Episode 7 Spring Kitchen with Tom Kerridge

It's springtime and we have a show packed full of seasonal recipes

and entertaining guests for you to enjoy.

Welcome to Spring Kitchen.

Hello and welcome.

Now, we have a great line-up for you today.

We join Jason Atherton,

who's gone in search of some peas and broad beans

for a superb recipe using roasted cod, especially for us.

Plus, we take a peak into the BBC Food archive and join Raymond Blanc

for his take on a tortellini with roasted nuts and sage butter.

Now, joining me in the studio is one of Wales's finest chefs,

and today he's come all the way from North London!

It's Bryn Williams.

And also joining us is our in-house forager to talk about some of

the lovely spring veg and herbs you can find at this time of year -

-it's Rupert Burdock. Hello, chaps, how are we?

-How are you doing?

Good, good. Springtime, are we happy about that?

-Green veg. Green, green, green.

-Green, green, green.

Everything's been allowed to grow. Nothing's been cut back yet.

Fantastic. We have two guest stars with us today

from the new comedy drama Trying Again -

it's Jo Joyner and Chris Addison. How are we doing, guys?

APPLAUSE

-Happy?

-Yeah, good.

-Springtime, you love it?

-Absolutely love it.

-And food.

-And food more.

-We love that a lot.

We love food a lot.

The spring bit isn't what brought us, it's the kitchen bit.

-It's the fact that people are cooking food.

-Yeah.

-OK.

Bryn, what are you going to be cooking?

I'll be cooking peas, girolles and mint

and we're going to glaze it all up

then do a nice seared scallop and slice it up with raw shallots.

A ceviche dressing. Fresh and nice and light.

It's very seasonal and very green and light, but with loads of flavours.

That sounds fantastic, can't wait to see that.

And later on, I'm going to be doing a recipe with Douglas fir pine.

I'll be making a Douglas fir pine custard

with a blood orange curd and a coconut tuile.

Now, Rupert, we're going to come and talk to you in a little bit

about fruit and vegetables that are in season.

Before that, Jo and Chris, you come with me,

we're going to do a bit of cooking. Lead the way, guys.

There we go.

Park yourself in the middle, a bit of a rose between two thorns!

-Sorry, Chris. I was calling you a thorn.

-None taken.

OK, so, the first dish we're going to be doing

is a bit of grilled sardine, a very simple salad,

some grilled lettuce and some samphire.

So, samphire, what can you tell us about that, Rupert?

Well, Tom, it's a member of the okra family,

so it's high in protein. It's got a good mouth feel,

as they say in Japan. Nice round tips to it.

Nice hollow vacuoles inside.

It also can be found in Britain, on mudflats at the seaside.

Mudflats at the seaside. You have to make sure you know what

you're picking. Do you ever do foraging?

-No.

-Only in my garden.

-Only in your own garden.

-Amongst the weeds!

-Does that count?

-I've got wild garlic!

-Wild garlic in your garden?

-Yeah.

-That counts as foraging?

-Absolutely.

Garden is the first place to start when you are looking for wild food.

But you have to know what you're getting, or take Rupert with you.

It was there for years before my mum came round and said,

"Oh! I was looking for some of that!"

-Your mum is a fan of cooking?

-My mum's great.

She's always grown everything as well, since I was a kid.

It's not until now, now when it's all trendy,

that I realise how lucky I was, having such an organic upbringing.

She grows everything.

And Chris, your background, your family background of food?

-Is it food led?

-Yeah, lots of food. My gran was from Austria,

so we have a lot of Middle European food,

we had quite a lot of, you know, schnitzel and goulash

and all of that, is my childhood memories.

Fantastic, and at the minute, the two of you have been working on

-a show together, Trying Again?

-Yes. Trying Again.

-Tell me about it.

Well, it's a grown-up romantic comedy, is that right?

That's right, I think that's fair.

In which we play a couple who are kind of supposed to be together

but they're kind of trying to get their lives back on track,

-after Meg, who I play... Oh, you play...

-I see what you did there.

has had a little wobble, had an affair.

We are trying to get our lives back on track.

So you actually co-wrote this?

I co-created it. So I...

The wonderful Simon Blackwell, who sat there and wrote the jokes,

we sat in a room and decided we really wanted to make a

grown-up romantic comedy and how we were going to go about doing that.

-Something he could write and I could be in, basically.

-OK.

So, it is based on a couple, one's had an affair

and they are trying to piece their lives back together.

I think we have a small clip coming up of when you've been

advised by a marriage guidance counsellor to go away.

-Paula has sent us away, yes.

-Paula has sent you away.

Let's have a little look.

Welcome, how can I help yourselves?

Ourselves are Matt Aldridge and Meg Molloy.

