Episode 133 Saturday Kitchen Best Bites


Episode 133

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Transcript


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Good morning. It's time to get some inspiration for lunch. This is Saturday Kitchen Best Bites.

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Welcome to the show. There are top chefs lined up to cook this morning.

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And some hungry celebrities, ready and willing

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to give their verdict on the food. Coming up on today's show:

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Jun Tanaka serves his version of roast chicken.

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He creates a salt crust for the chicken, bakes it in the oven,

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and serves it with peas, broad beans and mushrooms.

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Daniel Galmiche cooks the perfect summer fish lunch.

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He bakes plaice on lemon grass skewers

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and serves it with a creamy tomato and tarragon sauce, and spinach.

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And Michael Caines serves a hearty veg and herb soup.

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He uses celeriac, carrot, cabbage, courgettes, and peas,

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and a whole host of fresh herbs to create the perfect summer treat.

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And Arlene Phillips faced her Food Heaven or Food Hell.

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Would she get her Food Heaven,

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chicory with my baked goat's cheese, served with home-made chicory

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and orange jam? Or would she get her dreaded Food Hell, onions with

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my classic Yorkshire pudding, served with red wine and onion gravy?

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You can find out what she gets to eat at the end of today's show.

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But, first, it's breakfast time. And we get a BLT with a difference.

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It comes with mackerel and two Michelin stars.

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What's on the menu today?

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Right, we've got some line-caught mackerel, lovely.

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And we're making a tomato stock, a nice BLT with bacon, lettuce,

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tomatoes, and then some samphire, which is in season at the moment.

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And it's all going to come together in a nice, refreshing warm salad.

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-Now, you want to get that bacon.

-Yeah, straight under the grill.

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Tomatoes, I'll get these on as well.

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Before you mention it, I've worn this top as homage to you.

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-Thank you very much.

-The last time on the show...

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The last time he was on the show, he wore this....

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-LAUGHTER

-Check it out!

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-ZOE:

-Tangerine!

-Looks like a giant space hopper.

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-Never going to live it down.

-Brilliant.

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-You got a lot of comments about that, didn't you?

-I did.

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Apparently, I've got to keep it, all the time I come on this show,

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I've got to have...shirts that are quite colourful. But I think today...

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I've beaten you to it to. I've tried. Right, on with our mackerel.

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Basically, what we're going to do with our mackerel,

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one of the things with a fish like mackerel,

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people are put off by it cos of the bones.

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If you prep it this way,

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you shouldn't have to worry about it because you'll take them out.

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Now, get rid of all the...

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It used to be quite cheap, but it's quite pricey now.

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I think recently because, you know, we are all aware

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of sustainability and stuff of fish,

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it's been a lot on the TV, things like mackerel has been eaten

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a lot more cos these are sustainable fish.

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But what happens is the price goes up.

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So it's not as cheap as it once was.

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You used to buy it for 10p each, something like that.

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You could go down to most harbour-sides,

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the kids would be selling them cos they'd caught them.

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This one is line caught.

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I mean, we actually found this. Check that out.

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-That was inside it. See?

-It proves it was line caught.

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-Or did you just put it in there?

-Yes, I carry a hook everywhere.

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So, if you just take the rib cage out there,

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and you run the knife along the centre where the bones are,

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what it gives you is two clean fillets,

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with no bones in them at all.

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Which is great for getting kids into oily fish. It's brilliant

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-cos of the omega 3 and that in there, it's very good for you.

-Yeah.

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-Not for the fish, obviously, cos it gets caught.

-Exactly.

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And so many tomatoes in this.

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LAUGHTER

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You're bored at the moment.

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-Just chopping them, you know...

-You have to hurry up.

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You blend in with the tomatoes with that shirt, James.

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Thank you very much, Angela.

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That's me done for now.

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You're about to get your comeuppance a little bit later.

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Right, the next thing we'll do is we will make the base of the sauce,

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which is the mayonnaise.

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For that, I've got three egg yolks, I've got some vinegar,

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and I've also got some normal, light oil. Olive oil I'm using today.

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You can use any oil. Not too strong,

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though, because you don't want it to power at the end.

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Well, traditional mayonnaise would be made with vegetable oil.

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-That's right, yeah.

-Right, garlic? Some chilli?

-That's right.

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Explain to everybody what I'm doing,

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cos they probably haven't got a clue.

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-Yeah, what are you doing, James?

-I don't know, I'm just chopping.

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Making a raw tomato stock.

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What you do, it extracts all the juice and all the flavour.

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The best time to do it is when you've got, like, the glut of all

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the tomatoes at the end of the season is make something like this.

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-And you can freeze it.

-Right.

-And it has a lot of flavour in it.

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-Sugar.

-Yes, that'll help to draw out juice.

-Vinegar.

-Yes.

-Mix it.

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-That's got chilli and garlic in there.

-Give it a good mix up.

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And then, what you do, just hang that or put it into a colander.

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And best to leave it for a few hours. It'll draw all that out.

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So, through a tea towel.

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-There you go.

-Put that in the fridge,

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or if you've got a larder, it'll be fine in there.

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-Squeeze and leave it dripping, yeah?

-Yes, just leave it dripping.

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Mind your shirt.

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LAUGHTER

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That's one-all now, Nathan.

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I've got to get him back for that picture.

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And then, after 16 hours, you end up with this.

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-Yes. Which is lots of flavour.

-That looks like dishwater.

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Oh, come on, have a taste of it.

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Nice, isn't it?

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-It tastes like tomatoes.

-Yes, the essence of tomato.

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-Why don't you just put a tomato in it?

-That would be cheating.

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That would be cheating, of course!

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You could make it with a good tomato juice, I suppose, if you wanted to.

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-I thought I'd get you working today.

-Exactly.

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-The next thing you do is the garnish.

-And we put some tomatoes in it!

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Which is nice cherry tomatoes on the vine.

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What do you do with the leftover bits of tomato?

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When you squeeze all the juice out, you can actually just make

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a simple pasta sauce with it, you don't have to throw it away.

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Which is a good way of using it.

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Or even just cook it down, freeze it and keep it like a passata.

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-Is that the right word?

-Yeah.

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You don't put salt in it, you just put sugar when you do the tomatoes?

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I don't put any salt in until afterwards.

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The sugar draws it out. We're going to split the mayonnaise.

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-Do you want me to do that?

-If you can do that, I'll do the tomatoes.

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Just need that nice and thick.

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So, to start this, it's a one pan wonder.

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A little bit of oil.

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Try not to get... I always cook fish on a medium heat.

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Shall I check the bacon, chef?

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-There you go.

-It'll be all right.

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So, we've got our tomatoes.

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Now you're setting it on fire!

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-I like to flame the tomatoes for flavour.

-Smoky, Nathan, smoky.

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Have you ever had a fire alarm go on in the studio?

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I think it's about to, actually. It's just getting ready.

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-Now, that was me. I did set fire to four sardines.

-Four sardines?

-Yeah.

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When the tomatoes are starting to colour, lay mackerel in.

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-Skin side down.

-Bacon.

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Crispy bacon is essential.

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-Right, OK.

-Lovely.

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Now, season your fillets of mackerel with a little bit of salt,

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a little bit of pepper.

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Not too much, though, cos you've got ingredients in there,

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we've got samphire and our bacon. You don't want too much in there.

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So, how's the restaurant going, then?

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The restaurant's doing really well, actually.

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Since getting our two stars,

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the fine dining restaurant's been fully booked, which is excellent.

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But the one thing for me that I'm really happy about is

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the brasserie, with the grill we've got, that's been really busy.

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But, I mean, it's more of a challenge at the moment,

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for the mid-range sort of market restaurants to do well.

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And Rock in Cornwall is just opposite Padstow, is that right?

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That's right. You've got quite a bit of water between you.

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You could swim it if you wanted to. It would take about 45 minutes.

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-Danny would get up there. Easy enough.

-Danny could do it.

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-I can't swim.

-Well, maybe not, then!

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Yeah, so we're in Rock, which is quite a nice area,

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it's north Cornwall.

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And, you know, busy in the summer, goes a bit quiet in the winter.

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So, that's the challenge for us, to keep it busy

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in the winter time as well.

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Right, so our mackerel has just got a bit of colour on there.

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Flip your mackerel over.

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Do you want more oil in here to make it thicker?

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Yes, a little bit more. Then, once...

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once you've turned it over, take your mackerel...

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I like my mackerel undercooked, depends what you like.

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If it's fresh, you should be able to eat it raw anyway.

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So, just take that out.

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That's taken two minutes. Three minutes maximum.

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Now, into the pan we've got some samphire.

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It's growing everywhere on the estuaries that at the moment.

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-Sea asparagus.

-Sea beans, as the Americans call it.

-Sea beans?

-Yeah.

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We've got some of this... little gem lettuce.

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I'm not going to put any salt in that,

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that's how strong the actual samphire is. You won't need to.

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A touch more oil.

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Now, if you can, for me, just to the mayonnaise, add a bit of cream,

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and some of this very...

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I love the way Nathan's like really calm, and James is running around...

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-I've done it all!

-..doing all the hard work.

-Haven't you noticed?

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-On this programme, I do everything.

-It's good for you.

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-Careful with that, James, the tomato juice.

-It's very expensive.

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-Is that enough?

-Down to about a sauce consistency. Go on. Keep going.

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-What was that?

-Like a sauce consistency. Add it in.

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I love it when James Martin looks like he doesn't know what

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-he's doing.

-Now you're in trouble for saying that.

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-If it splits, it's down to you.

-It won't split, trust me.

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-Oh, it's split.

-Is it?

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No, it's fine. A little bit more in there.

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Come on, it's got to add to the flavour in there. That's it.

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Literally, all we do with this is warm it through.

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We've got a pan on there.

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-It'll take a little bit more, actually.

-You want more?

-A bit more.

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I've gone to all this effort to make it.

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You're justifying 16 kilos of tomatoes. There you go, right.

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-Ready to plate?

-Yeah.

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I've got a mixture of all the tomato and everything.

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So, you've got the saltiness from the samphire and the bacon,

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and then you've got the nice, sweet tomatoes, nice, sort of,

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texture of the crunchy lettuce.

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Some basil. We forgot that in rehearsal.

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-And we forgot it again.

-We forgot it again! There you go.

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There you go.

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That on its own is very nice, you know.

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On top of that, we've got mackerel fillets. They barely cooked.

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When it's this fresh, I must stress, you can just, literally...

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-In and out.

-You don't want to overcook something like this.

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And now we finish that off with our dressing.

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Which is our warm tomato mayonnaise dressing.

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There we have it. Remind us what that is again.

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So, we've got fresh line caught mackerel, basically, BLT.

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He's a bit of a genius, is our Nathan.

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-He's off. He's off with it already.

-I'm hungry!

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-I haven't had breakfast yet.

-Oh, this looks great.

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Do I get to go in first?

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Norman goes mackerel fishing in Brighton,

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just out of the marina, takes the kids.

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And they love it, cos they get to gut the fish and cook it.

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Well, go and buy it in the supermarket,

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get 16 kilos of tomatoes, and you've got a dish!

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By week on Tuesday, you'll be all right!

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I'm going to get some samphire cos I love samphire. We get it from our fish shop.

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That, I mean, that tomato, it is strong in flavour.

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-Oh, that's so good. It's worth it.

-It's worth it.

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Do I have to share it? Yeah, I do have to share.

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Quite fantastic dish, that.

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What a great dish for your brunch today.

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Next time, you'll remember the bacon, Nathan.

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Coming up, I make chilled melon soup

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with langoustines and mint for Nick Knowles.

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But, first, Rick Stein is travelling through France

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and introduces us to a French form of filo pastry.

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Good cooking, I think, still rules in France.

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The hamburger joints and pizza places haven't taken over yet.

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And this is particularly true in the rural areas

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where little auberges and family-run food businesses cater for a local trade.

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Like Lucienne Chauvel, with her sought-after tourtieres,

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the basis of which is this incredible pastry.

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I'm just amazed at this.

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It's like the Greek filo pastry, but I've never seen it before.

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Thing is, she makes it look so easy, it's like stretching a skin really.

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But I bet you it's not as easy as it looks.

