Letter L The A to Z of TV Cooking


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This is the show where we bring together some of the nation's top TV chefs

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and letter by letter, serve up some of their greatest ever dishes.

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It's as easy as ABC on The A To Z Of TV Cooking.

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Today we're looking at things linked to the letter L

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and here's just some of what we have on the menu.

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Valentine Warner tries an unusual method of preparing lobster.

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So, this is lobster yoga?

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You use the claws to put him, as you said, into the yoga position.

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We've got a leek-lined lasagne dish from the Hairy Bikers.

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Hold on, hold on, what are leeks? They're rolled, aren't they? Yeah, aren't they?

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So, flatten a roll out and what do you get? A sheet.

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These are the future.

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And Jamie Oliver with a squeezy peezy lemon and lime cream tart.

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There's something about squeezing that I like.

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You've got a very good squeezing action there, Jamie. Yeah, I'm proud of it.

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First up, we're looking at L for lamb and we've got three wonderful recipes here,

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so let's get the ball rolling with a great-looking curry from Anjum Anand.

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We're going to cook a lamb curry.

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Cooked with squat green chillies,

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this curry comes from Hyderabad

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in southern India, where they love strong flavours.

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An onion? Thank you.

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All I want is a really rough chop because I'm going to blend it anyway.

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Ground fennel seeds with their distinctive anise flavours.

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Smell that. Cor, that's quite strong, isn't it?

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A little bit less than a teaspoon. Turmeric, with unmissable colouring.

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Garam masala.

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So, you'll smell a mixture of spices but it's more familiar.

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It's like a cinnamon sort of smell.

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There's a lot of cinnamon in this one but there is cinnamon in garam masala generally.

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And these are poppy seeds.

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I know they don't look like normal poppy seeds to you because they've got the skin removed.

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These are very typical for the Hyderabad region, they use a lot of poppy seeds.

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Along with chopped fresh ginger, garlic and tomatoes,

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this is going to be our masala, or curry mixture.

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How's that?

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That looks all right actually. Now you have two options.

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You can either put the meat in that and leave it to marinate

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and you can just leave it there for a few hours, go out and do a job,

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come back, or do it at night for the next day.

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The flavours will already start getting into the meat.

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If you don't have loads of time, you can just cook with it straight away.

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This is a really flexible dish to make.

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Cooking the masala right now will also tenderise the meat.

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When it's finished, Paul could then leave it and reheat it

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when Blue Watch are hungry.

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There's a lot of Indians who say that if you make a lamb curry

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or a chicken curry the day before, it will taste better the next day.

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Before I start cooking the meat, I'm frying off my whole spices.

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In this case, cumin and nigella seeds,

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a classic Indian cookery technique.

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This ensures that they get cooked properly and flavour the oil.

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Let's get the lamb in. OK.

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It does look very nice. A strong smell as well. Well, it's a curry.

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I'm not apologising for my strong curry because a lot of people

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will go, no coconut milk is going in it, nothing to mellow it.

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Curries from this region tend to be real curries.

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10 minutes on a gentle heat and the flavours of our curry mixture

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are really being drawn out.

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What I want to show you about this curry is, I keep the bone in.

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Indians always leave their bone in because the flavour of that,

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the lamb flavour we love is in the bone so if you keep it in the lamb,

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you don't have to add meat stock.

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But also, when the meat starts falling off the bone,

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you know it's really cooked and tender so it serves a dual purpose.

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Now to add that special flavour, chillies.

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We are using jalapenos, mild green chillies that won't overwhelm the other flavours with their heat.

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How spicy do you like it? Be honest.

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I'm not normally adventurous with spices.

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To make them extra mild, we've taken out the seeds,

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frying them first to bring out the chilli flavour.

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They're not as hot as the proper Indian ones we used to cook with.

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If I use six of these, you will die.

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Someone once told me that if you do eat something that is too hot,

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the best thing to do is to take a spoonful of sugar. Is that right?

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Sugar and yoghurt.

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So, now, the best way to know if your masala is cooked is to try it

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and if there's no harsh elements coming out at you,

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then it's cooked and you can go to the next stage. Have a go.

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Because it's quite smooth, you can taste what the curry's going to be like.

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We can add the water.

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Our work is essentially done.

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The masala is now left on a low heat for about 40 minutes.

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Paul only needs to stir it every now and then. Very low maintenance.

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So, shall we put our chillies in? That's great, thank you.

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To finish off,

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a little sourness to enhance the other flavours from tamarind paste.

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Coriander. Lovely. And then I think we deserve a taste, don't you think?

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Definitely. Open up!

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Oh! That is lovely. You can taste the chilli but it's not hot.

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It's not a small chilli so it's not so hot but just great flavour.

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Isn't that a great favourite chilli?

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Staying with lamb, this is an L that some people loathe and some people love.

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It's lamb's liver, and getting to grips with it, it's Raymond Blanc.

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Raymond's first recipe takes often overlooked lamb's liver

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and transforms it into a mouthwatering treat.

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Lamb's liver persillade.

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Succulent liver with crisp sauteed potatoes,

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sprinkled with a classic French seasoning.

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I'm sure you all remember that horrible school liver, thick and overcooked.

