Episode 134 Saturday Kitchen Best Bites


Episode 134

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Good morning, I hope you're hungry because we've cooked up some treats.

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This is Saturday Kitchen Best Bites.

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Welcome to the show, don't go anywhere for the next 90 minutes

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because we've got some amazing chefs at the ready.

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Coming up on today's show,

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the pride of Ireland, Paul Rankin,

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is cooking a succulent rose veal chop

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and he serves it with herb butter, summer veg

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and lightly-crushed Jersey Royal potatoes.

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The man who made us all stir crazy, Ken Hom, whisks up a treat.

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He creates a stunning pork and pineapple stir-fry with noodles.

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And Marcus Wareing brings fish to the lunch table.

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He braises a beautiful piece of halibut and serves it with

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watercress, coddled quails' eggs, cobnuts and griddled baby leeks.

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And Aggie MacKenzie faced her Food Heaven or Food Hell.

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Would she get her Food Heaven -

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raspberries with my baked raspberry cheesecake made with

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raspberries she'd grown in her very own allotment,

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served with boozy berries? Or would she get her dreaded Food Hell -

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cauliflower with a pork pie and a piccalilli picnic?

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You can find out what she gets to eat at the end of today's show.

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But first, it's time for a celebration of British

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seasonal produce from chef Cass Titcombe with a little help

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from a fish that we don't often see on Saturday Kitchen - the gurnard.

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-Good to have you on the show, Cass.

-Good morning, James.

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-Your first time on the show.

-That's right, yes.

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Traditional British food. So what are we cooking then?

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-OK, today, we're doing pan-fried fillets of gurnard.

-Yep.

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We're going to serve that with a stew made from some new potatoes,

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spinach, a few broad beans,

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some mint and a little bit of crispy bacon cooked in some chicken stock.

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It's everything that's in season at the moment, that's the key to this.

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OK, so you want me to do the bacon first?

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Yeah, cut that up in to lardons, put that into that dry pan there.

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OK, so tell us about gurnard then, cos it's one of the fish that

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people don't use but I think they should do a lot more.

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Yeah, it's one of my favourite fish, I have to say,

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it's a very meaty texture,

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-similar to monkfish but it's got quite a nice, strong taste.

-Yeah.

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Kind of like a bream has that good, strong fishy taste.

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-It's also very reasonable.

-But the skin's quite firm, innit?

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It has got quite a firm skin,

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that's why you need to cut some slits in this

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when you put that in the pan, otherwise it'll really curl up

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and you won't be able to get the skin nice and crispy.

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-They used to use this as bait for lobster pots, apparently.

-Right.

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And often, it's like a pinky colour, the flesh, innit?

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You can get different colours. They go from grey to very, very deep red.

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We've got our little bacon here.

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This is the dry-cured bacon.

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So you want that frying off in a dry pan, no oil in there.

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Just need to fry that one dry.

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I'm just going to pop those there and wash my hands.

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And then, what else have we got in here? Beans?

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OK, if you could shell some broad beans for me.

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I'm going to slice up this onion.

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Gurnard, have you ever come across that?

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I've never tasted it. So, it's only a new thing?

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Is it something you're just starting to see on menus or...?

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-It's been around for a while.

-It has been around for a long time.

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Presumably, it's been around for an awful long time.

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It's been around for a long, long time. I don't know the date...

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LAUGHTER

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I'm sure it's been around for a while, yeah.

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You don't see it everywhere in fishmongers',

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I guess they don't really supply it if people don't ask for it.

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-There's not a demand there for it.

-No, no.

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I'll tell you one of the reasons for that - the name.

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It's not a very attractive name, is it?

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Well, it's like the monkfish, I always think.

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If people really didn't buy it cos they look a bit...

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The angler fish, it's a horrible-looking thing,

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but they used to use it for scampi

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and bits and pieces but now it's really expensive.

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It's like John Dory in Australia.

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-It sounds like the name of your bank manager, doesn't it? John Dory.

-OK.

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So, a little bit of oil, some butter in there.

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Yep, now this is for the stew to go with it, yeah?

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That's the stew, that's right, so we're going to cook off these onions.

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Would it be fair to say it looks like a little haddock?

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Yeah, the colour of that one is quite haddock-looking

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but when you get the red ones, they look more like a red mullet.

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Yeah, OK.

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Right, so, potatoes.

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That's right, I'm just going to cut these into quarters.

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You want to sweat these for about ten minutes just so they get nice

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-and soft, no colour.

-Now, where did you learn your love of food from?

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-From the parents?

-Yeah, I guess so.

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My mum and dad are both great cooks.

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They moved the family to live in the hills of Wales

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when I was about six years old,

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they wanted to be very self-sufficient and that,

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obviously, involved keeping animals, we had chickens and ducks

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and goats which I had to milk.

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Planting lots of vegetables and just generally trying to, you know...

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Well, Wales has got a terrific larder up there.

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Were you right up in the highlands?

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Cos I was up in Anglesey, beautiful part of the world.

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Yeah, a little bit further south than that,

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just kind of inland from Aberystwyth and the Cambrian Mountains.

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Right.

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And, as a child, wanting to eat cakes...

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But your parents used to make everything, didn't they?

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That's right, yeah, everything - jams, chutneys

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and if I wanted a cake, I was basically handed a recipe book

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and told to make it, with a little bit of instruction initially.

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-It's the best way to be, though.

-Yeah, absolutely.

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So, tell us about the Canteen,

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the ethos behind that then cos you started off with one.

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Yeah, we started our first one about five years ago.

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Approaching our fifth birthday.

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Really, we wanted to raise the standard of the cooking

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on the high street.

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British food, simple, prepared in-house,

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open all day so we're open from eight in the morning...

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-..till 11 at night.

-So, there's no lunch and dinner service?

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It literally goes all the way through,

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you can also have breakfast...

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-Sorry, can I just have some black pepper, please?

-Yep, there you go.

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You can have breakfast at any time of day.

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Right, get those gurnard fillets in,

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you want to start that off nice and hot.

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And this is why it's good to keep that skin on it.

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-Yeah, that's right, you can get a nice, crispy skin off that.

-Yeah.

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-You won't forget the garlic.

-OK. Now, that needs to go in.

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So, you cook those onions and potatoes for how long roughly?

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OK, you're going to sweat those for about ten minutes,

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just till they're nice and soft.

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-Now, how many restaurants have you got at the moment?

-Four.

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We've got one in Spitalfields, Baker Street, Canary Wharf

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and one in the Royal Festival Hall on the South Bank.

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And are we going to see Canteens opening throughout the UK?

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-Is that the plan?

-It's definitely part of the plan.

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We want to open another 15 to 20 over the next 3 to 5 years.

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Just another 15 or 20(!) A bit like you, Bill.

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OK, so that's just browning off nicely.

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I'm just going to reduce the heat on that one a little bit.

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-I'm going to put the garlic in with the potatoes and onions.

-Yeah.

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Some chicken stock.

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I'm cooking Louise's special portion here.

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Just a little bit cos you've got put the bacon in there as well.

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That's right. And you could, if you want...

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-Got that.

-If you wanted the fish but you don't eat meat,

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you can do that with either vegetable stock and omit the bacon.

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Now, you mentioned your book. Tell us what that is then.

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Literally the same ethos as the restaurants - British food?

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Yeah, that's right, it's called Great British Food.

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It's just a collection of recipes, really,

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things that are on the menu at the moment

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like big favourites of our customers,

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and also things that have been on at some point over the past few years.

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I mean you don't have a different menu for each different restaurant?

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No, we have the same menu in all the restaurants,

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it's all exactly the same.

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We change it a few times a year, just seasonally,

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just so we can use things when they're at their best.

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OK, so I'm going to take those broad beans.

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If you could roughly chop that spinach for me.

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I'm going to put the broad beans into that stew.

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That's ready for you, the mint's there as well.

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-The bacon, you want this drained off, yeah?

-That's right, thank you.

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And you're appearing at a lot of these food festivals.

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Yeah, I've been doing quite a few this year.

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There's a great one in Abergavenny coming up, isn't there?

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That's right, I'm doing that in September.

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Also done Taste Of London a few weeks ago and I'm doing a launch for the

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Real Food Market which is going to be in Royal Festival Hall next weekend.

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-Keeping busy then?

-Yeah, just a little bit.

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So, the mint's going to go in there so I'll just swap that over.

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OK, I just need to flip over these fish fillets.

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So, you almost cook that all the way through on the skin side?

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That's right, yeah, and then just turn it over

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and give it just another minute on the other side, that's all it needs.

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-Right, so do you want to season this up?

-Yeah.

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If people are looking for different types of fish that they could use?

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Great stuff like ling...

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Yeah, there's a lot of different sustainable fish around that

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people can use.

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There's ling, there's pollock, saying that,

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pollock has started to get a lot more expensive these days.

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Yeah, but don't just go for cod and haddock all the time.

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No, no, we try to use different things.

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We sell fish and chips in the restaurant, we have it on every day.

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-Is it done with beer batter?

-No, we bread our fish and chips actually.

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Ah, you know, some of our bigger restaurants,

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we're serving up to 800 covers a day so...

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-Now, you've used chicken stock for this.

-That's right, yeah.

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That's the reason why you haven't got any.

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Do you want some bacon on the top?

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I know what you vegetarians are like with your bacon.

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LAUGHTER

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-Do you want?

-Could you put some of that bacon on that plate for me?

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-A bit of bacon on there?

-Yeah.

-How about that?

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OK, and then we just...

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-pop the gurnard on to the top.

-It looks pretty. It looks so good.

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-There.

-Almost there.

-Yeah.

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-And there you have it.

-Anything else on the top?

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-No, that's all ready to go.

-Remind us what it is?

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Pan-fried fillets of gurnard, with new potatoes, broad beans,

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spinach, mint and some crispy bacon.

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How fantastic does that look?

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It looks fantastic, I know it tastes fantastic,

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because I had some in rehearsal.

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Have a sit over here, Cass. Dive into that.

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Tell us what you think.

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-Thank you.

-Dive into that. Tell us what you think.

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-Have you had the fish before, Louise?

-I haven't, no.

-Gurnard.

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-Have you tried this before?

-No, I'm not aware of gurnard's work.

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It's not the best name, but the texture, like you say,

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-is a bit like monkfish.

-Pollock's not a great name either, is it?

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It's not very good, no. The texture is monkfish-y.

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Firm, meaty, similar to monkfish, but it's got a stronger taste, I think.

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It's also one of components of a fish soup or...

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Yeah, that's why it'll take flavours like bacon, stronger flavours.

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What do you reckon?

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Mm!

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Mm?

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It's much more... It takes a lot more eating.

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Yeah, than the lemon sole.

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-But it's a meaty fish.

-Yeah.

-Yeah, it's lovely.

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There you go, "it's lovely".

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That veg stew is a real summer treat. You have to try it.

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Coming up, I'll make cheese croquets with Lincolnshire Poacher

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for Richard E Grant,

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after Rick Stein hunts down a cheese of his own - Lancashire cheddar.

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I'm on my way to Lancashire, and you've probably guessed why...

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Because, on a culinary trip such as mine,

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where I'm really looking for good regional flavours and produce,

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I've been eagerly anticipating exploring

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the steamy depths of the county's most famous dish.

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So, I rang up a friend of mine, Nigel Haworth, at Northcote Manor,

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who's fiercely passionate about anything that comes from Lancashire,

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and said, "Please, can you make me the ultimate hotpot?"

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Which I'm pleased to say he did!

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Been cooking this for four hours now.

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It's a lovely pot. Is that a traditional pot, Nigel?

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That is, yeah.

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I'm told every household had one of these, in Lancashire.

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-It smells...

-It smells wonderful, doesn't it?

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I don't think there's any dish that's more appetising than this, really.

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There isn't.

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And that long, slow cooking is the thing that makes it so special.

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What lamb cuts are in there?

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We use the cheap cuts of lamb.

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Under shoulder, we're looking at neck, and then shin.

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And shin's really important to get that real gelatinous feel

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-to your hotpot.

-The thing I like is that it doesn't taste fatty.

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Quite often in a hotpot, it's almost overpoweringly rich fat.

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But the other thing that's so good about this is the red cabbage, right?

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Because the thing is about all these dishes, is the accompaniments.

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I think one of the main things about this area of Lancashire is that

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we have absorbed some of the influences of people

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coming in to live here.

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When a lot of the Asian people were brought over

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to work in the mills et cetera, and they brought all their spices over,

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you've now got, with Lancashire hotpot,

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a very spicy red cabbage, which you didn't have in the old days.

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-I sense a bit of star anise in there.

-Star anise in there,

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chilli in there. Yeah.

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And it just enhances what we're doing today in Lancashire,

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so this is a today's Lancashire hotpot.

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Well, I have to say, on my last trip to find the perfect hotpot,

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and, indeed, I did find the perfect hotpot,

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at Nigel Haworth's place

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I couldn't find a hotpot in any pub, any restaurant, any hotel, anywhere.

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Lots of other food, as usual.

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Creole cooking, Thai cooking - you name it.

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But a local dish like hotpot? No chance.

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And you just think, "What is wrong with this country?"

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When you've got such a fantastic dish,

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which goes so well with red wine, why isn't it in the pubs?

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Please, chefs out there, start cooking your Lancashire hotpot.

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It's great. OK. First of all, I'm using best end chops,

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but I'm going to trim the whole end off, cos the thing about hotpot

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is not to get too much fat in there, otherwise it's a bit overpowering.

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Excuse me. I have to look down here now.

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Cutting myself with a mandolin is one thing,

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but chopping my fingers off is not quite the same joke,

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I think you'll agree.

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OK. There you go. It's knocking all that off.

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Now you've just got a very neat little chop like that,

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which will look really good in the finished stew.

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There's my best end chops done,

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but one thing I picked up from Nigel, and it's a really good idea,

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is to use some lamb shank as well, cos when that cooks over

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a long period, it makes the stew very nice and gelatinous.

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So I'm just going to slice some lamb shank...

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and put that in too. I've also got some kidneys.

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Some recipes do have lamb's kidneys, some don't,

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but I like a few kidneys in there.

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I've just cut them in half

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and removed the sinewy bits in the middle.

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I'm just hand-slicing these potatoes.

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You can use a mandolin, but, actually,

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if you do them by hand, they always end up a bit thicker, and you need

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a slightly chunkier slice, cos they'd otherwise break down in the cooking.

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There we go.

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To make up the hotpot, you brush the bottom of the pan

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with melted butter to stop the potatoes from sticking.

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Begin with potatoes and build up the stew in layers.

