Episode 8 Spring Kitchen with Tom Kerridge


Episode 8

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It's spring, and it's a glorious season for food.

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To celebrate, we're laying on a feast of seasonal ingredients

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and recipes for you to enjoy.

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Welcome to Spring Kitchen.

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Hello and welcome.

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Now some of Britain's best produce is coming out right now

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and for fresh ideas on how to use it, look no further.

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We're visiting Rachel Khoo in east London.

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She's off to the butchers for some meat before making

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a delicious buttermilk-marinated lamb dish.

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Plus, we take a peek into the BBC food archive

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and as it's May Day today, we join a young Rick Stein

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in Padstow for some traditional Cornish May Day celebrations

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and some tasty local seafood.

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Now, joining me in the studio is a great friend of mine who is the

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talent behind Cambridge's double- Michelin- starred Midsummer House.

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It's Daniel Clifford.

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And also joining us is a special Spring Kitchen expert

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to tell us about the wonderful produce

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available at this time of year.

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-It's our in-house farmer, Dave Finkle. Hello to you too.

-Hello.

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-How are we doing?

-Really good.

-Springtime happy as a chef, Daniel?

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It's the best time of year to be a chef.

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All the green things start coming through.

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Things are popping through the ground. It's beautiful.

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-It's time to use it.

-Inspirational?

-Oh, yes.

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-Busy time for you, Dave?

-Absolutely. Harvesting the spring greens

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-and we start sowing the crops ready for the summer and autumn.

-OK.

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Now our guest today is a national treasure

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and a familiar face from Albert Square.

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-It's Patsy Palmer. Hello, Patsy.

-APPLAUSE

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-And you are a massive foodie. A huge foodie.

-I love food.

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-You love food and cooking food.

-Yes, I love cooking food.

-Brilliant.

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OK, so Daniel is going to be cooking some stuff.

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-What have you got for us?

-I have got a lovely roast lobster dish.

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I'll roast it in butter. It's served with an orange and mango salad.

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It's served warm. It's perfect for this time of year.

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Absolutely delicious. Very light, very spring, very seasonal.

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Sounds great, doesn't it? And then later on,

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I am going to be doing a recipe with a great seasonal ingredient.

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It's rhubarb. I'm going to be making a custard

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and rhubarb tart with some sweet pastry and marmalade glaze.

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I'm going to finish it off with some clotted cream. OK.

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So for my first dish, I'm going to be using asparagus.

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Dave, you're going to tell us a bit about that in a minute.

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Patsy, do you want to come with me?

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-We are going to do a bit of cooking and a bit of chatting.

-Lovely.

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-Thank you.

-Sit yourself down there. Now, ham, egg and chips.

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-A fan of harm, egg and chips?

-Yes.

-That's all right, then.

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We are onto a winner. We're starting off with ham, egg and chips.

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We will start by using some potatoes and I'm just going to blanch them.

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Kind of more like shoestring fries. Very easy, very simple.

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Potatoes, Dave, this time of year. Good or bad or indifferent?

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Where are we at in the potato season?

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Well, this time of year, you are using the potatoes that have

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been stored in great big temperature-controlled storehouses

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and the potatoes this time of year that have

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-come out of storage are really good for making chips.

-OK.

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So the sugars in them... cos, this time of year,

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new potatoes are coming through, so things like Jersey Royals

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and that sweetness in the new potatoes coming through

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but when they store, that sugar begins to turn to starch...

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-That's right.

-..which in turn helps to make a crispy chip.

-Indeed.

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-Brilliant.

-We were just talking about potatoes that you were

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talking about on telly on Saturday. Heritage potatoes.

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Because I had to rewind it.

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I was watching it on Saturday kitchen and then we were like,

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"What potatoes is talking about?"

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People don't really know where to get them.

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Because when I watched it, it wasn't

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kind of clear where you would get those potatoes.

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-The heritage potatoes?

-Yes.

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Explain the term of heritage potatoes for us, Dave.

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Heritage potatoes, it's referring to some real old-fashioned

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varieties that were out there.

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They are farmed in traditional methods, traditional ways,

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and they are very, very narrow on seasons. But they are very unique.

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Some are brilliant for baking, some are brilliant for boiling,

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and there are one or two that you can use them for literally anything.

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-But they are good old-fashioned varieties that are coming back.

-OK.

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-Where would the public buy these?

-Heritage website themselves.

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You can actually go on their website and you can actually order

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these potatoes direct and they are really worth a go.

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-Thank you, because that is what I wanted to know.

-There you go.

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So you can order them.

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Now, this love of food, where does it actually come from, Patsy?

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-Is it from the family or...

-Probably just having kids, mainly.

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My mum really just cooked...

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We lived in East London, Bethnal Green, so I know it sounds a bit...

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East London... but we were big pie and mash fans,

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-obviously, because we had three pie and mash shops in...

-Jellied eels?

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-I didn't like them.

-You don't like jellied eels?

-My mum was a real...

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We used to go every day to Bethnal Green.

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She'd go in the butchers, then they would get

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fruit and veg off the stalls down there so it was kind of,

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I suppose, in a way, better than when all the supermarkets started...

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-Instead of it being prepacked, you still had to cook with it.

-Yes.

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My mum was kind of basic, you know...

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Meat, vegetables, potatoes...

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But still fresh produce from the marketplace.

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And we always sat down and ate food at the table, you know,

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-so eating was quite a nice thing to do.

-So a family kind of thing.

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Now, your husband is a bit of a chef, I understand.

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-Is he a keen cook? Is that right?

-Well, we enjoy cooking.

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We do it together so we really enjoy it.

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Yes, he is much more of a ham, egg and chips, steak, chips

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and tomatoes kind of and we make, for the kids,

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chicken with matzo meal

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and trying to find recipes for the kids that are bit healthier than...

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I mean, I don't buy anything that is prepacked, anyway,

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myself so we just cook everything.

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But lately, I have been trying to eat food that is alkaline

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so I have been really interested in all that.

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-So I have been eating a lot about that lately.

-Alkaline-based foods.

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Do we know much about that, Dave the farmer?

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Yes, basically, most acidic foods will grow on clay soils,

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so if you think about, sort of,

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fibrous root plants such as your leaves, your salads,

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they actually grow on peats and composts

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so they are more of an alkali.

