the belt a bit.

How much longer they're going to let us sell...?

Well, I wouldn't say by the pound, but we sell by the bucket, but

whether we shall ever have to, sort of like, measure everything out.

It just, you know, I mean...

The people here just don't care, as long as they get a bunch of carrots,

they don't care whether it weighs half a kilo,

two pounds or what.

As long as they've got what they want, that's it, and that's what

we're here for, to give them what they want.

-Bloody carrots.

-What?!

Bloody carrots, aren't they, when it's done with it?

Here you are, look, carrots.

Don't swear.

And this rabbit pie is actually very, very nice.

It's the sort of dish I've been looking for in my travels

the length and breadth of Britain to be found in pubs.

You know, this is good pub food.

I mean, I've got to say, you'd find it easier to find something like

beef rendang in the average British pub than

a good old-fashioned rabbit pie, and why?

Because this is the sort of food that, surely,

people coming into this country long to find and so rarely do,

and it's just so easy to make, I mean, you just take

a deep casserole dish and melt some butter in the bottom of it and,

previously to that, you just dust some portions of rabbit with

seasoned flour and just add them to the casserole to brown nicely.

And then add some bacon, some just ordinary streaky bacon,

nice fatty bacon, you need plenty of fat for this

because rabbit is quite lean, really.

Turn those over and then add what we call a mirepoix,

it's just a French word for chopped, flavouring vegetables.

In this case, just some big pieces of carrot and onion,

just to add flavour.

The next thing to add is some thyme and that's the sort of

dominant flavour in this stew, so about two good sprigs of thyme.

And then another flavouring ingredient which

I love in these sort of pies, a bit of lemon zest,

it works a treat, and now some stock.

Just ordinary chicken stock,

you don't need to have masses of flavour there cos there will be lots

of flavour in all that rabbit, thyme, bacon, lemon, mmm, that's good!

And now seasoning, just salt and pepper.

And then just leave that to simmer for about an hour.

Gentle, gentle simmer cos game does need quite long cooking.

So, while the rabbit's simmering away, I'm going

to make some forcemeat balls, which I just think are lovely in the pie.

Now, I've taken some suet, streaky bacon, thyme, parsley and lemon zest.

Now, I'm just adding this all to some breadcrumbs.

I'm just going to bind that up with an egg.

That's just here.

And a bit of salt and pepper.

And some salt, there we go, and some pepper.

And now mix that together.

Quite an interesting thing about forcemeat, as we call it.

It came from the French meaning farce about the 14th century and,

to our language, you call farce meat, forcemeat.

It's the same word as the...

I'm just going to flour my hands now, cos it's just a little bit sticky.

..the same word as farce meaning a sort of a play with rather

a slim plot, padded out with lots of slapstick.

It's a bit like what forcemeat is,

you know, it's a way of padding out expensive protein.

It's sort of poor people's food, but absolutely lovely.

I just love making these little balls, it's like, um, you know,

it's like making mud pies as a child.

Actually, I think it's the nicest thing in the whole dish

when you open that crust and there's these lovely smelling, thymey,

lemony balls of forcemeat just floating on the top of that pie.

That's the biz!

Once it's simmered, put the rabbit pieces into a pie dish

and pour over that lovely gravy with all those vegetables.

Then place those forcemeat balls on top.

They'll really swell up and help keep the pastry off the gravy,

so they're twice blessed.

Lay the shortcrust pastry over the dish and trim it.

It's my mum's recipe this, it's very crumbly, and always looks

so comfortingly home-made when it comes out of the oven.

Crimp the edges, cut a little hole in the middle to let the steam out,

and then egg-wash it to give it that lovely golden colour.

You know, it's funny.

After all the thousands of miles we did travelling around,

we'd have bets on whether or not they'd have rabbit pie on the menu,

but we never found it.

So, after about 25 minutes, out of the oven

and some big generous portions for everybody.

Onto the plate, just look at that lovely steam coming off,

I mean, just the smell of it is so lovely.

And you can't help feeling as you sort of serve it out

and you look at it and you savour it, that this

is really good old-fashioned food and you sort of ask yourself,

"Well, what is fashion in food?" I mean, if it precludes dishes like

this, if it means that pubs all up

and down the country are serving sort of Thai food or Chinese

food in preference to something like this, fashion is quite barmy,

because this is just sensational.

It's quarter past seven

and I've just been off for a couple of pints of beer with David

and the crew, but they've all gone off to see Planet Of The Apes.

I don't really want to see Planet Of The Apes,

I'm not really interested in it.

So, I'm just taking Chalky for a walk, but...

well, I don't know what to do, cos I don't want to go out

and have anything to eat, cos I had an enormous curry

in Bradford at lunchtime, I'm in Leeds now.

People think that, you know, being on the road's quite glamorous, but,

well, this is the reality, really.

I don't want to go to bed.

I suppose I'll just walk Chalky round and round

endless city blocks in Leeds.

I think, to be honest, I'd rather be out with the dog too.

Now, just like Rick and his pastry, a lot of my recipes

come from my family, particularly, my gran

and my aunt who were really the ones that taught me how to cook,

as well as my mother, of course.

I've just got my shortcrust pastry, very similar to Rick's there.

Now, it's very, very easy. Now, I'm going to show you that now.

I'm going to make a traditional Yorkshire curd tart.

Now, Yorkshire's famous for cheese as well as lots of other things, but

it was always a dish that was always made up with the leftover curd.