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Next, onions, and then the meat, half chops and half shin,

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and some of the kidneys.

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Now add thyme. I think it goes particularly well with lamb.

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A good quantity of salt and freshly ground black pepper.

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You often find other ingredients in a hotpot. I've added kidneys.

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But sometimes they put in black pudding, mushrooms,

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and even oysters when they were particularly cheap.

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It's important to season every layer.

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Finally, just some chicken stock, but you can use water.

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There'll be so much flavour in the stew anyway.

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Top with a neat layer of potatoes, because you want it to look

0:16:130:16:16

pretty when it comes out of the oven, all brown and crackling.

0:16:160:16:19

Just press those down a little bit.

0:16:210:16:23

Now just a little bit of melted butter on the top.

0:16:240:16:27

Actually, this Lancashire hotpot came from a time

0:16:270:16:31

when nobody had ovens, and everybody took their individual pots

0:16:310:16:35

to the local baker who put it in the baker's oven

0:16:350:16:37

after he'd done his bread.

0:16:370:16:39

Then when you came back, presumably from a shift at the mill,

0:16:390:16:42

there was your pot all bubbling and hot - hence hotpot.

0:16:420:16:46

I'm putting it in the oven for about two hours, but it's even better

0:16:470:16:51

if you can leave it for about six to eight on a gentler heat.

0:16:510:16:55

I took the lid off for the last 20 minutes.

0:16:550:16:58

I can't think why regional stews like this

0:16:590:17:01

aren't more available everywhere.

0:17:010:17:03

I mean, think of a similar dish - scouse from Liverpool, or Irish stew,

0:17:030:17:08

or Welsh cawl for that matter -

0:17:080:17:10

all of them so good that, if they were in France,

0:17:100:17:13

they would be famous regional specialities,

0:17:130:17:16

like bouillabaisse in Marseilles,

0:17:160:17:18

coq au vin in Burgundy,

0:17:180:17:20

or cassoulet in the Languedoc.

0:17:200:17:21

To finish off, some pickled red cabbage,

0:17:220:17:24

which adds such a sharp piquancy to the dish.

0:17:240:17:28

Still in Lancashire,

0:17:310:17:32

I'm going to see the famous Mrs Kirkham,

0:17:320:17:35

who owns a small farm in the shadow of the Pennines.

0:17:350:17:38

I've used her Lancashire Cheese in my restaurant for about 20 years now.

0:17:380:17:43

There are probably lots of people who think she's a product

0:17:430:17:46

of some marketing man's imagination, like Mr Kipling,

0:17:460:17:50

but she and her son Graham do make exceedingly good cheeses.

0:17:500:17:54

We actually started making cheese, all those years ago

0:17:580:18:02

because, running such a very small farm, with only 30 acres here...

0:18:020:18:05

why I decided to make cheese was to keep us going in some industry.

0:18:070:18:11

It is like a little cottage industry,

0:18:110:18:13

and it has actually kept us in farming.

0:18:130:18:16

If I hadn't made cheese,

0:18:160:18:19

we would have been out of farming many years ago.

0:18:190:18:21

It's like looking after a baby, really.

0:18:260:18:29

Each one is individual,

0:18:290:18:31

and you like them to have a lovely finish to them.

0:18:310:18:35

So, if you make a nice job of binding them,

0:18:350:18:38

they have a nice finish to them.

0:18:380:18:40

I was surprised they matured the cheese

0:18:420:18:44

in an old refrigerated lorry trailer.

0:18:440:18:47

I thought it would be in a cool, stone cellar.

0:18:470:18:50

This is around six to eight weeks old,

0:18:510:18:53

so the curd's starting to break down, and this cheese is

0:18:530:18:56

starting to go creamy, but you still get a nice milky taste.

0:18:560:18:59

So if you just give this a go.

0:18:590:19:01

Graham, Mrs Kirkham's son, reminded me of a fine wine maker.

0:19:010:19:05

And, indeed, cheese is a bit like making wine,

0:19:050:19:07

both from the point of view of the living culture that's

0:19:070:19:10

added to the milk, and the long maturing process.

0:19:100:19:13

Although I was taken aback at first, I really like the trailer.

0:19:130:19:17

It's making use of everything and it does the job.

0:19:170:19:21

It's not just when you eat it,

0:19:210:19:22

but once you've eaten it and it's gone, you'll get this

0:19:220:19:24

fantastic flavour in your mouth and it'll last for five or ten minutes.

0:19:240:19:27

-It's so good!

-That's beautiful.

-Like a fine wine.

-Yes!

0:19:270:19:32

I love Mrs Kirkham's cheese

0:19:330:19:35

and I can think of no better way of eating it than just with some

0:19:350:19:39

nice crusty bread, a pint of beer and some pickled onions.

0:19:390:19:42

But one of the things I notice about it is that it's very crumbly,

0:19:420:19:45

and I was talking to a friend the other day, a lady,

0:19:450:19:49

and she was saying, "Why don't you have any nice big salads

0:19:490:19:52

"for us ladies at lunchtime in your restaurant?"

0:19:520:19:56

And I thought, "Yeah, she's got a point."

0:19:560:19:58

So, I thought of Mrs Kirkham's cheese and this is what I did.

0:19:580:20:02

I made up some mixed salad leaves, including baby beetroot,

0:20:020:20:05

lamb's lettuce and rocket.

0:20:050:20:08

I poured on olive oil and sprinkled with salt and black pepper,

0:20:080:20:11

and tossed everything in a big bowl.

0:20:110:20:14

Then I thinly sliced some Lancashire cheese and crumbled it.

0:20:150:20:18

What's special about this cheese is that it's creamy

0:20:180:20:21

but also has a pleasing acidity about it.

0:20:210:20:25

I started with some of the leaves, then I took some pancetta,

0:20:250:20:29

which is like very fine streaky bacon...

0:20:290:20:31

I'd already fried it

0:20:310:20:33

until crisp with a little bit of balsamic vinegar.

0:20:330:20:36

Next, the first lot of cheese, followed by some beetroot

0:20:360:20:40

which I'd steeped in wine vinegar, with a little chilli and garlic.

0:20:400:20:45

I added more leaves,

0:20:450:20:46

gradually building up a really interesting lunch dish,

0:20:460:20:49

designed specifically for the sort of people that like a big salad

0:20:490:20:54

and a glass of Chardonnay in the middle of the day.

0:20:540:20:57

Now then, it may not be the rufty-tufty way

0:20:590:21:02

of eating Mrs Kirkham's cheese,

0:21:020:21:04

but, for the ladies that lunch in my restaurant,

0:21:040:21:08

it does very well, thank you.

0:21:080:21:09

It's not just ladies that lunch

0:21:160:21:17

who enjoy Mrs Kirkham's Lancashire cheddar. It's delicious

0:21:170:21:20

and I've got some here, but my favourite...

0:21:200:21:22

This is the Lancashire one.

0:21:220:21:23

..but my favourite is this one - Lincolnshire Poacher.

0:21:230:21:26

I'm going to show you a great dish, not just for ladies who lunch,

0:21:260:21:29

but for guys too.

0:21:290:21:30

It's potato croquettes, but cheese in the middle,

0:21:300:21:32

with a little salsa and a salad on the side.

0:21:320:21:35

Starting off here, we've got some baked potatoes which I've baked

0:21:350:21:38

and then taken the filling out, because I want them quite dry.

0:21:380:21:40

The problem is, when you boil them, they can be quite wet,

0:21:400:21:43

particularly for croquettes. Salt and pepper in.

0:21:430:21:45

I'm going to mould them into a croquettes

0:21:450:21:48

and then flour, egg and breadcrumb them. These are our jackets here.

0:21:480:21:51

You can obviously keep those and deep-fry them if you want.

0:21:510:21:54

But this cheese is just delicious.

0:21:540:21:55

Wonderful stuff, this one.

0:21:570:21:59

We're just going to cut it up into wedges,

0:21:590:22:02

then I'm going to mould that around my potato.

0:22:020:22:05

Now, Richard, you're not a big fan of dairy produce, are you?

0:22:070:22:10

-Not hugely, no.

-Can you manage a bit of cheese, like this?

0:22:100:22:14

-Yeah, I'll have a go.

-We just put a little piece in there.

0:22:140:22:16

And then pop that in there too, and then the idea is

0:22:180:22:21

to mould this potato just over the top so the cheese is inside.

0:22:210:22:25

This is different to the type of food you had in your upbringing.

0:22:250:22:28

-You were brought up in Swaziland.

-Yep.

0:22:280:22:31

There wasn't a huge choice of stuff in the '60s, and I got,

0:22:310:22:35

I think because of the heat, migraines when I was a kid,

0:22:350:22:38

so cheese was the one thing that they said to avoid.

0:22:380:22:42

What kind of food was it you were brought up on?

0:22:420:22:44

-It was traditional English food, wasn't it?

-Traditional English.

0:22:440:22:48

We had an African cook who my mother taught to cook seven dishes,

0:22:480:22:54

so each day of the week we knew exactly what we were going to get.

0:22:540:22:57

-They were just all traditional English fare?

-Yep.

0:22:570:23:00

Roast beef, chicken, lamb, Lancashire hotpot,

0:23:000:23:04

cottage pie, shepherd's pie,

0:23:040:23:07

fish on a Friday, and that was it.

0:23:070:23:09

I mean, getting the ingredients out there must have been hard work?

0:23:090:23:12

Oh, there's plenty of meat, and a lot of stuff was tinned.

0:23:120:23:16

And fish was not usually fresh,

0:23:170:23:19

so my father used to eat these

0:23:190:23:21

fluorescent orange kippers for breakfast,

0:23:210:23:24

so I've had a life-long aversion to them ever since.

0:23:240:23:27

You mentioned at the top of the show that your food heaven

0:23:270:23:30

-would be these fantastic Mozambique prawns.

-Yep.

0:23:300:23:34

-That came from, what, your travels to Mozambique?

-Yeah.

0:23:340:23:37

We used to go, because it was the one place you could get to the sea,

0:23:370:23:40

which was 100 miles from where we lived, so you could go,

0:23:400:23:44

spend the day at the beach,

0:23:440:23:45

and then have this big feast of prawns at night.

0:23:450:23:47

-So it was great childhood memories of doing that.

-Delicious.

0:23:470:23:51

I mean, throughout your career, you went to Cape Town,

0:23:510:23:54

came back to the UK, travelled so much...

0:23:540:23:59

and what amazes me is that your love of cooking

0:23:590:24:03

isn't just from your travels...

0:24:030:24:05

Was it last week you ended up cooking for your birthday?

0:24:050:24:08

-For 130 people?!

-I know, it's complete madness.

0:24:080:24:12

My wife is from Aberdeen, and she has this Scottish Calvinist idea

0:24:120:24:17

that if you're going to entertain people to show your appreciation

0:24:170:24:22

for your friendship or your love of them,

0:24:220:24:24

that you should do all the cooking yourself.

0:24:240:24:26

She said, "We're not having caterers."

0:24:260:24:28

I said, "I can afford to!" She said, "We'll cook it ourselves."

0:24:280:24:31

I said, "There's 130 people for my 50th birthday."

0:24:310:24:33

She said, "Right, we're doing it."

0:24:330:24:34

So, we cooked for three days and...

0:24:340:24:36

it was worthwhile...

0:24:360:24:37

-I nearly had a breakdown.

-Seemed like a good idea, but never again.

0:24:370:24:40

Exactly. When I first married her 24 years ago,

0:24:400:24:44

I could barely boil an egg, so I've learnt along the way

0:24:440:24:48

-watching guys like you.

-Well, hopefully, yeah.

0:24:480:24:51

I've taken the potato and the cheese, so it's inserted inside.

0:24:510:24:55

I've got flour, egg and breadcrumb,

0:24:550:24:57

and I've got some deep-frying in here.

0:24:570:25:00

The secret of this is you deep-fry it at quite a low temperature.

0:25:000:25:03

About 160, something like that.

0:25:030:25:05

You want them just to colour gently, but not colour too much.

0:25:050:25:09

I want to keep that cheese

0:25:090:25:10

nice and melted in the middle.

0:25:100:25:12

If it's cooked too hot,

0:25:120:25:13

obviously, it's going to be brown on the outside

0:25:130:25:16

and the cheese won't be soft in the middle.

0:25:160:25:18

So a simple little salsa to go with this, because you have the potatoes

0:25:180:25:21

and the cheese, then what you want is something sharp to offset it.

0:25:210:25:26

We will just get some tomatoes, onions

0:25:260:25:28

and gently fry these off.

0:25:280:25:30

How many people in the country own one of these deep-fat fryers?

0:25:300:25:35

I don't know. You can use a pan.

0:25:350:25:37

I've got one! I never use it.

0:25:370:25:40

The easiest way to test it, if you're doing it in a pan...

0:25:400:25:43

Pans, you really don't want to use

0:25:430:25:45

when you're deep-fat frying stuff if you can help it.

0:25:450:25:47

Normal deep-fat fryer's the best. But if you are using a pan,

0:25:470:25:50

be careful of the amount of oil you put in there

0:25:500:25:52

and just drop a little bit of bread in there to test it first.

0:25:520:25:55

And that will dictate whether the pan is at the right temperature.

0:25:550:25:58

Don't just pop them in, throw a little bit of bread in.

0:25:580:26:01

A little piece of bread.

0:26:010:26:02

If it goes brown straightaway, you know it's too hot.

0:26:020:26:05

Just keep checking them like that. In we go with the pan.

0:26:050:26:08

This is kind of like a little warm salsa.

0:26:080:26:10

We've got some capers in here to add a little bit of saltiness to it.

0:26:100:26:14

We've got lemon juice,

0:26:140:26:15

a touch of lemon juice.

0:26:150:26:18

A bit of that in there.

0:26:180:26:19

Red wine vinegar, which I love in salsas.

0:26:190:26:23

A touch of that.

0:26:230:26:24

And then rapeseed oil.

0:26:240:26:26

Just delicious.

0:26:260:26:29

Now, you've got a long day today lined up for you, haven't you?

0:26:290:26:32

Yeah, it's the 60th anniversary of BAFTA,

0:26:320:26:35

so I'm hosting the, er,

0:26:350:26:39

film proms at the Albert Hall this evening.

0:26:390:26:43

-This will be televised this evening?

-Yes.

0:26:430:26:46

It's going on BBC Two, I think. Radio 2, as well.

0:26:460:26:50

So they're playing all film music from Dam Busters, all the way

0:26:500:26:53

through Patrick Doyle's Much Ado About Nothing

0:26:530:26:55

-to Harry Potter. All great British film music.

