Japan - South to Kyoto The Hairy Bikers' Asian Adventure


Japan - South to Kyoto

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We've packed our passports.

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And bought our phrase books.

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HE SPEAKS FALTERING JAPANESE

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Because we're off on our biggest, craziest adventure yet.

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ALL: Delicious, delicious, miaow miaow beeeeee!

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HE YODELS LIKE TARZAN

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We're travelling further than we've ever done before.

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To uncover the authentic roots of Britain's favourite takeaway foods.

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I've always wanted to know how to make proper sweet and sour sauce.

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Going off the beaten track

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and being welcomed into some of Asia's hidden worlds.

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How marvellous is this?!

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From the high rises and hot woks of Hong Kong...

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The heat on this is really, really intense.

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But listen, it's like a jet engine!

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I love it!

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To the sweltering tropics of Thailand...

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We love a Tuk-Tuk!

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..where they say it's impossible to eat badly.

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Thai food's arrived in Britain,

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but by crikey, it's only the tip of the iceberg.

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And we fulfil a lifelong ambition, to explore Japan.

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-That is perfect.

-Wow, look at that.

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I've just had a sushi-gasm!

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We finish up in South Korea,

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where the spicy cuisine is sensational.

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This is will go down a bomb down the local.

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So leather up and take to the road.

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For one extremely hairy...

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BOTH: Asian adventure!

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We're on a journey of discovery through Japan.

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There's so much more to Japanese cuisine than sushi.

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It's our all-time favourite food in the world.

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And we want to find out more about the traditions that created it

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and made it so good.

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We're on a pilgrimage to Japan's spiritual centre.

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Enlightenment is ours.

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We're taking the old road to the iconic Mount Fuji

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before finishing our trip in the ancient capital of Kyoto.

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And what a road it is!

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Japan's a biker's paradise,

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and home to four of the world's biggest motorcycle manufacturers.

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I tell you what, these work on a nice, dry road, don't they? Whoa!

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And actually motorcycling around Mount Fuji,

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-it don't get much better, does it?

-No.

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'Sunday's the day for biking in Japan and this is the place to come:

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'Mount Fuji National Park.

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'Home to one of the country's three holy mountains

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'and its spiritual heart.

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'This is the most visited park in the country and I can see why.'

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There's a serenity to the lake,

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-it's beautiful, isn't it?

-Oh, it's gorgeous.

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Do you know, Si, it reminds me of the Great Lakes in Italy,

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like Maggiore and Como.

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Yes. I know exactly what you mean.

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You know what, we're lucky to even be here, Kingy.

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Until 150 years ago,

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Japan was completely cut off from the outside world.

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No-one was allowed in and anyone trying to leave

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faced the death penalty!

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That explains why traditional Japanese food hasn't really changed.

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'And there's no better place to see the old ways in action,

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'than this little town in the shadow of the mountain.'

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-We made it, mate. Fujiyoshida.

-Home of Japan's finest udon noodles.

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And we're going to be taught how to make noodles by a noodle master.

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Along with rice, noodles are at the heart of virtually every meal here.

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Well, it's like potatoes are to us.

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Udon noodles are traditionally eaten before you climb Mount Fuji

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to help purify you for your pilgrimage.

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They're the big fat white ones that look like worms.

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But don't let that put you off... they're delicious!

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This is the oldest noodle restaurant in Fujiyoshida.

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This place has not changed its recipe for 123 years.

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And it's made with spring water from Mount Fuji.

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It's essentially very simple,

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but if you're going to get a right noodle,

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this is one has got to be the best.

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The restaurant's run by fourth generation noodle maker Mr Osawo,

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who likes to be called Oji San, which means Grandpa.

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-Hello, hello, hello.

-How long has Oji San been making noodles?

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HE SPEAKS JAPANESE

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-63 years. Now.

-That's a lot of very happy tummies.

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So how old is Oji San?

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-80-years-old.

-80?

-Noodles keep you young!

-Yeah!

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Oji San is training his grandson Yasuhiro

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in the dark art of noodle making.

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-That's the real thing, Si. That's what we've come for.

-It's unbelievable.

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-Wow. That's amazing.

-Proper hand-cut noodles.

-Yeah, yeah.

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This is one of the finest noodle shops in Japan

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and we are very privileged to be here and very excited.

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So what's the first step?

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THEY CONVERSE IN JAPANESE

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First of all, put the udon dough on the plate.

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-What's the dough made from?

-Flour.

-Yep.

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-Salt.

-Yeah. Water.

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-Very simple, very pure.

-That's it.

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'They might be cut by hand, Kingy,

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'but the process starts with a bit of fancy footwork.'

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"STRICTLY COME DANCING" THEME PLAYS

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'And I'm just the man for the job!'

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-Gentle, gentle.

-Slowly.

-Slow.

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The finest noodles in the world under a Cumbrian's feet.

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It's quite awesome, really.

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'Once the dough has been pounded into submission, it's rolled and sliced.

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'That's sliced, Kingy, not sawed!'

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So it's just one cut, is it, just one?

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-Ahhh!

-I didn't cut through! Ohh!

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We'll just gloss over that bit, that's what he's saying, I think.

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This is not noodles. This is going to be garbage.

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ALL LAUGH

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-It's tough love, Si.

-Once you know the tricks, then you can be better.

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OJI SAN SPEAKS JAPANESE

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How long did you have to put up with this for

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before you worked in the shop?

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HE SPEAKS JAPANESE

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He cut every day for 15 years.

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Most doctorates and degrees and PhDs

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don't even last as long as 15 years,

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in terms of your, you know, in terms of your apprenticeship

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to cutting noodles, I mean, that's quite remarkable.

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'The noodles cook for seven minutes exactly in boiling water.'

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No, no, no.

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You have to practise much more, more.

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Ahhh!

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He's worn a notch out of his stick!

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Just by the...

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'The portions are measured out by the bowlful

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'but even this takes years of training.'

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It's too much.

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Ah, no, no, no. It's wrong.

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So, no hold it, just straight out.

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In the bowl. Ohh!

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No, this is wrong.

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HE SPEAKS JAPANESE

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Don't what the problem is. It's only putting noodles in a bowl!

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It's not as easy as it looks.

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I give up! It's never going to happen.

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Some things I think are best left

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as one of life little mysteries, don't you?

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'The Japanese are obsessed with noodles

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'and they've perfected the art of noodle diversification.

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'There are hundreds of variations on the theme

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'but one of the most popular is ramen.'

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Ramen noodles are thinner and longer than udon

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and are served in a hearty soup.

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They became popular in Japan after the Second World War,

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and today these comforting noodles

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are a favourite fast food choice in the UK as well,

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thanks to chains of noodle bars.

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When you've had enough purity,

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when you've got bored with the seasonality,

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when you want a mucky noodle, a filthy noodle, you want ramen!

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Yes! The happy face noodle. Look at that.

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'And in the foothills of Mount Fuji,

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'we're going to make our own ramen soup

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'with pork broth and marinated soft boiled eggs.'

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They're full of thick, sticky, fatty, porky broth.

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You've got belly pork on the top.

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You've got tamago eggs which are like

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the best kind of semi hard-boiled egg in the world.

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It's kind of, new food, it was born in the 1950s,

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it's food to free the shackles of oppression.

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These boys are ramen rock-and-roll noodles.

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But ramen, it's all about the stock.

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That's what people are going bonkers for in the ramen shops.

