Episode 6 Spring Kitchen with Tom Kerridge


Episode 6

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Spring is finally with us and we've got some great recipes

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and guests to get you excited about the new season.

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Welcome to Spring Kitchen.

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Hello, and welcome. We've got a great line-up for you today.

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We're heading down to Cornwall to visit Nathan Outlaw for a special

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Spring Kitchen recipe of crispy pollock with pickled carrot salad.

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Plus, we take a look into the BBC food archive and join

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Nigel Slater for a simple supper - Thai-inspired prawn noodle soup.

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I'm joined here in the kitchen by Ching-He Huang,

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who is going to be cooking some spicy Asian fare,

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and to go through some of the wonderful herbs and mushrooms

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available at this time of year, our in-house forager, Rupert Burdock.

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-Hello to you two. You OK?

-Yes.

-Spring a good time of year?

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-Best time of the year.

-Fantastic.

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And to share our feast is the host of DIY SOS, Nick Knowles,

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-hello, Nick.

-Thank you.

-How are you, you all right?

-Yes, very good.

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Looking forward to summer, as I always do.

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Spring, everything is growing and sprouting.

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All the green vegetables coming through.

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-Are you a big food fan?

-I'm a big food fan,

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I like to cook, especially with my eldest son,

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who is a big food fan as well. My brother's got an allotment,

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so we get a lot of stuff from that.

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OK. Let's see what we've got on offer today.

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What are you going to be cooking?

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I'm going to make you my spicy lemon grass larb, it is

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a national dish of Laos, so I'm going to try to get it right!

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-It looks absolutely fantastic.

-It is really fresh and vibrant.

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Beautiful. Very spring-like.

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OK, and later I'm going to be making a recipe using some lovely

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morel mushrooms.

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I'm going to make them into a sauce to go with some spring chicken

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and a Parmesan risotto. Lovely.

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Lots of chicken, lots of risotto and loads of lovely morels.

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So, Rupert, as an expert forager,

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I hope you're going to like this first dish,

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-because it's got a few flowers on it.

-Yes!

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Great time of year for flowers!

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Flowers in food, I'm never quite sure about flowers in food.

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-Well, they're lovely. They work very well.

-Cauliflower. Broccoli.

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That's not a flower, really, is it? It's not actually a flower.

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-I think it is. Bees go to it.

-A floret.

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There you go, cauliflower floret.

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At your place, you do, is it a borage soup?

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-We do a soup with borage in it, yeah.

-That is a flower.

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Borage does flower, doesn't it?

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-It does indeed.

-It has a wonderful flavour of cucumber.

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That's right, it has a certain chemical

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which is in a lot of plants, a lot of wild plants,

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it adds that cucumber flavour to it. A lovely smell.

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It is absolutely fantastic.

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Honestly, this is the best thing about having guys like this on -

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even as a chef of 22 years, you end up learning more

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and more stuff, especially about flowers.

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Is he really a Burdock as a name? Is that like dandelion and burdock?

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A forager called Burdock, exactly, it's fantastic.

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Who would've thought it?

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-The Chinese believe you live up to your name, so...

-Is that right?

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-So, Burdock, there you go.

-People think I'm a bit of a know-it-all.

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-That works.

-Nick "Know-it-all".

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OK, so the first dish I'm going to be cooking is a bacon chop

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with broad beans.

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Basically, broad beans with marjoram and some broad bean flowers.

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The flowers from broad beans taste beautiful, they are fantastic.

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Broad beans are great, Are you a big fan of broad beans?

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I am, I tend to blanch them and ping them out of their shells,

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-because their shells are quite dry.

-Honestly, that is music to my ears,

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because that is exactly what you are going to be doing.

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These are going into some boiling salted water,

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and at the same time I've got here a bacon chop.

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This is a beautiful, dry cured piece of bacon. It's been smoked.

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So, it's like your back bacon, where you thinly slice it,

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this is just a lump of it.

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You can start getting those smells coming out,

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the caramelisation of that bacon is beautiful.

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Then we're going to deglaze the pan with a bit of malt vinegar,

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which is absolutely stunning. Keep it simple,

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the broad beans we're going to pod, heat them up with a bit of butter.

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What's going on in your world, Nick? Tell me.

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Well, all kinds. We've got more DIY SOS big builds going on.

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It's become kind of the social conscience of the country now,

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people coming out to help other people, which is nice.

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It continues to be the same bunch of slightly drunk

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and smelly builders I started out with 15 years ago, having a laugh.

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At the same time, it's turned into this big community thing.

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So that's kind of cool. All the quiz shows, afternoon quiz shows.

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That's going good.

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-I do a lot more writing these days.

-Really?

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What sort of writing?

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Well, I've got a novel on the go at the moment, but also dramas.

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I've just written a film, which will hopefully be made this September,

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and I'm researching a new film on Marie Antoine Careme.

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Yes, I've been reading this. That's incredible.

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How much research do you have to do about that, and who is he?

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Marie Antoine Careme was the greatest chef who ever lived, basically.

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I'm sure Gordon Ramsay would have something to say about that.

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I think even Gordon would accept that this was the man.

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This was the man who invented puff pastry,

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the first one to wear a chef's hat, this was the guy who was

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born before the French Revolution and grew up named after the Queen

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of France, Marie Antoine for a bloke, and then the Queen gets beheaded.

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So he is then running around Paris with a girl's name -

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the Queen's name - a dead queen's name - in revolutionary France.

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He then gets to cook for the big cheese, Talleyrand.

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Then he cooks for Napoleon.

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Then the Tsar of Russia takes Paris,

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so he goes to St Petersburg and cooks for the Tsar.

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Then he cooks for the first Rothchilds making their fortune.

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Then he cooks for the Prince Regent down in Brighton in the pavilion,

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-if you've ever been down there.

-Yes, Brighton Pavilion.

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-You must have seen the big kitchen.

-Actually, I have, it's incredible.

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Built for him when they got him over from France.

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The first celebrity chef to be taken around. I'll start on this.

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-Talk and work, chef.

-Taking the wedding ring off -

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I'm only taking the wedding ring off for a second, by the way.

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Just for Jessica's benefit. I ought to take the watch off as well.

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And how long before that is in production and the book's finished?

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For ever. Mostly, at the moment, I'm just going to Paris

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and eating in expensive French restaurants to get the flavour of it.

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I love that. Welcome to my world - it's great, isn't it?

