Letter K The A to Z of TV Cooking


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We've got some favourite dishes from your favourite TV chefs

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and we're serving them up alphabetically here on the A to Z of TV Cooking.

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Today we're looking at things linked by the letter K,

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and here's just some of what's on the menu.

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A meaty problem solved with Rick Stein's kofta.

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I'm using bamboo skewers here because...well, they're soaked as well...

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because they're slightly rougher than metal skewers

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so the meat tends to stick to them a bit easier.

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There's king prawns from the Saturday Kitchen team...

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And a taste test with kulfi for Anjum Anand.

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It's a bit toffee-like. It's like a toffee crunch type of thing.

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Is that what it is? It's got toffee in it. But there's more!

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First up, it's Nigel Slater getting to grips with a vegetable that many of us won't have cooked with before.

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This K is for kohlrabi.

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It's all too easy to be a little bit dismissive of things we don't know and understand.

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That includes the vegetable world.

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I never knew how to treat kohlrabi.

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I know they're very beautiful vegetables, very unusual to look at,

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but I really didn't know what to do with them.

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I might have even been a little bit rude about them.

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You might not have come across kohlrabi.

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The name literally means cabbage turnip,

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but they're actually more sweet and juicy,

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which makes them perfect to pair with some more familiar fruit and veg

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in a delicious winter coleslaw.

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The pale green kohlrabi looks amazing with these thin slices of white and pink grapefruit.

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If you're not a grapefruit fan you could use a large, tangy orange instead.

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Now a little dressing.

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I need a squeeze of lemon juice, and some salty capers.

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Then also in there just a little bit of olive oil.

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I want this salad to be full of crunch. I want it to invigorate and surprise.

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So I'm just going to put together a simple, luscious topping.

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I'm putting in some little spring onions.

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Very finely sliced.

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I'm going to put a tiny bit of garlic in there as well.

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I only use garlic raw.

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It's very juicy and fresh looking.

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A few slivers of that,

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and then some yoghurt.

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This creamy yoghurt would be great as part of any crunchy salad.

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I'm going to try it with another under-used veg.

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I think I'd seen celeriac sitting around in the greengrocers for years.

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I didn't know what it was.

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There's something very pleasing about the smell of celeriac.

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This is a sort of salad that I'd eat

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when I had a hangover, or maybe if I'd eaten too much the day before.

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Celeriac browns quite quickly when you cut it, so it's worth having a lemon on hand

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just to squeeze over it.

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I think the salad could do with some more fresh parsley.

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It has a really grounding effect on a dish.

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Brings it back to earth.

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I put quite a few things that are either new to me, or...

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..things I don't use very often, so it's something in there that I know really well.

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And that's beetroot.

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Add a little olive oil to the yoghurt mixture,

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toss together with the grated veg, and you're ready to assemble the salad.

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Onto here.

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You know, I do love soothing food with familiar flavours,

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but I also like things that startle and excite.

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It's crisp and it's crunchy, and it's got that sourness to it as well, and it's delicious.

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It's a new, fresh salad, and I love it.

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I spent much too long ignoring our more unusual vegetables.

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This dazzling dish just reminds me of how versatile and full of flavour they are,

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both raw and cooked.

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Kohlrabi and celeriac - give them a chance.

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They might just end up as a regular treat.

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Thanks, Nigel. Certainly worth trying out.

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Now, Rick Stein's another kohlrabi fan,

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but the main K in the recipe he's about to serve up is for kofta,

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a spiced meat dish from Turkey and the Middle East.

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Well, I'm making some lamb koftas.

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The thing I liked about the Ocak was the fact that although it was full of theatre

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with all that smoke and the barbecue charcoal and everything,

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there was nothing unnecessary.

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It was all required for the cooking. It wasn't sort of overdone.

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Anyway, I'm just grating some onion to go in my koftas.

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And garlic, of course, which I'm just crushing.

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I'm using about six cloves here, and now I'm going to roughly chop a handful of flat-leaf parsley

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which I believe features heavily in Turkish food.

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And next some chilli flakes, because they like their koftas a little fiery.

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Then some seasoning of salt and ground black pepper.

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I think it's very important with these koftas to do everything by hand.

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Obviously not the mince.

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You can use a food processor, but I just like the bits,

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I like the hand-chopped bits in it when you come to eat it.

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So you really need to squidge this up nicely, otherwise it won't stick to the skewer.

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I'm just going to take a sort of a slightly smaller than a cricket ball piece

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that I can just mould up into a sort of sausage.

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Roughly, like that.

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I'm using bamboo skewers here because...

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- well, they're soaked as well -

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..because they're slightly rougher than metal skewers, so the meat tends to stick to them a bit easier.

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One of the problems with koftas is the meat actually sliding off the skewer.

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There we are - perfection.

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I've seen people gazing at these kohlrabis in supermarkets,

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and must be thinking, "What on earth is that?"

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Actually, they're missing a real treat.

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In fact, they're not that dissimilar to turnips, or swedes,

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or a member of the cabbage family.

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Great in salads.

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Now, this is a seriously good salad.

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It's sliced kohlrabi, carrots and cumin seeds

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fried in oil for maximum flavour.

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There are certain things that are done in this series that I can really recommend,

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and this is one of them.

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Next, some lemon juice for tartness.

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Salt and pepper.

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And I promise you, this is as good as coleslaw, but much better for you.

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And the perfect companion to a fiery kofta is some cooling mint and yoghurt on the side.

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It's simply chopped garden mint put into a bowl of plain yoghurt

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and seasoned with a bit of salt.