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And people who own ramen shops,

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they closely guard the secret of their stock,

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but they'll have pork bones going for two days,

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three days, just this intense, fatty, meaty, tasty broth.

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And it clings to the noodle, like a climber on a rock face.

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You know, the great thing about ramen, it's sticky when you eat it.

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It sticks to your lips, and all that fat content. Ohh!

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And when you slurp ramen, it's messy, it gets on your glasses,

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in your hair, in your head but it's part of the gig.

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Now, the broth, it's quite specific.

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In here, I've got a pan, with two and a half litres of water.

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Yes, it does happen to be spa water from Mount Fuji,

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but you know, tap will do.

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So this is a piece of combu seaweed, and it's been soaking in that

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two and a half litres of water for about half an hour.

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You can buy combu seaweed in Asian supermarkets back home.

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Now, what we do is we cut this into three strips.

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You've got to be careful.

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You put this in here, and we bring this to the boil.

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As soon as it's on the boil, we take the combu out and discard it.

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If you boil it with the combu in,

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it's going to taste like a fisherman's wellington

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and that's not the effect we're after.

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There we are. That's just coming to a nice poach.

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Remove the combu and add some sake, dried shitake mushrooms,

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an onion, ginger and some tuna flakes,

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which you can buy in Asian supermarkets or online.

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I love these big chopsticks. I feel proper.

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This dish has regional variations

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and round here they love pork ramen.

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So what I'm doing is I'm just rinsing the grease off it.

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What we want to do is,

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we don't want any of that to go into our stock.

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-No, we want the pure flavours, you know.

-There you are, dear fellow.

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And in they go!

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Cover that up.

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The stock needs to bubble away for three hours.

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While it's doing its stuff, I'm going to show you something

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that'll make your ramen look and taste like the real deal.

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It's a hard-boiled egg garnish.

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But, like everything Japanese,

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it is the most perfect hard-boiled egg you've ever had.

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It's runny in the middle,

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and it's marinated for 12 hours in Japanese spices.

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'And of course the Japanese have a gadget for everything.'

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This is something you won't find at home. This is a tamago egg mould.

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You can have shaped eggs. You can have heart-shaped soft boiled eggs.

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-Star-shaped soft boiled eggs.

-It's genius.

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Pop a soft-boiled egg that's been cooked for exactly six minutes

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into the mould and immerse the whole thing

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in a marinade of soy, mirin and sake.

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It's just like pickled eggs in pubs. I like pickled eggs.

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After 12 hours - yes, I know, 12 hours -

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you'll have the perfect garnish for your ramen.

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Simples.

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-Oh!

-Now, that's the lovely broth. That's what we're after.

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And then add even more flavour. Fresh shitake mushrooms,

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ginger and garlic, and these gorgeous shimegi mushrooms

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which are perfect in soup or stir fries. That's it. Job done!

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Now, we are nearly at the end of the noodle path at the top of Mount Fuji.

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The time has come to achieve enlightenment perfection

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in the way of the ramen.

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Fresh noodles like these only need a couple of minutes to blanche.

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Then, right at the end, you add your meat.

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We're using some slow-cooked char sui pork

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but leftovers from a roast would do just as well.

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Layer up the ramen noodles, slices of pork, spring onions

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and enoki mushrooms.

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And now the broth, lots of broth.

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Nice.

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Top with more pork, some spring onions

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and the piece de resistance - the egg!

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It looks like a builder's bum, not a heart!

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You too, Japanese builder's butt-crack eggs.

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-Oh, that's what you're after.

-Yeah, look.

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That will sit on top of the noodles.

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'Finish off with a flourish of tuna flakes.'

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Look at that, dude, I love how they move.

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As the Japanese say, when you want ramen, there's only ramen'll do.

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It's true. It's comfort food for Japan.

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Well, this is the first time, mate. We've made ramen in Japan.

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On the shores of a lake in the foothills of Mount Fuji.

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THEY SLURP LOUDLY

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Mmmm!

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-It's rich.

-It's sweet, savoury.

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All those flavours that you expect from Japanese cuisine.

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And all the textural differences as well.

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We can't thank Japan enough

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for giving the world the ultimate comfort food.

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Mind, it's a clean shirt.

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That's it, Dave, Fuji's right behind those clouds now.

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I can sense it, Kingy, I can sense it. The spirit is nearly upon me.

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But the visuals are sadly lacking at the minute.

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'Mount Fuji is the most climbed mountain in the world.

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'But the summit's only visible for about 100 days a year,

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'and it's sod's law that today isn't one of them.'

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Kingy, there's like a cutout Mount Fuji sign on the traffic lights.

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I tell you what, mate, at this rate,

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the cutout is about as much as we'll see.

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It's about your spiritual imagination

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rather than the physical entity, dude.

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-Yeah, but it's enigmatic, because we know it's there.

-Exactly.

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It's shrouded in a veil of mystery.

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This is Mount Fuji.

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The sacred mountain, the giver of water for the noodles.

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-It's kind of otherworldly, isn't it?

-It is.

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I think making the noodles was kind of slightly ethereal.

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-The attention to detail, the madness of the noodle.

-Yeah. Yeah.

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And then, you know, it's all beginning to make sense.

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-It's just incredible. What a privilege.

-Oh, yeah.

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Look at that, man.

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If we've got off to a start like this,

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imagine what Kyoto has got to offer us.

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-Oh, man, it's just going to be amazing.

-It makes you giggle!

-It does.

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-Hey, we're lucky.

-We are that, mate.

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'It's really special up here.

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'There's not much that could add to the tranquillity and peace, eh, Kingy?

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'Except perhaps a mountain spa.

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'If you're of a nervous disposition, you might want to look away now.'

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HE GASPS

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Oh, it's hot!

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Aaagh!

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Whoa-hoo!

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It's poaching.

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-This is called the black bath.

-Is it?

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Yeah. Fuelled with the health-giving properties

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of the waters from Mount Fuji.

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Indeed, volcanic waters, these are, heated by volcanic springs.

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Said to cure rheumatism, myalgia, haemorrhoids.

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-Anything that the biker may come down with.

-What about neuroses?

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-You could do with some of that, you.

-Shut your face.

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But, you know, it is an active volcano, one tends to forget that.

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-And it hasn't blown off since 1707.

-Unlike you.

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Will you shut up and enjoy the waters?

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I am enjoying the waters immensely. Where's your flannel?

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Cos you can't dip your flannel in the water,

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you can't pollute the waters with soap.

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So what you do is, you put your flannel on your head

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so you don't pollute the waters and you don't lose your flannel.

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It's genius. So you sit, chatting, with a flannel on your head.

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It's tradition.

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'Is it?

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'Well, tranquil and purified, we're ready for Kyoto,

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'Japan's ancient capital.'

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It definitely feels like the ancient capital of Japan.

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-Beautiful, isn't it?

-Fabulous. It's like a film set.

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It does, doesn't it?

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'Japan was a vegetarian country for over a thousand years

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'and has some of the best vegetarian cuisine in the world.

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'The very best is found not in Kyoto's swanky restaurants

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'but in the Buddhist temples.'

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Now, this is going to be interesting.

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Oh, you can see the architecture's changing as well a bit, isn't it?

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Yeah, yeah.

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'We're lucky enough to have been invited to break our journey

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'and stay the night at the temple.

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'We've arrived late but the monks have left the key under the mat,

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'so we can let ourselves in.'

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-Cor, this is a chance to take a breath, isn't it?

-Isn't it just.

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This is part of our pilgrimage to find

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the kind of roots of Japanese cuisine.