But my grandma used to make her own curd and

I'm going to show you the pastry that she used to make.

It's very similar to what Rick made.

We've got some flour here, plain flour.

It was always double the quantity flour to fat,

that was just a simple recipe. Now, there's no need to change it.

We've got in here, but it was always half.

So, you have 200g of plain flour, 100g of fat,

and it was generally margarine, but, nowadays, butter, of course.

And then lard, which you kind of don't often get very much,

but, because I was brought up on a farm,

what she used to do was make this pastry like this.

Now, the idea is just use the tops of your fingers,

just rub this together until all of this starts to come to

a sort of light breadcrumby style texture.

Add enough water to bring it together,

keep it in the fridge, roll it out and I've lined

and pre-baked blind my little tart tin there.

So, this has been lined already. Now, I said earlier...

Now, you were brought up on a... Was it your parents have

a big farming connection as well, like mine?

Well, actually, it's my mother's mother,

-so it was my grandmother who actually grew up on a farm...

-Right.

..in North Wales on a sheep farm.

But now your mother still lives on the farm.

And then, yeah, when my great-uncle, who was my grandmother's brother,

he was a farmer and then, when he died, he, um...

the farming basically stopped.

-Yeah.

-But my mum decided to move to the farm,

that was after I left home, but my mum decided to move back to the farm

and sort of save it from crumbling down, and so she lives there now.

Now, how did they get on?

Cos you actually turned vegetarian for a while, didn't you?

-How does a farming family...

-Well, when you come from butchers, exactly!

Were you rebelling or what was that?

No, it was just genuine interest and kind of like desire to think,

"Oh, well, maybe it's going to be quite a healthy thing possibly

"to be a vegetarian," and I kind of, um, I just love vegetarian food

-and, you know, all kinds of food, so I had a try at it.

-How long were you?

I lasted for about a year and my mum was very cynical and suspicious

and greeted it with kind of humorous,

"You're a vegetarian? Yeah, right!"

And, um, so was very doubtful that I would follow through.

Was it the bacon sandwich that brought you back or not?

Well, actually, no, I was pregnant then with my second child

and I didn't know at the time I was pregnant

and I was at a barbecue and there was this plate of spare ribs and,

suddenly, the urge to eat them just came over me.

If there had been a person in-between me and the plate of spare ribs,

-I would have eaten that person to get to them.

-Well, hopefully, not this.

-Not yet, anyway.

-So, I was just, yeah...

I'll just show you what you've got in here.

Now, this is just warm milk,

full-fat milk to make your own curd, lemon juice,

the juice of two lemons,

warm it up till it's just over blood temperature, that's what you want.

So, stick your finger in it, once it's warm,

and then we whisk this together and it actually starts to curd up.

-Right.

-You can see that on there, look.

-So, that's just milk and...?

-Full-fat milk...

-Full-fat milk.

-..and lemon juice.

-Lemon juice.

-Allow this to cool down.

-How much lemon juice did you put in?

-That's two lemons.

-Two lemons, right.

-Allow it to cool down and I've

got some, it's in the fridge. What you need to do, once it's cool...

pass it through, I mean, I've got one of these, like,

-a kitchen piece of paper or a tea towel or something like that.

-Yeah.

Now, what you'll end up with is fresh curd. I'll show you that.

Now, what you end up with is this.

-Wow!

-Fresh, thick curd.

-And is there any...? There's no sugar in there?

Nothing yet, nothing yet. This is just the lemon juice and the milk,

-that's it. And you're making your own curd.

-You have to heat the milk

before you put the lemons in?

Yeah, just heat it up, exactly, just heat it up, exactly that.

Now, what you can do now, is then you can incorporate

the rest of our ingredients which we've got in here.

-Full-fat butter...

-Right.

-..obviously.

Two eggs.

Now, this goes in. Now...not the shells.

Two eggs.

Mix this all together.

Now, this is our Yorkshire curd mix.

Now, traditionally, this would be always,

as my granny used to make it, with a bit of rose-water.

She used to add purple violets.

Do you remember purple violet?

HE LAUGHS

Purple violets and green angelica she used to put on stuff,

but rose-water, this used to be in a lot of her cakes,

and, particularly, Yorkshire curd.

It was always traditionally put in there.

It's just...it's got a very, very strong smell...

-Turkish delight.

-..and a very strong flavour.

Exactly. Exactly what Tony says.

Turkish delight, that's the same taste.

And then, over the years, people have put this stuff in,

currants, which I'm going to do now.

And then you take the whole lot and pop it in...

to our baked flan case, like that. Make sure it's nice and thick.

-Two eggs?

-Two eggs, and this gets baked.

Cos it's got the lemon there, it's going to firm up even more,

-then you bake...

-There's no sugar in there, though.

-No sugar in it, no.

-OK.

-Because this is baked in the oven, I'm going to bake this in

the oven now for about sort of 20 minutes.

180 degrees centigrade.

About 350 Fahrenheit, just so it's gently cooked.

-And then we end up with this.

-Wow.

Now, as well as on the BBC today, once this morning,

we're going to see you again tonight, aren't we?

-Yes, I'm on Doctor Who this evening.

-Yeah, Doctor Who tonight.

-I'm so excited!

-With Doctor Who himself,

who you've recently been working with, haven't you?

Yeah, well, when I was working on Doctor Who, I mentioned that

I was writing something for the BBC and he said, "Oh, you know..."

-This is David Tennant.

-David Tennant.

And he said, "Oh, you know, is there a part in it for me?"

