South Korea The Hairy Bikers' Asian Adventure


South Korea

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Transcript


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'We've packed our passports.'

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'And bought our phrase books.'

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HE SPEAKS JAPANESE

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'Because we're off on our biggest, craziest adventure yet.'

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ALL: Delicious. Delicious. Meow, meow, beep.

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HE ROARS LIKE TARZAN

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'We're travelling further than we've ever done before.'

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'To uncover the authentic roots

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'of Britain's favourite takeaway foods.'

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I've always wanted to know how to make proper sweet and sour sauce.

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'Going off the beaten track

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'and being welcomed into some of Asia's hidden worlds.'

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How marvellous is this?

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'From the high rises and hot woks of Hong Kong...'

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The heat on this is really, really intense,

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but listen, it's like a jet engine.

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GAS ROARS

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I love it!

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'..To the sweltering tropics of Thailand.'

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We love a tuk-tuk.

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'Where they say it's impossible to eat badly.'

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Thai food's arrived in Britain,

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but by crikey, it's only the tip of the iceberg.

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'And we fulfil a lifelong ambition to explore Japan.'

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That is perfect.

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Wow, look at that.

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I've just had a sushi-gasm.

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'We finish up in South Korea. Where the spicy cuisine is sensational.'

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This would go down a bomb down the local.

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'So leather up and take to the road.'

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'For one extremely hairy...'

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BOTH: 'Asian Adventure.'

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Look at that, Si.

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-Wow.

-Seoul.

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The capital city of South Korea,

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home to more than 10.5 million inhabitants.

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-It's all kind of surrounded by mountains, isn't it?

-Yeah.

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In fact, South Korea has a massive mountain range that runs the length

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of the country, as well as stunning forests and a dramatic coastline.

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The Korean peninsula is bordered by China and Russia to the North

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and the Yellow Sea to the South.

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It's a tantalisingly unexplored slice of East Asia.

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But what do we know about Korean food?

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Well in the UK, precious little. But it's coming.

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In the UK already there are more than 50 Korean restaurants.

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This exciting cuisine is gaining popularity fast,

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and with good reason.

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It's the spiciest in Asia, with chilli a key ingredient.

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And boy do they love a pickle - thanks to their long cold winters,

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they've learnt to preserve pretty much anything!

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They love their meat too - they inherited a huge

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appetite for beef from the Mongols who invaded in the 13th century.

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You're getting me all excited!

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We'd best get on our bikes and see what this country has to offer.

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You know, Kingy, Korea was all one country as recently

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as the 20th century.

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Oh, look, the Royal Palace. Ah, it's beautiful, isn't it?

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It was divided up after World War II - with the United States

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backing the South, and the Soviet Union the North.

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In 1950 the North invaded and for three years the South Koreans,

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plus nearly 2 million American troops, fought back.

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Ah, mate, this is the old part here, isn't it?

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And this is the only part that survived the war.

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The war brought intense poverty. But in the 1970s,

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government schemes kick-started massive industrial growth and

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an export economy - and the South Koreans haven't looked back since.

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In just 40 years they've gone from being one of the poorest

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to one of the world's richest countries.

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Now South Korea has the 13th largest economy on the planet

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and exports billions of pounds worth of cars and computers.

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Here in Seoul, 1-in-80 people is a millionaire.

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MUSIC: "Gangnam Style" by Psy

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# Gangnam style... #

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You know, Si, these folk have experienced such rapid change,

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I'm keen to find out what that's meant for their cuisine.

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Ah, now we're in the area where all the young, hip folk hang out.

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But nobody's over 30.

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Yeah, and before we find out about their traditional dishes,

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I want to know what's popular in Korean food now.

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So we're heading for the hip district of Hongdae,

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an area packed with bars and restaurants.

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Now, Koreans are known as the Irish of Asia for their love,

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if you like, of a big night out.

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They're also known as the Italians of Asia

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for their fiery and exuberant personalities.

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We're meeting two locals who've offered to give us

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a tour of some of their favourite eateries.

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Teacher Keith and his actress friend Song-a-Min,

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they run a blog about life in Seoul in their spare time.

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What a great vibe here, so what is this area?

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-It's lovely, isn't it? Gentle.

-Yeah, it is.

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This area's called Hongdae and Hongdae is basically a college town.

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But it's... Hongdae is the name of a university here,

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and it's an art university, it's hers.

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-See that white building.

-That's the university?

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-Yeah, that's my university there.

-Really, you haven't to move far.

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Lots of clubs, lots of bars, lots of restaurants, 24 hours,

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lots of sub-culture as well.

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I see a lot of parallels between this area

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and Barrow-in-Furness where I live.

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It's that kind of chic, artistic,

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community bar on every corner, kind of vibe.

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I'm really loving it.

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SHE LAUGHS

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And our first stop is a type of Korean food that's just

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starting to take off in the UK - Korean barbecue.

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Here in Seoul, you find places like this on almost every street corner.

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You see, I think this is fantastic.

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It's basically the most popular Korean food there is.

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The reason being is because people eat it for dinner,

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it's pretty much eaten from noon until like, 4.00 or 5.00am.

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No meal here is complete without an array of banchan, or side dishes.

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They're normally pickles, stir fries or broths.

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-Oh, wow.

-Now that's a nice piece of rib-eye.

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That's beautiful.

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You don't cut? You just put the whole thing on and then cut it up?

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Yeah, the whole thing on.

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Put the whole thing on, let it grill and then....

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Then after you cut it.

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Korea's rulers in the Middle Ages frowned on vegetarian Buddhists,

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so Koreans eat more meat than their Asian neighbours.

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In fact, there's no word for vegetarian in Korean.

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Koreans like their meat lean,

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marinated in soy sauce and sesame oil,

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and cooked by way of a table-top grill with a mini extractor fan.

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It's like a mega fondue, of carnivorous proportions.

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We share the same soup, and share the same meat.

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-That's fabulous.

-Another thing about Korean culture

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is that we all share this in one bowl.

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Oh, that's lovely, what a lovely thing to do.

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So it feels like we're one family, right?

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What's Korean barbecue etiquette?

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You get these different kind of leaves.

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-Oh, right. So you stack your leaves.

-In here.

-Yeah.

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And you put all the vegetables on your table one by one.

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So you put it like that.

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-And here.

-Fantastic.

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OK, you can try.

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How is it?

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It's OK?

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-Ah, brilliant.

-That's beyond OK.

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The leaf it's wrapped in is an Asian herb called Perilla,

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which has a hint of mint.

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-Whoa! This is seriously tasty.

-Epic.

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Keith is one of Seoul's growing army of private tutors

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who are popular with parents who want to give their children

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the opportunities that they didn't have.

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I teach at an after-school programme.

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It starts at five o'clock and ends at ten.

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Wow.

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Yeah, students do that all the time.

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After they finish school, they go to an academy for English.

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-Yes.

-Stay for a couple of hours,

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then they'll go to a maths academy in the same day.

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They'll finish around 10 or 11,

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go home and do their homework,

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finish around like 2, 3am, start all over again.

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-Yeah.

-That's insane.

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My academy, when I went to high school, it finished at 2am.

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-2am.

-And I had to school at seven o'clock in the morning.

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So the kids would have five hours' sleep.

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74% of all pupils here have private after-school tutors.

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Korean students consistently outperform those from

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other countries in maths.

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So do you guys wish there were more Korean restaurants back at home?

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Yeah. Definitely.

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When you want something hearty and lovely and tasty,

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share with your friends.

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It's fabulous and the meat quality is superb.

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Oh, it is, absolutely

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Korean food round one - a massive meat feast! Result.

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And the night begins.

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And for round two

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we've been promised South Korea's most popular takeaway.

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Yeah, so have you guys had Korean fried chicken?

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-No.

-But we've heard about it.

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So is this something that the Koreans managed to

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steal from the Americans?

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-Yes, absolutely.

-And make better.

-Yes, absolutely.