-A bit of everything.

0:26:550:26:58

If anybody's interested in listening to it, it is

0:26:580:27:01

on Radio 3 this evening, as well.

0:27:010:27:02

So we've got in here some salad, a bit more of this rapeseed oil,

0:27:020:27:06

just a touch.

0:27:060:27:08

A touch of olive oil.

0:27:080:27:10

A touch of lemon juice, bit over the top like that.

0:27:100:27:13

This a quick mix.

0:27:130:27:15

Just keep it lovely and light, simple. Watercress as well.

0:27:150:27:18

Love the pepperiness of this. Pop that on the plate.

0:27:180:27:21

Then I'll drain these off.

0:27:210:27:23

You can tell when they're just about ready,

0:27:230:27:26

the cheese starts to come out of them.

0:27:260:27:28

I'll just cut one on this board,

0:27:280:27:30

so you can actually see what they look like.

0:27:300:27:33

You just cut straight through.

0:27:330:27:35

They're lovely, cheesy in the middle.

0:27:350:27:38

And then, grabbing some of our salsa,

0:27:380:27:42

I'll just put that on the side for you.

0:27:420:27:45

It's not the king prawns yet.

0:27:450:27:47

-That's if they get picked.

-Please pick them! Please!

0:27:470:27:50

Just a few of those on the side.

0:27:500:27:53

A simple little brunch, that.

0:27:530:27:55

Have a dive into that, tell us what you think.

0:27:550:27:58

I know you're not a massive dairy fan, but...

0:27:580:28:00

You've got potato in there to mix it up.

0:28:000:28:03

They will be quite hot.

0:28:030:28:05

So I'll burn my tongue.

0:28:050:28:08

Mix it with a bit of salsa, probably. Cool it down.

0:28:080:28:11

It is hot, yeah.

0:28:130:28:15

LAUGHTER

0:28:150:28:16

Just nod.

0:28:160:28:18

RICHARD MUMBLES

0:28:180:28:19

See, I did tell you it was hot, Richard.

0:28:240:28:26

Now, if you'd like to try cooking any of the studio recipes

0:28:260:28:28

you've seen on today's show, all of those are just a click away at

0:28:280:28:31

bbc.co.uk/recipes.

0:28:310:28:34

Today, we're looking back at some of the great

0:28:340:28:36

cooking from the Saturday Kitchen archives.

0:28:360:28:38

And now it's time for the man who won Ireland

0:28:380:28:40

its very first Michelin star, Paul Rankin,

0:28:400:28:43

to get creative with veal.

0:28:430:28:45

And then he cooks some lettuce. I kid you not.

0:28:450:28:48

-Welcome back.

-Always enjoy it.

-Exactly. What are we cooking today?

0:28:480:28:51

-We're cooking some proper food.

-Proper food.

0:28:510:28:54

This is a rose veal chop.

0:28:540:28:56

Check that out. It's a great British product.

0:28:560:28:58

We're going to be cooking it up with some beautiful summer vegetables.

0:28:580:29:01

We've got some romaine lettuce,

0:29:010:29:03

some broad beans, some peas,

0:29:030:29:05

scallions or spring onions.

0:29:050:29:06

This is just like your garden at the moment.

0:29:060:29:08

Jersey Royals, scallion

0:29:080:29:10

and bacon, some herbs, butter.

0:29:100:29:12

So all of this...

0:29:120:29:14

Take away the lemon, all of this is British.

0:29:140:29:16

All of it. There you go.

0:29:160:29:17

First of all, you're going to get the veal out.

0:29:170:29:20

I'm going to take the broad beans.

0:29:200:29:21

OK, this is a veal chop.

0:29:210:29:23

And rose veal chop.

0:29:230:29:26

This particular cut is kind of as the sirloin goes into the rib.

0:29:260:29:32

So it's part of the rib roast and you get chops all the way down.

0:29:320:29:35

Now, rose veal is sort of humanely-reared veal.

0:29:350:29:41

You'll get a lot of people watching this going, "Veal..."

0:29:410:29:44

Still got that mentality as it was ten years ago.

0:29:440:29:46

It's a weird thing.

0:29:460:29:48

Basically, what it is, it is young beef.

0:29:480:29:52

It's young beef.

0:29:520:29:54

We should be eating more of it, shouldn't we, Arthur?

0:29:540:29:56

It supports the dairy industry anyway.

0:29:560:29:58

There's a lot of calves that come out of the industry,

0:29:580:30:01

they just get culled. So we should be eating them.

0:30:010:30:04

They either get culled or they get shipped off to

0:30:040:30:06

Holland to get reared in crates.

0:30:060:30:08

The rose veal, they are farmed in barns, about eight to ten in a barn.

0:30:080:30:13

They get to roam about and do whatever they want, frolic.

0:30:130:30:16

It gives a slightly darker colour,

0:30:160:30:20

but it's still got that lovely texture.

0:30:200:30:22

So lots of salt and pepper on it.

0:30:220:30:24

It's wonderful on a barbecue.

0:30:240:30:26

I'm just cooking it with a bit of light olive oil and butter.

0:30:260:30:29

I'll just dice up a bit of my bacon and my potatoes.

0:30:290:30:33

Broad beans, you want these podding and then podding again?

0:30:330:30:36

These have been podded once, but you want them podded again?

0:30:360:30:39

We don't have to blanch them and shell them, but I do love that.

0:30:390:30:43

It adds a real bit of colour to this dish.

0:30:430:30:46

So the bacon is going in there

0:30:460:30:49

-for the potatoes.

-Sorry.

0:30:490:30:52

So you just chop the bacon up. This veal, you'll seal it?

0:30:520:30:57

Bumping into you, man, it gives you a real shake.

0:30:570:31:00

He's a big boy, I'm a bony guy!

0:31:000:31:03

What were you talking about?

0:31:030:31:05

This, you're going to seal it to add colour?

0:31:050:31:07

Yeah, we want some really nice caramelisation on there.

0:31:070:31:10

It's like cooking a steak.

0:31:100:31:12

As I said, it's wonderful on the barbecue, as well.

0:31:120:31:15

Actually, we're going to get the...

0:31:150:31:18

the lettuce and peas on first.

0:31:180:31:20

Get those ready.

0:31:200:31:22

So, with the lettuce, I love to take

0:31:220:31:25

the sweet heart of the lettuce.

0:31:250:31:27

The top of the leaves can sometimes be a little bit bitter.

0:31:270:31:30

You know an interesting fact about broad beans?

0:31:300:31:33

That links you together, as well?

0:31:330:31:35

Is that broad beans, you're supposed to give these

0:31:350:31:38

to people when they get married.

0:31:380:31:39

-Are you serious?

-It means ensure the birth of a baby son.

0:31:390:31:43

-I'm going to send...

-You've got about a dozen, haven't you?

0:31:430:31:47

LAUGHTER

0:31:470:31:48

I was given a lot of... I'm going to send everyone

0:31:480:31:50

a broad bean who gets married from now on.

0:31:500:31:53

They're also delicious.

0:31:530:31:54

But that shelling business, that's quite a hassle, isn't it?

0:31:540:31:58

They are delicious. Bang in season at the moment.

0:31:580:32:00

My garden's full of these and full of peas, as well.

0:32:000:32:03

Another great thing out there, they call them habitas fritas,

0:32:030:32:06

which are the... The Spanish actually deep-fry these

0:32:060:32:10

with salt, don't they? A bit like we do peanuts.

0:32:100:32:12

-They're absolutely delicious.

-Are they the slightly dried ones?

0:32:120:32:15

-But they're fried and roasted broad beans.

-Very good.

0:32:150:32:18

So need a bit more heat on this veal, actually.

0:32:180:32:22

So, once it's nice and brown, we're going to pop it in the oven.

0:32:220:32:25

That will take about eight minutes.

0:32:270:32:29

You can cook that on top of the stove.

0:32:290:32:32

A chop that size will take a good five minutes either side.

0:32:320:32:35

About 400... about 200 degrees centigrade.

0:32:350:32:38

-Classically, it's served pink.

-There you go.

0:32:380:32:40

What have you got in there?

0:32:400:32:42

Just blanching the lettuce.

0:32:420:32:44

It sort of removes a little bit of the bitterness.

0:32:440:32:46

You can use the Little Gem, as well. You've got romaine there.

0:32:460:32:49

But the Little Gem is very, very good for that, as well.

0:32:490:32:52

-You didn't really put me on that website, did you?

-Yeah, I did.

0:32:520:32:56

-I bigged you up.

-You won't be sorry.

0:32:560:32:58

Jeanne will be happy.

0:32:580:33:00

She'll love you for that, James!

0:33:000:33:01

"You know that James Martin, I never trusted him! I never trusted him."

0:33:010:33:04

The worst thing is, I put your mobile number on. No, joking.

0:33:040:33:08

Right, here's the peas.

0:33:080:33:09

This is a nice broth you'll serve this with.

0:33:090:33:11

Well, it's kind of like a broth.

0:33:110:33:13

Adding a little bit of chicken stock.

0:33:130:33:16

And then in goes a bit of butter.

0:33:160:33:19

In goes the veg.

0:33:190:33:21

With the peas and everything else.

0:33:240:33:26

What you need is one of Nick Nairn's handy scraper things.

0:33:260:33:28

Do you want me to drain out this...

0:33:280:33:31

There you go. Lettuce?

0:33:310:33:33

Just whack that in there.

0:33:330:33:35

-Get the broad beans in here, James.

-There's the broad beans.

0:33:350:33:38

You can see, once they've been podded it goes...

0:33:380:33:40

Look how fresh and bright this is!

0:33:400:33:43

..a fantastic green colour. There you go.

0:33:430:33:45

Now, there is really something special about this time of year.

0:33:450:33:51

From a chef's point of view, it's so exciting.

0:33:510:33:54

You have got all this stuff coming on board. You've got...

0:33:540:33:58

You're not having to buy stuff from abroad, are you?

0:33:580:34:00

You've got so many great ingredients in the UK.

0:34:000:34:03

And at this time, the first peas, the first broad beans.

0:34:030:34:06

From a chef's point of view, that is exciting for us, isn't it?

0:34:060:34:09

They're the first things to land on your doorstep, really.

0:34:090:34:12

You think spring's here, but nothing has really arrived yet.

0:34:120:34:15

When summer hits...

0:34:150:34:17

People talk a lot about the first strawberries and things like that.

0:34:170:34:20

But, for me, I kind of love

0:34:200:34:22

the whole broad beans sort of thing.

0:34:220:34:25

OK, quite interesting little potatoes here. A little technique.

0:34:250:34:29

These are Jersey Royals.

0:34:290:34:30

Not got long left in the season of Jersey Royals.

0:34:300:34:33

This is a little bit cheffy.

0:34:330:34:35

I just gently crush them, so that they keep their shape.

0:34:350:34:37

What this does, it allows the butter to go into the potato

0:34:370:34:42

and kind of flavour it without turning it into...

0:34:420:34:45

Remember the first time, I think in the mid-'90s,

0:34:450:34:47

when someone put crushed potatoes on their menu?

0:34:470:34:50

Remember those? I couldn't believe it!

0:34:500:34:52

My potatoes look like that, cos I always cook them

0:34:520:34:54

for too long cos I'm drinking too much wine.

0:34:540:34:56

-There you go! You become too cheffy!

-Like, "Oh, gah!"

0:34:560:34:59

We're making up this lovely, simple herb butter.

0:35:010:35:03

Let's not put too much.

0:35:030:35:05

You didn't cook that bacon, then?

0:35:050:35:08

No, no. It's going to be cooked now.

0:35:080:35:10

Because what I'm going to do here, this is a little sort of...

0:35:100:35:15

It's something good to do at home. I think this works really well,

0:35:150:35:17

cos you can have this all prepped up and then you pop it

0:35:170:35:20

in the microwave for a couple of minutes.

0:35:200:35:23

-You're going to do that?

-Sure. There you go.

0:35:230:35:25

What we're saying to the young chefs at the restaurant -

0:35:250:35:28

taste, taste, taste, all the time.

0:35:280:35:30

As you're cooking, check your seasoning.

0:35:300:35:34

I'm such a great chef, that is so delicious!

0:35:340:35:37

LAUGHTER

0:35:370:35:39

Right, the herb butter's got tarragon,

0:35:390:35:41

a little bit of chervil, parsley, bit of chives in there.

0:35:410:35:45

This is basically a French dish.

0:35:450:35:48

No, no. It's a British dish,

0:35:480:35:50

but it's a French technique.

0:35:500:35:53

And this is what they call fines herbes, in France.

0:35:530:35:57

Arthur, you were trained like that originally.

0:35:570:36:01

It's lovely, it's still lovely, isn't it?

0:36:010:36:04

It's called parsley butter, where I come from!

0:36:040:36:07

Cooking lettuce, am I the only one...

0:36:070:36:09

Do you two think that's a bit weird?

0:36:090:36:12

Just a little bit.

0:36:120:36:14

I tell you, that would be lovely with a bit of goat's cheese on it.

0:36:140:36:18

It would be delicious! I'm serious!

0:36:180:36:21

I would go back to raw lettuce with some tomato, cucumbers.

0:36:210:36:24

There you go, that's your bacon. It's cooked.

0:36:240:36:28

So it just warms up, you get that beautiful scallion flavour in there.

0:36:280:36:32

I need a touch of salt.

0:36:320:36:33

I can't remember if I seasoned it.

0:36:330:36:35

And then we just put

0:36:350:36:36

three of those onto the plate.

0:36:360:36:38

It doesn't really matter, they're sort of crushed potatoes anyway.

0:36:380:36:41

-On it goes.

-It is the essence of summer.

0:36:430:36:47

Look at this chop. Look at that.

0:36:470:36:50

I'd almost say it's manly food, but it's not.

0:36:520:36:55

It's just really beautifully, delicious food.

0:36:550:36:57

I will clear up after you.

0:36:570:36:59

And a little bit of the pan juices.

0:36:590:37:01

And finally, you've got a bit of butter on the top?

0:37:030:37:05

A little bit of butter, and you're doing just the right thing.

0:37:050:37:08

BLOWTORCH FIRES UP

0:37:080:37:11

Just take a little bit off.

0:37:110:37:13

Get that melted on the top.

0:37:130:37:15

So, while that's melting, remind us what that is again?

0:37:150:37:18

That's my rose veal chop

0:37:180:37:21

with lemon and herb butter,

0:37:210:37:23

braised summer vegetables and crushed potatoes.

0:37:230:37:25

Looks delicious.