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But the funny thing is, if you go into a French restaurant

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and you talk to the maitre d' about the fact you're doing research

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on him, they instantly fall in love with you,

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because they think you know about cooking and you know about food.

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And they know what you are talking about,

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or they think they know what you are talking about.

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And that's all you need to do.

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It's a great tip, if you are ever in a French restaurant,

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for getting really good service.

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France is brilliant for that, there is so much culture and history.

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That'll do. That's plenty.

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OK, so what we've got is this bacon which is being nicely cooked.

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Lovely sear, lovely caramelisation on the bacon.

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And what happens is, at the bottom of the pan,

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all those crispy bacon bits will stick to the bottom of that pan,

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and what we're going to do is leave it to rest for a little

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bit and deglaze the pan with a bit of vinegar and a bit of butter.

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This is malt vinegar.

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Because everyone has malt vinegar and nobody ever uses it.

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It's fantastic, it's got that lovely, rich, dark kind of flavour.

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We're just going to glaze the top of the bacon with it.

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Where the bacon is quite fatty and salty, full of flavour

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and that smoke, that vinegar helps -

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just the acidity cuts through it, and also gives it a lovely glaze.

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When I was little, my sisters all used to go off to dancing school,

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and my dad and I on a Saturday morning used to do bacon and beans.

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We used to fry the bacon until it was really hard

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and left that sticky stuff all over the bottom of the pan,

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then pour the tin of beans in and use it to deglaze the pan

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so all the flavour of the sort of burnt bacon went into the beans.

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Then you put the bacon back in and softens it back up.

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Sir, I've got to be honest with you, I've pinched that idea off your dad.

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This is basically, this is basically bacon and beans! Pretty much.

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Thanks to your old man for the recipe.

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I tell you what we could also do is pick a few bits of marjoram

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for here. Marjoram is a beautiful herb.

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Tell us about the marjoram herb, Rupert. What do you know about it?

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Marjoram is related to oregano and thyme.

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It's a Mediterranean plant, Mediterranean origin.

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It's very good for dispelling yin energy, excessive yin energy.

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So if you are very cold,

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-you should have...

-You should have some marjoram, yes, some heat.

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What would your family back in Gloucester say about you stood

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-here talking about yin and yang and herbs?

-To be honest...

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Did they tell you I'm from Stroud? That explains everything.

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Rupert lives around the corner, so we've got a lot in common,

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although miles apart!

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LAUGHTER

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So, I deglazed the pan, that's gone over the top of the bacon, and then

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we are just bringing a bit of water, a bit of butter, up to the boil.

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We're going to reduce it and glaze those beans and cover them

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with the marjoram. Marjoram and broad beans go very well together.

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They almost taste a little bit sage-like.

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You know that kind of hard-core sage flavour?

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Does it grow like sage?

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Does it kind of take over the world like sage?

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It does, you find it a lot in abandoned gardens.

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It will take over old patios and cracked pavements.

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-It just keeps coming back year after year.

-It does in my garden, anyway.

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No, I'm sure, I think sage is exactly the same.

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So, what we've got there, a pinch of salt.

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It's a little bit of water from the broad bean poaching,

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that we cooked them in in the first place,

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so it actually works a bit like a sauce.

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Just going to put the marjoram leaves in,

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and literally we're going to grab a spoon...

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Spoon it over the top.

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So we've kind of got this broad bean and marjoram sauce and stock

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just to go with the bacon.

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This is kind of like the ultimate springtime breakfast.

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This is what you could do for your old man.

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It's a new version of bacon and beans.

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Come on and have a little try of this.

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That lovely broad bean flavour, just because we've taken the outside

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husks off, I know what you mean,

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they can make it a bit dry and pithy.

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Then on top of that, we will cover it with the broad bean

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flowers, which make it look beautiful and very spring-like,

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and actually have a fantastic flavour. Look at that.

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That is a big, manly piece of bacon turned into a beautiful,

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feminine little dish.

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-Amazing.

-Very simple but beautiful flavours. Big, powerful flavours.

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The saltiness of the bacon,

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the cure and the heavy smoke coming through, also the vinegar,

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but then the lightness of the broad beans and marjoram, hopefully.

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OK, now, in every show we get out

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and about on special spring trips with some of our favourite chefs.

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Today, we are joining Nathan Outlaw in Port Isaac in Cornwall.

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He's going after some pollock to go with a pickled carrot salad.

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What's fantastic about spring for me

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is the change in season which brings so many new ingredients.

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In the kitchens, we get really excited,

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because it means we can start using really fresh flavours, lots of

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fresh ingredients, and Cornwall just comes alive at this time of year.

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Today, I've got a recipe for you that I think you'll love,

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but first I need to go get some fish.

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-Morning, Nathan. Nice to see you.

-I'm after some pollock.

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-Have you got any?

-Yes. Line-caught.

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-Are you going to show me how to do this properly?

-I'll try.

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Pollock's not got much flavour to it, but I quite like the texture.

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I would agree on that one. It's got a good texture.

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-It needs a bit of help on its way, though, doesn't it?

-It does.

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There you go, how's that one? All right? I'll wrap it up.

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-Please, that would be brilliant.

-There you go.

-Thanks for that.

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-Thank you very much.

-Take care, have a good day.

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Today, I'm going to cook you a lovely spring kitchen recipe of crispy

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pollock, with pickled carrots and a sweet vinegar dressing.

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It's got lovely lime zinginess to it,

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sweet smoked paprika as well,

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and I think it's perfect with that lovely crispy batter on the pollock.

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The ingredients you're going to need are obviously the pollock,

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some carrots, some lime, spring onions, little bit of shallot,

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some garlic, green chilli, coriander and some smoked paprika.

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The first thing we need to do to make this pollock exciting

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is to get it marinated.

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I'm going to take the pollock fillet,

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rip off a bit of the coriander, just chop straight through it.

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I'm just going to use half of the chilli,

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the other half I'm going to put into the pickled carrots.

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Pollock is very bland, so don't be afraid of a bit of heat.

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So we chop the chilli quite fine and add that to the coriander.

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Now, the next thing to do is take the zest of the lime.

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The last thing we're going to add to the marinade is this smoked paprika.

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This gives it a smokiness. Just take...

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..the pollock. We're going to cut it into nice chunks.

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I like sort of pieces that sort of size, you know?

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Perfect for one bite.

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Give the whole thing a bit of a mix.