-We're just checking in.

-Oh, yes.

You're one of Paula's couples.

You're booked in for the full spa package.

Are we?

That is what we include for these...

for couples that have booked via Paula.

Right.

That is the spa and restaurant itinerary for today and tomorrow,

-I hope that's acceptable to yourselves.

-OK.

And we do have scented candles and sensual massage oils,

offered as a complementary complement

within the room environment.

-Thanks.

-Not a problem at all.

First floor, room eight.

Good luck with everything.

APPLAUSE

Looks very awkward.

Very awkward situation.

Things haven't been great for them at that point, have they,

in the bedroom area,

and the counsellor has clearly told everyone in the hotel.

-LAUGHS

-Everybody knows why they're there.

Everybody knows why they're there.

But, we know you, Joy,

from actually spending a lot of time in EastEnders.

-Yeah, seven years.

-Seven years, that is a long time!

-It is, yeah.

And you left a couple of years ago?

No, last year. This week last year, I think.

Did you leave under a cloud, or is there space for you to go back?

You always leave under a cloud, really, but not in a coffin.

Not in a coffin, so, there is space, there is space.

A coffin is not always a barrier to coming back in soap operas!

No, it's not, is it? Bobby Ewing, for one.

Bobby Ewing, yeah.

OK, so what I have got going on here,

I have some gem lettuce that is on a char-grill.

We're just trying to get... For me, lettuce is fantastic

and a good thing to do with lettuce is always cook it.

So it's on a char-grill, giving it lots of flavour.

The sardines, we're just grilling,

just to get a nice bit of taste and flavour that goes through them.

We're just going to flake it all up and make it into a salad.

The sardines, a good thing to know about sardines is that

farmed salmon eat four times their body weight

in sardines, which is a waste of fish.

How do they get the tins open?

THEY ALL LAUGH

You've got him on that one!

Sardines, they're a fantastic fish, they're amazing.

They're around this time of year,

they've got that... They're high in Omega-3 oils,

they taste fantastic, they've got this beautiful strong flavour,

but this way we're flaking it down and that charred flavour

helps to mix it all together. Are you a big fan of sardines, Bryn?

I love sardines. It is one of those fish we don't use enough of, really.

I think there's so much flavour in there.

I think the bones is a bit of an issue for some people but

the flavour of the fish, especially this time of year, is fantastic.

They are also very, very good value for money.

They're also very good value for money.

I'm just making a little bit of a dressing using red wine vinegar,

some Dijon mustard and some olive oil.

I'm just bringing it together to make an emulsion,

which is what we're aiming at doing.

We want some bread. We should have had bread in our pockets,

so when you're not looking...

We can sort out some bread for you, that's no problem at all.

Chris, you spend a lot of your time on comedy chat shows?

8 Out Of 10 Cats, Have I Got News For You...

Yeah, I'm a regular on Mock The Week and stuff, yeah.

-And Mock The Week.

-Yeah, absolutely.

Yeah, that's exactly what I do. And it's really good fun.

It's quite a challenge.

It is quite a feisty, lively thing, but it's kind of...

Those shows are exciting, they're very much of the moment.

I know they're repeated every night on channels that we can't mention,

but they're sort of of the moment,

and the nice thing about making a show like Trying Again is that

you can make something that's a bit longer

and that can last longer as well.

Yeah, yeah. So, samphire, have you had samphire before?

-I love samphire.

-Can I ask why you had it in the ice?

I was interested to hear it was protein.

-It is to stop it cooking?

-Yeah, basically it's just been blanched

and to stop it cooking and it keeps it nice and green.

I didn't realise you'd just cooked it.

I just dropped it into a little bit of salted water and blanched it.

It takes the edge off it.

-There's parts of it that can be quite woody.

-Yeah.

Into this I'm just putting in some large flat leaf picked parsley.

Then we're just going to...

a little squeeze of lemon juice.

And then I'm just going to take these sardines

and these gem lettuces off.

We're not trying to cook the lettuce all the way through,

we're just trying to give that kind of beautiful charred flavour.

We'll then roughly chop.

That's not going to be wilted and awful now?

No, it's soft around the outside

and still kind of raw in the middle, it still has a bit of crunch to it.

Then we're going to grab these sardines...

We are going to flake them up.

A lot of people worry about the bones in sardines

but the pin bones are so very, very small

and actually, doing it this way means that the bones,

you can kind of pick the bones out completely.

-This just kind of...

-Yes, my mum always has these on toast.

You can flake the sardine from...

If you get them from the fishmonger, Tom, you just ask for them

butterflied and they take the main bone

out of the middle and the head off so you've still got the little bones

but ask for them butterflied and you can eat them straightaway.

The pin bones come out without...