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Back at the Ocak, they add garlic and cucumber, and call it cacik.

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If you think about it, a satay's just another sort of kofta,

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and the flavours change.

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In Morocco you probably have cumin and paprika, and Turkey and beyond

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you've got lots of coriander, lots of cinnamon, mint, that sort of thing.

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A little note here - yoghurt, or yeo-gurt as the Americans and Australians irritatingly call it,

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is a Turkish word, and it means, well...yoghurt.

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Rick threaded his koftas onto skewers, which actually makes me think of kebabs,

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and here's a recipe for a seafood version

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with Tony and Giorgio.

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What are we going to cook? You know what we're doing. Seafood.

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Insalata di riso.

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Have you ever had rice salad?

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I do. My mum make the worst rice salad in the world.

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She even put, um...

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Wurst in there.

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What's Wurst? German sausages. The horrible one.

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Yuck!

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What does it taste like? I don't know. I never eat it.

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I always say, "Oh, no, I don't like rice."

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Right, well, this is different,

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because I want the salad to be a lot wetter.

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Is it? Yeah. OK.

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And we're going to put samphire.

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Samphire? And asparagus.

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Really, I want thin ones, but these are a bit big.

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Could you cut them in half down the middle?

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You blanched those ones, didn't you? I blanched them already.

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You blanched the rice as well. I did.

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It's only long-grain rice. Long-grain rice.

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In this rice salad, George, I want it really moist.

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It comes from the vinaigrette which is a very simple flat parsley,

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chervil chopped,

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plenty of capers, yeah, and chopped gherkin.

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And a normal three-to-one white wine vinegar.

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With...

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With seafood on these skewers. We'll do them on the barbecue.

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I think you need something sharp, a sauce that's sharp,

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so I'm going to make enough sauce to go round the edge of the salad as well.

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I thought you need something sharp to poke your eye so you don't see what you're going to eat.

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Do you like gherkins? Yeah.

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Do you know what a wally is?

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That's what they call me. "Hey, you wally."

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Yeah, we know that, but...have you ever had a wally?

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No. What is it?

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Like the big gherkins. The dill pickles.

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Oh, yeah. The massive one, like that.

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Yeah, yeah. They're very traditional in the fish and chip shop.

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Yes, yes, on the jar. Yeah.

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With those bad eggs as well. Pickled eggs, yeah.

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You've got to have some courage to have one. Have you ever eaten one?

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Are you mad or something?

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OK.

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White wine vinegar. Aceto di vino bianco.

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Yeah.

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How much? Three to one.

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Three to one. What is that? Three to one?

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I'm just about to finish it!

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Three parts oil, one part vinegar.

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That sounds a little bit like I read this one somewhere else.

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I think somebody's...mingling with my recipe.

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Get on with that.

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Salt. Salto.

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Sale.

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Pepperallo. Pepe.

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That's brilliant.

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And...

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Oh! Olive oil. From Devon.

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And I'm going to put a little touch of water in it.

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Should I get you some water? Thank you, darling.

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Where is the Trex?

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HE WHISTLES

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Little bit more.

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That's fine.

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Let's build it, shall we?

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Let's go. George, capers, please.

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Capers. Shake them in for us, mate.

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HE WHISTLES

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I am so glad I get such intelligent jobs in this place.

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See that, look? E bello.

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Right. Riz? Riso.

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How much rice are you putting in there? I don't know. You tell me. It's your recipe.

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You just keep putting it in! I think that's enough, George.

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When you are a good chef, you know what they say, no?

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I wouldn't know.

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I wouldn't know what you're talking about!

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No, of course you wouldn't know what I'm talking about.

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When you are a good chef, it would be same thing to put a thing in your mouth, and touch it.

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You should understand what it tastes like by touching it, you know.

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Really? Yeah. It's not true.

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Right, I think you're done there, George.

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This, you know... I know it's your recipe, but it looks fantastic.

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Thanks very much. Let's plate it.

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Che bello!

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Bellissimo.

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I really, really like it.

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Am I a kitchen godness or what?

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Goddess. Godness.

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Goddess.

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And we're going to finish it with caper berries.

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Here we are!

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Meals on wheels.

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Meals...on...wheels!

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The barbecue might be minging, George, but the fish is nice.

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The fish is gorgeous, man.

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So, we've got scallop...

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piece of monkfish, fresh tiger prawn,

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raw.

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Scallop, monkfish, tiger prawn.

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Finish with the scallop, right? You don't have to keep repeating the same three things all over again.

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I'm shouting in what order they go.

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Yeah, but if you've done it once...

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What is it, scallops?

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Salt, olive oil, pepper.

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You go and get that.

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Salt, olive oil, pepper...

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This is going to be a complete disaster.

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It started like a disaster. It's going to end up like a disaster.

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Pepper.

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You always have to consider the distance from the fire to your food.

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It's very important it's not too close.

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So...

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a touch of olive oil.

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And a touch of olive oil.

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Tony, you're going to set on fire the house, the garden, the whole thing.

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Let's go.

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So this is a barbecue, and the actual fish cooks on the heat coming from the fire,

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but it doesn't touch anything.

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It doesn't touch anything.

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So much better when it's like that. Yeah?

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I think the balloon's gone up. OK, here we are.

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It's uh... Oh.

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It's hail now.

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This is a real barbecue.

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Look at this. Now we got hailstones coming down!

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Fantastic! Let's have a turnover, shall we?

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Ooh, yes! Oh.

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A bit more. Oh, it's gorgeous, actually.

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Beautiful. You hold this.