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You can leave that now, ideally for a couple of hours.

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The next thing I need to do is to pickle the carrots.

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You will need four ingredients to make the liquor.

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We've got equal quantities of white wine, white wine vinegar...

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..sugar...

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..and water.

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Once you've got all those ingredients in a pan,

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just bring that to the boil.

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While we're waiting for that, we will get the carrots prepared.

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What you can do is grate the carrots, but I'm going to slice them

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quite thin, because I quite like the texture of carrots.

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So that's all the carrots done. We've got a shallot next.

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A bit of chilli as well.

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As fine as I can.

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And then the last thing we're going to do is use...

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These are fantastic for garlic, these little graters.

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A lot quicker than chopping it.

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So, once you've got all your vegetables ready, just take a bowl...

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Add them all into it.

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Essentially, all you're doing is making a pickled vegetable salad.

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And then the pickling liquor has come to the boil.

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Just going to pour that over the raw vegetables.

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I'm going to use them once they have softened a bit, but you could keep

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them for up to a month in the fridge no problem, in a tight Kilner jar.

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So give it a bit of a mix around.

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Give that a helping hand as well,

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if we just lay a piece of clingfilm on top.

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It creates a vacuum.

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The next thing we need to do, we've got our pollock marinating,

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our pickled vegetable salad ready, so we just need to make the batter.

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Two tablespoons of flour.

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And two tablespoons of cornflour.

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Next thing, we need some ice-cold soda water.

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Add the soda water to the flour.

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This batter needs to be quite thin,

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so you're looking for something like that.

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Almost like water, but it will work, I promise.

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It's as simple as that.

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OK, that's all your main components of the dish ready,

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all we need to do now is fry the fish.

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The first thing to do is drop the marinated pollock into the batter.

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It's a bit dirty, this bit, but it's all good fun.

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Straight into the fryer.

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They've been cooking for about two or three minutes.

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Give them a good shake.

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You probably saw I put a bit of batter in there as well,

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that's because I love these crispy bits, so add them as well.

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So, the fish is ready, so, as quick as I can,

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I'm going to put the spring onions, the coriander, into this salad.

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Obviously, that salad is still warm, so you don't want to add

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the coriander too soon, or you lose all the colour.

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Lovely salad...

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..to go on the plate there.

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And then a pile of these fried pollock bits.

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Don't forget the scratchings. You've got to love the scratchings.

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And a touch of rapeseed oil, just a little bit. There you go.

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That is my crispy pollock with pickled carrots

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and sweet vinegar dressing.

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I hope you agree that it's simple enough for you guys to cook at home,

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and I tell you what, it tastes fantastic.

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Have a go.

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Thank you very much, Nathan, that looked amazing.

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Kind of like the best fish and chips ever, just without the chips.

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OK, Ching, it's your time to cook. What are you going to be doing?

0:18:290:18:32

I'm going to make my spicy lemon grass larb,

0:18:320:18:35

so it's a traditional dish of Laos and when Ken and I

0:18:350:18:38

-travelled on our trip to China...

-Ken Hom.

-..we passed by Yunnan.

0:18:380:18:43

Yunnan in China borders Laos, and the cuisine there is amazing,

0:18:430:18:49

so there's a little bit of a crossover.

0:18:490:18:51

And I just fell in love with the herbs and spices they use.

0:18:510:18:55

Essentially, larb is like a minced raw dish. Served with salad.

0:18:550:19:02

So, traditionally, you just mince up some pork, chicken and fish

0:19:020:19:07

-and season it with fish sauce.

-So it's raw meat?

0:19:070:19:10

So, raw chicken or raw pork or raw fish?

0:19:100:19:13

Exactly, so think of like beef tartare, for example.

0:19:130:19:16

They've got their version.

0:19:160:19:17

But, because of the ingredients, it's really light and fragrant

0:19:170:19:22

and spring-like, and acidic to kind of cook it?

0:19:220:19:24

Yes, to kind of cook it.

0:19:240:19:26

Of course, we're not going to do that here,

0:19:260:19:28

and there are lots of different types of wok-fried larb,

0:19:280:19:31

so I'm going to do my spring take,

0:19:310:19:34

with a bit of a kick, spicy lemon grass.

0:19:340:19:37

Spicy lemon grass, that's what I've got in here.

0:19:370:19:39

I've sliced some lemon grass

0:19:390:19:40

and I'm smashing it together in this pestle and mortar.

0:19:400:19:43

Also, in the pan next to you, we've got some rice,

0:19:430:19:46

what sort of rice is this?

0:19:460:19:48

We've got glutinous rice, otherwise known as sticky rice.

0:19:480:19:51

It doesn't have gluten in.

0:19:510:19:53

It's just really nutty and wonderful and aromatic. You toast it up.

0:19:530:19:57

-In Laos cuisine, it's called khao khua.

-Khao khua.

0:19:570:20:03

-Khao khua, and it's used as a seasoning.

-OK.

0:20:030:20:05

So, you just basically put that toasted, ground,

0:20:050:20:08

and you sprinkle a little bit on top of the larb,

0:20:080:20:11

and it's wonderful, just so delicious.

0:20:110:20:14

So, what I'm doing - I've got chicken thighs there, with the skin removed,

0:20:140:20:18

and I've just sliced the skin into nice bite-size pieces.

0:20:180:20:21

-So, this is the skin, this is just the chicken skin?

-Yeah.

0:20:210:20:25

And then get chicken thighs and then you just slice it into slices

0:20:250:20:28

and then, using a very sharp knife, a good knife,

0:20:280:20:30

you can mince it up yourself in the kitchen,

0:20:300:20:32

-or you can you get your butcher to do it for you.

-OK.

0:20:320:20:34

-Debone, and you can keep the bone for a nice stock or something.

-Sure.

0:20:340:20:38

This is really...

0:20:380:20:40

So, we just want it sort of nice, minced pieces.

0:20:400:20:44

-That's it. It's good.

-Are these toasted enough?

0:20:450:20:48

-Yeah, they look beautiful.

-OK, OK.

-Yeah.

0:20:480:20:50

And what I'll do is smash these up again in the pestle and mortar.

0:20:500:20:53

Yep, please.

0:20:530:20:55

Fantastic.

0:20:550:20:57

There's something hugely intimidating

0:20:570:20:58

about having someone use an axe in the kitchen.

0:20:580:21:02

It's a proper piece of cooking equipment.