-Well, the pin will stay in, just the backbone comes out.

-OK, right.

What you do is you kind of end up scraping it down.

It looks a little bit like, you know a Tom and Jerry cartoon fish?

That's what you end up with. But it comes off very easily.

The fish just flakes off.

You see, I'm always afraid of doing this kind of thing because

I know I'm going to end up serving it up

and then spending the meal going...

No, honestly, there's not too many.

Because of the nature of the fish as well, the bones are very small.

For an eating point of view, they're

not going to get stuck in your throat or anything like that.

OK, then we're just going to add a little bit of this dressing to it.

And then a pinch of salt, and a pinch of pepper.

Then we're going to serve it. Guys, come on up.

You can have a little taste of this as well.

We're just going to fold it together so the pieces of fish stay

nice and thick.

We're just going to serve it in the bowl, very nice, beautiful

flavours of the samphire that's cold, the hot fish...

-You've been here before!

-..the warm lettuce.

Yeah! He knows where the knives and forks are.

He's been here before! He knows where they are. The forager man.

He'll come straight in, the thing is, he'll come

straight in for the samphire, won't take the fish, that's the thing.

OK, guys, there we go.

Just a very simple, lovely kind of spring-like salad.

Get in there, have a taste, dive in, don't be shy.

I'm going to have a bit of fish for definite.

-You've got to have the fish.

-Yeah.

-Happy?

-Mm!

-Tasty?

Rupert is making extraordinary noises.

Now, in every show we're getting out

and about and visiting some of our favourite chefs on their home turf.

Today we join Jason Atherton in search of some veg

at the market before making a stunning recipe with roasted cod.

Springtime is an amazing time of the year as a chef.

At my restaurant, we just can't wait to get those heavy dishes off

and really lighten it up, and we're completely inspired by the seasons.

And for you guys at home, it's exactly how you should be.

You should get yourself down to the markets just like we do

and be inspired by all those beautiful spring ingredients.

It's the perfect way to cook.

And here we are. We've got some of springtime's best offerings.

We've got the first start of the Jersey Royals

and these are some of the best potatoes on the planet.

But this is what I've really come for. The peas...

..and the broad beans.

These, along with asparagus, are the kings of spring.

Thank you, have a great day. Thank you.

Can I take a bit of your Whitby cod, please?

I'll just take that, if that's OK. Thank you.

So, we've got the goods, let's go and do some cooking.

Here we are, back at the restaurant kitchen,

and the dish I'm going to cook for you today is roasted cod,

beautiful fresh langoustine with peas, broad beans,

golden chanterelles and roasted Morteau sausage.

I'm going to start off with the fish.

Right, nice non-stick pan.

Super crucial when you're cooking nice fish.

Some people put paper parchment in, which is a nice little tip at home.

It does work, but for me, you can't beat a non-stick pan.

In goes a nice bit of olive oil. I never season my fish first.

People always season it, and you've just got to think about it.

If you add salt to any meat, what does it start to do?

It starts to cure, so the minute you add salt to this fish,

it's going to draw the moisture out, so always add the seasoning last.

We're just going to very gently cook it for about two to three minutes,

that's all. Next, the langoustine.

Off we go with his tail, we're going to go straight down his backbone.

Straight through, like that.

You can just see how glossy this is, it's so super fresh.

In, like so.

Straight in.

A little bit more oil.

On to the peas and broad beans.

A little bit more olive oil, into a nice hot pan.

Just a little bit of butter.

We don't want to make it too brown.

In goes the sausage.

Like so.

In goes the chanterelles.

We will lightly saute those, just so we get a little bit of colour,

but not too much.

Just the smell from that Morteau sausage is delicious.

Pork and shellfish is a really good combination of flavours.

I don't know the reason why it works, it just works.

Now, we're going to turn the fish over.

Look at that nice colour. Just going to turn the langoustine over.

We will add a knob of butter to that. In goes the butter.

Now we can add sea salt.

A little bit to help season.

The sausage and the golden chanterelles

are now beautiful and golden.

We add...

..a couple of spoonfuls of our peas and broad beans.

A tablespoon of marjoram, like so.

This is ready.

We're going to take off our langoustine.

Caramelise the fish a little bit more.

Over goes the fish. Just a little bit of lemon juice.

Now, we're ready to plate.

Last, but not least, the pea puree.

When we've shelled the peas, blanch them in a little bit of water.

Refresh them in ice water and then we blend it.

Then just a little bit of creme fraiche, salt and lemon juice.

We will make a little bit of a picture on the plate, like that.

North, east, south, west.

A little bit of creme fraiche mixture.

That will help bind it and just freshen it up a little bit.

That goes into the middle of the plate, like so.