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So, I am reading a lot about, you know, body and disease

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in the body and things like that, and it says that alkaline is

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a much better state for your body to be in, mainly, rather than acidic.

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-Is that right?

-That's very true.

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-Yes.

-So that's what I'm kind of interested in, really.

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OK. What I have got in here is asparagus. Asparagus is beautiful.

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Right in season right now and what I have done is I've just peeled it,

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taken off the woody ends. Asparagus, quite thick.

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It has got a very woody end at the bottom

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and you can just... where it snaps, you get rid of that

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and that's the bit you can cook.

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Dave, what can you tell us about the super asparagus that's around now?

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It is bang in season. It's beautiful stuff.

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British asparagus, it's the best in the world.

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Because of our appetite for asparagus,

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we now import over 6 1/2 million kilograms of asparagus

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from Peru as a result of our appetite for asparagus.

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All the villages on the outskirts of Peru, their natural water

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supplies are drying out because of all the irrigation systems.

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Not many people realise our appetite actually has that negative

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effect on other countries.

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So we definitely need to be using asparagus when it's in season,

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right now, from England.

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From my point of view, the best asparagus comes

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from the Evesham way which is near...

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Somewhere in the West Midlands or near there, yes.

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I've just cracked an egg and the egg has broken.

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It's not good enough to serve with a two-Michelin-starred chef there.

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I'll start that again.

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And then Daniel can tell us about where his favourite asparagus is

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because we do have a little bit of a...

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I believe it comes from Evesham.

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Daniel is going to tell you it comes from, where?

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I think it comes best from Cambridgeshire. I really do.

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I've got a guy that grows it specially for me

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and his fields have been there 20 years.

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And every year it pops up

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and it's the nicest thing in the world to cook.

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The beautiful thing about asparagus, you don't need to do anything to it.

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It just needs to be cooked very quickly,

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-served hot and it's beautiful.

-Very, very simply.

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We're just cooking it here in a little bit of water,

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a little bit of butter and a little bit... this is a beautiful ham.

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We're just going to put it into this pan with the asparagus.

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It is just kind of wilting down and the juices from the asparagus

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will begin to come out and start going into the ham

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and the ham juices will then begin to mix with the asparagus

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and this ham is a Wiltshire cured ham, which is like one

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of the most traditional English kind of old school hams.

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It's been in brine for about four or five days

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and then it's been gently poached until it's cooked,

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and these chips here,

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these are kind of like shoestring fries, I suppose.

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They have just been sliced, blanched, salted water

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and we'll put them into a fryer.

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-Into a fryer at about 180 degrees.

-How did you slice those chips?

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-With what? How did you just slice those chips?

-I did them on this.

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Now this takes years and years of training.

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I've been a chef for 20 years.

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Daniel's been a chef for about the same amount of time

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although he does look a lot older than me.

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LAUGHTER

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-I spend a lot more time in my kitchen!

-That's very true!

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That you have to mind yourr fingers so it's very sharp

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and you just have to very gently put your hand through it.

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The amount of times that I'm sure me and Daniel have had numerous

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injuries so you have just got to go careful with that.

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Now, there is a massive,

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massive storyline going on in East Enders at the minute.

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-Is that right?

-Yes.

-What's happening?

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Well, the young girl, Lucy Beale, has been murdered and, yes...

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So we will just have to wait

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and see... who the murderer is going to be.

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It's not very jolly, is it?

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Yes, it's a great storyline(!) A young girl has just been murdered.

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Do you actually, as a cast, do you actually know who the murderer is?

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No, no. They won't...

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I'm sure they know but... I'm sure

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if they needed to change it, they probably could change it.

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I'm sure they've got various ideas of who the murderer is going to be

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but I think it's going to be quite a long drawn-out process

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so I'm sure Dominic has got many suspects, knowing Dominic.

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They are going to film many different endings.

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So even if I kept pressing you to who the murderer is,

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-you have absolutely no idea.

-No, I have no idea and that's the truth.

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You have no idea. OK. Then I won't keep asking.

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I have guesses myself.

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Everybody is just like,

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"Oh, maybe it's this one, maybe it's that one," but...

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So are you all talking about it on set?

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You are all wondering, like the rest of the country, who the murderer is?

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Yes, occasionally we might say, "Oh, it's definitely got to be her,"

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but then I watch scenes with people and think they're not acting

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kind of suspicious, are they, so if you had just murdered someone...

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So it's just blows my theories out of the window.

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I will be watching someone and thinking, "Maybe it was her,"

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and then I said, "well, you are not acting very suspicious,"

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and she says, "Well, I don't know if I am or not," so...

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And there is a bit of the storyline going on with your mum as well,

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-isn't there?

-Yes. My mum in the show has breast cancer

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so we are playing out that storyline at the minute which is really,

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really important and we've had such great response from families,

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you know, ladies that have had it and families that have had to, um...

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you know, have the genetic testing done

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because, obviously, with the type of cancer that Carol

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in EastEnders has got, it is

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a genetic type that then impacts on Sonia, who plays my sister,

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that she has the gene,

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but Bianca doesn't have the gene...

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-And it's on this evening at 7:30.

-So it's really sad.

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It's really humbling.

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It obviously makes you realise every day how

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lucky we are, you know, that we are only acting it and trying to help.

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I think the BBC always does that really well, actually.

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-If there is an issue...

-Cover those storylines?

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Yes, and we have had great response, you know, always from ladies that

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unfortunately have breast cancer or who have survived it and how

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responsible they think EastEnders are being

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and how brilliantly they're writing it and they feel, you know,

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and sisters and daughters,

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saying how they went through exactly the same thing so..

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Kind of shows that a drama can be a force for the good.

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-Yes, definitely.

-OK. So, while we've done that... That was very quick.

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I don't feel like that's, though, when I'm watching this,

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-about my ham, egg and chips, I must say.

-Really?

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-Mine doesn't look like that.

-But how easy was that?

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We've just done a little bit of ham,

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poached in a bit of water and butter.

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The asparagus cooked in the same stock, fried an egg,

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-done a few chips, but of chopped parsley, dead easy.

-Lovely.

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Looks a lot healthier, doesn't it, with the chips like that, actually.