0:21:020:21:05

It's a wonderful tool.

0:21:050:21:07

OK, so, into this chicken skin we're now going to put

0:21:070:21:12

-a little of this spice?

-Yes.

-A little bit of the ground rice.

0:21:120:21:15

A little bit of the ground rice, so you season it like that.

0:21:150:21:19

And then here we have some of the toasted...

0:21:190:21:21

Yes, we've got some ground, roasted dry chillies,

0:21:210:21:24

and you've just pounded that as well, so, nice flakes in there.

0:21:240:21:28

-Is that enough?

-Yeah, bit more.

-We like it nice and spicy, boys?

0:21:280:21:32

-Yeah, yeah.

-Bring it on.

-Good, good. OK, nice and spicy it is.

0:21:320:21:35

Good generous bit of salt.

0:21:350:21:36

-And then I'll get this on.

-Yeah.

-Give it a good mix.

-Yeah, good mix.

0:21:360:21:39

Pop it on the griddle,

0:21:390:21:40

and then we're going to cook it until it's nice and crispy.

0:21:400:21:43

So, no oil on there, no oil,

0:21:430:21:44

just the natural fats that's going to come from the chicken skin.

0:21:440:21:49

Yeah, it's going to render and it's going to be nice.

0:21:490:21:51

-OK.

-Looks great, Chef.

0:21:510:21:53

OK, meanwhile, I've got my wok nice and hot,

0:21:530:21:55

so you've kind of got your own little stir-fry there.

0:21:550:21:58

-Yeah, I'm loving this.

-You can toss that.

0:21:580:22:00

It feels like some form of Singaporean street food

0:22:000:22:03

-kind of thing.

-Yeah!

0:22:030:22:05

Love it.

0:22:050:22:06

-So...

-From Laos.

0:22:060:22:08

-From Laos, yeah, exactly.

-LAUGHTER

0:22:080:22:10

-Singaporean street food from Laos. It's a fusion.

-Fusion dish.

0:22:100:22:14

So, what have you got going on in your world, Ching?

0:22:140:22:17

Tell us what's happening.

0:22:170:22:18

My world - well, I've got last finishing touches to my wedding...

0:22:180:22:23

-Your wedding, yeah.

-Yeah.

0:22:230:22:24

-Is it going to be a big wedding this year?

-Ongoing saga.

0:22:240:22:27

Well, I've had the Taiwanese bit with my family, out in Taiwan,

0:22:270:22:31

which was wonderful.

0:22:310:22:33

-Over a tea ceremony we bonded, and we sealed the deal over tea.

-How lovely!

0:22:330:22:38

But we've got to do the legal bit now,

0:22:380:22:40

-so that's going to be in England...

-OK.

-..in a few weeks' time.

0:22:400:22:43

-OK, OK.

-Yeah.

-The bit that costs money.

0:22:430:22:46

Yes!

0:22:460:22:48

-It costs too much money!

-And books and television?

0:22:490:22:51

Books and television, have you got things going on this year?

0:22:510:22:54

Yeah, in June, I head off to the States

0:22:540:22:57

and then I film season two of Restaurant Redemption,

0:22:570:23:00

which is about me going to help struggling Asian fusion restaurants.

0:23:000:23:07

-And that was a big hit in the US.

-It was, it was. Well...

0:23:070:23:11

-And doing a second series of it.

-Yes, doing a second series.

0:23:110:23:15

So, your role is to go into Asian restaurants to see what's happening,

0:23:150:23:18

see where it's going wrong and then helping.

0:23:180:23:20

Yeah, help them with their menu.

0:23:200:23:22

Because, you know, in Asian cooking, it's very much about the food.

0:23:220:23:25

We don't really worry about the decor or the service.

0:23:250:23:29

-In some cases there IS no service.

-Good, that suits this place.

0:23:290:23:31

Suits us - don't worry about the decor,

0:23:310:23:33

just as long as the food tastes nice.

0:23:330:23:35

If the food is great, people will come.

0:23:350:23:38

In that Asian culture, is it normal for a woman to be in charge

0:23:380:23:42

in the kitchen, and tell the guys what they're doing wrong?

0:23:420:23:45

Oh, I'm sorry, but women are always in charge in the kitchen.

0:23:450:23:48

-Is that right?

-Yes. All across China, mostly Southeast Asia...

0:23:480:23:52

Women are always in charge, Nick, haven't you found that?

0:23:520:23:55

Yeah - absolutely. Yeah.

0:23:550:23:57

-Let's bail out quickly on that one.

-Yeah, yeah...

0:23:570:24:00

I like cooking with you!

0:24:000:24:02

I don't think that's just Asian culture, is it?

0:24:020:24:06

Quite right.

0:24:060:24:07

It's all culture.

0:24:070:24:09

So, we talked earlier about the yin and the yang with Rupe over there.

0:24:090:24:15

The yin and the yang in the profiles of food, what does it mean?

0:24:150:24:17

Explain it a bit more.

0:24:170:24:18

So, yin and yang - it pulls the whole universe.

0:24:180:24:22

The whole universe is based on yin and yang energy.

0:24:220:24:25

Yin is very female, yang is male. Yin is cooling, yang is very fiery.

0:24:250:24:31

And so, in food, we have yin and yang properties

0:24:310:24:34

when it comes to ingredients, and also cooking techniques.

0:24:340:24:38

So, for example, vegetables are really yin,

0:24:380:24:40

and meat is very, very yang.

0:24:400:24:44

So, when you have a dish on the plate that's got meat

0:24:440:24:46

and vegetables, and depending how it's cooked -

0:24:460:24:48

if it's wok-fried, it's more yang, if it's steamed, it's more yin,

0:24:480:24:51

you want to bring a balance of yin and yang.

0:24:510:24:53

-So, it's all about the balance.

-Exactly.

0:24:530:24:56

So, I've just sliced some cucumber and some carrots to go with it.

0:24:560:24:59

And you were telling us an interesting fact

0:24:590:25:01

about carrots, Rupert.

0:25:010:25:02

They come from a family of poisonous vegetables.

0:25:020:25:04

Er, yeah - well, almost.

0:25:040:25:06

It's a big family, the carrot family, the umbellifer family.

0:25:060:25:09

It's got wonderful plants, edible plants like fennel, parsley,

0:25:090:25:13

coriander, but also deadly poisonous plants, as well, like hemlock,

0:25:130:25:18

hemlock water dropwort, fool's parsley...