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Crucified, murdered. We don't want that.

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We want to cook it quick,

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to create a beautiful golden crust outside

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and keep the inside very moist. So, the cutting is very important.

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Raymond cuts the liver into slices 1cm thick.

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This will allow it to cook evenly, staying succulent and tender.

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What I've done here is a little secret.

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Soak it in half water and half milk and about five big pinches of salt.

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By putting water, I'm cutting down the richness of the milk,

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allowing the salt to permeate inside the liver and draw some of the blood.

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Extracting the blood will remove the bitterness

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and help sweeten the flavour.

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Next, he prepares the herb-packed persillade.

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Persillade has a big place in the heart of every Frenchman.

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Raymond chops the main ingredient, parsley,

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and adds chervil, tarragon and sage.

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Before adding two crushed garlic cloves

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and a whole shallot to give the persillade a gentle kick.

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So, we have our persillade here.

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Adam please?

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Take it away? No, it's OK. Your services are not required!

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I am very lucky, he is the best tempered chef I have ever had!

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No mutiny!

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Next, Raymond sautes parboiled potatoes in sizzling rapeseed oil.

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Our potatoes are nicely caramelised.

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A tiny dash of butter.

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Voila! These are ready.

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Now, you lower it down.

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He lightly browns butter to create beurre noisette,

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which will add a subtle, nutty flavour to the liver.

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Two little slices of liver.

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Oh, what a lovely, lovely noise. We like that.

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Don't season the liver in advance.

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Often the salt withdraws the moisture and then we have a pool of water in your pan.

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Season it now.

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That will take only two minutes. They are a nice colour, as you can see.

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What is happening here is amazing.

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The juices are leaking out into the bottom of the pan.

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By adding water,

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it will merge together into a marvellous little jus.

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Then I'm going to add my persillade to my potatoes.

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And onto my liver, tres bien.

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Voila! Now I put in the water.

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Et voila.

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You have created a wonderful emulsion here.

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You are ready to serve.

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So delicious, so simple. Oh, that is home sweet home.

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Adam? Join me for a liver treat.

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OK, we have sauteed potatoes that I used to have in my home.

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I know because you have been to my home when my mum cooked for you.

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You didn't like her snails? They were not English snails!

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OK, but I hope you like the liver.

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It's better than the school dinners you used to get. I bloody hope so.

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That was the last time I tried liver, at school.

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That's nice with the garlic in there. All is missing there is the escargots.

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Maybe later!

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Thanks, Raymond. Now let's hook up with the Two Fat Ladies

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and their classic shoulder of lamb recipe.

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I think we go left up here. Towards that nice church.

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There it is, I see it in the distance.

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Here we are!

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Lovely shop.

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Gosh, Jennifer, look at this! Isn't it wonderful!

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It's magnificent. Oh, what bliss!

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Everything you could wish for.

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Can I help you?

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Hello, I'm going to want some chicken breasts, and what do you want?

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I want, please, a shoulder of lamb. I'll get that one first.

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Could you be a dear and take off the knuckle end? I'd like to keep it.

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Righty-ho.

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Look at those ribs of beef, isn't that magic?

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There's some lovely faggots in the window. We could have some for our tea.

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Delicious, haven't seen a real faggot in years.

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Marvellous marbling in the meat. And that lovely proper layer of fat.

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Real fat, yes.

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Gloucester old spot pork. I will have a spot of old spot!

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Old spot!

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Then there's all these lovely cheap cuts, which I adore. The ribs.

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Lovely, thank you very much.

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You've got an account for Westonbirt, haven't you? I do indeed.

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Can you put this on it? Certainly. Thank you very much indeed.

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I want to come and live here. So do I, carnivores' delight!

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Now then, I'm going to do a nice, easy dish

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which is a sort of stew because you do the whole thing,

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it's more of a braise, based on, you might say, a poor man's cassoulet.

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But the point of it is, it's easy, you can prepare it all the day before if you want

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and half cook it the day before.

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If you have an Aga, you just put it in the lower oven and Bob's your uncle!

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Or something!

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What you want is a nice shoulder of lamb. Look, this is wonderful.

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Have the little knuckle end cut off in case you don't have such a large casserole as this.

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It makes it easier to fit in, but keep it, keep it,

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it's full of goodness.

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Pop that in. Now, what I have here are soaked haricot beans.

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It's really meant to be easy, this.

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You can use tinned ones, just pour them in with their juice

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and they don't disintegrate, they are sort of magic,

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and they are really very good. But I'm using the real ones.

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I will leave this amount of water in.

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Now, we can start piling everything in.

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I've been chopping onions like mad.

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Great hunks of garlic, about 10.

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What you like. I love it.

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Now we want some fresh tomatoes.

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Again, you can use those Italian chopped ones, if you're in a hurry.

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Just a couple of tins. I've got some cut so I'll use them.

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Now, you may not approve, but it'll all be right in the end.

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Put about three good dollops of tomato puree.

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That's that.

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Now, about three quarters of a pint of white wine.

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Tuck some bay leaves in.

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They always go well with lamb.

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And rosemary, my beloved rosemary.

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And sprinkle over a few peppercorns. They'll all sort of melt.

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They'll give flavour.