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We're lucky enough to get to sleep here,

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then we're lucky enough to get up and learn a few things about what

0:19:030:19:06

is possibly the best vegetarian food in the world.

0:19:060:19:09

We get to help to cook breakfast, which is going to be interesting.

0:19:090:19:12

We have to get up early, we have to cook breakfast,

0:19:120:19:14

we have to help in the garden, then do a bit of cooking of our own.

0:19:140:19:17

How lovely is that?

0:19:170:19:19

'But first, after a long day on the road, we need our beauty sleep.'

0:19:190:19:24

Kyoto is home to 1,600 temples.

0:19:290:19:33

Buddhism has been part of the country's culture

0:19:330:19:35

since the 6th century

0:19:350:19:37

and Shinto philosophy is at the heart of Japan's day to day life.

0:19:370:19:41

'The monks' day starts at sunrise with meditation,

0:19:460:19:49

'but head priest Reverend Daiko has taken pity on our tired bones

0:19:490:19:54

'and let us sleep in, waking us up in time for breakfast.'

0:19:540:19:57

-Morning.

-Good morning.

-So, it's 6.30.

0:19:570:20:00

-Is it?

-Yeah. So, you're supposed to make your breakfast.

0:20:000:20:05

-OK.

-So we have to move.

0:20:050:20:07

'Come on, mate!

0:20:070:20:08

'The chef who cooks the monks' food

0:20:080:20:10

'also works at a Michelin-starred restaurant, no less.

0:20:100:20:13

'And we're going to help him make breakfast. Up and at 'em!'

0:20:130:20:17

Forget cereal and toast!

0:20:210:20:23

We're making two types of soup and five side dishes.

0:20:230:20:27

-Shiba-san.

-Nice to see you.

0:20:320:20:35

-Thank you.

-Great to see you. Thank you.

0:20:350:20:38

'Chef Shiba tasks us with making tofu dumplings.

0:20:380:20:42

'I think this is penance for oversleeping this morning.'

0:20:420:20:45

-So, you're mashing the tofu to make it smoother.

-Yeah.

0:20:460:20:51

-It's a lot of work.

-Yeah.

-It's a lot of discipline.

0:20:530:20:56

-Which is part of being a monk!

-Yes.

0:20:560:20:59

This type of cooking has a special name in Japan - Shojin Ryori.

0:20:590:21:02

The pursuit of enlightenment through cooking.

0:21:020:21:05

-And presumably, this cuisine purifies your body as well?

-Yes.

0:21:160:21:20

'For the Zen Buddhist, cooking is considered a type of meditation.

0:21:200:21:25

'The aim is to banish worldly thoughts, focus on the food

0:21:250:21:28

'and aim for limitless perfection.

0:21:280:21:30

'We could learn a lot from these monks, Kingy.'

0:21:300:21:33

There is a feeling of wanting to get it right, isn't there?

0:21:330:21:36

'The dumplings are stuffed with edamame beans, potato

0:21:360:21:40

'and gingko nuts, which some people believe help with mood and memory.

0:21:400:21:45

'They should always be used in moderation though

0:21:450:21:47

'as they're poisonous if eaten to excess.'

0:21:470:21:50

The Shojin cuisine looks very easy to cook.

0:21:510:21:55

But it's the most difficult.

0:21:550:21:57

'The attention to detail in plating up is everything you'd expect

0:21:590:22:02

'from a Michelin-starred chef, but with added value.

0:22:020:22:06

'Buddhist philosophy dictates every meal should include five colours,

0:22:060:22:10

'white, red, black, yellow and green.

0:22:100:22:15

'As well as looking lovely,

0:22:150:22:16

'it also helps make sure you're getting all your vitamins.

0:22:160:22:20

'With food like this on offer every day, no wonder there's been

0:22:210:22:25

'a sharp rise in the number of Buddhist monks in recent years!

0:22:250:22:28

'Monks can also get married and have families,

0:22:280:22:30

'so that probably helps with the recruitment drive.

0:22:300:22:33

THE MONKS CHANT

0:22:330:22:35

'A monk should always eat healthily and in moderation

0:22:400:22:42

'so portion sizes are small.

0:22:420:22:45

'Which is something else we could learn from the monks, don't you think?'

0:22:450:22:48

-So, please enjoy.

-Thank you.

0:22:480:22:50

-Oh!

-Anybody ever says tofu is boring, they have to taste this.

-Yes.

0:22:580:23:04

This is absolutely gorgeous.

0:23:040:23:06

Is it? I have to say, I have said that tofu is boring.

0:23:060:23:10

-It's so good.

-Sesame tofu is...

-Oh, wow.

0:23:100:23:14

-..it's very mild.

-Oh, yeah.

0:23:140:23:17

'Oh, no.

0:23:170:23:18

'I'm a tofu convert, dude!

0:23:180:23:20

'And those are words I never thought I'd hear coming out of my mouth.'

0:23:200:23:23

Before you were a monk, what did you do?

0:23:250:23:30

-Did you have... You were a student?

-Yes, I was a student.

0:23:300:23:35

-Did you go to discos and ride motorcycles?

-Yeah!

0:23:350:23:38

So, normal life.

0:23:380:23:40

Normal life.

0:23:400:23:42

So, um, I was a big supporter of Liverpool football club.

0:23:420:23:47

Hurray! Great!

0:23:470:23:49

So, when I was at graduate school,

0:23:500:23:54

after university, I visited Anfield stadium. Yeah, yeah.

0:23:540:23:59

That's a wonderful stadium.

0:23:590:24:02

Yeah, wonderful stadium, yes.

0:24:020:24:04

What was it that made you decide...

0:24:040:24:07

I've seen Anfield, I'm going to be a monk?

0:24:070:24:09

At first I did not want to be a priest.

0:24:090:24:12

Because it is, um... out of fashion, right?

0:24:120:24:16

At that time, I thought it out of fashion.

0:24:160:24:20

-But I felt very honoured to be wanted.

-To be part of it.

0:24:200:24:26

-To take over the temple and be part of it.

-Yes, yes.

0:24:260:24:30

So that is a bigger reason.

0:24:300:24:31

I think I can honestly say that that was the finest breakfast I've ever had.

0:24:330:24:37

-Really?

-Thank you so much.

-Thank you very much.

0:24:370:24:40

'After brekkie, the monks meditate for anything up to four hours a day.

0:24:460:24:50

'We've visited many places where meditation

0:24:500:24:53

'is an important part of life,

0:24:530:24:54

'but this is the first chance we've had to try it ourselves.

0:24:540:24:58

'Our spiritual guide is Reverend Taka.'

0:24:580:25:00

You can sit down, crossed legs.

0:25:020:25:04

You can put your left hand just below your belly button like this.

0:25:040:25:09

And put your right hand on the top.

0:25:090:25:12

And then touch your thumbs to each other. Like this way.

0:25:120:25:15

The most important part here is breathing,

0:25:150:25:18

so you just focus on your breathing.

0:25:180:25:19

HE RINGS BELL

0:25:190:25:21

So, please take this gesture, pause and then bow.

0:25:430:25:46

Right.

0:25:480:25:50

Right, you can stretch your legs.

0:25:500:25:53

-Thank you.

-Thank you.

0:25:530:25:55

-How was it?

-It was lovely.

-It's just about being quiet and still.

0:25:550:26:00

And in the modern world we live in, it's very difficult to be that.

0:26:000:26:03

So to be taught how to be quiet and still, is a great thing,

0:26:060:26:10

-isn't it, really?