0:37:250:37:27

It really is the essence of British cooking, that. Over here.

0:37:320:37:37

Dive in. Now, are you a big fan of veal, or what?

0:37:370:37:39

Well...sort of.

0:37:390:37:41

You sit on the fence, that sort of stuff?

0:37:410:37:44

I've never been completely convinced...

0:37:440:37:47

There's some amazing suppliers producing veal now in the UK.

0:37:470:37:50

This is quite an exciting time, I think.

0:37:500:37:55

This is a very good product.

0:37:550:37:56

Texturally, it is lighter than beef and a little bit more tender.

0:37:560:37:59

And it's also got lower fat, as well, because it is not as old.

0:37:590:38:02

-You've just taken a big chunk of fat there.

-I know. I've just realised.

0:38:020:38:06

Dive into this bit.

0:38:060:38:07

I've been waiting to taste it all morning.

0:38:070:38:09

To me, it's something that you just want to eat.

0:38:090:38:13

This is a hungry man's kind of dish.

0:38:130:38:15

-Or a hungry girl's kind of dish.

-Mm!

0:38:150:38:18

-It's delicious, isn't it?

-Oh, that is delicious!

0:38:180:38:20

It's something we should be eating a lot more of.

0:38:200:38:22

So, if you know anybody that wants

0:38:260:38:28

a baby son, send them a broad bean, apparently.

0:38:280:38:31

Now, it's time for a trip down memory lane,

0:38:310:38:33

with the one and only Keith Floyd.

0:38:330:38:35

Today, he starts off singing the praises

0:38:350:38:37

of a famous market in Brittany.

0:38:370:38:40

It's OK if you like haddock, plaice

0:38:400:38:42

and unidentified frying objects,

0:38:420:38:44

but if you really want to taste

0:38:440:38:46

the full variety fish landed in the Southwest,

0:38:460:38:48

you need to come to France.

0:38:480:38:50

Saint-Malo, for example.

0:38:500:38:52

Quel dommage, ain't it?

0:38:520:38:54

Good morning. It's a very, very early morning,

0:38:560:38:58

but the sun's shining and we've finally made it to Saint-Malo.

0:38:580:39:01

Excuse me if I'm looking a bit rough,

0:39:010:39:03

but the crossing was, you know, a bit heavy.

0:39:030:39:05

Anyway, look at this fabulous fish market we've found!

0:39:050:39:08

It's quite incredible!

0:39:080:39:09

I'm afraid it leaves English fish markets

0:39:090:39:12

looking very sad, by comparison.

0:39:120:39:13

Look, mountains of beautiful black mussels -

0:39:130:39:16

like pearls, they are.

0:39:160:39:18

And the cockles, aren't they delightful?

0:39:180:39:21

Do we ever see cockles in England?

0:39:210:39:23

Never, never, never, except in vinegar in jam jars.

0:39:230:39:26

And fresh prawns, and shrimps, little brown beauties. Look at them.

0:39:260:39:30

Pilchards, indeed.

0:39:300:39:32

We can't be bothered to eat them in Cornwall

0:39:320:39:34

where they catch them by the tonne.

0:39:340:39:35

Here they are in Saint-Malo in France, of course.

0:39:350:39:38

Other white fish is here.

0:39:380:39:40

Really superb little sardines, absolutely magnificent

0:39:400:39:43

for charcoal grilling, summer evenings and stuff like that.

0:39:430:39:46

This is just over the top, isn't it? It's wonderful!

0:39:460:39:48

Dogfish. Cooked with little sort of pink tomato sauce,

0:39:480:39:52

absolutely magnificent.

0:39:520:39:54

And skate, ray, cooked with black butter and capers and vinegar.

0:39:540:39:57

Absolutely magnificent.

0:39:570:39:59

Cod, all with which we can do is dip into batter and deep-fry.

0:39:590:40:02

More mussels.

0:40:020:40:04

What else is there? There's everything here! Oh, look...

0:40:040:40:07

# Hold tight, hold tight

0:40:070:40:09

FLOYD JOINS IN: # Hold tight, hold tight

0:40:090:40:11

# Ooh I could like some seafood, Mama

0:40:110:40:15

# Shrimpers and bites

0:40:150:40:16

# They're very nice

0:40:160:40:18

# Hold tight, hold tight

0:40:180:40:21

# Hold tight, hold tight

0:40:210:40:22

# ..Want some seafood, Mama

0:40:220:40:25

# Steamers and sauce

0:40:250:40:27

# And then, of course

0:40:270:40:29

# I like oysters, lobsters too

0:40:290:40:32

# Like a taste of fish

0:40:320:40:35

# When I come home from work at night

0:40:350:40:37

# I get my favourite dish

0:40:370:40:39

# Fish!

0:40:390:40:40

# Hold tight, hold tight

0:40:400:40:42

# Hold tight, hold tight

0:40:420:40:44

# Want some seafood, Mama... #

0:40:440:40:48

And look at this, this is quite incredible.

0:40:480:40:51

Fresh shrimps, absolutely live.

0:40:510:40:53

Whenever did you see those? What a treat.

0:40:530:40:55

And live langoustines, right next door. They'll eat everything!

0:40:550:40:58

Look, those things are selling so fast,

0:40:580:41:00

there won't be any left by the time we finish filming them.

0:41:000:41:03

And even the humble winkle.

0:41:030:41:05

Fantastic! It's fantastic!

0:41:050:41:07

# ..Fish, fish, fish, fish

0:41:070:41:10

# Fish, fish, fish, fish, fish

0:41:100:41:13

# Fish, fish, fish, fish, fish

0:41:130:41:15

# Fish, fish... #

0:41:150:41:17

Look! What a plate of luxury! What a table of extravagance!

0:41:170:41:21

This is remarkable!

0:41:210:41:22

These are the things I told you about in England, that we

0:41:220:41:25

send them all to France. And here they are.

0:41:250:41:28

You don't buy them, the French know what to do.

0:41:280:41:30

Look! It's fantastic. Live lobsters.

0:41:300:41:33

Nice lady here, just an ordinary lady, buying a lobster for lunch.

0:41:330:41:37

Pardon, Madame!

0:41:370:41:40

And look at these, these beautiful little crabs for making fish soup.

0:41:400:41:43

Absolutely incredible!

0:41:430:41:45

I tell you one thing that really saddens me here -

0:41:480:41:52

this is a fabulous cathedral for fish, but all of these lobsters,

0:41:520:41:55

all of the spider crabs and all of the crabs that are here,

0:41:550:41:59

all come from England, from Devon and Somerset and Cornwall coasts.

0:41:590:42:02

That's what our fishermen are doing. We're not eating it, the French are.

0:42:020:42:06

But well done the British fishermen for providing it anyway.

0:42:060:42:09

But, in fact, with all this terrific food around the place,

0:42:090:42:12

if I don't get myself a kitchen and start doing some real cooking soon,

0:42:120:42:15

I'll just go potty!

0:42:150:42:17

One of the charms of France is the market

0:42:200:42:22

and, despite the inexorable advances of the hypermarche,

0:42:220:42:26

street trading is still where it's at.

0:42:260:42:28

Shopping in France is not a once a week,

0:42:280:42:30

one store, one-hit exercise, like in England.

0:42:300:42:33

They shop daily for freshness and choice,

0:42:330:42:36

touching, smelling, testing the produce before they plan a menu.

0:42:360:42:39

What a wondrous place!

0:42:390:42:41

Home-made sausages, fresh vegetables,

0:42:410:42:43

a side of beef, a fish head, or just a bone for stock.

0:42:430:42:46

It's all available here.

0:42:460:42:48

It's also a great social occasion

0:42:480:42:50

and the nearby bars are filled with folk

0:42:500:42:52

discussing tonight's dinner,

0:42:520:42:53

and not the price of loo rolls or special offer coffee.

0:42:530:42:56

'Anyway, back to business.

0:42:580:43:00

'I've done the shopping, bought langoustines, mussels,

0:43:000:43:03

'clams and things and, of course, spent too much money. But so what?

0:43:030:43:06

'All I have to do now is procure a kitchen, because, of course,

0:43:060:43:09

'the great BBC forgot to organise

0:43:090:43:11

'when they planned this little mini break.

0:43:110:43:13

'Anyway, I'll try a bit of British charm and see how we get on.'

0:43:130:43:16

Six heures?

0:43:160:43:18

Six heures, c'est puit. OK.

0:43:180:43:20

SPEAKS IN FRENCH

0:43:200:43:21

OK. C'est bon. Entendue.

0:43:210:43:23

Merci beaucoup. Merci.

0:43:230:43:26

So, you're still with me.

0:43:310:43:33

If shopping around the place wasn't enough.

0:43:330:43:35

But, actually, you can't do much with me now, because I've borrowed this

0:43:350:43:38

superb kitchen and, at six o'clock, the chef is coming in and I'll

0:43:380:43:42

prepare a meal for him of mussels and langoustines and stuff.

0:43:420:43:45

But, so that you can see that properly on film in a moment

0:43:450:43:48

or two, I have some basic homework to get going with.

0:43:480:43:52

So, do excuse me.

0:43:520:43:53

I've got to do my little bits of preparation.

0:43:530:43:56

And get a few things happening.

0:43:590:44:03

If you want to watch, you're very welcome.

0:44:030:44:06

But I can't spend too much time with you

0:44:060:44:08

at this precise moment.

0:44:080:44:10

But what I can say is

0:44:100:44:12

it's an absolute thrill to be let loose

0:44:120:44:15

without any questions or complaints

0:44:150:44:18

in one of these fabulous French kitchens.

0:44:180:44:20

I do have work to do.

0:44:220:44:24

Now, Jacques Yves, I wonder if you could...

0:44:240:44:26

THEY SPEAK IN FRENCH

0:44:260:44:29

'It's really good fun, this television lark.

0:44:350:44:37

'Look, I'm talking to you, and yet I'm talking about something

0:44:370:44:40

'completely different at the same time.

0:44:400:44:42

'Anyway, I'm just making a rather standard white sauce

0:44:420:44:45

'with butter, flour and milk.

0:44:450:44:47

'You know, something you've all done before.

0:44:470:44:49

'So, why don't you go off and work up an appetite?'

0:44:490:44:51

RELAXED MUSIC

0:44:510:44:54

The sun is shining, the good life goes on apace.

0:45:140:45:18

Gently working up an appetite, these boules players will soon drift

0:45:180:45:21

off to eat, after they've argued the subtleties of the last game.

0:45:210:45:24

Life, like lobsters in France, is on the street.

0:45:240:45:28

But at noon, everything stops for food

0:45:280:45:30

and restaurants will fill with dustbin men and grand dames,

0:45:300:45:33

who will munch with enthusiasm plates of crab, scallops, clams and sole.

0:45:330:45:39

And clean their plates with bread and suck again on a claw.

0:45:390:45:43

Culinary sisters of mercy in the kitchens

0:45:480:45:50

create stunning tastes for you.

0:45:500:45:53

You see, lunch is so important in France.

0:45:540:45:58

It is the highlight of the day.

0:45:580:46:00

Unlike the English, where we rush to the pub

0:46:000:46:03

for a pint and a pie, they sip and philosophise

0:46:030:46:06

in splendour and encourage cooks to create even greater marvels.

0:46:060:46:10

Well, I hope you enjoyed your little walk around the town.

0:46:130:46:16

While you've been out playing, I've been really very busy.

0:46:160:46:19

I am now able to tell you what we're going to cook.

0:46:190:46:21

But, one of the secrets of French cooking

0:46:210:46:24

is that menus are planned after the shopping.

0:46:240:46:27

You don't plan a menu and then go shopping,

0:46:270:46:30

because you might not find the ingredients you want and you

0:46:300:46:32

are forced to make a compromise, which results in a bad dish.

0:46:320:46:35

So, if you're drifting past, like I was this morning, and you saw good

0:46:350:46:39

mussels or good langoustines, you buy them, then you plan a menu.

0:46:390:46:43

So, today's menu, the one we've planned,

0:46:430:46:46

is to use these langoustines.

0:46:460:46:48

And I'm going to cook them

0:46:480:46:50

in a piquant tomato sauce.

0:46:500:46:52

Now, the tomato sauce which is going to go with them

0:46:520:46:55

is a fairly complicated thing.

0:46:550:46:57

You need to use a liquidiser

0:46:570:46:59

and you need to use sugar

0:46:590:47:00

and chopped shallots and stuff like that.

0:47:000:47:02

It's a detailed recipe that you can get from any cookery book or

0:47:020:47:05

particularly mine, Floyd on Fish, when it comes out fairly soon.

0:47:050:47:08

And I've cheated a bit, because I got Jacques Yves' chef

0:47:080:47:11

to already make my tomato sauce for me.

0:47:110:47:14

Clive, this is quite important.

0:47:140:47:15

If you can come in close to see, that's a very smooth,

0:47:150:47:17

freshly-made tomato sauce.

0:47:170:47:19

Just make that, use a cookery book, use a recipe book.

0:47:190:47:22

Have some of that ready. OK.

0:47:220:47:24

Our other ingredients... Clive, this is a bit tricky,

0:47:240:47:26

you've got to wander round a bit.

0:47:260:47:28

..are going to be some finely chopped shallots...

0:47:280:47:31

..and some finely chopped parsley.

0:47:330:47:36

Jacques Yves's been very busy doing me some garlic, which he

0:47:370:47:42

has taken the little coarse bit out of the middle.

0:47:420:47:44

And we shall chop that up, not too finely,

0:47:440:47:47

really just to crush it to get the flavour from it.

0:47:470:47:50

OK? We need equally some olive oil,

0:47:500:47:54

doesn't matter what mark.

0:47:540:47:56

But it must be olive oil, incidentally.

0:47:560:47:58

Corn oil will spoil this dish.

0:47:580:48:00

And a little bit of hot pepper sauce or something to really

0:48:000:48:03

gee up the flavour of it.

0:48:030:48:04

OK, you've got all the ingredients.

0:48:040:48:06

I've had a lovely morning so far shopping.

0:48:060:48:09

I am desperate to get on with some cooking. So, if you can...

0:48:090:48:11

You know, if you need to take a break, Clive, for a second,

0:48:110:48:14

I'm going to the stove, follow me if you can,

0:48:140:48:16

and I'll start cooking this wonderful dish.

0:48:160:48:18

Which is, first of all, into a large saute pan,

0:48:180:48:21

a good dollop of olive oil.

0:48:210:48:26

Then we're going to chuck in our little shallots.

0:48:260:48:29

Note, as usual and as always,

0:48:290:48:32

I have the pan hot already.