I was like, "Oh! Would you?" And he said, "Yeah,"

so, in principle then, he then came and did a thing that

I wrote for the BBC, so he agreed to be in that, so, yeah.

He was in a thing called Learners that I wrote for the BBC,

which is about somebody trying to pass their driving test.

He came on board as the lead driving instructor.

Didn't it take you ten years to pass your test?

It took me a long time, yeah. I took three...I had three...

I wasn't learning continuously during that time,

-but it took me three goes, yeah.

-Jessica, look at that.

That looks absolutely gorgeous.

Granny would be proud, look at it, and then you just take a tiny,

tiny bit of ice and sugar...

Over the top of there, and then a spoon...

..of whipped cream.

-That looks absolutely delicious.

-As my grandfather said, the only way

it can be made better, is if you put cream over the top.

-Thank you so much.

-Dive into that. It must be served at room temperature.

Can I? Oh, that looks absolutely delicious. There's no sugar at all?

-A little bit.

-A little bit, just a little bit.

Just about seven litres of double cream!

Mmm! HE LAUGHS

-How was it?

-So delicious!

Not the healthiest of desserts, I know,

but well worth making for a special treat.

Now, if you'd like to have a go at cooking any of

the studio recipes you've seen on today's show,

all of those recipes are just a click away at bbc.co.uk/recipes.

Today, we're looking back at some of the fantastic

cooking from the Saturday Kitchen archives,

and now it's time for a decadent shellfish treat,

thanks to the incredibly talented, two Michelin star,

Gleneagles based chef Andrew Fairlie,

and he's not just got one recipe to do,

two recipes are needed, both using lobster.

-First time on the show and, straight in, two dishes.

-Yes.

Yes, with a homage for two people, Michel and...?

Michel and Michel. Michel Guerard, where I did

-my scholarship.

-Yeah.

-And Michel Roux who sent me there.

Right, we're going to do lobster. Read through the sauce for this.

We've got some cream, butter, herbs, tarragon.

We've got some lime juice, some cream, and if you can do them,

just crack on with a basic lime and butter sauce.

I'll explain how we're doing that while we're doing it,

but this is for the smoked lobster dish.

-This is for the smoked lobster, yeah.

-But your other one, which we got...

Is a mango sauce, so that's just... We've got some Alphonso mangoes

there, which we're going to blitz in here. We're going to add some

lime juice to that with some sherry vinegar. We're going to add a little bit of hot water

to get the mangoes going and we're going to pour in some

light olive oil, a little bit of seasoning, and that's what

we're going to season the salad with.

And that's that one, OK. So, this is the smoke in the lobster business.

Yeah, so, first thing I'm going to do

-is to get these shells in to smoke.

-Yeah.

So, it's just actually the shell we smoke for this,

we don't actually smoke the meat.

And this comes from the restaurant. Did he actually smoke it in...

I mean, you're doing it in shavings and whisky barrels, but...

Well, Michel Guerard used to do it in, um...

He had a chimney where he used to burn old vines and fruit wood

-and things like that.

-Yeah.

And then he used to grill meat and grill fish over that.

Um, and it gave it this kind of really beautiful smoky flavour.

So, at the restaurant, what we started to do...

We've actually been playing around with it for a while now, um,

and, because we don't have an old-fashioned chimney,

we've just started to cold-smoke it in the restaurant,

so we're going to hot-smoke it today, but, normally, in the restaurant

-we would cold-smoke it and it would take about six hours to do.

-Right.

Now, most people looking at that meat would look at the green...

-but that's fine.

-It's the best part of the lobster.

-Yeah.

It tastes absolutely fantastic.

I'm just going to wipe my hands here.

-Here we go.

-Right. Smoky!

This is the, um, the shavings of the whisky barrels.

Yeah, so you can actually smell the kind of sweetness of the whisky.

Now, once we're finished with the barrels,

we have a deal with one of the distilleries

where we get the shavings from it.

So, this is actually hot-smoking the shells now.

-There's a sink here where you can wash your hands.

-Yeah.

There you go. Right, I've made my sauce... Basically, that's it.

You've got the lime, a little bit of cream, and the butter's been

-whisked too, just literally whisk it off the heat.

-That's fine.

If you just leave that there just now.

-We'll use that later on.

-That's that one. Then you want me to prep

a salad. I'll do a salad. Meanwhile, you're going to do the rest of it.

Again, I think people are put off by lobster

because they think it's fiddly and it's difficult to eat,

but the dishes that we're going to do today,

it's completely out of the shell.

And, again, to get the cartilage out of the claw meat, basically

you just pull the smaller claw and it just takes the cartilage out clean.

-Now, you were 20 when you went to the competition.

-Yeah.

I mean, it's just literally just happened, the 28th year,

we're both sort of judging it, it's probably the most nervous

competition and the toughest competition for chefs, isn't it?

It is absolutely, I mean, well,

I've been judging it for a couple of years now.

And I really feel for the guys, I mean, you saw it this year.

It's a terrifying experience you go through, I mean, they're all great.

I think it's the two of these that are looking at you, the two Rouxes.

He was the youngest ever to win the competition

in quite... He was not in his nappy any more, but...

I needed my nappy that day!

But I'm still extremely proud of you, for where you come from,

what you've learned,

and where you are today. Well done.

It's a thing that you talk about quite a lot, I mean,

cos it reads like a Who's Who,

isn't it, really, of chefs? This competition.