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Very small chips, nice and light and clean. Some knives and forks.

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But it is one of those dinners, when you're starving,

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-and you just think, "What can I do?" And there is no time.

-That's it.

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-It's such a perfect...

-Have a taste.

-The kids love it.

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-My kids love ham, egg and chips.

-Ladies first.

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-Crack that egg yolk open.

-Thank you.

-Use it as a bit of a sauce.

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-Thank you very much.

-It looks really nice.

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-Not an easy one to eat and live telly!

-Don't worry.

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Everyone will watch Daniel. Daniel, you take a bit. Take the heat away.

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OK, boss. I'm going straight for the egg.

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-The beautiful thing about this is you don't see ham like that.

-Now.

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Great ham, find it from your butcher.

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This is actually from my butcher based in Wiltshire

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-so it's a double Wiltshire ham.

-Oh, my God.

-There we are, look.

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-Mmm...

-Happy?

-Really beautiful.

-Great, that is brilliant.

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OK, in every show, we're getting out

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and about, visiting some of our favourite chefs on their home turf.

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Today we join Rachel Khoo in search of some lamb to

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marinate in buttermilk and she serves it with a toasted buckwheat salad.

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Spring brings a fresh new life to the kitchen with winter warmer soups

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and heavy stews out and fresh, vibrant ingredients in.

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I've got plenty of ideas, but first I need to buy a few ingredients.

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-Hi.

-Hi, are you all right?

-Good. Yourself?

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OK, I would like a leg of lamb. Just the top bit up to the string.

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-Perfect. Thank you very much.

-You are very welcome.

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So from my spring recipe, I'm thinking of slow-roasted lamb

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with some fresh herbs, some crunchy buckwheat and a lovely yoghurt sauce.

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-Enjoy your leg of lamb.

-Thank you. Bye.

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Thank you very much. Bye-bye.

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So, I've got a lovely leg of lamb here.

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Some buckwheat, fresh herbs,

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so there is mint and parsley and some buttermilk.

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To start off, really simple,

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we just need to marinate my leg of lamb in some buttermilk.

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So I've got a resealable bag. You couldn't get much easier than this.

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You just want to put the leg of lamb in there with the buttermilk.

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Zip it up, give it a little bit of massage,

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and then that goes in the fridge for at least 24 hours or

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even 48 hours so it's nice and tender.

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This one has been in the fridge for 24 hours.

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And I'm going to put it in a pot which can go in the oven.

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In that goes.

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Make sure you squeeze out the remains of the buttermilk

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because that is going to form some of the sauce.

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I am just going to season it with plenty of salt and pepper.

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A little bit of water so the lamb doesn't dry out.

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Put the lid on and in the oven it goes.

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So the lamb goes in the oven at 160 degrees for about 3 1/2 hours.

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You want a nice slow cooking so the meat becomes nice and tender,

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and you need to baste it every hour or so.

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While the lamb is finishing off, I'm going to make my buckwheat.

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I'm simply going to toast it.

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Now, the reason why I am toasting the buckwheat is just to bring out

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that nuttiness. Lovely, hazelnut, almondy flavour.

0:17:240:17:28

It makes a lovely alternative to pasta or rice

0:17:280:17:31

and you can find it in health food shops.

0:17:310:17:33

It doesn't take that long to toast your buckwheat.

0:17:370:17:40

You can actually smell when it becomes nice and toasty.

0:17:400:17:42

I'm going to put it straight into my serving dish.

0:17:420:17:45

And I'm going to dress it with a little bit of lemon juice,

0:17:490:17:53

olive oil and some fresh herbs, so I have got parsley and mint.

0:17:530:17:57

Mint goes particularly well with lamb, bit of a classic flavour.

0:17:580:18:02

And that's my toasted buckwheat and herb salad.

0:18:040:18:06

The lamb is smelling delicious.

0:18:060:18:08

Wow! The lamb is done.

0:18:140:18:15

It's important to let your lamb rest, keep it nice and tender.

0:18:160:18:20

So you have to do this quickly.

0:18:200:18:22

Cover it with some aluminium foil.

0:18:250:18:27

The last thing I need to make is the yoghurt sauce, which is very easy.

0:18:280:18:32

It's just a bit of plain yoghurt,

0:18:320:18:35

some salt, a pinch of sugar,

0:18:350:18:38

zest half a lemon...

0:18:380:18:40

..and then juice of half a lemon, too.

0:18:420:18:45

A red onion, which I will finely chop.

0:18:480:18:50

Stir that all together.

0:18:520:18:54

The yoghurt sauce is done.

0:18:540:18:56

So is the buckwheat salad.

0:18:570:18:59

Just need to flake off the meat.

0:18:590:19:01

You can see it's already starting to fall off the bone.

0:19:030:19:07

That is the best thing about slow cooking.

0:19:080:19:10

You can see how juicy the meat is as well, all that buttermilk.

0:19:100:19:15

No dry roasted lamb here.

0:19:150:19:17

Just put that on my...plate.

0:19:170:19:21

Heap it on.

0:19:230:19:25

You don't need to be too fancy with your presentation.

0:19:250:19:27

This is like, everybody can get stuck in.

0:19:290:19:32

A bit of sauce on top.

0:19:320:19:34

And finish off with a bit of spring green colour.

0:19:380:19:43

Scatter them on top.

0:19:450:19:46

And don't forget those amazing juices in the pan.

0:19:480:19:52

And there you have it,

0:19:570:19:59

my slow-cooked buttermilk lamb with toasted buckwheat and herb salad,

0:19:590:20:03

lovely gravy and a yoghurt dressing.

0:20:030:20:07

Perfect for sharing.

0:20:070:20:08

-Thank you, Rachel, that looked incredible.

-Beautiful.

0:20:110:20:14

Beautiful spring lamb, really nice and fresh - delicious.

0:20:140:20:17

OK, it is time for Daniel Clifford to cook. What are you making?

0:20:170:20:22

Roast lobster in butter with a mango and apple salad...

0:20:220:20:25

Mango and orange salad. It's really simple.

0:20:250:20:28

Loads of ingredients, make a lovely salad,

0:20:280:20:31

-and we start to roast the lobster.

-Let's get cracking.