0:48:320:48:34

Always start with a hot pan,

0:48:340:48:35

otherwise things will boil and not fry.

0:48:350:48:37

And we want these to fry.

0:48:370:48:39

In go the langoustines.

0:48:390:48:41

Like that.

0:48:440:48:45

Sorry to cut across you.

0:48:450:48:47

Little mix of salt and pepper.

0:48:470:48:50

You know, there's a point of honour at stake here,

0:48:500:48:52

because I have got to cook supper for these rather brilliant chefs,

0:48:520:48:56

and I want this to be the best langoustine I've ever made.

0:48:560:48:58

And I am going to jolly well ensure that it is.

0:48:580:49:01

Then, next, be a bit extravagant.

0:49:030:49:05

If I can find it.

0:49:050:49:07

Flambe au Cognac!

0:49:120:49:14

That really gives it the je ne sais quoi.

0:49:140:49:16

It's so essential to make these superb dishes.

0:49:160:49:20

Let that reduce a little. OK?

0:49:200:49:23

And then - take care not to burn yourself -

0:49:230:49:27

in with the tomato sauce.

0:49:270:49:30

We've got this unctuous, beautiful pink sauce

0:49:300:49:33

bubbling away there.

0:49:330:49:34

Let's just taste it.

0:49:360:49:38

Always taste things.

0:49:380:49:40

It's coming on extremely well so far. A bit of parsley in.

0:49:400:49:43

And look how the colour is.

0:49:430:49:44

I know we always mention colour on Floyd on Fish,

0:49:440:49:47

but the colour is the essence of it.

0:49:470:49:49

If it looks good, it's probably going to taste good.

0:49:490:49:52

Now, just a few dashes of Tabasco.

0:49:520:49:55

I'm using Tabasco, you could use

0:49:550:49:57

any kind of piquancy that you fancy.

0:49:570:50:00

And you stir those round.

0:50:000:50:02

Very important thing with langoustines,

0:50:020:50:04

cos we are cooking for gastronomes, today.

0:50:040:50:06

Not gastronauts, you're the gastronauts.

0:50:060:50:09

You know, the mythical, unidentified frying object people.

0:50:090:50:12

These are the real ones. So I am undercooking these langoustines.

0:50:120:50:15

They're going to be slightly undercooked and delicious, OK?

0:50:150:50:19

We'll pull them off the stove now and eat them in a minute.

0:50:190:50:22

Real French ale, extraordinary, isn't it? And, by God, I need it.

0:50:260:50:29

Do you know, Jacques Yves peering over my shoulder

0:50:290:50:31

has made me really nervous.

0:50:310:50:33

So I've sent him off to lay the table, actually.

0:50:330:50:35

But I've got to press on.

0:50:350:50:37

I've got 15 minutes left to get this mussel dish on the road,

0:50:370:50:39

which he's going to judge, presumably equally

0:50:390:50:42

as harshly as he's been looking at my langoustines.

0:50:420:50:44

If I can just recap on what we were doing.

0:50:440:50:46

When I was in the market this morning,

0:50:460:50:48

I couldn't resist this beautiful, fresh spinach.

0:50:480:50:50

Stay where you are, Clive, I'll bring it over to you.

0:50:500:50:52

And look how tender and young it is compared

0:50:520:50:54

to the stuff we get in England.

0:50:540:50:56

No big, thick stalks, no brown edges.

0:50:560:50:58

Couldn't resist it.

0:50:580:50:59

I know it makes a superb gratin dish.

0:50:590:51:01

Mussels widely available, couldn't help buying those.

0:51:010:51:04

And you saw me earlier,

0:51:040:51:05

I just cooked them off, took them out of their shells.

0:51:050:51:07

I got Jacques Yves to do that.

0:51:070:51:08

About the only thing he's done today, except make me nervous.

0:51:080:51:11

So they're already just lightly steamed

0:51:110:51:13

and taken out of their shells.

0:51:130:51:15

Then, the treat.

0:51:150:51:17

The really good treat about being here in France

0:51:170:51:19

was these little clams,

0:51:190:51:20

which cost no money so I bought a couple of dozen of those.

0:51:200:51:23

BANGING I steamed those...

0:51:230:51:25

Something breaking up over there. Can I have an assistant?

0:51:250:51:28

Producer, do something sensible, take that off - it's going to break.

0:51:280:51:31

And I couldn't resist buying these clams.

0:51:310:51:34

Steamed them open on an open tray on top of a hot oven.

0:51:340:51:39

So I've got those, which I am very pleased about.

0:51:390:51:41

And then, also earlier on this morning,

0:51:410:51:43

you saw me make my bechamel.

0:51:430:51:45

Well, everyone knows how to make a white sauce. That's what it is.

0:51:450:51:49

Butter and flour and milk.

0:51:490:51:51

Except, I am going to make it even richer in a moment by adding

0:51:510:51:54

some egg yolk and some double cream.

0:51:540:51:57

I cooked my spinach in the normal way,

0:51:570:51:59

which I'll bring over to you, Clive.

0:51:590:52:01

A bit hot and difficult in here, isn't it?

0:52:010:52:03

That has been cooked right down, with no liquid at all.

0:52:030:52:06

So now, if you come with me, I'll whack this in the oven

0:52:060:52:09

and give it the gun, because I want to get back to

0:52:090:52:12

being Floyd on Fish and not frightened of these Frenchmen!

0:52:120:52:15

So come with me. Come in, come in. We haven't got a lot of time.

0:52:150:52:18

Hold on that. We've got the producer working. This is absolutely amazing!

0:52:180:52:21

I hope it hasn't burnt your fingers, darling. Has it burnt your fingers?

0:52:210:52:25

He's actually in pain, holding a very hot dish.

0:52:250:52:28

Clive, can you come in close?

0:52:280:52:30

Clams... Don't worry about me at all.

0:52:300:52:32

Just watch the processes here.

0:52:320:52:34

The clams, the mussels, the spinach.

0:52:340:52:37

A little bit of the bechamel.

0:52:370:52:39

OK. Then that's on a fairly hot heat. We stir that in.

0:52:390:52:43

It looks a bit strange at the moment, green and going cream.

0:52:430:52:47

Now, stay where you are, because double cream into that

0:52:470:52:51

to make it really extravagantly rich.

0:52:510:52:56

Then, the coup de grace,

0:52:560:52:58

as we could say, is some egg yolk stirred in.

0:52:580:53:01

Now, if I can have my producer back with a dish.

0:53:010:53:04

Stay with it, Clive. Don't leave us now.

0:53:040:53:07

We've only got ten minutes before the real chef comes in.

0:53:070:53:10

And the pudding is going to hit the fan, as they say.

0:53:120:53:15

I think that's how they say, the pudding is going to hit the fan.

0:53:150:53:18

Tip this into a nice, ovenproof dish.

0:53:180:53:20

Doesn't that looked delicious?

0:53:200:53:22

Stir it around, so the clams and mussels

0:53:220:53:25

and the sauce are all equally distributed.

0:53:250:53:28

In fact, I haven't got it too equally distributed there,

0:53:280:53:31

so I'll just stir it around a little bit.

0:53:310:53:33

And then I've got what we call fromage rape,

0:53:330:53:35

grated Gruyere, this is.

0:53:350:53:37

But you could use Cheddar, as long as it was very fine.

0:53:370:53:40

But try to stay with the authentic flavours, OK? That is the dish.

0:53:400:53:44

And now it has to go into the oven for about five or ten minutes.

0:53:440:53:47

A very hot oven, mark you.

0:53:470:53:48

Or under the grill for four or five minutes to brown slightly.

0:53:480:53:52

I will do that straightaway,

0:53:520:53:54

because time is pressing on.

0:53:540:53:56

Jacques Yves will be back in a moment. He has laid the table.

0:53:560:53:59

His assistant chef is coming, his wife is going to be there.

0:53:590:54:02

This is the first time, honestly, that I have

0:54:020:54:05

cooked in France for French chefs in the way I'm doing it now.

0:54:050:54:09

Is it going to be a winner or a loser? We'll see in a moment.

0:54:090:54:12

RELAXED MUSIC

0:54:120:54:16

You don't like spinach very much, do you?

0:54:220:54:24

-No, no.

-No!

0:54:240:54:26

-Is it the way that I've cooked it, you don't like it?

-No, no.

0:54:260:54:28

I didn't know it was spinach.

0:54:280:54:30

You just don't like it.

0:54:300:54:32

I cooked this, and she doesn't even like spinach!

0:54:320:54:34

You know, what am I going to do now? What do you think of it?

0:54:340:54:37

-Superb.

-You like it? Honestly?

0:54:370:54:39

Honestly. I'll have some more.

0:54:390:54:42

Et vous, monsieur le chef, comment vous trouvez ma cuisine?

0:54:420:54:45

C'est tres bon. Tres bon.

0:54:450:54:47

-Vraiment tres bon?

-Ah, oui.

0:54:470:54:48

Regarde le camera, s'il vous plait, et repete apres moi,

0:54:480:54:50

-"C'est vraiment tres bon."

-C'est vraiment tres bon.

0:54:500:54:53

And that, for you... I am sure you understand.

0:54:530:54:55

You all take the Sunday Times. He actually says it's very good!

0:54:550:54:57

So, I think I'm halfway there.

0:54:570:55:00

I have been so frightened in the kitchen there.

0:55:000:55:03

And now, he's telling us off because I'm getting over the top,

0:55:030:55:05

as usual, having lots of glasses of wine

0:55:050:55:07

and having a fine time. I don't care.

0:55:070:55:10

Let's have some langoustines. How do they feel?

0:55:100:55:12

Tell you what, if we could find someone useful to change the plates.

0:55:120:55:15

Madame doesn't like spinach anyway.

0:55:150:55:19

C'est pas la peine de le manger si tu n'aimes pas, hein?

0:55:190:55:21

Mais j'aimais avant que tu me dises que c'etait des epinards.

0:55:210:55:24

-C'est un surpris, quoi?

-Oui!

-C'est un surpris.

0:55:240:55:28

-J'ai fini.

-Non, non. Oui, j'ai fini. Bon. On est presse pour temps.

0:55:280:55:32

That's the trouble, you see?

0:55:320:55:34

Television won't even let you relax and enjoy yourselves.

0:55:340:55:38

And that is one of the big problems with the English in general.

0:55:380:55:41

They will rush food.

0:55:410:55:43

Whereas the French take hours over eating and having a lovely time.

0:55:430:55:46

Do you find, when the English people come here, that they rush?

0:55:460:55:49

-No, they just take their time.

-They're totally decontracte? Yeah.

0:55:490:55:52

-They're fine.

-Well, they're on holiday.

0:55:520:55:54

They're on holiday, so they have got everything to go for.

0:55:540:55:56

Bon, mais j'espere que tu preferes les langoustines aux epinards.

0:55:560:56:01

Sinon, je me suicide.

0:56:010:56:03

But look, when you've tasted these, tell me honestly,

0:56:030:56:06

what I really want to know...

0:56:060:56:08

Passe l'assiette, s'il te plait. Merci.

0:56:080:56:10

If any of you are taking French lessons from me,

0:56:100:56:12

unless you know the people very well, you mustn't tutoie them.

0:56:120:56:15

It's quite rude. You must call them vous and monsieur.

0:56:150:56:18

But we are friends here, so it's all right.

0:56:180:56:20

I want you to tell me honestly, would you,

0:56:200:56:23

if I turned up on your doorstep,

0:56:230:56:26

do you think you might give me a job?

0:56:260:56:28

Non, monsieur, c'est parfait.

0:56:280:56:31

C'est parfait, oui. Non, mais ecoute.

0:56:310:56:34

Would you give me a job?

0:56:340:56:35

I mean, I've tried really hard to cook for you this afternoon,

0:56:350:56:39

would you give me a job?

0:56:390:56:41

Even peeling the potatoes? Anything?

0:56:410:56:43

Any time you want.

0:56:430:56:45

-Really?

-You speak too much.

0:56:450:56:47

I speak too much!

0:56:470:56:48

-And you don't eat enough.

-But if you work enough, it will be all right.

0:56:480:56:52

You see? The hard patronne that is...

0:56:520:56:55

She should be dressed in black

0:56:550:56:57

and sit in one of those little glass cases.

0:56:570:56:59

What a great piece of classic Keith Floyd there.

0:57:040:57:06

As ever on Best Bites, we're looking back at some of the great

0:57:060:57:08

cooking from the Saturday Kitchen archives.

0:57:080:57:11

Still to come on today's Best Bites,

0:57:110:57:13

it was Daniel Clifford's first time at the Omelette Challenge hobs,

0:57:130:57:16

and he was about to do battle against Kenny Atkinson.

0:57:160:57:18

Daniel was also keen to beat Sat Bains' time,

0:57:180:57:21

but would he manage it?

0:57:210:57:22

Find out how they both get on a little later.

0:57:220:57:25

The very talented Marcus Wareing cooks halibut.

0:57:250:57:27

He braises the fish and serves it with watercress,

0:57:270:57:30

coddled quail's eggs and grilled baby leeks.

0:57:300:57:33

And Aggie MacKenzie faced her food heaven or food hell.

0:57:330:57:36

Would she get her food heaven - raspberries with my baked raspberry

0:57:360:57:39

cheesecake, made with raspberries from her very own garden?

0:57:390:57:42

Or would she get her dreaded food hell - cauliflower,

0:57:420:57:44

with my pork pie and piccalilli picnic?

0:57:440:57:47

Find out what she gets to eat at the end of today's show.

0:57:470:57:50

Now, it's time for a lesson in serving noodles. That's right.

0:57:500:57:53

It could only be the one and only Mr Ken Hom.

0:57:530:57:55

-Great to have you on the show.

-You're feisty today.

0:57:550:57:58

I am, I'm on a roll, I'm on a roll.

0:57:580:58:00

What are we cooking?

0:58:000:58:02

I'm going to make you work at the pineapple,

0:58:020:58:04

cos I've got to put you to work.

0:58:040:58:07

-This is pork and pineapple?

-This is lean pork fillet.

0:58:070:58:10

You know, a lot of people, when they eat pork,

0:58:100:58:12

they're worried about fat. This is really...

0:58:120:58:15

You're speaking to the wrong bloke, Ken!

0:58:150:58:18

I trim off the meat and eat the fat.

0:58:180:58:21

But this is really healthy.

0:58:210:58:23

This is perfect for him.

0:58:230:58:25

Perfect for you.

0:58:250:58:27

Except, there's a bit of a garlic in this.

0:58:270:58:29

Simply because, otherwise,

0:58:290:58:32

we won't have that oomph, you know?