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Wait a minute to turn them. I'll go and get a nice plate.

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Hold it a minute. Grab the salad, George.

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Yeah.

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Tony, your wife is arrived. Be careful.

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She's looking for the hairdryer. She has to go out!

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She has as well!

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She says, "Where is the hairdryer?"

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Now it's really raining, but for real.

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George, I think it's slowing down.

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That's good. That's good news.

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It's going to be just freezing, and cold and grey.

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It's not going to be raining as well. Ooh!

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That's fantastic.

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One of thing that puzzles me as well is that it rains almost every day in this country.

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Three days, four days in the summer with the sun - water shortage.

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Where the hell does this water went?!

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Where did it went? Who took it all?

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I waited all my life to be able to express myself in front of a couple of millions of people.

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And here I am - look.

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# Volare... #

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Now, I tell you what - joke apart, I'm looking forward to have this barbecue

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because, whatever, but the fish look fantastic.

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Oh, George. This is like delicious. Look.

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Yeah.

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Because then there is another very classical thing that you do -

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you just drop it in the fire, and then you go to the sink,

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wash it, and give it to your mother-in-law.

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Not my mother-in-law, because my mother-in-law is lovely.

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My mother-in-law's lovely.

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Is she? If you're out there, Pam, I haven't dropped your fish.

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That's not what you were saying before when the camera wasn't rolling.

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She's a lovely lady, my mother-in-law.

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Right, what do you reckon, George?

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That looked delicious, chaps. Thank you very much.

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But I've got a question now -

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does a kebab have to be cooked on a skewer?

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Not according to Valentine Warner it doesn't.

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No.

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Venison is a wonderfully versatile meat,

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fantastic in stews and pies, brilliant roasted or simply grilled.

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It also makes one of the best snacks ever.

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First, make a spicy tomato sauce.

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Add olive oil to a hot pan...

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finely dice a red chilli, and fry.

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Add some chopped tomatoes.

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A good squeeze of lemon juice.

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A pinch of salt.

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A teaspoon of sugar.

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Pop in a stick of aromatic cinnamon,

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and a sprinkling of punchy ground cumin.

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Now leave the sauce to bubble away while you get on with the rest of the recipe.

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Cut a piece of venison fillet into small chunks.

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Season with salt and pepper.

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Coat with a dash of olive oil...

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and fry in a hot pan.

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Put the succulent brown venison on warm flatbread.

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Finely slice some crisp, white cabbage.

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Cut a gherkin into thin slices.

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Then pile on thin slivers of red onion.

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Next, spoon over the spicy tomato sauce.

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For extra yumminess, chop a clove of garlic,

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stir into some mayonnaise, and dollop on.

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Finally, top with a couple of sprigs of mint.

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You're now ready to roll up this wonderful parcel of deliciousness

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and tuck in.

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Mm.

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The best kebab ever.

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Mm.

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Thanks, Valentine.

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Now, we've had a few examples of Middle Eastern cooking today, and here's another one -

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it's K for kataifi, and here's Silvana Rowe showing James Martin

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one of many ways to use it.

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Sweet basil and kataifi rubbed prawns with pine nut tarator.

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Now, this is...kataifi?

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This is kataifi, or it's called kunafa in Syria,

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but in Turkey it's called kataifi.

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It's a Middle Eastern, eastern Mediterranean pastry.

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It's like a very finely shredded filo pastry.

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As you can see, I've covered it with a damp cloth.

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You have to keep it under damp cloth, otherwise -

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Filo pastry, cos I've seen a lot of this done with vermicelli sort of noodles as well.

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I do that at the restaurant.

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This is finer. This is a lot, lot finer.

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Very, very crispier in my opinion.

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I marinade the prawns before, actually. Be told, all right?

0:19:190:19:22

But he's from a non-exotic land, you know. Stick with me, stick with me.

0:19:220:19:27

If you want exotic food after Christmas, this is what you want, you know.

0:19:270:19:30

In Ireland we use this for a wake for the old guys.

0:19:300:19:32

Your turn will come, darling.

0:19:330:19:35

Your turn will come.

0:19:360:19:38

Now, peeling the prawns here. Do you want the heads on or off?

0:19:380:19:41

No, please, if you de-vein them, but mind your suit, of course.

0:19:410:19:43

I don't know why you are wearing a suit on this programme.

0:19:430:19:46

Where are your whites, I don't know either, but...

0:19:460:19:48

Are you ready, by the way? What have we got? What's this spice?

0:19:480:19:51

This is... So cumin is going in. Garlic is going in.

0:19:510:19:55

And Tabasco.

0:19:550:19:56

This is just to marinade them because I want to give them some flavour.

0:19:560:19:59

Those are beautiful, delicious fresh prawns.

0:19:590:20:02

You don't have to go for fresh. Frozen still works very well.

0:20:020:20:05

But these are massive. They're massive.

0:20:050:20:08

Very luxurious. Let's cheer ourselves up after Christmas, you know.

0:20:080:20:12

These go in the fridge how long? I would say about three to four hours.

0:20:120:20:16

Overnight is not a big thing either, but no more than that.

0:20:160:20:19

Oh, good. So, what I'm going to do now...

0:20:190:20:21

The bigger the better, the leaves.

0:20:210:20:23

I just like the green shining through like tiny little emerald pieces.

0:20:230:20:27

What I'm going to do now is just get a marinaded prawn.

0:20:270:20:31

Wrap it ever so gently. Now, I'm going to do the wrapping.