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Then, that's about it, you see. It's really quick. It's wonderful.

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Just shove the top on.

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And I'll pop this in the oven now.

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This is going to take a long, slow cooking.

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With this dish, I suggest very good crusty bread

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and a full-bodied red wine.

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Now, you heard Jennifer call that a poor man's cassoulet.

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Well, Rachel Khoo calls the next ingredient poor man's caviar.

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She's talking about L for lentils.

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Puy lentils to be precise.

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Take it away, Rachel.

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Salads are not just for sides, they're for main courses as well,

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and I've got a fantastic lentil salad with beetroot,

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goat's cheese and a delicious dill vinaigrette.

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The portion I'm making could serve four people as a starter.

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I'm using puy lentils, the best in France.

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Although a bit expensive, they are worth it,

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as they hold their shape better than green lentils,

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which is crucial for the texture of my delicious salad.

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These lentils are actually called "poor man's caviar".

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They do look a bit like caviar, and they taste really delicious.

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OK. In the pot. Throw them all in there.

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Cover the lentils with at least double their volume of cold water

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and slowly bring to the boil.

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Reason why you want to use cold water is

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because you'll get an even cook.

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If you added boiling hot water straight away,

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your lentils would cook on the outside

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and go mushy on the outside and wouldn't be cooked in the centre.

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I need to flavour the water with thyme,

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a bay leaf and a teaspoon of salt.

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Probably take 15 minutes to cook, and what I do is,

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at the 12-minute mark, I have a little taste

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and see if they're done already.

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'Next, my delicate vinaigrette.'

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Got this lovely dill.

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I think people overlook dill.

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They always think you've got to put it with fish,

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and actually, it works well with a lot of other dishes.

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'Dill's subtle aniseed flavour works beautifully with cabbage

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'or in a warm potato salad.'

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Sunflower oil, two tablespoons.

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White wine vinegar, two tablespoons.

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'Finally, add a pinch of sugar and salt.'

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All you need to do now is blend it.

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I'm going to make, like, a dill smoothie here.

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'If you don't want to use dill,

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'parsley or fresh basil will work just as well.'

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Mmm. Always have a taste when you make a vinaigrette -

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if it needs a little bit more salt or a bit more sugar,

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but that seems pretty good for me.

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'Now for that crapaudine beetroot,

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'which I've already roasted for 45 minutes.'

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It has a particularly sweet taste.

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Obviously, if you can't find this type of beetroot,

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regular cooked beetroot is fine.

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'If you are not a fan of beetroot,

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'roasted butternut squash or pumpkin would be ideal substitutes.'

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Once you've scraped the beetroot skin off,

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give it a rinse, as you don't want any tough skin in your salad.

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I'm going to thinly slice my beetroot.

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Use my favourite tool, my mandoline.

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If you don't have one of these, a sharp knife will do the same job.

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So, you're looking for something like this,

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so you can almost see through it.

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Let's have a look at our lentils.

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Mmm. They are done. Should still have a bit of a bite to it.

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I'm going to rinse them under some cold water,

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just to stop them from cooking any further.

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Fish out the bay leaf and the thyme. Don't need that any more.

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'Now all you need to do is plate up.'

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Grab some of your lentils.

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Already looking very delicious.

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Already, you can see how the lovely deep red of the beetroot

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goes very well with the dark green from the lentils.

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Cheese. I'm using a kind of fresh goat's cheese.

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It's quite mild. You don't have to use goat's cheese.

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You could use a mozzarella if you wanted to.

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Obviously, it doesn't have the same flavour, but it would work well.

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Or, if you want something a bit saltier, feta. That works well too.

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You want to crumble it on top.

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Don't forget your lovely vinaigrette.

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That bright green colour just brings it all to life.

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And finish off with a sprinkling of salt and a bit of black pepper.

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And there's your beautiful lentil salad

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with the bright red sweet beetroot,

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creamy goat's cheese and a really sharp,

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zingy kind of dill vinaigrette.

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In my restaurant, this beautiful salad was a hit,

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even with the most hardened meat lovers.

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Thanks, Rachel. L is for lobster.

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Valentine Warner discovers there's more than one way to handle them,

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but he's also found the most unusual method.

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Felicity. Val, hello.

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The lobster whisperer at last. That's right.

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'Retired fishmonger Felicity Sylvester is mad about lobsters,

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'and she's got two big 'uns at the ready for me,

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'but before I'm allowed to cook them,

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'she's going to show me her peculiar skill.'

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I'll hypnotise this one.

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I learnt it from an Indian gentleman. Mm-hm.

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He actually said to me, "If I threw you in a vat of boiling water,

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"you would tense up and be very tough."

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Because the terror before you enter the water

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would make you very unrelaxed. Precisely. So he convinced me,

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really, that to hypnotise a lobster would actually enhance its flavour.

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So this is lobster yoga?

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Use the claws to put him, as you said, into the yoga position.

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And you say...

0:21:080:21:10

SLOWLY: Go to sleep, lobster.

0:21:100:21:15

Go to sleep, lobster.

0:21:160:21:20

'Felicity believes that by hypnotising the lobster,

0:21:200:21:23

'it invokes a becalmed state, therefore a more relaxed death

0:21:230:21:27

'and juicier, more tender meat.'