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That's what I like about watching people do something incredibly skilfully,

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they just make it look so easy.

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I've never seen anybody describe a perfect circle before, but Lucienne's just done it.

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And I'm just speechless with the skill here. I mean, it's just, it's just such a pleasure to watch.

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She lays these sheets of tissue-like pastry in the bottom of a well-greased pan

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and using her granny's apple slicing machine -

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well, if it ain't broke, don't fix it - she fans the apple slices around the top of the pastry base.

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She adds a very generous glass of Armagnac, which is again local, and some caster sugar.

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I just know I'm going to like this.

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-Du sucre.

-But just imagine trying to do this in a restaurant. Well, you couldn't.

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Sugar and vanilla. Now for the crown.

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These tourtieres came about after a meeting about farm diversification.

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Lucienne served her pies as a treat to the good people that turned up.

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And they said, "Mon Dieu, Lucienne!

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"You must make these pies.

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-"People will come from miles around to buy them."

-Voila!

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And that's exactly what she did.

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I'm lost for words. It's just...

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If you just think about the French skill with patisserie, this is it.

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This explains what it's all about.

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It is so light, the Armagnac just gives it a sort of real luxury.

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There's no pastry cream or anything, it's just like a vol au vent.

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It's just like a breath of wind, it's utterly, utterly, butterly.

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This is the way to enter a town.

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In this case, it's Moissac,

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famous for its fruit and its freshwater fish from the River Tarn.

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Bernard, Michel and Julie greet the lock-keepers,

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bridge operators and bar owners like old friends,

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which they are.

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But my main interest in coming to Moissac

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is a fruit that's grown in the surrounding hills.

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We're not far from Moissac, and that's where the best fruit in the whole of France comes from.

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To me, the best fruit are cherries.

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Just look at these branches, groaning with the weight of fruit.

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Over here, we've got apricots and they're going to be ready

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in a couple of weeks or so.

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Excuse me while I eat another cherry.

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But down there...

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you see that strange tractor and contraption in the distance,

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that is the most important crop in the area, Quercy melons.

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It's the first melons of the season.

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And this is day one for all the Dussac family, but Nicolas is the only one that speaks English.

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-You know you can see the yellow leaf here.

-Oh, I see.

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If you can see a patch of yellower leaves, you know it's riper.

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-If you push here, you can see the break.

-Ah, yeah.

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All right. I'm cutting the tail.

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-It's a heavy one.

-What, for its size?

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Yeah, for it's size it's very heavy.

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And you can see the straight, very strong...

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-Defined.

-Yeah.

-And not too green.

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Yeah, because here, if you see this one,

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-it's more green, just between, if I push, it can broken.

-I see, yeah.

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I had to use my special form of telepathy that would prompt them

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to ask me if I'd like to taste one of these delicious sweet melons.

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And my answer would be, not half!

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Lovely colour, wow, look at that!

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Let's try some then.

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Fantastic.

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Mmm.

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That's just the south west of France in a bite.

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It's sunshine,

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it's honey, honey sweetness, delicious.

0:17:430:17:47

Do you know, I think that's the best melon I've ever tasted.

0:17:470:17:50

Yeah.

0:17:500:17:52

Nicolas was saying they've hit the jackpot with this particular crop,

0:17:520:17:56

because all the other growers planted their melons

0:17:560:18:00

about two weeks earlier than they did, in March,

0:18:000:18:03

and unfortunately, everybody else was hit by a frost

0:18:030:18:07

so that, in fact, although they planted later,

0:18:070:18:10

they're the only ones around with a really good crop,

0:18:100:18:13

so they got top prices and just hit the jackpot.

0:18:130:18:16

Nothing beats a ripe melon picked early in the morning

0:18:180:18:21

in the field where it was grown.

0:18:210:18:23

But this is a really good way to serve melon at home.

0:18:230:18:26

Melons, I think, have had some pretty bad luck in the past

0:18:260:18:29

in the way they've been treated by us chefs.

0:18:290:18:33

We make those horrid chilled balls from them, covered in raspberry or kiwi fruit coulis,

0:18:330:18:38

or they're more commonly had with the inevitable dried piece of Parma ham. I've had lots of those.

0:18:380:18:45

This is different.

0:18:450:18:47

It's melon with its sister, the cucumber,

0:18:470:18:50

and beautiful ripe tomatoes,

0:18:500:18:52

all sharing one large, family-sized plate with slices of fromage de chevre - goat's cheese.

0:18:520:18:59

I made this for a lunch party the other day, intending it to be a starter.

0:18:590:19:04

But after some good bread, a chilled bottle of Chateau de Caseneuve -

0:19:040:19:08

mmm! - and some more good cheese, it was quite enough.

0:19:080:19:13

So, sprinkle it with some coarsely chopped fresh garden mint, and now for the dressing.

0:19:130:19:17

It's a standard dressing made with olive oil, red wine vinegar, a little sugar and some salt.

0:19:170:19:23

That adds, along with the mint, a spike of sharpness.

0:19:230:19:28

I love these Quercy melons, they're just the best melon in the world.

0:19:290:19:32

So sweet. They just have such fond memories for me of that day working with Nicolas in the melon field

0:19:320:19:39

and then going back to the farmyard afterwards and drinking Pinot de Charente and eating Quercy melon,

0:19:390:19:44

and meeting all his family, particularly his grandparents

0:19:440:19:48

who had been married for 60 years and were very happy people.

0:19:480:19:53

I said to them, "Excuse me, but what's the secret of your happiness?"

0:19:530:19:59

He just pointed up, like that.

0:19:590:20:02

I thought he was pointing to the sun and the melons and the sweetness and the light.

0:20:020:20:07

The crew, understandably, thought he was pointing up to the bedroom.

0:20:070:20:11

But, in fact, he was pointing up to God.

0:20:110:20:15

That is so sweet!

0:20:150:20:18

What a fantastic and so simple salad from Rick, there.

0:20:250:20:27

Nick Knowles has joined us. How are you doing, Nick? You all right?

0:20:270:20:30

-Very good.

-You've been practising for the lunchtime?

0:20:300:20:33

Yes, I've been jogging all the way here.

0:20:330:20:35

I turned down the taxi and said no, I want to run.

0:20:350:20:37

-Because you are doing the runs. At lunchtime.

-Yes.

0:20:370:20:39

-How many...?

-It'll be more of a stroll, I think.

0:20:390:20:42

-Yes, how many people do you think are going to take part?

-Thousands.

0:20:420:20:45

It's much, much bigger this year than it was two years ago

0:20:450:20:47

when we did the last Sport Relief.

0:20:470:20:49

It's getting bigger and better every year.

0:20:490:20:51

Yes, absolutely, well, we always said,

0:20:510:20:53

Comic Relief is obviously the big earner.

0:20:530:20:55

But Sport Relief has the potential to be the biggest.

0:20:550:20:58

Sport, everybody gets involved in sport, so, each year it gets bigger

0:20:580:21:01

and bigger, and we're looking forward to a good one this year.

0:21:010:21:04

Well, I'm going to cook you a dish, hopefully,

0:21:040:21:07

I'll make you a dish to give you some energy for lunchtime.

0:21:070:21:09

-Yes, nothing too heavy.

-Nothing too heavy, just a nice, simple salad.

0:21:090:21:12

We saw Rick do it, very simple.

0:21:120:21:14

What I'm going to do, I'm going to create it into a little soup.

0:21:140:21:16

Nice, different variation of using melons.

0:21:160:21:18

Rather than melons how they used to be at weddings,

0:21:180:21:21

with a lump of cheese in a cocktail stick, horrible,

0:21:210:21:23

but we have here, just a little bit of cantaloupe,

0:21:230:21:25

some watermelon, to add lots and lots of moisture into the soup

0:21:250:21:28

because we want a fair bit of liquid.

0:21:280:21:30

Mint, some lime,

0:21:300:21:32

I've got a little dressing here of vinegar, a little bit of olive

0:21:320:21:34

oil, and we're going to get on with the langoustines in a minute.

0:21:340:21:37

So, the first thing, we take some melon. This is seedless watermelon.

0:21:370:21:40

-I'm a huge fan of watermelon.

-Watermelon is delicious.

0:21:400:21:43

When I'm anywhere hot, I always eat, make sure I eat watermelon,

0:21:430:21:46

because it has the correct nutrients to stop you

0:21:460:21:49

-getting sunstroke.

-Yes, very good for you as well. Very, very good.

0:21:490:21:52

But this is one without seeds.

0:21:520:21:53

I'm sure when you just grow it like this,

0:21:530:21:55

if you want to grow melons, I've started to grow

0:21:550:21:57

a few melons in my greenhouse at the moment.

0:21:570:21:59

But a bit of melon, and then we have got some of this wonderful colour.

0:21:590:22:03

I'm using a mixture of the two, really,

0:22:030:22:05

purely the fact that you get a nice pink colour for your soup.

0:22:050:22:09

But then, what I'm going to do is just add a bit of lime juice,

0:22:090:22:12

just try and get more juice out of the lime.

0:22:120:22:14

Put it in the microwave for about eight seconds. That's all it is.

0:22:140:22:18

In there. And then take some wine, a good quality white wine.

0:22:180:22:21

That's the tip with this. Really good-quality white wine.

0:22:210:22:25

You can either use a bit of Sauvignon blanc, Chardonnay,

0:22:250:22:29

it's up to you. Blend it all up.

0:22:290:22:31

And you will instantly get this lovely, rich, rich colour. I mean,

0:22:330:22:37

Bill, you're into modern food in Australia,

0:22:370:22:39

is this the kind of thing you do with melons?

0:22:390:22:41

Yes, my kids might think it is a smoothie,

0:22:410:22:44

so I have to keep it out of their sight. It looks fantastic.

0:22:440:22:47

It's so simple to do, that's like, it's

0:22:470:22:49

so much easier than a gazpacho, really.

0:22:490:22:51

-This is going to be a cold soup.

-It's a cold soup.

0:22:510:22:53

-You don't warm it at all.

-No.

0:22:530:22:54

You don't warm it at all, otherwise it will start to split,

0:22:540:22:57

and obviously, you don't want warm melon anyway.

0:22:570:22:59

But it's just a simple little soup like that.

0:22:590:23:01

That's what I was wondering, when you said soup, not being a chef,

0:23:010:23:04

-I thought.

-It's a trendy term.

0:23:040:23:06

But what type of things do you get to cook?

0:23:060:23:08

-All kinds of stuff.

-Because you're a busy man.

0:23:080:23:10

Last week, you were in a prison.

0:23:100:23:12

-Yes, I've only just got out of prison.

-Exactly.

0:23:120:23:15

I was in prison all week in Cardiff, last week.

0:23:150:23:17

And I do a travel programme for the BBC,

0:23:170:23:19

so I'm hopping around the world.

0:23:190:23:21

-I did 54 flights last year.

-Did you?

-Yes.

-So, you travel a lot.

0:23:210:23:24

What's your favourite, favourite food from around the world?

0:23:240:23:27

I genuinely, I suppose, as a sort of genre food, it is Italian food.

0:23:270:23:31

Because they keep it simple,

0:23:310:23:33

and the fresh herbs, the basil, just to crunch the herbs

0:23:330:23:36

and smell the herbs and have that sort of sense.

0:23:360:23:39

You mentioned basil, which is your food heaven.

0:23:390:23:42

Why is that? Is that because of the Italian theme?

0:23:420:23:44

This is just one of those things.

0:23:440:23:46

I sort of go through periods of time when I like a particular herb,

0:23:460:23:50

and it's not a period of days or weeks, but a period of years.

0:23:500:23:53

I was in love with coriander for years.

0:23:530:23:55

And every thing I cooked was coriander, now, Basil,

0:23:550:23:58

for some reason. I love.

0:23:580:24:00

I have a big club of it in the kitchen, which every time

0:24:000:24:03

I walk past, I'll sort of crunch it, so that I can smell some of it.

0:24:030:24:06

Coriander, I believe now is England's most popular herb.

0:24:060:24:09

-See, we're learning.

-That's his fault!

-Blame everything on me!

0:24:090:24:13

-We learn a little bit.

-Learning all the time.