-Yeah.

-It's a nice thing to do.

0:26:100:26:14

-And it's going to make us better cooks.

-That's always good.

0:26:140:26:17

'In our time at the temple we've been fed literally and spiritually.

0:26:190:26:23

'We want to show our appreciation to the monks by cooking for them.'

0:26:230:26:27

Right. Revitalised by meditation and tea,

0:26:290:26:33

and we are so kind of Buddhist now

0:26:330:26:34

we're going three feet off the ground.

0:26:340:26:37

We're going to do our tribute to Shojin Ryori cooking,

0:26:370:26:40

the Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, which is...

0:26:400:26:43

A tofu, aubergine and lotus fruit stew.

0:26:440:26:48

Oooh!

0:26:480:26:49

This vegetarian dish shows off the region's vegetables

0:26:490:26:53

and the local protein-packed tofu.

0:26:530:26:56

Kyoto is famous for its artisan tofu makers who make it fresh

0:26:560:27:00

every morning like craft bakers do at home.

0:27:000:27:02

Mr King, having had his inner eye opened, has started to enjoy tofu

0:27:030:27:08

after 20 years of abstinence.

0:27:080:27:10

I've always enjoyed tofu in its various forms, be it smoked,

0:27:100:27:13

crispy, soggy, soups.

0:27:130:27:15

-Convert.

-I am, I am.

-Shall we begin, grasshopper?

-We should.

-Right.

0:27:170:27:21

Now what I've done here is I've taken some firm tofu

0:27:210:27:25

and cut it into one inch cubes.

0:27:250:27:28

I'm then going to toss it in some rice flour.

0:27:280:27:31

Now, rice flour, get your heads into using rice flour

0:27:310:27:34

because it's a really, really clever ingredient.

0:27:340:27:37

It gives the tofu a bit of a crunch and stops it falling apart

0:27:370:27:41

when it's cooked.

0:27:410:27:42

But also, they'll go slightly puffy.

0:27:420:27:45

And that's, that's what you want.

0:27:450:27:48

While Si's been looking after the tofu, I've been on the veg.

0:27:480:27:52

A finely chopped onion, two leeks and two aubergines.

0:27:520:27:56

It all goes into a hot oiled wok

0:27:570:27:59

with the aubergines around the edge so they'll brown nicely.

0:27:590:28:02

Whilst they're cooking, I'll prepare the ginger and garlic.

0:28:020:28:05

I want four cloves of garlic and two tablespoons of ginger. Yeah.

0:28:050:28:10

That's the garlic and ginger. It's a fair amount.

0:28:100:28:13

Thinly slice some fresh lotus root

0:28:140:28:16

that's been steamed for 30 minutes.

0:28:160:28:19

In the UK you can buy lotus root dried or in cans,

0:28:190:28:22

or if you're really lucky,

0:28:220:28:23

some supermarkets have started to sell it fresh.

0:28:230:28:26

That goes in....with two tablespoons of miso.

0:28:280:28:32

And you saute the miso off for a minute.

0:28:340:28:36

And then add some of our favourite shimeji mushrooms.

0:28:380:28:41

Don't be tempted to eat them raw, they're very bitter.

0:28:410:28:45

But cooked, they're delicious!

0:28:450:28:46

You could use sliced chestnut mushrooms if you wanted.

0:28:480:28:51

But there's something about the delicacy and the flavour of those

0:28:510:28:54

that's perfect. Ready for the liquid?

0:28:540:28:56

-Absolutely, as soon as you can give us it I'll be very happy.

-Right.

0:28:560:28:59

300 mls of hot water.

0:28:590:29:02

Then add the two staples of all good Japanese food,

0:29:030:29:06

soy and mirin rice wine.

0:29:060:29:08

Bring the stew to the boil and stir the tofu through.

0:29:100:29:14

That looks lovely, Kingy. All the mixtures.

0:29:140:29:16

Got to be so careful you don't break the tofu up.

0:29:160:29:19

I really, really hope the monk likes this.

0:29:200:29:23

It's nice to give something back.

0:29:230:29:25

I mean, they've been so generous with their food, their time.

0:29:250:29:28

-And just their hospitality.

-Yeah.

0:29:280:29:31

Our tofu, aubergine and lotus root stew is a feast fit for a monk.

0:29:310:29:36

And a monk used to eating Michelin-starred cuisine no less!

0:29:360:29:40

That's so tasty. This crispy stuff on top.

0:29:400:29:43

-Thank you, this is wonderful.

-Yeah?

-Yeah.

-Oh, thank you!

0:29:450:29:51

I don't know about you, Kingy, but after all that pursuit of purity,

0:30:040:30:07

I'm craving something just a little bit naughty.

0:30:070:30:11

Well, mate, like an answer to prayer, I've got just the thing.

0:30:110:30:14

We're on the outskirts of Kyoto to cook some fast food

0:30:140:30:17

for a famished five-a-side football team.

0:30:170:30:20

We've arrived at Ancha's place and Ancha cooks...

0:30:220:30:24

Ancha is a master of okonomiyaki, which is...

0:30:240:30:27

Well, it's kind of like a Japanese pizza sort of thingy.

0:30:270:30:30

-No, it's not. It's kind of like a pancake.

-It kind of is.

0:30:300:30:34

It's like a bit of a bubble and squeak thing going on,

0:30:340:30:36

but it's fantastic.

0:30:360:30:38

-It's just like real food.

-It is. It's fun food, but also...

0:30:380:30:43

-Yeah.

-..look at this.

0:30:430:30:46

-We know it's going to be a good day.

-Cos he's a biker!

-Get in!

0:30:460:30:49

He's a biker that's a master of okonomiyaki.

0:30:490:30:52

-Can't wait.

-Neither can I. It's going to be a corker.

0:30:540:30:56

-Konnichi-wa.

-Konnichi-wa.

-Konnichi-wa.

0:30:560:30:59

-Nice to meet you.

-I'm Dave.

-I'm Gan. Nice to meet you.

0:31:010:31:04

'Gan is the footy team's manager and he and the boys always come to

0:31:040:31:08

'Ancha's for okonomiyaki after a match.'

0:31:080:31:12

Ancha, show us how to cook okonomiyaki.

0:31:120:31:15

'In a bowl, you just mix together cabbage, tempura crumbs, red ginger,

0:31:170:31:21

'and a spring onion and an egg.'

0:31:210:31:23

Japanese eggs are fantastic. They've got the biggest yolks.

0:31:250:31:28

Really good eggs in Japan.

0:31:280:31:30

Also, just a little bit of batter.

0:31:300:31:33

-Oh!

-Crumbs!

0:31:330:31:36

-That's a thick batter.

-Isn't it?

0:31:360:31:38

-That's like a dough, isn't it?

-Yeah.

0:31:380:31:40

'Okonomiyaki was a lifesaver during World War II

0:31:420:31:45

'when there was a rice shortage

0:31:450:31:46

'and it's still a great way to make cheap ingredients go a long way.'

0:31:460:31:50

-Oh, man, that looks good.

-I know.

0:31:530:31:55

It's the Japanese version of a little bit of what you fancy

0:31:550:31:58

-does you good.

-Yeah.

0:31:580:31:59

It's highly calorific, which is why the lads come in and eat it

0:31:590:32:02

and drink beer. It's brilliant.

0:32:020:32:04

The word itself means it can be what you want.

0:32:040:32:07

You can put pork in it. You can put beans in it.