0:20:310:20:33

I will break this down quickly.

0:20:330:20:35

Patsy is still pushing on with her starter of ham, egg and chips.

0:20:350:20:38

I wouldn't like to waste it.

0:20:380:20:40

-Your next course is lobster, OK.

-Thanks, that's lovely. Perfect.

0:20:400:20:44

And we have dessert coming up later.

0:20:440:20:47

-I'm off the diet today.

-You won't have to cook the kids' tea later.

0:20:470:20:51

They're not getting any. I don't cook for them. I let them starve!

0:20:510:20:56

Pick up a takeaway on the way home.

0:20:560:20:58

Talk us through what you're doing.

0:20:580:21:00

Basically, the lobster claws have been blanched for three minutes

0:21:000:21:04

and the tail gets blanched for two.

0:21:040:21:06

I'm taking the lobster out of the bone.

0:21:060:21:08

Always be careful with the knife. You've been a chef for nearly 40 or 50 years...

0:21:110:21:17

Thank you!

0:21:170:21:18

But for people at home, be careful. Use the back of the knife.

0:21:180:21:23

Back of the knife,

0:21:230:21:25

and just take your time.

0:21:250:21:27

This is an expensive ingredient

0:21:270:21:30

and you should treat it with respect.

0:21:300:21:32

-Where has this lobster come from?

-Same thing about the asparagus.

0:21:320:21:35

I try and use everything locally. This is from Norfolk.

0:21:350:21:38

They come from the sand beds.

0:21:380:21:39

I've got a really special fisherman up there

0:21:390:21:41

that I've known for 15 years.

0:21:410:21:44

When they come into season, he rings me up and I say,

0:21:440:21:47

"Right, let's start to cook the lobster."

0:21:470:21:49

If you work with people you know and trust,

0:21:490:21:51

you will get the best ingredients

0:21:510:21:54

that I can physically get my hands on.

0:21:540:21:56

A lot of your work as a chef is done on the phone

0:21:560:21:58

talking to people to try to get the best stuff.

0:21:580:22:01

-It makes cooking easy.

-This is a native British lobster.

0:22:010:22:06

You can get lobster all year round, but a lot of it

0:22:060:22:08

is actually imported Canadian lobster.

0:22:080:22:10

Yeah, and the problem with them

0:22:100:22:12

is they start eating themselves in the travelling.

0:22:120:22:14

So you'll get the lobster, it'll be a 550g lobster,

0:22:140:22:17

but it won't be that, it'll be 350,

0:22:170:22:19

because it will have started to deteriorate in its own shell.

0:22:190:22:22

So you are using the best British ones you can find.

0:22:220:22:24

I don't see the point in using something from Canada

0:22:240:22:27

when we've got brilliant produce in this country.

0:22:270:22:29

-How long is the season for lobster?

-The season starts in spring

0:22:290:22:33

and for me it finishes late August, early September.

0:22:330:22:37

So it's a fairly long season.

0:22:370:22:39

-That's it.

-OK.

-But it's a special treat, isn't it?

0:22:390:22:44

For me, a lobster is something,

0:22:440:22:46

if you go to the seaside,

0:22:460:22:48

pick yourself a lobster up and give it a go.

0:22:480:22:51

-It's a beautiful dish.

-OK.

0:22:510:22:53

-You're doing the crystallised orange.

-Yeah.

0:22:530:22:58

You're blanching that three times

0:22:580:23:00

and then caramelise it quickly in sugar.

0:23:000:23:02

We've got some sliced mango

0:23:020:23:04

and I'm going to start preparing the salad.

0:23:040:23:06

Midsummer House is going from strength to strength.

0:23:060:23:10

Cambridge's only two-Michelin-star restaurant.

0:23:100:23:13

-There's only 20 in the country.

-We're very lucky.

0:23:130:23:16

And you've been there for how many years?

0:23:160:23:19

-15 years I've had it. It's gone so quick.

-Yeah.

0:23:190:23:24

What's nice about it is when we came to Cambridge

0:23:240:23:26

there wasn't much locally in the area.

0:23:260:23:29

We've built on that reputation.

0:23:290:23:31

We've got better suppliers coming to the area, better produce.

0:23:310:23:34

It makes the restaurant interesting and enjoyable.

0:23:340:23:39

The nice thing is, now you can go from region to region

0:23:390:23:42

and you've got two-star restaurants,

0:23:420:23:44

and they're all offering something very different.

0:23:440:23:47

For the salad, I've got frisee, mache leaves,

0:23:470:23:51

some watercress, some rocket, and some dandelion leaves.

0:23:510:23:56

-These basically give it a bit of bitterness.

-Dandelion leaves.

0:23:560:24:00

These aren't dandelion leaves you pick from out in a field, are they?

0:24:000:24:03

These are cultivated dandelion leaves?

0:24:030:24:06

Yeah, believe it or not, we are farming weeds.

0:24:060:24:10

But they are cultivated versions.

0:24:100:24:13

So as they don't become too bitter, we cover them over,

0:24:130:24:17

so they are growing in the dark, which keeps them slightly paler.

0:24:170:24:21

They've got that unique flavour you can't get from anything else.

0:24:210:24:24

-Absolutely.

-Like white asparagus, hiding it from the sunlight keeps it light.

-That's it.

0:24:240:24:31

Also, I've got some nasturtium leaves.

0:24:310:24:35

I haven't told you this one before,

0:24:350:24:37

but when it was our birthday, I came to the Hand and Flowers,

0:24:370:24:41

you had them growing in the garden and I thought, "I love that idea."

0:24:410:24:45

They are so easy to grow.

0:24:450:24:47

They are so easy. I know nasturtium leaves are very easy to grow,

0:24:470:24:51

because I grow them, so they must be very easy.

0:24:510:24:53

Is that right, Dave? Stick them in the ground, water them,

0:24:530:24:57

pick them, put them through the salad, delicious.

0:24:570:24:59

-They are bullet-proof.

-Yeah, even chefs can grow nasturtiums!

0:24:590:25:03

If you and me can, everyone can.

0:25:030:25:05

You've got the orange peel going, the salad is mixed.

0:25:050:25:09

I'm going to quickly take the skin of this orange.

0:25:090:25:12

I have blanched this peel three times in boiling water.