Yeah, I mean, the winners, I mean, there's some

great, great cooks out there and, as I say,

we spent three days in Germany just a couple of weeks ago.

We have a thing for those that win the scholarship,

we have a kind of Roux scholars club.

Every couple of years, Michel takes us away to exotic locations

like Gleneagles and Dubai and Italy,

so we're just back just a few days ago from Germany.

-It's a kind of study trip.

-Study trip! I heard it was like a stag do!

-It was, it was!

-It was like a stag do.

-No, we went to see...

-Your wife told me it was like a stag do!

-OK, well...

Six o'clock in the morning you were rolling in!

-No, no, that was when we were closing the bar.

-Oh, right?

No, during the day at the deer farm, and the chicken farm,

and in the brewery tasting wine, and so on and so forth.

Anyway, he's cooking, I think. I believe Andrew is cooking.

So, what have we got here? We've prepped our lobster.

Now, the chippings there, you can

buy these sort of chippings from garden centres nowadays, can't you?

-Yeah, you can.

-Look at those smoke! They just look fantastic.

Yeah, the smell... the smell really is great.

So, what I'm going to do now is

take one of these halves out.

You can see that's quite heavy smoke in it,

so what we don't want to do is to...

-I'll just put that there.

-Yeah.

We really don't want to smoke the meat too much

because it's such a delicate meat.

-I'll probably move that over there.

-Great, thanks.

HE COUGHS

So, we're just going to put a little of the lime sauce

in the bottom there.

And I'm just going to slice this lobster meat

back into the shell.

Now, while you do that, I'll just explain what our salad is.

We've got some avocado here, some mango, which I've just diced.

In the blender there we've got some mango.

And you're going to add, what, a little bit of lime to this or something?

Yeah, some, erm...

No, we're actually just... Ah, to the sauce?

Yes, a bit of sherry vinegar, a bit of lime,

-and some light olive oil.

-OK.

A touch of water or not?

Er, yeah, you will need some water, just to get the mango going.

And then we might add a bit more water at the end just to, um...

And then you add some olive oil to that. I'll get that blending.

BLENDER WHIRRS

-So, those go back in the shell.

-It goes back in the shell.

I'm just going to put a little bit of water in the bottom there.

-Just to create a bit of steam.

-So, tell us about the Gleneagles Hotel,

cos everybody knows about it, obviously, for the golf, but...

the ethos of your restaurant is still very classically French?

It is, yeah, I mean, all my training, well, most of it, was done in France.

I trained...I did a classical four-year apprenticeship

where it was... We cook really from the Escoffier Repertoire,

so it was very, very classical.

-But, I mean, the food's moved on, it's evolved.

-Yeah.

You know, these sauces, you know, Michel did this sauce 30 years ago,

it's still very relevant today. Um...

..you know, I'm not sure how long a dried carrot foam is going to be

around for, but, you know, Michel's sauce or the smoked lobster or the...

Well, I'll leave you to finish it off. There you go.

A bit of basil gone in there.

OK, so, basil, mango, vinegar...

lime juice is in there?

Lime juice is in there. You might want a little bit more in there.

We've got some herbs in there.

And, don't forget, you can also make recipes including this one

from Andrew on our website. Go to bbc.co.uk/saturdaykitchen.

You can find dishes from our previous shows

on bbc.co.uk/recipes. There you go.

Right.

So, we're just adding olive oil there

-just to emulsify the sauce.

-Yeah.

Herbs going in there at the last minute.

It's gone in.

Do you want me to pass that as well?

Yeah, if you can pass it, please.

Just let me taste it quickly, James, just for...

I'll use a sieve, there we go.

So, as well as that and everything else, you're doing a book as well.

Yeah, we're in the process of, um...

-It's the 10th anniversary of our restaurant...

-Yeah.

..next year, so we're in the process of putting a book together for that.

-Which, as you know, is very time-consuming.

-It is a bit.

Well, I'll leave you to put the lobster on the plate there.

Just serve that one and I'll be ready with this one in a second.

Just pass that.

Very good. Look at the texture. Beautiful texture!

It should be, it's your recipe!

THEY LAUGH

I've adapted it slightly.

That's your line, anyway.

THEY LAUGH

-There you go.

-OK, so, I'm going to take this...

..lobster out of there.

So, you can smell the smoke has just infused...

..into the meat there.

-Have a look at that.

-Now, what I'm going to do is just

take some of the smoking liquid

that's left in the pan,

-just to...thin that sauce down a little bit.

-Yeah.

I'm just going to put...

a little bit over the...

..over the lobster meat.

So, the meat there is just warm, it's not overcooked.

You can actually smell the smokiness from it as well.

So, that's that one. I'll leave you to finish that one.

And then for the...

lobster salad. So, we've got the avocado, the mango, the mixed salad.

-Yeah.

-A little bit of the mango dressing in there.

Beautiful summer salad.

I'm just going to take the lobster meat.

-Is he doing it right?

-Perfectly right.

Better than I used to show him.

THEY LAUGH

-There you go.

-You just finish that with the claw on the top.

-Just ignore me.

-And then just...

-The smells from this are just...

A little dribble...

of the mango sauce around the outside.

There you have it. So, remind us what that is again, Andrew.

So, here we've got the warm smoked lobster with the warm lime butter

and herb sauce.

-And here we've got the mango salad with the basil dressing.

-See!

Or the lobster salad with mango and basil dressing.

I told you at the top of the show you were in for a treat.

Check that out.

There you go. Right, you get to dive into this. Who would like first...?