0:32:070:32:09

Here it's just thin slices of belly pork. Look at that. Superb.

0:32:090:32:13

Oh, look, it's moving.

0:32:150:32:16

SIZZLING

0:32:180:32:20

Oh, look at that, man! Ah!

0:32:200:32:23

It's fantastic and there is an insatiable urge just to pick it up

0:32:260:32:32

and go... isn't there?

0:32:320:32:35

-Well, yes.

-I want it.

-I would like a plate.

0:32:350:32:38

'Hold your horses, dear heart!

0:32:380:32:40

'It's not ready yet. It needs its toppings.'

0:32:400:32:44

-We can choose a sweet sauce or a spicy sauce.

-Uh-huh.

0:32:440:32:47

-And what's your preference?

-Sweet one.

-Sweet one.

0:32:470:32:51

-Oh, he's not shy with the sauce.

-Look at that.

0:32:510:32:54

Oh, mate!

0:32:560:32:59

Seasoning.

0:32:590:33:00

'They're finished off with seaweed seasoning and mayonnaise.'

0:33:000:33:04

Oh, look at that. He's even got a cool mayonnaise bottle.

0:33:040:33:08

Ancha, you are the man.

0:33:080:33:10

'Ah, finally, I get to satisfy my insatiable urges.'

0:33:100:33:13

-It's hot.

-It's hot, it's lovely, but it's heaven.

0:33:180:33:21

I want to cook these at home.

0:33:210:33:23

The flavour of the seaweed, the sauce, the sweet, the savoury.

0:33:230:33:28

Everything that's in it, and the pork, it's really, really tasty.

0:33:280:33:33

And you get that dough feeling to it as well, which is interesting.

0:33:330:33:36

-There's a definite dough...

-Oh, there's a comfort to it.

0:33:360:33:40

-It is a duvet of Japanese love.

-It certainly is that.

0:33:400:33:43

'Oh, I could certainly do an okonomiyaki duvet day right now

0:33:430:33:47

'but those boys will be here soon

0:33:470:33:49

'wanting their super-duper bubble-and-squeak-pizza-pancakes.'

0:33:490:33:52

-Ancha-style.

-Ancha-style!

0:33:520:33:54

-Gets hotter.

-Thank you.

0:33:540:33:57

Make me look cool, Ancha.

0:33:570:33:59

You look like something from a nativity play at the minute.

0:33:590:34:02

-Nice.

-Oh, it looks good, dude.

0:34:020:34:04

-Oh, hello, boys.

-Hello.

0:34:060:34:08

Right, what are we doing?

0:34:080:34:10

Gentlemen, what can we get you?

0:34:100:34:12

-Pork.

-Pork.

-Yes.

-Pork. Pork? Shrimp?

0:34:120:34:18

Three pork traditional, one shrimp.

0:34:180:34:20

Go on, go on.

0:34:220:34:24

You start laying up, I'll start cracking them out.

0:34:260:34:29

SIZZLING

0:34:290:34:30

Flamin' Nora!

0:34:300:34:32

MEN SIGH

0:34:320:34:34

Looking good, dude, looking good.

0:34:370:34:39

CHEERING AND APPLAUSE

0:34:430:34:46

Boys, why do you like eating okonomiyaki?

0:34:490:34:53

What is it about okonomiyaki that you like?

0:34:530:34:56

He gets power if he eat.

0:35:000:35:03

OK, strength.

0:35:030:35:04

Strong.

0:35:040:35:06

LAUGHTER

0:35:060:35:09

Can we have another one for the little fella?

0:35:090:35:12

I believe we're ready to serve up.

0:35:180:35:21

-Pork?

-Sweet?

-Pork?

0:35:210:35:23

Not the pork?

0:35:230:35:26

Thank you.

0:35:260:35:28

Thank you.

0:35:280:35:30

Arigatou gozaimasu.

0:35:360:35:38

Sugoi!

0:35:380:35:40

What's it like?

0:35:430:35:45

Good.

0:35:510:35:53

-Delicious.

-Delicious? Good.

0:35:530:35:55

-It's been a great privilege.

-It has.

-Thank you.

-Thank you so much.

0:35:550:35:59

Good job.

0:35:590:36:01

CHEERING

0:36:010:36:03

See, he keeps the best for last. That's the sign of a good chef.

0:36:030:36:06

'In spite of the invasion of Western burger joints,

0:36:080:36:11

'okonomiyaki is still the most popular fast food in Japan

0:36:110:36:14

'and you know what, Dave, I'm not at all surprised.'

0:36:140:36:17

-I love that. What a brilliant joint.

-What a great experience that was.

0:36:190:36:24

Proper lads. Night out. Bit of a drink, and, hey, what about these?

0:36:240:36:29

-I know.

-How beautiful are these?

-I'm going to treasure that.

0:36:290:36:31

You know, it's things like this, when you've been away, whenever

0:36:310:36:34

I cook Japanese food at home, the imperial pinny will come on.

0:36:340:36:38

-Make sure you wear something else, mate, and not just that.

-Why not?

0:36:380:36:42

-My sumo belt!

-Sumo belt?

0:36:420:36:45

THEY LAUGH

0:36:450:36:47

What a thought!

0:36:470:36:50

I just love the diversity of food that Japan has to offer.

0:36:500:36:53

From Michelin-starred vegetarian Buddhist temples and udon noodles

0:36:530:36:57

kneaded by foot, to greasy spoons like Ancha's place and now for the

0:36:570:37:01

Mecca of convenience food the world over - motorway service stations.

0:37:010:37:06

-Japanese lollies.

-Get in!

0:37:080:37:10

Ooh, they're good.

0:37:120:37:14

'Unlike in the UK, service stations in Japan are renowned

0:37:140:37:17

'for their speciality snacks and at this one it's all about melon buns.

0:37:170:37:22

'Yes, you heard me, melon buns.

0:37:220:37:24

'5,000 of these fly off the shelves here every day!'

0:37:240:37:29

We have discovered another food epiphany. The melon bun.

0:37:290:37:32

Well, let's face it, the only melon buns we've had in service stations

0:37:320:37:35

is after about 300 miles when you've got a bad saddle.

0:37:350:37:39

-Ooh!

-Me melon buns!

-Right, come on.

0:37:390:37:42

'Melon buns are similar to iced buns in the UK.

0:37:420:37:45

'An enriched dough with a sweet sugary topping.

0:37:450:37:49

'They're so-called because they look like melons.

0:37:490:37:52

'The question is what do they taste like?'

0:37:520:37:55

My mother-in-law's got a bathroom this colour.

0:37:550:37:58

If you crossed a sponge cake

0:38:050:38:09

with wallpaper paste and nail polish remover, you've got a melon bun.

0:38:090:38:14

Yeah, it's mingin'.

0:38:140:38:16

No, no, no. Don't be a cultural vandal.

0:38:160:38:19

No, no, it's not good, though, mate.

0:38:190:38:22

'Well, we are at a service station, Si.

0:38:220:38:24

'The one place, wherever you are in the world, where all bets are off

0:38:240:38:28

'when it comes to food, whatever it's made of!'

0:38:280:38:31

It's amazing to think that 150 years ago,

0:38:330:38:36

no-one ate meat at all here.

0:38:360:38:38

But everything changed at the end of the 19th century

0:38:380:38:41

when the Emperor was seen eating beef and Japan went meat mad.

0:38:410:38:45

-I mean, it's all right being vegetarian for a bit.

-Oh, yeah.