0:25:120:25:19

That takes away a bit of the bitterness from the orange,

0:25:190:25:22

which means you can actually use it without it feeling

0:25:220:25:26

that you have to confit it to much, or cook it too much.

0:25:260:25:29

That's right. I still want

0:25:290:25:32

a slight bit of bitterness to cut through the salad

0:25:320:25:34

but I want the sweetness from the sugar

0:25:340:25:36

you are going to caramelise it with.

0:25:360:25:40

That will give another texture in the salad.

0:25:400:25:42

-I am kind of making an orange marmalade.

-That's it.

0:25:420:25:48

This is actually a kind of French...

0:25:490:25:52

The French use orange in cooking a lot, in braises

0:25:520:25:55

and especially in a lot of Provencal dishes, fish dishes.

0:25:550:25:58

This dish, as you can see, we've got crystallised skin,

0:25:580:26:02

the orange segments in the salad.

0:26:020:26:05

I'm going to use the rest of the orange to make the vinaigrette.

0:26:050:26:08

All I'm doing there is I've got the orange juice,

0:26:080:26:11

-I've got the vinegar, and I'm going to add some salt.

-OK.

0:26:110:26:14

I'm putting the salt in now before I add the vinegar.

0:26:140:26:19

We're going to start cooking the lobster.

0:26:190:26:22

How are we going to cook the lobster?

0:26:220:26:24

It's going to go in a nice bit of butter,

0:26:240:26:26

because I am going to poach it.

0:26:260:26:27

Put the salt in with the vinegar and orange juice,

0:26:270:26:31

because that melts in quickly.

0:26:310:26:33

If you add the oil, the salt won't mix in.

0:26:330:26:37

We've got a lovely vinaigrette there. That's done.

0:26:370:26:41

Very simple vinaigrette, that.

0:26:410:26:43

LAUGHTER You guys make this look so simple.

0:26:430:26:46

Yeah. Exactly.

0:26:460:26:47

I'm not sure about that. We've been doing this a long time.

0:26:470:26:50

Between us, we've probably been cooking well over 40 years, I'd say.

0:26:500:26:54

Yeah. It feels longer!

0:26:540:26:57

Are you a fan of lobster, Patsy?

0:26:570:27:00

I like it. I don't cook it myself. I'm probably a bit scared to

0:27:000:27:04

because I would not know how to do it.

0:27:040:27:06

I would order it at a restaurant, but not cook it myself.

0:27:060:27:11

-You are a big fish fan?

-Yeah, I am.

0:27:110:27:13

That diet you are working with...

0:27:130:27:18

The trouble is, with alkaline eating,

0:27:180:27:20

they say that fish and meat is not alkaline, is it?

0:27:200:27:25

But I am a big fish and meat fan,

0:27:250:27:29

so it is quite hard for me to be vegetarian.

0:27:290:27:32

-Moderation is the word.

-Exactly. Of course. Just what you enjoy...

0:27:320:27:36

The lobster, I've got the butter to foaming

0:27:360:27:39

and I'm trying to put some heat in there and a bit of colour.

0:27:390:27:44

It has been blanched and you are frying it in butter.

0:27:440:27:47

That will give it that richness

0:27:470:27:50

and the beautiful flavour I am looking for.

0:27:500:27:53

-I'm just warming it up and starting to colour it.

-OK.

0:27:530:27:56

I've got this caramelised orange.

0:27:590:28:01

That's it. That goes in the salad as well, chef.

0:28:010:28:04

Mind your fingers, chef.

0:28:090:28:10

That's a little bit hot. Normally, we'd leave it to cool down.

0:28:100:28:14

We've got asbestos fingers.

0:28:140:28:16

That's going to get a good mix.

0:28:160:28:18

The mango in here?

0:28:200:28:22

Pull the lobster out quickly and then put the lobster in.

0:28:220:28:25

So, a nice little ball of salad

0:28:280:28:30

with all the ingredients mixed in really nicely.

0:28:300:28:33

Pick out some of the smaller bits that are missing from the salad.

0:28:330:28:37

We are frying the mango.

0:28:370:28:39

Mango and lobster is quite a traditional, another French thing.

0:28:390:28:43

It's what I grew up with, where I was trained.

0:28:430:28:46

I worked in the UK, but I got to travel as well.

0:28:460:28:50

Working in France, they just work with the ground.

0:28:500:28:54

A little bit of fried mango.

0:28:550:28:58

A bit of caramelised orange zest on there as well.

0:28:580:29:02

-There you go.

-That's amazing, thank you.

0:29:040:29:06

-And you are going to use this as a bit of a dressing.

-Yeah.

0:29:080:29:11

If you want to come over, guys, Daniel will finish plating this up.

0:29:110:29:15

You can have a little taste. Finish off with some lovely cress.

0:29:170:29:21

This is mustard cress, the cheapest stuff you can buy.

0:29:210:29:26

-It looks beautiful.

-Smells divine.

0:29:260:29:28

Patsy, we're going to give you a knife and fork. Dive in, girl.

0:29:280:29:32

-It's like a posh Friday night out, isn't it?

-What a treat!

0:29:320:29:36

-What a treat.

-There you go. All right?

0:29:360:29:38

Patsy, get in there. Dave, you know where the knives and forks are, chief. Help yourself.

0:29:380:29:42

-Patsy, let me know what you think.

-I will do.

0:29:420:29:44

-Just looks fantastic. It does.

-It looks absolutely beautiful.

0:29:460:29:49

Really fresh, really lovely.

0:29:490:29:51

-It is spring on a plate.

-It is spring on a plate.

0:29:510:29:53

Look at that. Dave, you're a happy man.

0:29:570:29:59

You're a happy girl, Patsy? Just nod. That's fine.

0:29:590:30:03

OK, all right.

0:30:040:30:06

Whilst Patsy eats this, we're going to take a trip into the BBC's food back catalogue.

0:30:060:30:10

This one goes way back as we meet a young Rick Stein in Padstow

0:30:100:30:14

for some traditional Cornish May Day celebrations.

0:30:140:30:17

ACCORDIONS AND DRUMMING

0:30:200:30:23

May Day in Padstow. It's a pagan festival that goes back

0:30:280:30:32

for so long that nobody really knows where it came from.