0:24:130:24:15

What I have here is a little bit of langoustine,

0:24:150:24:18

and I want to talk about this just for a second,

0:24:180:24:20

but these lovely langoustines here, this, again, is one of the great

0:24:200:24:23

things that we have is a product in the UK, particularly,

0:24:230:24:26

I was fishing about a week ago in Scotland, I actually went

0:24:260:24:29

with a fisherman on Loch Fyne. On Loch Fyne itself.

0:24:290:24:32

And actually caught fresh langoustine.

0:24:320:24:34

And this ridiculous thing is, we actually export them.

0:24:340:24:36

-Predominantly.

-Really?

-Yes, to Spain and Italy and France.

0:24:360:24:39

They love them over there.

0:24:390:24:41

But we tend to not eat them, but they are a fantastic product.

0:24:410:24:44

Didn't know you could get them.

0:24:440:24:45

Dublin Bay prawns, but they used to be put into scampi,

0:24:450:24:48

breadcrumbs, it's such a waste just to breadcrumb that. It's awful.

0:24:480:24:52

Anyway, I'm going to mix this together,

0:24:520:24:53

and while I'm mixing that together,

0:24:530:24:55

tell us about your food hell, which of course, is okra.

0:24:550:24:58

-Yes, okra.

-Or ladies fingers.

0:24:580:25:00

Ladies fingers, that is the thing which normally, would attract me

0:25:000:25:03

to it, but it's in actual fact, I don't like it because it's slimy.

0:25:030:25:07

When I grew up, I grew up in Southall, early years,

0:25:070:25:10

and so all of my friends ate fantastic exotic food.

0:25:100:25:14

My mum cooked straightforward English, meat, two veg.

0:25:140:25:18

Herbs were the work of the devil, basically.

0:25:180:25:21

But my friends, of course, it is

0:25:210:25:23

a very huge Indian, Pakistani, Afro-Caribbean community,

0:25:230:25:28

Southall, and so, going around to friends houses, it was

0:25:280:25:32

always curry and, like I say, Afro-Caribbean food,

0:25:320:25:35

rice and the peas and all that kind of thing.

0:25:350:25:39

And goat stew, so it was great.

0:25:390:25:40

Okra was just the one thing that I couldn't bear,

0:25:400:25:43

-because it was so slimy.

-If it is overcooked, it becomes slimy.

0:25:430:25:46

-It's not very pleasant.

-Yes.

0:25:460:25:48

And it had no, as it was on its own, it appeared to have no taste,

0:25:480:25:51

so it had the texture of someone having

0:25:510:25:53

sneezed on the back of a turtle.

0:25:530:25:54

If you like that sort of thing! Hopefully, this is not.

0:25:540:25:57

This is part of the langoustine. Looking little bit yellow.

0:25:570:26:00

Sneezed on the back of a turtle! Thanks very much! Yeah!

0:26:000:26:03

Part of the langoustine, it's a little bit of vinaigrette,

0:26:030:26:06

little bit of white wine vinegar, olive oil, a touch

0:26:060:26:09

of vinaigrette, now the secret for the soup, once you make it,

0:26:090:26:12

just give it a quick stir, because it will actually start to separate.

0:26:120:26:16

-So, just a touch.

-There's no herb in this?

0:26:160:26:18

This is basically melon juice?

0:26:180:26:20

Just melon and white wine, and that's it.

0:26:200:26:22

Really, so you have all of this lovely flavour,

0:26:220:26:25

so, it's a weird combination, but particularly in the summer,

0:26:250:26:28

with the beautiful weather we're having, it is

0:26:280:26:31

just so nice to have something refreshing.

0:26:310:26:33

And what I've done here,

0:26:330:26:35

just put a little bit of whipped cream with some mint in.

0:26:350:26:37

You could use basil if you wanted to make this with basil as well.

0:26:370:26:41

A little bit of mint gone in there, just a touch,

0:26:410:26:43

because mint is quite a strong herb.

0:26:430:26:45

A hot spoon, into some hot water, and then just quenelle on the top.

0:26:450:26:49

You see, look, there is something, that is actually anti-gravity.

0:26:490:26:53

If I tried to pile prawns up and put a quenelle, it would

0:26:530:26:57

now be a small jumble of a mess on the bottom of the bowl.

0:26:570:27:00

Demolish them with a spoon. Dive into that. Tell me what you think.

0:27:000:27:04

-Well, let's try a little bit of that and that and that.

-It's so simple.

0:27:040:27:08

Build up your energy for lunchtime?

0:27:130:27:15

-You know what, that is a work of genius, that is.

-You like that?

0:27:150:27:19

-That's fantastic.

-You look surprised!

-I've known you a long time!

0:27:190:27:24

Gone are the days of chicken and chips. It's good, that, isn't it?

0:27:240:27:27

That's really fantastic. Really refreshing.

0:27:270:27:30

Langoustine are very good, aren't they?

0:27:300:27:32

Perfect for a hot summer day.

0:27:360:27:37

Now, if you'd like to try cooking any of the studio

0:27:370:27:40

recipes you've seen on today's show,

0:27:400:27:43

all of those are just a click away on bbc.co.uk/recipes.

0:27:430:27:46

Today, we're looking back at some of the best

0:27:460:27:48

cooking from the Saturday Kitchen larder.

0:27:480:27:51

Now it's time for roast chicken with a difference from Jun Tanaka,

0:27:510:27:55

ably assisted by John Torode and a salt crust.

0:27:550:27:57

-What are you going to cook for us? Come join me, young man.

-Yes.

0:27:570:28:00

I'm going to do roast chicken, it's going to

0:28:000:28:02

be cooked in a herb infused salt crust.

0:28:020:28:04

It sounds a bit poncey, sounds a bit difficult, but it's not.

0:28:040:28:07

It's quite simple to do.

0:28:070:28:08

With some fresh peas, broad beans and some mousserons,

0:28:080:28:11

-which are these lovely little things.

-Fairy ring mushrooms.

0:28:110:28:14

-Is that what they're called?

-They are called that.

0:28:140:28:16

So, we've got to get on. A fair bit to do.

0:28:160:28:19

So, if you could chop the shallots for me and start potting the peas,

0:28:190:28:22

the broad beans, chop some chervil and I will get on with the chicken.

0:28:220:28:26

If I'm doing all of that, what are you doing?

0:28:260:28:29

Preparing the chicken, making the salt crust.

0:28:290:28:31

So, this is all of the sauce.

0:28:310:28:33

The idea of the sauce is to go with this fantastic chicken of yours.

0:28:330:28:37

Why are you roasting it in salt crust?

0:28:370:28:39

Because, now, chicken, it can be a little bit bland.

0:28:390:28:42

If you don't cook it properly, you don't season it,

0:28:420:28:45

and the salt crust, what it does,

0:28:450:28:47

it actually protects it from becoming too dry,

0:28:470:28:49

because you make this kind of dough which encases the chicken

0:28:490:28:53

and then inside the dough, you've got some coarse sea salt,

0:28:530:28:56

some rosemary and thyme,

0:28:560:28:58

and that is going to penetrate into the meat giving it loads of flavour.

0:28:580:29:02

While protecting it.

0:29:020:29:03

-Your roasting a chicken, you're taking all the bits off.

-Yeah.

0:29:030:29:07

You've taken off the leg, you've taken off the wings.

0:29:070:29:10

You can't cook the perfect roast chicken whole.

0:29:100:29:13

That's not possible,

0:29:130:29:14

because the breasts always cook before the legs, and I swear by that.

0:29:140:29:19

Genaro? What do you think about that?

0:29:190:29:20

You can't cook a whole roast chicken perfectly?

0:29:200:29:23

Well, I thought, and I know for sure,

0:29:230:29:26

-I cook the perfect roast chicken.

-Really?

0:29:260:29:29

Because of the different textures of the leg

0:29:290:29:32

and the breast that you don't agree?

0:29:320:29:35

-Yes, the breast will always cook before the legs.

-I see.

0:29:350:29:38

But can't you just take the legs off and roast them a bit longer

0:29:380:29:43

while you eat the breast?

0:29:430:29:44

-Yes. What do you mean?

-Can you do that?

0:29:440:29:47

You might as well take it off at the beginning

0:29:470:29:49

and then roast it separately.

0:29:490:29:51

Because you're classically trained, aren't you?

0:29:510:29:54

You're a classically trained chef, you're not just a little boy

0:29:540:29:58

around town, you have worked with some of the great masters.

0:29:580:30:01

-Have you chopped some of those?

-Yes, sorry.

0:30:010:30:04

-I'll keep a little bit to stuff the bird as well.

-Yes.

0:30:040:30:07

So, you've trained with some of the greatest chefs in the country.

0:30:070:30:11

Is it true that actually,

0:30:110:30:12

-it was your father that put you in the right direction?

-Yes, it was.

0:30:120:30:16

Basically, when I started cooking 20 years ago,

0:30:160:30:19

I wanted to work in the best possible restaurants.

0:30:190:30:22

And back then, 20 years ago,

0:30:220:30:24

the best restaurants were predominantly French restaurants.

0:30:240:30:28

-Do you want to get that sauce on?

-Oh, yes.

0:30:280:30:31

Cheers. Because otherwise we will not have time.

0:30:310:30:34

-If you could put the herbs in there, that would be good.

-OK.

0:30:340:30:38

-So, salt, butter in there, is that right?

-No, egg yolk.

0:30:380:30:42

-And then one egg.

-And then the herbs go in.

-And the shallots go in.

0:30:420:30:46

So, that is your sauce going on there.

0:30:460:30:48

-So, you wanted to work in classic French food.

-Yes.

0:30:480:30:52

Basically, I just wanted to work in the best possible restaurants.

0:30:520:30:56

And, you know, work in the top Michelin star restaurants,

0:30:560:30:59

and back then it was predominantly like I said, it was French.

0:30:590:31:03

But how did your father know all about great

0:31:030:31:05

-restaurants like that?

-Because he was a businessman,

0:31:050:31:09

lots of business meetings

0:31:090:31:10

and he was lucky enough to eat in all of the different

0:31:100:31:13

restaurants, so, I asked his advice for where I should work, basically.

0:31:130:31:17

So, in here, I've got the salt, the rosemary, thyme,

0:31:170:31:20

bit of flower, and you work that until it becomes like a dough,

0:31:200:31:24

so you're making like a bread dough.

0:31:240:31:26

And if's too wet, you just add a touch more flour.

0:31:260:31:28

And if it's too dry, you add a touch more water,

0:31:280:31:31

and you end up with something like this.

0:31:310:31:33

It's important you have to rest it for about an hour.

0:31:330:31:36

And very simply, roll it out to about half a centimetre in thickness.

0:31:360:31:40

-So it is basically like a pastry casing.

-Yes. Feel that.

0:31:400:31:43

-It's just like almost like a bread.

-But it's got a lot of salt in it.

0:31:430:31:47

You're not going to be eating that afterwards, are you?

0:31:470:31:50

No, that's just going to flavour the chicken and you don't need to put

0:31:500:31:54

any excess salt on the chicken before you put it inside the salt crust.

0:31:540:31:58

Are you baking chickens inside things? Is that what you do?

0:31:580:32:02

-Well, I do. I used to bake a chicken in clay.

-In clay?

0:32:020:32:07

It's fantastic, you know?

0:32:070:32:09

Because it does get through all of that moisture, and the flavour,

0:32:090:32:11

it can't escape anywhere. So, he's right.

0:32:110:32:15

The way he's cooked the chicken, he cook perfect chicken.

0:32:150:32:19

That doesn't mean he cook chicken better than me.

0:32:190:32:22

I never said that, I never said that.

0:32:220:32:24

There is a ferocious contest going on today

0:32:240:32:27

because later on we know about the omelette challenge,

0:32:270:32:29

and you two are going to go head-to-head.

0:32:290:32:32

It's a very special day, isn't it?

0:32:320:32:34

Because we have a couple of little surprises for you both.

0:32:340:32:38

-But anyway...

-Oh.

0:32:380:32:40

So you've put that inside the cavity, lemon and rosemary...

0:32:400:32:43

-Bit of garlic.

-Yeah.