0:25:180:25:21

It's just strange,

0:25:210:25:23

usually strains of plants are either all edible or all poisonous,

0:25:230:25:27

but for some reason there's stuff that will make you healthy and happy

0:25:270:25:30

-and stuff that'll kill you.

-Right!

0:25:300:25:32

Brilliant. But carrots are all right?

0:25:320:25:34

Those carrots, yeah, that's fine. Don't worry about them.

0:25:340:25:37

-Fool's parsley?

-It is indeed called fool's parsley, yeah.

0:25:370:25:40

It's a giveaway in the name, isn't it?

0:25:400:25:42

-Yeah.

-"Deadly parsley" might be a better name for it.

0:25:420:25:45

Fool's parsley, fool's parsley.

0:25:450:25:47

How are we doing there? Are we almost there?

0:25:470:25:49

Yes, we are almost there.

0:25:490:25:51

So, the trick with this is,

0:25:510:25:52

you just fry up some of the dry chillies

0:25:520:25:54

together with the lemon grass, you add the chicken thighs in,

0:25:540:25:58

and then you cook it, add a little bit of sake or cooking wine -

0:25:580:26:01

that's just my addition, cos I think it's just beautiful,

0:26:010:26:04

-flavours the meat really well.

-Yeah.

0:26:040:26:06

Fish sauce with a little bit of sugar just to help it caramelise,

0:26:060:26:09

and the idea is just to cook it until all the liquids reduce,

0:26:090:26:12

-until the chicken thighs have absorbed all the flavours.

-OK.

0:26:120:26:16

So, that's what you want to do, and at the end,

0:26:160:26:19

ideally cook that a bit longer

0:26:190:26:20

-and then you just toss through...

-I've got the crispy chicken skin,

0:26:200:26:24

-I'm just draining a little bit.

-Wonderful.

0:26:240:26:27

And that's on top - that's been seasoned with the ground rice,

0:26:270:26:30

the toasted dry chillies...

0:26:300:26:33

-Yes.

-..and then a little bit of sea salt.

-Yes, exactly.

0:26:330:26:35

-And here we've got...?

-We're going to garnish with some Thai basil.

0:26:350:26:40

I love Thai basil.

0:26:400:26:42

You could put fresh chillies, if you like to eat fresh chillies.

0:26:420:26:45

-And a little bit of coriander.

-Big fan of fresh chillies.

0:26:450:26:49

-You in favour of Asian food, Nick? You OK?

-Oh, massively, yeah.

0:26:490:26:52

I love it.

0:26:520:26:53

It's the combination of that sort of fiery chilli flavour

0:26:530:26:57

with the fresh flavours,

0:26:570:27:00

like when you get that raw, unripe mango salad

0:27:000:27:04

that's got chilli on it, and it's got the crunchiness,

0:27:040:27:07

-and peanuts and things - lovely combinations. Love it.

-Yeah.

0:27:070:27:11

It's very, very clean and it's very, very fresh flavours,

0:27:110:27:13

and you can smell - come and have a taste.

0:27:130:27:16

-I thought you'd never ask!

-We have...

0:27:160:27:18

LAUGHTER

0:27:180:27:19

With a dish like this, chicken and herbs are very tonifying.

0:27:190:27:22

It looks beautiful, all those colours, it's very vibrant,

0:27:220:27:25

it's very spring-like, it's very fresh.

0:27:250:27:26

And you're going to garnish it with the crispy stuff.

0:27:260:27:29

-Have we got knives and forks?

-Yes, so just dig in.

0:27:290:27:31

-Get in there, get digging in.

-And some of this khao khua,

0:27:310:27:34

we're going to sprinkle some of this khao khua.

0:27:340:27:36

-Some more of the rice on the top.

-Yes.

0:27:360:27:38

So that balance of flavour,

0:27:380:27:39

if you've got acidity, you've got sweetness,

0:27:390:27:41

you've got freshness, and then lots of crunch as well.

0:27:410:27:43

-Yes. Hopefully!

-Hopefully. I love it.

0:27:430:27:45

Some fresh limes, and traditionally it's eaten with sticky rice.

0:27:450:27:49

-There you go.

-Oh, that's fantastic!

-Mm.

0:27:490:27:52

The crunchy skin is wonderful on the top,

0:27:520:27:53

and then underneath that you've got all that lovely

0:27:530:27:57

sort of lemon grassy flavours in the chicken.

0:27:570:27:59

-It's delicious, innit?

-Absolutely fantastic.

0:27:590:28:02

OK, so it's time to take a dip into the BBC food archive,

0:28:020:28:06

and today we're off to see Nigel Slater for another simple supper.

0:28:060:28:09

He's making a Thai-inspired prawn noodle soup

0:28:090:28:12

with chillies, lemon grass and coriander.

0:28:120:28:14

Yin or yang?

0:28:140:28:16

-Pretty balanced.

-Balanced, we like that.

-Yeah.

0:28:160:28:18

When I'm thinking about what to cook,

0:28:290:28:31

I quite often put things together, I suppose, by instinct.

0:28:310:28:34

And I find that very often what ingredients grow together

0:28:340:28:39

very often go together.

0:28:390:28:41

It's like when you're on holiday,

0:28:410:28:43

you suddenly find yourself treading on fresh herbs

0:28:430:28:46

and you'll suddenly smell a little bit of oregano or a bit of mint

0:28:460:28:49

or thyme, and you look at the goats and the sheep that are grazing,

0:28:490:28:53

and you just think, "Well, yes, these are going to go together."

0:28:530:28:56

The lamb is eating the oregano, or it's eating the thyme.

0:28:560:29:00

My theory of "what grows together goes together"

0:29:060:29:10

doesn't just work for food out of my own garden.

0:29:100:29:13

It also applies to food that has come from around the world.

0:29:130:29:17

I'll show you what I mean with my Friday night supper,

0:29:170:29:20

a delicious Thai-inspired noodle soup.

0:29:200:29:23

When all these ingredients come together,

0:29:260:29:29

they create something really quite dramatic.

0:29:290:29:33

For this dish, I'm using ginger, chillies, lemon grass,

0:29:330:29:37

garlic and fresh coriander.

0:29:370:29:40

All ingredients with their roots in Southeast Asia.

0:29:400:29:43

This is the sort of recipe that I would have looked at

0:29:430:29:45

a few years ago and thought, "Well, I'm not making that,"

0:29:450:29:48

because it had a great, long recipe list.