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It is kind of, but it has a lot of flavours like onions, spicy,

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very Korean sauce.

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So you've nicked it from the States, brought it here, Korean-ised it...

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-Yes.

-And now the United States are going,

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we love what you've done with the chicken.

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Ah, brilliant, I can't wait to try this.

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OK.

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South Koreans' taste for fried chicken was

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heavily influenced by American culture in the 1950s.

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And these days, their version of this tasty Western treat

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-is flying out of the fryers.

-Oh, wow.

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Hello, Chef. May we enter the portals of crispiness?

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-Oh, yeah.

-Yeah, brill.

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THEY LAUGH

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South Koreans don't like oily food so they've developed a

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double-frying technique that renders out the fat in the skin.

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So you get a thin, crackly and almost see-through crust.

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Oh, look, it's been dipped in chillies

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-and all manner of good currying things.

-Oh, look at that.

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Oh, yes, please. Thank you.

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It's so hot.

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HE YELPS

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How is it?

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Oh, yeah.

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Oh, yeah. Oh, wow.

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-It's very good.

-It's sweet, it's spicy, it's juicy.

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Because the chicken is just steamed in that double-fried

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coffin of crumbs.

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You know, there's nothing mean or reserved about that, is there?

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Nothing at all. Particularly when I've just seen them

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put onion rings into the fryer with the same batter.

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THEY LAUGH

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And you know what the best part is, chicken like this,

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they deliver it to your house.

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It's a very big culture for chicken delivery,

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-chicken delivery is everywhere.

-They can deliver anywhere, any time.

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-To where? Like anywhere.

-Like 24 hours, any time.

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Like, if you're walking down the river

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and like, oh, you want to have a chicken,

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you go like, can you deliver to er-er-er bridge?

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"I'm under this bridge, come by me." And when they come, they'll

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give you a call, they'll look for you and then deliver it to you.

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What a service.

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When we first arrived in Korea, I thought the city was quite grey.

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-Yes, so did I.

-Found colour tonight.

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So have I, scratch the surface, boom-boom, shake the room.

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Yeah, that is absolutely stunning stuff. It's not greasy.

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It can't be unhealthy. Anything that good can't be bad for you...

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Once a week.

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Oh, I'm liking it here, Dave.

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A country that puts a spicy stamp on a western takeaway classic

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has got to be all right in my book.

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It must be so exciting to be young in South Korea today, Kingy.

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It seems like the land of opportunity.

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It's also the home of a massive music phenomenon, Korean pop,

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or K-Pop for short.

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You might even recognise the odd track.

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# Oppa Gangnam Style

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# Gangnam Style...

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Got to put shapes together! What are you doing?

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# Oppa Gangnam Style

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# Eh, sexy lady

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# Op, op, op, op

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# Oppa Gangnam Style

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# Eh... # MUSIC STOPS

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They've run out of batteries. Thank God for that.

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-What sort of dance is that?

-That is Gangnam Style.

-It's wrong.

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It's cool and funky and everybody's doing it.

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We've been invited to cook for K-Pop singer Jessica HO

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at the home of stylist Sarah and her husband, architect Jiwan.

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Jessica is a product of the hugely successful South Korean

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hit factory system.

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Now, what was that!

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# Oh, up on the roof... #

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'And what do you do when you meet a pop star?

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'Challenge them to a rap off, of course.'

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-You won.

-Ah, right.

-You won.

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-So scissors cut paper, right.

-Right. So I'll go first, aye?

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OK, you ready? Five seconds, stand by.

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He won and he's... Just let him go.

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La-la-la-la! It's fine.

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-HE RAPS:

-Me name is Dave and this Si

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We come here to cook some curry and pie

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The Koreans they like their chilli

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But wash your hands cos you get a red hot willy.

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-Korea!

-That's pretty good. That was freestyle.

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OK, well you've got to do, what do you want, 16ths?

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-OK, I'll just do like a five second thing, ready?

-Yeah!

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Ready?

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SHE RAPS: This one goes out to the bimbos

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Trying to copy my style, go to Kinko's

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Is your boy sweating me? Bingo

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I had your wally back little bow.

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THEY CHEER

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I lose.

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THEY LAUGH

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Dude, you've just got to work on your accent.

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That would have been smashing, but I've got to tell you,

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I think the lady wins.

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Yeah, I haven't got the attitude, have I, really?

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THEY CHEER

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Thank you.

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Can musicians make money here? How does it work?

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Definitely musicians can make money here.

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I mean, the K-Pop right now is so big and viral right now so...

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It's definitely a good opportunity right now for me.

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She's not wrong! K-Pop is one of Korea's biggest exports

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and worth hundreds of millions of dollars a year.

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They spend a lot of money as well,

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because they... How long have you been training?

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Er, for a really long time.

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Korea, they train a long time so artists can come into the company,

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like, ten years or seven years before they even debut.

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So they'll be practising dance,

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learn multiple languages like Japanese and English.

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And then debut.

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Oh, enough K-Pop already.

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It's time for us Hairy Bikers to make our K-cooking debut.

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We're going to do a spicy octopus stew,

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packed with the chilli kick Koreans love.

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This is just a tasty, fiery snack that a K-Popper would have

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when he's out on a night out to give you a bit of a lift.

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The old hips have gone, don't need replacing any more,

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-do you know what I mean?

-HE HUMS

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Can you stop? Will you get on with it?

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Yep, right. Octopus. Come on, Cedric.

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I'm preparing the baby octopus by removing the beak

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and separating the legs from the head.

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Whilst Dave deals with Cedric,

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I'm whipping up a spicy sauce for the stew.

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I'm taking a piece of root ginger about the size of a £2 coin,

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and I'm grating it into a bowl.

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I will then crush three cloves of garlic,

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and add to the same bowl as the ginger.

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Koreans love octopus and even eat it live,

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because they think it increases male stamina!

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I think with squid and octopus, when it's prepared properly

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it's one of the most delicious things,

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-when it's not prepared properly...

-It's minging.

-It's minging.

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There is nothing worse than a tough octopussy.

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It's horrible, it's like eating rubber bands.

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Ours however, we want to be K-Pop-tastic melt-in-your-mouthski.

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HE HUMS

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Now pop this in the boiling water for precisely 90 seconds,

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not a second more, not a second less, and go.

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Swim, Cedric, swim.

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Now it's not swimming, it's just bubbling in the boiling water.

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Now my sauce gets its fire.

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First, two teaspoons of chilli powder,

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then a key Korean ingredient - gochujang - or red pepper paste.

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The fermentation process mellows the hot flavours of fiery

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chillies mixed with rice, soybeans and salt.

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Koreans use it in everything.

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Then add a teaspoon each of soy sauce and mirin

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before adding a dollop of golden syrup for sweetness

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and mix it all together. Sauce done.

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Five seconds - four, three, two, one.

0:17:070:17:11

There you go. And that is your meat.

0:17:170:17:21

Dude, you're a star.

0:17:210:17:22

Thank you. Now to stop them cooking, put them in cold water.

0:17:220:17:26

Now all I want you to do now is to chop the tentacles

0:17:260:17:29

up into bite-sized pieces, take the skin off the head pieces

0:17:290:17:32

and Bob's your uncle. Juicy, juicy squid, ready to be cooked.

0:17:320:17:36

It's kind of like aquatic macaroni, isn't it, an octopus?

0:17:360:17:39

Yes, I suppose it is, dude, yeah.

0:17:390:17:40

But the skin, once it's been boiled, comes off quite easily.

0:17:400:17:45

Now it's fry-up time. You want half an onion.

0:17:450:17:48

Good sized slices.

0:17:480:17:50

Pop in the onion and saute.

0:17:500:17:53

After a minute, add five shiitake mushrooms.

0:17:530:17:57

Mushys go in.

0:17:570:17:58

Come on, Jessica, come and have a look at your dinner.

0:17:580:18:01

What are you cooking there?

0:18:010:18:03

Right, we've got some onions, some shiitake and we showed people

0:18:030:18:06

how to... We blanched the octopus, we prepped it so...