0:21:270:21:30

SLOWLY: Go to sleep, lobster. Go...

0:21:300:21:34

'Even I'm starting to drift off.'

0:21:340:21:36

And he shouldn't move now. OK, so it's your turn.

0:21:360:21:39

So, Felicity, I up-end my lobster.

0:21:390:21:41

And try and make sure that it's got a sort of nice yoga position.

0:21:410:21:47

SLOWLY: Go to sleep, lobster. Go to sleep, lobster.

0:21:470:21:54

You cannot resist the power of my charms, lobster.

0:21:540:21:58

Go to sleep, lobster.

0:21:580:22:00

He is succumbing to your charms, Val.

0:22:000:22:03

Ignore the chillies, lime and garlic.

0:22:040:22:06

Oh, now, don't be cruel to it. Sorry, sorry.

0:22:060:22:08

No, I am taking this deadly seriously.

0:22:080:22:10

I'm not thinking foodie thoughts.

0:22:100:22:12

No. No, no, no.

0:22:120:22:15

Whisper to it. (Go to sleep, lobster.)

0:22:150:22:18

(Go to sleep, lobster.)

0:22:180:22:20

That's one of the most extraordinary things I've ever done or seen.

0:22:210:22:26

There you go, you see?

0:22:260:22:27

'And with the lobsters deeply hypnotised,

0:22:270:22:30

'my preferred method of killing them is by piercing them firmly

0:22:300:22:33

'through the indent on the back of the head which kills them instantly.'

0:22:330:22:37

Any movement that might occur in the lobster

0:22:370:22:40

after it's been cut in half is purely nerves.

0:22:400:22:43

The animal is dead.

0:22:430:22:44

So, we're going to go Mexican on this one.

0:22:460:22:48

Lots of garlic and lots of chilli. Lovely.

0:22:480:22:51

I'm making lobster mojo de ajo,

0:22:510:22:53

a dish inspired by my travels in Central America.

0:22:530:22:56

Whilst Felicity peels a whole bulb of garlic,

0:22:580:23:00

I chop up a couple of smoked chipotle chillies.

0:23:000:23:03

I like this chilli, because of its fantastic,

0:23:040:23:09

fruity, strong, smoky taste. Mmm.

0:23:090:23:13

'The chopped garlic goes into a pan with some light olive oil

0:23:130:23:16

'for about 10 minutes.'

0:23:160:23:18

Lug that in, just so the garlic's covered.

0:23:180:23:21

But it mustn't burn, so keep the heat very gentle.

0:23:210:23:24

So that garlic, as you can see, it's changed colour.

0:23:240:23:27

It's a dark ivory colour. Take that off.

0:23:270:23:29

'Add the chopped chillies,

0:23:290:23:32

'throw in the teaspoon of salt and the juice of one lime.

0:23:320:23:35

Can you taste that little bit of lime in the oil? Mm-hm.

0:23:360:23:38

Mmm.

0:23:400:23:41

I'm going to crack the claw.

0:23:420:23:44

Because you don't want to be doing that once it's cooked.

0:23:440:23:47

Brush the punchy oil onto the lobster

0:23:490:23:52

and barbecue for around four minutes on each side.

0:23:520:23:54

I'm feeling very lobster-like. Lobster everything.

0:23:580:24:01

Well, stand on your head, and I'll hypnotise you.

0:24:010:24:04

Maybe another day.

0:24:040:24:05

'Once it's turned a bright pink colour, it's ready to eat.'

0:24:070:24:11

A bit of coriander in there...

0:24:110:24:13

'Dress with the chilli and garlic from the oil, and tuck in.'

0:24:130:24:16

Mmm. That is so good. Whoa!

0:24:180:24:22

Fantastic. I have to say, that's the way it should turn out, so...

0:24:240:24:30

Tasty. Extra tender, though, don't you think?

0:24:310:24:34

Because of it being hypnotised. Of course. Of course.

0:24:340:24:37

Very, very tender, hypnotised lobster.

0:24:370:24:39

And the rich, sweet meat, the smoked chilli. Yeah.

0:24:390:24:43

It's lovely. Really lovely.

0:24:430:24:46

I'm going to finish this half.

0:24:460:24:48

Mmm. Hypnotic viewing there.

0:24:510:24:54

And next up, we have some more luscious lobster with Levi Roots.

0:24:540:24:57

I want to show you two classic

0:25:030:25:05

Caribbean barbecue treatments for seafood.

0:25:050:25:07

A fabulously spicy lime, chilli and coriander butter

0:25:090:25:13

to lavish on lobster, and a mouthwatering

0:25:130:25:15

parsley and garlic marinade for local langoustines.

0:25:150:25:19

First thing I need is a nice handful of coriander.

0:25:190:25:22

Finely chop that.

0:25:220:25:23

Next, one clove of garlic.

0:25:260:25:28

I had a fantastic time on the boat.

0:25:300:25:32

The nearest thing I can think of a joyride like that

0:25:320:25:36

is at the funfair, on the helter-skelter.

0:25:360:25:38

Right. Let's get this in here.

0:25:400:25:42

Next, I'm going to add the zest of one whole lime

0:25:430:25:46

and the juice of half the lime.