0:38:470:38:51

But, ironically, next door to vegetarianism is possibly

0:38:510:38:56

the world's greatest beef, the wagyu.

0:38:560:38:58

The wagyu in the region and principality of Kobe,

0:38:580:39:02

-and, listen, we've waited 20 years for this, dude.

-We have, we have.

0:39:020:39:05

I can't believe it.

0:39:050:39:06

None of this imported stuff that don't taste great.

0:39:060:39:09

This is it. The source of the boeuf Japanese.

0:39:090:39:12

The sauce of carnivorousness.

0:39:120:39:14

Oh, aye, the most expensive, precious, pampered beef in the world.

0:39:140:39:19

I wonder if it's true, Kingy,

0:39:190:39:21

that they feed them beer and they have to listen to opera

0:39:210:39:24

as they lie on silken mattresses and are massaged by sumo wrestlers?

0:39:240:39:28

-Of course it is, got to be.

-Yeah, it was worth the money.

0:39:280:39:32

'The word for cow in Japanese is wagyu

0:39:320:39:34

'and Kobe beef is said to be the finest wagyu in the world.'

0:39:340:39:37

Kobe is an important and busy port 50 miles south of Kyoto and is

0:39:380:39:43

world famous for its incredibly tender and expensive beef.

0:39:430:39:47

This heavily marbled, delicious and delicately flavoured meat

0:39:490:39:52

can cost, wait for it, thousands of pounds per kilo.

0:39:520:39:56

Oh, you can tell we're in the country now.

0:40:030:40:06

There's tractor shops, a smell of fried food in the air, and cow dung.

0:40:060:40:12

Perfect. Lovely.

0:40:120:40:14

-Got a whiff of manure then. Did you?

-Yeah.

0:40:160:40:19

'This is where you'd expect to see some cows in the fields, but, oh no!

0:40:210:40:25

'These cows are so precious they're not allowed outside!'

0:40:250:40:29

'Mr Takami and his son-in-law Mr Takaaki have been raising

0:40:350:40:39

'prize-winning Kobe beef for nearly 45 years.'

0:40:390:40:42

-Good morning.

-Good morning. How are you?

-Very nice to meet you.

0:40:430:40:46

-How are you, sir?

-Nice to meet you.

-Pleased to meet you.

0:40:460:40:49

-Good to see you.

-Thank you. It's wonderful to be here.

0:40:490:40:52

We've had several ambitions in Japan.

0:40:520:40:54

One was sushi at the fish market in Tokyo.

0:40:540:40:56

One was to find the best noodles, which we found in Fuji,

0:40:560:40:59

and the third was to taste real Kobe beef in Kobe.

0:40:590:41:04

'But before we're allowed anywhere near Mr Takami's precious cows,

0:41:040:41:08

'we need to be purified...again!'

0:41:080:41:10

Right, Kingy. Dirty boys go in disinfection booth.

0:41:110:41:15

Right, come on. Crack on.

0:41:150:41:17

-What do we do?

-I don't know.

0:41:170:41:20

-Smells of disinfectant, that's for sure.

-There's a button.

0:41:200:41:24

Don't press the button. Hold on.

0:41:240:41:27

It's not a button, it's a light. Push.

0:41:270:41:30

Oh, that's...

0:41:300:41:33

No, it's not doing anything.

0:41:330:41:36

There must be an on-button.

0:41:360:41:38

Oh, Japanese is confusing.

0:41:380:41:40

-Ah!

-Press a button.

0:41:400:41:43

I've had a vasectomy. I don't see why I need to be sanitised.

0:41:480:41:51

-Know what I mean?

-It's a mysterious country.

0:41:510:41:54

In England, we heard that the Kobe beef, it leads a life like a prince.

0:41:560:42:03

It's fed beer. It has massages every day.

0:42:030:42:06

It listens to opera music and it lies on a straw bed.

0:42:060:42:10

This is not true?

0:42:100:42:12

Yatte-nai desu.

0:42:120:42:16

-Nobody give it beer at all.

-No?

0:42:190:42:21

'I knew it was too good to be true!

0:42:340:42:36

'My dreams of pampered cows are falling apart around my ears

0:42:360:42:40

'or are they?'

0:42:400:42:42

So, look at this, Dave.

0:42:420:42:45

I'd eat that. It's like muesli.

0:42:450:42:47

What's in here? What's the recipe?

0:42:470:42:50

-This is grain. Wheatgrass.

-Yeah.

0:42:500:42:54

-And pineapple.

-Pineapple?

-Yeah.

0:42:540:42:57

-Pineapple did you say?

-Yes.

0:43:000:43:02

Wow, so what's the recipe?

0:43:020:43:05

-The recipe is top secret. I can't tell you.

-Go on.

0:43:050:43:10

-Go on, nobody'll know.

-No. No, no, no, no.

0:43:100:43:13

'I'll get it out of him. I'll play him Japanese opera till he cracks!'

0:43:130:43:17

And another story we believe is that people massage the beef

0:43:180:43:23

which makes for tender beef.

0:43:230:43:25

'Personally, I find that getting my hair brushed always puts me

0:43:460:43:49

'in a really good mood.

0:43:490:43:51

'Maybe there's something in it after all?'

0:43:510:43:53

-Si, he's loving that, isn't he?

-Yeah.

0:43:530:43:56

Maybe this is where the myth about massaging comes in.

0:43:560:43:59

'Well, Mr T's clearly doing something right, dude.

0:43:590:44:02

'Just look at all these awards!'

0:44:020:44:04

Oh, wow! Now that is a cabinet of gastronomic delight.

0:44:060:44:11

-It's a farm shop.

-It's a farm shop, Jim, but not as we know it.

0:44:110:44:14

This is fantastic.

0:44:140:44:17

'Kobe beef is graded according to how much fat there is

0:44:170:44:19

'marbling the meat.'

0:44:190:44:22

This one is the highest one.

0:44:220:44:26

This is Grade A512.

0:44:260:44:29

-So it's the top in every single category?

-Yes.

0:44:290:44:32

A512 is the best beef.

0:44:320:44:35

Do you want to see more?

0:44:350:44:38

Yes, please.

0:44:380:44:40

-Ah.

-Ah, wow.

0:44:400:44:43

What is the fat content of that, percentage?

0:44:430:44:46

-Er, almost 60.

-60%.

0:44:460:44:50

So that should be the most spectacular piece of beef

0:44:500:44:53

you've ever eaten because that's full of fat

0:44:530:44:56

and full of flavour theoretically.

0:44:560:44:58

I think that piece of beef retails for around about £3,000.

0:44:580:45:02

Yes, thank you. We'll just put that back.

0:45:020:45:04

Do you eat your own beef?

0:45:040:45:07

Mainichi tabemasu.

0:45:100:45:13

Almost every day.

0:45:130:45:14

-Do you want to cook some?

-Yes, please.

-We'd love to.

0:45:140:45:17

-This is a defining moment.

-I can't believe it, dude, it's here.

0:45:170:45:21

-This is a hat-trick, isn't it?

-Yes, it is.

0:45:210:45:23

-You know, the hat-trick. Sushi, noodles, wagyu beef.

-Get in!

0:45:230:45:28

More than that, Kobe beef from the farm that's had

0:45:280:45:31

awards for being the best beef in Japan.

0:45:310:45:34

-Doesn't get better than that, does it?

-Not for two daft northern lads.

0:45:340:45:37

-What privileged fellas we are.

-Thank you. Arigatou gozaimasu.