0:20:310:20:34

So you wrap these up? Yeah, you wrap them up

0:20:340:20:37

in the strands of the kataifi pastry.

0:20:370:20:39

And then I'm going to push this one down.

0:20:400:20:42

The next one I'll do the same thing.

0:20:420:20:44

Three per portion is really very generous.

0:20:440:20:46

I'd say two would be enough.

0:20:460:20:48

New Year and all that.

0:20:480:20:50

Can I do one? Yes, please. Try, try.

0:20:500:20:53

Right, so you put that... No pressure. So, basil leaf.

0:20:530:20:56

Basil leaf. There. That on top?

0:20:560:20:58

Yeah, yeah. And you wrap that round?

0:20:580:21:00

It's a little bit generous on the pastry side.

0:21:000:21:03

You don't want to stuff people with too much carbs, really, do you?

0:21:030:21:06

This is... OK, so, what I'm going to do now,

0:21:060:21:08

I'm going to put them one by one. I'm holding them with my thongs.

0:21:080:21:12

The temperature, really, don't want it too hot -

0:21:120:21:14

With your what? Tongs. Oh, right.

0:21:140:21:16

There we go again.

0:21:170:21:19

Same old thing.

0:21:190:21:21

When somebody's been 25 years in this country,

0:21:210:21:24

Silvana's accent is still a major source of amusement.

0:21:240:21:27

In fact, I think that's why I'm on this programme, and he denies me a kiss even.

0:21:280:21:31

All right, what else?

0:21:310:21:33

I'm putting the other one in.

0:21:330:21:35

I'm holding it slightly because I don't want it to open up.

0:21:350:21:38

They will look gorgeous. They will look like tiny little hedgehogs, you know.

0:21:380:21:41

So, you never have to use a little bit of egg, or fat, to help -

0:21:410:21:45

No. I'll tell you why. Because the pastry... I tried with egg.

0:21:450:21:50

The pastry gets very massive, like concrete.

0:21:500:21:53

Like covered in concrete.

0:21:530:21:55

I like the freeform. I like it really kind of all over the place.

0:21:550:21:58

So, what happens - Well, wrap it up again.

0:21:580:22:01

Wrap it up again, put it in the freezer. Nice and easy.

0:22:010:22:04

So I'm going to cook it here now.

0:22:040:22:06

Now, this is the garnish, is it? Yeah, this is the garnish.

0:22:060:22:09

Basically, it's a pine nut tarator.

0:22:090:22:11

The original tarator from this neck of the woods is a bit like a tartar sauce,

0:22:110:22:15

but it is the Middle Eastern answer to tartar sauce,

0:22:150:22:18

and it is mayonnaise-free, of course.

0:22:180:22:20

What I'm going to do is put the bread in here.

0:22:200:22:22

Put the water. If you want it richer, you can actually do it with milk.

0:22:230:22:27

You know? So what I'm going to do is just take...

0:22:270:22:30

just the middle of the bread.

0:22:300:22:32

How long do you cook these for, by the way? About three minutes.

0:22:320:22:35

Two or three minutes because they're majorly huge.

0:22:350:22:37

Put it in here.

0:22:380:22:41

What does the bread do for this? Just acts as a bind?

0:22:410:22:43

Nice body, nice bind, and we have a lot of sauces in the Middle East and eastern Mediterranean cooking

0:22:430:22:49

that actually have bread, because it gives this wonderful, silky body.

0:22:490:22:53

Romesco's another one, isn't it?

0:22:530:22:55

Tomatoes and that sort of stuff. Yeah, yeah.

0:22:550:22:57

So, a bit of that.

0:22:570:22:59

Parsley. Yeah. Where is my garlic gone?

0:22:590:23:01

What did you do with my garlic? Sorry.

0:23:010:23:03

OK, the garlic goes in here. Lemon?

0:23:040:23:06

Do you want lemon? Yes, please. Can we squeeze some lemon in?

0:23:060:23:08

It's kind of like... Would it be fair to say their version of a pesto?

0:23:090:23:12

I'd say more tartar.

0:23:120:23:14

I really would go for tartar, and I like it quite heavy on the garlic.

0:23:140:23:18

So, put this in. Maybe a bit of salt, a bit of pepper.

0:23:190:23:22

How are my prawns doing? I'm checking them out.

0:23:220:23:24

What would you normally serve this sauce with? Fish. It's great with fish.

0:23:240:23:27

Or vegetables. What I'm doing with the king prawns now, you can do...I call it tempura,

0:23:270:23:33

like an eastern Mediterranean tempura.

0:23:330:23:35

I know it's a bit of a cheat, but chunks of aubergine, chunks of carrot,

0:23:350:23:38

okra, for example, so if you're vegetarian

0:23:380:23:41

you can do the same thing, you know, and this is a great sauce to go with.

0:23:410:23:44

Are you... It's quite dry, or not...?

0:23:460:23:48

Well, you can add a little bit of water to it if you want,

0:23:480:23:51

just to make it slightly...

0:23:510:23:54

I wouldn't really...

0:23:540:23:56

I wouldn't really be adding anything else other than water.

0:23:560:24:00

OK.

0:24:000:24:02

OK. Now, let's see what's happened here.

0:24:020:24:04

These prawns, look at them. They look fantastic.

0:24:050:24:07

Great dinner party. Beautiful.

0:24:070:24:09

So, where would people buy that from?

0:24:090:24:12

I mean, can they buy... Middle Eastern, Turkish shop.

0:24:120:24:15

No, this is beautiful as it is. I would not...

0:24:150:24:17

You're right. The consistency is more pesto, but basically...