0:58:320:58:33

But it's kind of a background flavour, isn't it, really?

0:58:330:58:36

I could never live without garlic.

0:58:360:58:38

I have always grown up with that.

0:58:380:58:39

So, we've got our pork. This is the pork fillet.

0:58:390:58:42

Can I give you that?

0:58:420:58:43

And what I'm going to do is just marinate that in some soy sauce.

0:58:430:58:47

Now, particularly, what soy sauce are using?

0:58:470:58:49

This is where most people have a problem.

0:58:490:58:51

When they go to a Chinese restaurant, it is

0:58:510:58:53

-not the same as cooking at home.

-I know.

0:58:530:58:55

But just soy sauce that you can find in any supermarket.

0:58:550:58:58

The dark or the light?

0:58:580:59:00

Well, you know, just plain soy sauce.

0:59:000:59:03

Usually it's just one sort.

0:59:030:59:06

And this is sesame oil.

0:59:060:59:08

We just mix that together, like that.

0:59:080:59:10

You can add a little bit of salt and pepper, if you want.

0:59:100:59:12

-Now, soy sauce is quite salty, as well.

-Exactly.

0:59:120:59:15

But what you want to do is,

0:59:150:59:17

if you're worried about salt,

0:59:170:59:19

there's now sort of low sodium.

0:59:190:59:22

You mix that together.

0:59:230:59:25

You see that? And what we are going to do, while that is cooking...

0:59:250:59:29

Now, you've got cornflour in. Why is the cornflour going in?

0:59:290:59:32

Well, that keeps the marinade on the meat.

0:59:320:59:34

OK, I am going to add our noodles there.

0:59:340:59:37

Egg noodles? Salted water or plain water?

0:59:370:59:40

Just plain water.

0:59:400:59:41

And what you do is just mix that and put that aside.

0:59:410:59:44

Now, this is his hell,

0:59:440:59:46

which is this garlic.

0:59:460:59:48

You need lots of it.

0:59:480:59:50

And, you know, it goes wonderful with pineapple.

0:59:500:59:53

It really is good.

0:59:530:59:55

And one of the best ways to actually chop it

0:59:550:59:57

is to just crush it like that.

0:59:570:59:59

What is it about Chinese food and fruit and meat and bits and pieces?

0:59:591:00:04

-Is it something that breaks down the meat?

-It's a nice contrast to meat

1:00:041:00:08

cos that's really light. I mean, that's really healthy.

1:00:081:00:11

A lot of people are so concerned about, sort of, eating well

1:00:111:00:14

-and this is probably one of the best ways to combine with meat.

-Yeah.

1:00:141:00:19

And you get your fruit at the same time.

1:00:191:00:21

Now, we want to heat up our wok until it's very hot,

1:00:211:00:25

-and that's also very crucial.

-Now, a masterclass on wok cooking.

-Yes.

1:00:251:00:28

One of the first ingredients that people put in is a big no-no,

1:00:281:00:31

which is this stuff - they put sesame oil in.

1:00:311:00:33

Not the sesame oil but just regular, any type of vegetable oil.

1:00:331:00:37

Make sure it's hot before you actually add the oil.

1:00:371:00:40

It could be groundnut oil, something like that?

1:00:401:00:42

Yes, groundnut oil, sort of sunflower oil is fine.

1:00:421:00:45

And you see how it's smoking like that?

1:00:451:00:47

You know, you don't need to call...

1:00:471:00:50

-Get it nice and hot.

-..our policeman over there!

1:00:501:00:53

-Get it nice and hot.

-Yeah, get it nice and hot like that.

1:00:531:00:57

And what you do is... You see how that's sizzling?

1:00:571:01:00

That's what you should hear.

1:01:001:01:01

If you don't hear that, that means your wok is not hot enough and

1:01:011:01:04

the meat will start steaming instead of being sort of grilled like that.

1:01:041:01:08

And what I like to do is, I like to also drain it

1:01:081:01:12

all off as soon as it's done.

1:01:121:01:13

-Cos it shouldn't be oily, should it?

-No, it shouldn't be oily.

1:01:131:01:16

But you need oil to give it a good head start.

1:01:161:01:21

Now, if you could chop up some spring onions for me, young man.

1:01:211:01:24

So what is Ken Hom up to at the moment,

1:01:241:01:26

cos January next year's quite interesting for you -

1:01:261:01:29

relaunching your cookbook, 25 years in the industry?

1:01:291:01:31

Yes, this is how long I've been around. Too long!

1:01:311:01:35

-You weren't even born yet!

-Trust me, I was.

1:01:351:01:37

-You weren't even born yet!

-I was! I was!

1:01:371:01:40

He wasn't even born yet!

1:01:401:01:41

But you're lecturing across the country as well, are you?

1:01:421:01:45

No, I'm at Oxford Brookes University, Oxford Gastronomica.

1:01:451:01:50

We're doing a series of public lectures, and this Monday,

1:01:501:01:55

we're going to have the former Governor of Hong Kong,

1:01:551:01:59

Lord Chris Patten,

1:01:591:02:00

deliver the first lectures on food and how it's affecting our lives.

1:02:001:02:06

These things are really, sort of, important issues.

1:02:061:02:08

Now, you see pork like this that is lean.

1:02:081:02:11

-What you want to do is not to overcook it.

-Yup.

1:02:111:02:13

People tend to overcook things.

1:02:131:02:16

Now we're going to just drain that off and let that sit.

1:02:161:02:18

-Right, we've got the garlic.

-Yes, we've got the garlic in there.

1:02:181:02:22

And that's what'll give it taste

1:02:221:02:23

and if you could actually put the pineapple in there,

1:02:231:02:26

that would be wonderful. Yes.

1:02:261:02:28

And you can chop up the coriander, if you don't mind doing that? Yes, chef.

1:02:281:02:32

Thank you very much.

1:02:321:02:33

But restaurants are still an important part of your life.

1:02:331:02:36

-You still do a lot of consulting?

-Oh, yes. I'm actually working

1:02:361:02:38

on a project in Thailand in a restaurant,

1:02:381:02:41

and that's fun because the ingredients you use in Thailand

1:02:411:02:45

are just so absolutely wonderful.

1:02:451:02:47

And everything... Like, this kind of dish would really go well in Thailand

1:02:471:02:51

because of all these exotic fruit. You can use mango, for instance.

1:02:511:02:55

I'm just going to add some soy sauce to that.

1:02:551:02:57

I can't have you on without mentioning the Olympics.

1:02:571:02:59

And a bit of sugar. Yes!

1:02:591:03:01

-Were you watching it?

-I was a devoted... Glued to the telly.

1:03:011:03:06

And the launch and up to the very, very finish.

1:03:061:03:10

I was very, very proud to see...

1:03:101:03:13

-Because amazing buildings they built as well.

-Ah! It's incredible.

1:03:131:03:16

And I had seen it when I did some filming in March and, I tell you,

1:03:161:03:21

it is so staggering what's happening in China now that it's mind-boggling.

1:03:211:03:26

And...

1:03:261:03:28

You know, the athletic...

1:03:281:03:31

..events were just amazing.

1:03:331:03:36

-Do you think we'll do the same in the UK?

-I hope so.

1:03:361:03:40

-"Hope so".

-That's controversial!

1:03:401:03:42

-This is where you put the sesame oil in it.

-Just a bit of sesame oil.

1:03:421:03:45

And you notice I'm not even cooking it.

1:03:451:03:48

-Just sort of mixing that.

-Put your onions in. There you go.

1:03:481:03:50

Yeah, mix that with your onions. Just put that on the side.

1:03:501:03:53

He's watching now. You can do this. You can attempt this one.

1:03:531:03:57

He's just thinking, "I haven't got a pan in my kitchen."

1:03:571:04:01

-We've finished that...

-He's got no kitchen!

1:04:011:04:03

Which kitchen(?)

1:04:031:04:05

I have to give him more.

1:04:051:04:06

I tell you, if I gave him a wok, afterwards he'll start.

1:04:061:04:10

-Yeah, I'm sure he will. We've got coriander in here.

-Yes.

1:04:101:04:14

See this kind of... A dish like this,

1:04:141:04:17

it's not only tasty but it's very healthy.

1:04:171:04:19

That's perfect for the things that you're interested in eating.

1:04:191:04:23

But, like you say, the secret with pork is really don't overcook it.

1:04:231:04:26

Don't overcook it. It's a bit like rabbit.

1:04:261:04:28

If you overcook it, it'll be very dry.

1:04:281:04:31

Look at it. That just took minutes.

1:04:311:04:33

You've got a bit of sugar there. Do you want a bit of sugar?

1:04:331:04:35

Yes, I added a little bit of that to the pork and pineapple

1:04:351:04:39

because that gives it a nice, sweet, wonderful taste.

1:04:391:04:42

You can use mango, and, in fact, you know,

1:04:421:04:44

what's very good with this is papaya.

1:04:441:04:46

Now, I know you're a big fan of mixing fruits

1:04:461:04:48

-and particularly meats, as well, together.

-Yes.

-This combination,

1:04:481:04:51

-pineapple, what would you have put it with?

-I love it. I love it.

1:04:511:04:54

I was just going to ask Ken, apart from pineapple and mango,

1:04:541:04:57

is there any other fruit you would recommend?

1:04:571:05:00

I've tried papaya and one time I did something like this

1:05:001:05:03

with orange and apples.

1:05:031:05:06

-Apples? Apples would be great.

-And, you know, it's funny,

1:05:061:05:10

when you cook fruit, it brings out even more flavour. Do you know that?

1:05:101:05:14

-Yeah. It's delicious. I'll put a few more of these...

-Yes.

1:05:141:05:17

..spring onions on for you. Now you can pop the pork on.

1:05:171:05:20

Thank you. OK, look at that. This is just something...

1:05:201:05:23

How's that? A meal... Well, that's a starter in Yorkshire

1:05:231:05:27

but it's a meal for six down here, isn't it!

1:05:271:05:29

No, it's a village in China!

1:05:291:05:32

That's what we call a canape where I come from.

1:05:341:05:36

So, remind us what that is again.

1:05:361:05:38

Yes, that's pork, pineapple, stir-fried pork with pineapple,

1:05:381:05:41

and that's simple with some coriander.

1:05:411:05:44

Done in seven minutes. Easy as that.

1:05:441:05:46

It smells incredible, I have to say.

1:05:511:05:54

Come on over here, Ken. There you go. Dive in.

1:05:541:05:57

No doubt the size of this fella, he'll eat the whole entire lot.

1:05:571:06:00

-Are you a fan of stir-fries?

-That's a portion for him, I think.

1:06:001:06:03

Stir-fries, yes, cos they are so quick.

1:06:031:06:05

But it's going out to eat rather than attempt it yourself?

1:06:051:06:08

It doesn't have to be a fancy restaurant.

1:06:081:06:10

-It's something you could attempt.

-You know what? If you like it hot,

1:06:101:06:12

you can add some chilli bean sauce to that and...

1:06:121:06:15

-Chilli and pineapple go...

-Oh, fantastic!

1:06:151:06:17

What about some chilli flakes? Could you add chilli flakes?

1:06:171:06:20

-Yes, you could add chilli flakes.

-That is really nice, actually.

1:06:201:06:23

Could you taste the garlic in there or not?

1:06:231:06:25

-I know you skip round the garlic bit.

-Yeah, I did.

1:06:251:06:27

I saw a few escapees lurking in there.

1:06:271:06:29

But it's just there as a background taste.

1:06:291:06:31

Yes, and you know garlic is so good for your health.

1:06:311:06:34

I suppose it would work well with beef.

1:06:341:06:37

It would work well with beef and chicken...

1:06:371:06:39

Absolutely. How can you live without it?

1:06:391:06:41

-And the pineapple I like.

-Just going to try it, chef.

1:06:411:06:43

-Mm.

-See, he would probably like it spicier.

1:06:441:06:47

I would definitely like some chilli but it's fabulous. Fabulous.

1:06:471:06:51

Rav Wilding there. Probably the only person in the world

1:06:561:06:59

who doesn't actually own a wok.

1:06:591:07:01

I get the feeling, from watching the following clip, that Daniel Clifford

1:07:011:07:04

was a little nervous about taking part in the Omelette Challenge

1:07:041:07:07

for the very first time but would he beat Kenny Atkinson's previous time?

1:07:071:07:11

And would he beat his best mate Sat Bains? Take a look at this.

1:07:111:07:14

Daniel, it's your first time at this.

1:07:141:07:16

Who would you like to beat on our board? Pick a chef.

1:07:161:07:19

-There's some big names there, aren't there?

-Yep.

-Well, Mr Bains.

1:07:191:07:22

-I'd like to beat Mr Bains.

-Mr Sat Bains there,

1:07:221:07:25

sat in the middle. There you go. Looks good to me. Kenny?

1:07:251:07:28

I...I just want to get on the board again!

1:07:281:07:31

Right up there. 34.76 seconds. Usual rules apply.

1:07:311:07:34

Let's put the clocks on the screens, please.

1:07:341:07:36

Are you ready? Three-egg omelette.

1:07:361:07:38

Cooked as fast as you can. Are you ready? Three, two, one, go.

1:07:381:07:41

Different techniques here.

1:07:431:07:44

I think somebody's been practising here.

1:07:461:07:48

Make sure it's an omelette. It's got to be an omelette.

1:07:521:07:54

Look at that!

1:07:561:07:58

GONG

1:07:581:08:00

Eh! Who's been practising?

1:08:001:08:01

He's been practising and you haven't, by the looks of things.

1:08:031:08:06

I'm not bothered!

1:08:061:08:07

There you go, scrambled egg.

1:08:071:08:09

Yeah... Both... This one's...

1:08:131:08:15

-You said you weren't practising, chief.

-Well...

1:08:161:08:19

He's definitely been practising. This one, however, Kenny...

1:08:191:08:23

-I know. I missed the butter. Went down there.

-You know...

1:08:231:08:26

-It's good, that.

-It's not bad.

-And you get a little bit on here.

-Yeah.

1:08:271:08:31

You get an omelette there and scrambled eggs there.

1:08:311:08:33

That's a first, actually!

1:08:331:08:36

-Cor, I think I burnt my hand there!

-It's hot, isn't it?

1:08:361:08:38

-Kenny...

-Don't even ask, chef. Don't even ask.

1:08:391:08:42

Depends if you'll give us points for doing two types of egg dishes.

1:08:461:08:49

You're not going on with that.

1:08:491:08:51

You can't go on with that one. 28.44 seconds.