THEY LAUGH

-Right, dive in.

-Oh, my word!

-Taste that.

-Dive into that.

-Which one...?

Whichever. Taste any of it. Taste the warm one first.

There you go. Go for the smart one first.

But, like you said, that's just a classic from the restaurant

where you trained when you won.

You know, it's still got it on the menu after 28 years,

that lobster lightly smoked. I was there only last year.

You know, good dishes, good recipes last forever.

Well, it's like tomato with your scallop sandwich, sorrel,

and all that sort of stuff. It should never be taken off.

When we talk about Andrew's cooking and said classic,

of course it's classic, but it's modern classic.

His recipes for the last 20 years have been fantastic.

But still keeping with what I call the heritage work...

High praise indeed. And you're not going to get any

-if you don't hurry up and eat it.

-Oh, yes!

Those dishes were spectacular and tasted fantastic.

It was his very first time on the show too and he had to cook

two great recipes for Michel Roux Snr - rather him than me!

Now, it's time for a classic serving of Floyd On Fish, and today

he starts out at sea on the hunt for whatever the fishermen can catch.

Enjoy this one.

I'm in some of the richest fishing grounds of Europe,

where over 50 varieties of fish are landed,

from lobster to John Dory and red mullet to skate,

and it's staggering to think that we, the British,

look no further than cod and plaice.

What we reject, our European neighbours relish

and they revel in interesting dishes like bouillabaisse and squid

and, of course, they drink down buckets of wine with it.

On the other hand, you know, this is a hard and dangerous job.

We don't even understand or appreciate these fellows.

As a nation, it's patently obvious we don't care too much for the catch.

Mind you, I wouldn't fancy being a fisherman,

to be out in all weathers, hell of white water,

waves with teeth like bananas, and never sure of the catch,

or the wages for that matter, and then

waiting for the net to be raised, which spells success or failure.

And now the moment of truth.

After hours of tedious trawling in bored anticipation,

what will the net reveal?

A glittering fishy feast or the garbage of the ocean's bed

spewed over the deck, which won't even justify the cost of the diesel.

Oh, gosh! It looks really grim.

I was hoping to see a shimmering net of fish and I'm absolutely

hungry and I've got to find something to cook out of this lot.

Ah, I wonder.

There'll be a monkfish, that's for sure.

Yes, there he is! Just like my old art master.

I'm absolutely famished.

Hours sitting on this blinking boat, waiting for the fish to come up,

but we've got some so I'm going to cook it.

And you couldn't get the monkfish we've got here

any fresher in the world!

It's only five minutes old, ten minutes at the absolute outside.

And, of course, we've got this sophisticated equipment here,

a little camping gas stove

and the whole boat rocking all over the place,

but I've got the monkfish going in there, little pieces of bacon, which

somebody happily brought along with them, some fresh herbs, which we must

have picked off the mast unless somebody brought them with us,

I'm not quite sure how that happened, and the bay leaf,

a bit of fresh thyme,

and a drop of wine.

Can you see all right that I've got this bit of wine

going into the fish now? Nothing should change just because we're on

the boat. There's no reason why we shouldn't continue to have

wonderful fun like we always do in the kitchen, really.

So...

the sauce has reduced sufficiently now for us to add the cream,

which I'm going to do, and the cream is going to make this thing

absolutely splendid as long as the rolling of the boat...

..doesn't cause us a great deal of...

hassle. Stir the cream into the wine and the shallots.

Lovely colours coming through there a bit, actually, now.

Plenty of cream, bubbling away to thicken up.

It's very, very difficult.

I'd hate to think what it'd be like doing this on the force nine -

this about a force nought, I should think. It doesn't count at all.

So, I'm virtually ready. I'm taking the fish out.

I have to use my fingers and...

pray that I don't drop the whole lot over...

..everything. I've got the fish onto the plate.

I now want to just, finally, to make the sauce really superb,

as if we were in one of the best restaurants in the world,

thicken this delicious sauce with an egg yolk...

..to get a really sumptuous and creamy delicious...

golden sauce. Can I show you that golden sauce?

I do think that's really rather good.

I'm going to pour it now over the fish.

And I think...

..I hope you don't mind me saying this...

but that is a really...

..elegant piece of food for a force nought gale,

with the freshest fish in the world that you could ever hope to get,

no ingredients whatsoever,

no help and everything falling all over the place.

In fact, I'm going to taste a little bit of it myself.

Although I say it myself, it is actually wonderful!

Wonderful!

MUSIC: "Peaches" by The Stranglers

'Thank heavens that's all over.

'I thought only the American Navy ran dry ships and, I must say,

'I much prefer these bluebell lined lanes to the mighty deep.

'Still, I'm a bit worried about meeting Sonia Stevenson.

'They say she's a bit grand

'and, certainly, her cooking has a formidable reputation.

'Wow, what a setting. This is much more like sailing.

'You know, Sonia Stevenson cooked at Maxim's in Paris.

'I wonder why she wanted a hake?

'I'd have thought lobster and truffles

'would have been more appropriate.'

-How do you do?

-Sonia, Keith Floyd. Lovely to see you.

Come this way.

You should have come to lunch.

I would have very much liked to but I was sort of fishing this morning.

I had to get this hake, because I know you're rather fond of hake,

and this is a locally landed one.

Incidentally, I wanted to ask you,

why a hake, not something really extravagant?

It's a lovely fish with the texture all of its own

and personality all of its own.

It's just a marvellous fish that isn't used nearly enough.