Even though it looks cheffy with your pea puree,

it's not a difficult dish to do.

This is really simple.

On goes that beautiful piece of cod, like that.

Then we put on our lovely langoustine.

We can see these beautiful little bits of monk's beard.

You don't need to do anything to this.

Just get it fresh from your fishmonger.

Just a little bit of olive oil to dress the plate.

And then, as far as I'm concerned,

we've got an excellent spring dish of roasted British cod,

peas, fevs, Morteau sausage,

pea puree, roasted langoustines,

and monk's beard.

The flavours of the sausage, the pea puree, the peas,

the fevs, the marjoram, that beautiful cod...

The combination of flavours are just perfect for this time of year.

You try this at home.

Thank you very much, Mr Atherton. It looked absolutely stunning, that.

A beautiful tip about creme fraiche at the end.

Really nice acidity comes to it.

-Light and gentle.

-Lovely.

OK, so, time for somebody else to cook.

Today it's Mr Bryn Williams. What will you cook for us?

We're going to do a glaze, peas, girolles, mint,

-and with a seared scallop on top.

-OK, a seared scallop on top.

-I'll get cracking with the scallop.

-And then maybe slice the blanched shallot into rounds,

then lemon juice, salt, sugar and olive oil.

What I'm going to do, we have chicken stock here on the boil. Raw peas.

You could use frozen if you wanted to but we're bang in season so we're

going to cook the raw ones.

Cook the raw peas and the mushrooms all together in one pan.

We keep all the flavour going. Chicken stock, peas are in.

A little bit of salt, a little bit of pepper.

We're just going to prep some of these nice beautiful, small girolles.

Girolle mushrooms.

Let's come to Mr Rupert Burdock,

the mushroom man, tell us a little bit about girolles.

-You've got them in front of you.

-I do indeed.

Girolles will be known by everyone else outside the restaurant

-industry as chanterelle. Be careful, though...

-Why is that?

Why is it we call them girolles, you call them chanterelles?

-Cos you're wrong!

-LAUGHTER

Taxi! I'm going home!

There we go. Us chefs, we've got it wrong. The difference between...

You call those gir... chanterelles and as chefs, we call them girolles.

-Exactly.

-But we're wrong.

-We're wrong.

-OK.

Be careful though, because there are some other species,

small, yellow species of mushroom out there, that will kill you.

So make sure you know what you're doing. Make sure you go out maybe with a local forager or

learn in your books, but as long as you give mushrooms a lot of respect, you'll be OK.

They grow in unspoiled woodland, which unfortunately there isn't much

unspoiled woodland left any more, so if you find some unspoiled

woodland, you'll find some chanterelle, most likely there.

They have ridges instead of gills.

When you get into mushrooms, you'll see unlike the classic sort

of pages of a book of a mushroom, they've just got these ridges there. It's a good identification thing.

And also, they smell of apricots, a bit.

-When they're very fresh.

-They do smell like apricots a little bit.

They have a beautiful rich flavour that comes from them as well.

They are probably my favourite mushroom.

This time of year, they're all nice and small, so they go really well with this dish.

-They match the size of the peas.

-Yeah.

You want to try and get the small ones.

The peas have been there for a minute,

just going to cook the girolles in there as well.

So while they're cooking, I've got this semi-whipped cream

and an egg yolk. Once the peas and girolles are cooked,

we're going to take them out, add a little cream to the stock

to make a nice light veloute, you could say.

Then we're going to add mint and egg yolk and cream to the mix.

-So kind of almost making a pea-like custard, I suppose.

-Yeah, it is.

Make sure these get cooked all the way through.

You've got quite a lot going on with the restaurant.

It's probably been quite a while since I've been there.

-Before you owned it, I used to work there.

-You did.

I worked there as a chef...

I was going to say a young chef, but I wasn't young. 1999, I was there.

And since then, you've taken on some changes and own it.

-Tell us what's going on.

-I bought it five years ago.

We just closed for January, a full month, we had a full refurb,

we've added a chef table and a private dining room there.

The chef table's fantastic.

People sit literally in the kitchen, two feet away from the pass.

It's not one of these chef tables where you're a distance away.

You can actually get them to do a little prep work.

Yeah, we get them up to cook their own fish.

They can't complain at the end of the meal, cos they cooked it!

Plate their own desserts up. It's a lot of fun.

And cookbooks, you've got... You've had two out already.

The last one is all about vegetables, recipes like this,

-that are quite vegetable-based.

-Yeah.

For The Love Of Veg. But you're talking about the third book.

I'm edging to the third book

because it's probably easiest to say it's probably specialised.

-Is that the best...?

-If you want to call the Welsh public special, yeah!

It's a Welsh book. All in the Welsh language.