0:24:170:24:20

what we have here is...

0:24:200:24:22

..it's really pine nut tarator.

0:24:230:24:25

So...

0:24:270:24:29

Prawns sit on it as well.

0:24:310:24:33

They just look great. They're beautifully dramatic, aren't they?

0:24:340:24:37

So, that's definitely going to be in his restaurant, you see.

0:24:370:24:40

Vermicelli's gone. It's one of my recipes.

0:24:400:24:43

I knew you were on the show, so I thought, "What better way to wind him up?"

0:24:440:24:47

Do you want a touch of lemon or not? Yeah.

0:24:470:24:50

Over the top.

0:24:500:24:51

Remind us what that is again.

0:24:510:24:54

This is sweet basil and kataifi-wrapped king prawns

0:24:540:24:56

with pine nut tarator.

0:24:560:24:58

Coming to his restaurant near you.

0:24:580:25:00

Thank you, team.

0:25:060:25:07

Now, the next K dish is a really interesting one.

0:25:070:25:10

It originated in India, and it was brought back here in the days of the British Raj,

0:25:100:25:15

and introduced as a breakfast dish.

0:25:150:25:17

A breakfast dish that's miles away from cereal and toast.

0:25:170:25:21

It is of course kedgeree,

0:25:210:25:23

and here with the know-how are Jennifer and Clarissa,

0:25:240:25:26

The Two Fat Ladies.

0:25:260:25:28

I'm going to make good old kedgeree,

0:25:300:25:33

one of the most comforting of dishes.

0:25:330:25:35

It was originally from India, and it was a simple sort of...

0:25:350:25:39

almost peasant dish made out of just rice and lentils.

0:25:390:25:43

Anyway, what I'm doing is first of all frying some onions.

0:25:430:25:47

I'm going to put in some garam masala.

0:25:470:25:51

And we'll put in some turmeric...

0:25:540:25:56

..which is really the saffron of India.

0:25:580:26:01

It has this wonderful colour - bright, bright yellow.

0:26:010:26:04

I imagine that's what they use when they say saffron robes.

0:26:040:26:07

It's probably turmeric robes.

0:26:070:26:10

For the Buddhist monks. That's a very good point.

0:26:110:26:13

When you get it on anything, it's impossible to get out, isn't it?

0:26:130:26:16

Impossible. Very good dye.

0:26:160:26:18

It does make a wonderful colour

0:26:190:26:21

that will go very beautifully with the haddock.

0:26:210:26:25

These have to be fried until they're soft.

0:26:260:26:28

You don't want them...you don't want them raw chunks.

0:26:280:26:32

Which is just as well, really, because it brings out the flavours of the spices.

0:26:320:26:37

Mm, lovely, that smell.

0:26:390:26:41

They're all right now. They're done. They're soft.

0:26:420:26:44

(IN SCOTTISH ACCENT) So I'll take them away to meet the haddock.

0:26:450:26:48

Can I have this, then? Oh, yes, pray do.

0:26:480:26:51

Now, here I've got a really beautiful bit of smoked haddock.

0:26:560:27:01

It's the real sort. If it's bright yellow, it's dyed.

0:27:010:27:05

Don't get it. But what I do is I've already poached it,

0:27:050:27:09

and I find the easiest method is to just pour the entire thing into the sink.

0:27:090:27:16

Like that. Then you don't have any other mess, and you can just wash the sink out again.

0:27:170:27:21

It's easy in here to take the skin off.

0:27:220:27:26

Peels off a treat.

0:27:270:27:29

And just take a lump over here, and flake it into the onions.

0:27:330:27:39

It's a good thing to do it by hand, you see.

0:27:400:27:42

You can feel for bones.

0:27:420:27:44

We smoke our haddock much less than they do on the Continent.

0:27:450:27:48

It's got a much nicer flavour. Yes, I quite agree with you.

0:27:480:27:51

Theirs tends to be much harder as well.

0:27:510:27:53

Mm.

0:27:530:27:56

Such an unappreciated fish, the haddock, isn't it? We're so rude about it.

0:27:560:27:59

When somebody's down and glum, you say "the haddock mouth".

0:27:590:28:02

Nobody writes wonderful, glowing articles about the beauties of haddock.

0:28:020:28:07

And yet it repays you so kindly when you show it a little affection.

0:28:080:28:12

Well, everybody loves it, don't they, in the fish and chip shop?

0:28:120:28:15

Now, let's stare, and look for any further bones.

0:28:170:28:21

Yes, that's fine. It's a good fish.

0:28:230:28:25

Now, we get the rice. It's good basmati rice.

0:28:260:28:28

And just boil it in furious boiling water with some salt in

0:28:290:28:34

until it's just done.

0:28:340:28:36

Then strain it, and then it's ready to tip in.

0:28:360:28:39

And now we'll put some chopped eggs in.

0:28:400:28:43

I like them hard-boiled, but not rock-hard boiled.

0:28:430:28:46

I like there still to be a bit of moisture just in the middle.

0:28:460:28:50

It's tastier, I think.

0:28:500:28:52

It's good to get it all mixed so the flavours go through everything.

0:28:560:29:00

And the colour.

0:29:010:29:03

You don't want sort of white patches.

0:29:030:29:06

The great thing about kedgeree,

0:29:070:29:09

you can make it all before.

0:29:090:29:12

You can boil the rice, you can have the fish ready,

0:29:120:29:14

etcetera, etcetera.