0:32:430:32:44

And then I've just seasoned it with black pepper and you just, literally,

0:32:440:32:48

-roll the chicken inside the pastry, like that.

-Yeah.

0:32:480:32:52

And if you're having a dinner party,

0:32:520:32:54

imagine pulling something like that out in front of your guests.

0:32:540:32:57

That is pretty exciting. There's your peas and your broad beans.

0:32:570:33:01

I'll take that to the oven.

0:33:010:33:03

And that goes in at 200 degrees for 25 minutes and it's really

0:33:030:33:07

important, once it comes out, you rest it for another 25 minutes.

0:33:070:33:10

This sauce - mousserons, and shallots and stock.

0:33:100:33:14

Little bit of Sauternes, sweet white wine.

0:33:140:33:16

-You don't have to use Sauternes.

-Right.

0:33:160:33:19

You can use regular white wine,

0:33:190:33:20

-a little bit of white wine vinegar to cut through the richness.

-Yeah.

0:33:200:33:23

And I'm going to finish it off with a little bit of creme fraiche.

0:33:230:33:27

The creme fraiche is quite sour.

0:33:270:33:29

Why would you use that rather than cream?

0:33:290:33:32

Does that make it a more stable sauce?

0:33:320:33:33

No, I just prefer the flavour of creme fraiche.

0:33:330:33:36

It's got that sourness, like you said,

0:33:360:33:38

and I think it just creates a better sauce.

0:33:380:33:40

The best part is when you crack it open. Smell this.

0:33:400:33:43

All the aromas that come out.

0:33:430:33:45

Fantastic. But you got soggy skin.

0:33:450:33:47

Ah, but then what you do afterwards, you take it off the bone,

0:33:470:33:52

-and then you crispen it up.

-OK.

0:33:520:33:55

So the idea is that this is twice cooked, really.

0:33:550:33:57

Steamed first and then it's fried off to get a bit of colour into it.

0:33:570:34:02

And then our sauce is simmering away absolutely beautifully.

0:34:020:34:06

Just caramelise it off.

0:34:060:34:08

I'm going to sort of flip it over, just to finish cooking underneath.

0:34:080:34:12

25 minutes in the oven, it's going to be slightly pink.

0:34:120:34:15

And the idea now is to add that little bit of heat to it,

0:34:150:34:18

-get the crispy skin and just finish the inside off.

-Yeah, exactly.

0:34:180:34:21

But this feels like, to me,

0:34:210:34:23

such a shame to lose all those lovely flavours in there.

0:34:230:34:27

-Can we not do a pastry around the outside?

-No, you can't eat this.

0:34:270:34:30

-Have you ever tried?

-Yes, I don't want to eat that.

0:34:300:34:33

But is there not a way you can do it without so much salt?

0:34:330:34:36

-Uh...what...

-OK, we won't worry about that.

0:34:360:34:39

-It's the salt that flavours up the...

-OK.

0:34:390:34:42

-Ultimately if it's loads of flavour, nothing's wasted.

-OK, fair enough.

0:34:420:34:46

And you could do this crust with a whole sea bass

0:34:460:34:50

or you could use it for... What other things could you do?

0:34:500:34:54

The best roast beef ever.

0:34:540:34:57

Honestly, fillet of beef in this salt crust, I swear to you,

0:34:570:35:00

you will not cook another piece of beef in any other way.

0:35:000:35:03

That's difficult for me.

0:35:030:35:05

I run a restaurant that does beef

0:35:050:35:07

so I think that's going to be a bit of a hard one.

0:35:070:35:10

-Try it, honestly.

-I will try it.

0:35:100:35:12

But the food that you're cooking now, it looks quite precise.

0:35:120:35:15

Is this the sort of food that you would expect to eat

0:35:150:35:18

if you came to Pearl?

0:35:180:35:19

Yeah, I'm thinking about...I'm going to put this on my lunch menu,

0:35:190:35:22

-actually, in a couple weeks' time.

-OK.

0:35:220:35:24

And, you know, it's great for lunch. Lunch is a quick service.

0:35:240:35:27

You can have all these nicely warm.

0:35:270:35:29

And the great thing is, it stays warm inside the crust.

0:35:290:35:32

-So you can do them ready to go for service.

-And then open them up...

0:35:320:35:36

Could I make that the day before and then put it in the oven

0:35:360:35:39

and have it ready for all my friends coming round?

0:35:390:35:42

-Yeah.

-Rather than being stressed.

-The salt crust, once it's made,

0:35:420:35:46

it'll keep for about a week in the fridge, all rolled out.

0:35:460:35:50

And, you know, pretty simple.

0:35:500:35:54

Peas and mousseron, these lovely mushrooms.

0:35:540:35:57

It's funny, people think mushrooms are autumn but, they're not,

0:35:570:36:00

they also come in spring, like mousseron and the great morel.

0:36:000:36:03

But everyone also thinks they're French but they do grow in England.

0:36:030:36:07

-I haven't seen that.

-Morels in England, absolutely.

0:36:070:36:10

-Where's that?

-Well, we'll find out. I'll get the facts.

0:36:100:36:14

So, lovely crispy skin.

0:36:140:36:16

-And then that...

-Your asbestos fingers.

0:36:160:36:19

..goes straight onto the top and it is that simple.

0:36:190:36:21

It looks delicious. Just remind us what we've got.

0:36:210:36:24

That's roast chicken cooked in a herb-infused salt crust, peas,

0:36:240:36:27

-broad beans, morels. Summer on a dish.

-Mmm.

0:36:270:36:30

This is looking fairly sensational.

0:36:380:36:40

Cutlery at the ready. You get the first taste.

0:36:420:36:45

I'm so pleased you grilled it off cos one of the joys of eating

0:36:450:36:47

-chicken is a crusty skin.

-It is. Without it...

0:36:470:36:50

-It's the best part.

-Absolutely.

0:36:500:36:52

Right, what do you think of that? Like the smell?

0:36:520:36:55

Yeah. Looks fantastic.

0:36:550:36:57

You said that we had to feed you first before you started

0:36:570:37:01

-to tell us some jokes.

-Before I became amusing, yeah.

0:37:010:37:04

But you are just naturally amusing, aren't you?

0:37:040:37:07

Um...yeah. Well, I'm funny looking.

0:37:070:37:10

Which is a start, so...

0:37:100:37:12

-I've got a big mouth now.

-It's delicious, though, isn't it?

0:37:140:37:17

Fantastic.

0:37:170:37:18

That's a great way to guarantee moist chicken every time.

0:37:210:37:25

It's Floyd time now.

0:37:250:37:27

Today he's on the hunt for scallops off the coast of Dorset.

0:37:270:37:31

Strange little programme, this one. You will, with a bit of patience,

0:37:310:37:35

see a great chef prepare my favourite dish - which is a bass -

0:37:350:37:38

feast on the humble sprat, and with any luck,

0:37:380:37:40

indulge in the first scallops of the season,

0:37:400:37:43

which we're dredging for in West Bay off the Dorset coast.

0:37:430:37:46

To most people I suppose a scallop represents an ashtray, you know,

0:37:520:37:56

seen in a seaside hotel or something.

0:37:560:37:58

But to me, a scallop is one of the most succulent and versatile

0:37:580:38:02

of all the shellfish that surround the shores of Great Britain.

0:38:020:38:05

We've come out to catch them and you know in the normal kind of

0:38:050:38:08

colour supplement cookery programme or the television cookery programmes,

0:38:080:38:11

they all make a big song and dance about walking round

0:38:110:38:14

the market saying, "I only come to buy the most fresh fish."

0:38:140:38:17

Well, here on Floyd On Fish, we actually go out and catch it.

0:38:170:38:20

The scallops you can cook in all sorts of different ways.

0:38:200:38:24

The Japanese, for example, eat them raw.

0:38:240:38:26

The Chinese stir-fry them with bean sprouts.

0:38:260:38:28

The French often cook them with a fish veloute, a thin, creamy,

0:38:280:38:32

white sauce. Maybe with a little parsley and a few mushrooms.

0:38:320:38:35

Often, the British, cos they're a bit tedious about fish,

0:38:350:38:39

invariably surround it with mash potato

0:38:390:38:41

and smother it with cheese and whack it under the grill.

0:38:410:38:44

That's all wrong. Anyway, enough chat.

0:38:440:38:46

We've been here since five o'clock this morning.

0:38:460:38:49

I'm going to have a little snack to start the day.

0:38:490:38:51

Just to really put me in fine fettle, a beautiful fresh, succulent scallop.

0:38:510:38:56

Bon appetit.

0:38:560:38:57

If catching them isn't enough, you've also got to clean the little things.

0:39:010:39:05

And you need plenty of fresh running water,

0:39:050:39:07

a cloth in case you damage your hands,

0:39:070:39:10

the scallop, and a knife.

0:39:100:39:12

Now, the technique here, is to run the knife in,

0:39:120:39:17

which is quite tricky...

0:39:170:39:20

and right the way through, round the back.

0:39:200:39:23

And this does take a little while.

0:39:230:39:25

Drag the knife and it opens.

0:39:250:39:28

Revealing, I'm afraid, this horrible sort of mess inside.

0:39:280:39:32

So we'll run the knife underneath the scallop there.

0:39:320:39:35

And take it out...

0:39:400:39:41

..under the tap.

0:39:430:39:45

Throwing away the little, nasty black pieces.

0:39:450:39:48

And this other piece of membrane,

0:39:500:39:53

leaving only the red or pink coral

0:39:530:39:56

and the white main flesh of the fish.

0:39:560:40:00

And then into your colander.

0:40:000:40:02

OK, scallops. Very simple.

0:40:050:40:08

Some chopped streaky bacon is an essential ingredient.

0:40:080:40:11

The rich yolk of a free-range egg.

0:40:110:40:16

Some good yellow Dorset butter.

0:40:160:40:20

Some freshly chopped parsley.

0:40:200:40:23

A little bit of watercress to add that je ne sais quoi to the dish.

0:40:230:40:28

A little bit of lemon juice.

0:40:280:40:31

Pepper. Salt you can't see, so don't bother to look for it.

0:40:310:40:34

And a drop of wine.

0:40:340:40:35

OK, you know very well that on this programme,

0:40:380:40:40

despite the jokes and great international scallop festival

0:40:400:40:43

and our producer, David Pritchard, we are actually seriously concerned

0:40:430:40:47

about good food and fresh food.

0:40:470:40:49

So, if this takes a little time to cook, bear with me

0:40:490:40:52

because we don't pull things out of the oven that we just happen

0:40:520:40:55

to have ready, like all those other TV programmes.

0:40:550:40:58

Right, butter into pan.

0:40:580:41:01

And as I often make the point on these programmes,

0:41:010:41:04

when we're going to cook with butter, we mean butter.

0:41:040:41:07

We can't use anything else.

0:41:070:41:10

The into our pan goes a little bacon.

0:41:110:41:14

And we'll let that sweat down a bit because out of the butter -

0:41:140:41:18

I know this is difficult for you to see - but out of the butter

0:41:180:41:22

and bacon fat we get some nice juices in which to saute the scallops.

0:41:220:41:28

And after all,

0:41:280:41:30

if you're going to have a star at an international festival and it's

0:41:300:41:33

called the Scallop Festival, then I would say the scallop is the star.

0:41:330:41:38

And we'll plop those in.

0:41:380:41:40

Two of those.

0:41:420:41:43

Three. Four.

0:41:460:41:49

Just gently turn them, don't let the butter or bacon burn.

0:41:490:41:55

It's a good hot pan, good copper pan.

0:41:550:41:57

Very stylish provincial cooking this is.

0:41:570:42:00

You don't have to move the camera to look for me,

0:42:020:42:04

they know I've got to move to get the food in.

0:42:040:42:06

It's the pot that counts. Heaven's sakes.

0:42:060:42:09

Everybody in TV's so concerned about doing their job properly

0:42:090:42:13

they miss the damn point of the whole thing, which is FOOD!

0:42:130:42:16

Love, fun and affection. OK.

0:42:160:42:20

Scallops going into the pot.

0:42:200:42:22

Just stay with those for a moment.

0:42:220:42:25

Might invite you back on the next show if you keep it up like this.