0:18:060:18:09

-In the pan.

-This goes in.

-Yep, quick. That's it, nice hot pan.

0:18:090:18:13

Then my red hot sauce goes in.

0:18:140:18:16

Looks really spicy.

0:18:160:18:18

So lastly, just pop in some more chillies...

0:18:180:18:21

some spring onions, quite big bits, a little splash of sesame oil.

0:18:230:18:27

There.

0:18:270:18:30

It's done. Shall I lift up the thing?

0:18:300:18:32

-Yeah. And that should taste...

-Smells really good.

0:18:320:18:36

Kind of fiery red and appetising. Bit of sesame seeds.

0:18:360:18:41

Right, guys.

0:18:410:18:43

This looks like, you know, Korean mother's style.

0:18:430:18:46

-Yeah, that's the sort of vibe.

-Korean mum.

-Well, yeah.

0:18:460:18:49

Is there a style thing with Korean mums?

0:18:490:18:51

Is it worth something to aspire to? The beard would have to go, perhaps.

0:18:510:18:55

You'd have to dye your hair black.

0:18:550:18:57

Fine.

0:18:570:18:58

THEY LAUGH

0:18:580:19:00

I can live with that.

0:19:000:19:01

Really nice.

0:19:070:19:09

Good.

0:19:100:19:12

Looks like our octopus stew isn't going to last for long.

0:19:120:19:15

Time to hit the road, mate.

0:19:230:19:24

There are three million vehicles on the streets of Seoul

0:19:240:19:27

and it feels like they're all out today.

0:19:270:19:29

Woo-hoo. Here we go.

0:19:290:19:32

I do have to say, Mr King, that the driving here has been

0:19:330:19:36

somewhat more aggressive than the rest of Asia.

0:19:360:19:39

Aye, you would.

0:19:390:19:40

Well, apparently, they have the most aggressive drivers in Asia, dude.

0:19:400:19:43

Yeah. Hurry, hurry, hurry, hurry, it's a way of life.

0:19:430:19:46

South Koreans are so crazy about rushing things that the term

0:19:460:19:49

"ppalli ppalli" - which translates as "hurry, hurry" -

0:19:490:19:52

is part of the national psyche here.

0:19:520:19:55

Mirror, signal, manoeuvre...and hope.

0:19:550:19:58

Well, it stems from the '70s when the president started

0:19:580:20:02

rewarding companies that built roads and bridges faster than scheduled.

0:20:020:20:05

You know, Kingy, I feel like we've seen the modern face of Seoul

0:20:100:20:13

but it's time to get to grips with more traditional South Korean food.

0:20:130:20:17

So there's only one place to go.

0:20:220:20:24

What we always say, when you arrive in a new city,

0:20:240:20:27

to get a flavour of the local food, the local people,

0:20:270:20:30

the only place really to go is the market.

0:20:300:20:33

And by heck, apparently they've got a belter in Seoul.

0:20:330:20:36

Yes, the Gwangjang Market in central Seoul has 5,000 stalls

0:20:360:20:41

selling all the Korean food you can think of.

0:20:410:20:44

Seoul chef Lucy is going to steer us around.

0:20:440:20:48

Oh, wow what's this?

0:20:480:20:50

This is the mung bean pancake.

0:20:500:20:52

Mung bean pancake was used as the base for the meat.

0:20:520:20:55

In old times, back in the days, these are only consumed by the workers.

0:20:550:21:00

The owners of a household will eat the meat

0:21:000:21:04

and all the juice of the meat will soak into the pancake

0:21:040:21:07

and then those are for the workers.

0:21:070:21:09

So the mung beans have basically been ground into a paste

0:21:090:21:12

which will form a batter, I guess. Is that the way it works?

0:21:120:21:15

The 17th century name for this dish means "poor person's pancake."

0:21:150:21:19

Mung beans are a staple here.

0:21:190:21:22

These pancakes are popular with Koreans of all social classes

0:21:220:21:25

who see them as a filling snack.

0:21:250:21:26

Let's share and tear.

0:21:280:21:30

-Thank you.

-Oh, hey.

0:21:320:21:34

-It's really tasty. It's filling, like a lot of humble food.

-Yeah.

0:21:350:21:39

But can you imagine it on a cold dreary, grey, winter's night.

0:21:390:21:42

This would go down a bomb down the local.

0:21:420:21:45

You know what, Dave, the way that this little number's meant to

0:21:460:21:50

soak up the meat juices reminds me of good old-fashioned Yorkshire pud!

0:21:500:21:54

Oh, crumbs, look at that, pickle central.

0:21:540:21:58

Koreans like toppings to perk up their pancakes and other dishes.

0:21:580:22:02

And that's where their super spicy range of pickles comes in!

0:22:020:22:06

So you can get your mung bean pancakes, then go here

0:22:060:22:09

and get your relishes.

0:22:090:22:11

Korean's have been pickling produce for over 1,000 years

0:22:110:22:15

to preserve it through their long, cold winters, when food was scarce.

0:22:150:22:18

Chilli was added to spice up the fermented fodder, and

0:22:180:22:22

they believe that the colour of the red chilli keeps bad luck at bay.

0:22:220:22:26

Korea is known for fermentations.

0:22:260:22:29

So these are sort of like soaked, raw crabs and soya beans.

0:22:290:22:33

I've never seen a pickled crab before.

0:22:330:22:35

It's really good. It's not pickled with vinegar,

0:22:350:22:38

it's pickled with, sometimes with pepper paste,

0:22:380:22:41

-or other things that really give it a deep flavour.

-Wow.

0:22:410:22:44

And one pickle in particular stands out.

0:22:460:22:48

Ah, kimchi!

0:22:480:22:50

Kimchi - or fermented cabbage - is the national dish of Korea

0:22:500:22:53

and a meal without it is unheard of.

0:22:530:22:56

You've got your mung bean pancake which is a big kind of...

0:22:560:22:59

It's like a duvet on your tummy. It's a big cuddle of food.

0:22:590:23:02

If you have that with a selection of these on the side,

0:23:020:23:05

you'd have a really, really good meal.

0:23:050:23:07

Now, lots of the Korean food we've tried so far

0:23:070:23:10

would be a massive hit with the Brits, but some of the more

0:23:100:23:12

exotic fare in this market, well, it might be a bit harder to swallow.

0:23:120:23:17

-What are they, Lucy?

-Silk worms.

-What?

0:23:170:23:19

You fry it and you just eat it as a snack.

0:23:190:23:21

-Maybe you should try.

-He loves things like that.

0:23:210:23:25

Get lost, you. It's always me.

0:23:250:23:27

Go on, I'll try one.

0:23:270:23:29

THEY SPEAK KOREAN

0:23:290:23:31

OK. Oh, you have to boil it.

0:23:310:23:33

DAVE AND SI: Oh, you have to boil it!

0:23:330:23:35

Oh, that's a lucky escape.

0:23:350:23:37

How do you boil it?

0:23:370:23:38

DAVE AND SI: W-WWoooooh! THEY ALL LAUGH

0:23:380:23:41

Korean boiling technique.

0:23:410:23:43

DAVE AND SI: W-WWoooooh!

0:23:430:23:44

Now we know that boiled silkworms might not float your boat.

0:23:440:23:48

But there is a Korean culinary classic

0:23:480:23:50

here that we are excited about.

0:23:500:23:52

It dates back to the late 1800s and it's got a brilliant name -

0:23:520:23:55

bibimbap.

0:23:550:23:57

Now bibimbap is the nation's favourite fast food

0:23:580:24:01

and it's gaining popularity in the West.

0:24:010:24:04

Yeah, well, it's said to be super healthy.

0:24:040:24:06

At all the Korean food wagons in Hollywood

0:24:060:24:08

it's said to be Gwyneth Paltrow's favourite.

0:24:080:24:10

And if it's good enough for healthy Gwyneth, it's good enough for us.

0:24:100:24:14

-It's like a culinary pick and mix.