0:30:320:30:35

Some say it came from Africa.

0:30:350:30:38

Others have said they've seen gypsy festivals in Turkey

0:30:380:30:41

with an 'obby 'oss in it.

0:30:410:30:43

It doesn't really matter where it comes from,

0:30:430:30:45

because everybody seems to have a deep-seated instinct

0:30:450:30:48

as to what it's all about.

0:30:480:30:50

Because it's a fertility festival celebrating the coming of summer.

0:30:500:30:55

And the drums are beating out memories of death and decay,

0:31:030:31:06

beating out the devils of winter.

0:31:060:31:08

I'd go anywhere in this world, I'd do anything,

0:31:200:31:22

but I've got to get back to Padstow for May Day.

0:31:220:31:25

There's no question about it.

0:31:250:31:26

Other people in Padstow who don't belong here, weren't born here,

0:31:260:31:30

feel the same way.

0:31:300:31:31

Padstow is a town like everywhere else

0:31:310:31:33

where people have their differences of opinion, have their bickering.

0:31:330:31:37

But on this day, on our day, everybody feels one and all.

0:31:370:31:42

That's what it is all about.

0:31:420:31:44

The drums beat incessantly all day long.

0:31:440:31:48

The 'oss dances off to many watering holes.

0:31:480:31:51

Everybody's very merry, in the merry morning of May.

0:31:510:31:55

This is the best and worst day for doing this salad.

0:31:560:31:59

It's May Day, I've had a few drinks.

0:31:590:32:01

I'll do a Keith Floyd and have a little sim now.

0:32:010:32:05

This lobster is going into this seafood salad.

0:32:050:32:10

It's a special May Day lobster, as you can see.

0:32:100:32:12

I'm not going to bore you by cutting it up now...

0:32:120:32:14

-Is there a party going on in here?

-Oh, Christ.

0:32:140:32:17

-Somebody told me there was a party.

-There is, Marie.

0:32:170:32:20

She works for us. Don't let it show!

0:32:200:32:22

Don't hold it against me!

0:32:220:32:25

Right! Jolly good. There is the lobster.

0:32:250:32:27

I won't show you that, cos takes a while.

0:32:270:32:29

I want to show you the other things that go into the salad.

0:32:290:32:32

This is the sort of salad you can make for 20, 30, 50, 90 people.

0:32:320:32:36

No problem. Everything's made up beforehand,

0:32:360:32:39

which is the one of the occasions

0:32:390:32:41

when "this is one I made earlier" really does count.

0:32:410:32:43

First of all, some nice green salad leaves.

0:32:430:32:47

Into there I fried off some squid,

0:32:470:32:51

which I seasoned well with salt and pepper.

0:32:510:32:54

It's important to fry a lot of the fish, to get lots of flavour in,

0:32:540:32:58

even before you start putting the flavour ingredients in,

0:32:580:33:02

which are also extremely strong.

0:33:020:33:04

It's a Thai salad. Now some monkfish,

0:33:040:33:07

which is always ideal for salads because it's really firm.

0:33:070:33:10

I've fried this off. Now I've copped out a bit,

0:33:100:33:13

but I have had a little bit to drink today,

0:33:130:33:15

so I've just got some ordinary frozen prawns,

0:33:150:33:17

but it's just the thing for a salad. Loads of them.

0:33:170:33:20

Feeling extremely generous.

0:33:200:33:22

Loads of champagne, which somebody else has kindly given me.

0:33:220:33:25

I feel I'm returning the favour on this day.

0:33:250:33:28

You go into everybody's houses all over Padstow. You drop in.

0:33:280:33:33

You may never have been in the house before. Call in.

0:33:330:33:36

Somebody's got a groaning table full of bits and pieces.

0:33:360:33:41

Help yourself, have a drink, drift out into somebody else's house.

0:33:410:33:44

And so I'm returning the favour.

0:33:440:33:47

In on top of all that seafood, loads of freshly chopped coriander.

0:33:470:33:52

Again, this is an excessive dish.

0:33:520:33:53

I'm not worried about quantities one tiny bit.

0:33:530:33:57

I wouldn't know how many this is for.

0:33:580:34:01

I don't know how many people are going to be coming.

0:34:010:34:03

Lemongrass, lemongrass, lemongrass.

0:34:030:34:06

Loads of that. I love it!

0:34:060:34:08

I love Thai flavours.

0:34:080:34:10

Use it far too much. Lime leaves. Again, a really limey...

0:34:100:34:14

-See you, Rick.

-Cheers, bye.

0:34:140:34:16

Lemony, limey flavour. They're called kaffir lime leaves.

0:34:160:34:22

Buy them in any Chinese supermarket now.

0:34:220:34:24

-Rick, are you cooking our lunch?

-I am. You're going to love it.

0:34:240:34:28

I've done this so many times before.

0:34:280:34:30

God! This is my wife.

0:34:300:34:32

I might even give her a kiss.

0:34:320:34:34

Jill. You don't see her very often.

0:34:340:34:38

-Smells good.

-That's Amanda. How are you?

-OK!

0:34:380:34:42

Now some wild garlic,

0:34:420:34:44

which perfumes the woods all round Padstow at this time of year.

0:34:440:34:48

Then we have fish sauce, lemongrass and chilli and a little water.

0:34:480:34:52

Mix that into the salad to give it a nice tangy flavour.

0:34:530:34:58

Salads like this are such a great alternative to barbecues on summery days.

0:34:580:35:03

They look good and it means that I can get stuck into the food

0:35:030:35:06

like everybody else, rather than have to do the cooking.

0:35:060:35:09

Putting lobster into the salad makes it ridiculously expensive.

0:35:130:35:16

But it is May Day, so lobster it has to be.

0:35:160:35:20

You see what I mean? Just look at that.

0:35:220:35:25

It just adds the final finishing, beautiful touch to a wonderful salad.

0:35:250:35:30

This dish is always a winner.

0:35:300:35:33

This time it lasted just five glorious minutes.

0:35:330:35:37

Not enough time, unfortunately, for the poor director,

0:35:370:35:40

who's normally the first in the queue.

0:35:400:35:42

He couldn't get a sniff.

0:35:420:35:44

-Well done. It's spon-donkulous.