0:29:480:29:50

But, in fact, when you actually get down to it,

0:29:500:29:53

after you've done the shopping

0:29:530:29:55

and a little bit of chopping,

0:29:550:29:58

there's nothing else to do.

0:29:580:29:59

It's all over in ten minutes.

0:29:590:30:01

For the base of this soup, simply chop your ginger and chillies,

0:30:010:30:05

keeping the seeds if you're feeling brave,

0:30:050:30:09

slice some lemon grass for a hint of citrus,

0:30:090:30:12

cut some garlic and fresh coriander,

0:30:120:30:14

then put them all into a food processor

0:30:140:30:17

with a dash of vegetable oil to avoid making the paste too dry.

0:30:170:30:21

Now, to that very basic paste,

0:30:230:30:27

you can add whatever you want, really.

0:30:270:30:29

I love those very warm flavours.

0:30:290:30:33

Spices like coriander, and like turmeric -

0:30:330:30:37

what they add is a depth and a warmth, and almost an earthiness.

0:30:370:30:43

So, I just crush a few little coriander seeds.

0:30:430:30:47

It's one of those kitchen jobs I just love doing.

0:30:470:30:49

Fresh coriander and dried coriander give completely different flavours.

0:30:530:30:58

There's something almost slightly orangey to dried coriander seed.

0:30:580:31:01

And a tiny bit of turmeric I put in, as well.

0:31:010:31:05

Add some stick to the paste.

0:31:090:31:11

I'm using vegetable stock here.

0:31:110:31:13

Give it a good stir.

0:31:130:31:14

Then it's time to start making this into a main course.

0:31:140:31:17

I'm going to add some noodles to it, and it can be any noodle.

0:31:200:31:22

It can be the really thick, beefy ones...

0:31:220:31:25

..but there's something that feels right

0:31:260:31:28

about using rice noodles rather than wheat ones.

0:31:280:31:33

And they don't even need cooking.

0:31:350:31:36

All I've got to do is pour over some boiling water

0:31:360:31:40

and just let them sit there.

0:31:400:31:41

To soften the heat of the sauce, I'm adding coconut milk -

0:31:450:31:48

the cream of Southeast Asia.

0:31:480:31:51

At this point I could add anything else I want.

0:31:530:31:56

So...

0:31:560:31:57

..I could put in some chicken.

0:31:590:32:01

If I was feeling extravagant, some scallops.

0:32:020:32:05

I could put in some mushrooms,

0:32:050:32:07

or those wonderful little Thai aubergines.

0:32:070:32:11

But I'm actually going to use some prawns, because...

0:32:110:32:14

..because it's my Friday treat.

0:32:150:32:17

Haven't been extravagant this week at all.

0:32:190:32:21

De-vein the prawns if you want.

0:32:250:32:27

This gets rid of the yuck, and also helps to cook them quicker.

0:32:270:32:30

Add the prawns, some more fresh coriander,

0:32:320:32:35

and then season with some fish sauce.

0:32:350:32:38

A little goes a long way.

0:32:380:32:40

And I think of it as the very essence

0:32:410:32:45

of the cooking of Southeast Asia.

0:32:450:32:48

Drain the noodles, place them in a bowl

0:32:500:32:53

before ladling in the aromatic soup.

0:32:530:32:55

That ticks so many boxes for me.

0:33:050:33:08

It's hot, it's exciting, it's exhilarating, it's soothing,

0:33:080:33:12

it's everything I want a bowl of food to be.

0:33:120:33:15

Everything.

0:33:160:33:17

I promise, this dish is worth every bit of effort you put into it.

0:33:280:33:32

Truly delicious.

0:33:320:33:34

-Thank you very much, Nigel. That looked incredible, didn't it?

-Yeah.

0:33:390:33:42

Now, throughout this series,

0:33:420:33:44

we've showcased some real key spring ingredients

0:33:440:33:46

that are at their absolute best at this time of year.

0:33:460:33:49

Today I'm going to be roasting a spring chicken

0:33:490:33:51

with a morel sauce and a Parmesan risotto.

0:33:510:33:53

Ching, I need you to give me a hand. You can get on risotto duty.

0:33:530:33:56

-All right, no worries.

-All right, let's get cracking.

0:33:560:33:58

What you need to do first and foremost

0:33:580:34:01

is to chop me a celery stalk and a shallot,

0:34:010:34:03

and we're going to get that sweating off in a bit of butter

0:34:030:34:06

-for the base of the risotto.

-OK.

0:34:060:34:07

Now, spring chicken - now,

0:34:070:34:09

what I've done with this bad boy is soaked it in a brine.

0:34:090:34:13

Now, this is a 20% solution, so it's 200g of salt to one litre of water.

0:34:130:34:20

-OK.

-And what that process does is kind of -

0:34:200:34:22

although you're putting something in a salt thing

0:34:220:34:25

that you would normally expect to draw moisture,

0:34:250:34:27

it helps to trap and seal moisture in,

0:34:270:34:29

-so the chicken is going to stay nice and moist and delicious.

-Lovely.

0:34:290:34:32

A spring chicken - they're not massive things,

0:34:320:34:34

they're probably two people per chicken,

0:34:340:34:37

-so you get a leg and a breast.

-OK.

0:34:370:34:39

-Or could you do a whole chicken, Nick?

-Yeah, easily.

0:34:390:34:42

-I could do a whole chicken.

-Party portion.

0:34:420:34:44

Yeah, one-portion chickens.

0:34:440:34:46

OK, so I'm going to roast this.

0:34:460:34:48

And by brining the skin, as well, it gets the skin crispy.

0:34:480:34:51

It does, it helps get the skin crispy.

0:34:510:34:53

OK, so the chicken on,

0:34:530:34:54

and then I'm just going to brush it with a little bit of oil.

0:34:540:34:57

And a pinch of salt...

0:34:590:35:00

..and a pinch of pepper,

0:35:020:35:03

and then we're going to stick it into a very high oven.

0:35:030:35:07

A very high oven.

0:35:070:35:09

And we're going to roast it.

0:35:090:35:11

-If you've got a high temperature on something like a chicken...

-Yes.

0:35:110:35:14

..then you're worried that the outside will be cooked,

0:35:140:35:16

and then inside by the bone will still be raw and bloody

0:35:160:35:18

and dangerous, that's my big fear always with chicken.