-It is, it is, on a bed of rice.

0:24:140:24:17

You just pick whatever you like. Who wants to go first?

0:24:170:24:21

Well I think that, Mr Myers, you should go first.

0:24:210:24:23

Yes, I'm going to dedicate my bibimbap to Gwyneth.

0:24:230:24:26

-Are you?

-Yes, to the skinny bird with attitude.

0:24:260:24:29

First off, the rice.

0:24:290:24:31

'It's a nutritious dish of steamed rice mixed with as many side dishes

0:24:310:24:35

'as you can fit in your bowl.'

0:24:350:24:37

Soya bean sauce, red pepper paste and sesame. Thank you, thank you.

0:24:370:24:42

Let's see how healthy you go.

0:24:420:24:46

Lots of kimchi.

0:24:460:24:48

'Like the other Korean pickles, kimchi is packed with probiotics.'

0:24:480:24:52

-Right, Kingy.

-Right.

-You're on.

-What's this?

-Chives.

0:24:530:24:56

-Chives. I'm going to have some...

-Seaweed.

-Seaweed.

0:24:560:24:59

Now, what's this one?

0:25:010:25:04

-That's the radish vegetable, radish kimchi.

-Radish kimchi.

0:25:040:25:07

Well I'm going to go with the radish kimchi

0:25:070:25:09

and I want a piece of that, that black pudding.

0:25:090:25:12

Oh, you want?

0:25:140:25:15

No. Get in. I wouldn't pollute Gwyneth with black pudding.

0:25:150:25:19

Now look at that, it's vibrant, colourful and torrid.

0:25:190:25:23

Now, you see, you've got to get the mix of colours

0:25:230:25:25

and ingredients right.

0:25:250:25:27

The Korean philosophy on food is all about the balance for your soul.

0:25:270:25:31

Oh, this is good.

0:25:320:25:34

It's the flavouring, the rice, it's so moreish.

0:25:340:25:37

There is a feeling that there is health-giving properties

0:25:370:25:40

to the food that the Koreans eat.

0:25:400:25:42

What we think of is that each ingredient has its own nutrition,

0:25:420:25:45

but the combination of the ingredients is very important.

0:25:450:25:49

-Yes, I'm really enjoying this.

-Yes, it's really good.

0:25:490:25:52

Korean food's packed with vitamins and minerals.

0:25:520:25:56

Well, they have a saying here that,

0:25:560:25:58

"There's no better medicine than food" and that market proves it.

0:25:580:26:02

MUSIC: "Suicide Is Painless (Theme From MASH)"

0:26:070:26:11

You know, Kingy, Seoul's a very modern city,

0:26:110:26:14

but you can still see reminders of its troubled past.

0:26:140:26:17

I know, mate, and I always think of the American Army and MASH

0:26:170:26:20

when I think of the Korean war.

0:26:200:26:22

But almost 100,000 British troops served in it too.

0:26:220:26:25

It's kind of our forgotten war, isn't it?

0:26:270:26:30

And the threat from North Korea hasn't gone away.

0:26:300:26:33

The two sides are still officially at war,

0:26:330:26:36

with the North flexing its nuclear muscles as recently as 2013.

0:26:360:26:41

So it's no wonder that the US keeps nearly 30,000 troops on duty here,

0:26:410:26:46

while South Korea has more than 660,000 on active service

0:26:460:26:50

and one of the longest military conscriptions in the world -

0:26:500:26:54

a minimum of 21 months.

0:26:540:26:56

The Koreans have a long history of defending themselves.

0:27:000:27:03

In ancient times, they were masters of the bow and arrow.

0:27:030:27:06

What was once a necessary defence is now South Korea's national sport.

0:27:100:27:15

Archery to South Korea is what football is to the UK.

0:27:180:27:24

-They love it

-Yeah, but in the UK with our football,

0:27:240:27:28

sometimes it's a national disappointment.

0:27:280:27:30

But fortunately, the South Koreans are very good at archery.

0:27:300:27:33

In the London Olympics,

0:27:330:27:35

Korea walked away with three gold medals, didn't they?

0:27:350:27:38

Yep, broke two world records.

0:27:380:27:40

And one of participants in the archery competition that won

0:27:400:27:43

a gold medal was legally blind.

0:27:430:27:46

We've been offered a lesson from Kim Taesung -

0:27:460:27:49

the club secretary here at this Seoul archery range.

0:27:490:27:53

Now we've only agreed to take part on the condition we can,

0:27:530:27:56

well, get dressed up in full imperial regalia.

0:27:560:27:59

Do you want blue, goes with your eyes?

0:27:590:28:01

THEY LAUGH

0:28:010:28:03

Oh, missed me leaf. Right...

0:28:030:28:06

No... I... No.

0:28:060:28:09

Thank you. Stop there.

0:28:090:28:11

-You ready?

-I'm ready. OK.

0:28:130:28:16

Now, Korean kids start firing arrows at primary school,

0:28:160:28:20

and they train for up to two hours a day.

0:28:200:28:23

Right, gents, you're going to shoot from here.

0:28:230:28:26

And the best get talent-spotted in their teens and hope to be hired

0:28:260:28:30

by big South Korean firms, who all have company teams.

0:28:300:28:34

That's right, you get a salary and a pension

0:28:340:28:36

just for competing in the corporate league!

0:28:360:28:39

-But the arrow keeps slipping. Do I hook that there?

-No, no.

0:28:390:28:43

'I'm not known for my physical co-ordination, but here goes.'

0:28:430:28:47

So it's above your head. Stand like that.

0:28:480:28:51

Lower, lower, lower.

0:28:540:28:56

Oops.

0:28:560:28:58

-It was not...

-Did you get one?

0:29:030:29:07

Yeah. I missed the target but I got the knack.

0:29:070:29:09

It's not as simple.

0:29:090:29:11

I feel very noble, you know. I like Korea.

0:29:110:29:15

Yep.

0:29:150:29:16

'Now watch and learn, smiler, watch and learn.'

0:29:160:29:19

Lower bow.

0:29:200:29:23

Yes, that's about it. Let go.

0:29:230:29:25

Wow!

0:29:260:29:28

Hey, it's a good feeling, isn't it?

0:29:280:29:30

-Robin Hood.

-Dear me.

0:29:300:29:32

-Mr King!

-Fantastic.

0:29:320:29:35

Bloomin' heck!

0:29:450:29:46

DAVE LAUGHS

0:29:470:29:49

Kingy, I think you've found it.

0:29:490:29:52

Simon, don't go back.

0:29:520:29:53

Don't go back to England. You should stay in Korea.

0:29:530:29:57

OK, no, great. Yeah. No, that'll be all right.

0:29:570:30:00

The Korean national team. That was a bull's-eye!

0:30:000:30:03

Eee, how lovely.

0:30:040:30:06

Now we're starting to understand what it means to be Korean,

0:30:080:30:12

and I reckon it's time to try another recipe.

0:30:120:30:15

-Ooh, Kingy, I'm all of a quiver.

-Oh, dear me.

0:30:150:30:18

And we know there's an air of nobility about the cookery today.

0:30:180:30:20

There we are underneath a portrait of Emperor Gojong,

0:30:200:30:23

who is the man who was responsible for forming this archery club.

0:30:230:30:26

Indeed, this building is in the grounds of his Imperial Palace.

0:30:260:30:29

There's poetry, there's beauty.

0:30:290:30:31

And the arrow flies straight and swift.

0:30:310:30:34

And under these noble eaves, we'll be performing a two-hander.

0:30:340:30:38

One, a musaengchae salad made from the versatile Asian radish,

0:30:380:30:42

with a tangy, tasty dressing.

0:30:420:30:45

And the star of the show, a spicy beef yukhoe.

0:30:450:30:48

It's a traditional Korean dish,

0:30:480:30:50

a bit like the French steak tartare, made with raw beef.

0:30:500:30:53

-I love steak tartare.

-I do too.