-It is, isn't it?

-Oh!

0:35:440:35:47

Thank you very much, Rick, looked amazing.

0:36:040:36:06

May Day in Padstow looks right good fun. Wish I was there.

0:36:060:36:09

OK, I am now going to get on by making a rhubarb tart.

0:36:090:36:12

It's very seasonal. Rhubarb's in right now.

0:36:120:36:14

-You'll make some pastry, I'll crack on with some custard.

-OK, chef.

0:36:140:36:18

So, rhubarb tart, this is kind of a play on...

0:36:180:36:22

-You know those Parisian patisseries?

-Gateaux. Yeah.

0:36:220:36:28

When you see strawberry tarts in a Paris shop that you can't resist

0:36:280:36:32

but when you walk past, would go in and order one, one of those.

0:36:320:36:35

-You know?

-Yeah. I always stop!

0:36:350:36:37

So this is a version of that but using rhubarb.

0:36:370:36:40

Now, Dave, tell us a bit about rhubarb.

0:36:400:36:42

Cos it's almost at its peak at this point, is that right?

0:36:420:36:46

Yeah, for outdoor-grown rhubarb, yes.

0:36:460:36:48

But the interesting thing with rhubarb,

0:36:480:36:50

as you get later into its season,

0:36:500:36:52

because the stems slow down in their growth,

0:36:520:36:54

what happens is they become redder in colour,

0:36:540:36:57

and that actually signifies that there's a high sugar content in there. Makes them a bit sweeter.

0:36:570:37:01

So the redder the rhubarb, the sweeter it is.

0:37:010:37:03

-That's absolutely correct.

-With outdoor rhubarb.

0:37:030:37:06

What about the forced stuff? It's a couple of seasons with rhubarb, isn't there?

0:37:060:37:09

You get forced rhubarb from Yorkshire but it's not until the winter months, is that right?

0:37:090:37:13

Yeah, that's very true. They can force it on with modern cultivated methods.

0:37:130:37:18

But with the outdoor-grown rhubarb you do get a second bout.

0:37:180:37:21

You get a quarter of the yield,

0:37:210:37:23

and that's towards the end of the summer, early autumn.

0:37:230:37:26

OK, now, the one thing I have to ask you - rhubarb, fruit or vegetable?

0:37:260:37:32

-It's a vegetable.

-Rhubarb is a vegetable. There you go.

-Yes.

0:37:320:37:36

And what's the difference between a fruit and vegetable?

0:37:360:37:39

In simple terms, it's generally that they're more savoury in taste.

0:37:390:37:44

Fruits, they're acidic, they come from trees.

0:37:440:37:46

Whereas your savouries, more often they're actually a root crop.

0:37:460:37:50

They come from the ground.

0:37:500:37:52

OK. So there we go, it's a root vegetable.

0:37:520:37:55

Always associated as being something sweet, I think.

0:37:550:37:58

Although you can serve it with... It goes very well with fish.

0:37:580:38:01

So, Daniel, you've made the pastry. Talk me through that.

0:38:010:38:03

The pastry is everything put into the mixer. Giving it a quick mix.

0:38:030:38:08

Add a tiny bit of water and I've put it in the fridge to relax.

0:38:080:38:11

It needs to stay in there for a couple of hours so it relaxes,

0:38:110:38:14

so you roll it out nicely.

0:38:140:38:15

And then we'd have one line like this.

0:38:150:38:18

Here I've got cling film, which I've rolled out on the table three times,

0:38:180:38:22

filled it with flour.

0:38:220:38:24

That goes in the centre there and that goes in the oven at 350.

0:38:240:38:28

-How long do you want that in there for, chef?

-Around about 25 minutes,

0:38:280:38:31

which we haven't quite got,

0:38:310:38:32

-so hopefully you've got one we've already done.

-I have one here.

0:38:320:38:35

OK, so that flour that's in the cling film,

0:38:350:38:37

that's not for a cooking purpose?

0:38:370:38:39

No, it comes out. If you look,

0:38:390:38:40

what happens is the cling film slightly shrinks,

0:38:400:38:43

it forms a mould but it also makes sure that

0:38:430:38:46

the tart case is completely lined perfectly.

0:38:460:38:49

It cooks all the way through so you'll get this crisp tartlet, and that's what we're looking for.

0:38:490:38:53

So it's blind baking it, so instead of using baking beans

0:38:530:38:57

or anything like that, it's actually just doing it for a reason of ease

0:38:570:39:02

because you have the flour there. It's a bit of a cheffy tip.

0:39:020:39:05

You can put it into a plastic container, put it into the cupboard

0:39:050:39:09

and you can keep using it. It'll make your life a lot easier.

0:39:090:39:12

OK, so, the rhubarb, I'll cook the rhubarb very, very briefly.

0:39:120:39:16

So I just poured on some sugar

0:39:160:39:18

cos this rhubarb is quite acidic. Little bit of sugar.

0:39:180:39:21

Then some orange juice.

0:39:210:39:23

And then on top of that I'll put some grenadine.

0:39:230:39:25

Grenadine is great with rhubarb.

0:39:250:39:27

Grenadine has this fantastic, beautiful, sweet flavour

0:39:270:39:30

but a wonderful, amazing colour.

0:39:300:39:33

It gives the rhubarb the beautiful colour you want.

0:39:330:39:35

It does. It's fantastic. And this will go into the oven.

0:39:350:39:38

We're going to slowly just poach this for about five minutes.

0:39:380:39:44

Just until you get...this.

0:39:440:39:48

And you end up with this.

0:39:480:39:50

-And this rhubarb - I'll give it to you, Daniel.

-Thank you.

0:39:500:39:52

It's just been cooked, just softened.

0:39:520:39:54

Daniel will take it out and just drain it

0:39:540:39:57

and we'll slice it into about centimetre pieces.

0:39:570:39:59

Now, the custard here, this is cream and vanilla.

0:39:590:40:03

It's been brought up to the boil and then poured onto whole eggs.

0:40:030:40:06

So this is whole eggs and a little bit of sugar. Not too much.

0:40:060:40:10

Cos I want it to be quite a... Not savoury but not overly sweet.

0:40:100:40:15

I want the acidity of the rhubarb to come back.