0:25:460:25:49

OK. I want to rind my lime.

0:25:490:25:51

And what we are doing is actually getting the juice up.

0:25:520:25:55

Look at that.

0:25:560:25:58

Next, the chilli. We want this chopped up real fine.

0:26:000:26:04

Let's get that in there.

0:26:060:26:07

'Finally, mash butter into your tangy, spicy mix.

0:26:070:26:11

'The softer the better to help you blend it.

0:26:110:26:13

'Though I'm putting this on lobster,

0:26:130:26:15

'this works really well with salmon too.'

0:26:150:26:18

Once you've made this butter, you can always roll it up

0:26:180:26:20

in a bit of clingfilm, put it in the fridge,

0:26:200:26:23

cut bits off and have it as and when you want to.

0:26:230:26:26

Right, that's ready to use.

0:26:260:26:28

Man, I feel like bursting out into Shakespeare all over the place!

0:26:300:26:33

"The tide in the affairs of man taken at the floods will lead to fortune."

0:26:330:26:37

But in this case, it's going to lead to langoustine! HE LAUGHS

0:26:370:26:41

'I'm going to be getting these ready for the barbecue too,

0:26:410:26:44

'making a delicious garlic marinade.

0:26:440:26:46

'If you can't get hold of langoustines, try big tiger prawns.

0:26:460:26:51

'You need olive oil, chopped garlic and parsley, and white wine vinegar.

0:26:510:26:55

'Mix the lot together. It couldn't be easier.'

0:26:550:26:57

Let's get these guys in there to absorb some of that lovely flavour.

0:26:570:27:01

'Leave for an hour, and you're good to go.'

0:27:030:27:05

So, let's skewer them, shall we?

0:27:070:27:09

I think I'm going to have to do a few of these,

0:27:120:27:15

because something tells me those guys are hungry.

0:27:150:27:17

'Just like my hot pineapple dish,

0:27:190:27:21

'you could grill these or use a hot griddle pan.

0:27:210:27:24

'But a barbecue adds another layer to the taste.'

0:27:240:27:27

While these are cooking, I think I'm going to add a bit more marinade.

0:27:280:27:32

And next, I'm going to add my lobster onto my barbecue.

0:27:370:27:41

Your lobster needs to be cut in half.

0:27:410:27:43

You can get your fishmonger to do this,

0:27:430:27:45

and it helps you crack the claws so that the barbecue heat

0:27:450:27:48

can penetrate and cook the flesh inside.

0:27:480:27:50

You don't want to hit them too hard.

0:27:520:27:54

Just to make a crack like that.

0:27:540:27:56

And what I'm doing is going to have it flesh side down first.

0:27:570:28:01

Leave that to cook for about three minutes.

0:28:020:28:04

'Turn the lobster over and the shell becomes a perfect natural saucepan

0:28:050:28:10

'to melt that spicy lime, chilli and coriander butter.'

0:28:100:28:14

Oh, that smells lovely!

0:28:140:28:16

Well, let's find out what the captain and the rest of the pub think.

0:28:160:28:20

Come on, there, man, let's get stuck in there.

0:28:200:28:23

You and I on the high seas, man. High seas.

0:28:230:28:26

Mmm-mmm-mmm!

0:28:280:28:29

Very nice.

0:28:300:28:32

Is it bad to use my hands? No, man! Go with it, man.

0:28:320:28:35

So, come on. Will you have a try of my langoustines

0:28:350:28:37

and tell me what you think?

0:28:370:28:38

It's Scottish seafood, it's got to be good.

0:28:380:28:40

It's Scottish seafood. Absolutely. Fantastic. Yeah.

0:28:400:28:43

Beautiful.

0:28:430:28:45

Thumbs up? Yeah? Yeah, thumbs up!

0:28:450:28:47

Yeah! How good are they?

0:28:470:28:49

You've got it on your chin. Mmmm. Delicious.

0:28:510:28:54

'It's fabulous to see Caribbean flavours going down so well.

0:28:540:28:57

'Now, if we can just do something about the weather...'

0:28:570:29:00

Next victim up, come on!

0:29:010:29:02

CHEERING

0:29:020:29:05

We leave lobster now and head for lasagne.

0:29:060:29:08

Light lasagne, no less, with the Hairy Bikers.

0:29:080:29:11

Right, let's think about lasagne. What could... I love lasagne.

0:29:110:29:15

Exactly. It's one of them things, isn't it?

0:29:150:29:18

You just go, yes, whoosh, whoo, pasta. Layers.

0:29:180:29:21

'We've been told to half our daily calorie intake,

0:29:210:29:24

'but it's going to be tricky with a rich dish like lasagne.'

0:29:240:29:28

We need a pasta replacement.

0:29:280:29:29

What have we got that we can slice thin? Onions.

0:29:290:29:32

What...no. A layer of onion? They'd go to water.

0:29:320:29:34

Aubergine! No, because then, it would be a moussaka.

0:29:340:29:38

I've got leeks. Hey, hold on, hold on.

0:29:380:29:41

What are leeks? What are leeks?

0:29:410:29:43

They are rolled, aren't they? They are, aren't they?