0:30:550:30:58

It's brilliant. You get good beef, why bother cooking it?

0:30:580:31:00

It's spicy, it's hot, it's vibrant, everything you want on a plate.

0:31:000:31:03

You want to slice some of the finest beef fillet you can find

0:31:030:31:07

into long, thin ribbons.

0:31:070:31:09

And luckily for us, this country's got top-notch beef.

0:31:090:31:13

Make no mistake, this isn't a bowl of raw mince.

0:31:130:31:16

Sometimes when you have steak tartare it's all chopped,

0:31:160:31:18

we're not doing that here

0:31:180:31:20

because that's not the tradition in South Korea.

0:31:200:31:22

So that's the sort of thickness that you want.

0:31:220:31:25

And then with the back of your knife just put some pressure on it.

0:31:250:31:28

And then you should have perfect ribbons of beef.

0:31:280:31:31

Legend has it that the Tartars used to put rough beef under

0:31:330:31:36

the saddle of their horses. They would ride for miles and miles

0:31:360:31:38

and when they got to where they were going, the steak would be

0:31:380:31:41

so tender you could eat it raw. And then the steak tartare was born.

0:31:410:31:45

See that there, that's what we're after.

0:31:450:31:48

I'm making a dressing that will make the beef sing.

0:31:480:31:51

The first stage is crushing garlic, ginger and onion.

0:31:510:31:55

Very juicy.

0:31:560:31:57

There is pulp there but it's mostly kind of the juice and the flavour.

0:31:570:32:01

When you've got a paste, add four shredded spring onions.

0:32:010:32:05

This has to be fine enough so it disappears around Mr King's beef.

0:32:050:32:08

Next, our old Asian chums, soy sauce and sesame oil go in.

0:32:100:32:15

Then it's time for the key ingredient, Korean chilli powder.

0:32:150:32:19

Smell that. What does that remind you of?

0:32:190:32:22

It reminds me of smoked paprika.

0:32:220:32:24

Yeah. It really is wonderfully aromatic. Try two teaspoons.

0:32:240:32:29

Then add the same amount of sugar to balance and mix it up.

0:32:290:32:32

Right, so this goes in here like that

0:32:320:32:37

and we just break those ribbons up.

0:32:370:32:39

And coat every single strand and ribbon.

0:32:410:32:46

I think we're there, mate.

0:32:460:32:48

-I love this country.

-Mmm.

0:32:540:32:55

I mean, it's not so much a titillated taste bud

0:32:550:32:59

as a punch in the kisser.

0:32:590:33:00

We're serving the beef with salad leaves

0:33:000:33:02

and sticks of Asian pear for freshness.

0:33:020:33:06

We going ball or patty?

0:33:060:33:08

-Oh, ball. Height, height.

-Height, height, height.

0:33:080:33:10

Yeah, it worked for Gary Rhodes for 20 years, didn't it?

0:33:100:33:13

-Exactly that. There we are.

-Ah.

0:33:130:33:15

And as tradition dictates, a raw quail's egg on top.

0:33:170:33:21

And the final garnish. We sprinkle with some white sesame seeds.

0:33:210:33:25

That'll do.

0:33:250:33:27

-That is yukhoe.

-Tartare South Korean style.

0:33:280:33:32

I'm going to sit in a corner with this on my own.

0:33:320:33:35

-I tell you what you're going to do...

-You can do with salad.

0:33:350:33:37

You're going to whistle,

0:33:370:33:39

that's what you're going to do, cos you'll nang it.

0:33:390:33:41

I will, I will. I love this.

0:33:410:33:43

-Give it to me and you...

-Put it in the fridge?

-Start with the mooli.

0:33:430:33:46

Yeah, I'll go put it in the fridge.

0:33:460:33:49

HE CACKLES

0:33:490:33:51

< Myers!

0:33:510:33:52

Now the perfect partner for the beef, a mooli salad.

0:33:530:33:56

This humongous radish is also called a daikon.

0:33:560:34:00

It delivers a peppery hit a bit like watercress

0:34:000:34:03

and it's in loads of Korean dishes.

0:34:030:34:05

Korean people like to chew,

0:34:050:34:07

they like a bit of texture with their food.

0:34:070:34:09

So I'm going to do lots of thin slices first.

0:34:090:34:11

And there's a technique to this. What we do is,

0:34:110:34:14

you pile them up and then just lay it down like so.

0:34:140:34:18

So you see, it's all spread out in little slices. I start to...

0:34:180:34:22

-Genius.

-It is, isn't it? Who needs a food processor?

0:34:240:34:27

Add some sliced onions and salt to your radish sticks

0:34:270:34:30

and leave for ten minutes to draw out the moisture.

0:34:300:34:34

Now for the Korean-style salad dressing.

0:34:340:34:37

And it's a fishy one.

0:34:370:34:38

Start with some anchovy sauce,

0:34:390:34:41

then add sesame oil and a teaspoon of sugar.

0:34:410:34:45

You know, Hong Kong, wherever we've been,

0:34:450:34:47

there's always a tempering with the sweet and savoury.

0:34:470:34:50

Oh now the big stinker, Korean fermented shrimps.

0:34:500:34:53

-Lush.

-Wow.

0:34:530:34:54

And we want about a quarter of a teaspoon of that. Just a bit.

0:34:540:34:58

Then a dash of Korean apple vinegar, but you could use cider vinegar.

0:34:580:35:02

And some chilli powder.

0:35:020:35:04

So, really, it's more like a relish than a salad dressing.

0:35:050:35:09

Let's just try a teeny, teeny bit.

0:35:090:35:11

Boom!

0:35:130:35:14

Mix the dressing into the radish and add chopped spring onions.

0:35:140:35:19

And just pop those in.

0:35:190:35:20

I'm going to put this... Beautiful, look.

0:35:220:35:24

..Like that.

0:35:280:35:30

Light, pungent, with a bit of a kick.

0:35:300:35:33

-Time to feed the archers.

-I think so.

0:35:330:35:35

-Shall we pop it in the pagoda?

-Yeah, that'd be nice, wouldn't it?

0:35:350:35:39

Are you going to come to taste? Please, please. Lovely, thank you.

0:35:390:35:42

As well as our teacher, Kim Taesung,

0:35:420:35:44

we need to impress the club president, Lee,

0:35:440:35:47

and our fellow archer, Seo,

0:35:470:35:49

with our spicy beef tartare and radish salad!

0:35:490:35:52

Fingers crossed!

0:35:520:35:54

Yuk-ho? Yak-hoe?

0:35:540:35:55

-Yuk-hway.

-Yuk-hway.

0:35:550:35:57

It is good.

0:35:570:35:59

-Mmm.

-Yeah, good?

0:36:010:36:04

Wonderful.

0:36:040:36:05

-The hot spice comes through.

-Just a little, little, nice.

0:36:050:36:08

Afterwards.

0:36:080:36:09

Compares very well against the French version of steak tartare.

0:36:090:36:13

Oh, yeah, yeah.

0:36:130:36:15

-I think you can introduce this even in Paris.

-Thank you.

0:36:150:36:19

Thank you very much, that's very kind of you.

0:36:190:36:21

-I like it, everybody's come back for some.

-Yeah.

0:36:210:36:24

-What a great day!

-It was fab, wasn't it?

-Wasn't it?

0:36:250:36:28

And do you know, the archery club is a bit like going down

0:36:280:36:31

the golf club at home, except this is much more cool, I think.

0:36:310:36:34

And it's...people of all ages, all sexes, all come for a nice time

0:36:340:36:38

on a Saturday and they let us get involved. I loved it, Kingy.

0:36:380:36:42

It's great, archery, isn't it though?

0:36:420:36:44

-(Pooom.)

-(Pooow.)

0:36:440:36:46

Ooh, it's another hot day in the Seoul city.

0:36:520:36:56

Today we're going to take a trip to Seoul's North-eastern outskirts.

0:36:580:37:02

HORN BEEPS

0:37:020:37:04

Here we go, Kingy, the mighty Han river.