0:35:180:35:21

Well, the brining process - because it's salt,

0:35:210:35:23

it almost helps to cure it a little bit, which means that...

0:35:230:35:26

-It protects the moisture.

-Yeah, exactly.

0:35:260:35:29

OK, then I'm going to get on my chicken sauce.

0:35:290:35:32

Now, the sauce to go with this

0:35:320:35:33

is going to be a sauce that we're going to cook the morels in as well.

0:35:330:35:37

Now, morel mushrooms are around this time of year,

0:35:370:35:40

and they are a fantastic, beautiful wild mushroom.

0:35:400:35:44

-Mm.

-Young Rupert has got some in front of him.

0:35:440:35:46

Tell us about those morels.

0:35:460:35:48

-They're very different to the ones that I've got over here.

-Yeah,

0:35:480:35:51

you've got Morchella elata and I've got Morchella esculenta.

0:35:510:35:54

-They're both morels.

-Ah, I thought that, yeah.

0:35:540:35:56

Yep, yep. I thought that.

0:35:560:35:57

They're not actually that different, it's more about size.

0:35:570:36:01

These are definitely in the top three

0:36:010:36:03

of all mushroom-appreciators' delicious mushrooms in the world.

0:36:030:36:07

They also make great houses for woodlice and slugs and ants...

0:36:070:36:10

-LAUGHTER

-You've really got to shake them out.

0:36:100:36:13

I'm not sure that's a selling point of why we're cooking with them.

0:36:130:36:17

But they are a spring mushroom. They're around about now.

0:36:170:36:20

Yeah, this is a good time to go out and look for them.

0:36:200:36:23

Look for them in old apple orchards, anywhere with sandy soil.

0:36:230:36:26

If you live in a sandy soil area, in your back garden,

0:36:260:36:28

where there's a lot of sandy soil.

0:36:280:36:30

-But do make sure you know what you're looking for.

-Exactly, yeah.

0:36:300:36:33

You can go out and hold people's hands and find them with them.

0:36:330:36:36

-Yeah, exactly.

-Don't go sending people out to pick mushrooms,

0:36:360:36:39

there's untold damage that they can do to themselves.

0:36:390:36:42

Find a local forager, go out with them,

0:36:420:36:44

and then you'll see it first-hand. Or study yourself, you know?

0:36:440:36:48

-Get a lot...

-Good guide book.

0:36:480:36:49

Yeah, not just one good guide book, lots of good guide books,

0:36:490:36:52

and take it slowly, respectfully, be careful,

0:36:520:36:55

cos there's stuff that could kill you out there.

0:36:550:36:57

-And take some indigestion tablets with you.

-Yeah.

0:36:570:37:00

If you think you've swallowed something poisonous,

0:37:000:37:02

stick your fingers down your throat, that's the most important thing.

0:37:020:37:05

-Brilliant.

-Not something you hear often on a cookery show, is it?

0:37:050:37:08

-LAUGHTER

-Obviously, people,

0:37:080:37:11

don't eat anything that you think is poisonous.

0:37:110:37:13

Get yourself a good guide book or two and pick the right mushrooms.

0:37:130:37:17

It's like danger-eating, isn't it?

0:37:170:37:19

It's like that thing they do with the puffer fish in Japan -

0:37:190:37:22

just enough poison to make you buzz, but not enough to kill you.

0:37:220:37:26

Have you done puffer fish?

0:37:260:37:27

No, that's one thing I can't say that I've done,

0:37:270:37:29

and I'm not sure that I'd like to take the risk, just in case.

0:37:290:37:32

Precisely.

0:37:320:37:34

I think I'm an adventurous eater,

0:37:340:37:36

but then when I see myself with puffer fish, I'm like, "No."

0:37:360:37:39

-Would you eat it, Tom?

-Yeah, I'd definitely eat it.

-You would?

0:37:390:37:41

Yeah, God, yeah. I'd have a go at most things.

0:37:410:37:43

Chef, does this look good?

0:37:430:37:45

OK, that looks great.

0:37:450:37:46

So, what you've got there is, you are sweating down some shallots,

0:37:460:37:49

some celery, and then you're going to put in the risotto rice.

0:37:490:37:53

Now, this is Carnaroli risotto rice, but you can use Arborio.

0:37:530:37:56

It doesn't really matter as long as it's good risotto rice.

0:37:560:37:58

-OK.

-And then into that you're going to slowly add chicken stock.

-Yeah.

0:37:580:38:02

-Start cooking and heating up your risotto.

-OK.

0:38:020:38:07

-We've got one...

-Lovely. A little bit of wine, as well?

0:38:070:38:09

-A little bit of wine would be great.

-Yeah.

-A bit of chicken stock.

0:38:090:38:12

We've got a risotto that we've got going here,

0:38:120:38:14

and this is being cooked with chicken stock.

0:38:140:38:17

So, you start at this point

0:38:170:38:18

-and you're going to end up with this point.

-OK.

0:38:180:38:20

-That's what we're looking for.

-Gorgeous.

0:38:200:38:22

-It takes quite a while to cook.

-Yeah.

0:38:220:38:24

OK, now, I'm just bringing this sauce down over hot pans.

0:38:240:38:28

And this chicken sauce is being reduced down with garlic

0:38:300:38:33

and thyme, little bit of bay leaf,

0:38:330:38:36

and then we're going to put in some double cream.

0:38:360:38:39

-Bring it up to the boil.

-Lovely.

0:38:420:38:44

-And it's so easy. So simple!

-It is very easy.

0:38:440:38:49

And then, what we're going to do is poach the morels in the sauce.

0:38:490:38:52

Because you need to cook morels, don't you?

0:38:520:38:55

Yeah, you need to cook all mushrooms, really.

0:38:550:38:58

If you're living in civilisation - if you want to be like a wild man,

0:38:580:39:01

like Bigfoot for a while, then just eat everything raw.

0:39:010:39:05

That kind of appeals to me - do you fancy living like Bigfoot, Nick?

0:39:050:39:08

Yeah, every now and again

0:39:080:39:10

I think it's time to go and live up a hillside and drink yak's milk

0:39:100:39:13

and shave me head,

0:39:130:39:14

but no, it only takes a couple of hours before I realise

0:39:140:39:17

what I need is a cafe somewhere on the King's Road.

0:39:170:39:19

Yeah, yeah.

0:39:190:39:21

No, you can never be too far away from a latte, can you?