0:29:430:29:45

So, flatten a roll out, what do you get? A sheet.

0:29:450:29:49

These are the future. MIMICS DRAWING PISTOL

0:29:510:29:54

Now, we need the building blocks of the ragu.

0:29:540:29:56

'With over 40% of our calories coming from fat,

0:29:560:30:00

'we need to think lean.

0:30:000:30:02

Beef, Kingy. Less than 10% fat. Let's try and dry fry it.

0:30:020:30:06

It's all fat in the bank.

0:30:060:30:08

'Dry frying the meat until it's brown gives a caramelised flavour

0:30:080:30:11

'and any veg we add can suck it up.'

0:30:110:30:14

Can't be many calories in celery and onions.

0:30:140:30:17

For goodness' sake, have you ever seen a fat rabbit?

0:30:170:30:19

This is sweating down like you on a treadmill! Hey-hey!

0:30:190:30:23

Do you know what I'm finding hard, Si? No. That! Exactly!

0:30:230:30:27

It's not eating when I'm cooking.

0:30:270:30:29

The temptation to get a spoon

0:30:290:30:31

and have three or four spoonfuls of that.

0:30:310:30:33

And we both do that. Yes, we do.

0:30:330:30:35

And you wonder why when come to the table you say,

0:30:350:30:37

"It's funny how I don't fancy my own food!"

0:30:370:30:40

The fact is we've eaten a meal whilst we are cooking a meal.

0:30:400:30:42

'Like any ragu, it needs red wine.

0:30:420:30:45

'Normally we'd slosh in about half a bottle

0:30:450:30:47

'but booze means calories so this time it's around a glass.'

0:30:470:30:51

150ml of wine.

0:30:510:30:54

'Whilst that bubbles away, I'm going to have a crack

0:30:550:30:58

'at turning leeks into sheets.

0:30:580:31:00

'I reckon slicing the leeks to the centre will create separate layers.'

0:31:000:31:04

How about that? That's a pasta sheet...but not!

0:31:040:31:07

Brilliant! Well done, smartarse.

0:31:070:31:10

Let's see you try and roll no-carbohydrate rice now!

0:31:100:31:14

Genius.

0:31:140:31:16

'By blanching them in boiling water,

0:31:160:31:18

'they should soften enough to flatten them out.'

0:31:180:31:20

It's held together, hasn't it? It has.

0:31:200:31:22

This looks like a ragu, Kingy, and that looks like pasta.

0:31:240:31:28

It does, doesn't it? I'm surprised at how it's come out, actually.

0:31:280:31:32

All we're missing now is some cheese sauce.

0:31:320:31:35

Just like a plain white sauce, isn't it?

0:31:350:31:37

Put all the cheese on top so it really delivers.

0:31:370:31:40

Then we're likely to use less cheese, aren't we? Aye.

0:31:410:31:43

'It's a cheese sauce without cheese

0:31:430:31:46

'so we need to infuse the semi-skimmed milk

0:31:460:31:48

'with loads of flavour, so in with onion,

0:31:480:31:51

'bay leaves and a good bit of nutmeg.'

0:31:510:31:54

Bring to the boil, infuse and then thicken.

0:31:540:31:57

'Normally we would use a butter and flour roux base

0:31:570:31:59

'to thicken a white sauce

0:31:590:32:02

'but we know a paste with milk and cornflour will do the trick.'

0:32:020:32:06

Do you want to lick the spoon?

0:32:060:32:08

Now, look. Would you not think that was a cheese sauce? You would.

0:32:110:32:15

'It needs to look like lasagne so we are layering it up.

0:32:150:32:20

Looking alarmingly appetising. Isn't it?

0:32:200:32:23

And then three leaves of pasta. Not.

0:32:230:32:26

My mouth is beginning to water.

0:32:280:32:31

We are alternating layers of the ragu with our sneaky pasta.

0:32:310:32:36

Looks like lasagne, Kingy.

0:32:360:32:38

'The white sauce is just for the top.'

0:32:380:32:41

That is glossy and unctuous.

0:32:410:32:43

'We'll top it with cheese but not a lot.

0:32:430:32:47

'By using strong cheeses like mature cheddar and Parmesan,

0:32:470:32:50

'a little goes a long way.'

0:32:500:32:52

Looking bigger now it's grated. Fluffing up like a good 'un.

0:32:520:32:56

'We eat with our eyes first and then the tongue follows

0:32:560:32:59

'so it's got to look great.'

0:32:590:33:01

It will look like a lasagne.

0:33:010:33:03

See you later.

0:33:050:33:07

'And all we can do now is wait until it's golden and lovely.'

0:33:090:33:13

Smells like lasagne. Does it look like it? Yes!

0:33:130:33:17

Oh, yeah.

0:33:170:33:19

'But the proof of our first low-calorie dish is in the eating.

0:33:190:33:22

The sensation of actually, with your mouth watering,

0:33:220:33:25

thinking you are going to enjoy a lasagne, is there.

0:33:250:33:29

That is not a bad dinner, is it? Looks like a decent plate of food.

0:33:290:33:32

Hey, it's nice. It is nice.

0:33:350:33:37

The leeks are like lasagne. Mm. How mad is that?