1:08:511:08:54

-However, Daniel...

-Come on, come on!

-Come on!

-Please!

1:08:541:08:58

Glyn said he'd do something very special if, er, I did well.

1:08:581:09:02

-(Please!)

-You wanted to beat him?

1:09:041:09:06

-Yeah, I wanted to beat...

-To beat Sat?

-Yeah. Yeah.

1:09:061:09:09

-You've beaten him.

-Go on?

1:09:091:09:12

-You've beaten everybody in this board.

-Oh, bring it home!

1:09:121:09:15

-You've beaten half of the people on this board!

-Oh, yeah! Great!

1:09:151:09:18

Look at him!

1:09:181:09:20

-Please!

-Grown-up men cry! Look at him! You did it...

1:09:221:09:25

Oh, chief... (Where's it going? Where's it going?)

1:09:251:09:28

-Please!

-Look at his face!

1:09:281:09:30

-In 18...

-Oh, chief!

1:09:301:09:32

Oh, yes!

1:09:341:09:36

Thank you very much.

1:09:381:09:40

He's more happy than when he won his two stars, but there you go!

1:09:421:09:45

I think Daniel was pleased with that result.

1:09:491:09:52

It's always been a pleasure to cook with Marcus Wareing,

1:09:521:09:54

and when he's brandishing a chunk of halibut,

1:09:541:09:56

you know you're in for a special treat.

1:09:561:09:59

Good to have you on the show. Congratulations, by the way,

1:09:591:10:01

cos this is your new restaurant. It's going to be after tonight.

1:10:011:10:04

That's right. Last one tonight.

1:10:041:10:06

The sign comes down and then a new sign goes up a week later.

1:10:061:10:09

A week later. The Berkeley Hotel. Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley.

1:10:091:10:12

-Can't wait.

-Still keep your Michelin stars, your two stars.

1:10:121:10:15

-That's right. Same team...

-But today

1:10:151:10:16

you're Marcus Wareing on Saturday Kitchen.

1:10:161:10:19

-So, what are we cooking?

-OK, we're going to do halibut.

-Yeah.

1:10:191:10:22

A filleted piece of halibut. First of all, James, I want you to

1:10:221:10:24

just quickly do me some beurre noisette, and we're going to do

1:10:241:10:27

these little quail eggs.

1:10:271:10:29

Beurre noisette is brown butter, which we just take a few knobs

1:10:291:10:32

-in here, nice hot pan like that.

-We'll just colour that nicely.

1:10:321:10:35

And we're going to be serving this with some little blanched leeks,

1:10:351:10:39

and some cob nuts, which you're going to do.

1:10:391:10:42

-Cob nuts, which I'm doing now, yes.

-Just going to top and tail the leeks,

1:10:421:10:45

like so, and just very quickly we'll actually char-grill them

1:10:451:10:49

but I just like to blanch them first. A pan of boiling water, like so.

1:10:491:10:54

-OK, that's it. I'm there.

-OK.

1:10:541:10:57

Now, you're going to little coddle, these?

1:10:571:11:00

-So these just go into the little pot?

-That's right. Butter,

1:11:001:11:02

and then crack the egg...

1:11:021:11:04

And then we'll just put them into the water over here with the leeks.

1:11:041:11:08

As soon as the leeks have finished, we'll drop those into there.

1:11:081:11:11

-So why the nut-brown butter? Why's that?

-Just the flavour.

1:11:111:11:14

Normally you'd put them into a pan and you'd get the butter to go brown

1:11:141:11:18

but because it's poached in the water, we just add it in first.

1:11:181:11:23

And talking about poached,

1:11:231:11:24

these are the little quail eggs that I'm putting in here.

1:11:241:11:27

No split yolks, James.

1:11:271:11:29

-I'll try my best. They go in there. Right, yeah.

-So we do six of those.

1:11:291:11:34

OK, I've got a little bit of oil in this pan and I'm just going to put

1:11:341:11:37

a drop of butter.

1:11:371:11:38

Now, these little moulds, they get them in kitchenware shops now,

1:11:381:11:42

-can't you, these moulds?

-You can. They're very easy to get hold of.

1:11:421:11:45

Little non-stick mats and moulds.

1:11:451:11:46

You can put them in the oven as well. You can bake with them.

1:11:461:11:49

Put them into the pot of water.

1:11:491:11:51

OK, I've put a little oil in there, James, a touch of butter

1:11:511:11:53

and I'm just going to drop in this washed watercress for the puree.

1:11:531:11:57

I've just reserved a few leaves back over there...

1:11:571:12:00

-for the garnish.

-No cracked yolks. Look at that.

-How you getting on?

1:12:001:12:03

-Oh, one. One's cracked.

-When you've done that...

1:12:031:12:07

OK, the watercress in. Little seasoning, James.

1:12:071:12:10

It's a good idea, if you're going to do this at home,

1:12:101:12:12

do it near where your pan's going to be.

1:12:121:12:15

-Shall I come over?

-I'm there, I'm there!

1:12:151:12:19

Leeks out. That's it.

1:12:191:12:21

-Good man. Perfect, perfect.

-They're in.

1:12:211:12:23

-Right, I've taken the leeks out.

-OK.

1:12:231:12:26

Watercress is in there. Just dry off the leeks and just a little...

1:12:261:12:31

Now, cob nuts. Where can people get cob nuts from?

1:12:311:12:34

-GREGG:

-They're actually Kent.

1:12:341:12:36

They're all over Kent. In fact, cob is the Anglo-Saxon word for head.

1:12:361:12:41

-Is it?

-Yeah. I'm an anorak. I'm sorry. Veg anorak.

1:12:411:12:45

Yeah, you can get cob nuts.

1:12:451:12:46

If you ever want an ingredient, anybody,

1:12:461:12:49

just put the name of the ingredient into a search engine

1:12:491:12:51

and then you'll come up with your local suppliers. Pretty much.

1:12:511:12:55

-OK, so we've got cob nuts.

-OK, watercress in.

-Puree here.

1:12:551:12:58

Is this watercress just cooked in a bit of butter or what?

1:12:581:13:01

Yeah, little bit of oil, bit of butter

1:13:011:13:03

and then just a touch of seasoning as well.

1:13:031:13:06

Little bit of chicken stock on top.

1:13:061:13:08

So where do you get your inspiration from for recipes?

1:13:081:13:11

Cos, I mean, you're probably one of the hardest-working chefs I know

1:13:111:13:14

in the restaurant. Where do you get time to sort of

1:13:141:13:17

go out and venture out and get inspiration, or is it just...?

1:13:171:13:20

We're very lucky cos people like Gregg bring fabulous ingredients

1:13:201:13:23

to us. They are our suppliers.

1:13:231:13:25

You do need to go out and do a little bit of searching but, for me,

1:13:251:13:28

the best way to be creative is let Mother Nature do it for you.

1:13:281:13:32

And actually we have everything available.

1:13:321:13:34

I think what all chefs should be very careful of, especially today,

1:13:341:13:37

is that customers are very aware of what is good and what is not,

1:13:371:13:40

is the seasonality. And I think by

1:13:401:13:42

keeping your cuisine very seasonal and as local and as British

1:13:421:13:45

as you possibly can. Of course in a fine-dining restaurant,

1:13:451:13:48

you do need to have some food from abroad because it's sort of expected.

1:13:481:13:51

You know, the foie gras and things like that. But we do try and keep

1:13:511:13:54

everything as local and the more we champion that, the better.

1:13:541:13:57

-OK, talking about local, we've got some halibut here.

-Yeah.

1:13:571:14:00

So I've just taken, basically, you've seen it, a big fish,

1:14:001:14:03

filleted it, cut it into little blocks. Olive oil. Nice hot pan.

1:14:031:14:09

And this doesn't take very long to cook as well. Searing this now...

1:14:091:14:12

-Four, five minutes.

-..literally four or five minutes.

1:14:121:14:14

Are you going to do... You've got three-and-a-half minutes.

1:14:141:14:17

Have I? OK. Eggs are on, watercress.

1:14:171:14:21

You've seasoned that with normal table salt, not the sea salt?

1:14:211:14:25

No, just table salt to begin with. Season first, straight into the pan.

1:14:251:14:28

You don't season your fish too soon,

1:14:281:14:29

because it brings out all of the water, the moisture in the fish,

1:14:291:14:32

so when you put it into the pan, it could end up poaching.

1:14:321:14:35

Some people put the fish in the pan,

1:14:351:14:37

and the water and the liquid comes out of the fish,

1:14:371:14:40

and it starts to poach.

1:14:401:14:41

What I want to do is get the frying first,

1:14:411:14:43

so we get a nice little bit of colour on to it.

1:14:431:14:45

OK, so the nuts you've taken out.

1:14:451:14:47

I've taken those out. You want me to do a little bit of puree as well.

1:14:471:14:51

Just literally watercress, a bit of stock's gone in there.

1:14:511:14:54

-A little bit of chicken stock. Very simple.

-Right, puree. I'm there.

1:14:541:14:58

I'm all over it, there we go. Look at these eggs, cooking away nicely.

1:14:581:15:02

-Great little thing you can cook those in.

-Yeah, fabulous.

1:15:021:15:06

So, we've got watercress in here.

1:15:061:15:08

The fish, you're going to cook that with a little cover over the top?

1:15:081:15:11

Just a little bit of butter in, James.

1:15:111:15:13

This is one of the dishes that we actually do in the restaurant.

1:15:141:15:18

About a month ago, this was with fresh asparagus puree and asparagus,

1:15:181:15:22

and fresh almonds.

1:15:221:15:23

Now we've just moved into a new season, the almonds have finished,

1:15:231:15:26

we've gone into watercress, we've got cobnuts.

1:15:261:15:28

We're just moving the theme forward as the seasons go.

1:15:281:15:31

You don't need to take this dish off the menu,

1:15:311:15:33

-just bringing it up in time.

-As well as everything else, winning awards.

1:15:331:15:38

-Yeah.

-What's the latest one? You're bound to have won a latest one.

1:15:381:15:42

Just become number one in London in the Harden's guide,

1:15:421:15:44

in restaurant, in service, in food. Three out of the top four awards.

1:15:441:15:48

One thing that's quite nice about it is that,

1:15:481:15:51

even though the name Petrus is moving,

1:15:511:15:53

it's nice to go all the way to the end of that legacy on a high

1:15:531:15:57

and to be number one is great.

1:15:571:15:59

So, what's next for you? Is the goal to get three Michelin?

1:15:591:16:03

-That is the goal.

-That's your main goal, is it?

-That's my goal.

1:16:031:16:06

I think for me, one of the most important things

1:16:061:16:09

was retaining my position.

1:16:091:16:11

Even though the new restaurant next week is a new name,

1:16:111:16:15

the concept is exactly the same as it was before.

1:16:151:16:18

The food, the price, the whole thing hasn't changed at all.

1:16:181:16:21

Because for me, James...

1:16:211:16:23

the restaurant Marcus is my own personal Petrus, Petrus is not broken

1:16:231:16:26

so there's no need to fix it, really. I'm very, very happy.

1:16:261:16:29

You're cooking the fish with a little cartouche on the top.

1:16:291:16:31

Yeah, I've put the cartouche on,

1:16:311:16:33

put some chicken stock in and that's nicely steaming. Turned off the heat.

1:16:331:16:37

If you could just take those out, put them onto that tray.

1:16:371:16:40

Those little eggs, look at that.

1:16:401:16:42

Coddled eggs. I'll bring them across.

1:16:421:16:44

If you could just flip them out with a teaspoon and then season them.

1:16:441:16:47

I'm all over it, chef. There you go. Season it as well.

1:16:471:16:50

Be generous with the salt and pepper.

1:16:501:16:52

I'm there, chef, I'm all over it. You just concentrate on your fish.

1:16:521:16:55

OK.

1:16:551:16:56

All right, OK.

1:16:561:16:58

I'm vetting them to make sure there's no shell in.

1:17:001:17:03

-I know there's shell in one of these. There you go.

-OK.

1:17:031:17:06

Just lift out the fish. Take the puree.

1:17:061:17:09

Be generous.

1:17:121:17:14

I'm using the puree as the sort of sauce on the plate, really.

1:17:141:17:17

Fish on top.

1:17:181:17:19

Now, you've done a little cheffy smeary thing!

1:17:191:17:22

No, I didn't, I just put a little puree on it.

1:17:221:17:25

I love it, it looks likes something a whippet...

1:17:251:17:28

you've just stood in, in the park!

1:17:281:17:29

-There you go. We just got that.

-Little puree on the plate.

1:17:291:17:32

Fish straight out of the pan, straight onto the top.

1:17:321:17:35

If you could just pick me some nice watercress, with stalks on, please?

1:17:351:17:39

-Stalks on, right.

-Put your eggs around like so.

1:17:391:17:43

Take your leeks. It's really nice, if you get them nice and dark

1:17:441:17:47

and char-grilled, they're a beautiful flavour.

1:17:471:17:50

-Is this on your restaurant menu?

-Yes. It is.

1:17:501:17:52

Go on, then, tell us what price. My mum's north of Watford.

1:17:521:17:56

-So make her fall off her stool.

-It's a three, four course price menu.

1:17:561:17:59

-So it's sort of £75 for three courses. So, 35, £40.

-Bargain.

1:17:591:18:05

-Bargain!

-Cobnuts on.

-Cobnuts. Watercress there, chef.

1:18:051:18:09

Pepper, bit of pepper on the plate. Watercress. Like so.

1:18:091:18:14

-Beautiful.

-And a bit of olive oil.

-No sauce.

1:18:161:18:19

While the oil goes on, remind us what that is again.

1:18:191:18:22

Pan-fried halibut, coddled eggs, char-grilled leeks,

1:18:221:18:24

watercress puree and salad.

1:18:241:18:26

Two-star Michelin food in eight minutes, how's that?

1:18:261:18:29

And I have to say, I've been to the restaurant

1:18:341:18:36

and it is worthy of three stars.

1:18:361:18:38

So, Michelin, if you're listening, he is worthy of three.

1:18:381:18:42

-Look at that.

-Dive into that, tell us what you think of that.

1:18:421:18:45

I've eaten Marcus's food before, it's superb.

1:18:451:18:48

But I like the idea of changing the veg along with the seasons

1:18:481:18:51

-and not changing the dish.

-Because the eggs, if you coddle them,

1:18:511:18:54

the yolks create a sauce as well.

1:18:541:18:56

-Exactly that, and the puree.

-Nice and simple.

-Very healthy.

1:18:561:18:59

Just nod again, that's got to be passed down.