-Cookery book, all in the Welsh language.

-Great. If it's got pictures, we're fine!

-Pictures and numbers, we'll be grand.

-If it's got pictures, I'll be fine as well!

So we're just going to add some of the veloute to the egg yolks,

make sure they start the cooking process off.

-If you want to get the scallop...

-I'll start cooking the scallop.

This is all done, so all nice and warm.

We add the stock to the egg, just going to pour in the peas

and the girolles and the mint. We're just going to lighten up...

You could use creme fraiche again with this.

-We're going to put a little cream in there.

-Creme fraiche works very well.

So you've got the cooking liquor, you've got peas, girolles,

egg yolks...

Yeah.

And then while the scallop is cooking...

You could put this under the grill, if you wanted to.

Cos it's warm, we don't need to. If you're doing it at home, you've prepared it in advance,

you could put it into the bowls and just underneath the grill

and that would heat it up and glaze and cook the egg at the same time.

So it's almost a bit like a savoury custard that you've made.

You could say it's a quiche without the pastry, really.

You glaze it up as well, so it's a lot quicker and easier.

You're getting the fragrance and smells of the mint and the egg.

It's all about keeping those flavours fresh.

Sometimes, when you have a quiche, even though I love a quiche,

it's quite heavy and rich. This is a lighter version, really.

-A quiche without the pastry.

-Yeah, and it's a bit lighter as well.

So in your new book, are there any microwave recipes?

-The only Welsh word that I know is the Welsh word for microwave.

-OK.

-Do you know what it is?

-It's microwave.

-No, it's not.

-Popty ping.

-Oh, I DO know that! I can't believe I've forgotten that!

-Popty ping.

-I was in university in Wales.

-It works.

-The translation works!

-You understand it.

There's a couple of chefs in my kitchen at work,

we call them chef du pings.

Cos if they can get away with it, they stick it in the microwave.

LAUGHTER

-I imagine they don't when you're standing there.

-No.

-We haven't even got one.

-So the mixture's in the pan.

You could put this under the grill, but we're going to use a blowtorch.

It'll cook the egg and glaze it as well.

You get that nice colour to the mixture.

So that warm cream going on to the egg yolk's helped to cook it

and now you're just finishing it off.

Yeah, and I think with a bit of colour on it, it looks a lot more appetising.

-By the time you've cooked the scallop... We're nearly there.

-We are.

I'm just going to add a little butter into it to finish glazing it.

-And a little lemon juice.

-This is a dish, if you did it at home,

you could have it all ready to go.

You just put this under the grill, last minute, cook the scallop.

Doesn't need two chefs to do one plate of food at home.

LAUGHTER

Yeah. Are you scallop fans? Are you a fan of shellfish?

I am a scallop fan.

I've only ever cooked them once and I got

the guy at the fishmonger's to de-shell them for me and everything.

And he said to me the best way to have them is just with bacon

and keeping it simple. And they were for a starter for my friend I hadn't seen for a long time.

When she came round, she announced she was pregnant. I felt really worried.

I've never cooked this shellfish, what if I give you something? But it was fine. She ate them.

They're very simple to cook. The tricky part is opening them.

I opened that, actually, with a blunt old kitchen knife.

You learn as a young commis chef...

Normally, you start with a very sharp knife

and if you're not good at doing it, you cut the scallop in half

-and the head chef's not very happy.

-Or you cut your finger.

So you learn to do it with a blunt knife

and then you're always going to be all right.

So the scallop is cooked. A little lemon juice, pinch of salt.

I'm just going to carve the scallop. Just cut it in half.

-Into mouth-sized pieces, more than anything else.

-Fantastic.

Turn it over.

The good thing about scallop is it's all that one big piece of meat.

Protein, lovely, yeah. Just going to finish off these...

They're like pickled...fresh pickled shallots in a dressing,

which is lemon juice...

Bit of lemon juice, bit of sugar, bit of salt

and a little bit of good English rapeseed oil.

Just to finish off, a few pea shoots to go with the peas.

And finish off with a little bit of rapeseed oil. And that is it.

-That's lovely, guys, come on over and have a taste.

-Quick!

Come and have a taste.

-Racing over.

-We know where these are now.

-A spoon.

-We know what we're doing.

-Come on, Bryn.

-Wow, look at that!

Have a taste of the scallop.

The beautiful sweetness of the scallop with the kind of eggy

-custard is delicious.

-The mushrooms, I'd go for as well.

It's all about the mushrooms,

-the peas, the scallop.

-Oh, wow!

-I'll have a bit more of it.

-That's genuinely really springy! Isn't it?

-Thanks very much.

-It's really fresh!

-Well done, Chef.

The flavour of that stock kind of takes on the peas

and the girolles... Sorry, chanterelles.