0:33:370:33:42

Thank God! This feels like a meal. It does. It does.

0:33:450:33:50

Cos it tastes great.

0:33:500:33:52

For our next L, let's join the Two Greedy Italians

0:33:540:33:57

who are showing us how to make a lovely-looking seafood linguine.

0:33:570:34:01

Now, he is very hungry and I'm going to prepare for him

0:34:020:34:05

a very cucina povera dish,

0:34:050:34:07

which is just a few ingredients,

0:34:070:34:10

starting with taking water, because we are on a boat,

0:34:100:34:13

from the sea because there's salted water.

0:34:130:34:15

And I have here linguine and I put it into the salted water,

0:34:150:34:20

boiling here on the side. Voila!

0:34:200:34:23

In the meantime, I have prepared a sauce which is very, very easy.

0:34:230:34:28

Be careful, it's hot. Give it to me. Move a little bit.

0:34:290:34:33

Now in this case we have wonderful seafood for the seafood linguine.

0:34:330:34:39

We have fantastic prawns which I have shelled already and mussels

0:34:390:34:43

and a little bit of parsley.

0:34:430:34:45

And we put just a little bit of olive oil and we put the chilli,

0:34:470:34:53

and I like it with the seed.

0:34:530:34:56

People, they just eat the garlic and the chilli in the oil

0:34:560:35:01

and it's called spaghetti or linguini aglio olio e peperoncino.

0:35:010:35:05

And then I put the mussels first because they have to open.

0:35:050:35:10

And by opening, they reveal some wonderful seawater

0:35:100:35:15

which will favour all the entire dish.

0:35:150:35:20

When you put the lid on,

0:35:210:35:24

the steam is building and the mussels are opening quicker.

0:35:240:35:26

Not yet.

0:35:260:35:28

That's building up a lovely steam

0:35:280:35:30

so that they open and release all the fantastic juices.

0:35:300:35:34

As a matter of fact we can put a little bit of wine

0:35:340:35:38

which belongs to it

0:35:380:35:41

and so it builds a little bit more steam.

0:35:410:35:46

Put the lid on. Exactly.

0:35:480:35:50

Do you want me to chop the parsley? You can chop the parsley, Gennaro.

0:35:500:35:56

Thank you. See, I'm always helping you. Wonderful.

0:35:560:36:00

They are opening fine and now I put the prawns.

0:36:020:36:04

Are you going to use a little bit of salt, Antonio? No. OK.

0:36:060:36:09

Little bit of pepper.

0:36:090:36:11

Leave the lid. OK. I want to taste.

0:36:130:36:16

Just a little bit of salt. GENNARO LAUGHS

0:36:180:36:21

What do I do without you? Just a little pinch.

0:36:220:36:26

And I believe it is ready in a minute or two, it's cooked.

0:36:290:36:33

I know that you are hungry. Yeah.

0:36:330:36:36

Do you want the parsley? No. Not yet.

0:36:360:36:39

Just to cook them very briefly.

0:36:390:36:42

You see they change colour and they're cooked.

0:36:420:36:46

Fantastic.

0:36:460:36:48

That's fantastic, Gennaro. You really think of me, eh?

0:36:530:36:56

Mm!

0:36:570:36:59

Just a little bit of olive oil. Yeah.

0:37:000:37:03

Ah! Gennaro, look at this.

0:37:080:37:12

Now we want the parsley. It's all yours.

0:37:150:37:19

Put it in there. Lovely!

0:37:190:37:22

Gennaro, it's all yours. Thank you very much.

0:37:290:37:31

One for you. Thank you.

0:37:310:37:33

One for me. Is the portion enough for you?

0:37:340:37:37

Oh, my goodness!

0:37:370:37:40

Here's to the health of the entire world.

0:37:410:37:43

They all envy us.

0:37:430:37:45

They have to suffer. Mm!

0:37:450:37:49

And this is what makes Italian food different from others

0:37:510:37:55

because when you want to have regional and wonderful things,

0:37:550:37:58

you have to have the very good ingredients,

0:37:580:38:00

which here are available everywhere and the fish is a special flavour.

0:38:000:38:03

The pasta is locally made, parsley is locally grown and eaten in Minori.

0:38:030:38:09

What do you want more? You're right.

0:38:090:38:12

It's fantastic. Yeah. And this is poor food.

0:38:120:38:16

Can feed quite a few people from here.

0:38:160:38:18

Mm! Mm! Mm!

0:38:180:38:20

You can eat it all, Gennaro.

0:38:240:38:27

I know you've worked a lot. I know.

0:38:270:38:30

Now it's dessert time

0:38:330:38:36

and we've got one here that's got two L ingredients.

0:38:360:38:39

It's lemon and lime cream tart from that great little chef Jamie Oliver.

0:38:390:38:43

Whoo-hoo! OK. What do you want me to do for you, Jamie?

0:38:440:38:47

Can you wash those limes? Cos we're only going to get the zest off those.

0:38:470:38:50

What are you making, Jamie? I'm making lemon and lime cream tart.

0:38:500:38:53

Dead simple.

0:38:530:38:55

I've got a pastry shell in the freezer

0:38:550:38:59

and I think short pastry,

0:38:590:39:01

sweet short pastry, is best out the freezer, straight in the oven.