1:19:001:19:03

Oh! Oh, mate.

1:19:031:19:05

I think the eggs add a lovely dimension.

1:19:051:19:06

If you couldn't, people who can't find halibut, some other fish?

1:19:061:19:10

Cod, bass, any white fish would work great with that dish.

1:19:101:19:13

Cook it identically, exactly the same.

1:19:131:19:14

If you didn't want to do the coddling, just a nice fried egg.

1:19:141:19:17

A classic fried egg, put it on top.

1:19:171:19:19

When that fish went in, remember, 3.5 minutes to go, that is cooked.

1:19:191:19:22

-What do you think, guys?

-Lovely.

1:19:221:19:25

Silence, silence. It's just silence, just in heaven.

1:19:251:19:28

That's fantastic dish to serve for a summer lunch.

1:19:331:19:36

In the hope she'd get her food heaven, baked raspberry cheesecake,

1:19:361:19:39

Aggie MacKenzie brought in raspberries

1:19:391:19:41

that were grown in her very own allotment.

1:19:411:19:43

But there was every chance that she'd be eating her food hell,

1:19:431:19:46

cauliflower, with my home-made piccalilli.

1:19:461:19:49

Let's find out what she got.

1:19:491:19:50

Your version of food heaven would be these delicious raspberries,

1:19:501:19:53

even the raspberries out of your little allotment as well.

1:19:531:19:56

-That's right, yes.

-Which could be transformed

1:19:561:19:58

into a delicious cheesecake,

1:19:581:19:59

baked, American-style with white chocolate.

1:19:591:20:01

Alternatively, it could be your dreaded food hell,

1:20:011:20:05

the delicious cauliflower. I love that.

1:20:051:20:07

Home-made piccalilli with all this lovely ham, we've got pork pie.

1:20:071:20:10

Lovely little pickle with a little anchovy dip

1:20:101:20:13

-to go with more little raw crudites.

-Always got to be a pudding for me.

1:20:131:20:16

How do you think the viewers have voted?

1:20:161:20:18

Oh, I hope they'll be with me and want the cheesecake. Definitely.

1:20:181:20:22

-It's got to be cheesecake.

-This is actually never happened before.

1:20:221:20:26

-Equal!

-We've actually got a 50-50 split.

1:20:261:20:29

So I'm going to be totally impartial,

1:20:291:20:31

I'm going to ask you guys to decide.

1:20:311:20:34

And the two guests we've got over there, Rachel and Emma.

1:20:341:20:37

So, first off, hands up if you want to see the cheesecake.

1:20:371:20:40

That's voted, anyway! So it's going to be the cheesecake then.

1:20:411:20:44

But don't forget, the recipe for the piccalilli

1:20:441:20:46

is on our website as well if you want that.

1:20:461:20:48

What I'm going to start off with,

1:20:481:20:50

we'll start off with our sponge base.

1:20:501:20:52

Made from scratch, of course, I can tell!

1:20:521:20:54

I'm thinking, because getting up this early,

1:20:541:20:57

-I didn't have time to put the oven on.

-Excuses, excuses.

1:20:571:21:00

You can get away using one of these, I'm going to use

1:21:001:21:02

a very thin piece of sponge. Right then, guys.

1:21:021:21:04

We've got a bowl underneath here,

1:21:041:21:06

what I want you to do is mix together,

1:21:061:21:08

-pop that, this is cream cheese, and the vanilla together.

-Oh, my God.

1:21:081:21:11

So what we're going to do, this is a serious style cheesecake.

1:21:111:21:15

We cut this out. Now, you can use this up

1:21:151:21:17

for trifle and bits and pieces.

1:21:171:21:20

There we go. And we start off with our loose-bottom cake tin.

1:21:211:21:24

Put a bit of greaseproof in the bottom.

1:21:241:21:26

What we need to do is use a sharp knife.

1:21:261:21:28

-Serrated knife, and cut this sponge disc in half.

-OK.

1:21:291:21:33

You can chop the chocolate for me as well.

1:21:331:21:35

So we take the sponge,

1:21:351:21:36

then literally, we very, very carefully...

1:21:361:21:40

Now, you know when you've gone a little bit wrong

1:21:401:21:42

when it all turns red!

1:21:421:21:44

Just literally be really careful with this. Go right the way through.

1:21:441:21:48

You want it very, very thin.

1:21:481:21:51

-Excellent.

-That will sit in the bottom.

1:21:511:21:53

-Nice, good.

-Now, we're going to lose that.

1:21:531:21:55

You can use that, dry it all out, blend it, use it as crumbs,

1:21:551:21:58

put it on ice cream, all kinds of stuff. Delicious.

1:21:581:22:01

Then we're going to top this with a lovely liqueur.

1:22:011:22:04

I've got some... Well, actually,

1:22:041:22:06

this looks like it's come from Atul's dressing room.

1:22:061:22:08

-And it's his aftershave.

-It has!

-Oh, that's gorgeous.

1:22:081:22:13

-Is it cassis or something?

-It's raspberry liqueur.

1:22:131:22:16

-Framboise, is it?

-Yes. It's delicious and we put a little bit in there.

1:22:161:22:19

-Oh, it's beautiful.

-There you go.

-Yum.

1:22:191:22:22

Right, it's just...and this is just also delicious with champagne.

1:22:241:22:27

-Very nice.

-Just fabulous. Lovely. In we go with the vanilla, boys.

1:22:271:22:31

-Have you got the vanilla in there?

-Vanilla's in.

1:22:311:22:33

This is really simple, this mixture here,

1:22:331:22:35

we've got the cream cheese, this is a full-fat version.

1:22:351:22:38

-There isn't such a thing as a low-fat cheesecake.

-I agree.

1:22:381:22:40

If you're going to have it, you've got to go for it.

1:22:401:22:42

Go for everything.

1:22:421:22:44

Whisking up the vanilla and the cream cheese in there.

1:22:441:22:46

-What sort of vanilla have you got in there?

-This is just a vanilla pod.

1:22:461:22:49

Take the seeds out. Use that. In we go with the sugar.

1:22:491:22:53

-Lovely.

-The mix will start to get thicker and thicker.

1:22:531:22:56

There's two ways of making a cheesecake.

1:22:561:22:58

The American style which is baked, which we're doing,

1:22:581:23:01

sponge base. The other one is the English style, set biscuit base.

1:23:011:23:04

-Yes. I quite like a biscuit base as well.

-In we go with the eggs.

1:23:041:23:09

One at a time, because we don't want the mixture to split.

1:23:091:23:12

-OK, so the whites as well?

-The whole lot go in.

1:23:121:23:15

And this obviously, as it's cooking, will help to set our cheesecake.

1:23:161:23:20

-But also to help set it, what we do is we put this cornflour in.

-OK.

1:23:201:23:26

-Got you. Helps with the texture.

-Yep. We can throw in the cornflour.

1:23:261:23:30

There we go. What I'm going to do is just get some juice of a lemon.

1:23:331:23:36

Lemon and raspberries go particularly well together.

1:23:361:23:41

They do, don't they? Gorgeous.

1:23:411:23:43

If you can whip me up this cream and make me a lovely little lemon cream.

1:23:431:23:46

-Yep.

-That would be great.

1:23:461:23:47

So, in we go with the lemon juice. That can go in.

1:23:491:23:52

And then double cream. Just a small amount, Aggie!

1:23:521:23:56

-Lovely.

-Actually, quite a lot. Actually, all of it, there you go.

1:23:591:24:03

-What the hell!

-Just put it all in.

-So, no lemon rind? Just the juice?

1:24:031:24:06

No lemon rind because I'm actually going to do

1:24:061:24:09

a little lemon cream with this as well.

1:24:091:24:10

-Oh, right, yeah.

-Just on the side.

-Gorgeous.

1:24:101:24:14

At this stage, you can flavour it or leave it as it is.

1:24:141:24:17

I tell you what's also great in there, which is brilliant

1:24:171:24:20

for your raspberries, because Scotland's famous for them...

1:24:201:24:23

What's this going to be?

1:24:241:24:26

About 15,000 tonnes you export of raspberries a year.

1:24:261:24:29

Oh, yes, I mean, they're incredible.

1:24:291:24:31

-My mum makes the best raspberry jam ever.

-It's delicious.

1:24:311:24:33

Raspberries and strawberries are superb.

1:24:331:24:35

It's just the easiest thing.

1:24:351:24:37

So we're making a little cream here which is whipped cream,

1:24:371:24:40

with some sugar in there, there you go, just a bit of icing sugar.

1:24:401:24:43

The reason why we put icing sugar in is that you can't taste it.

1:24:431:24:46

You can't taste the grains.

1:24:461:24:48

We've got some lemon rind going to go in there with some lemon juice,

1:24:481:24:51

whisk that up first otherwise you'll end up with sour cream.

1:24:511:24:54

So whisk it first. Then we've got some chocolate.

1:24:541:24:56

Now, at this point, you can actually decide

1:24:561:24:58

what you want to flavour your cheesecake with.

1:24:581:25:01

You've got to taste it to know what to flavour it with.

1:25:011:25:03

You can put banana in... It's not cooked yet!

1:25:031:25:05

I know, but I love a mixture.

1:25:051:25:07

-I'm going to scrape that bowl.

-Oh, right! OK!

1:25:071:25:09

I'm going to flavour this with obviously white chocolate.

1:25:091:25:13

-But I mean, Scotland...

-So it's low-calorie!

-Oh, yeah!

1:25:131:25:15

Scotland's most famous dessert using raspberries is the old cranachan.

1:25:151:25:19

That's right, I like a cranachan, actually.

1:25:191:25:22

-Whisky would work really well in here.

-Yes, it would.

1:25:221:25:24

-I'm going to use your raspberries for this one.

-Oh, lovely!

1:25:241:25:27

So throw those in. Now we fold this together.

1:25:271:25:30

What you're looking for is like this...

1:25:301:25:32

-kind of like raspberry ripple sort of texture.

-Gorgeous.

1:25:321:25:35

-Yum, yum, yum.

-Throw in the raspberries.

1:25:351:25:37

And then throw all of this in there.

1:25:371:25:40

This is going to feed a lot of people, isn't it?

1:25:401:25:42

Well, unless you're greedy women!

1:25:421:25:44

You could take one of these each in Yorkshire!

1:25:441:25:48

And then we do a bit more chocolate on the top.

1:25:481:25:51

And then more of this mixture.

1:25:511:25:54

-Lovely. Good quality white chocolate.

-That's the secret.

1:25:541:25:56

I think that's the secret with all chocolate.

1:25:561:25:58

A lot of people say dark chocolate,

1:25:581:26:00

the high percentage it is, the better it is.

1:26:001:26:02

That's true but it's more like a connoisseur's chocolate

1:26:021:26:05

when you start to get that sort of stuff.

1:26:051:26:07

Too strong, it becomes too bitter. So then what we do...

1:26:071:26:10

Perfect amount, that's great. I'll lick that.

1:26:101:26:12

-It's like a kid!

-Exactly!

1:26:121:26:14

Then what we can do is bake it in the oven.

1:26:141:26:17

Bake it in the oven quite slowly for about an hour,

1:26:171:26:20

about 160, 170. 375. It will actually puff up.

1:26:201:26:26

-Leave it to cool down, and we end up with this.

-Oh, that's beautiful!

1:26:261:26:29

-If you go to any sort of New York eatery...

-That's perfect.

1:26:291:26:32

..you end up with this kind of looking cheesecake.

1:26:321:26:36

That is just irresistible.

1:26:361:26:38

But then I thought what we'd do with this, very quickly,

1:26:381:26:41

is we'll take our raspberries. This is something... Where's the...?

1:26:411:26:44

I thought he'd gone back to his dressing room.

1:26:441:26:48

Then what we do is take some more raspberries. This is great.

1:26:481:26:51

Warm raspberries. Delicious. So we throw in the raspberries. Hot pan.

1:26:511:26:56

-The flavour gets unleashed.

-Watch yourself, there you go.

1:26:561:26:59

Bit of that.

1:26:591:27:01

Take it off the heat. Don't cook it for any more than that, just that.

1:27:011:27:05

-OK. Right. Just a touch.

-Then grabbing our knife...

-Smells great.

1:27:051:27:10

-Oh...

-..we can take a wedge.

1:27:101:27:12

-Now, I think...

-James, that looks fantastic.

1:27:141:27:16

What you don't do with cheesecake is place it in the fridge.

1:27:161:27:19

-Oh, really?

-Yeah, because I think it goes rock solid.

1:27:191:27:22

And then you don't get the flavour.

1:27:221:27:24

How long did you cook it in the oven for?

1:27:241:27:26

This is cooked for about 50 minutes to an hour, just so it sets,

1:27:261:27:29

just sets on top. Then we've got our raspberries here.

1:27:291:27:33

Beautiful, they're all jammy and lovely.

1:27:331:27:36

The secret is, don't take it any more than that.

1:27:361:27:38

-You just kind of want to show the pan...

-Hold their shape.

1:27:381:27:42

That's it, really. Show them the heat. Nice and simple.

1:27:421:27:45

We've got our whipped cream here. Thanks, boys.

1:27:461:27:50

-Could you put the lid back on my aftershave, please?

-OK!

1:27:501:27:54

-Put the lid back on his aftershave.

-This is so fancy!

1:27:541:27:58

-Oh!

-Well, there you go.

1:27:581:28:00

-It was a 50-50 choice.

-You should be a chef, that's lovely.

1:28:001:28:03

-That is gorgeous!

-Tell me what you think.

1:28:031:28:06

Oh my, God, so excited. Oh, heavens.

1:28:061:28:10

Girls, just wait. Come on, girls. This is just amazing.

1:28:101:28:14

Olly's chosen some great wine today, actually a sparkling wine.

1:28:141:28:19

Muscato spumanti. It's a sparkling wine. £4.49.

1:28:191:28:23

-It's amazing.

-Can you pass it down?

1:28:241:28:26

That is lovely, it's so light, it's creamy,

1:28:261:28:29

it's rich but it's got this lightness, it's fantastic.

1:28:291:28:31

There's no question, she certainly liked that result.

1:28:361:28:39

That's it for today's Best Bites.

1:28:391:28:40

If you'd like to cook any of the great food from today's programme,

1:28:401:28:43

you can find all of the studio recipes on our website.

1:28:431:28:46

Just go to bbc.co.uk/recipes.

1:28:461:28:48

There are loads of great ideas for you to choose from.

1:28:481:28:51

So get cooking, have a great rest of your weekend,

1:28:511:28:53

and I'll see you very soon. Bye for now.

1:28:531:28:56

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