I totally agree with that.

I've also got a bottle of English wine from Devon,

-which I hope we can drink in a little while.

-With pleasure!

But it's probably a bit hot from the boot of the car

-because we've had a long journey this morning.

-We'll put it on ice.

-Excellent.

-We'll enjoy it in a minute or two, do come in.

It's really good to see you.

The last time I saw you was on the Tim Rice Show,

Friday Night and Saturday Morning,

when you were trying to get the English people to taste really

curious pieces of food, which they were rather frightened of doing.

So, Sonia.

It is an absolute delight to be in your kitchen.

Before we do anything else, I thought we should try a drop of this

Devon English wine, which I honestly haven't tried.

I'd love to know what you think about it.

Have you drunk a lot of English wine?

Some English wine. We always have a couple of wines on the wine list.

Your very good health. Thanks very much for having me.

It smells lovely.

Mmm.

-Do you drink in the kitchen while you're working?

-No.

-Never?

-No.

Afterwards, we have our barrel of beer out at the back

and a couple of glasses are given to us every evening,

and then my chef goes and gets me a pint and we down a pint.

-You down a pint.

-But not during work, it's absolutely fatal.

I'm very pleased about that,

I'm afraid I'm not quite as religious myself.

I do find pint of water every four or five minutes with some

-salt in it is very good in a hot kitchen.

-Do you?

-Yes, I do.

I drink a huge amount of it. I save the whisky until very much later.

Anyway... I'm chatting far too much.

You ought to be working away here because the cooking has to be done.

I think what I'm going to do is cut it straight through the middle

and then we can see the various...

OK. That's a beautiful looking fish, actually.

Lovely. Pale pink and moist.

This is the bit which has got... where its guts have been taken out.

If we cut down further, we want to cut into a good size cutlet,

enough for a main helping.

Of course they should buy fish with their heads on because then

they can cut the heads off and make a stock and make a little fish soup,

a bit of vermicelli or something like that, and it

doesn't need to be an extravagant Provencal soup or anything like that.

No, no.

You can also tell by looking at his eyeballs how fresh he is, too.

-Which is a useful thing.

-See if I can get through this bit here.

What we're going to do is make our base that we're going to sit

the fish on and cook in the oven.

-So if you'd like to unwrap that one.

-Right.

-I'll take this.

-That's some chopped onions, shallots or onions?

That actually is onion. That's a little bit of garlic.

Garlic optional. I love garlic and it's very good for rheumatism.

You know, I was pouring some butter into a pan on a TV programme

once using my fingers and they had thousands of letters saying,

"Oh, he uses his fingers!"

I've often tried to get people to understand that there

isn't much of a better machine except for actually slicing things.

-Do you agree with that?

-Entirely agree, yes.

Fingers were made long before spoons and people didn't die of them then.

You want this buttered paper for in a minute, don't you,

-to go over the top of the fish?

-That's right.

So we put a bit of garlic in,

as much as you like or as little as you like.

-A bit of this, which is the...

-This is the chopped onion, isn't it?

-Throw it in there, they can still see.

-I should think that's enough.

This is lemon thyme.

-Do you grow that in the garden here?

-Yes.

You can use the ordinarily dried thyme

but this has a more delicate flavour.

This whole dish has a lemony aura to it really.

So we put some of that in and then there's a bay leaf, dried bay leaf.

-Is that also from the estate, as it were?

-Yes, that's right.

And some peppercorns. We put that on the stove.

Can I do that? I've always wanted to cook in a first-class restaurant!

-That's right, the centre of that one.

-In the hot bit?

-Yes, that's right.

-I'll just have a little glass.

Right. That is going to simmer.

-We want to sweat the onion, we don't want to brown it.

-Fine.

If you brown it, you spoil the taste of this dish.

You want to melt it down.

For some of you who don't know what sweating means - melt it.

We get this bit ready. We want a bit of salt.

Salt, salt. Come along, where's the salt? You're a commis chef, quickly!

-We can't wait all day.

-It's behind us here. And pepper.

-A little bit of salt.

-Can I put some on?

-And the pepper. You pepper.

-I'll pepper.

-Oh, you see.

-There's no pepper.

-There's plenty.

-Is there enough?

-On both sides?

Yes, both sides.

Remember that, on both sides.

-That's better.

-Why is the pepper pot always empty when you want it?

Richard, here. Thanks so much.

And a little salt on the side as well. Good-oh.

Now, spoon and if you would...

-Am I going too fast?

-Stir it.

Well, we have to be careful that it doesn't burn.

I made this particular mistake by putting too much butter in.

Sonia is saying there's too much butter.

But with the vast amount of experience she has

and the capability I have to keep talking while she's disguising

any mistakes we may have made, the thing is still going to be wonderful!

So don't worry.

-Right, what's next?

-We're going to put this in the dish.

-Are you going to do it?

-Yes, you tell me, then they can all...

-Ovenproof dish.

-Ovenproof dish, ovenproof fingers.

So that's going in, the butter and the melted or sweated onions,

the lemon thyme grown on the premises and a dried bay leaf,

-probably from the premises as well.

-That's right. And into that...

-Into that.

-You're going to put the fish.

-Shall I turn it over like that?

-Yes, fine.

Jolly good idea, actually.

So they are both covered in the thing.

Sorry about our fingers

but we haven't got any better tools than those.

-A lemon.

-Cut in half?

-Into two rings. We want two rings off.

-With the...

Pith and everything.

-On top?