-You're not wasting the flavour. It all goes into the stock.

-That's it.

OK, so whilst we eat this,

let's take a trip into the BBC's food back catalogue, as we join

the irrepressible Raymond Blanc for a tortellini with roasted nuts

and sage butter.

'In his Oxfordshire kitchen,

'Raymond puts seasonality at the core of his cooking.'

Some more sage. Can you give me some sage? Big sage, not baby sage.

'First, a mushroom tortellini.'

If you can't find the ceps, no problem.

Get nice, big, fat Portobello mushroom. They're fleshy and lovely.

Make sure they are young.

'Raymond is using ceps.

'Also called porcini or penny buns,

'they are prized by mushroom lovers for their earthy flavour.'

Cut them very fine, like that.

You can do that in here as well. It's a bit inelegant for beautiful ceps.

Give them the right treatment, so to speak.

Olive oil. Tres bien.

Now we can go. Make sure it's very hot.

We want to brown them a little bit, not too much, just a bit of colour.

Very, very quick. About three minutes. On strong heat.

Voila.

'Add some finely chopped shallots and a crushed garlic clove.'

Tres bien. Oh!

That is so lovely!

OK. I put a bit of lemon juice to keep them nice and white.

OK. And also to bring out the flavour.

Always taste.

Very nice.

With produce like that, you know, it's heaven for a cook.

The best.

'Now, begin the fresh pasta.'

Give a good clean here. Take that out. Get all that out.

'Raymond is using 200g of flour and two eggs.'

So simple.

OK, tres bien.

80. 183 grams.

So if you give me, instead of 200g, give me 183 grams.

You pinched it out earlier. Sorry, Chef. When you was dropping it.

-Well, if you've seen that, just replace it.

-Yeah, I didn't realise.

OK.

'A food processor makes pasta making very simple.'

I'm not very technical. Never been in my life.

'Pulse the flour and eggs together.'

And then you finish off with the hand. Just a tiny bit of flour.

Very little.

Voila.

What I'm doing here, I'm doing a number of things.

Make the gluten to work out.

Also, I'm pressing in the water, so better absorption by the flour.

And when you eat a good pasta, you have a nice chew,

it's been well worked out.

Pasta like that straightaway, it wouldn't be very good.

So I give it nice body and strength.

'Then, chill the pasta for at least 30 minutes

'before you start to roll it.'

Voila.

Voila. So we've got our first, which is nice.

So I'm going to double joint.

'Pasta can be rolled by hand, but a machine creates a smooth

'and even finish.'

Voila.

Set it down as you go along.

As I'm rolling, I'm starting to stretch the pasta.

-'Roll to a thickness of 1mm.'

-Egg yolk?

Dan, please?

Voila. Tres bien.

'Egg yolk sticks the pasta together.'

And then wrap this side here.

You just seal, OK? Seal in between.

So make sure you don't have air as well inside,

because air will expand and burst your ravioli.

-'Use a pastry cutter to shape the tortellini evenly.'

-It's a

bit more work, but it's quite lovely.

The best way is to press the middle here, bring back the two

and bring it back, press.

OK?

Please, Dan, can you give me a hand, please? So we can tidy up

here before we cook the ravioli. Thank you very much.

So now that my tortellinis are ready, the whole dish comes together.

You need to boil them. It mustn't be a simmering boil.

It must be a galloping boil, full boil,

so the water doesn't seep through the tortellini, into the stuffing.

OK?

'Boiling water cooks the pasta quickly

'and reduces the risk of it bursting.'

Three looks too small, unless it's in a line.

Four looks always wrong, but five works. Somehow, five DOES work.

'Next, a herb butter sauce.'

Just need that much of butter, so that's for one portion.

Starting to colour nicely.

'Add finely chopped chives and sage, with a little water,

'to create an emulsion.'

And a dash of lemon juice, just to sharpen it up.

That's a simple jus, and works so well.

So, very simple little jus.

'Finish with some chopped toasted hazelnuts.'

My God! It's lovely!

Thank you very much, Chef. Absolutely stunning.

-A Frenchman making a great Italian classic.

-I know, yeah!

OK, throughout this series, we're showcasing some real key seasonal

spring ingredients that are at their absolute best at this time of year.

Today, I'm going to be doing a recipe using Douglas fir pine.

I'm going to be making a Douglas fir pine custard with a blood orange

curd and some coconut tuile. And Bryn's going to make them for me. Come on, Bryn.

-You can get on it.

-I'll make the tuiles.

-You make the tuiles. A tuile is essentially...

-A posh biscuit!

So it's going to be coconut, icing sugar, flour,

butter and egg whites, basically mixed together.

And we're going to be using Douglas fir pine in a custard.