0:39:010:39:05

It doesn't seem to shrink or anything like that.

0:39:050:39:07

If you put the pastry in and the filling in,

0:39:070:39:09

the pastry will be soggy at the bottom.

0:39:090:39:11

So for the filling, basically what I need...

0:39:110:39:15

Get a bowl. Eight eggs.

0:39:150:39:18

Just break them in there, the whole lot. Right.

0:39:190:39:23

I need some sugar in here. I need 340g.

0:39:230:39:27

So, I've just chucked the sugar in here with the eggs.

0:39:270:39:31

Just whisk it until it's pale and all dissolved.

0:39:310:39:34

Lee's a big dessert freak, aren't you, mate?

0:39:360:39:39

I always save a little bit of space for dessert. Little bit of space.

0:39:390:39:43

He likes extra large portions. Yes.

0:39:430:39:46

Uncle Lee's doing a fine job. Slow job.

0:39:460:39:51

Yeah, but some of the best things in life are slow, aren't they, mate?

0:39:510:39:55

Have I got enough? Yeah. Beautiful. Lee's done a fine job.

0:39:550:39:58

This is cool cos look at that green. That's dead cool.

0:39:580:40:02

That looks good and it'll taste right good. Immediate flavour.

0:40:020:40:06

Right, let's get about six lemons. Do you want me to cut these in half?

0:40:070:40:11

Yeah. Oh.

0:40:110:40:12

If you can cut them in half and I'll start juicing along with you. 300ml.

0:40:120:40:16

I do a bit more lime than lemon cos it's not quite as strong in flavour,

0:40:160:40:19

at least not when it's cooked anyway.

0:40:190:40:22

Why do you not use one of those lemon squeezer things?

0:40:220:40:25

Isn't it easier? Yeah. It is easier but I haven't got one.

0:40:250:40:29

All the toys in my kitchen and I haven't got a lemon squeezer!

0:40:290:40:32

But I like squeezing. There's something about squeezing I like.

0:40:320:40:35

You've got a good squeezing action there, Jamie. I'm proud of it.

0:40:350:40:38

Do you cook together a lot, you two?

0:40:380:40:41

Yeah, Lee's cooked a couple of delights for me.

0:40:410:40:44

Do you remember? What was that?

0:40:440:40:47

It was about four years ago. A fisherman's surprise.

0:40:470:40:51

No. Captain's delight, mate. The what? Captain's delight.

0:40:510:40:54

Captain's delight.

0:40:540:40:57

It was so good I couldn't remember the name. It was...

0:40:570:41:01

Lee went on a bit of a mission. He kind of made a ship.

0:41:010:41:05

He constructed a ship out of toast! And baked beans.

0:41:050:41:11

And he made this sea of baked beans, and by the time I finished it,

0:41:110:41:15

I got to the bottom of the sea and there was a chest of treasure,

0:41:150:41:17

which happened to be a big chunk

0:41:170:41:20

of rather mature old plastic cheese at the bottom.

0:41:200:41:23

It's what you call an interactive meal, eh?

0:41:230:41:25

Interactive? You're searching for something. Ha! Shut up!

0:41:250:41:29

Right. Let's have a look. Oh, cool. We're there.

0:41:290:41:33

Basically I just get a sieve now, cos there's quite a few pips in here.

0:41:330:41:39

So we're done. That's basically it. Sweet as.

0:41:470:41:50

Just got to add some cream. 350ml of double cream.

0:41:500:41:53

Very, very... Very, very simple.

0:41:550:41:58

The tart shell is ready.

0:41:580:42:00

I'm kind of wondering why I put it in such a big bowl now

0:42:000:42:02

cos I've got to pick it up!

0:42:020:42:04

You can take the tart shell out and put the filling in

0:42:040:42:07

but I actually find that a pain so I just pour it in.

0:42:070:42:09

Just pull the tray out, pour it in.

0:42:090:42:12

Much easier this way cos you don't spill any. I'll take that.

0:42:130:42:16

How long does that take to cook, then?

0:42:160:42:18

Erm...

0:42:180:42:20

About 20 minutes.

0:42:200:42:22

But you never know, really. It depends on the oven.

0:42:250:42:28

Basically you want to cook it until the centre

0:42:280:42:30

is just a little bit wobbly

0:42:300:42:32

and then you know that around it is pretty much set.

0:42:320:42:35

By the time you've taken it out and let it rest for an hour,

0:42:350:42:38

it will cut really smooth. It'll be lovely.

0:42:380:42:41

And it's good cos all the work's done now, do you know what I mean?

0:42:430:42:46

One tart, lots of girls!

0:42:460:42:49

MUSIC: "Local Boy In The Photograph" by The Stereophonics

0:42:490:42:53

# And the train runs late for the first time today

0:42:530:42:58

# And all the friends lay down the flowers... #

0:43:010:43:05

So we've reached the end of today's A-Z Of TV Cooking.

0:43:050:43:09

Thanks again to all our amazing chefs and I hope you feel inspired.

0:43:090:43:14

Make sure you join me next time for more delicious food. See you soon.

0:43:140:43:19

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:43:320:43:34

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