0:37:050:37:08

And the Han river has enormous significance to the

0:37:090:37:12

South Koreans, and they even call their economic recovery

0:37:120:37:17

"The miracle of the Han River."

0:37:170:37:19

South Korea's mighty economy is dominated by a handful

0:37:250:37:28

of massively successful technology firms.

0:37:280:37:31

There's no doubt that this country knows its onions

0:37:310:37:34

when it comes to gadgets.

0:37:340:37:36

So when we heard that university boffins here had developed

0:37:360:37:40

a robotic kitchen assistant, we had to wangle a rare invitation

0:37:400:37:44

into their labs to see it for ourselves.

0:37:440:37:46

-It's very, very quiet in here.

-There's no reception, is there?

0:37:510:37:55

Maybe she's the reception.

0:37:550:37:57

That can't be the reception, it's a head.

0:37:570:38:00

-Vision of tomorrow, today.

-That's true.

0:38:000:38:02

'Welcome to Korea Institute of Science and Technology.'

0:38:020:38:07

MUSIC: "Gangnam Style" by Psy

0:38:070:38:09

# Oppan Gangnam Style

0:38:090:38:11

Will you stop it!

0:38:110:38:12

# Op, op, op

0:38:120:38:15

# Oppan Gangnam Style

0:38:150:38:17

# Eh, sexy lady

0:38:170:38:19

# Op, op, op, op

0:38:190:38:21

# Eh, sexy lady

0:38:210:38:23

# Jeongsukhae boijiman nol ttaen noneun yeoja... #

0:38:230:38:26

MUSIC STOPS

0:38:260:38:28

You always get a dance with a robot, she never says no.

0:38:310:38:34

'Please go up the stairs to the second floor.

0:38:340:38:37

'Ciros is waiting for you. Have a great time.'

0:38:370:38:41

-She's got lovely eyes.

-Oh, get on.

0:38:410:38:43

Wow, look at these, Kingy.

0:38:450:38:49

Like something from Space Family Robinson, aren't they?

0:38:490:38:52

Oh, yeah.

0:38:540:38:55

'Frank's our interpreter for our foray into the future.'

0:38:550:38:59

-Hello.

-Hello. Oh, wow.

0:38:590:39:01

Ciros is Korea's first walking, talking culinary computer.

0:39:020:39:07

What's the reason for all this Perspex?

0:39:070:39:11

It's for our safety precautions because they use a knife.

0:39:110:39:15

Eventually they want to make it

0:39:150:39:17

-so that it can help out the families in the households.

-Right.

0:39:170:39:21

-Oooh!

-Ooh!

-Steady on, son, steady on.

0:39:230:39:26

'From now on, I'll make a sound.'

0:39:260:39:28

You look like you're going to strangle me.

0:39:280:39:30

This metal masterpiece has been in development for eight years.

0:39:300:39:34

'I'm looking for a knife.'

0:39:340:39:37

That's what Jack the Ripper said!

0:39:370:39:40

Ciros is five foot three, weighs 150kg and is kitted out

0:39:400:39:45

with stereoscopic cameras, laser range finders and infra-red sensors.

0:39:450:39:51

A robot with a knife.

0:39:510:39:52

'I'll chop up a cucumber.'

0:39:520:39:53

Here he goes, look at this, look at this.

0:39:530:39:56

'Cucumber is here.'

0:39:560:39:57

Ah, that's not a cucumber.

0:39:580:40:00

THEY LAUGH

0:40:000:40:02

It's brilliant, isn't it?

0:40:070:40:09

'I'll chop it.'

0:40:090:40:11

It's very elegant.

0:40:210:40:23

Now as well as slicing veg very, very slowly,

0:40:230:40:26

apparently Version Three can also serve tea and stack a dishwasher.

0:40:260:40:30

-Just put the knife down.

-Put the knife down.

0:40:330:40:36

No need to be violent. Put the...

0:40:360:40:38

Cyril, put the knife... Ciros, put the knife down.

0:40:380:40:41

'I'll try dressing.'

0:40:440:40:46

-Whoa!

-Whoa. Steady. Oh, God!

0:40:490:40:52

-Bit heavy on the old dressing there.

-Tomatoes will mop it up.

0:40:520:40:57

'I'll put the tomatoes in salad.'

0:40:570:41:00

-Tom-ah-to. It's tom-ah-to.

-Tom-ah-to.

-Not tom-ayto.

0:41:000:41:03

'I'll be tired and take a break.'

0:41:120:41:14

-Dave.

-Hello.

-Dave.

-Yeah?

-Leg it.

0:41:170:41:20

Maybe we've overloaded poor Ciros' circuits, you know.

0:41:210:41:24

I'm realising that so much of the movement,

0:41:240:41:27

so much of the duties and tasks that we take for granted

0:41:270:41:30

are really, really difficult to replicate.

0:41:300:41:33

-And, you know, I think our jobs are safe.

-Absolutely.

0:41:330:41:36

You know, Kingy, it's striking how forward-thinking South Korea

0:41:360:41:40

and its people are.

0:41:400:41:42

But they still have a lot of respect, don't they,

0:41:420:41:44

for ancient traditions, particularly when it comes to food.

0:41:440:41:48

And there's one national dish we saw in the market earlier

0:41:480:41:51

and need to investigate further.

0:41:510:41:53

CRICKETS CHIRRUP

0:41:530:41:55

By 'eck, the crickets are kicking off, aren't they?

0:41:550:41:57

-Cicadarooney!

-Aye.

0:41:570:41:58

But, you know, Korean food is famous for its side dishes

0:41:580:42:01

and there's one that's served with absolutely everything.

0:42:010:42:04

That's kimchi. Well, fermented pickled cabbage to you and me.

0:42:040:42:07

And still, 50% of all Koreans make their own.

0:42:070:42:12

And we've been invited to a family home to learn a recipe that's

0:42:120:42:15

been passed down from mother to daughter for generations.

0:42:150:42:19

Eat kimchi and live forever.

0:42:200:42:22

We're visiting mother-of-two Erin, who lives in Seoul's Singpa district -

0:42:260:42:29

an area popular with families.

0:42:290:42:31

Erin learnt how to make kimchi from her grandma,

0:42:340:42:37

Mrs Cho, and they've agreed to let us in on the secret family recipe.

0:42:370:42:42

It's her role to make kimchi for our whole family.

0:42:420:42:45

It takes a whole two days to make the kimchi.

0:42:450:42:49

Do you make enough kimchi to last one year?

0:42:490:42:51

-Yeah, almost.

-Wow.

0:42:510:42:53

Kimchi-making is still a major annual event for Korean families,

0:42:530:42:57

who gather in the autumn to pickle and ferment their cabbage.

0:42:570:43:00

I don't see my grandma as often as when I was young,

0:43:010:43:03

but on the kimchi day we get together.

0:43:030:43:06

SHE SPEAKS KOREAN

0:43:060:43:08

Mrs Cho starting sitting down. As soon as we started to

0:43:080:43:11

talk about the kimchi, she's like, "Ooh, hold on a minute."

0:43:110:43:15

THEY LAUGH

0:43:150:43:17

OK. So how do we start? All right, here's Grandma, here she is.

0:43:170:43:21

Kimchi is part and parcel of being Korean.

0:43:230:43:26

People even say "kimchi" when they have their photograph taken.

0:43:260:43:29

You don't mess with Mrs Cho, that's it.

0:43:310:43:34

Do as you're told or you're up for it.

0:43:340:43:37

Good cabbage, aren't they?

0:43:370:43:39

First, you soak it in salt water.

0:43:390:43:41

The salt is what pickles the cabbage,

0:43:410:43:43

the fermentation happens later.

0:43:430:43:45

Erin soaked some earlier so the next stage is to pack rock salt

0:43:460:43:50

into the thicker parts of the cabbage.

0:43:500:43:53

-It takes all day, doesn't it?

-Yeah.

0:43:530:43:55

Did you ever have pickling days at home when you were a kid, Si?