0:39:210:39:24

There it is. The chicken sauce with double cream.

0:39:250:39:28

We're just going to poach the morels in it now.

0:39:280:39:31

Now, add to this sauce, I'm going to put in a little splash of brandy

0:39:310:39:34

and a little splash of sweet wine.

0:39:340:39:37

Now, served with poached morels normally is a wine called vin jaune,

0:39:370:39:41

from an area in France, and it's made with late-picked grapes,

0:39:410:39:45

so they kind of have this musty, rich, strong taste to them.

0:39:450:39:50

But it's quite difficult to get hold of, so if you haven't got it,

0:39:500:39:53

a little splash of sweet wine and a little splash of brandy.

0:39:530:39:56

It's not the same thing, but it has that same kind of musty flavour

0:39:560:40:00

that goes very well with morels.

0:40:000:40:01

We're just going to bring it up and poach it.

0:40:010:40:04

Will that complement the sweetness of the chicken meat?

0:40:040:40:06

Sweetness of the chicken, and it's beautiful.

0:40:060:40:08

-How's that risotto doing?

-I think it's looking good.

0:40:080:40:11

-We've got Parmesan, mozzarella...

-Parmesan, mozzarella.

0:40:110:40:14

If you can get some Parmesan and some mozzarella into that,

0:40:140:40:16

it'd be brilliant.

0:40:160:40:18

And then, into that, we're just going to add a little bit

0:40:180:40:21

of beurre noisette, so I'm going to put some butter onto the melt,

0:40:210:40:25

and we're going to take it to kind of like a burnt butter stage.

0:40:250:40:28

We have the chicken roasting here.

0:40:280:40:30

Now, this has been roasting for about 35 minutes to 40 minutes.

0:40:300:40:33

Chef, a whole mozzarella?

0:40:330:40:34

-Yeah, stick it all in.

-OK.

0:40:340:40:36

Stick it all in, why not?

0:40:360:40:38

-Do you like mozzarella?

-Yeah, course.

0:40:380:40:40

But this would have to be a dish on my...

0:40:400:40:42

If you don't, you're in trouble.

0:40:420:40:43

Yeah. This would have to be my "relaxed" day.

0:40:430:40:46

I've been trying to lose weight recently,

0:40:460:40:48

so I have six days where I'm on it, and then one day where I go,

0:40:480:40:50

"I don't care what I'm eating today."

0:40:500:40:52

-And this would be my "don't care what I'm eating today" thing.

-OK.

0:40:520:40:55

-So, your cheat day.

-Yeah.

-Your cheat day.

0:40:550:40:57

So, the chicken is cooked.

0:40:570:40:59

Going to joint it, take it off.

0:40:590:41:00

Now, the legs - it's all still beautifully...

0:41:000:41:03

It's still got a little bit of pinkness to it,

0:41:030:41:05

but that's because of the brine.

0:41:050:41:06

So, if you imagine a chicken that's been in brine -

0:41:060:41:09

if you imagine bacon, bacon has been in brine,

0:41:090:41:11

that's what keeps it nice and pink.

0:41:110:41:13

So a chicken in brine is the same thing, it keeps it nice and moist.

0:41:130:41:16

Keeps it lovely.

0:41:160:41:18

Just keeps all that flavour in.

0:41:190:41:21

-So pink doesn't necessarily mean not cooked properly.

-No.

0:41:210:41:25

Unless you've brined it, well, it probably does, yes.

0:41:250:41:28

But if you've brined it first...

0:41:280:41:29

You can see it's still got a lovely colour to it,

0:41:290:41:32

-it's still nice and moist.

-OK.

0:41:320:41:34

-Take the breast off...

-That's looking great, Chef.

0:41:340:41:37

-Risotto ready?

-Yeah.

-Let's get that risotto out, then.

0:41:370:41:39

We're going to put the chicken...

0:41:430:41:46

-Here you go, Chef.

-..onto there.

0:41:460:41:49

Then a few celery leaves to go into the risotto would be great, Ching.

0:41:490:41:52

-OK, so just torn in?

-Just give them a little slice, that'd be brilliant.

0:41:520:41:57

And actually what we've got... Beurre noisette.

0:42:000:42:03

Little bit of lemon juice, little bit of burnt butter.

0:42:050:42:09

-There you go. We can stir that into the risotto as well.

-Lovely.

0:42:110:42:15

-Yum!

-Little bit of flavour.

0:42:150:42:16

Stick that into the pan, into the pot.

0:42:160:42:19

-And then I will...

-Oh, look at that.

0:42:190:42:21

-..dress the chicken.

-That mozzarella.

0:42:210:42:24

-Come on, guys. It's nearly time for you to come on over.

-Is it?

0:42:240:42:27

So, this sauce...

0:42:270:42:28

The poached morels sit on top of the chicken.

0:42:310:42:33

Morels and chicken, they're just so good together.

0:42:330:42:36

Sorry...

0:42:370:42:39

That does look the biz.

0:42:390:42:40

There we go. It's one of those most beautiful spring...

0:42:400:42:44

kind of French-Italian crossovers, here. Bit of risotto.

0:42:440:42:48

There we go, guys.

0:42:490:42:50

If you get in there and taste that, that'd be lovely.

0:42:500:42:53

-Little bit more...

-How are we doing?

-There we go.

0:42:540:42:57

-That's beautiful.

-Yeah, we happy with that?

0:42:570:42:59

And the chicken and morels are so good together.

0:42:590:43:01

-Ooh.

-That's fantastic.

-Chicken and morels,

0:43:010:43:03

they're absolutely beautiful, aren't they? Really good.

0:43:030:43:05

And the risotto? Happy?

0:43:050:43:07

-Risotto's lovely.

-That sauce is delicious.

-Good risotto, girl.

0:43:070:43:10

It was brilliant.

0:43:100:43:11

OK, that's all we've got time for on today's Spring Kitchen.

0:43:110:43:13

A big thank you to Ching-He Huang, Rupert Burdock and Nick Knowles.

0:43:130:43:17

And, of course, the amazing Nathan Outlaw.

0:43:170:43:19

All of our recipes are available on the website,

0:43:190:43:22

please go to bbc.co.uk/springkitchen.

0:43:220:43:25

Thank you all ever so much for watching,

0:43:250:43:27

and we will see you next time. Bye-bye.

0:43:270:43:30

See you later, bye.

0:43:300:43:31

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