-That's right.

Getting some nice colours now, aren't we, with the green herbs,

yellow butter, the orange and the slightly pink fleshed fish?

-One or two peppercorns on top. We've forgotten the nutmeg.

-Ah!

-I didn't forget it, ma'am, you didn't tell me to put it in!

-I forgot.

You see, it's what customers do to us, isn't it?

That's right.

Oh, I'm to do it. I'm doing it.

You are driving woman, there's no question about that.

What's she like to work for, Richard,

is she as nice to you as she is to me?

-She's very good.

-She is good.

You'd better say that, hadn't you?

Right, on top of that the buttered paper.

-This is a dish you wouldn't ever cook with margarine, would you?

-Oh, no.

For people at home, you can't economise on this kind of thing.

No, because part of the butter is the sauce.

This is what makes the whole dish gorgeous.

And we've taken a cheap fish anyway, so we can tell our viewers,

or the viewer, Mum, if you're watching, don't forget, real butter,

because our only extravagance here is butter, isn't it?

-Yes.

-The fish is cheap.

-Herbs are cheap.

-Herbs are cheap.

-So we cover that like that.

-In it goes.

I have the honour of opening the oven, Madam.

Now we are in Devon, what I really want to do, there isn't a puddle...

What I've always wanted to do all my life

-is a sort of Walter Raleigh thing.

-Oh, no!

So you can step into the oven over the puddle and put the dish in.

I think that would make it really splendid.

Again, not too hot an oven because if you have too hot an oven,

you're are going to brown those onions,

and we want to really avoid browning them.

For people at home who get really paranoid about gas mark six

and oven 450, what do we call not too hot?

-About four.

-About four.

Three, four, that's about it.

-Have a little drink.

-That's a good idea.

-Otherwise we...

-This is something I never do.

'I couldn't help thinking she was a bit of a fibber when she said that.

'Anyway, my dear gastros,

'I bet you're feeling really envious now.

'I mean, who wants the glittering sham of frozen lobster

'when you can have Sonia's freshly cooked hake?

'Actually, I'm beginning to feel so good that if I'm not careful

'I'm going to start worrying about, and even feeling sorry for,

'the Medallion Mafia and their nasty little prawn cocktails.'

They have Yves Saint Laurent shirts.

-Are we doing anything yet?

-Yeah.

Nobody told me. I didn't know it was happening.

Right. Are you going to dish up?

-I will, actually.

-Or shall we help ourselves?

Let's help ourselves because it'll be better that way.

I was saying, on Saturday night we get the Medallion Mafia,

who've got these Yves Saint Laurent shirts open to the waist,

white suits and great medals.

They require a different kind of eating from the serious

and family kind of food that we've got here.

You couldn't call this haute cuisine by any means, but you could

call it very, very authentic, delicious, beautiful cooking.

I'm fascinated by the fact,

and I'm very pleased to see, you are not garnishing this.

There is a garnishing in a way, the bay leaves,

the herbs and things are really nice.

But it annoys me intensely

when people with a beautiful dish of very simple food,

they then insist on sticking tomato pieces and rings of cucumber.

-Does it annoy you?

-Yes.

If you've got a hidden tomato in the sauce,

by all means you can encourage them

to think tomato with your nice, beautiful rose.

But if there is no tomato at all,

just leave the tomatoes out of the decoration.

That's right.

This needs to be tasted really, doesn't it?

Isn't it good to have some spankingly fresh fish, too?

I was just thinking that when I cut it. It held together for a minute.

It's beautiful.

There's something about this sunshiny day today, about the colour

of the sauce, it's very pale yellow, and the whiteness of the fish.

It seems to match your character, to my mind.

Very open, friendly and loving.

You've been working all afternoon, all lunchtime, all morning,

you're still smiling, still happy.

You obviously love the business but...

Food encourages one, you see, to feel...

It gives me tremendous pleasure playing with food. I used to do...

Mud, I used to play with mud and make mud pies when I was very small.

I don't know if this is a good introduction to being a cook

but still, it's the texture, the playing with food that I love.

Again, one of the things about fish, you get so many different textures.

A Dover sole is so utterly different to this.

As monkfish, for example.

Many more varieties than you have with meat.

You tend to have your beef, lamb and your chicken.

Fish can have infinite varieties.

ROUSING BRASS BAND MUSIC

What a great piece from Mr Keith Floyd there.

As ever on Best Bites, we're looking back at some of the classic cooking

from the Saturday Kitchen archives.

Still to come on today Best Bites, Sophie Grigson battles against the

eco-pan wielding Arthur Potts Dawson in the omelette challenge today.

Will Arthur have an unfair advantage or will Sophie beat him into shape?

Find out a little later on.

Henry Harris cooks wild Welsh sea trout for us.

He pan-fries and serves it with artichokes, peas and sorrel,

with a tomato, mint and creme fraiche salad.

And Andi Peters faces his food heaven or food hell.

Will he get his food heaven,

banana crepes souffle with sauteed bananas and banana ice cream,

or his food hell,

courgette risotto with tempura courgette flowers?

You can find out what he gets to eat at the end of today's show.

First off, Tony Tobin treats us

to some party food involving a fantastic tomato chutney...

or is it jam? You decide.

What are we cooking?

OK, we're going to make wontons and stuff them with a tomato jam,

or chutney, and goat's cheese. So we need to get that on straightaway.

If you can chop up some tomatoes for me without the seeds.

Every single show I've done for the past four weeks,

since I've come back, I've done tomatoes.