0:42:250:42:28

You're doing very well.

0:42:280:42:30

Right, there are the scallops being very lightly cooked in butter.

0:42:300:42:34

I know those of you who like me

0:42:340:42:36

so much will be very disappointed right now that you can't see me.

0:42:360:42:39

I said stay with the pot!

0:42:390:42:42

Now come to me, come back.

0:42:420:42:45

Look, this is very difficult for me. I am a cook.

0:42:450:42:48

I present television cookery programmes. But I'm not a director.

0:42:480:42:52

I do rely on competent staff.

0:42:520:42:54

Would you get it right in future, please?

0:42:540:42:56

Thank you. Right, pot. Back to the pot.

0:42:560:42:59

We've got this hot and bubbling away nicely.

0:43:010:43:05

A soupcon of wine.

0:43:050:43:09

Stay on the pot. Cos I have to go away.

0:43:090:43:12

Then we're going to add a little parsley.

0:43:130:43:17

Because we like colours and flavours and flavours

0:43:170:43:20

and colours come out of cooking pots.

0:43:200:43:23

And smiling faces and cheerful cameramen.

0:43:230:43:27

Got it? Right.

0:43:270:43:29

Thank you very much indeed.

0:43:290:43:31

Now, Steve, this isn't really for you, this next bit,

0:43:310:43:35

it's for the actual customers who are watching us.

0:43:350:43:38

These scallops are nicely cooked now and if we leave them in there

0:43:380:43:42

any longer they will turn into pieces of rubber

0:43:420:43:45

and that would be a terrible thing to do.

0:43:450:43:48

So we're going to take them out to arrest the cooking process,

0:43:480:43:51

as far as the scallops are concerned. But we must continue with the sauce.

0:43:510:43:55

Just check this, please. You've got this little residue of juices,

0:43:550:43:59

which we're now going to create into a beautiful sauce using some

0:43:590:44:03

fresh cream, which we'll stir in.

0:44:030:44:05

OK.

0:44:070:44:09

For you at home, this plate here, that would be kept warm.

0:44:090:44:15

But since none of you are going to taste this - only me - and I like

0:44:150:44:18

my food slightly tepid, I don't give a damn whether it's hot or cold.

0:44:180:44:21

But when you're trying to impress your bourgeois friends,

0:44:210:44:24

cos only people who watch these sort of programmes are always doing that,

0:44:240:44:27

make sure it's hot.

0:44:270:44:28

We've bubbled the cream up cos we want to get this sauce, which is

0:44:300:44:35

cream and parsley, little tiny drop of white wine, bacon and butter.

0:44:350:44:40

Looks quite nice. But we haven't got the richness that we really want.

0:44:400:44:43

So we're going to quickly -

0:44:430:44:45

cos I'm costing too much money cos of the film.

0:44:450:44:48

If you knew what they paid me,

0:44:480:44:50

you wouldn't believe what a nerve they've got - egg yolks into here -

0:44:500:44:54

to ask me to worry about the price of film.

0:44:540:44:57

Stir the egg yolk in very, very quickly.

0:44:570:45:00

Otherwise we'll get a scrambled egg.

0:45:000:45:02

We just want to use the egg to thicken the sauce

0:45:020:45:05

and then we pour it over the scallops, like that.

0:45:050:45:11

And then our little bit of je ne sais quoi,

0:45:110:45:15

which we were speaking of earlier, goes on over there.

0:45:150:45:19

A final grind of pepper. A spoon for me.

0:45:190:45:23

And thank you all so much for coming, Come up, come up.

0:45:230:45:27

Thank you so much for coming.

0:45:270:45:28

I caught these, I cooked them, I'm going to eat them. Good night.

0:45:280:45:32

It's always great to see the main man in action. On Best Bites,

0:45:370:45:39

we're looking back at some of the great cooking

0:45:390:45:42

from the Saturday Kitchen archives.

0:45:420:45:43

Still to come - the tension is high in the omelette challenge

0:45:430:45:46

as Mark Sargeant tries everything in his power to distract Theo Randall

0:45:460:45:50

from getting a decent omelette time.

0:45:500:45:52

Find out how they both do a little later on.

0:45:520:45:55

And the hugely talented Michael Caines serves up a warming

0:45:550:45:58

veg and herb soup. He uses celeriac, cabbage, carrot, courgettes, peas,

0:45:580:46:03

and a load of fresh herbs to create the perfect summer lunch dish.

0:46:030:46:07

And Arlene Phillips faced her Food Heaven or Food Hell.

0:46:070:46:10

Would she get her Food Heaven, chicory with my baked goat's cheese,

0:46:100:46:13

served with home-made chicory and orange jam?

0:46:130:46:15

Or would she get her dreaded Food Hell, onions with my classic

0:46:150:46:19

Yorkshire pudding, served with red wine and onion gravy?

0:46:190:46:22

And you can find out what she gets to eat at the end of today's show.

0:46:220:46:25

Now, if you got time, then Daniel Galmiche has the plaice -

0:46:250:46:28

fish, that is. Take a look at this.

0:46:280:46:31

-Hi, James.

-The reason why I've taken my jacket off is for a reason

0:46:310:46:35

because I'm going to be creating this thing. What are we cooking?

0:46:350:46:38

Plaice. Look at that - lovely. From Dorset. It's the season.

0:46:380:46:43

-Yeah.

-You're going to fillet that for me.

0:46:430:46:45

OK, so we're going to serve that with what?

0:46:450:46:47

-We're going to skewer that with some lemongrass.

-OK.

0:46:470:46:52

-Which will give a nice freshness to it.

-I'll get on with this.

0:46:520:46:55

Just to show you what you need, this is filleting knife.

0:46:550:46:58

See that? See how it bends?

0:46:580:47:01

Compared with a boning knife, you use to take the bones out of meat.

0:47:010:47:04

Look at that - it doesn't bend at all. Fillet knife bends.

0:47:040:47:06

That's what you want for this.

0:47:060:47:08

You've got a natural line running right along the top of the fish.

0:47:080:47:12

You follow that over.

0:47:120:47:13

And then just carefully fillet this out.

0:47:130:47:17

Now, notice how he's given it to me.

0:47:170:47:20

There you go. So what are you up to?

0:47:200:47:23

Right, first I'm going to do a tomato as soon as the water's boiling.

0:47:230:47:28

-Going to chop some shallots.

-Got one fillet off here.

0:47:280:47:32

And the other fillet off the other side.

0:47:320:47:34

The secret of filleting stuff is long cuts with the knife.

0:47:340:47:38

No jagged cuts. Just long cuts.

0:47:380:47:41

-Yeah, so you don't make any line in the flesh.

-Yeah, exactly.

0:47:410:47:44

So you don't damage the fish itself.

0:47:440:47:46

Just get through that bone. And that's it, really.

0:47:460:47:49

So you're chopping the shallots?

0:47:490:47:52

For the sauce and to put some in the small braising dish,

0:47:520:47:57

so I'm going to skewer it, like I said, with some lemongrass.

0:47:570:48:03

-You mentioned plaice is bang in season. It is a fantastic fish.

-Lovely.

0:48:030:48:07

We used to use it a lot.

0:48:070:48:08

It has kind of fallen out of favour with sole, I suppose.

0:48:080:48:11

People go more for the old sole because it is classed as a cheaper fish.

0:48:110:48:15

-But it's great.

-But the sole is actually more expensive.

-Yeah.

0:48:150:48:18

-Much better, that, I think, when it's fresh like this.

-Yeah.

0:48:180:48:21

But if it needs to be absolutely fresh, which this is, it's just beautiful.

0:48:210:48:26

It goes quite wet, doesn't it, if you're not careful?

0:48:260:48:29

Yes, I think you've just got to cook it properly.

0:48:290:48:32

-So you've got lemongrass. You're going to skewer it?

-That's right.

0:48:320:48:35

I'm going to go through the fish with it. Should be nice.

0:48:350:48:40

So tell us about the Clermont Club then.

0:48:400:48:43

-It something different for you.

-It's very different.

0:48:430:48:46

The reason I chose that is because... I put my name to the restaurant.

0:48:460:48:50

We're trying to open to the public for the first time

0:48:500:48:53

and that's a difficult part

0:48:530:48:55

when somewhere has been members for a long time.

0:48:550:48:58

So we're trying to make sure that everybody's happy with it.

0:48:580:49:02

But we're starting to do some really interesting food, like we've done

0:49:020:49:07

in every other restaurant I've been in. A bit more fussy.

0:49:070:49:11

-It's working.

-Just to show you how to remove the skin now.

0:49:110:49:15

So we've got the fillets,

0:49:150:49:16

you basically insert the knife underneath and just, watch this,

0:49:160:49:21

wiggle, wiggle. Wiggle the skin.

0:49:210:49:24

So I'm going to blanch that.

0:49:240:49:26

The fillets just come straight off like that.

0:49:260:49:28

Again, underneath.

0:49:280:49:31

You make that look so easy.

0:49:310:49:33

If I did that, I'd just destroy the whole thing

0:49:330:49:35

and it would all end up in the bin.

0:49:350:49:37

You could ask your fishmonger to do it for you if you need to.

0:49:370:49:40

-That's what I would do.

-It just comes straight off.

-Beautiful.

0:49:400:49:44

There you go. You can make a new handbag with that.

0:49:440:49:49

So, anyway, we've got our fish.

0:49:490:49:51

And then what do we do with this next?

0:49:510:49:54

Next... I will need the board anyway.

0:49:540:49:58

So... The idea with flatfish like this,

0:49:580:50:02

you have a smaller fillet on one side than the other side.

0:50:020:50:07

So you see these are bigger than this side.

0:50:070:50:10

So basically again skin it underneath, nice and simple.

0:50:100:50:14

We can trim off the roe afterwards. But it does come off nicely.

0:50:140:50:18

It especially helps if it's fresh. We can trim this off. There you go.

0:50:180:50:23

Your fish all prepared, sir.

0:50:230:50:26

-Super.

-There we go. Just wash my hands.

-Can I pick up the board?

0:50:260:50:32

Absolutely. Now, you're going to skewer this in lemongrass.

0:50:320:50:36

-Is that right?

-Yeah. To give a little bit something different.

0:50:360:50:40

Nice and fresh... You need to roll the fish.

0:50:400:50:46

Now, where do you get your inspiration from?

0:50:460:50:48

Because you're still classically French trained

0:50:480:50:51

but very into British seasonal food.

0:50:510:50:54

Is that the French way of looking at food anyway? The classic seasonal sort of dishes?

0:50:540:50:59

You're a big fan of British produce as well?

0:50:590:51:02

Absolutely, yes. I use probably...

0:51:020:51:04

I would say about 80% of my produce are British.

0:51:040:51:09

I mean, you've got tremendous produce.

0:51:090:51:11

There's nothing new about that. You always had it.

0:51:110:51:14

And the only thing I would say that I use which is not British

0:51:140:51:17

is some of the poultry. That's all.

0:51:170:51:19

The rest, everything comes from Britain. Definitely. It's tremendous.

0:51:190:51:23

What would you say is the main difference between the Brits and the French?

0:51:230:51:26

The French have a massive history with food.

0:51:260:51:28

Do you think it's the appreciation for great ingredients?

0:51:280:51:31

Because we kind of understand what food is

0:51:310:51:34

but really don't appreciate what's on our doorstep.

0:51:340:51:37

The difference I would say, James, when we eat in France,

0:51:370:51:41

we're more with the parents when we dine and we talk about things.

0:51:410:51:44

I think the education is more round the table, if you know what I mean.

0:51:440:51:48

And when I came in this country,

0:51:480:51:50

I realised within some of the places I was,

0:51:500:51:53

sometimes it was the children having a meal with the nanny,

0:51:530:51:57

kind of high tea, and the parents eat on their own.

0:51:570:52:01

And in my country that doesn't happen.

0:52:010:52:03

If you know what I mean?

0:52:030:52:04

And I think that is the difference because at the same time

0:52:040:52:08

-you can talk about the produce, you can talk about what you...

-Yeah.

0:52:080:52:12

-So what's happening now? We're going to seal that, are we?

-Yes.

0:52:120:52:16

I'm going to season a little bit first.