This is Douglas fir pine. Tell us about it, Rupert.

What you've got there, Tom, is posh Christmas tree

and what I've got here is ordinary Christmas tree.

You can eat them both. The green shoots at the end are best.

You can cook them like you would rosemary.

-So you can eat the Christmas tree?

-Absolutely. Get it down you.

But only if you have it growing in your back garden,

you've replanted it, you've got the buds.

-So not at the end of Christmas?

-No.

And very important not to eat yew tree,

which looks a bit like that, or you'll probably die.

-How do we check?

-We don't want any death. You need to know which one is a yew tree

and which one is the one you want - Douglas fir pine.

You add "You will probably die" to all your pieces.

That's why there's not many foragers.

It's a dangerous occupation!

Don't mess with me!

Dangerous job number one is foraging.

OK, so what we're actually going to do... It has a beautiful...

-Have you ever eaten pine before?

-No, never.

It has a fantastic, almost citrus-like flavour to it.

It is very citrusy and it's floral and herby, all mixed together.

We're going to make a custard with it and then make it into a fool.

A fool is kind of like a whipped-up custard mix.

These buds look like those little ones that you squeeze

-and they smell of pineapple. You know the ones?

-Yes, pineapple weed.

-Pineapple weed! There you go!

-They're no relation at all.

-Are they not?

-No!

-LAUGHTER

-You're both making this up. There's no such thing!

-There is!

It smells really strongly of pineapple.

-I was just wondering, if I squeezed it...

-It's a Christmas tree.

It's a member of the camomile family, pineapple weed.

-OK.

-No, it smells of nothing.

-That's why it smells so nice.

-Exactly.

So what I've got in here is some cream and milk, equal parts,

I've brought it up to the boil and I've infused it with some

of the Douglas fir pine and then I'm whisking together some egg yolks

and some sugar, just to make a custard.

Bryn is all over making the posh biscuits, the tuiles,

with a little plastic lid that he's cut a hole out of.

He's made the mix. He's just spreading it to make a shape.

We're going to put them into the oven and just bake them

till they go nice and crispy and crunchy on the outside.

And then, we're going to make a blood orange curd.

The same as making like a lemon curd, but just using blood oranges.

Blood oranges, although they clearly don't grow in this country,

they look like something that comes from somewhere hot and warm,

but they are massively in season right now.

Blood oranges are in season right now.

Bryn's going to make a curd with them.

Cream and milk is just coming up to the boil.

-So, the idea, Chris, for Trying Again.

-Yes.

As a co-writer, where did that come from?

Well, we wanted to make a show that was about...

We wanted to make a grown-up romantic comedy, as I said,

and we started to think about the point in a relationship where

people don't know whether they're going to go on with it or not

and we wanted to find... It needed to be about something,

so we thought we'd make it about an affair.

And then we thought, wouldn't it be more interesting if she'd had the affair?

Cos you often see men having affairs in shows, but not so often women.

Once we did that, it all kind of started to fall into place

-quite quickly. If the question you're asking, Tom...

-Yes.

-..is it from real life?

-Yes.

-Not either of our real lives,

but it's very close to stuff that just happens to other people.

I think the idea as well is that you don't have to be some big

villain to have an affair

-and that it can happen to any decent couple at the wrong time.

-Yeah.

-I don't try and bury you alive in it.

-No, you don't.

Which is an option I've tried.

So, did you two know each other before filming, or is it a new

formed relationship and friendship that you have?

-We have a newly formed and based around culinary...

-Food, isn't it?

It's a food-based relationship.

We ate our way round Kendal whilst filming.

-So it was all filmed up in Kendal?

-We did the first couple of weeks on location in Kendal,

then we came down back down here. But Jo and I were the only people

who were constantly having to sort of stay away.

So often, it would just end up with everybody going home...

-Faced with a vending machine in a hotel.

-We'd go out.

-We ate out most nights.

-Every night!

It went like this - you said in make-up in the morning,

-"I'm not doing that again."

-"I'm not eating again. I'm not drinking again."

And four o'clock in the evening, "Where shall we go?"

-Really?

-Every day.

-Every day.

There are some fantastic restaurants up there

and there's one of the greatest chefs in this country based up

there, Simon Rogan. His restaurant is called L'Enclume.

And his restaurant is all based on fantastic British seasonal

ingredients, a lot of which is actually foraged.

-The Lakes is a great area for foraging.

-Fantastic.

Lots of unimproved grasslands where they didn't plant any rye seed

or fertiliser, ever. Just how grassland should be.

-And that's perfect for foraging.

-Perfect for foraging.

Mushrooms and wild plants.

So, then that relationship with food has continued

-and you continue to eat out?

-We continue to eat!