0:45:370:45:41

And what better way to show our gratitude

0:45:420:45:44

than to cook lunch for Mr T?

0:45:440:45:47

Let me introduce to you...

0:45:470:45:50

This isn't just like beef.

0:45:500:45:52

This is Mr Takami's finest beef

0:45:520:45:55

and within that there is some jeopardy and worry,

0:45:550:45:57

-because Mr Takami is going to taste what we do to his beef.

-Yes.

0:45:570:46:01

We're making sukiyaki, a Japanese stew made from thin strips of beef

0:46:010:46:06

with vegetables.

0:46:060:46:07

-Mate, are you ready?

-I'm ready.

0:46:070:46:09

-Remember the first cut is the deepest.

-You're not wrong, so...

0:46:090:46:13

-Happy?

-Oh, is it a nice slicer?

0:46:140:46:17

Mr T's come for a butchers, Kingy. No pressure!

0:46:170:46:21

What a lovely job, Kingy. Fine as a fine thing.

0:46:210:46:24

The meat is the star of this dish. Whatever else goes in is up to you.

0:46:240:46:29

Do you know what, it's a bit like a Japanese fridge clear-out.

0:46:290:46:34

You can put all manner of bits and pieces on it.

0:46:340:46:37

We've got mushrooms, celery, Chinese leaves, spring onions

0:46:370:46:40

and some bamboo shoots.

0:46:400:46:42

You can get bamboo shoots in tins at home

0:46:430:46:46

and some supermarkets have started selling it fresh.

0:46:460:46:49

And, of course, my new favourite food - tofu!

0:46:490:46:53

Mr Takami's had enough already.

0:46:540:46:57

-He's having a snooze.

-Aye.

0:46:570:47:00

I mean, it's not our scintillating conversation or what we're

0:47:040:47:07

doing with his produce that's sent him over the other side.

0:47:070:47:10

He gets more sense out of the cows.

0:47:100:47:13

And now the moment we've been waiting for!

0:47:130:47:17

Thin slices like these only need a couple of minutes on each side.

0:47:240:47:27

-Oh, Kingy, that looks good.

-Absolutely fantastic. Look at that.

0:47:270:47:32

-Beautiful, beautiful meat.

-Just sprinkle over some sugar.

0:47:320:47:35

-Yes.

-Little bit. Not much.

-Lovely.

0:47:350:47:39

This is just to help the caramelisation of the beef.

0:47:390:47:41

We need to turn that over again.

0:47:410:47:43

Set it aside. One.

0:47:430:47:45

Nice. Look at that. The sugar's given it a nice kind of bronzey hue.

0:47:470:47:52

Then add the rest of the ingredients to the same pan.

0:47:520:47:56

Thing is, it's just an organised stir-fry, isn't it?

0:47:560:47:59

I like that analogy, mate. I think you're dead right.

0:47:590:48:01

Just turn the tofu over, get a nice colour on it.

0:48:010:48:05

That tofu is going to take on all the flavours, that lovely beef

0:48:050:48:10

-and also the sauce.

-Oh, look at these shitake, Dave.

0:48:100:48:13

-I think this is done, you know.

-I think you're right.

0:48:130:48:17

-Right?

-Yeah.

0:48:170:48:18

Spoon over a couple of ladles of the sauce which is made from dashi,

0:48:180:48:22

a fish stock, and, of course, soy and mirin

0:48:220:48:25

before adding the beef back to the pan.

0:48:250:48:28

And that is our beef sukiyaki ready for serving.

0:48:280:48:33

You could definitely try this one at home with or without wagyu.

0:48:330:48:37

It's up to you! It's quick and easy to make and tastes delicious.

0:48:370:48:42

But, is it good enough to satisfy Mr Takami?

0:48:420:48:46

Come and taste. See what you think.

0:48:460:48:48

Oishii.

0:48:550:48:58

He says delicious.

0:49:000:49:01

-Great.

-Fantastic. Thank you, thank you.

0:49:010:49:03

Saikou!

0:49:030:49:05

CHEERING

0:49:050:49:07

We're back in Kyoto, the tourist capital of Japan.

0:49:110:49:14

Millions of people rock up here every year, mate, and no wonder.

0:49:140:49:18

The city's packed with cultural delights.

0:49:180:49:21

We've done the monasteries so what's next in the guide book, Kingy?

0:49:210:49:25

The Man In The Moon Irish pub! They get everywhere, don't they?

0:49:270:49:30

DAVE LAUGHS

0:49:300:49:32

You do get the feeling in Kyoto that you could take part

0:49:320:49:35

in an ancient ceremony of tea-drinking, but also, if you

0:49:350:49:41

wanted to have an ultra-modern cup of coffee, that's there as well.

0:49:410:49:46

-Oh, wow. It's a geisha?

-Yeah.

0:49:460:49:52

I'd never know how to walk in four-inch platforms though.

0:49:540:49:57

No.

0:49:570:49:58

Noddy Holder managed it though.

0:49:580:50:01

Yeah.

0:50:010:50:02

In Kyoto, fully fledged geisha are called geiko

0:50:020:50:06

and trainees are called maiko.

0:50:060:50:08

The city's 200 geiko

0:50:080:50:10

are committed to keeping this 300-year-old tradition alive.

0:50:100:50:14

I'm going to experience something truly elegant,

0:50:150:50:18

historic and beautiful.

0:50:180:50:20

We're going for a night out with the maiko.

0:50:200:50:23

Now, these women studied the nuances of their culture,

0:50:230:50:27

and the ceremonies therein,

0:50:270:50:29

to make travellers like Dave and I welcome.

0:50:290:50:31

The maiko will become a geiko,

0:50:310:50:34

which is the geisha of Kyoto.

0:50:340:50:37

Now, there's been a lot of controversy over the years

0:50:380:50:41

about what exactly the role of a Geisha is,

0:50:410:50:43

but today they're very much a legitimate part

0:50:430:50:46

of the hospitality and tourist industry.

0:50:460:50:48

-It's great.

-It's elegant, simple, wonderful.

0:50:490:50:53

Not many people live in traditional houses in Japan any more,

0:50:530:50:56

so teahouses like this

0:50:560:50:58

offer the chance to see ancient costumes and rituals in action.

0:50:580:51:02

Konnichiwa.

0:51:030:51:05

-SHE SPEAKS IN JAPANESE

-Good evening.

0:51:050:51:08

Thank you for coming.

0:51:080:51:10

BOTH: Well, thank you for having us.

0:51:100:51:12

'A geiko's job is to act as a hostess.

0:51:120:51:15

'They serve food and drink, and entertain their clients

0:51:150:51:18

'by performing traditional music, dances and games.'

0:51:180:51:22

What I'm finding remarkable, as I'm sure Dave is,

0:51:220:51:25

is that it's still living and breathing and it's still here

0:51:250:51:30

and it's still part of Japanese culture.

0:51:300:51:32

-Yes, as you see.

-Absolutely.

0:51:320:51:35

'Tomitae is one of Kyoto's 70 maiko.

0:51:350:51:38

'She's chaperoned by Reiko Tomimori,

0:51:380:51:41

'a geiko mother who oversees her apprenticeship.'

0:51:410:51:44

Why did this lady want to be a maiko?

0:51:440:51:47

TOMITAE SPEAKS IN JAPANESE

0:51:470:51:51

When she was little

0:51:560:51:58

she loved to wear kimono

0:51:580:52:02

and also she loved traditional Japanese music.

0:52:020:52:06

How long is the training?