0:43:550:43:58

Pickling onions, pickling spices, piccalilli.

0:43:580:44:00

Yeah. Jam days as well. Pickled, yeah.

0:44:000:44:03

SHE SPEAKS KOREAN

0:44:030:44:05

You wait for a few more hours and then rinse again.

0:44:050:44:08

-It's like rubbing through your socks.

-It is.

0:44:080:44:11

Yeah, it's just kind of doing laundry.

0:44:110:44:14

-OK?

-OK.

0:44:140:44:16

THEY CHEER

0:44:160:44:18

Never has the humble cabbage had so much attention lavished to it.

0:44:190:44:23

Now it's time to get down and dirty and make the sauce,

0:44:250:44:28

starting with spring onions, garlic and ginger.

0:44:280:44:31

Oh, wow. It's going to be so fragrant, isn't it?

0:44:310:44:34

Oh, fabulous.

0:44:340:44:36

-You can see it's still a floor-based society, isn't it?

-Yeah.

0:44:360:44:40

Granny Cho's recipe includes this whopping white radish

0:44:400:44:43

and some preserved shrimp.

0:44:430:44:45

According to the Seoul Museum of Kimchi,

0:44:450:44:47

and there is one, there are 187 different recipes,

0:44:470:44:51

and some of those include live prawns and octopus!

0:44:510:44:54

You don't need a mixer when you've got Mrs Cho.

0:44:540:44:57

And this family recipe has fruit in too.

0:44:570:45:00

And these are like the oriental pears which look like a big apple.

0:45:000:45:03

-Yeah, this one, we juice the pears.

-Pear juice, yeah.

0:45:030:45:06

So that adds a note of sweetness.

0:45:060:45:09

This is the Korean chilli powder. Whoa.

0:45:090:45:12

It's Korean chilli powder that gives kimchi its killer kick.

0:45:120:45:17

There's a lot going on.

0:45:170:45:19

The chilli is so powerful we need gloves for protection.

0:45:210:45:25

So we're straight in.

0:45:250:45:26

It's obviously not hot enough, more chilli powder's just gone in.

0:45:300:45:34

-Smells fantastic.

-Doesn't it?

0:45:340:45:36

Taste it.

0:45:360:45:38

Try another bit.

0:45:400:45:42

It's a bit hotter.

0:45:460:45:47

THEY LAUGH

0:45:470:45:49

Splendid.

0:45:490:45:51

I could give you a glass of water.

0:45:510:45:53

No, it's all right. It's fine.

0:45:530:45:55

I think my hair's started to grow again.

0:45:550:45:58

Kimchi's powerful stuff

0:46:000:46:02

and it gets stronger still after it's fermented -

0:46:020:46:04

when the bacteria convert sugars to lactic acid,

0:46:040:46:07

giving it a sharper taste.

0:46:070:46:10

Not a lot of people in the younger generation has all this,

0:46:100:46:13

you know, equipment for the kimchi. She's really proud.

0:46:130:46:18

SHE SPEAKS KOREAN

0:46:180:46:20

Pat on the back. Pat on the back from Grandma. Well done.

0:46:200:46:23

Oh, look, and there's the great-granddaughters.

0:46:240:46:27

That's the future of kimchi.

0:46:270:46:29

Now we need to stuff the cabbage with the sauce, leaf by leaf.

0:46:310:46:35

-There's too much.

-Too much, sorry.

0:46:370:46:41

There's no stopping your grandmother, is there?

0:46:430:46:46

Yeah, no.

0:46:460:46:47

Cos every... You know, she's not young any more

0:46:490:46:53

and when we make kimchi, really, I want her to stop

0:46:530:46:56

and just let me do it, but she won't let me.

0:46:560:46:59

-How old is your grandmother?

-She's 81.

0:46:590:47:02

81. I tell you what though, she's so agile.

0:47:020:47:06

She's an advert for kimchi eating.

0:47:060:47:08

-Dear me, isn't she just?

-Oh, aye.

0:47:080:47:10

Kimchi is low in calories, high in fibre, iron and vitamins.

0:47:110:47:15

Ah, I see, yeah.

0:47:160:47:18

Kimchi used to be stored in clay pots in the ground, you know.

0:47:180:47:21

So, after one month, there's treasure in that box.

0:47:210:47:24

But these days, most Koreans keep it in a specially-designed

0:47:240:47:28

kimchi fridge which keeps the temperature between

0:47:280:47:31

nought and two degrees Celsius.

0:47:310:47:33

How am I going to buy a kimchi refrigerator in Barrow-in-Furness?

0:47:330:47:37

This is our first family meal in South Korea.

0:47:390:47:43

We're trying a fully fermented kimchi with the dishes

0:47:430:47:46

Erin's family always eat on their annual kimchi-making day.

0:47:460:47:50

Ah, here's the boss.

0:47:500:47:52

It looks such vibrant, appetising food, doesn't it?

0:47:520:47:55

Got to try the kimchi. Bon appetit. Yeah, I think we have.

0:47:550:47:58

It's a lot.

0:47:580:48:01

-So is it quite powerful?

-Yes.

0:48:010:48:02

Oh, hey!

0:48:100:48:12

ERIN LAUGHS

0:48:120:48:13

That is a taste sensation.

0:48:130:48:15

That is fantastic, isn't it?

0:48:150:48:17

What's so great is to find something that tastes

0:48:170:48:20

so good that actually does you good.

0:48:200:48:23

Yes, I can see kimchi catching on back home,

0:48:230:48:25

perking up comfort food, like we use piccalilli or horseradish.

0:48:250:48:29

-This is lovely.

-Isn't it good?

0:48:310:48:32

Oh, God, yes.

0:48:320:48:34

It's so fun to cook for people.

0:48:360:48:38

THEY LAUGH

0:48:380:48:40

Absolutely brilliant.

0:48:400:48:41

-Thank you.

-So, so good.

0:48:410:48:44

Over half the visitors to South Korea get no further than Seoul.

0:48:530:48:56

-Nice roads.

-Beautiful, isn't it?

0:48:580:49:01

And we don't want to join that number.

0:49:030:49:06

So we're leaving the capital behind and heading 100 miles East

0:49:060:49:10

to the coastal city of Sokcho.

0:49:100:49:12

Do you know, it's not a bad life - lovely motorbike,

0:49:120:49:16

sun's going down, one of the most beautiful lakes in Korea

0:49:160:49:20

and my belly's full of chillies.

0:49:200:49:22

Doesn't get much better, really.

0:49:220:49:24

There's hardly anybody here.

0:49:250:49:27

You know, we're not far from the border with North Korea here, mate.

0:49:290:49:33

It's the world's most heavily guarded frontier.

0:49:330:49:36

Our route passes just below the 160-mile-long,

0:49:370:49:40

two-mile-wide strip of land running across the Korean peninsula

0:49:400:49:44

which is known as the Demilitarized Zone.

0:49:440:49:46

Oh mate, fantastic.

0:49:500:49:53

Look at that.

0:49:540:49:56

I know. Doesn't it look a very dark, mysterious lake?

0:49:560:49:59

Fancy a pit-stop, mate?

0:50:020:50:04

Why not? South Koreans are mad for exercise.

0:50:040:50:07

You find these little free work-out stations all over South Korea.

0:50:070:50:12

And you know how we just love an opportunity

0:50:120:50:15

to perfect our physiques.

0:50:150:50:17

Fried chicken, go away!

0:50:170:50:19

# I am a star

0:50:200:50:22

# It makes me feel good... #

0:50:220:50:24

My life as a human pendulum. I like this one.

0:50:240:50:27

-Oh, it's belting this.

-It is, innit?

0:50:270:50:29

-Tell you what though...

-What?

-How do you stop?

0:50:290:50:32

I don't know.

0:50:320:50:33

I think I'm going to go 360 here.

0:50:330:50:35

Oh. Oooh.

0:50:380:50:40

Bugger doesn't stop, does it?