-We meet around eating.

-Continue to eat out every day.

-This is the only publicity we're doing for this show.

-We're only doing food shows! Basically!

But your background of food, I read, Chris,

is a little bit more dodgy, shall we say? Packet chicken noodle soups?

-That is one of my favourite things.

-You didn't!

I love a packet of chicken and noodle soup,

-with an egg dropped in and stirred in at the last minute.

-Oh, I see. You made it your own!

So a basic packet soup and posh it up with an egg.

-Grammar school version.

-As a kid, that was my favourite.

I could eat an entire litre packet...

A litre one of those packets makes. I still can.

With a load of black pepper...

They don't have as much salt in as they used to.

I did try one recently and I was disappointed.

-If I'm honest, I added salt.

-I love it.

Even now, one of my favourite things is chicken ramen,

-Japanese chicken noodle dish. I'm sure it's from them. I love it.

-OK.

So what we've got here, I have made a custard that has been infused

with the Douglas fir pine, so it's taken on this lovely herbal flavour.

And then Bryn is bringing together the curd.

Bryn has got some butter, whole eggs, sugar and the juice

and zest of the blood oranges.

The custard, we leave it to chill.

When it's chilled, it looks a little bit like this.

And this...

Now, this is a piece of kitchen equipment that everybody

should have. It's really good fun. It's a cool thing to do.

And they're not that expensive. This is going to aerate the custard.

Fizzy custard?

-Kind of fizzy custard.

-Sell it to us, Tom!

Don't you worry.

Once you see this, the first thing you'll do is go out and buy one.

It's one of those bits of kitchen equipment... I know you look on cookery shows and think,

"I've got to get one of those," you use it once and put

it in the cupboard underneath the sink and it stays there forever.

But this bit of kitchen equipment isn't that big,

-so there's plenty of room for it to fit under the sink.

-Good point.

OK, so the lid goes on. That is the infused custard.

The lid goes on and into that, we put some compressed air.

-Like cappuccino custard.

-Exactly the same.

So you get, like in coffee shops, the same sort of thing.

What have you got? It's actually a gas canister?

-It is a little gas canister.

-It's such a gadget!

This is such a boy's toy! My brother would love this! And use it once.

-Boys and toys.

-It's nice and cold too.

Putting compressed air into custard, there's nothing better.

Could you use a SodaStream?

Um... Possibly. I'm not entirely sure.

I think you'd probably make a big mess of the machine, yeah.

-I think maybe too many gadgets involved there.

-OK.

And then we just give it a quick shake.

How are those tuiles doing, Bryn?

About a minute, minute and a half, Chef.

About a minute, which is all right. OK.

We're shaking... Putting the air through it. Leave it to the side.

This could sit in the fridge for ages. Thank you very much, Chef.

This is some of the curd that we've made earlier. Exactly the same.

It's like a lemon curd, but just with the blood orange.

Just folding it through.

You can see lovely bits of the zest coming through. Lovely colour.

This is going to go into the bottom of this bowl.

Like that.

And then, we're going to chop a little bit more of this Douglas

fir pine to garnish the top, give a little bit of flavour going through.

-Chris, The Thick Of It, that was a huge success.

-Yeah.

It went quite well.

But it's done, sadly.

Yeah, done, sadly. But then went on to be a movie as well.

Yeah, we made a spin-off called In The Loop,

which sort of stands alone as its own thing with

some of the people in it playing different characters and so on.

But nowadays, we spend quite a lot of time, the same team behind it, in

America making a show called Veep, which is like an American cousin.

Stay there a minute. This is the dangerous bit.

As soon as it comes out, come on up. We're just going to give it...

-Look at that.

-Oh, wow!

-See what you've done there!

-Come on up, guys.

You can have a taste of this.

-It's nice and fluffy. Come and have a taste.

-Wow! Look at that!

-We're going to put that onto the top.

-That's very clever.

Bryn's got the tuiles.

We're going to do a little bit of the grated orange on the top.

And some tuiles we've done earlier, guys.

-Could you use that for mayonnaise?

-You can use it for everything.

Get in there. There's some spoons. Get tasting.

Let me know what you think. There we go, Bryn's taken them out.

Put them onto a rolling pin.

-Shall I try on the tuile?

-Ooh, it's really frothy. That's amazing!

-Really light.

-Wow!

-Happy?

-That's gorgeous!

-You love it. OK.

Well, that's all from us on today's Spring Kitchen.

A big thank you to Bryn Williams, Rupert Burdock, Jo Joyner

and Chris Addison, and of course, the amazing Jason Atherton.

All of today's recipes are on the website.

Please go to bbc.co.uk/springkitchen.

Thank you all very much for watching.

See you next time. Bye-bye.