0:52:160:52:19

I'm going to seal it first to give it a nice...

0:52:190:52:21

You've got lemongrass in,

0:52:210:52:23

but what you maybe didn't see is you use a metal skewer first of all.

0:52:230:52:26

Yes, because it's easier to go through.

0:52:260:52:29

In rehearsals, he took about two hours to do that bit!

0:52:290:52:34

-You thought I wouldn't say that, didn't you?

-It's OK!

0:52:340:52:37

-Actually because I did take a little bit longer.

-There you go.

0:52:370:52:41

In we go with some butter and some olive oil just to colour this, yeah?

0:52:410:52:46

Yes, just to colour a little bit. We're going to make it really nice.

0:52:460:52:49

Now, this sauce is slightly different.

0:52:490:52:52

You're going to use whipped cream for this as well?

0:52:520:52:54

Yes, so I tend all the time... When we do this kind of sauce

0:52:540:53:00

with cream, we reduce much more of the liquid itself.

0:53:000:53:04

So we've got much more intensity and really rich in flavour.

0:53:040:53:08

There's a sink behind if you want to wash your hands.

0:53:080:53:10

And that means you just have to put a touch of whipped cream in it

0:53:100:53:16

which lightens the sauce. It's much better.

0:53:160:53:21

Otherwise I find it very rich, very heavy, very sickly sometimes.

0:53:210:53:28

-And I don't like it. So we often do that.

-So...

0:53:280:53:31

The fish is pan-fried slightly.

0:53:310:53:33

Nicely caramelised and a bit of colour. It's going to warm up.

0:53:330:53:37

The lemongrass is going to disperse a bit of flavour in it. But not too much.

0:53:370:53:41

And you just roll these up into little paupiettes?

0:53:410:53:44

-Yes. Paupiette, which is a very French word, as you say.

-OK.

0:53:440:53:50

-Now we're going to put a little bit of white wine.

-Tinfoil ready.

0:53:500:53:56

This is a very classic way of cooking.

0:53:560:53:59

I remember doing this when I was at college.

0:53:590:54:02

-But still, the old ones are the best.

-I like it. And the difference

0:54:020:54:05

like you said earlier would be the cream. It makes the dish extremely nice.

0:54:050:54:09

-So how long do we cook this for, then?

-Seven to eight minutes

0:54:090:54:13

in a 200-220 oven.

0:54:130:54:15

Right, I will grab the other fish... There we go.

0:54:150:54:21

Out here, this is our fish.

0:54:210:54:23

So this has been eight to ten minutes, something like that.

0:54:230:54:27

Absolutely. I need some tarragon.

0:54:270:54:30

Bring that over there. If I lift this off... Look at that! Beautiful.

0:54:300:54:35

-So you want me to cook the spinach?

-Yes, please.

0:54:350:54:39

-The sauce is very, very quick, isn't it?

-Very, very quick.

0:54:390:54:42

-Almost instant sauce.

-So basically have taken the skin from the tomatoes,

0:54:420:54:47

the seeds from the tomatoes and used that as a base for the plaice.

0:54:470:54:52

-There we go. Oops. The sauce is going to go straight in?

-Yeah.

0:54:520:54:58

OK. I shall wilt down that. Bit of black pepper, bit of salt.

0:54:580:55:04

The cream's there ready when you want.

0:55:040:55:08

That's it. Just a little bit like that.

0:55:080:55:12

I'll bring that over.

0:55:120:55:16

-So, the idea with this sauce, you bring it down?

-Yes. Just a bit.

0:55:160:55:21

-You want the tomatoes as well?

-Some of the tomato in it.

0:55:210:55:26

-There you are.

-Some of the tarragon.

0:55:260:55:29

-So the restaurant itself, members' club, you mentioned.

-Yes.

0:55:290:55:33

-Is that stopping you getting another Michelin?

-For the moment, it does.

0:55:330:55:37

Because we're not open to the public, so that means the guide can't come and judge and see what you're doing.

0:55:370:55:42

So that's the frustrating part of it because, you know,

0:55:420:55:46

I like doing things, and people come and try what you're doing.

0:55:460:55:50

There you go. So, the spinach, nice and simple, literally 30 seconds.

0:55:500:55:54

-Done.

-That's it, yeah, done. Lovely. A bit of salt in here.

0:55:540:55:58

-I'll pop your fish on.

-Thank you, monsieur.

-There you go.

0:55:580:56:01

Little bit of cream. That's no more than that...

0:56:010:56:05

-I'll put that on there. There you go.

-One spoon is enough.

0:56:060:56:11

Yeah, looking good.

0:56:110:56:14

And then...stick that on there.

0:56:140:56:17

And that's it.

0:56:170:56:19

England will be playing in the European Cup, if you don't hurry up.

0:56:190:56:23

-Yes, I know.

-In two years' time!

-LAUGHTER

0:56:230:56:27

So, Daniel, remind us what that is again.

0:56:270:56:29

That's a big fillet of plaice skewered with some lemon grass

0:56:290:56:32

and a light, creamy sauce with tarragon and tomato.

0:56:320:56:36

A la Francaise.

0:56:360:56:37

-Battered spinach a la Francaise is very light and refreshing.

-Brilliant.

0:56:370:56:40

Et voila!

0:56:400:56:42

Oh-ho! Right, come on over here.

0:56:460:56:48

-This is where you get to dive in again.

-The girls are very excited.

0:56:480:56:50

Can't believe you're eating again!

0:56:500:56:52

-Ohh!

-It's a hardship, coming on this show.

-It is. It's just exhausting!

0:56:520:56:57

Dive in. The lemon grass will just infuse into...

0:56:570:56:59

Yes, it will give a slightly refreshing flavour

0:56:590:57:03

on the top of the tarragon itself. It should be really light.

0:57:030:57:06

-Good portions.

-Oh, very light. That's lovely.

0:57:060:57:08

-Matt and the girls, dive in.

-Tres bien, Daniel! Very nice.

0:57:080:57:11

-A whole fish like that is not very expensive anyway.

-Plaice is a good...

0:57:110:57:15

It's in season, and all produce in season are much cheaper than,

0:57:150:57:18

-like you said, using a Dover sole or...

-Mm-hmm.

0:57:180:57:21

-Mmm!

-I'm getting nods from over there. They're diving in.

-It's good, isn't it?

0:57:210:57:24

And those lemon grass skewers are a great way to serve whitefish.

0:57:280:57:31

Theo Randall and Mark Sargeant were virtually neck-and-neck

0:57:310:57:35

on the leaderboard when they met for the Omelette Challenge.

0:57:350:57:37

And Mark was determined to get the upper hand on Theo.

0:57:370:57:40

But would they both improve? Take a look at this.

0:57:400:57:43

Right, let's get down to business.

0:57:430:57:45

All chefs that come on the show battle it out against the clock to

0:57:450:57:47

test how fast they can make a pretty straightforward three-egg omelette.

0:57:470:57:51

-Get out of it!

-Hey, hey! Now, it's going to be exciting today

0:57:510:57:54

because these guys are almost neck-and-neck on our board.

0:57:540:57:57

You've got in here... There you go. Mark is there with 32 seconds.

0:57:570:58:00

I am five seconds behind, so it's hardly neck-and-neck!

0:58:000:58:03

It's sort of like waist-and-neck, isn't it?

0:58:030:58:05

-Well, you were on the bin for about two years!

-All right, yeah, yeah!

0:58:050:58:07

We've got there, 32 seconds, and Theo, 27 seconds.

0:58:070:58:10

Do you think you can break into the blue bit?

0:58:100:58:12

Well, we both want to be in the blue, don't we?

0:58:120:58:14

-I want to be in the blue.

-You've just been to France, the home of omelettes.

0:58:140:58:17

They take their time and make them properly. You know, this isn't...

0:58:170:58:20

I expect them properly! Michelin-starred chef and all that sort of stuff.

0:58:200:58:23

-Choose what you like in the ingredients but...

-Give me the minute, then!

-Are you ready?

0:58:230:58:27

-Yeah, I'm ready.

-Three-egg omelette cooked as fast as you can.

0:58:270:58:29

-The clock stops as the omelette hits the plate.

-Get off my trousers!

0:58:290:58:33

Are you ready? Are you ready? I'm stood on their feet. Ready?

0:58:330:58:36

Three, two, one, go!

0:58:360:58:38

Just a little, a little knob of butter, then?

0:58:390:58:41

-I like a bit of butter.

-See, look, Theo's doing it differently.

0:58:410:58:45

Now, often what happens with this, it sticks.

0:58:450:58:47

Is it going to stick this time?

0:58:470:58:49

And I want an omelette, not scrambled egg. And not a fried egg.

0:58:500:58:54

It's got to be an omelette. It has got to be an omelette.

0:58:540:58:57

They say they are not competitive, these chefs,

0:58:590:59:01

-and they don't really want to do it. Look...

-Ohhh!

0:59:010:59:03

He's beat... Unbelievable.

0:59:030:59:06

There we go. Pretty good, pretty good, pretty good.

0:59:060:59:09

Half of it's left in the pan!

0:59:090:59:10

-Two-and-a-half-egg omelette, cos the other half...

-THEY LAUGH

0:59:100:59:13

-It's the pan.

-Oh. It's the pan, blame the pan.

0:59:130:59:15

This one here looks... This is...

0:59:150:59:18

I don't know how you've managed to do this.

0:59:180:59:19

Mine looks quite impressive. Look at that.

0:59:190:59:21

I don't know how he's managed to do this omelette,

0:59:210:59:23

-cos he's got the egg white and egg yolk separate.

-Quick and edible.

0:59:230:59:26

-But it's raw in the middle! It's raw!

-No, no, no, no, no, no!

0:59:260:59:29

LAUGHTER

0:59:300:59:32

It's all right.

0:59:320:59:34

It's all right. I'll let him through.

0:59:340:59:36

This one's cooked like that.

0:59:360:59:37

Most people think that's just not cooked, it's baversed.

0:59:370:59:40

-It's not seasoned.

-It's not seasoned, but it's...

0:59:400:59:43

Thank you!

0:59:430:59:44

Right. Theo...

0:59:460:59:48

-Ahh! Oh, I'm obviously beating you anyway.

-Yeah, yeah, yeah!

0:59:480:59:51

Do you reckon you've beaten your time? You were quick.

0:59:510:59:53

-No, I don't think I did.

-You reckon?

0:59:530:59:56

You were quicker than Mark, but did he beat your 27 seconds?

0:59:581:00:01

-Don't think so.

-Obviously, you've been practising,

1:00:011:00:03

because you were absolutely bang on at 27 seconds again.

1:00:031:00:06

-Ah! Again!

-I've made it.

1:00:061:00:07

-So you know you've made it.

-So you've done it, you've done it!

1:00:071:00:11

-Oh, I don't care about...

-OK, I just want to beat...

1:00:121:00:15

I just want to beat "Baldilocks" there.

1:00:151:00:17

I've got to beat him, please. 24.5 seconds.

1:00:171:00:19

Now, the reason you're saying this, this one is a mate of yours,

1:00:191:00:22

-isn't he? One of the Gordon Ramsay...

-Well, sort of, yeah.

1:00:221:00:24

-25 seconds.

-Yeah.

-You reckon you've beaten him?

1:00:241:00:27

Well, no, I hope so, but maybe not.

1:00:271:00:28

-He'll be sat at home laughing, because you haven't.

-Oh!

1:00:281:00:31

-You're just out of the top ten at 26 seconds.

-Can't believe it!

1:00:311:00:35

-I demand a recount!

-No, that's it.

-No, I'm sorry!

1:00:351:00:38

26 seconds, and I have shaved another two seconds...

1:00:381:00:41

-And I've burnt my hand.

-And it's not seasoned as well.

1:00:411:00:43

But, anyway, you got on the board!

1:00:431:00:45

Well played, Mark, and I am glad both omelettes were edible.

1:00:481:00:52

It's always a pleasure to cook with the magnificent two-star

1:00:521:00:55

Michelin chef, Michael Caines, so when he decided to make summer

1:00:551:00:58

veg soup, I knew it was going to be pretty special.

1:00:581:01:01

-It's good to have you on the show.

-Thank you.