0:40:150:40:17

You wouldn't normally use whole eggs, would you?

0:40:170:40:19

In most custard recipes, do not use whole eggs but this one,

0:40:190:40:22

as it's quite rich and I want it to be quite thick.

0:40:220:40:24

And that actual egg flavour in a custard for me is really important.

0:40:240:40:27

So I'll just put it back on to the heat and cook it nice and slow

0:40:270:40:31

and nice and gently.

0:40:310:40:32

Daniel, you have a pop-up restaurant coming up this year? Is that right?

0:40:320:40:36

Yeah, I've got one on Oxford Street, chef.

0:40:360:40:38

It starts on 17th May. I'm there for four days.

0:40:380:40:42

I'm really looking forward to it. You know, coming to London,

0:40:420:40:46

showcasing what we do from Cambridge, it's a lot of fun.

0:40:460:40:48

Yeah, a trip into London is always great.

0:40:480:40:51

And the future of Midsummer House? Are you very happy where you are?

0:40:510:40:55

Oh, I'm very happy where I am.

0:40:550:40:58

It's like, it's taken 15 years to get this far

0:40:580:41:01

and I still believe that we can go a little bit further.

0:41:010:41:04

The business is healthy, I have some brilliant staff working for me.

0:41:040:41:08

You know, I'm happy. I'm the happiest chef you know.

0:41:080:41:11

And more television?

0:41:110:41:12

Great British Menu this year, you're one of the fantastic few chefs

0:41:120:41:16

that have actually won Great British Menu twice - two years in a row.

0:41:160:41:21

You've been to the banquet twice.

0:41:210:41:23

There's only a small number of very select, incredible, fantastic chefs...

0:41:230:41:27

-I think you're one of them.

-Yeah, I am one of them!

0:41:270:41:30

..That has got to the Great British Menu final twice.

0:41:300:41:34

But you went back this year,

0:41:340:41:36

in this season, the one we're seeing right now, as a judge.

0:41:360:41:39

-As a judge.

-How did you find that?

0:41:390:41:41

To be on the other side of the pass, it's unique, but it's also...

0:41:410:41:47

You go down there,

0:41:470:41:48

you've read the brief and you also understand what you would cook.

0:41:480:41:52

And then the chefs start putting dishes up in front of you,

0:41:520:41:54

you stand there scratching your head, you look at it and think,

0:41:540:41:57

"Actually, that's a really clever idea." I judged the main course,

0:41:570:42:00

and James, when he put the main course in front of me,

0:42:000:42:03

I'll be totally honest with you, I knew before I tasted it

0:42:030:42:05

that I loved it and that it was a great plate of food.

0:42:050:42:08

You knew it was a great dish.

0:42:080:42:09

Now, this custard, I've just thickened,

0:42:090:42:12

cooked out till it's thickened and passed it through a sieve.

0:42:120:42:15

You can use this as a creme brulee,

0:42:150:42:16

you could put this straight into some moulds,

0:42:160:42:19

then put the moulds in the fridge and the custard sets up.

0:42:190:42:21

And then what we've done is we've just put it into a piping bag.

0:42:230:42:27

Daniel has used that piping bag to fill this rhubarb tart.

0:42:270:42:31

Which he's done now. The rhubarb goes on to the top.

0:42:310:42:34

-This would be an amazing dish for a Sunday lunch.

-This is beautiful.

0:42:340:42:37

You could do this as a much bigger tart. Could you imagine!

0:42:370:42:40

-Do you want to glaze it, chef, before we get it on there?

-Yes.

0:42:400:42:42

I'm going to glaze it with a bit of the reduction

0:42:420:42:45

from the cooking rhubarb and some marmalade.

0:42:450:42:48

Why marmalade with the rhubarb?

0:42:480:42:50

Cos we've used the orange with the rhubarb and that marmalade

0:42:500:42:53

gives it a nice sweetness and thickness.

0:42:530:42:55

Guys, come on over. Patsy, are you a big fan of rhubarb?

0:42:550:42:58

I'm a big fan of everything you're cooking,

0:42:580:43:00

so whatever it is, I'll eat it.

0:43:000:43:02

It actually feels like we've taken Patsy out for a three-course meal!

0:43:020:43:05

You're amazing! I feel like I want to give you a clap.

0:43:050:43:07

I'm sitting there and I'm going, "Yes, it's amazing!"

0:43:070:43:10

-If she doesn't like orange, we've got problems.

-Yeah!

0:43:100:43:13

Feels like Patsy's been out for a three-course meal

0:43:130:43:15

-and we've interrupted her just by talking to her.

-You're so clever.

0:43:150:43:18

You really feel when you're watching these programmes on telly...

0:43:180:43:22

-Get in there, guys!

-You feel the same as you're sitting in here.

0:43:220:43:24

-So you're doing a good job.

-Look at that. That's beautiful.

0:43:240:43:27

Very nice crunchy pastry and nice custard. Well done, chief.

0:43:270:43:30

That's a four Michelin-star tart, that! I hope you like it.

0:43:300:43:33

THEY LAUGH

0:43:330:43:35

-Bit of clotted cream on the top.

-Wow!

-Rhubarb and clotted cream is beautiful.

0:43:350:43:39

Thanks, mate. Well done, chef. Get in there, have a little taste.

0:43:390:43:42

-Amazing. Thank you so much for all the food.

-It's been a pleasure.

0:43:420:43:46

It's a pleasure, girl. That rhubarb is fantastic.

0:43:460:43:48

You try and keep the acidity to it,

0:43:480:43:50

cuts through the richness of all the custard and the clotted cream

0:43:500:43:53

-and the crunch of the stuff.

-Amazing.

-Brilliant!

0:43:530:43:55

OK, well, that's all from us on Spring Kitchen today.

0:43:550:43:58

A big thank you to Daniel Clifford, Dave Finkle,

0:43:580:44:01

and of course Patsy Palmer and the beautiful Rachel Khoo.

0:44:010:44:03

All of today's recipes are available on the website.

0:44:030:44:06

Please go to bbc.co.uk/springkitchen.

0:44:060:44:10

Thank you all very much for watching and we will see you next time.

0:44:100:44:13

Take care.

0:44:130:44:14

Bye!

0:44:160:44:17

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