0:29:140:29:15

When I used to do big parties, you know,

0:29:150:29:18

either for after a dance, or if people wanted a late thing,

0:29:180:29:23

I used to do it all before, and then just reheat it in the oven slowly,

0:29:230:29:29

and then just before serving add great dollops of butter - that's always a good idea.

0:29:290:29:34

And now...

0:29:340:29:36

just for a bit of prettiness,

0:29:360:29:38

and flavour,

0:29:380:29:40

I'm going to put parsley over it.

0:29:400:29:42

And then these lovely little fried onion rings.

0:29:430:29:46

It's what the Indians always put on rice, and I think it's delicious,

0:29:460:29:49

that sort of caramelly taste.

0:29:490:29:51

And it's ravishing, you see?

0:29:520:29:54

Indeed. And delicious.

0:29:540:29:56

I'll just put this on the lid of the Aga to keep it vaguely warm.

0:29:580:30:02

Kedgeree is for comfort, and the old colonels.

0:30:080:30:12

Now, this next dish is offal.

0:30:130:30:15

Not awful. Offal.

0:30:150:30:17

Kidneys are our K here, and here with a classic steak and kidney pudding

0:30:170:30:21

is Matt Tebbutt.

0:30:210:30:23

For this recipe I'm going to be doing a real kind of offal classic,

0:30:240:30:28

and it's one to maybe dip your toe in the water

0:30:280:30:31

of offal eating, and it's using one of the most popular cuts,

0:30:310:30:34

and I'm going to be doing a steak and kidney pudding.

0:30:340:30:36

The kidneys that I first experienced were in school.

0:30:420:30:44

They were over-cooked, and very grey and chewy,

0:30:440:30:48

and almost inedible and disgusting.

0:30:480:30:50

I think that's what a lot of people's kind of memories are,

0:30:500:30:52

but this...I mean, this recipe is going to be totally delicious

0:30:520:30:55

because it's been cooked for such a long time.

0:30:550:30:58

I'm using beef kidneys in my pudding, and ox cheeks instead of regular steak.

0:30:580:31:02

Get them from your local butcher.

0:31:020:31:04

The colour and the texture of a kidney, that's really important.

0:31:040:31:07

It shouldn't be sticky, it shouldn't have any smell either.

0:31:070:31:11

It should be very sort of fresh...

0:31:110:31:14

And kidney, and offal in general, has got a sort of two, three-day shelf life.

0:31:140:31:17

It's very important that you get it fresh.

0:31:170:31:20

This is the ox cheek. This is a real classic recipe.

0:31:200:31:24

It's based on a Mrs Beeton recipe, and it's one of those that I don't think you should mess around with.

0:31:240:31:31

It doesn't need it, you know, because if you get good beef,

0:31:310:31:34

and good kidneys, you've got all the flavours you need.

0:31:340:31:37

And I'm sticking with a traditional suet crust too.

0:31:380:31:41

Suet pastry's kind of fallen out of fashion, as it were,

0:31:430:31:46

but very, very easy, totally delicious.

0:31:460:31:50

And it's kind of a meal in itself. You don't need loads of potatoes, and what have you,

0:31:510:31:55

because the pastry, as it were, is just so rich, and soaks up all those juices.

0:31:550:32:01

Wrap it.

0:32:020:32:04

And then give it about an hour in the fridge.

0:32:040:32:06

Brown the meat.

0:32:070:32:09

Now, once it's in the pan you want to leave it alone, and don't be playing with it too much,

0:32:120:32:16

because you're going to lift it off the base, and it's going to kind of...

0:32:160:32:19

It won't brown as well, and you won't get those nice, caramelly juices.

0:32:190:32:22

That's what gives you lots and lots of flavour.

0:32:220:32:25

Get that out, and that's what I'm talking about,

0:32:270:32:31

those nice kind of golden-looking bits and pieces on the bottom of the pan.

0:32:310:32:34

Before you lose those, just get a little bit of water in there.

0:32:340:32:39

Swirl it round. Get that into your finished stew.

0:32:390:32:45

Then in with the kidneys.

0:32:450:32:47

Drop them in, then leave them alone.

0:32:470:32:49

Now, the reed was a real kind of challenge for me.

0:32:520:32:55

In my head, offal meant things like liver and kidneys,

0:32:550:32:59

and delicious ox tail, but that was...it was quite hard work,

0:32:590:33:03

and I remember the smell of it, and it's not for everyone.

0:33:030:33:08

Some people love it, but it's not for everyone.

0:33:080:33:10

But this is a very different...ball game,

0:33:100:33:14

because this, the kidneys are going to give that just delicious flavour.

0:33:140:33:18

And they're going to be so soft. You're almost not going to notice they're there.

0:33:180:33:22

Then add the celery and onions to the meat,

0:33:230:33:25

and some good old British stout.

0:33:250:33:27

This recipe is everything you'd want in a meal, I think.

0:33:270:33:31

It's the perfect kind of plonk it in the middle of the table, cut it,

0:33:310:33:35

everyone goes wow,

0:33:350:33:37

and it's kind of a taste of the past in a way, without sounding too romantic.

0:33:370:33:41

Once the filling has cooled, pour it into a pudding bowl

0:33:430:33:46

lined with the suet pastry, and seal it in.

0:33:460:33:48

That's it. Done. Right, OK. So now we need a lid.

0:33:500:33:53

Now, the lid I've got... You can always use foil and some greaseproof paper,

0:33:530:33:58

or you can buy this clever stuff, which is all in one.

0:33:580:34:01

It's important, because it's going to swell as it cooks...

0:34:010:34:03

it's important you put a crease.