1:01:011:01:03

It's a pleasure. What are we cooking?

1:01:031:01:05

We're going to do this summer vegetable and herb soup.

1:01:051:01:07

And we've got celeriac, some leek, some carrot and some shallots there.

1:01:071:01:10

We're going to sweat that down with some butter.

1:01:101:01:13

-Add some white wine for acidity.

-Yeah.

1:01:131:01:14

Then a second stage where we add the stock,

1:01:141:01:16

bring it to the boil, then we add our cabbage...

1:01:161:01:19

This is the second stage, this bit?

1:01:191:01:20

Absolutely. Peas, all the green veg, whilst it is boiling.

1:01:201:01:23

Finally, some tomatoes, sorrel, chervil, chives there.

1:01:231:01:27

-A little bit of creamed butter to finish...

-Touch of sugar as well.

1:01:271:01:30

Yeah, lots of sweetness. Got some wonderful basil, too.

1:01:301:01:33

-Yeah. I know I've got a lot of chopping to do.

-You like chopping.

1:01:331:01:36

If you want to do them, and I'll get the shallots on the go.

1:01:361:01:39

You know, it's one of those soups that I actually have in our menu now.

1:01:391:01:44

But, at the same time, you know,

1:01:441:01:46

I've worked in some great kitchens for some great chefs.

1:01:461:01:49

Robuchon, in France...

1:01:491:01:50

Now, Robuchon is like the king of chefs, isn't he, really?

1:01:501:01:54

-Three-star Michelin.

-Yeah, he's a bit of a legend.

-A total legend.

1:01:541:01:57

Now, a lot of people think of veg soup, but it is actually

1:01:571:02:00

on the restaurant menus of three-star Michelin restaurants.

1:02:001:02:03

Because it is...

1:02:031:02:04

-If you cook it right, it is an amazing soup, isn't it?

-Yeah.

1:02:041:02:06

I mean, Blanc uses it as well. But Robuchon did it with mussels,

1:02:061:02:12

cockles, a little bit of scallops through there.

1:02:121:02:15

Just fantastic. So it has a real varied appeal.

1:02:151:02:18

You can use it as a backdrop for all sorts of things.

1:02:181:02:21

So, it is a really good little base stock.

1:02:211:02:24

-And, of course, I'm using chicken stock.

-Yeah.

1:02:241:02:26

You don't have to use chicken stock.

1:02:261:02:28

You can use just water for vegetarians.

1:02:281:02:30

But the chicken stock just gives it a little bit of meatiness

1:02:301:02:33

and lifts everything up really, really nicely. Good.

1:02:331:02:37

And celeriac, a root veg that people don't really use so much.

1:02:371:02:40

I love the stuff, but...

1:02:401:02:42

You know, it's great with remoulade in it,

1:02:421:02:44

that salad with mustard and mayonnaise, raw, it's lovely.

1:02:441:02:48

It's one of those underused vegetables,

1:02:481:02:50

because a lot of people don't know, you know, what it is like.

1:02:501:02:52

The flavour is very similar to celery but it is a little bit...

1:02:521:02:56

Well, I think it's sweeter as well.

1:02:561:02:58

When you cook it, you've got this wonderful, you know,

1:02:581:03:02

mild flavour, and you make a great puree from it.

1:03:021:03:04

You can roast it in the winter as well.

1:03:041:03:06

But I'm going to use it just to create a nice little base stock,

1:03:061:03:09

a lovely flavour.

1:03:091:03:11

A little bit of salt in there, James. Just to draw out some moisture.

1:03:111:03:15

We're just using some unsalted butter.

1:03:151:03:18

We're going to need the carrots in with that.

1:03:181:03:21

Now, Allegra, are you making a lot of soups in your restaurant?

1:03:211:03:24

Yeah, we do a different daily soup and it is always seasonal.

1:03:241:03:27

-They change every quarter.

-Yeah.

-Yeah, good English produce.

1:03:271:03:31

There you go.

1:03:311:03:33

So it's like a chunky minestrone veg soup, this one, you know.

1:03:331:03:36

And, I suppose, really, you could take the same soup

1:03:361:03:39

and blend it in the blender.

1:03:391:03:41

But I think that takes away some of the character of it.

1:03:411:03:43

And I think it's a common mistake with veg soup as well.

1:03:431:03:46

People just think, I'll stick a load of stuff that's kind of in the fridge.

1:03:461:03:49

Going off a bit. It's got to be with fresh produce. Fresh as a daisy.

1:03:491:03:52

But also the cooking time is quite important.

1:03:521:03:55

A lot of people think you just throw it in and boil it.

1:03:551:03:57

Notice how I'm using just the root veg to start off with.

1:03:571:04:02

That's because we don't need to worry about the colour going on it.

1:04:021:04:05

We add these fresh, vibrant colours in at the end.

1:04:051:04:08

It's going to be good.

1:04:081:04:09

Once we've got that going we've got a little bit of white wine which

1:04:091:04:13

we're going to deglaze the veg with.

1:04:131:04:16

Take that down to nothing.

1:04:161:04:18

The object is to give a nice backdrop of acidity to the soup

1:04:181:04:23

because we're going to finish it with some butter and cream

1:04:231:04:27

so that's going to enrich it.

1:04:271:04:30

You want a little bit of acidity coming through.

1:04:301:04:32

You've got some water here.

1:04:321:04:33

If you're vegetarian put twice the amount of water

1:04:331:04:36

but I'm using half and half.

1:04:361:04:37

Little bit of chicken stock.

1:04:371:04:39

That just adds a little meatiness to the texture.

1:04:391:04:44

It's coming from the veg and the meatiness is a stock with

1:04:441:04:49

-real substance.

-How long do you cook that for?

-Bring it to the boil.

1:04:491:04:52

Only takes about five minutes to come up to the boil

1:04:521:04:55

so we've got a base that we've already made.

1:04:551:04:57

Nice bit of flavouring in there.

1:04:571:05:04

Really taste the celeriac.

1:05:041:05:05

As well as all this stuff you're doing at the moment,

1:05:051:05:08

you're also doing a lot of food festivals, as well.

1:05:081:05:11

Not just opening restaurants, hotels.

1:05:111:05:13

I've been up here in London and had a look at the Taste of London,

1:05:131:05:15

which is great.

1:05:151:05:17

Next week I'm doing Taste of Bath so I need to know what's going on.

1:05:171:05:20

-Down your neck of the woods then?

-It is, yeah.

1:05:201:05:22

So it's going to be fun. Four days.

1:05:221:05:24

You're all doing demos and bits and pieces.

1:05:241:05:27

It's celebrating not just the local produce

1:05:271:05:30

-but the restaurants of the area?

-Absolutely. It really is.

1:05:301:05:33

It's a chance for us to champion what's great about the southwest,

1:05:331:05:37

and Bath is in the Victorian gardens.

1:05:371:05:41

Stunning location right near the crescent.

1:05:411:05:43

And it's going to be really, really good fun.

1:05:431:05:45

Great chance to catch up with your old chums, as well.

1:05:451:05:48

-Have a few glasses of...

-A few glasses. Right.

1:05:511:05:54

What have we got in here then?

1:05:541:05:56

You've got your tomatoes which go in the end.

1:05:561:05:58

I've got the courgettes and the peas which are going into the soup.

1:05:581:06:02

Cabbage, don't cut it too long otherwise you end up

1:06:021:06:05

with like tagliatelle.

1:06:051:06:06

Put the green veg in for the last two or three minutes of the cooking.

1:06:061:06:11

This soup's texture is the chunkiness of the vegetables

1:06:111:06:15

but we're going to thicken it by adding a little bit of butter.

1:06:151:06:19

We call that monte buerre

1:06:191:06:20

and to finish it just a little drop of cream.

1:06:201:06:23

Not too much. Just to turn its colour

1:06:251:06:31

to a little bit of a creamy stock.

1:06:331:06:34

Then we're going to use... Thanks for that, James.

1:06:361:06:38

..some butter which we're going to whisk in.

1:06:381:06:40

I've never chopped so much stuff in my life.

1:06:401:06:42

Always a first.

1:06:451:06:47

You favour pastry, don't you?

1:06:491:06:50

-You put a fair bit of butter in there, didn't you?

-It is.

1:06:501:06:54

Quite rich, which we talked about, having the white

1:06:541:06:57

wine at the beginning jut to give it some balance.

1:06:571:06:59

-Do you want those tomatoes in?

-Tomatoes in.

1:06:591:07:02

What we've got to do is get these lovely fresh herbs

1:07:021:07:05

-finished...

-It wouldn't be chopping? Bit more chopping to go.

1:07:051:07:08

Not quite finished yet.

1:07:081:07:10

Not too small so I've got some sorrel here which is fantastic.

1:07:101:07:15

So sorrel, chervil and you can put the basil leaves, as well.

1:07:151:07:20

-Really fresh.

-Sorrel is fantastic but it can go black, can't it?

1:07:201:07:24

If it's overcooked.

1:07:241:07:26

When you do cook sorrel the first thing you notice,

1:07:261:07:30

unlike spinach, is that it goes this dark green-y colour.

1:07:301:07:35

And it's acidic. It gives a little bit of acidity. Which is lovely.

1:07:351:07:39

We're just going to chop up the herbs like so.

1:07:391:07:43

They say basil should be like a man's heart, bruised but not broken.

1:07:431:07:48

-Who taught you that then?

-I don't know. They were lying.

1:07:511:07:54

Here we go. Some real nice vegetables. Very chunky.

1:07:561:08:03

-Last minute. Do you want me to put the chives in?

-Put your chives in.

1:08:031:08:06

Little bit of sugar too.

1:08:061:08:07

That's really fantastic. Just brings up the sweetness...

1:08:071:08:10

You mentioned a lot of Michelin starred chefs using this on the menu.

1:08:101:08:14

They'd mix and match different things in there. Use that as a base.

1:08:141:08:17

Yeah, it's a great base.

1:08:171:08:19

Into this now you could put some cockles and clams

1:08:191:08:22

and some mussels through it.

1:08:221:08:25

Drop in some langoustines or even get in some... Little bit of salt.

1:08:251:08:31

Pepper, at the end. Seasoning's everything. And you know what?

1:08:311:08:35

This is a really lovely soup to serve because it's so fresh.

1:08:351:08:39

You've got all those herbs. Wonderful flavours coming through there. Look.

1:08:391:08:43

The colour's fantastic.

1:08:431:08:45

Unlike most vegetable soups that you try that the colour's all

1:08:451:08:49

boiled out of it really.

1:08:491:08:51

You see all those bright greens

1:08:511:08:53

and the colour of the herbs is really vibrant.

1:08:531:08:56

Tomato still holding there as well. Absolutely.

1:08:561:08:59

-Remind us what that is again.

-This is a summer vegetable and herb soup.

1:08:591:09:03

Great starter.

1:09:041:09:06

There we go. Right.

1:09:111:09:13

Dive into this. This looks great. Smells delicious.

1:09:131:09:15

Nice to see all the stuff instead of it being put into a blender and whizzed around.

1:09:161:09:20

Nice to see everything. That's what I think about soups.

1:09:221:09:25

Do you recommend a fork with your soup?

1:09:251:09:27

Let's get the right tools.

1:09:301:09:31

-Here, guys.

-Thank you.

1:09:331:09:34

Try and get everything on in one go. Is that the idea?

1:09:371:09:39

-Have a taste.

-You like your soup, Matt?

-I do, yeah.

1:09:391:09:43

That is absolutely beautiful. That is really lovely.

1:09:441:09:47

That could be a meal in itself. You're calling it a starter.

1:09:471:09:50

It's 18 quid in his restaurant.

1:09:501:09:51

Who says soup isn't for summer?

1:09:571:09:58

When Arlene Phillips faced her Food Heaven or Food Hell

1:09:581:10:01

she wanted one dish and I wanted the other.

1:10:011:10:04

Arlene was keen on chicory with goat's cheese

1:10:041:10:06

but I was determined to make my Yorkshire puddings with onion gravy.

1:10:061:10:09

But neither of us were making the decision. Let's see what happened.

1:10:091:10:14

The votes are in. They've been counted.