0:52:060:52:08

SHE SPEAKS IN JAPANESE

0:52:080:52:10

-About five years before becoming a geiko.

-Five years?

-Wow.

0:52:100:52:14

Can it be a long career, being a geiko?

0:52:140:52:18

I mean, how old can you carry on working?

0:52:180:52:21

SHE SPEAKS IN JAPANESE

0:52:210:52:25

As long as she wants to.

0:52:250:52:27

Only one condition -

0:52:270:52:29

if she wants to get married, she has to retire.

0:52:290:52:33

'It costs about £2,000 a month to train a maiko.

0:52:330:52:36

'While they're apprentices, they get paid pocket money,

0:52:360:52:40

'but once they've graduated,

0:52:400:52:41

'being a geiko can be a very lucrative career.'

0:52:410:52:45

'We're being treated to a Japanese banquet called kaiseki.

0:52:470:52:51

'It has up to 16 courses

0:52:510:52:53

'and dates back to the days when Kyoto was the imperial capital.

0:52:530:52:57

'This meal is more than just food -

0:52:570:52:59

'the geiko turn the whole experience into theatre.'

0:52:590:53:02

-I've never felt so pampered in my life.

-It's marvellous, isn't it?

0:53:040:53:08

THEY SPEAK IN JAPANESE

0:53:080:53:11

-That is good sake.

-Oh, I see, so...

0:53:160:53:19

Every time you drink it,

0:53:190:53:21

very kindly the ladies fill it up.

0:53:210:53:23

So if we... Could we put that down here now and then start to eat?

0:53:230:53:27

Yes, please! I'm sorry, I should have...

0:53:270:53:30

Cos I'm going to end up very cross-eyed very quickly!

0:53:300:53:33

The kaiseki banquet includes raw fish or sashimi,

0:53:330:53:37

pork belly, local vegetables and tempura.

0:53:370:53:41

-Oh.

-Mmm.

0:53:410:53:43

-Oh, wow. This is lovely.

-It is.

0:53:460:53:49

Absolutely lovely.

0:53:490:53:50

Would you ask what is her daily routine.

0:53:510:53:57

SHE SPEAKS IN JAPANESE

0:53:570:54:00

She gets up at eight o'clock in the morning

0:54:040:54:07

and the first thing she does is comb her hair,

0:54:070:54:10

because this hair style is with her own hair.

0:54:100:54:15

So she goes to the hairdresser once a week

0:54:170:54:20

so she has to maintain the style.

0:54:200:54:22

For example, that the hair accessory changes every month.

0:54:220:54:26

So this month the young maiko

0:54:260:54:30

has to wear the weeping willow for six days.

0:54:300:54:34

-Six days?!

-Yes.

0:54:340:54:36

'While we're eating, we're treated to a traditional fan dance.

0:54:360:54:40

'The term maiko translates literally as "dance child".'

0:54:400:54:44

MUSIC PLAYS

0:54:440:54:46

You know, Si, what this experience is like,

0:54:540:54:56

it's like a good piece of classical music, classical opera.

0:54:560:55:00

It's where all the arts come together

0:55:000:55:02

to be something truly fantastic.

0:55:020:55:04

You know, there's the food, the music,

0:55:040:55:07

the theatre, the spectacle.

0:55:070:55:09

-Yeah.

-All done with quite a lot of gravitas.

0:55:090:55:12

It's just lovely, cos it's a layered art form, isn't it?

0:55:120:55:16

-Yes.

-That's what we're in receipt of, and that's a remarkable thing.

0:55:160:55:20

THEY SING 'And when we've finished, we play parlour games,

0:55:240:55:28

'which might look innocent but have a hidden agenda -

0:55:280:55:31

'involving yet more sake!'

0:55:310:55:33

SHE SINGS

0:55:330:55:36

Ah!

0:55:360:55:38

-You have to drink.

-Oh.

0:55:390:55:42

I lost.

0:55:420:55:43

This is so much better than darts.

0:55:430:55:45

SHE SPEAKS IN JAPANESE

0:55:490:55:51

She said you are very strong, handsome and very cool.

0:55:530:55:58

-That's very nice, yes.

-Never mind, never mind, you'll be all right.

0:55:580:56:01

That might be gilding the lily a bit.

0:56:010:56:03

'Next up is a medieval fan-throwing game called tosenkyo.

0:56:030:56:07

'As far as I can make out,

0:56:070:56:09

'it's like Pass The Pigs - but with fans.'

0:56:090:56:12

-Is this a drinking game as well?

-Is it a drinking game?

0:56:120:56:16

This is not a drinking game.

0:56:160:56:17

You go first.

0:56:170:56:20

Oh, that's loads.

0:56:220:56:24

THEY LAUGH

0:56:280:56:30

Ooh! See, see!

0:56:310:56:34

Ah, leave us hanging.

0:56:350:56:37

Keep me dignity, Dave. This is not football.

0:56:370:56:39

Can I ask you, Tomitae,

0:56:390:56:42

what's your favourite rock'n'roll band?

0:56:420:56:46

SHE TRANSLATES

0:56:460:56:49

What's your favourite pop music?

0:56:490:56:51

-Lady Gaga.

-Lady Gaga.

0:56:510:56:53

-Lady Gaga?

-Lady Gaga!

0:56:550:56:57

Do you like the Scorpions? SIMON SIGHS

0:56:570:56:59

No, they're big in Japan.

0:56:590:57:01

Yeah, yeah, yeah, only in your head!

0:57:010:57:03

What do we do now?

0:57:110:57:12

-I tell you what I'd like you to do now.

-What?

0:57:120:57:15

Can you get us out of this position? I tell you what, it's murdered me.

0:57:150:57:19

Would you mind? I'm a bit stuck.

0:57:190:57:23

'This road trip through Japan

0:57:230:57:25

'has exceeded all our expectations.'

0:57:250:57:28

We've waited 20 years to come to Japan.

0:57:280:57:30

It's blown me mind, dude.

0:57:300:57:32

It's absolutely blown me mind,

0:57:320:57:34

it's been everything and more

0:57:340:57:35

that I could ever have dreamt of and ever wished for. What about you?

0:57:350:57:39

I thought that I knew about Japanese food,

0:57:390:57:41

I've learnt a lot off the internet,

0:57:410:57:43

through going to restaurants, eating loads of takeaways.

0:57:430:57:46

But it's not the case.

0:57:460:57:48

-The Japanese food I've found here is very different.

-Yes, it is.

0:57:480:57:51

It's a lot purer, it's a lot more gentle,

0:57:510:57:53

and it's a lot more sophisticated,

0:57:530:57:55

and I think at home we've got a lot more to learn.

0:57:550:57:57

For me, as a cook, it's just blown the bloomin' doors off!

0:57:570:58:01

Oh, it's blown my mind, dude. Absolutely amazing.

0:58:010:58:04

Amazing cultural experience and great food.

0:58:040:58:07

A little cultural good-night sake?

0:58:070:58:09

-I think so, should we?

-Yes!

-Let's go.

0:58:090:58:13

'Next time, we're in Korea

0:58:130:58:14

'for Asian fried chicken...'

0:58:140:58:16

It can't be unhealthy. Anything that good can't be bad for you.

0:58:160:58:20

'..some popular culture...'

0:58:200:58:22

# Gangnam style! #

0:58:220:58:24

'..and a glimpse into the future!'

0:58:240:58:27

-ROBOT:

-I will chop it.

0:58:280:58:29

Just put the knife down. There's no need to be violent.

0:58:310:58:33

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