You don't want the skin in, do you?

The skin's fine, just get rid of the seeds.

This is going to be for a little chutney.

Most people think chutneys are difficult to make.

-You call it a jam, don't you?

-I call this a jam, yeah.

-Yeah, you're southern.

-You call it...

-Well, I'm not, actually, I'm from the Midlands...

-That's south.

-Trust me, where I'm coming from.

-Yeah, of course.

Cos you're from right up there.

Anyway, we've got a little bit of chutney.

Start off with some garlic and a bit of onion.

Onion, some chilli here, tomatoes. I've got fruit sugar.

This fruit sugar has become quite trendy recently.

I know one of the chefs we have on here a fair bit is Mr Raymond Blanc.

He's a big fan of it as well.

He started the ball rolling.

You use it a lot for jams, those jams you need a bit more pectin in.

-It's a really natural sugar and it's great.

-Yeah, it's a fruit sugar.

There was a survey done this week, last week that I was reading -

I can't remember where I read it, in one of the papers,

saying that they surveyed some people eating fruit sugar

and cane sugar but the fruit sugar people came out with pot bellies.

-Pot bellies.

-What are you looking at me for?

-A bit like yours.

I wouldn't know, obviously I'm eating cane sugar.

Two million people watching.

THEY LAUGH

-Where are you going?

-He threatened to do that in rehearsal!

In with the tomatoes. Oh, you've come back, have you?

I've come back, yeah.

I'm going to add a little bit of ginger to that.

Very simple, bring it up to the simmer and you cook it

for about 20 to 25 minutes,

until it becomes sticky, and that's why I call it a jam.

The vinegar and the sugar, you get nice sweet and sour flavours,

the aromats come from the ginger.

You get a little bit of heat from the chilli.

-So let that simmer and I've got...

-In with the tomatoes?

In with the tomatoes. I've got some that I've already made

and cooled down here.

So we're just going to let that cook nicely,

but then it becomes really nice and sticky.

If you want to keep this, the idea is a sterilised jar, isn't it?

-That's the secret of this.

-Yeah, you can do.

-Or just make it when you need it really.

-If you could...

Also, what I'm going to serve with this is an aubergine puree. Right.

We want to make it smoky.

If you've got gas at home, put it over the flame.

-You don't like aubergines, do you?

-Aubergine puree, no, that's rank.

You will like this. So we're going to cook it in its skin.

If you make me like that, you're a genius.

I'll put it on the side so you don't have to eat it.

Make the skin really black and then whack it in the oven to deflate,

so it's really well cooked. We've got one that's...

When you say really black...

It looks even better there, Alan, doesn't it, really? Look at that.

It's looking really good.

-Open this out and take the flesh out.

-Take the flesh out.

Then if you could chop me up some onion and garlic as quick as you can.

And we'll get that sweating off.

I'm going to add some tahini to that,

but I want to get my wontons on first.

So I've diced up some goat's cheese here.

I'm going to mix it with a little bit of my tomato.

This is Cornish Gevrik's goat's cheese,

if you are interested to know which type.

There you go, OK, thank you.

I also like to use a crumbly one, where you can crumble it down.

This one is a bit more creamy but that's absolutely fine.

But I believe this one is quite easy to digest. There you go.

Thank you for that. What I might do is get rid of that egg white.

Full of information.

The Goat's Cheese's Digest?

There you go.

-Right.

-And a little pastry brush.

So you can get rid of these bits.

Pastry brush. Have we got a pastry brush?

Use your fingers.

-Use my fingers?

-All right, chop this.

Chop that and if you can chop some garlic and a little bit of shallot

and get it into this frying pan here, we'll get that cooked off.

A touch of garlic. There you go.

I've got some wonton wrappers here.

I've got a little bit of filling

in the middle into triangles, then

I'm going to fold them until they look a little bit like tortellini.

As it by the magic of television, this brush arrives. There you go.

-Marvellous.

-There's two ladies panting around...

-I thought if I mentioned it, I might get one.

-There you go.

A bit of oil in here?

A little bit of oil, sweat that off.

Add the aubergine to it and then cook it out for about five minutes,

or probably less than that, a couple of minutes.

Then if you could strain it into a bowl, season it up,

-that would be lovely.

-Anything else you want doing?

-Yes, there is.

I've done two parts of this dish already.

I'm doing the fiddly bits.

If you could make me a nice tomato dressing.

-Here we've got tomato ketchup...

-Ketchup?!

Yes, Worcester sauce, wait till you taste it. Worcester sauce.

That is a tomato dressing, isn't it?

Well, we're going to make it a little bit nicer.

Some Tabasco, white wine vinegar and olive oil

and there's some herbs there, coriander, tarragon and chives.

Seriously, why ketchup?

Well, because it's got all the flavours in it that I want.

I could make my own but in seven minutes or whatever it is you've

given me here, I haven't got time.

So I'm a big fan of using things that you've already got around you.

-I know he is, he's a big fan of ketchup.

-I use...

I only use the best ketchup of my choice. So there it is.

You've got all the flavours there.

And actually, the dressing works really well.

When you open your ketchup, are you a cupboard man or a fridge man?

Fridge.

-Yeah?

-What are you?

-Cupboard.

-No!

This is an interesting conversation, guys,

but I'd rather see you do this.

How do you make these, then?

You buy the wonton wrappers, I'm putting a little bit of tomato

and goat's cheese in the middle.

Then I'm folding it over into triangles, like that.