0:34:030:34:05

Then steam it for around four hours, or use a pressure cooker like this one,

0:34:060:34:11

and leave it to cook for two and a half hours...

0:34:110:34:13

...before turning out, and diving in.

0:34:140:34:17

Beautiful.

0:34:240:34:26

Beautiful. That looks...really good. It smells amazing.

0:34:260:34:29

That suet pastry...

0:34:290:34:31

Don't be upset. It will start to fall apart.

0:34:330:34:35

And there you have it - my classic steak and kidney pudding.

0:34:370:34:40

Right, let's try. The smell, the aromas from this are just brilliant.

0:34:450:34:49

It's a real winner. It's a classic for a reason.

0:34:540:34:57

You've got to go out, you've got to try offal.

0:34:570:34:59

You've got to get it in recipes like this because you won't be disappointed, I'm telling you.

0:34:590:35:03

OK. So, we've had lots of savoury dishes up to now,

0:35:070:35:10

but it's time to move on to something sweet.

0:35:100:35:13

Here's a classic European pudding.

0:35:130:35:15

We're joining Raymond Blanc for a look at how to make a traditional German kougelhopf.

0:35:150:35:19

Hello, Christine. (GREETS HER IN GERMAN)

0:35:210:35:23

See, I have learned my Alsatian for you.

0:35:230:35:25

Long time ago.

0:35:370:35:39

Oh! Can I have a spoon? Can I taste it?

0:35:400:35:44

Ooh la la.

0:35:460:35:48

C'est chaud.

0:35:480:35:50

C'est frais.

0:35:510:35:53

C'est toutes les fruits.

0:35:530:35:54

It just bursts in the mouth with its freshness.

0:35:540:35:56

Christine sells 300 different types of jam in a year,

0:35:570:36:00

as well as local pastries, but her signature cake is a tradition

0:36:000:36:04

that has survived in Alsace for centuries -

0:36:040:36:06

the crown-shaped kougelhopf.

0:36:060:36:08

This kougelhopf is so traditional.

0:36:080:36:10

It represents so much Alsatian pastry.

0:36:100:36:14

Ah, you cut it sideways. Of course. Silly me.

0:36:150:36:19

The kougelhopf is often eaten on a Sunday, and is considered better slightly stale,

0:36:200:36:25

so Saturday's bake is perfect.

0:36:250:36:27

So delicious.

0:36:280:36:30

I'm just dribbling all over it!

0:36:300:36:32

Ooh la la, that looks so beautiful.

0:36:340:36:36

That one is for me.

0:36:390:36:42

Oh, beautiful. It's so light it could float. Allez.

0:36:420:36:45

It's wonderful.

0:36:450:36:47

There's a richness. The coolness as well. It's cool, it's not sweet.

0:36:480:36:52

The sweetness of the jam and freshness of the cream top the kougelhopf.

0:36:520:36:56

It's a simple but perfect union.

0:36:560:36:58

Mm, c'est bon. J'adore.

0:36:580:37:00

It's Sunday morning after all. This is our treat.

0:37:020:37:05

Can we have it?

0:37:050:37:07

C'est un grand morceau.

0:37:100:37:12

Raymond loves the kougelhopf so much

0:37:160:37:19

he's hoping to persuade Christine to give him her recipe.

0:37:190:37:22

This is the first time actually I ever do a kougelhopf,

0:37:220:37:25

and I wanted Christine to do it for me.

0:37:250:37:27

Mm. OK? Yes. I wanted to learn from you.

0:37:280:37:30

A classic sweet yeast dough is the basis of a kougelhopf.

0:37:300:37:34

Flour, milk, sugar, eggs and salt.

0:37:340:37:37

Christine's father was a fourth-generation baker,

0:37:420:37:45

and the king of kougelhopfs.

0:37:450:37:47

My father had to go to the hospital, and I asked him,

0:37:470:37:50

"How do you do the kougelhopf? Give me your recipe."

0:37:500:37:53

And he said, "Enough yeast, enough flour."

0:37:530:37:56

And I said to him, "But you are crazy. I cannot do your recipe

0:37:560:38:01

if you don't tell me how much."

0:38:010:38:03

I wanted to murder him at this time.

0:38:030:38:06

And he was going to hospital! You're not my father!

0:38:060:38:10

THEY JOKE IN FRENCH

0:38:120:38:14

Then he said to me, "Go, and make, and try.

0:38:140:38:19

Kougelhopf is coming from the heart

0:38:190:38:21

towards here, and then it comes out."

0:38:210:38:24

The balancing act of ingredients is often unspoken amongst bakers.

0:38:240:38:28

The mysterious alchemy of ingredients,

0:38:290:38:32

recipe and experience cloak the bakers' craft.

0:38:320:38:35

So, she's looking at the strength, because that gives you the quality.

0:38:350:38:41

It has worked beautifully.

0:38:410:38:43

The temperature is right. That's when you can actually spread the dough, and it is ready to proof now.

0:38:430:38:48

Alcohol with rum. With rum.

0:38:480:38:50

Raisins soaked in rum add a final touch.

0:38:540:38:57

Christine is accusing me of having eaten all the raisins.

0:39:000:39:03

Then the cake dough, with five generations of love and knowledge,

0:39:040:39:08

is left to rise...

0:39:080:39:10

I love the way she touches it. It's gentle.

0:39:100:39:12

..ready for the oven, and more hungry mouths.

0:39:120:39:15

Every day her father before her made it every day, and her grandfather before her made it,

0:39:150:39:20

and so on, and so on, and so on.

0:39:200:39:22

So it's a very well-practised recipe.