0:50:400:50:42

No, it doesn't, that's what I'm saying.

0:50:420:50:44

How do you stop it once you get going?

0:50:440:50:46

Just relax.

0:50:460:50:48

Oh, comes off quick.

0:50:480:50:51

And suitably energized, it's time to get back on our bikes

0:50:530:50:57

and make for our final destination.

0:50:570:50:59

Well, mate, I didn't know what to expect from the Korean seaside

0:51:040:51:07

-and it is a surprise, isn't it?

-Well, yeah.

0:51:070:51:10

Now Sokcho may lie on the shores of the Sea of Japan,

0:51:110:51:14

but if you're longing for white sands and palm trees,

0:51:140:51:17

you won't find them here.

0:51:170:51:19

Koreans love a day at the seaside.

0:51:190:51:21

They get 28 paid days' holiday a year,

0:51:210:51:24

and, you know, there's nothing better,

0:51:240:51:26

glimmer of sunshine, get down to the beach.

0:51:260:51:29

I tell you what, you know what this reminds me of?

0:51:290:51:32

North Shields.

0:51:320:51:34

It's got all the glitz and the colour of seaside,

0:51:420:51:44

but there's no rock.

0:51:440:51:46

-Squid.

-Yeah. Fish.

-Fish.

-Fish.

0:51:460:51:50

It's seafood bonkers here.

0:51:500:51:52

And today, this seaside resort has gone bonkers for one

0:51:530:51:56

scrumptious sea creature in particular.

0:51:560:51:59

Do you know, Dave, I'm sensing a recurring theme

0:51:590:52:01

in this town of Sokcho.

0:52:010:52:03

Yeah, there's certainly a lot of squid.

0:52:030:52:05

Overnight fishermen have been hauling their catch from the deep,

0:52:050:52:08

but for some squid a curious fate awaits them,

0:52:080:52:11

as they are returned back to the sea in celebration of a special event.

0:52:110:52:16

Ah-ha! Now it's not some "let's all save the squid" moment.

0:52:160:52:20

Oh, no. This is an opportunity for holiday-makers to take

0:52:200:52:23

part in Sokcho's famous squid festival.

0:52:230:52:25

And, of course, we're going to join in.

0:52:270:52:29

Luckily we've got Charles, a Sokcho local, to guide us through.

0:52:300:52:35

What do you do at a squid festival, Charles?

0:52:350:52:38

You see, when you join up for the squid festival,

0:52:470:52:50

you're given a plastic bag for your squid, some gloves,

0:52:500:52:53

because apparently the squid bite, your official wristband,

0:52:530:52:56

like Glastonbury but for squid, and your T-shirt.

0:52:560:52:59

The only slight snag is, all the PA is in Korean,

0:52:590:53:05

so we're trying to find out what Korean is for go.

0:53:050:53:10

-Gagi.

-Gagi.

-Let's go!

0:53:100:53:12

The anticipation is overwhelming. As the crowd is silent...

0:53:120:53:18

ANNOUNCEMENT IN KOREAN

0:53:180:53:20

Come on!

0:53:250:53:27

Hey, Dave, be careful. We're not far from where

0:53:400:53:43

they found that giant squid a few years ago in Japan, you know.

0:53:430:53:47

Oh, you mean that 23ft one with an eye the size of a beach ball?

0:53:480:53:52

Yeah, that's the one, that's the one. Better go carefully, yeah.

0:53:530:53:56

There's some kids that have got three or four in each bag.

0:53:560:53:59

I mean, they're really quite good. How many did you catch?

0:53:590:54:02

I'm not sure.

0:54:020:54:03

Wow! Dude.

0:54:050:54:07

One...two... They're good size squid.

0:54:080:54:12

They're fab.

0:54:120:54:14

-That's Charles' squid.

-Oh, that's a good 'un.

-Aye.

0:54:140:54:17

And I've got two little 'uns.

0:54:190:54:22

-But you know what, that's enough.

-I think so.

0:54:220:54:25

-That's enough for a nice little meal.

-It is.

0:54:250:54:28

Most people here line up to have their squid

0:54:280:54:31

prepared at a beach restaurant.

0:54:310:54:33

Some have it steamed but others opt for the squid sashimi option.

0:54:330:54:38

Which means it's minced and eaten raw.

0:54:380:54:41

What are we going to do with them, Charles?

0:54:410:54:43

Er, squid soonday.

0:54:430:54:45

DAVE AND SI: Squid sundae!

0:54:450:54:46

-Right.

-Read about that and it's got nothing to do with ice cream.

0:54:460:54:50

No, it's not an ice cream sundae.

0:54:500:54:52

-It's not, it's a squid sundae. Then let's do that.

-Yeah.

0:54:520:54:55

-It's not a sundae it's a soonday.

-Soonday.

-Totally different word.

0:54:550:54:58

And there's you putting a glace cherry on the top.

0:54:580:55:02

Soonday is a dish dating back to ancient Mongolian times.

0:55:040:55:07

It's made from stuffing animal intestines

0:55:070:55:10

with a range of ingredients.

0:55:100:55:12

Here in Sokcho, they stuff squid instead

0:55:130:55:16

and serve it as a beach snack.

0:55:160:55:18

So you've got the squid tubes. What's in the stuffing?

0:55:180:55:22

WOMAN SPEAKS KOREAN

0:55:220:55:24

Ah, there's sticky rice and vegetables and onion

0:55:240:55:27

-and chopped squid legs.

-Ah, the tentacles.

0:55:270:55:32

-Ah, top tip from the lady.

-Ah, yeah.

0:55:320:55:35

-Have you got that, mate?

-Yeah.

-We need to write that recipe down.

0:55:380:55:41

So you use a sawn-off water bottle as a squid stuffer.

0:55:410:55:46

'And we can't resist making our own squid soonday.'

0:55:460:55:49

So easy with this method.

0:55:500:55:52

Where did you get recipe from?

0:55:540:55:56

THEY SPEAK KOREAN

0:55:560:55:59

Learned from her mum, who comes from North Korea.

0:56:040:56:08

The recipe's originally from North Korea.

0:56:080:56:13

SHE SPEAKS KOREAN

0:56:130:56:16

Fine. Finished.

0:56:170:56:20

'They're put in a steamer for 20 minutes.'

0:56:210:56:24

So when they start to look like cartoon bombs...

0:56:250:56:28

you know they're done.

0:56:280:56:30

Yeah. Beautiful.

0:56:300:56:32

Then the squid sausage is sliced, dipped in egg and fried.

0:56:330:56:37

Well this is like a very well-dressed squid, isn't it?

0:56:390:56:43

It's really nice.

0:57:020:57:03

The texture and the stuffing is very, very much like haggis.

0:57:030:57:08

-It is.

-It is?

0:57:080:57:10

That is good, isn't it?

0:57:100:57:11

I loved that squid festival.

0:57:110:57:14

There were some really nice families there

0:57:140:57:16

having a really proper family day out.

0:57:160:57:19

Very lovely it is too.

0:57:190:57:21

You know, what I've realised

0:57:240:57:26

is that so many of South Korea's favourite dishes

0:57:260:57:29

were born out of necessity, during its poor and troubled past.

0:57:290:57:33

And today, with the country changing so quickly,

0:57:330:57:36

people really value those food traditions.

0:57:360:57:39

You know, I'm going away assured that Korean food, it's original,

0:57:410:57:45

it's exciting and it's absolutely bursting with flavour.

0:57:450:57:49

I firmly believe that Korean food, it deserves to be as popular

0:57:490:57:53

as any other Asian cuisine that we have on our high streets in the UK.

0:57:530:57:58

What is reassuring to see is that Koreans are still eating

0:57:580:58:02

and still cooking those traditional dishes that they've known

0:58:020:58:06

and loved throughout the centuries.

0:58:060:58:09

And actually, with flavours like that, long may it continue.

0:58:090:58:13

I'll second that. There's only one thing left to say.

0:58:130:58:16

BOTH: Kimchi!

0:58:160:58:17

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