1:10:141:10:16

-Are the viewers on my side or your side?

-Mine.

-You reckon?

1:10:161:10:20

If they were on your side it could be the chicory you wanted

1:10:201:10:24

with goat's cheese, beetroot.

1:10:241:10:26

But your Food Hell if they vote for me could be

1:10:261:10:30

dreaded onions served with magnificent Yorkshire puddings.

1:10:301:10:33

What do you think the viewers have done?

1:10:331:10:35

I think they love me and have given me the chicory and the goat's cheese.

1:10:351:10:39

I don't think there was many dancers watching because at 94%...

1:10:391:10:47

have gone for onions. Can you believe that?

1:10:471:10:49

-94%?

-94%.

1:10:491:10:51

-Everyone's getting their own back on me.

-Huge popular vote.

1:10:521:10:58

So it's onions that you've got to do.

1:10:581:11:00

I'm going to show you how to make onion gravy first off.

1:11:001:11:03

Before we get on with the Yorkshire pudding.

1:11:031:11:05

You probably won't make this but the Yorkshire puddings, you will make.

1:11:051:11:08

The first thing for this is we need red onions.

1:11:091:11:11

I use red onions because onion gravy can be cooked quite quickly.

1:11:111:11:15

Often onion gravy is Spanish onions which you roast off, 20 minutes

1:11:151:11:19

to stew down and then a further hour to cook with the stock.

1:11:191:11:22

But if you use red onions like this...

1:11:221:11:24

-Want that chopped?

-Lovely, thank you.

1:11:241:11:27

-Sliced, chopped?

-You can both do it. There you go.

1:11:271:11:29

Got two chefs on the show. They can both do it.

1:11:291:11:32

Nice and finely chopped. We take a little bit of garlic.

1:11:321:11:35

I've got a hot pan. Can you turn that up for me?

1:11:351:11:37

-This pan?

-That's an oven. This is a stove.

1:11:381:11:42

I'm hoping there is a dial and a flame.

1:11:431:11:45

There's a dial there that says higher or lower.

1:11:451:11:48

I'll do it. There you go.

1:11:481:11:50

I told you I'm hopeless with buttons, knobs.

1:11:521:11:54

I was hopeless at dancing but you still gave me a load of grief.

1:11:541:11:57

In we go with the onions. Like that.

1:11:591:12:01

Do you know I'm still dancing? Still dancing.

1:12:011:12:04

I was in front of 2,500 people last week dancing the American Smooth

1:12:041:12:09

and the Foxtrot.

1:12:091:12:11

And they loved you.

1:12:111:12:12

Yeah. I forgot everything that I was doing but other than that... No, I didn't.

1:12:121:12:16

-I'm still doing it. I bought all the outfits and everything.

-Have you?

1:12:161:12:19

-You don't ever step on her feet, do you?

-I don't wear them outside.

1:12:191:12:22

I wear them in the comfort of my own home.

1:12:221:12:24

On with the onion gravy. Back on to here.

1:12:241:12:27

We've got our onions frying away.

1:12:271:12:29

Hot non-stick pan. No oil.

1:12:291:12:31

Cos if you put oil in now you have to take it out afterwards.

1:12:311:12:35

That's where your gravy becomes greasy.

1:12:351:12:37

-No oil at all?

-No oil, no butter, none of that.

1:12:371:12:39

This is how my granny used to do it.

1:12:391:12:41

This Yorkshire pudding recipe, there's loads of controversy

1:12:411:12:44

to it but it's my great grandmother's recipe.

1:12:441:12:47

All she ever did perfect was Yorkshire pudding so don't knock it.

1:12:471:12:50

-It's a Yorkshireman's thing.

-..covered in something that's not good for you.

1:12:501:12:56

Are we allowed to make the Yorkshire pudding?

1:12:561:12:58

No, you're not allowed to touch the Yorkshire pudding.

1:12:581:13:01

-I make mine with eight eggs.

-No, you don't.

1:13:021:13:06

I try to put mine in the fridge overnight.

1:13:061:13:10

I only use the hand whisk.

1:13:101:13:12

-Never do it in a machine.

-Can we get back on the onion gravy?

1:13:121:13:16

Onion gravy, good red wine produces good red wine sauce.

1:13:181:13:22

Good red wine. This is not Yorkshire but it's balsamic vinegar.

1:13:221:13:27

You're allowed a little bit.

1:13:271:13:31

Essex for your salt and we'll add a little bit.

1:13:311:13:36

Little difference between Modena and Yorkshire.

1:13:361:13:39

-Did your granny put balsamic?

-She did put this, proper beef stock.

1:13:391:13:43

She used to use the water from the veg but proper beef stock.

1:13:441:13:47

You can buy it in little tubs now days.

1:13:471:13:49

-People don't use it, do they?

-Potato water, cabbage water.

1:13:511:13:54

Veg water, good idea.

1:13:541:13:56

-Do you use it to cook?

-You make your gravy out of it.

-My man's our cook.

1:13:571:14:02

When you finished talking, boys, can you dump me

1:14:021:14:04

these ingredients in here.

1:14:041:14:06

I will allow you to touch this for just a second.

1:14:061:14:09

But the secret of this recipe... Ah!

1:14:091:14:12

The secret of this recipe is eight ounces of flour, eight eggs

1:14:121:14:14

and a pint of milk.

1:14:141:14:16

-Sounds like my recipe.

-It's not your recipe.

1:14:161:14:18

-I don't know why I bother on this show.

-Bring the bowl over.

1:14:191:14:22

Eight eggs, eight ounces of flour. Crack the eggs in here.

1:14:221:14:26

-The secret is do not use a machine. Never, ever.

-Told you that.

1:14:261:14:30

-Do you use a machine?

-These boys use a machine.

1:14:321:14:35

You always make Yorkshire puddings by hand.

1:14:351:14:37

If you use a machine it strengthens the gluten in the flour

1:14:371:14:40

and creates the Yorkshire puddings to be tough.

1:14:401:14:43

Always make it by hand. Doesn't matter if its got lumps in.

1:14:431:14:46

My dad always said lumps are all right as long as they're

1:14:461:14:49

in the right places.

1:14:491:14:50

There you go. Whisk this together.

1:14:511:14:54

It's still got lumps in it. Then take all the milk, straight in.

1:14:551:14:58

I reckon it's an excuse because he makes lumpy Yorkshire puddings.

1:14:581:15:02

-Stick that in there.

-YORKSHIRE ACCENT:

-It's all right to have lumps in there, love.

1:15:031:15:08

There's a lot of people north of Watford

1:15:081:15:10

and they're not coming to your restaurant now.

1:15:101:15:13

-YORKSHIRE ACCENT:

-I wear a pink shirt and I put balsamic vinegar in my onion gravy.

1:15:131:15:17

-Salt goes in here.

-I think they're insulting you.

1:15:171:15:20

I think I've got three of them. Salt in there.

1:15:201:15:23

What you need to do is stick it in the fridge overnight.

1:15:231:15:26

That's the secret of this.

1:15:261:15:28

In the oven we've got some trays heating up but the most important

1:15:281:15:32

thing with this, can't stress it enough,

1:15:321:15:34

you must use dripping in the tray.

1:15:341:15:36

Or a little bit of duck fat.

1:15:361:15:38

-But it's really important that you use dripping.

-Be careful.

1:15:381:15:43

What you need to do is as soon as it's out of the fridge you

1:15:431:15:46

stir it a little bit.

1:15:461:15:47

Don't whisk it because it's going to strengthen that flour again.

1:15:471:15:50

What you do is this. And this is important.

1:15:501:15:52

As you pop it in, listen to it.

1:15:521:15:54

PAN SIZZLES

1:15:541:15:56

Hear it?

1:15:561:15:57

Sizzling, sizzling, sizzling.

1:15:581:15:59

It starts to rise up before it goes into the oven.

1:15:591:16:03

You can see it starting to cook.

1:16:031:16:05

When you transfer it to the oven, always using a hot tray, very hot.

1:16:051:16:11

About 200C. That's 400F. Nice hot oven.

1:16:111:16:16

The secret is to leave it in the oven for 30 minutes with

1:16:161:16:18

the door closed.

1:16:181:16:20

After 20 minutes open the oven door,

1:16:201:16:22

close it straightaway just to let the steam out.

1:16:221:16:25

Otherwise they'll fall. You've got some here.

1:16:251:16:29

-Oh, wow.

-You're done this before.

1:16:291:16:31

Yorkshire puddings should be like that. Nice and even.

1:16:311:16:36

All your stuff can go in the middle.

1:16:361:16:38

It is important that stuff goes in the middle.

1:16:381:16:40

That's the deal, isn't it? It's a case?

1:16:401:16:42

-It's not just about roast beef, is it?

-This is not hell to you?

1:16:421:16:49

-That is delicious.

-It is in a minute.

1:16:491:16:52

I'm about to dump it with onions over the top.

1:16:521:16:55

We'll get onto that in a minute.

1:16:551:16:56

In Yorkshire we'd have a big one of these.

1:16:561:16:58

I remember Sunday lunch we used to have a big cake tin.

1:16:581:17:00

Look at her face.

1:17:001:17:02

Full. You'd have that full as a starter filled with onion gravy.

1:17:021:17:05

Then you'd have another one for your main course filled

1:17:051:17:08

with your roast beef and your veg and butter and all this stuff.

1:17:081:17:12

And then you'd have another one for pud but you'd eat it

1:17:121:17:15

-while watching telly with honey and jam.

-Seriously?

1:17:151:17:20

One of my contestants on MasterChef last year did a sweet Yorkshire

1:17:201:17:23

pudding with damsons and it was absolutely stunningly beautiful.

1:17:231:17:27

-Absolutely beautiful.

-I like the idea of them sweet.

1:17:271:17:31

-Was that using eight eggs?

-Eight ounces of flour and a pint of milk.

1:17:311:17:35

And not using a machine.

1:17:351:17:37

-Don't use a machine.

-And don't open the oven door.

1:17:371:17:41

It started already. Little bit of salt, little bit of pepper.

1:17:421:17:47

This is not your thing, really? Look at that face.

1:17:471:17:50

I could not... I feel those onions in my mouth. It's the feel.

1:17:501:17:54

You're about to.

1:17:541:17:55

Little bit of butter. Stick it in there.

1:17:581:18:01

We call this monte buerre.

1:18:011:18:03

Put a bit of butter in because it's fattening and we love it.

1:18:031:18:06

It creates a nice little glaze to your sauce.

1:18:061:18:09

Just chuck it in any way.

1:18:091:18:10

-Why is it we change to a posh accent when we speak French?

-Look at that.

1:18:121:18:18

Delicious Yorkshire pudding.

1:18:181:18:21

Dive into that. Knives and forks there.

1:18:221:18:24

Serve this lady while I get some wine.

1:18:241:18:27

-You have fun.

-I'll get the wine out of the fridge.

1:18:291:18:31

-Do I have to feel an onion in my mouth?

-You have to.

1:18:311:18:34

Guys, Paul, Catherine, can you come over here?

1:18:341:18:37

Why did I call you pudding?

1:18:401:18:42

It's my two left feet.

1:18:431:18:45

-I don't know if I can do this but as I put you...

-Great wine for you.

1:18:461:18:50

Penfold's. Delicious wine. £6.50, widely available.

1:18:501:18:54

-Nice shiraz will go well with it. Oliver, can you pour?

-Yes.

1:18:541:18:57

-Since I was so cruel to you...

-You've got to dive in.

1:18:571:19:00

With the onion. 94% of you. I've been waiting for this.

1:19:011:19:08

Can I say the taste is delicious? The feel was horrible. But I did it.

1:19:091:19:13

You see, even the nicest of guests don't always get their Food Heaven.

1:19:181:19:22

I'm afraid that's all we've got time for on today's Best Bites.

1:19:221:19:25

If you want to try cooking any of the great food you've

1:19:251:19:28

seen on today's programme you can find all of those studio

1:19:281:19:31

recipes on our website. Just go to bbc.co.uk/recipes.

1:19:311:19:34

There are so many delicious ideas for you to choose from.

1:19:341:19:37

So get cooking and I'll see you next time. Bye for now.

1:19:371:19:40

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