0:39:220:39:24

That looked awesome, but if you fancy something a bit more refreshing

0:39:250:39:28

why not try this dessert beginning with K that comes

0:39:280:39:31

courtesy of Indian food expert Anjum Anand.

0:39:310:39:34

Kulfi isn't something I necessarily make at home.

0:39:380:39:40

It's not complicated, but it's time-consuming,

0:39:400:39:43

so I've come to La Portes des Indes, one of London's best Indian restaurants

0:39:430:39:48

to see how award-winning head chef Mehernosh makes it from scratch.

0:39:480:39:52

I love kulfi, so I can't wait to try it.

0:39:520:39:55

So, Mehernosh, what's the basic difference between kulfi and ice-cream?

0:39:580:40:01

Well, in an ice-cream you've got milk mixed in with egg yolks,

0:40:020:40:05

other flavourings and stuff.

0:40:050:40:07

You've got a lot of air incorporated.

0:40:070:40:09

Kulfi is basically just thickened, reduced milk.

0:40:090:40:12

What is that in there? Is that something to flavour it?

0:40:120:40:14

That's a piece of ginger, because the kulfi we're making is a mango and ginger kulfi.

0:40:140:40:18

Oh, nice. Nice and seasonal.

0:40:180:40:20

Basically, it could be any flavouring, couldn't it?

0:40:200:40:22

You let your imagination go.

0:40:220:40:24

One of the first kulfis I made was a chocolate kulfi.

0:40:240:40:26

So, I mean, using pure chocolate. Decadent.

0:40:260:40:29

Absolutely. That one was one to die for.

0:40:300:40:32

Indians love rich desserts, and kulfi is certainly that.

0:40:350:40:39

Westernised cream is whisked up, full of air,

0:40:400:40:42

but kulfi is basically condensed milk.

0:40:420:40:45

So, it's bubbling now. That's it. Shall I add this? OK, add the sugar in.

0:40:480:40:51

Stir it down.

0:40:510:40:53

That'll do. You've got to vary the sugar based on what you're going to add in.

0:40:530:40:58

So the sugar's reduced because you're going to add some mango pulp which itself has got some sugar in.

0:40:580:41:02

Of course. You can just see that it's a perfect kind of creamy, buttery...

0:41:020:41:06

It doesn't look like milk any more. It looks like something has been added to it.

0:41:060:41:10

And that's it.

0:41:100:41:12

Is this your plain boiled liquid?

0:41:120:41:14

So we add in the mango puree. Would you mind whisking?

0:41:140:41:17

I'll be whisker.

0:41:170:41:19

Taste and see if you need some more. A lovely colour.

0:41:190:41:21

Pop in some of that candied ginger.

0:41:210:41:24

Mm!

0:41:240:41:26

A dash of that bit of ginger juice.

0:41:260:41:29

Is that fresh ginger juice? Mm-hm.

0:41:290:41:31

Ginger does actually boil down.

0:41:310:41:33

Then extract the juice out of it, and cool it down.

0:41:330:41:36

That's why it's a bit cloudy.

0:41:360:41:38

Is that milder than just fresh ginger juice?

0:41:380:41:40

Yeah, so it doesn't hit you straight.

0:41:400:41:43

Why don't you have a taste? Can I? Thank you.

0:41:430:41:45

Mm!

0:41:510:41:53

Getting there. No, that's there.

0:41:550:41:57

That's good, that's good. That works for me.

0:41:570:41:59

Now it has to be frozen.

0:42:040:42:06

Mehernosh has really brought kulfi into the 21st Century

0:42:060:42:09

with some imaginative combinations.

0:42:090:42:11

It would be a shame to leave without trying some of them.

0:42:120:42:14

I can tell that's the mango ginger. Correct.

0:42:170:42:19

Just the right texture. Not icy at all.

0:42:190:42:21

I'm going to dig in as well. Mm!

0:42:230:42:25

Fantastic. And you get the fruitiness of the mango,

0:42:280:42:32

and you get a bit of the ginger at the end.

0:42:320:42:34

I don't know what these are. You're not telling me.

0:42:340:42:36

You want me to actually guess what they are.

0:42:360:42:38

It's a bit toffee-like. It's like a toffee crunch. Very good.

0:42:420:42:45

Toffee crunch type of thing. Is that what it is?

0:42:450:42:48

It's got toffee in it, yes. But there's more.

0:42:480:42:50

Chocolate.

0:42:500:42:52

Just nuts. Just nuts? Oh.

0:42:520:42:54

Mm, it's really good. I'm guessing rose.

0:42:540:42:57

Obviously.

0:42:570:42:59

Not so rosy. Pomegranate?

0:42:590:43:02

Pomegranate and rose, yeah.

0:43:020:43:05

I do like making kulfi. All that stirring is rather therapeutic,

0:43:050:43:09

but the shop-bought variety's absolutely fine too.

0:43:090:43:11

It's not like it's difficult to make at home.

0:43:150:43:17

It's a very simple dish. Like we said earlier, it's just a bit time-consuming.

0:43:170:43:20

You've got to be patient, but the end result is great, I think.

0:43:200:43:23

You can try different variations, different flavours.

0:43:230:43:26

It's fun. And very, very moreish.

0:43:260:43:28

That's the last of today's dishes.

0:43:290:43:31

Now it's your turn to get cooking.

0:43:310:43:33

Thanks to all our chefs, and do join me for more remarkable recipes next time.

0:43:330:43:38

See you soon.

0:43:380:43:40

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0:43:430:43:45

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